DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING GUNS,
RIFLES AND PISTOLS 346
Rifles 346
The Ballard Rifle 346
The Burgess System 346
Burnside’s Rifle 347
The Evans Rifle 348
Hotchkiss Repeater 349
Howard’s “Thunderbolt” 350
The Kennedy Magazine Rifle 350
Martin Repeating Rifle 351
The Maynard Rifle 351
Peabody Martini Rifle 353
The Phœnix 354
The Remington System 355
Remington Magazine Gun (Keene’s Patent) 357
Remington No. 3 (Hepburn’s Patent) 358
Sharp’s Rifle 358
United States Muzzle-Loading Rifle and Musket 360
Springfield Breech-Loading Rifle 361
Whitney Breech-Loading Gun 362
Whitney New System Breech-Loading Gun 364
Winchester Magazine Gun 365
Billings’ Breech-Loading Shot Gun 366
Fox Breech Loading Shot Gun 367
Lefever Hammerless Gun 368
Parker Double-Barreled Breech-Loading Shot Gun 369
Remington Double-Barreled Breech-Loading Shot Gun 369
Roper Four-Shooting Shot Gun and Rifle 370
THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORY OF THE GUN.
_Discovery of Gunpowder._—No authentic records have been left to show
when or by whom was discovered the wonderful properties of the chemical
compound now known as gunpowder; nor have we any information concerning
the uses to which it was originally applied. There is little probability
that it was at once employed as an agent in fire-arms; indeed, we have
pretty strong evidence to show that it was not, for Roger Bacon refers to
it in his famous treatise, _De Nullitate Magiæ_, published A. D., 1216,
while fire-arms are mentioned by no writer as having been known earlier
than about 1338.
_The First Fire-Arms._—The first fire-arms, or guns, as we now call them,
are said to have been rude cannon, formed by banding together flat iron
bars, something on the plan of our wooden casks or barrels of to-day.
These guns were fired with a “slow match,” the gunners retiring to a safe
distance while the match was burning to the priming. Their earliest use
was as engines of war. The writers of ancient history tell us that they
were so employed by the Moors at the noted siege of Algesiras, Spain, in
1341, and at the battle of Calais, in 1346. At the latter battle, Edward
III is credited with having had four pieces, which made him victorious.
_Earliest Hand-Guns._—It is claimed by Spanish historians that to Spain
belongs the honor of having been the first power to furnish her soldiers
with fire-arms so small that they could be transported by a single
person. They were unwieldy affairs at the beginning, however; really
small cannon lashed upon wooden scantlings. The soldier could not fire
his piece off-hand, but was forced to carry a “rest” with him wherever
he went. Being ready to discharge his arm he balanced it upon the rest,
steadied it by holding the scantling under his arm, and then “touched
it off” with a live coal of fire, while he sighted along the barrel to
take aim at his object. What happened immediately after the coal came in
contact with the powder the historian saith not, but a modern writer,
who has been examining one of these old guns in a museum, jumps to the
conclusion that the soldier, with the scantling under his arm, must
have been launched suddenly into an impressive dream of first-class
earthquakes, or something else “like unto the combined kicking of about
fifty mules.”
_Prejudice Against Fire-Arms._—For about two centuries after the
invention of hand fire-arms they were so inefficient that the cross-bow,
then in general use, was able to quite successfully hold its own against
them. It was not until 1596 that Queen Elizabeth, by a proclamation,
directed that cross and other bows used in the army should be discarded
entirely in favor of muskets. And thereat there arose much murmuring
of dissatisfaction throughout the English Empire, according to Michael
Montaigne, a most prominent man of his time, who narrates the fact, and
adds: “Except the noise in our ears, to which we will be henceforth
accustomed, I think the fire-arm is one of very little effect, and I hope
that we shall one day give up its use.” Could he return to earth at this
age, and see the wonderful fire arms that have developed from the humble
beginning of which he was then treating, he would speedily lose his hope
to the effect that one day its use would be entirely given up.
_The First Rifle._—The first rifle is said to have been made about the
close of the fifteenth century, by one Gaspard Zollner, of Vienna. It was
a simple barrel with straight grooves; the only object of the grooves
being to prevent its becoming so “dirty” from continued use, as did the
smooth-bore. Spiral grooving does not seem to have been thought of until
many years later.
_The Arquebus._—The earliest noted improvement in the hand-gun, making
it lighter and giving it a longer barrel, was called the arquebus; but
even this was so heavy that a “rest” was necessary while discharging it.
This rest was a single staff armed with a steel point which went into the
ground like the Jacob-staff of a surveyor, but which fitted it for use
as a pike when not employed in connection with the gun. It was called the
_schweine feder_, which rendered into English means the “hog’s bristle.”
The arquebus was a regular “match-gun;” that is, it had a “pan” or
receptacle at the side of the breech for the priming powder, which
communicated with the interior of the barrel by a small perforation
called the “touch-hole.” The priming was lighted by a match, which
consisted of a coil of small rope saturated with some kind of chemical,
which caused it to burn readily and hold fire for a long time. The
soldier using the arquebus carried the match in his hand and kept it
burning during an action. The manner of setting off the piece was about
the same as with the live coal—he secured his sight and then touched the
priming with his lighted match.
_The Match Lock._—Later, the serpent-match was invented and looked upon
as a startling improvement. It was a simple S-shaped piece of iron or
wire hinged to the side of the gun just back of the priming pan. The
upper end was provided with a beak which gripped the lighted fuse, while
the lower end played the part of a modern trigger. With this contrivance
the gunner had only to take sight and then pull with his finger upon
the lower end of the S until the lighted fuse was brought down into the
priming. After many years of use an improvement was made upon the S,
consisting of a small spring which threw it back into an erect position
so soon as the pressure upon the lower end was discontinued.
The powder employed with the old arquebus was of two grades as to size of
grain; a coarse grade for the charge, and a fine grade for the priming.
Its chemical composition does not seem to have differed materially from
that of our modern gunpowder.
The serpent match, so called because the upper end holding the fuse was
often shaped to represent the head of a serpent, was the first actual
step taken towards a gun-lock. It was thought to be perfection itself,
especially after the returning spring had been added, and so strong a
hold did it take upon all nations that only a few years has elapsed since
it was wholly abandoned in some of the most benighted regions, as in
China, for instance, where it is known to have been used in the army at a
date as late as 1860.
_Musket-Petronel._—Next in order to the arquebus came the musket, a
Spanish invention. It was heavier than its predecessor, and carried a
charge twice as large. Almost simultaneously with this appeared the first
cavalry fire-arm, which was called the petronel. It was shorter than the
musket and larger in bore; the horseman rested its breech against his
breast and communicated the fire by means of the serpent match.
_The Wheel-Lock._—In 1517 the Germans astonished the world by inventing
and bringing into use the “wheel-lock,” which was a regular gun-lock,
entirely doing away with the lighted match. It consisted of a small disk
of steel fluted on the edges, set in close contact with the priming pan,
and made to revolve with great rapidity by means of a spiral spring
arranged somewhat on the plan of the spring of a spring-clock. In contact
with its fluted edge, and held there by a spring, was arranged a sharp
flint; hence when the steel disk was set in motion a train of sparks
was thrown off as it revolved over the edge of flint. These sparks fell
into the priming pan and ignited the powder, discharging the piece. The
spring was wound up like winding a clock or watch, and a slight pressure
upon a trigger under the breech set the wheel in motion. The pressure was
continued until the gun was discharged, when it was discontinued, the
result of which was an immediate stopping of the wheel. A single winding
would usually discharge the gun about half a dozen times.
_The Pistol._—The wheel-lock went into quite general use, finally leading
to the invention of the pistol, about 1544. The first pistols were single
barrel, and very short. The stock was heavy, and the breech or handle,
instead of leaving the barrel with a curve, as in later days, dropped at
right angles to the iron. It was put into use as a cavalry arm, first by
the Germans and afterwards by the people of many other nations. In 1607
the German horse soldiers were all regularly armed with double-barrel
wheel-lock pistols.
_The Snaphaunce._—After the date just mentioned modifications and
improvements in fire-arms were rapid and constant. The wheel-lock was
finally followed by the “snaphaunce,” which was a straight piece of
furrowed steel brought to bear upon the flint instead of the disk. It
was more simple in its construction than the wheel-lock, and hence less
liable to get out of order. Of course it worked in obedience to the
action of a spring, but the spring was not a spiral—it was more on the
plan of the mainspring in modern gun-locks.
_The Flint-Lock._—About 1630 Spain again popped to the surface; this
time with the regular flint-lock, embracing precisely the same mechanism
as the flint-lock used in our Revolutionary war, and familiar to very
many of the older people of the present day. Its advantages over the
wheel-lock and the snaphaunce were so marked that France at once adopted
it for use in her armies, but England held back, contending that the
wheel-lock was the better invention, till 1690, when she gave up the
contest, and adopted the flint-lock.
_Important Improvements._—Rapidly following the invention of the
flint-lock came important improvements in the musket. The stock was
lightened and put into better shape, and sights were invented and placed
upon the barrels. Up to this time the soldier had been forced to carry
his ammunition in bulk, but now cartridges were brought into use, carried
in convenient and neatly made cartridge-boxes. Steel bayonets to set
over the muzzle of the gun also appeared, the first in 1693. Prior to
this time a rude kind of bayonet had been more or less in use—it was a
sort of dagger set into a wooden handle, the latter to be thrust into
the muzzle of the gun in case of a hand-to-hand charge, where loading
and firing could not be attended to. Iron ramrods took the place of the
inconvenient and unsafe wooden ones formerly in use, which was regarded
as a long stride in the efficiency of the musket. With the old wooden
ramrods, clumsy and easily broken, the loading of a musket was a slow and
laborious task, but the iron rod secured comparative ease and rapidity.
_Advance of the Rifle._—With the general improvement of fire-arms the
rifle had worked gradually into favor and use. Its main drawback, as an
army gun, laid in the difficulty experienced in loading it. But it was
admirably adapted to the wants of the people settling the wilds of the
American continent, hence they adopted it almost to the entire exclusion
of any other kind of fire-arm. In the armies its use was limited to
a few corps of sharp-shooters, usually on the frontiers where it was
advantageous to harass the enemy by picking off his men at long range.
England seems to have been rather prejudiced against the rifle until
after our war with her for Independence. In that war she appears to
have had so striking a demonstration of its efficiency that she soon
after adopted it as a military arm; and other nations, having faith in
her superior judgment, finally followed her example, bringing the rifle
rapidly upward in rank as an effectual implement of war.
_The Percussion Lock._—In 1807 a Scotch clergyman by the name of
Alexander Forsyth, invented a new method of igniting the charge in
fire-arms, which, after various changes and improvements, settled down
to what is now known as the percussion cap. The percussion lock was a
simultaneous invention, of course; though it did not differ materially,
in point of construction, from the old flint-lock already in use. The
main difference consisted in the substitution of a cylinder and tube for
the priming pan and frizzen, and a hammer for the cock.
A strong current of prejudice set at once against the percussion lock,
though nobody could tell why. All declared it would not do, but none
attempted to give a reason for the faith that was in them. As a result
the new invention was pretty effectually held in the background until
1834, when its opponents accepted a challenge for a public test of its
merits against those of the flint-lock. The test extended to 6,000
rounds. In the course of these the percussion lock (afterwards more
commonly known as the cap-lock), gave but six miss-fires, while the
flint-lock scored nine hundred and twenty-two misses.
This astounding defeat at once sealed the fate of the flint-lock; still
it was a long time before the prejudice existing against the other could
be entirely removed. Even as far down as the date of our Mexican war,
General Scott flatly objected to its use in his army, and had his men
armed with the flint-lock, although there were then in our arsenals
percussion-lock muskets enough to have armed all his forces more than
twice over.
But facts are such stubborn things that even the strongest prejudice must
give way to them sooner or later. So it proved in this instance; one by
one the manufacturers of flint-lock fire-arms adopted the improvements
resulting from the discoveries of the Scotch clergyman, until finally no
more flint-locks were made, and the percussion lock was in undisputed
possession of the field.
_The Breech-Loader._—When the percussion-lock had been fully adopted
by the public, and all the “latest improvements” had been added to
it, people thought that the fire-arm had attained to such a degree of
perfection as to preclude any further change in the future; but how
mistaken! The fate of the percussion-lock is now as much sealed as was
that of the flint-lock at the test-trial of 1834. It is going the way
of all its predecessors, and its entire extinction is only a matter of
time. The breech-loader, with charge and ignition combined in the same
cartridge, is rapidly taking its place, and, until some new and wonderful
discovery comes to the surface, must, undoubtedly, stand paramount as the
gun of the future.
While springing into general favor at one leap, as it were, the
breech-loader is no new and sudden appearance. In truth it is of great
antiquity. In the Tower of London, the Woolwich Museum, and in the
Museum of Paris, may be seen hundreds of breech-loaders that were made
centuries ago. Of course they were not made to use the percussion
cartridge peculiar to many such guns of modern make, nevertheless they
were veritable breech-loaders, and the real suggestors, no doubt, of the
modern arm of that character.
In the Museum of Artillery, at Woolwich, there is a breech-loading
pierrier, or paterera, of the time of Edward IV. (1471). It consists of
a directing barrel, terminating in a square bar or frame of iron, and a
separate loading chamber, with handle, which was fastened in its place
for firing by an iron wedge. There are also found in the museums many
breech-loading pistols, that were evidently in use about cotemporaneous
with this gun.
The records kept at St. Etienne, France, show that the French monarch,
Henry II, shot with a breech-loading gun in 1540. And the English records
show that the Marquis of Worcester took out a patent in that country for
a breech action on the “cut-screw” principle in 1661. A portion of the
specification reads as follows:
“An invencione to make certain guns or pistols which in the tenth part
of one minute of an hour may be re-charged; the fourth part of one turne
of the barrell, which remains still fixt, fastening it as foreceably and
effectually as a dozen shrids of any screw, which, in the ordinary and
usual way require as many turnes.”
There are several specimens of the breech-loader made on this plan,
now in the Woolwich Museum. There are also other specimens, on a plan
entirely different, made at a date but a little more recent, for it seems
that then, as in modern days, one invention was very apt to suggest
another. Three years after the Marquis of Worcester had taken out his
patent, one Abraham Hill, of London, patented some six different systems
of breech-loaders. In his specification concerning one of them he says:
“It is a new way of making a gun or a pistoll, the breech whereof rises
on a hindge, by a contrivance of a motion under it, by which it is also
let down and bolted fast by one of the same motion.”
This, as will be readily seen, was rubbing pretty close upon the
breech-loader of the present day.
Since the dates of the patents just referred to, the breech-loading
fire-arm is known to have been in uninterrupted existence; but so strong
was the current turned against it by popular prejudice, that it was
little known to the people in general. A want of scientific training
among the masses was the cause which held it back; they were unable
to clearly understand all the whys and wherefores connected with its
workings, and, therefore, rejected it on the plea that it was dangerous,
without really knowing whether it was or not.
Great improvements in the breech-loader now succeeded each other with
astonishing rapidity up to the time when M. Lefaucheux, of France,
capped the climax by inventing the cartridge containing within itself
the cap, or means of igniting the charge. This made it available as a
sporting gun, and hence promptly set it forward into public attention;
and finally, after a score or so of improvements, usually at the hands of
the English, into public favor. It is, at last, the gun of the period,
and the old muzzle-loader, with all its good qualities (and they were
certainly many), is rapidly surrendering the field to the more successful
candidate, and retiring in the footsteps of its honored predecessors, the
wheel-lock and the flint-lock.
CHAPTER II.
HOW GUNS ARE MADE.
_Gunsmith—Gunmaker._—The modern gunsmith is not necessarily a gunmaker,
but rather a repairer of guns that have happened to get out of order.
In earlier days the devotees to his calling may, in their little shops,
have made guns entire, but now, if the gunsmith _makes_ them at all,
that making consists in merely finishing up the parts and putting them
together—generally making the stock entire. All gun parts can now be
bought as “gunsmith’s materials,” either finished or in the rough, as may
be desired. They are made by a variety of workmen, the business of each
man being to make a single part, and nothing more. There is at present
too much in a good gun to admit of all being made advantageously by one
man; he would need to be a kind of “Jack-of-all-trades,” and, like the
traditional Jack, it is but reasonable to suppose that he would be really
first-class at none.
In some of the large establishments where guns are made all these
different workmen are employed, hence such an establishment is really a
collection of workers in many trades. The gunsmith who has his shop for
repairing purposes, or for putting together materials under the name of
gunmaking, will not be specially concerned with reference to any of
these trades; still it is but reasonable to suppose that he would like
to know something of how the implements, or parts of implements, that he
will be constantly handling, were put up; and, besides, there will exist
something akin to a necessity for his possession of such knowledge, owing
to the fact that his customers will often call upon him to answer many
a question as to how this or that gun was made, etc. With this view of
the case, it is really necessary to give a brief outline of gunmaking,
following the work from the rough material to the final finish.
_Gun-Barrels—Best Materials for._—The barrels of the finest and best
guns, either Damascus, or other steel, or iron, are formed, as made in
Europe and England, of scraps of iron suited to the purpose, and selected
with great skill and the greatest possible care. These scraps, which
are usually bought up about the country, are placed in what is called
a “shaking tub”—a vessel which is violently shaken and rocked about by
machinery or otherwise (depending upon the particular locality) for the
purpose of scouring and brightening the scraps. This done, they are
carefully picked over by adepts, who cull out the unsuitable pieces. So
rigid is the culling that it often happens that out of a ton of scoured
scraps not more than one hundred pounds weight of them are chosen as
suitable for going into the best barrels.
Among the scraps usually thought to be best are old chains that have been
used for many years, the wear and rust of time having left only the best
elements of the iron. The Damascus steel, which has attained to so high
a reputation, got it by being manufactured out of old coach springs. Of
course it is not all made of coach springs now, but it was in years ago;
agents then traveled all over the country hunting and buying them up,
paying a much higher price for an old broken spring than a new one would
cost its owner.
_On Making Gun-Barrels._—The selected scraps to be worked into gun-barrel
material are cut into small pieces and thrown into a furnace, where
they are exposed to intense heat until fused, after which they are
brought forth an adhering mass and placed under a hammer, which drives
them together and forges them into bars. The bars are next rolled into
thin plates, and then cut into strips twelve inches long and six inches
wide. The _very best_ guns are made of a combination of iron and steel.
Both materials having been rolled and cut into sheets of exactly the
same size, these sheets (one-fourth of an inch thick) are piled upon
each other alternately to the number of thirty, and subjected to a
welding heat; they are then driven together under a five-ton hammer
into a consolidated slab. The slabs so formed are next worked down into
one-fourth inch square rods. The more the material is hammered and worked
the better it is. The rods are next twisted until they present the
appearance of a strand of rope, some rods being twisted to the right and
others to the left. Two rods, with opposite twist, are heated to the
welding degree, placed upon each other, and rolled together; they are now
in a narrow slab, presenting that fine curl of “grain” peculiar to the
Damascus, or that beautiful wavy figure peculiar to the laminated steel,
as the case may be. The next operation is to coil one of these slabs
around a mandrel in a spiral form, and weld it securely under the blows
of hand-hammers. It is now a gun-barrel in the rough.
_Finishing and Proving._—The rough barrel goes from the welder to the
borer, where it is put through the process of “rough boring.” From the
“rough borer” it goes into the hands of the “fine borer,” who bores it
out smoothly and to near the size it is to be when finished. Another
operator then takes it in charge and dresses it to smoothness externally,
then the “tester” takes it and dips it into strong acid, which soon shows
any imperfection in either twist or welding that might exist. If not
perfect, it is sent back to be worked over; if all right, it passes to
the next department, where it is straightened inside. This part of the
work is governed entirely by the eye, and hence demands the services of a
workman of great skill, and experience.
Having been “passed on” by the “straightener,” the barrel goes to
the “turner,” who turns it in a lathe until the outside is true and
correspondingly straight with the interior, and is of exactly the
required weight. If the arm is to be a double-barrel shot gun, the barrel
next goes into the hands of a workman who joins it to another barrel
with the utmost nicety; to attain which, levels and other suitable
instruments are brought into requisition. Like the man who straightens
the bore, the man who joins the barrels must be a workman of great skill.
The next operation is to braze on the “lumps;” then, next in order, the
ribs are put on. Now comes the “proving.” The rear ends having been
securely plugged, they go to the proof department, where is placed into
each barrel fully four ordinary charges of gunpowder; then, atop of this,
a wad of strong brown paper, rammed securely down, then a leaden bullet
large enough to exactly fit the bore, and then another wad of brown
paper. The charge is fired, and if the barrels stand the ordeal unfazed,
they are ready to be fitted to the action; otherwise, they go back to be
worked over. In some houses the “proving” is done before the barrels are
joined together.
_Action, Stock and Final Finish._—The “action man” now takes the perfect
barrels in hand and performs his part of the work. In the meantime the
stock-maker has not been idle. A stock is already in waiting, and next
must come a series of fittings of the most exquisite nicety, until the
gun is actually a gun and ready for its final test. This is applied by
the “targeteer,” who passes upon it according to its merits. If his
report comes in favorable, the gun goes to the proper department for
final finish. The stock is dressed up, finished in oil or varnish and
chequered, and its mountings put on. Every piece of metal is polished and
burnished to the highest possible degree, and all the needed engraving
is done. Next comes the case-hardening, coloring, and the browning or
bronzing; and this having been well and satisfactorily performed, the gun
is ready for market.
_On Making the Rifle._—The processes employed in making the modern rifle
do not differ materially from those named in the foregoing. Of course
there are some processes employed on the shot gun that are not called for
in the manufacture of the rifle, and some on the rifle not needed on the
shot gun. The general principle is the same, however, and therefore it
is not necessary to consume time in further description. The great care
mentioned is only done to make a good gun; only the cheap and inferior
guns are pitched together in an easier and more irregular way. But the
gunsmith would not thank any one for a treatise on cheap and bad guns.
They are legion, more’s the pity, and his extensive dealings with them
will afford annoyance sufficient to do away with any desire on his part
to fight his battles over in a book.
_Plain Steel-Barrel Guns._—Of course there are guns with “plain steel
barrels,” as they are called, which pass muster as fair; and the barrels
of these are made by a process differing materially from that described
in the foregoing; all else connected with the making is the same. These
plain steel barrels are made of round bars of steel two inches in
diameter. The bars are first cut into lengths of nine inches each; a hole
or bore three-fourths of an inch in diameter is drilled through the
centre. They are now called moulds, and the next step is to pass them
through rolls, which reduce them to the required size for barrels and
stretch them out to the required length, holding them, at the same time,
in the proper shape, externally. Having been thus rolled, they are bored
out internally, turned and ground externally, until they have attained to
the shape and proportions of correctly-formed barrels. After this comes
the fitting up and “proving,” as in the case of the finer guns.
CHAPTER III.
GUNS NOW IN USE.
_Guns Defined._—Excepting the pistol, and the mortar, perhaps, all
fire-arms now in use are classed under the name of guns. The cannon or
artillery ordnance in all its sizes and forms, is simply a large gun. It
is variously divided off, according to character, into heavy siege-guns,
field-pieces, rifled-cannon and smooth-bores. These again are sub-divided
into a large number of different kinds, as the Armstrong, the Dahlgren,
the Columbiad, the Paixhan, the Parrot, the Whitworth, etc. But with guns
of this class the practical gunsmith will have nothing to do, and hence
it is but reasonable to suppose that he feels no particular concern about
them. It is with the small-arms that his concern will mainly lie, and
therefore from this page to the conclusion of this work the gun mentioned
will be some instrument classing with the small fire-arms, and liable to
be brought to a gunsmith’s shop for repairs.
The small arms, or hand guns, are muskets, rifles, carbines,
fowling-pieces and pistols. These may be properly divided into three
classes: the flint-lock, the percussion-lock and the cartridge
breech-loader.
_The Old Flint-Lock Guns._—Of the old flint-locks, only a few are now
in existence within the United States. Here and there one has been kept
as a kind of heirloom by some family, and occasionally these drop in
upon the gunsmith for repairs, but not often. They are more common along
the Mexican border in Texas, perhaps, than in any other portion of the
country.
A minute description of the old flint-lock-gun need not be given, as,
in general characteristics it does not differ materially from all other
muzzle-loaders. The barrel is usually longer than that of the more modern
gun; and, in the case of the rifle, the stock (all wood) extends nearly
to the muzzle. It is what, in later days, when half-stocks had been
invented, was called a full-stock. As already intimated the interior
mechanism of the lock differs very little from that of the more modern
cap or percussion-lock. On the outside, in place of the cap-hammer is a
cock arranged with two lips for holding a flint. The lips are brought
together firmly upon the flint by means of a screw which passes down
immediately back of it. In the top of the lock-plate, directly in front
of the cock, is set the priming-pan; a small iron receptacle made to
contain, say the fourth of a teaspoonful of gunpowder. When the lock is
in position the butt or open end of the pan comes squarely up against the
barrel of the gun where a small hole called the “touch-hole” communicates
with the interior, and with the charge, when the gun is loaded. Over
the priming-pan a cover fits nicely, lying horizontally when the pan is
closed, and turning up at right angles on the edge nearest the cock, and
standing erect, a small plate of steel, immediately in front of the
flint. This cover, with its vertical plate is called the frizzen. It
works on a hinge, and is held into whatever position set, by means of a
small spring called the heel spring. When the cock is set in motion by
drawing upon the trigger and releasing the check to the mainspring, the
flint comes in contact with the steel plate of the frizzen, throwing
it back upon its hinge and scraping down its face directly towards the
priming-pan. As the frizzen flies back the pan is uncovered, of course,
enabling the flint to end its journey directly in the priming powder of
the pan. In its scrape over the steel plate of the frizzen it causes many
brilliant sparks of fire, which descending with it into the priming sets
off the charge.
_The Percussion-Lock Gun._—As has already been stated, the immediate
successor of the old flint-lock was the percussion or cap-lock. While now
far beyond its zenith, it is still the prevailing gun in many portions of
the country; especially in out-of-the-way districts South and West. In
the oldest make of these guns a small plug of iron is screwed into the
barrel at the point where the touch-hole of the flint-lock was located.
It is called the cylinder. The end passing into the barrel is drilled to
communicate with the powder-bed of the gun, and with a cap-tube, which is
screwed into the cylinder, to stand erect near the side of the barrel. In
more modern guns the cylinder has been discarded, the tube going directly
into the barrel and communicating with the powder-bed.
The oldest percussion-lock rifles are set in whole-stock, on the plan of
the flint-lock gun; and on account of the fact that all the old-fashioned
folks are not yet dead, some factories put up new guns after the same
model, calling them Kentucky rifles. The stock reaches the full length
of the barrel, which is heavy and about four feet long. It is octagon in
shape. But in most of the more modern rifles the barrel is shorter, say
from 32 to 36 inches in length, and comparatively light; and the stock
extends only half the length of the barrel, joining to a rib affixed to
the barrel for the purpose of holding the ramrod-thimbles.
The “patent-breech” may be mentioned as another peculiarity of the
percussion-lock gun, since it was not known in the days ere the
flint-lock had lost its prestige. In those early days the breech end
of the barrel was closed by a plug of iron, screwed in and called the
breech-pin. From its upper side there extended backward along the stock
a thin plate or strap, through which screws passed at right angles to
hold the barrel in place. This method of securing the breech-end of the
barrel into the stock has been done away with by the patent breech, which
secures it by means of a short hook on the end of the breech-pin; or,
rather, on the end of the short plug screwed into the barrel in place of
the old breech-pin. It is much more convenient than the old fashioned
arrangement, as it enables the barrel to be taken from the stock in a
moment, doing away with the labor of drawing the breech-pin screws.
_On the Muzzle-Loaders._—The percussion-lock muzzle-loaders all work upon
about the same principle. The charge must go in at the muzzle and be put
down to the breech. In the case of army guns it is usually contained
in a paper cartridge. The soldier bites off the end of the cartridge
in which the powder is inclosed, to admit of a communication with the
cap, and then forces it down with the ramrod. But in the case of rifles
and fowling pieces, or shotguns, as the latter are most commonly called
in this country, cartridges are seldom employed. In loading a rifle
the powder is first measured in a “charger,” and then poured down the
barrel; next comes the patch, which is usually a piece of new and strong
cotton cloth, most commonly the kind known as white drilling. This,
having been tallowed upon one side, the tallowed side is spread over the
muzzle of the gun, and the bullet is pressed upon it into the muzzle,
the side from which the “neck,” formed in moulding, has been cut, must
be directly downward. Generally with the handle of a knife the bullet
is pressed into the bore as far as it can be sent by such means; then
the patch is gathered around it and cut smoothly off exactly flush with
the muzzle end of the barrel. The next operation is to draw the ramrod,
throw the gun under the left arm, with its breech resting upon the ground
and its muzzle in front of the breast, and then having set the butt end
of the ramrod upon the bullet and grasped it in both hands, the bullet
is gradually, and by main strength, forced downward into position. To
make sure that it is entirely down the gun is taken from under the arm,
by some, and set with the breech resting upon the ground more in front,
after which the ramrod is raised up a foot or so and pitched down the
bore like throwing a pike. If it does not bound back the bullet is not
down solid upon the powder, and the pitching is repeated until it does
bound. The upward bound of a few inches is sufficient to settle it that
the bullet is down.
In the early times the bullet of the rifle was patched with dressed
deer-skin exclusively.
Charging the shot-gun muzzle-loader is an operation somewhat different.
First comes the powder poured down the bore from a charger, as in the
case of the rifle. Next comes a wad, usually of paper, which must fit
tightly, and be rammed down solid upon the powder. Following this comes
the shot, measured in the same charger, or in one of the same capacity.
The measure of powder and the measure of shot usually made about the
same. Over the shot is rammed a loose wad—it needs only to be tight
enough to prevent the shot from rolling out when the muzzle of the gun
happens to come lower than the breech. Disk-like wads of pasteboard or
felt cloth are the latest invention.
_The Breech Loaders._—The breech-loading gun is now before the public
in considerable variety; and being really the gun of the day, and,
consequently, engaging the best thought of inventors, it is constantly
appearing in new forms. This being the case, about all that could be
expected in this work, is a mere mention of the general principles upon
which it works.
Taking a double-barrel shot-gun for illustrating these general
principles, it may be stated that the barrels are movable at the breech
or rear end, and butt upon the face of the standing breech peculiar
to the latest and best muzzle-loaders. The face of these barrels fits
smoothly against that of the standing breech. There is nothing in the
way of a breech-pin to resist the backward force of the ignited powder,
or hold the barrels in place. The hooks mentioned as peculiar to the
patent breech muzzle-loader are not there—nothing at all like them. But
the barrels, when put into place for shooting are held there by means of
a solid piece of iron attached to them underneath, called the “lump.”
To effect this, it descends into an iron bed on the stock called the
“action,” its projections fitting into suitable recesses in the action
and being held there by the agency of keys, wedges, bolts or grips.
There are many devices for gripping, bolting or wedging up the gun, as it
is called; and also many for attaching the barrels to the stock. In all
cases the barrels play upon a hinge pin, which admits of their dropping
down at the muzzle and rising at the breech, the latter to reject the
empty cartridge and receive the loaded one. At every discharge the gun is
opened and closed by throwing up the barrels for the purpose just named,
and then letting them down again into position for shooting. The means by
which this opening and closing is effected vary greatly in the guns of
different makers.
_Variety of Breech-Loaders._—This gives the general idea of about all
there is of it. There are a few breech-loaders made in both this country
and in Europe whose barrels are fixed, the cartridge being inserted
through some other device; and there are still a few others whose barrels
slide forward or sideways in the stock to receive the load—do not tilt on
a hinge-pin—but neither of these kinds are so common as the kinds just
referred to.
CHAPTER IV.
PISTOLS NOW IN USE.
_Old-Style Pistols._—Pistols, the smallest of fire-arms, were originally
plain implements of a single barrel; but, as improvements advanced,
a second barrel was added to many of them, presenting what is known
as the double-barreled pistol. Some of these old-fashioned single and
double-barreled pistols will still occasionally find their way into
the shop of the gunsmith, though their numbers, as now in use, are
comparatively small, especially the muzzle-loaders. In rare instances a
flint-lock “horse pistol” or holster may put in an appearance, though
none such are now on sale at any house dealing in fire-arms. Some few
houses are still offering the old cap-lock army holster, always a
second-hand article that once belonged to the Government, and was bought
up by dealers when the Government had discarded it for the adoption of
more modern and better arms. A description of this kind of weapon is
unnecessary as it is simply a small musket with side-lock, and all on
the usual plan, differing only in being short and having a turned-down
handle, to be held in one hand, instead of the usual breech. The single
or double-barrel muzzle-loaders, outside the line of army holsters, will
usually have the central lock, which is next to no lock at all; simply a
mainspring working in the handle and throwing the cap-hammer, which is
fitted in the middle of the piece immediately behind the breech-end of
the barrel. Some very cheap pistols for boys are still made on this plan.
_The Derringer._—The old Derringer, though not now much manufactured in
this country, is still among the people in considerable numbers. It is a
muzzle-loader, with side-lock and full-stock in wood; and, by the way, it
is a very good pistol of its kind.
_The Pepper Box._—There are quite a number of little breech-loading
cartridge-pistols, with single barrels, now in use, but the pistol of the
day is a repeater, of which there are kinds in great variety. One of the
oldest and now rarest of these is the “pepper-box,” so called. It has a
single barrel containing from five to seven bores, which are loaded from
the muzzle. A tube for percussion caps communicates with each bore at
the breech, and upon these a hammer strikes, having an automatic action,
rising up and striking in response to pressure upon a trigger underneath,
which pressure also revolves the barrel, bringing the caps into proper
position for receiving the blow. It was never a popular pistol, people
objecting to a kind of way it had of sometimes letting off its seven
charges simultaneously, when the person operating it had intended to fire
but one.
_Old Colt’s Revolver._—Next among the repeaters, in point of scarcity, is
the Colt’s revolver of the earliest patent. It has a stationary single
barrel and revolving cylinder, the latter containing from five to seven
chambers for receiving the charges. It is not a muzzle-loader, though
the charges must be put into the chambers at the breech, somewhat on
the muzzle-loading plan. It is fired by means of percussion caps. The
cylinder revolves, throwing the chamber to be discharged into proper
position at the breech of the barrel when the cap-hammer is drawn back.
Though inconvenient, compared to the cartridge pistol of more modern
make, the old Colt’s revolver is yet an excellent arm. There are houses
still making revolvers on the same plan.
_Sharp’s Four Shooter._—Next to the old Colt’s revolver may be placed
the Sharp’s four shooter. It is a neat and strong-shooting, little
breech-loading pistol, using a No. 22 cartridge. The barrel has four
bores but does not revolve; but the hammer has a revolving point, for
striking the cartridge, which moves into proper position for a new
discharge every time it is drawn back to full cock. The barrel slides
forward upon the stock for receiving new cartridges.
_The Breech-loading Cartridge Revolvers._—Next comes the regular
breech-loading cartridge revolver, which is the pistol now most common
and most popular. To attempt a detailed description of every style of
this weapon would be to swell our book to unwieldy proportions, and even
were the multitudinous styles at present before the public described,
it would be impossible to keep pace with the number which would be
constantly introduced. But, even were it possible to do so, no good
purpose would be subserved. Various as the styles appear, they all
embrace devices and combinations which are substantially covered by our
several chapters, and the intelligent workman will not require minute
descriptions to recognize or understand the individual weapon when well
grounded in a knowledge of the class of fire-arms to which it belongs. It
is our purpose to give such descriptions, directions and illustrations
as shall make everything sufficiently clear and explicit to enable the
reader, with careful attention thereto, to handle successfully and
satisfactorily any job likely to come to his hands.
CHAPTER V.
ON GENERAL GUNSMITHING.
_The Gunsmith and his Trade._—Few trades present so little regular
routine as does that of the gunsmith. In most trades it is the same
thing over and over again; but, with the exception of taking the
gun to pieces and putting it together; and, perhaps, of tempering,
case-hardening and the like, the gunsmith may work regularly for a long
time without being called upon to do precisely the same thing twice.
As a consequence, the gunsmith must be merely an ingenious mechanic or
worker in metals, capable of thinking deeply and searching out causes and
requirements—there is little need of his being anything more. The gun, in
all its forms, is only a machine, and a simple one at that—so simple as
to be easily understood by any one capacitated for making an intelligent
study of machinery.
_Fitting up a Shop._—The specialties to claim the attention of the
gunsmith in fitting up his shop if his means are limited may be few. It
will be about like fitting up the shop of any general worker in metals.
He will need a forge, an anvil and a vise; in a word he will need a light
but complete set of blacksmith’s tools, to begin with. This outfit will
be his foundation, so to speak; and he can add to it such smaller tools
as judgment and experience may suggest as wanted; such, for instance,
as a hand-vise or two, cutting-pliers, bending-pliers, holding-pliers,
small files of various shapes, small drills, a screw-plate or two, a few
gravers, and so on. He might have many special tools, such as could not
be bought at the ordinary hardware store, or at any house dealing in
outfits for the general worker in metals, but for ordinary repairing, he
will not have much need of them. Among the special tools that he will be
compelled to have will be a rifle-guide, a few sets of rifle-saws and a
few mould-cherries. These with proper instructions he can make himself
if he finds he cannot buy them cheaper than he can make them. There are
a few specialties in the way of tools or machines for gunsmiths that are
offered to the trade by houses dealing in gunsmith’s materials, and some
of them may be found very useful as labor-savers, but the gunsmith _can_
get along without them if he does not wish to buy. Prominent among these
is a mainspring-vise or clamp, which has several advantages over the
common hand-vise sometimes employed for clamping the mainspring. It would
be well to look after these things, and to adopt them in every case where
it appeared beyond question that they could be made to pay. There is no
occasion to speak against any of the specialties that may be presented to
the attention of the trade—of their merits the party most concerned must
be his own judge.
CHAPTER VI.
TAKING APART, CLEANING AND PUTTING GUNS TOGETHER.
_To Take the Gun Apart._—With the muzzle-loading guns now in common use
this is an operation so simple as to be scarcely worthy a mention. If the
gun is an old-fashioned breech-pinned muzzle-loader, the first thing is
to push out the small wire pins or bolts which pass through the stock,
under the barrel, and through the barrel-loops. The next thing is to draw
the breechpin screw; this lets the barrel out of the stock. If it is
desirable to unbreech the gun, it is done by clamping the breechpin in a
vise, and then turning the barrel by hand until it is screwed off the pin.
The patent-breech muzzle-loader comes apart the same way in every
particular, with the exception that there is no breechpin screw to draw;
the barrel can be easily lifted from the stock by simply raising the
muzzle and unhooking the patent breech, so soon as the pins or bolts
before mentioned as holding it down have been removed. The unbreeching is
done at the vise much the same as in the other case.
To take apart the ordinary breech-loader, begin by setting the hammer at
half-cock. Open the lever, then draw the bolt, starting it with a tap
from the handle of the screwdriver. Next detach the fore-piece, and the
barrel will come out without further resistance. Instructions to take
down and assemble different kinds of breech-loading guns will be found in
Chapter XL.
_To Clean the Gun when Apart._—In olden times a bucket of water and a
wisp of tow and a stout “wiper” had to be brought into requisition,
particularly for the interior of the barrel, but now these things are
mainly obsolete, so far as relates to the outfit of the gunsmith. The
owner of a muzzle-loader, who does not wish to remove the breechpin, may
still resort to the old plan of washing out the barrel, though there is
now really no necessity for it. A little benzine poured down the muzzle,
after stopping the tube, will do the work of cleaning effectually and in
a few minutes. Let stand a short time, then remove the plug from the tube
and force the benzine out by running down a tow wad on the wiper—all the
dirt will go out through the tube with it, leaving you nothing to do but
wipe the benzine from the bore with the tow.
In the case of a gun unbreeched, or a breech-loader, all that is
necessary is to saturate a bit of cotton flannel with benzine and run it
through the barrel a few times. If the gun is a fine one, well finished,
this process will leave the interior as shining and bright as a mirror.
With the same arrangement rub thoroughly any of the metal parts that
happen not to be clean, and all impurities will promptly leave them.
After this, oil and wipe with a chamois skin, and the work is done.
Benzine may be had at any drug store at about the price of kerosene. It
is especially valuable as a gun cleaner for two reasons: its peculiar
fitness for detaching and carrying away dirt, and its highly volatile
properties, which cause it to evaporate and entirely leave the metal
in a short time after the application has been made. Its adoption has
completely done away with the necessity of ever using a drop of water
upon a gun, in any case, which is a matter of decided importance and
advantage.
_To Put the Gun Together._—With the muzzle-loaders the operation of
putting together is simply a work directly in reverse to that of taking
apart. In case of the common make of breech-loaders a little more
variation may be regarded as necessary. Take the grip of the stock in
the left hand, having the lever open. Hook on the barrel and turn the
gun over with the hammers underneath, still holding the stock at the
grip. The weight of the barrel will keep it in place. With the right hand
attach the forepiece and push in the bolt.
Of course there are guns of peculiar make, now and then to be met
with, which will require a different routine, both in taking apart and
putting together. The details, with full directions for taking down and
assembling nearly all the breech-loading guns now made, will be found
explained, with cuts of their mechanism and working parts, in Chapter
XLII.
A careful study will soon show the gunsmith how they come apart and how
they go together. The main thing is to work with extreme care, and to
never act until you clearly understand what you are doing.
CHAPTER VII.
TOOLS REQUIRED FOR WORK, THEIR COST, ETC.
Given in alphabetical order are some of the tools that will be required
by the gunsmith, and in connection a very brief sketch is given of their
approximate cost at hardware stores. This list is intended only as a sort
of guide in purchasing, and is by no means intended as a complete list of
what may be wanted.
[Illustration: FIGURE 1.]
_The Alcohol Lamp._—This lamp, shown in Fig. 1, is useful for small
soldering, tempering small taps, drills, etc. Glass or brass lamps with
caps to prevent evaporation, are sold for about 50 cents each.
_Alcohol Lamp, Self-Blowing._—This lamp, shown in Fig. 2, very convenient
when continued blowing is required, or when the “knack” of using
the common plow-pipe cannot be readily acquired. It may be used for
soldering, brazing small articles, or hardening small tools, Size 2½
inches diameter and 5 inches high, $2; about 3 inches diameter and 6
inches high, $3.
[Illustration: FIGURE 2.]
_Anvil._—An anvil weighing about ninety or one hundred pounds is heavy
enough. An Eagle anvil of this weight will cost about $9 or $10. The body
of this kind of anvil is cast iron with steel face and horn. Price per
pound is about ten cents.
_Barrel Planes._—These planes are now but little used, except for
stocking guns or rifles which are to be fitted with full-length stocks.
As this form of gun is somewhat going out of use, so the stocker’s planes
are getting to be cast to one side. They are made similar to a narrow
rabbet plane, but have the iron set close to the fore end. Any narrow
plane with the fore end cut off to within half an inch of the opening in
which the iron is placed will make a substitute for the stocker’s plane.
The plane with round face is used to let in round barrels, and one with
a face equal in width to the sides of an octagon barrel, for letting in
such barrels. A narrow plane is used to let in the ramrod, by cutting a
groove centrally in the bottom of the barrel groove. The planes used are
about four in number and the cost is about seven or eight dollars for the
set as sold by dealers.
_Bevel._—Bevels for ascertaining and forming surfaces, not at a right
angle with some certain line, can be had from one dollar upward in price.
The four inch is very good size. The blade is held in position by a
screw, which forms part of the joint on which the blade turns. Shown in
Fig. 3.
[Illustration: FIGURE 3.]
_Beveling Clamp._—These tools are generally made of about three sizes,
and are used for holding hammers when filing the bevel upon the sides.
They are also useful for holding lock-plates while filing the bevel on
them. In the vise, work can only be conveniently held at a vertical or
horizontal position; this clamp is designed to furnish a means to hold
it so as to file an angle of about 45 degrees. The tool is shown in Fig.
4. It is held in the vise, the shoulders resting on the vise jaws. The
spring between the jointed portions opens the tool when the vice jaws
are opened, the closing of the vise jaws, of course, closing the clamp
upon the work that is placed in it. The cost of these tools is from two
to three dollars, according to size and quality.
[Illustration: FIGURE 4.]
_Blacksmith Tongs._—Blacksmith tongs can now be purchased of the hardware
dealer. The twelve-inch length are used for small work, and the fifteen
or eighteen for heavier work. The twelve inch cost about 50 cents; the
fifteen, 62, and the eighteen, 75 cents each.
_Blow-Pipe._—Select a blow-pipe eight or ten inches in length, with bulb
or without, as fancy may dictate. If the end where the mouth comes in
contact be silver or nickle-plated, it will not taste of brass. If it
be difficult to get one plated, tin it with soft solder by wetting with
soldering acid, and melting the solder on it by holding it over the lamp.
Wipe off all superfluous solder with a rag. The cost of plain eight or
ten inch pipe is about 25 cents. Add about one-third or one-half this
price for pipes with bulb.
_Breeching Taps._—Breeching taps ought to be obtained in pairs, one to
enter first and another to follow, cutting a full thread at the bottom.
The prices per pair are for the ⅜ inch $2.25; ½ inch, $2.50; ⅝ inch,
$2.75. For shot gun taps, ¾ inch, $3.00; ⅞ inch, $3.25. A stock with dies
will cost about a like sum, but if the stock be fitted with only two sets
of dies, it will be much less. The two threads used for rifle pins are 14
and 16 to the inch.
The 14 and 16 threads are not always adhered to. A house in Philadelphia
say they use taps of 18 threads, and a firm in Pittsburg advertise taps
of 20 threads per inch.
_Calipers and Dividers._—The best length of spring calipers and dividers,
for common bench work, is about four inches. The cost is from 50 cents to
$1.50, according to quality.
_Chisels._—The chisels, as used by stockers, are about half a dozen in
number. The narrowest is about one-eighth of an inch wide, and the widest
about half inch. The set of six will cost about a dollar or a dollar and
a half.
_Cutting Pliers._—A pair of cutting pliers, six inches in length, for
cutting wire, are indispensable. Select those of good quality. Poor
pliers of this description are poor, indeed. The cost will be from 75
cents to $1.50. There are patented pliers of this kind in market that are
recommended by many who use them.
_Drill Stock._—Many kinds are in market, from eight inches in length
upward. Some are termed hand drills, and the larger ones, used against
the breast, are called breast drills. The hand drills can be obtained as
low as 50 cents and upward; the price of breast drills from two to three
dollars. Select a drill stock, if one be required, of a size and strength
to suit the work to which it will be used.
_File Card._—This is for cleaning filings, dirt, etc., that may collect
in files. It consists of a strip of common cotton card tacked to a piece
of wood conveniently shaped to handle. It is also useful to clean the
dirt and debris that will collect in screw taps. The cost is about 25
cents. Shown in Fig. 5.
[Illustration: FIGURE 5.]
_Fitting Square._—A fitting square with a four, five or six-inch blade
is required for many purposes, not only for laying out iron stocks and
marking off “square work,” but other work that will come into a gun shop.
The gun squares used by carpenters and cabinet makers are very good. If
the stock be of iron, or an iron frame filled with wood, they are better
than those with wooden stocks. The cost of the six-inch may be about 75
cents. The other somewhat less.
_Floats._—For half-stocking, the gouge and floats are used for letting
in barrels. The floats are made with a handle bent at an angle so that
the hand will not hit the work. The round float in form resembles a
gouge with teeth like a coarse file cut on the rounded or bottom surface.
Floats have been made by drawing the temper of a thick gouge and cutting
teeth in it, or taking a half-round file and drawing the temper, and then
cutting teeth on the round side. Floats for octagon barrels are flat,
like a chisel with teeth cut on one of the flat sides. A thin float for
letting in cross bolts is made in the same manner. A float for fitting
ramrods may be made of a steel rod with teeth cut on one end, and a
handle fixed to the other. The bolt float will cost about 50 cents. The
rod float about $1.00 each for two sizes. Rifle, two sizes, about $1.25
each. Shot gun, two sizes, about $1.50 each.
_Forge._—Little advice can be given respecting a forge. Some prefer the
bellows forge, while others select the fan blower. The great requirement
of the gunsmith is portability and occupying little space. It should also
be so enclosed as to prevent escape of dust, and be free from accident of
fire escaping if left with the fire lighted. The cost of either form of
portable forge will be from $20, upward.
_Glue Pot._—Glue pots can be purchased with kettle fitting inside the
pot and tinned on inside, quart size about 75 cents. A glue pot may be
extemporized by selecting a common round fruit can, cutting out the cover
so as to allow a smaller can to fit and be held in place. Where economy
is desired or a pot cannot be purchased, the can glue pot will answer
every purpose.
_Gouges._—About six gouges are needed. The sizes are about one-eighth
for the smallest, and increasing to three-quarters for the largest. The
cost of the set will be about one dollar and a quarter.
_Grind Stone._—An Ohio stone, about 20 inches diameter and 2½ inches
thick, mounted plain, can be got up for about three or four dollars. The
iron fixtures will cost about a dollar, and the stone a cent and a half
or more per pound, according to locality.
_Hack Saw._—A hack saw shown in Fig. 6, with iron frame, to hold a blade
of eight or ten inches in length is required for cutting off barrels,
slotting screws, cutting off rods of iron, brass, etc., besides many
other uses. The eight inch with blade will cost about $1.25, the ten inch
about $1.50. If at any time a blade be broken they can be replaced at
from 25 to 50 cents.
[Illustration: FIGURE 6.]
_Hammers._—In choosing hammers select the plain riveting hammer with
cross pein. The sizes generally most used are a four ounce, a twelve
ounce and a heavier one for use at the forge. The four ounce costing
about 30 cents, the twelve ounce about 50 cents, and the larger one
according to weight. In selecting hammers try the pein with a fine
file to learn the temper. In many cases the pein is left too soft for
riveting steel.
_Handles._—Handles for files or screwdrivers are best when made of maple
or apple wood. Maple is generally preferred. Some mechanics like soft
wood, as bass-wood or white birch, for file handles, but they are not
so neat as those made of maple. Get those with ferrules made from sheet
brass, raised to form. Soft wood handles are worth about 25 cents per
dozen, and the hard wood about 50 cents.
_Hand Shears._—For cutting sheet tin, brass, thin sheet steel, small
springs, etc., select a pair of hand shears about nine or ten inches in
length, costing about $1.50. With these, common watch-springs can be cut
lengthwise, for making small springs for pistols. The temper need not be
drawn to cut them. (Shown in Fig. 7.)
[Illustration: FIGURE 7.]
_Hand-vise._—A hand-vise for holding wire, screws, etc., is needed. About
four or four and a half inches in length is most convenient. For holding
small wire, cut a groove with a three-square file across the jaws toward
the jointed end. The cost will be from 50 cents to $1.00, according to
quality.
[Illustration: FIGURE 8.]
_Iron Clamps._—A pair of malleable iron clamps (shown in Fig. 8), opening
about four inches, are useful for holding barrels into the stock during
stocking, holding a lock plate or strap in place for marking, holding
barrels together, pieces of wood to be glued, etc. Cost, about 50 cents
each.
[Illustration: FIGURE 9.]
_Mainspring Vise._—This tool (shown in Fig. 9, as clamping a spring) is
used to clamp the mainspring, preparatory to removing it from the lock.
The hammer is set at full cock, and the vise applied, the screw tightened
until the spring can be lifted from place. In taking down double guns,
a vise for each lock spring is very convenient, as the springs can then
rest in the vise, being cramped in place, until ready to be put back
into their respective places. The cost of these vises is from 25 cents
to $2 each, according to quality and make. For a left-side lock, reverse
the sliding piece, so that the short end will bear on the bend of the
mainspring.
_Marking Gauge._—A wood marking gauge is used for laying out lines
parallel to a surface already formed. If made of beech wood, and plain,
it is generally sold for about 25 cents each.
_Screw-cutting Tools._—A small die stock and dies, with taps for lock
work, will cost about $2.50. A plate and ten taps, suitable for all sizes
of nipples, English and German, can be had for about $8.00.
_Screw Wrench._—One of Coe’s patent wrenches, about twelve-inch size,
costing about a dollar, is the best make and the most durable size for
all purposes. This wrench is generally known as a “monkey wrench.”
_Soldering Copper._—A copper for soldering, similar to the kind used by
tinners, is the kind to get. A good size—No. 3—will weigh about a pound
and a half, costing about 75 cents.
_Screw-drivers._—Several screw-drivers are required, and of several
widths, to fit different sized screw heads. The narrowest may be about
one-eighth inch, and the widest, say, half inch to five-eighths inch.
If the mechanic desires to make these himself, select octagon steel,
about one-quarter inch diameter, draw one end to form the tang, and the
other to form the screw-driving part. Get good apple, beech or maple
wood handles. Let the length project about six or seven inches from
the handle. For the larger size screw-drivers get steel three-eighths
diameter. Old files, with the temper drawn and the points ground to
shape, make a passable screw-driver. Screw-drivers purchased at the
store, are generally not so satisfactory as those made from rods. Stub’s
round steel wire rod makes good screwdrivers
_Pliers._—Three kinds of pliers are used by gunsmiths; flat nose, round
nose, and long flat nose or clock-makers’ pliers. Six inch is about the
right length for general use. The round nose are useful for bending wire
or metal into circular forms. The long flat nose for holding work for
soldering and handling work at the forge. Of the flat nose a five inch
pair are useful in many cases. The cost of pliers (six inch), is from
about 50 cents to $1.00 per pair according to quality.
_Wing Dividers._—A pair of wing dividers, about eight inches in length,
will be found the best size for general use. The cost will be about 75
cents. In purchasing see that the screw that binds the leg to the arc
or wing is well fitted. The thread, either in the leg or the screw, is
sometimes stripped or worn out after a little using.
CHAPTER VIII.
TOOLS, ETC., AND HOW TO MAKE THEM.
The tools given in this chapter are such as are needed by the gunsmith,
and as directions are given for making them, they can be made by almost
any ingenious person during leisure hours.
_The Alcohol Lamp._—A lamp for this kind of work is easily made. A common
gum or mucilage bottle with a tube inserted in the cork has been used, so
has a small tin spice-box, with a tube soldered into the cover. A common
copper or brass cartridge, with the head filed off, can be used for a
tube. A common oil can, such as is used for oiling sewing machines, with
about half of the taper tube cut off, will make a serviceable lamp. These
appliances are small, unsightly and not to the taste of the mechanic who
has a pride in the appearance of his tools.
The best form of lamp, shown in Fig. 10, may be made by obtaining a small
glass kerosene hand lamp, which will cost only a trifle of two or three
shillings. Cut off that portion of the burner above the screw, where
it is held to the socket that is fastened to the lamp. Remove the tube
that holds the lamp-wick and also the little contrivance made to raise
and lower the wick. In the place where the tube was inserted, generally
a flat one, file out with a round file, a place which is large enough
to receive a common brass 44-cartridge that has had the head cut off or
removed by filing; this is the tube for the wick. Fasten it in place with
soft solder. Let this tube project a little into the lamp, and solder it
on the under side. The greater portion of the tube projects above the
place where soldered.
[Illustration: FIGURE 10.]
The wick is made of common cotton wicking, letting the end inside touch
the bottom of the lamp. Fill with alcohol, and the lamp is ready for use.
Be careful that the wick is not too tight in the tube, or in other words,
do not fill the tube with too much wick, as it will prevent the alcohol
from rising and the lamp from burning. To prevent evaporation of the
alcohol and to have the wick always ready for lighting, cover the tube
with a cap that fits it quite closely and has the upper end closed. A
brass cartridge that will go over the tube makes a good cover. Remove the
primed cap or see that the cap has been exploded before using it to cover
the lamp tube.
[Illustration: FIGURE 11.]
_A Self-blowing Lamp._—A very good form of this lamp is shown in Fig. 11.
It consists of a lamp enclosed in a kind of cup which has an open place
at the bottom to admit the lamp and a small boiler, fitting loosely, and
held by a flange on its top. A small pipe is soldered to the top of this
boiler and extends downward, and has an end like a blow-pipe that passes
through one side of the cup and ends near or a little above the lamp
wick. The operation is as follows: the lamp being lighted, heats alcohol
placed in the boiler, and the steam thereby made produces a jet that
blows the lamp flame the same as is done with the mouth.
The size of the cup may be from three inches to three and a half in
diameter, and about five inches high. The opening at the bottom may
extend about half of the height. The lamp is made of less diameter than
the interior of the cup to admit of moving to get a good flame from
the blow-pipe. The lamp may be 1¾ inches in diameter and an inch high.
The boiler is about two inches high and has the bottom made a little
convex, as shown by dotted lines, and is some smaller than at the top
where a flange is formed to admit of its resting on the top of the cup.
The top of the boiler is also convex, and has a short tube in which a
cork is fitted, for the purpose of filling it. The blowing tube is about
three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter. There is a long slot in the cup
near its handle which readily admits of its being put in position for
blowing. There are several small holes near the top of the cup to insure
draft to the lamp, and there is a large hole about an inch in diameter
opposite the end of the blow-pipe through which the flame issues where
the work is held.
For silver soldering, small brazing, tempering, or any similar small
work, this lamp is most excellent. To make the small blowing-pipe, drill
a smooth hole through a piece of iron or steel and ream out one side of
it. Cut a strip of thin copper or soft brass of a width just enough to
fill the hole if it were made into a tube. Point one end of the strip and
roughly form it into a tube, insert in the hole and pull it through. Or
the strip can be rolled around a piece of iron wire forming it to a tube
by hammering. Soft solder it after being formed to shape.
_Breech Wrenches._—In many shops the monkey wrench is made to do duty in
removing breech-pins, but at the expense of marring the pin where the
wrench engages it. If many guns with breech-pins like those used in army
guns are handled, it is worth while to have solid wrenches forged of iron
like Fig. 12. The length may be about fifteen inches, with an opening to
fit the shoulder of the breech-pin. The width at this place may be about
one and a half inches; thickness, about half an inch; diameter at end of
handle, about three-quarters of an inch, and at the small portions near
the centre, about half an inch.
[Illustration: FIGURE 12.]
A wrench for removing patent breeches or nuts from double guns is made
like Fig. 13. It consists of a steel bar about fifteen or sixteen inches
long and about three-quarters of an inch diameter. At a little to one
side of the center is fastened a steel collar that has four projections
made at one end. A similar piece is fitted opposite to it, but is made
to move back and forth to fit the work by means of a screw that is formed
behind where it is fitted. A slot is made in the extension of the piece
and a key fitted to prevent its turning around as the nut is turned to
advance it toward its fellow piece.
The only substitute to answer for this tool is to file down the jaws
of a monkey wrench so that they will turn between the extensions of a
patent breech while the first breech is being removed. This is a poor
substitute, as there is only one handle to turn with, and when force is
applied to remove the breech it does not have the force applied equally
to each side as in the other kind of wrench, consequently it is not as
effective nor so easy to remove the breech. If an extension to form
another handle could be improvised it would make it much better.
[Illustration: FIGURE 13.]
_The Bit Stock._—Even if the gunsmith have a lathe there is much work
that can be done to advantage with a common bit-stock. But as the drills
and tools used in the lathe generally have round shanks by which to hold
them in the chuck, the square hole where bits and tools are held in the
bit stock must be filled by brazing or soldering a piece of iron into it
and boring a hole to fit the shank of the lathe tools. It is advisable to
have these shanks about seven-sixteenths diameter, as explained under the
heading “Shanks of Tools.”
In holding small drills made of steel wire or twist drills a small drill
chuck must be fitted to the bit stock.
A small solid chuck with a quarter inch hole may be made with a shank
to fit the seven-sixteenth hole. A set screw must be fitted to hold the
shanks of the two sizes mentioned.
[Illustration: FIGURE 14.]
_Bottoming Tools._—Bottoming tools are used for letting in locks,
cutting out for escutcheons, and are useful in other places where a
chisel cannot be made to operate. The form of this tool is shown in Fig.
14. It consists of a square or round shank about three-sixteenths or a
quarter-inch in diameter and about six inches long. At one end a wooden
handle is attached, and the other end is bent at an angle which is about
half an inch or perhaps a little more, and on this angle is another one
turned parallel with the shank and which is about three-eighths of an
inch long. This is the cutting end and is fashioned like the cutting
edge of a chisel, and is about a quarter of an inch wide. The bottom
side, as it would be held for use, is ground flat and the upper side
bevelled like a chisel. The cutting edge may be square or rounded to
suit round places as letting in the bridle of a lock. The size given is
that generally used, but if it be made about twice this size it will be
found very useful in letting in octagon rifle barrels; if the tool be
made larger and hollow like a gouge it is very useful in letting in round
gun barrels. In letting in break off straps it will be found to take the
place of a chisel to some advantage.
_Chequering Tools._—The tools used for chequering are very simple.
Imagine a small saw, or rather two small saws about one inch or more
long, made at the end of a straight steel shank. The form is given in
Fig. 15. The double saw can be made by filing it as one thick saw and
then cutting a groove lengthwise with it. In using, one blade first forms
a groove and the other blade works the next cut; as the first cut is
finished, another mark is being made while so doing. This insures equal
width of the cuts. Care must be exercised in using them so as not to tear
the wood. A fine cut, sharp edged, three square or a small half round
file may be used to finish the work if desired.
[Illustration: FIGURE 15.]
_Nipple Wrenches._—Two forms of nipple wrenches are used, one for square
and the other for two-sided nipples. The most serviceable of these are
made from a straight rod of steel, with a cross handle and an opening
at the opposite end to correspond with the square on the nipple. For
the two-sided, a hole to receive the round part of the nipple where the
cap goes on, may be drilled in a rod of steel and a slot filed across
to receive the shoulders of the sides. The square shouldered kind must
have a hole drilled of the diameter of the square, and then being heated
a square punch of the size of the square is driven in. The nipples used
for Government or military arms have the squares larger than sporting
guns, and the wrenches are generally made of a flat piece of steel with a
square hole made through from side to side at one end and squared to fit
the tube. When made, harden and draw to a blue color for temper.
_Portable Forge._—The following description of a “home made” portable
forge shown in Fig. 16 is given by a contributor to the _Blacksmith and
Wheelwright_: “In size it is two feet square and three feet high; it is
made entirely of wood; the bellows are round and are sixteen and a half
inches in size, covered then with the best sheep skins. The bed of the
forge consists of a box six inches deep. It is supported by corner posts,
all as shown in the sketch. Through the centre of the bottom is a hole
six inches in diameter for the tuyere; this is three inches in outside
diameter, and is six inches high. The bed is lined with brick and clay.
It does not heat through. The bellows are blown up by means of two half
circles with straps from a board running across the bottom, all of which
will be better understood by reference to the sketch. In addition to
protecting the bed by brick and clay, the tuyere is set through a piece
of sheet iron doubled and properly secured in place. The hood which
surmounts the forge may be made out of old sheet iron, and will be found
sufficient for the purpose. The connection between the tuyere and bellows
is a tin pipe.”
[Illustration: FIGURE 16.]
_Vise Appendages._—The best vise for general use is one made by C.
Parker, Meriden, Conn., and is termed a “swivel” vise. To the bench is
attached a round plate of iron, and on this plate the vise turns to
right or left as may be desired. It is held in position by screwing up
a nut by means of a handle underneath the bench. The jaws are of steel,
and a small projection back of the jaws, formed like a small anvil,
is very convenient for bending work or to lay work upon for cutting,
working with prick punch, etc. The width of jaws of No. 22, the size
that is most convenient, is three and five-eighths inches, the weight
about thirty-five or forty pounds, and the price about eight dollars, or
perhaps a little more. This vise is shown in Fig. 17.
[Illustration: FIGURE 17.]
As the jaws of the vise where the steel faces come together are cut like
a file and tempered, they will necessarily mar or bruise the work. Pieces
of brass or copper must be bent so as to be retained in place and at the
same time cover the file-like surface of the jaws. Pieces of leather,
common belt leather, upon which a little beeswax has been spread, may be
placed between the jaws, and by forcing them together with the screw the
leather will be retained in place. In holding barrels, stocks, and for
stocking a fixture made like the cut, Fig. 18, is best. Two pieces of
thin board, or even two pieces of a wide barrel stave may make it. The
opening is for the purpose of “straddling” the square box of the vise
that encloses the screw. Nail a piece of wood about an inch and a half
thick across the bottom part, before the opening is made, and also nail a
thin piece across the top of the pieces, being careful to sink the nail
heads to as to not mar the work. The top ends of the fixture must come
even with the top of the vise jaws.
[Illustration: FIGURE 18.]
For holding screws without damaging the heads use a pair of false jaws
made of cast brass, like those shown in Fig. 19. The heads being held in
the indentations formed along the upper edges of the fixture. For holding
rods or small square pieces without injury a similar pair of false jaws
are made which are shown in Fig. 20.
[Illustration: FIGURE 19.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 20.]
For holding articles that are tapering a fixture is required like that
given in Fig. 21. The yoke clasps the neck of the vise, and is held in
place by a set-screw. The upright pin is received in the yoke by turning
on a screw cut for the purpose, and by turning this up or down, the
triangular piece at the upper part is made to accommodate itself to the
height of the vise. The back angular corner of this piece has a bearing
against the jaw of the vise, and the opening made between the other jaw
of the vise and the front of this angular piece will be the same as the
piece of work that is held between the two.
[Illustration: FIGURE 21.]
_Shanks of Tools._—The best two sizes for shanks of tools are about
seven-sixteenths and about quarter-inch. Two solid chucks, fitted with
set-screws, may be made for the lathe, and they will be found sufficient
for all kinds of work. If half-inch octagon steel be used for the larger
size, a light chip turned off for about an inch and a quarter, or an inch
and a half, will make the shank. From this size steel may be made large
drills, reamers, countersinks, bullet cherries, etc. The shanks of many
other tools may be made to this standard. When a bit stock is fitted to
hold this size of shank, the tools may be used either in the lathe or by
hand with the bit stock.
Octagon steel, a quarter-inch in diameter, may be used for smaller
tools, or round steel rod of this size may be employed. For small drills
and tools, taps, etc., it will be found very convenient. No turning is
necessary to fit to the solid chuck.
The common cheap bit stock, made from round steel, may be selected, and
the square hole filled with a piece of iron and then brazed to make it
solid. A hole is then drilled to fit the seven-sixteenths shank. A solid
chuck is to be made to fit this, and drilled with a quarter-inch hole to
fit the smaller sized shanks. This solid chuck will also fit the chuck
for the lathe. If barrel boring tools, quick boring reamers, be made with
the larger sized shank, they can be used both in the lathe and with the
bit stock.
CHAPTER IX.
THE WORK BENCH.
_Material for the Work Bench._—The first thing to do in fitting up a shop
is to put up a work bench. Do not make a rude affair of an unplaned plank
and a rough board, but let it be seen that you fitted up your bench for
use, and at the same time sought to have it neat and durable. A plank two
inches thick is heavy enough, yet in some respects it is light enough;
for the front portion of the bench twelve or fourteen inches is a good
width. Pine wood makes a very good bench, but as it is soft, it will
absorb oil, and in time will become black and dirty. As a remedy for
this, give it two or three coats of shellac varnish. The best bench is
made from a hard or sugar maple plank that has been well seasoned and has
been planed true in a planing machine. Ash wood does very well, so does
beech. Oak is not good; it absorbs grease and dirt readily, and if struck
much with a hammer will soon show splinters, the fibres of the wood
easily separating by the blows. A hard maple plank has one advantage;
after being discarded as a bench, it will make good rifle stocks; the
years of use will so season it that it will be valuable. For that part
of the bench—that is, back of the two-inch plank—use a board ten or
twelve inches wide. Select pine or any other kind that fancy may dictate.
Calculate the plank and board so that the width of the bench will be
twenty-two or twenty-four inches.
_How to Make the Work Bench._—For supports for the bench use 2 × 4 inch
studding, such as carpenters use in house building. Pine, oak or any
other material will answer. Plane smooth on all sides. For each support
cut three pieces; two of the height of the bench, and one about an inch
less than the width, so that when the bench is made the plank in front
projects an inch or so in front of the supports. As the short piece on
which the bench rests is four inches wide, cut away half of the thickness
of the uprights of this width at the upper end, and cut enough in length
to receive the short piece, when it is halved together—as is the term
used—thus making it four inches thick when put in place. Fasten with
nails or screws—the latter being the best fastening. To keep these
uprights steady, nail a piece of board about three inches wide, and about
twelve inches from the bottom, from front to the rear upright. On these
pieces a board or two may be placed, with the other end resting upon a
neighboring support, and it forms a convenient shelf upon which to place
boxes and other things that will soon accumulate in any shop.
The height of bench from the floor may be about two feet and ten inches
and a half. This will be found to be the most convenient height.
_Putting the Vise in Place._—In putting the vise in place, fix it on the
bench far enough in front so that if a gun stock or barrel were held
upright in the jaws it will not touch the bench. If there be a window in
front, put it a little to the left of the window. The light will then
shine more on the right side of the vise, and consequently it will be
more easy to distinguish lines or marks that may be made on work held in
the jaws, as it is more convenient to look on the right side of work to
see what is being done than on the left. The height of the vise at the
top of the jaws should be on a level with the elbow of the person who
is to work at it. In no instance try to work with the jaws of the vise
higher than the elbows as the workman stands erect before it. The reason
is this: as the workman grasps the file handle in the right hand and
the point of the file in the left, the arms are in a natural position,
and can be thrust forward and brought back in a horizontal line. If the
elbows were to be raised from the natural position the horizontal forward
and back motion could not be made with facility.
_Place for Drawer._—A few inches to the right of the vise is the best
location for a drawer. This is generally opened or drawn out with the
right hand, and when so placed can be readily opened with that hand
without stepping to one side.
_The Gun Brace._—A gun brace, as shown in Fig. 22, is made from a piece
of inch and a half or two inch plank, with its upper edge of a height
about an inch less than the height of the vise jaws. It is hinged
or pivoted by a single screw passing through the end of the bottom
extension, this screw passing into the bench, the brace turning freely
upon it. It can be swung around back out of the way, and when needed for
use is turned in front, and is ready to support a barrel or gun stock
which is held in the vise. This brace is put to the right of the vise,
but if another one like it is put in the left side it will be found
useful at times.
[Illustration: FIGURE 22.]
In cutting out gun-stocks from the plank, many times pieces of just the
right form for these braces will be found among the “scraps” that will
be made. The shape is of little moment so long as they are of the proper
height and have an extension through which to put the pivot screw.
_To Deaden the Noise of Hammering._—In shops, especially if the work-room
be in an upper story, to deaden the noise of hammering, etc., put
pieces of rubber under the legs of work benches, the feet of lathes,
anvil-block, etc. If rubber cannot be obtained, any woolen texture as
felt or thick loose-made cloth may answer the purpose, but not with so
good results as the rubber. The anvil may be set in a tub made by cutting
off the top of a barrel to the right height and filling it nearly full of
sand or earth.
CHAPTER X.
ON WORKING IN IRON.
_Hand-Forging._—Two rates of heat figure in this operation. If the
object is merely a smoothing of the surface of the iron, the “cherry-red
heat,” so-called, is the rate wanted. The work of smoothing is performed
by striking lightly and evenly with the hand-hammer, until the desired
condition is secured. The same degree of heat is employed where
hammer-hardening the iron is one of the objects to be obtained; in this
case the blows with the hammer must be heavier than in the case first
named.
If the forging is to extend to a material change in the shape of the
iron, the rate of heat must be much higher; it must be increased to what
smiths call the “white flame heat.” The hammering must be much heavier,
of course; if the piece is large a sledge-hammer must be brought into
requisition. But the gunsmith will seldom have work heavy enough to
demand the aid of an assistant with a sledge-hammer.
_Welding._—The “welding” or “sparkling heat” is required in this process,
which is a higher degree of heat than either named in the forgoing. In
securing this heat, the metal is brought nearly to a state of fusion;
which condition is made known by its sparkling, and presenting the
appearance of being covered with a glaze, or a fresh coat of varnish.
So soon as the two pieces of iron to be welded together have both
attained to this necessary degree of heat, they are taken from the fire
with the utmost dispatch, the scales or dirt which would hinder their
incorporation scraped off, placed in contact at the heated point, and
hammered until a union has been effected, and no seam or fissure remains
visible. If the first effort fails to unite them sufficiently, they must
be reheated and rehammered until the desired end is secured.
The fire for welding should be free from sulphur; and the iron, while
heating, should be taken out now and then and sprinkled over at the point
of greatest heat with powdered glass, or with powdered borax. A small
proportion of sand or powdered clay is sometimes mixed with the borax.
These applications tend to prevent the iron from running or burning, and
they are supposed to assist the adhesion when the two pieces are brought
together in the act of welding.
_Hardening Iron by Hammering._—Iron may be hardened to the character of
a pretty fair spring metal by simply hammering it thoroughly while in a
cold state. Many of the cheap spiral springs in use, as those attached to
small bells for the purpose of imparting a vibratory motion, are hardened
or stiffened in this way. They are first cut from soft sheet-iron and
then hammered into the required hardness. Some heat to a cherry red and
hammer to and after entire coldness.
_Case-Hardening._—The various parts of gun mountings, such as guards,
heel plates, etc., and the different parts of locks, such as hammers,
tumblers, triggers and plates, as received by the gunsmith from the
manufacturer or dealer in such articles, are generally in the rough or
partially finished condition. Many gunsmiths, particularly those in the
country, where there is more or less a class of cheap work, finish up
these parts with a file and a little hand polishing, and when the work
is put together hand it over to the customer. Not only tumblers and
triggers, but even sears and tubes are finished up in this manner. As
these parts are almost always made of soft iron, the result is they soon
wear and have to be repaired.
The gunsmith who does good work will thoroughly case-harden the parts
when they are fitted and finished, and by so doing will turn out a really
good piece of work that will wear as well as hardened steel. Why the
majority of the trade do not case-harden their work cannot very well be
explained, unless they are ignorant of the process or do not care to be
put to the trouble of doing it. It is true it may be made a tedious job
or a quick and easy one.
Some gunsmiths, when such work is finished, heat it red hot, smear it
with prussiate of potash or cyanide of potassium, and while hot, plunge
it into cold water, letting it chill. This produces a superficially
hardened surface that is not “skin deep,” and as soon as this surface
becomes abraded will wear away rapidly.
If the case-hardening of the expert manufacturer be examined, it will be
observed that the surface of such work has a fine grayish appearance, and
in many places mottled with colored tints that are pleasing and beautiful
to the mechanical eye. It will be further observed that the hardening is
of such depth that it will wear for a long time. In fact it will wear
better than hardened steel. The condition of the material is that of a
hardened steel surface stretched over and shrunk upon the iron body of
the work. It is stronger than steel, for it has the tenacity of iron
for its interior. It has the advantage of steel, inasmuch as it may be
bent when cold to a limited degree, and when so hardened will not break
as readily as steel. This property of bending is not confined to all
articles, as they may case-harden entirely through, and then they will
be very brittle and easily broken, but by drawing them to temper after
hardening, in the same manner as a tool is drawn to temper, they may be
of any hardness desired.
_A good way to Case-Harden._—The easiest and perhaps the best way to
case-harden gun work is to have a number of short pieces of common gas
pipe, such as will be adapted to the size or quantity of the work, and
have one end of these pieces securely plugged or closed. One way will be
to heat the pipe and close by flattening the end with a hammer on the
anvil, but it is a “slouchy” way of doing it. A neater way is to have a
gas fitter cut a thread in the pipe and then screw in a plug, such as are
used to close ends of gas pipe; if such cannot be obtained, drive in a
cast-iron plug and upset the end of the pipe so that it will not readily
come out. In these pieces of pipe place the work, packing it well with
good, fine bone-dust, such as is used by farmers for fertilizing land. Be
careful to so pack that the different pieces of work will not touch each
other. Stop the open end of the pipe with a cover, but in such a manner
as to be readily opened; place the pipe and its contents in a good fire,
letting it remain at a red heat for fifteen minutes or more, dependent
upon the thickness of the articles or the depth they should be hardened.
Remove from the fire and quickly empty the contents of the pipe into a
pail of cold water.
If pieces of gas pipe cannot very well be obtained, thimbles from old
carriage hubs may be used instead. Plug up the small end, fit a cover
to the large end and use as if it were gas pipe. As these thimbles are
made of cast iron they will not bear the rough usage nor the heat that
wrought iron will withstand. Common cast malleable iron makes the best
receptacles to contain work for case-hardening.
Articles of malleable iron and cast iron are as easily case-hardened as
wrought iron. A poor quality of steel is benefited by the operation, as
the metal imbibes carbon in which it was before deficient.
_Material for Case-Hardening._—For case-hardening, bone-dust is the
article most readily obtained and it is clean and neat to use; but it
will not produce the mottled tints that charred or burned leather will
give. The leather may be prepared by cutting up old shoes or boots,
putting them in an old pan and setting the mass on fire. Let it burn
until it is a charcoal that will readily crumble in pieces by using a
little force. Grind this charcoal to a fine powder by pounding in a
mortar or by running it through an old coffee or spice mill. Pack the
work with the powder, the same as bone-dust. Bone-black may be used the
same as bone-dust, but it is not very satisfactory in its results. It
is also dirty to use and to have around a shop. Ivory dust will also
answer the same purpose as bone-dust. Gun guards, straps, and long
pieces of work will become shorter by case-hardening, and it is best not
to fit such pieces into the stock until after they are hardened. If it
be desired to have a portion of the work left soft and the other parts
hardened, securely cover the places to be left soft, with a coating of
moist clay, and this will prevent the hardening material from coming in
contact, and, consequently, it will have no opportunity to absorb carbon
and harden when put in the cold water.
It may also be observed that articles that are case-hardened will not
rust so readily as those not so treated.
If the articles be quite thin and there be danger of their cracking
by sudden chilling, the water may be warmed a little, or a film of
oil may be spread on the water which will tend to prevent a too sudden
contraction of the articles while cooling.
If it be desired to have the work present the colors or mottled tints as
seen on some kinds of case-hardened gun work, the surface of the work
before being put in the receptacles containing the burnt leather, must be
nicely polished and then buffed or burnished. The higher the finish the
more brilliant will be the colors.
In using prussiate of potash to case-harden, the potash must be finely
powdered, the work heated and dipped in, or if the work be large the
potash must be spread over it. The work must be hot enough to fuse the
potash, and if it become somewhat cold by removing from the fire it must
be reheated, removed quickly from the fire and quenched in cold water.
_Another way to Case-Harden._—Collect such articles of animal origin as
cows’ horns, or hoofs of either cows or horses, or leather trimmings
from about the shoe-shops, or old cast off boots or shoes, and burn
them until sufficiently charred to admit of being easily pounded into
a powder. Having finished up the article to be hardened, ready for the
final polish, place it in an iron box, and surround it completely on all
sides by a packing of the powder. Pour into the box, until the powder is
made moist, a saturated solution of common salt in urine. Next close the
box and seal it until airtight, with wet and well-worked clay, then put
it into the furnace and blow up gradually until heated to a cherry red.
Don’t run the heat any higher, but hold it at that about five minutes,
then take out and plunge at once into the slack-tub.
By this means a piece of soft malleable iron is rendered as hard as
hardened steel. Some workmen contend that the salt solution is of no
particular importance—that just as good results will come of packing in
the animal charcoal alone. The iron box, though very convenient when a
good deal of case-hardening is to be done, is not an absolute necessity.
If the article, surrounded by the animal charcoal, is incased in a ball
of stiff and well-worked clay, and then exposed to the proper heat and
slacking, the results will be the same as if heated in an iron box.
_Another Formula._—In earlier times, when guns were more in use than
either agricultural or mechanical implements, and there was a gunsmith’s
shop at almost every cross-road, they had a way of case-hardening
that was much more simple than either of the foregoing, and yet quite
effectual. Scraps of old leather, as cut from old boots or shoes, were
tightly wrapped and tied around the piece of iron to be made hard, to the
extent of several thicknesses. Around this was placed a layer of sand
and salt in equal proportions, to the thickness of half an inch. The
sand and salt was dampened with water to make it stick together. A layer
of plastic clay, an inch in thickness, was worked around the whole, and
the ball, so made, was exposed to heat at about the cherry-red degree,
sufficiently long to consume the leather, when it was dropped suddenly
into the slack-tub.
_Still Another Formula._—Make a powder of pulverized prussiate of potash,
sal-ammoniac and saltpetre in equal parts. Heat the iron to cherry-red
and sprinkle thoroughly on all sides with the powder, then immediately
plunge into the slack-tub.
Some smiths contend that the pulverized prussiate of potash, used in the
same way, is entirely effectual without the other ingredients.
_To Chill Cast Iron._—Make a powder by pulverizing together, salt, 2
lbs.; saltpetre, ½ lb.; alum, ½ lb.; ammonia, 4 ozs., and salts of
tartar, 4 ozs. Heat the iron to cherry-red, sprinkle thoroughly with the
powder and then plunge into cold water.
_Another Mode._—Make a solution by dissolving in 10 gallons of soft
water, salt, 1 peck; oil vitriol, ½ pint; saltpetre, ½ lb.; prussiate
of potash, ¼ lb., and cyanide of potassium, ½ lb. Heat the iron to
cherry-red and plunge at once into the cold solution. This makes cast
iron hard enough to cut glass, and is the method usually resorted to for
hardening the cheap cast-iron glass cutters, now so common on the market.
_To Soften Wrought Iron._—Heat the iron with a slow blast to a dark-red,
then pour upon the burning coals half a pint of fluoric acid. Keep up
the blast gently, without increasing the degree of heat, until all sign
of the acid has disappeared, then lay out the iron to cool gradually of
itself.
_Alloy for Filling Holes in Iron._—Melt together nine parts lead, two
parts antimony and one part bismuth. Pour into the hole while in a molten
state, or drive in while the iron is somewhat hot. This alloy possesses
the peculiarity of expanding as it cools, consequently the plug tightens
as its temperature falls.
_To Harden Iron for Polishing._—Pulverize and dissolve the
following-named articles in one quart of boiling water: blue vitriol, 1
ounce; borax, 1 ounce; prussiate of potash, 1 ounce; charcoal, 1 ounce,
and common salt, ½ pint. Add to this 1 gallon raw linseed oil. Having
finished up the article ready for polishing, heat it to a cherry-red, and
plunge into the mixture; a rapid stirring of the mixture should be going
on at the time when the plunge is made.
This preparation hardens the iron to such a degree that it takes and
retains polish almost equal to the best of steel.
CHAPTER XI.
ON WORKING IN STEEL.
_Hand-Forging Steel._—In the main this does not differ materially from
the same work in iron. Special care must be exercised to have the fire
clear of sulphur, hence charcoal is the best fuel to use. In cases where
the use of bituminous coal cannot be avoided, the fire should be blowed
up for several minutes before putting in the steel, to drive off the
sulphur.
Steel to be forged should not be heated to so high a degree as is
employed for iron; for ordinary light work a little above a cherry-red is
enough. It does not work well under a high degree of heat; and, to make
amends, it can be worked much colder than iron. In fact, it is always
best to hammer it with light blows until the red color of the heat has
entirely disappeared, as this improves its texture by adding decidedly to
the closeness of the grain.
_Welding Steel._—The common method employed for welding iron to iron is
often resorted to for welding steel to steel, but a great deal more care
is necessary to success in the latter than in the former case. There must
be much precision so far as relates to the rate of heat, as the margin
for variation is extremely small. If the temperature is not high enough
there will be no adhesion, of course; and if it attains to only a few
degrees above what is actually necessary, the steel either “runs” and
is ruined, or is ruined by going into an unworkable condition known as
“burnt.” It sometimes becomes necessary to weld steel and iron together;
this may be effected by the same process as that employed in welding
steel to steel. None but workmen of thorough experience would be apt to
succeed in either case, on the old plan of proceeding the same as in
welding iron to iron.
But steel may be more easily welded than on the old plan by the
employment of certain welding compositions. One of them consists of
half a pound of saltpetre dissolved in half a pound of oil of vitriol,
and afterwards added to two gallons of soft water. Heat the pieces to a
cherry-red, then plunge them into this composition; after which proceed
to reheat and weld in the usual way. At the welding the strokes of the
hammer should be quick and light.
Another composition is made by pulverizing together ten parts of borax
and one part of sal-ammoniac. Thoroughly melt the composition so made
in an iron pot, then pour out upon some level surface to cool. When
cooled grind to a fine powder. Heat the pieces of steel and sprinkle this
welding powder over them; then return to the fire, and again heat up, and
it is ready to go together under the hammer.
Some smiths claim to weld steel successfully by dusting over the heated
pieces a powder composed of clear white sand, 2 lbs., and plaster of
Paris, 1 lb.; then reheating and proceeding in the usual way.
In welding steel to iron the foregoing processes are employed the same as
if both pieces were steel.
_Tempering._—Heat the steel to a bright cherry-red, and plunge it at once
into cold water. It will then be as hard as fire and water could make
it, and too hard for anything except hardened bearings for machinery, or
for some kind of implements necessary to be extremely hard, as tools for
cutting glass, and the like. In this condition it is almost as brittle
as glass itself, and hence would not stand for most of the uses to which
tempered steel is applied. Its great degree of hardness must, therefore,
be reduced to the proper standard, depending upon what it is to be used
for. This is done by heating and closely observing the resulting colors
as they appear upon the metal. If the piece under process is an edge-tool
of considerable bulk, only the cutting-edge, and a little back of it, is
plunged into the water at the hardening, the rest of the implement being
left still hot. It is then held into the light and observed closely, when
the different colors, indicating the different degrees of hardness, will
be seen moving slowly, one after the other, down towards the edge, driven
by the heat still left in the part of the metal not plunged. When the
color wanted has reached the edge, the entire piece is plunged into the
slack-tub, which stops further action of the heat, and establishes the
required degree of hardness exactly where it is desired. But very light
articles and implements cannot be tempered in this way, as they will
not retain sufficient heat to drive the colors; it will be necessary to
reheat them gradually in some way to make the colors move. Very light
pieces, as drills and the like, are best tempered in a spirit or alcohol
lamp; after having been hardened they should be held in the flame of the
lamp a little back of the point or cutting-edge, which will enable the
operator to note the movement of the colors. In this case his actions,
so far as the colors are concerned, will be governed the same as in the
other. Small articles to be tempered alike all over may be placed upon a
bit of sheet-iron, after hardening, and the iron held over the fire of
the forge, or directly over the flame of the lamp, until the required
color has appeared, when they must be quickly plunged into the water.
On large articles the colors will be often so strongly marked as to be
readily seen on the surface of the metal, rough, just as it came from the
hammer, but in small articles they will be somewhat faint; hence it is
best to give small articles a slight polish before exposing them to heat
for drawing the temper. Nine shades of color will present themselves one
after the other as a piece of thoroughly-hardened steel is exposed to
gradually-increasing heat. They are:
1. Very faint yellow, appearing at a temperature of 430° Fahrenheit.
If slacked at this color, the piece will be very hard, having a temper
admirably suited to drills for working in hard metals or hard stone.
2. Pale straw-color—450°. Still very hard, suitable for the faces of
hammers and anvils.
3. Full yellow—470°. Shears and scissors.
4. Brown—490°. Gravers and turning-tools for hard metals; also
percussion-lock gun tubes.
5. Brown, with purple spots—510°. Wood-working tools and most of the
steel parts in a gun-lock with the exception of the springs; also knives
of all sorts for cutting wood.
6. Purple—538°. Butcher-knives and other flesh-cutting implements.
7. Dark blue—550°. Tools requiring strong cutting-edges without extreme
hardness, as case-knives.
8. Full blue—560°. Chopping-axes.
9. Grayish blue, verging on black—600°. Springs, saws, swords, and the
like.
Various other methods of tempering steel are sometimes recommended, as
with oils, tallow, lead, mercury and divers solutions; but since the
matter-of-fact gunsmith will find use for none of them, it is not deemed
proper to encumber this book with anything further on the subject of
tempering. It might be well to state, however, that the hardest degree
to which steel can be brought is secured by heating the piece to a light
yellow and instantly plunging it into cold mercury.
_To Restore “Burnt” Steel._—Pulverize together two parts horn or hoof
filings; one part sal ammoniac; one part charcoal, and one part common
soda. When thoroughly ground together, work in tallow enough to make
a kind of wax or paste. Bring the damaged steel to a bright cherry-red
heat, and then cover with the paste, leaving it to cool gradually.
The process may be repeated several times with profit if considered
necessary. While a piece of badly-burnt steel may not be entirely
restored by this process, it can be much improved. Entire restoration is
scarcely possible.
_Annealing Steel._—Heat the steel to a cherry-red in a charcoal fire, the
last thing to be done before quitting work at the forge for the day or
night; then smother the fire down with a thick layer of ashes or sawdust,
leaving the steel in, just as heated. Let so remain until the fire is all
out, and the steel entirely cool, which will require several hours. Some
smiths use a piece of gas-pipe in which to heat small steel articles for
annealing, claiming that it is very advantageous. They put the piece into
the pipe and heat to a cherry red, looking in occasionally to ascertain
when it has attained to that temperature; then they cover the fire, pipe
and all, and leave it to cool as in the other case.
_To Blue Steel._—Polish the article to be blued, then place it upon a
strip of sheet iron and heat slowly over a forge fire or lamp, until the
desired blue color appears. Let cool, and the color will remain permanent.
_To Remove Blue Color from Steel._—Immerse for a few minutes in a liquid
composed of equal parts muriatic acid and oil of vitriol. Rinse in pure
water and rub dry with chamois skin or some kind of soft cloth.
_Tempering Knife Blades._—To heat the blades lay them in a clear charcoal
fire, with the _cutting edge downwards_, and heat very slowly. It is not
particular if the back of the blade, which is _uppermost_, is so very
hot or not. Harden in clean luke-warm water. If many blades are to be
hardened at once, lay a number in the fire and remove one at a time as
they are properly heated. To temper, brighten one side on a grindstone or
emery wheel so that the temper color can be seen, and lay the blades in
the fire, or on an iron plate heated over the fire, with the backs _down_
and the cutting edges _uppermost_. On the plate place wood ashes or fine
sand to help keep the blades in proper position, and also facilitate even
drawing. When the proper color is seen on the brightened portion of the
cutting edge, remove and cool in cold water.
When an extra tough blade is wanted, after it is hardened, handle it so
that it will not draw any lower after removing from the fire, and let it
cool without putting in water.
Long blades, when they are being drawn, can be straightened, if
necessary, by putting them between two pins in the anvil or pins fixed
in an iron block and bending between these until straight, wetting the
blade with a cloth or sponge saturated with water, when the blade is thus
straightened. Surprising as it may seem, when hardened steel is being
drawn, it can be bent to quite an extent, and when cooled will remain
as bent. File makers straighten files in this manner. Sword blades and
blades of butchers’ knives undergo the same process of manipulation to
be made straight.
_The Lead Bath for Tempering._—Among the many secrets of tempering is
the employment of the lead bath, which is simply a quantity of molten
lead, contained in a suitable receptacle and kept hot over a fire. The
uses of this bath are many. For instance, if it be desired to heat an
article that is thick in one portion and thin in another, every one who
has had experience in such work knows how difficult it is to heat the
thick portion without overheating the thin part. If the lead bath be made
and kept at a red heat, no matter how thick the article may be, provided
sufficient time be given, both the thick and thin parts will be evenly
and equally heated, and at the same time get no hotter than the bath in
which they are immersed.
For heating thin cutting blades, springs, surgical instruments, softening
the tangs of tools, etc., this bath is unequaled.
If a portion of an article be required to be left soft, as the end of a
spring that is to be bent or riveted, the entire may be tempered, and
the end to be soft may be safely drawn in the lead bath to the lowest
point that steel can be annealed without disturbing in the least the
temper of the part not plunged in the bath. Springs, or articles made of
spring brass, may be treated in the same manner. One great advantage in
using the lead bath is that there is no risk of breakage or shrinkage of
the metal at the water line, as is often the case when tempered by the
method of heating and chilling in cold water.
As lead slowly oxidizes at a red heat, two methods may be used to prevent
it. One is to cover the surface of the lead with a layer of fine charcoal
or even wood ashes. Another and a better plan, when the work will admit
of its use, is to float on the top of the lead a thin iron plate, fitting
the vessel in which the lead is contained, but having a hole in the
centre or on one side, as most convenient, and large enough to readily
admit the articles to be tempered or softened.
_Test for Good Steel._—Break the bar of steel and observe the grain,
which in good steel should be fine and present a silvery look, with
sometimes an exfoliated or leaf-like appearance. One of the best tests
of steel is to make a cold chisel from the bar to be tested, and when
carefully tempered (be careful not to overheat), try it upon a piece of
wrought iron bar. The blows given will pretty correctly tell its tenacity
and capability of holding temper. Remember the temper you gave it, and if
it proves tough and serviceable, take this temper as a guide and temper
other tools in like manner. Inferior steel is easily broken, and the
fracture presents a dull, even appearance, which may very appropriately
be termed a lifeless look.
_Etching on Steel._—Make an etching solution by pulverizing together
sulphate of copper, one ounce; alum, one-quarter ounce, and common salt,
one-half teaspoonful. Add one gill strong vinegar and twenty drops
nitric acid. Stir till thoroughly dissolved. Polish up the metal to
be etched, and then cover its polished surface with a thin coating of
bees-wax. This can be accomplished with neatness by simply heating the
metal till the wax flows evenly over its surface. Now draw upon the wax,
cutting cleanly through to the steel the figure you wish to etch; then
cover the figure so prepared with the etching solution, and let stand for
a short time, depending upon the depth of cut desired. Finally rinse off
with clear water, and then remove the bees-wax. It will be found that the
solution has cut into the surface of the steel wherever exposed, leaving
untouched all parts covered by the wax.
Very good etching can be done by applying, on the foregoing plan, nitric
acid alone. Etching offers a good method of cutting a man’s name on his
gun or pistol. It works on silver or brass the same.
CHAPTER XII.
ON WORKING IN SILVER, COPPER AND BRASS.
_To Forge Silver._—The gunsmith will not have much to do with silver
in the work of his trade, though instances may occur now and then when
he will be called upon to make or repair mountings or ornaments for
gun-stocks formed of this metal, and also foresights, particularly for
the old fashioned Kentucky rifle.
In shaping silver under the hammer no heat will be necessary at the
hammering—it would do no good. The metal is so malleable that it may be
drawn into almost any shape by simply hammering cold. The only trouble
liable to come up in this kind of work will be the hardening of the
metal under the influence of the hammer; but this trouble may be pretty
effectually removed by heating the silver to redness, and then letting
it cool gradually of itself. Care must be taken not to heat it too much
above the first appearance of red, as it melts quite easily.
_To Polish Silver._—File it down to the shape desired, then dress with
a fine file; then work over thoroughly with a burnisher. Next buff it
off with rotten stone, and if a particularly fine finish is desired buff
again with rouge.
_Light Plate for Copper or Brass._—Dissolve silver in nitric acid by
the assistance of heat; put some pieces of copper into the solution and
immediately the silver will be precipitated. With fifteen or twenty
grains of the precipitate thus obtained mix half a drachm of alum and
two drachms each of tartar and common salt. Pulverize well together.
Having thoroughly cleaned the surface to be plated, rub it well and hard
with the mixture, using a bit of chamois skin, until it presents a white
appearance. Next polish off with soft leather until bright.
Inferior as this kind of plating would seem, it will wear a long time.
_To Clean Silver._—Wash with a little spirits of ammonia reduced in
strength by twice its bulk of pure water, then rub dry and bright with
soft leather. No kind of polishing powder will be necessary. Some workmen
clean silver by first washing it over with diluted muriatic acid, then
immediately covering the surface with dry prepared chalk, then brushing
off and rubbing clean with a bit of chamois skin. It acts very well, but
care must be had to get the acid thoroughly cleaned off else it will have
a tendency to soon tarnish the silver.
_To Work Copper._—This metal is almost as malleable as silver, and
works very well under the hammer in a cold state. Heat adds nothing to
its malleability, though, as in the case of silver, exposure to a low
degree of heat, followed by gradual cooling, softens it somewhat when it
has been rendered hard and brittle by long hammering. It polishes very
well, but does not long retain its polish and brilliancy on account of
its disposition to oxidize. Heating increases its oxidation; repeatedly
heating and cooling would soon wear it entirely away.
_To Work Brass._—This material is a combination of copper and zinc, and
since zinc is not so malleable as copper, it renders the brass less
malleable. Nevertheless it forges out pretty well under the hammer, in a
cold state, the only condition in which it can be so worked. Hammering
increases its hardness with great rapidity, soon converting it into a
very fair spring metal. Brass springs are quite common—they are all made
by repeatedly hammering or rolling the metal while cold. As in the case
of both silver and copper, heating and gradual cooling removes this
hardness. This is the plan for softening usually recommended in books on
working metals, but no advantage will be found to arise from the gradual
cooling in the case of either silver, copper or brass. The custom is to
heat the metal to the lowest degree that would show redness and then
plunge it directly into cold water.
_To Cast Brass._—The gunsmith may occasionally find it necessary to cast
something in brass. This he can do without trouble, as brass melts quite
easily. The mould should have vents at or near the top to admit the
free escape of air as the molten metal runs in to take its place; and
it is always best, if possible, to arrange so that the metal will enter
the mould near the bottom and rise up in the filling. Without such an
arrangement there is danger of air bubbles remaining under the metal and
spoiling the casting. The metal should be heated only to a degree high
enough to admit of flowing freely and no higher.
_To Brass Iron._—Clean and polish the iron thoroughly, being extremely
careful not to touch its surface with the fingers at the finishing;
then plunge it into molten brass. Take out immediately; a thin coating
of brass will be found covering the iron, which may be polished or
burnished, giving the article the appearance of solid brass.
_To Clean Brass._—To half a pint of soft water add one tablespoonful
of oxalic acid. Wash the article with this, then cover with prepared
chalk, brush dry and polish with chamois skin, as in cleaning silver. The
solution may be bottled and kept on hand for use as wanted.
_To Solder Brass._—The processes in soft soldering are the same for
all metals, full instructions for which may be found in Chapter XXXIV.
Hard soldering (see also Chapter XXXIV) is something different, and in
the case of brass it is somewhat different on account of the low degree
of temperature at which the metal melts. The solder most commonly used
is composed of two parts of common brass and one part of zinc, melted
together. Reduce your solder to fine bits by cutting or filing, and then
mix with sal-ammoniac and borax, the two latter having been pulverized
together in equal parts and moistened with water to form a kind of paste.
Carefully clean the pieces to be joined, lay them together, place the
soldering compound along the upper edge of the joint, which must be held
vertically, and then heat gradually over a charcoal fire until the solder
is seen to run down between the pieces. The instant the solder is seen
to run remove the work from the fire, tap the work gently with a small
hammer to jar the solder into all interstices, and, if the work be so
that it can be done, scrape off the superfluous solder and burnt borax
with an old file.
CHAPTER XIII.
ON WORKING IN WOOD.
_The Woods Most in Use._—Various woods are now employed for making gun
stocks, but among them all, the most popular, perhaps, is black walnut.
It is deservedly so from the fact that it is light, works easily, takes a
superior polish, has a rich dark color, naturally, and when finished up
does not incline to “check.” So popular is it, indeed, that most of the
other woods worked into gun stocks are stained and finished up to imitate
walnut.
In some portions of the country hard or sugar maple (“sugar tree”) is
worked quite extensively by the local gunsmiths. It makes a very nice
stock, finishing to good advantage, especially “curled maple,” which
is really beautiful. Soft maple is also extensively used, stained and
finished to imitate either hard maple or walnut.
The common dogwood makes an excellent gun-stock, but it works badly on
account of the smallness of the tree rendering it difficult for one to
get the pieces sawed out in proper shape at the beginning. Holly also
makes a good stock, but presents the same objection as the dogwood.
Cherry has few superiors, but it is now becoming a very scarce wood.
Sweet gum is getting to be quite extensively used for cheap guns, stained
to imitate either walnut or cherry. It has fine grain, and works very
well, the chief objection to it being that it is wonderfully inclined to
warp.
_Wood for Gun Stocks._—The wood for a gun stock should combine strength
and lightness, and at the same time it is desirable that it be easy to
cut. The fibres of the wood should be close and possess great cohesion
and should be little liable to split.
In this country black-walnut is generally selected for shot guns, and
either black-walnut or hard maple for rifles. The grain of the wood
should be straight at the small of the stock, which is the weakest
portion of the work. Between this and the end of the breech it little
matters how the grain runs. If there be curls, waves or a hard knot, let
it come about midway between the small and the end of the butt. As the
wood at this place is simply “rounded” it is easy to work it into shape,
as the shape given to it is such that any deviation of the fibres or
grain from a straight line can be shown to the best advantage, also at
this place there is less demand for strength of wood than at any other
part of the gun stock. Around the small it is very necessary that the
grain be straight and run in the direction of the shape given and also
continue straight until past the place where the locks are set in. A
little distance in front of the barrel breech it matters but little how
the grain runs, but if the fibres of the wood where the barrel is let in
run toward the breech it will be found to be easier to work out for the
reception of the barrel. For then as the tools are worked toward the
breech they are cutting _with_ the fibres or grain and not _against_ it.
But as the majority of guns are now half-stocked the distance to cut in
order to let in a barrel is so small that but little attention need be
paid to the grain at this spot.