Excursion further inland—Dense forest—An extensive
swamp—Parasitical plants—Fungi—The pitcher plant—Return to
Singapore—The wild Pine-apple—Use of that plant—Manufactory
of Pearl Sago—Visit to the Rajah of Johore—Interview
with his Highness—Excursion to St. John’s Island—Pulo
Panjang—Impenetrable jungle—New Harbour—Agar-agar.
After breakfast we continued our excursion much further inland, passing
through several extensive cleared spots, embellished by Gambir and Pepper
plantations; the residence of the proprietor, or a Gambir boiling-house,
appeared amidst a thicket of plantain, jack, and other trees. The grounds
near the residences of the planters were decorated by the crimson flowers
of the _Hibiscus rosa chinensis_,[70] the simple but delicate _Vinca
rosea_, or the perfumed jasmine distributed its agreeable fragrance
through the ambient air, all of which seemed favourites with the
expatriated Chinese. Around these cleared spots, a dense forest appeared
mingled with a profusion of rich vegetation, and a small, narrow pathway
would occasionally permit us to penetrate into its recesses. Trees and
shrubs, of infinite variety, gave a rich and beautiful appearance to
the wilderness, and enabled me to enrich my botanical collection with
numerous valuable specimens.
Occasionally, the noisy and mischievous monkeys would be seen gambolling
and springing from tree to tree, keeping up a continual chattering on
our approach; a gun fired at them produced great consternation among
this ludicrous, but active race; they bounded away (although none
had received injury) with great rapidity, screaming dreadfully, and
overwhelmed with horror and dismay, as if they had instinctive knowledge
of our destructive powers. One unfortunate monkey, the nearest to us,
and the one at whom the gun had been levelled, was so frightened, (and
certainly with good cause,) although he had not received any injury, that
in springing away to a tree, at some distance, he nearly missed it, and
hung for a few minutes by one arm, in an exposed and insecure situation,
upon a small twig, screaming most dreadfully. The branches crashed as the
monkey rapidly made his retreat, as his companions had just done before;
and his screams were heard for some time after he had buried himself in
the thick forest.
Upon many of the trees beautiful ferns of the genera _Achrosticum_,
_Pteris_, _Polypodium_, _Scolopendrium_, &c., abounded, mingled with
various curious and elegant parasitical plants; and upon the prostrate
trunks of the dead trees, which often lay across the forest, levelled by
the tempest or axe, differing varieties of fungi, glowing in red, golden,
or other colours, were mingled with lichens.
On our arrival at an extensive swamp, in which, however, the denseness
and beauty of the forest scenery had not in the slightest degree
diminished, the lofty trees and profuse tropical vegetation, afforded, by
their umbrageous coverings, a cool and agreeable shelter from the fervour
of a noon-day tropical sun, and rendered the excursion particularly
pleasant. The only passage over these swamps (which were occasioned by
numerous springs of very excellent fresh water) was by the trunks of
trees laid prostrate on a cleared but very narrow space, which would,
perhaps, be called a pathway, and extended for the distance of probably a
mile. Walking over these slippery, and often unsteady bridges, rendered
us often liable to some immersion of our lower extremities.
About these swamps, partially immersed in the crystal water, and
partially entwining to some height the slender trees in the vicinity,
a species of _Nepenthes_, or Pitcher plant, the Moniet, manko, or
Monkey-cup, of the Malays, (because they suppose those creatures to use
them as drinking cups,) abounded; a large cluster of small and colourless
cups surrounded the roots, as well as at certain parts of the stem. The
plant rose far above the stream, and entwined itself around the trees in
its vicinity, even to the height of twelve feet. The termination of the
leaves had the cup-like appendages of various sizes, filled with water,
in which several insects were immersed, the cups were ornamented over
their surface with striæ, and dots of a dark red colour; sometimes those
around the stems would be colourless, but varied occasionally, by being
greenish and small, and also covered like those at the extremity of the
leaf, with dark-red spots. I collected numerous specimens of this curious
and interesting plant.
The country had generally an undulating character, and our peregrinations
extended into dense forests, in which, among the larger productions of
the vegetable kingdom, small, delicate ferns were often abundantly seen,
enjoying the luxury of shade and moisture. Upon extensive cleared tracts,
covered by Gambir, Pepper, and other plantations, the neat habitations of
the planters, surrounded by fruit-trees and flowering shrubs, formed a
pleasing variety, from the grand and magnificent wildness of nature, to
the more cultivated improvements of art—beautiful in contrast.
Although the weather had been remarkably fine during the first part
of the day, we experienced a heavy shower of rain, which the Malays
accounted for by my having gathered and carried in my hand a large
quantity of the _Nepenthes_, or Pitcher plants, which, they said had
occasioned the rain to fall.[71]
There are said to be about two thousand Chinese inhabiting and
cultivating the soil in the interior of the island. They have
neatly-constructed, although not well-furnished habitations. They offered
us tea, (and it was poured out in the usual Lilliputian cups,) fruits,
rice cakes, and more substantial articles of diet; indeed they always
appeared ready to give us the best they had. After taking a rustic
dinner, we returned to the sampan by the same route we came. On the road
we observed a Malay lad collecting some plants, as he informed us, for
medicine: those I examined consisted merely of several grasses. He said
it was for a patient suffering under small-pox. The plants were to be
boiled, mixed with rice, and employed as an external application to the
body.
We rejoined our sampan at the Singapore creek, and arrived at the town
early in the evening.
Early one morning I visited a plantation of a Chinese, (in company with
Mr. Lorrain and the Rev. Mr. Darrah,) situated in the vicinity of the
settlement, for the purpose of witnessing the preparation of the fibres
from the leaves of the Ananas, or wild pine apple, which fibres, after
being prepared by a very simple process, are exported to China, and used
in the manufacture of linens, &c. The Chinese, who prepared the leaves
before us, said, he got one rupee and a half the catty for the fibre; it
was in texture, when manufactured, very similar to the New Zealand flax,
of a fine quality, and there is also some similarity in the manner in
which it is wrought. The leaves recently gathered (and the longest and
oldest are those which appear to be selected for the purpose) are laid
upon a board, and the epidermis is removed by a broad knife, not unlike
in form to a shoemaker’s paring knife; upon its removal from the upper
surface of the leaf, the long and beautiful fibres were seen lying upon
the lower and denser epidermis, running in a longitudinal direction; the
fasciculi of fibres were then readily detached either by the hand or by
being raised with the broad knife.
Some quantity of this material is annually exported to China, and at
Manilla a very delicate and beautiful fabric is made from the fibres
of this plant. The aloes likewise yield a fine fibre applicable for
various manufactures.[72] I am surprised that the New Zealand flax,
the fibres from the foliage of the pine-apple plant, and others, are
not used in our manufacturing kingdom, where, there is no doubt, they
would form a valuable addition to our raw materials for use in various
novel manufactures, either by themselves or in conjunction with other
materials. The first appearance of the pine-apple fibre would not cause
one to suppose it to be so remarkably fine as it really is; but, by
taking one coarse fibre, it is found to be capable of being subdivided
into threads of such delicacy as to be barely perceptible, and yet
sufficiently strong for any purposes.[73] This plantation abounded in
pepper plantations, as well as a great number of various kinds of fruit
trees.
Singapore is the principal, if not the only place in the East, where the
refining or manufacturing of the pearl sago is carried on; the process
is said to be a recent one, and the invention of the Chinese. According
to Crawford, it was first practised in Malacca about twenty years ago,
and was only introduced into Singapore in 1824. I availed myself of the
establishment of many of the manufactories of this article, in and about
the settlement, to visit one,[74] in which I found a number of Chinese,
all of whom were busily occupied in different stages of the operation.
The sago, or sagu, is imported in large quantities into Singapore from
Sumatra in native boats, who bring it at all seasons of the year; and a
few days since eighteen proas of different sizes arrived in the creek,
laden with this article alone in its raw state. The tree from which the
raw material is produced is named _Rumbiya_ by the Malays, and has been
too often described to render an account necessary here.[75]
The raw sago is imported in cone-shaped packages, each probably weighing
about twenty pounds; the mass is of rather soft consistence, and of a
dirty white colour, occasioned by being mingled with several impurities,
and the whole is enveloped in the leaves of the _Pandanus_ tree.[76] It
first undergoes several different washings in large wooden tubs, being
also strained, after washing, through cloth-strainers. When the raw
material has undergone sufficient ablutions, the masses which remain at
the bottoms of the vessels are collected, broken into pieces, and placed
upon platforms in the sun to dry; being broken into still smaller pieces
as the drying proceeds.
As soon as the pieces are sufficiently, although still not always
thoroughly, dry, they are pounded and sifted upon long benches, through
sieves made of the midrib of the leaves of the cocoa-nut palm, and
placed at certain distances in a longitudinal direction, so as to
cause the pulverised or rather broken masses of sago to pass through
it only of the required size. Having been passed through the sieve,
a certain quantity at each time is taken, placed into a large cloth,
tied to cross sticks, in the form of a bag, hanging by a cord from the
roof of the building; a Chinese is then employed in shaking the bag
backwards and forwards, by aid of one of the longest crossed sticks to
which it is attached, occasionally shaking up the sago powder; this is
continued constantly for about the space of ten minutes, when it is
turned out granulated. It is then placed in small wooden hand tubs,
looking beautifully and delicately white, but still so soft as to break
instantly, with the slightest pressure, under the fingers, and carried
to several Chinese, whose occupation is to make it undergo the drying
process in large iron pans over a fire. They are constantly stirring it
about when in the iron pan with a wooden instrument; it is then resifted
at another bench and rebaked, after which it is considered prepared. It
is then of a fine pure white colour, and being spread thinly over a long
and large bin, in the course of time it becomes both harder and of a
darker colour.
At this establishment there appeared to be about fifteen or sixteen
Chinese employed, and they said six or seven peculs could be manufactured
in one day. The pearl, or refined sago, is exported in large quantities
to Europe, our Indian empire, the Cape, &c. in wooden boxes, each
containing rather more than a pecul; ten boxes containing nearly fifteen
peculs. It is sold at two and a half to three dollars the pecul, which
includes the expense of boxes. A piggery is attached to this sago
establishment, the inhabitants of which must fare very well upon the
refuse of the sago washings.
One evening, accompanied by several gentlemen resident in the settlement,
I went to pay a visit to the rajah of Johore. During a former visit to
this settlement, in 1830, I had an interview with this exalted personage,
of whom at that time I penned the following description:—“Being near the
village of Kampong Glam, I observed a poor-looking bungalow, surrounded
by high walls, exhibiting effects of age and climate. Over the large
gateway which opened into the inclosure surrounding this dwelling were
watch-towers. On inquiry, I found this was the residence of the rajah of
Johore, who formerly included Singapore in his dominions. The island was
purchased of him by the British government, who now allow him an annual
pension. He is considered to have been formerly a leader of pirates; and
when we saw a brig he was building, it naturally occurred to our minds
whether he was about to resort to his old practices. We proposed visiting
this personage; and, on arriving at the gateway, were met by a peon,
who, after delivering our message to the rajah, requested us to wait a
few minutes, until his _Highness_ was ready. We did not wait long, for
the rajah soon appeared, and took his seat, in lieu of a throne, upon
the highest step of those which led to his dwelling. His appearance was
remarkable: he appeared a man of about forty years of age—teeth perfect,
but quite black, from the custom of chewing the betel constantly.
His head was large; and his shaven cranium afforded an interesting
phrenological treat. He was deformed; not more than five feet in height,
of large body, and short, thick, and deformed legs, scarcely able to
support the ponderous trunk. His neck was thick and short, and his head
habitually stooped; his face bloated, with the lower lip projecting, and
large eyes protruding, one of them having a cataractal appearance. He was
dressed in a short pair of cotton drawers, a sarong of cotton cloth came
across the shoulders in the form of a scarf, and tarnished, embroidered
slippers, and handkerchief around the head, (having the upper part
exposed,) after the Malay fashion, completed the attire of this singular
creature.
“As much grace and dignity was displayed in our reception as such a
figure could show, and chairs were placed by the attendants for our
accommodation. He waddled a short distance, and, notwithstanding the
exertion was so extraordinary as to cause large drops of perspiration
to roll down his face, conferred a great honour upon us by personally
accompanying us to see a tank he had just formed for fish, and with a
flight of steps, for the convenience of bathing. After viewing this, he
returned to his former station, when he reseated himself, with a dignity
of look and manner surpassing all description; and we took our departure,
after a brief common-place conversation.
“I remarked, that, on his approach, the natives squatted down, as a
mark of respect: a custom similar to which prevails in several of the
Polynesian islands.”
The buildings of his highness and followers were now in some degree
improved, being surrounded by a neat chunamed wall, and the entrance was
by a gateway of brick, which had been only recently completed. Since
my last visit his highness had caused a house to be constructed after
the style of the European residents at Singapore, and it was situated
exterior to the old boundary of his domain. We were ushered into the new
house, the rooms of which were furnished after the English style, with
wall-lamps, bookcase, (minus books,) tables, chairs, &c.; ascending to
the upper room, chairs were placed for our accommodation, and the punka
was caused to be moved to cool our frames. When we were all seated, a
yellow painted armed-chair was placed at the head of the room, as a regal
seat for his highness; his prime minister came to us, and, as we thought,
seemed puzzled for what so large a party of Europeans could require an
audience.
At last a messenger entered the room, and, squatting down near the
minister, whispered something to him, which it seemed was a desire that
we should adjourn from this to the old thatched residence of the Tuan
rajah. We adjourned, therefore; and, on arriving at the old residence,
the rajah, one of the greatest curiosities of the human race perhaps
ever seen, waddled, bending with infirmities, and seated his carcase in
the aforesaid yellow chair, which had been brought from the other house,
and placed in a suitable situation; and there, with his corpulent body
completely jammed between the arms of the chair, received us in a most
gracious and condescending manner, if such a figure really could look
gracious or condescending.
The creature was tame, and both mentally and physically more debilitated
than when I last saw him, in 1830: he appeared not even to possess the
intelligence of an orang-utan; he was attired in a dirty sarong around
his waist, and a loose baju, or jacket, exposing the corpulency of his
_delicate_ form. A Moorman’s cap ornamented a small portion of his
cranium; his look was listless, and without any expression: he appeared
every moment to be in danger of an attack of apoplexy. The gentlemen who
spoke the Malay language, on addressing him, received a grunt, or his
language was so unintelligible that his minister was obliged to repeat
the answers. All the attendants sat down upon their haunches in his
presence, out of respect.
On asking him his age, he replied (or rather his minister for him) by
demanding how old we thought he was; we certainly thought he had not
yet attained the age of reason. We were afterwards told his age was
not exactly known, but it was supposed the creature was fifty. As but
little could be made out of this pitiable object of humanity, we released
him from what certainly must have been to him a misery, by taking our
leave. On viewing the edifices in his enclosure, previous to departing,
we found the creature amused himself with building. Besides the new
residence and wall, he was erecting a residence and wall for himself,
neat and extensive in construction, and in something of a Chinese style
of architecture. This building was certainly wanting, for the old
thatched palace near it seemed ready to fall about his ears.
Society at Singapore is extremely agreeable to a visitor—for only as
one can I judge of it. Whether in intercourse among themselves they
are divided into the mechanical and aristocratical party, I cannot
say, having only heard a whisper to that effect. I have found, during
two visits to the little settlement, unbounded hospitality, and every
attention to my scientific inquiries, of course some taking more interest
in my researches than others.
At daylight one morning I set off, accompanied by the Rev. Mr. Darrah,
in a large sailing-boat, belonging to my friend Mr. Boustead, on an
excursion to visit St. John’s Island, or Pulo Sijang of the Malays, New
Harbour, &c.; we had but little wind, but contrived, with a numerous
Malay crew, to pull out soon to the first island, and landed on a fine
sandy beach. The only inhabitant was an old Malay, whose small thatched
habitation was surrounded by cocoa-nut, orange, guava, plantain, and
other tropical fruit-trees; and the beach was strewed with the plants and
bell-shaped purplish flowers of the _Ipomœa soladenella_, or sea-side
convolvulus, which grew in very great profusion.
The _Morinda citrifolia_ was here abundant, as also among the islands
forming the eastern Archipelago, where it is used as props for the
pepper-vines, or planted as a shade for the coffee-plants, and is named
by the natives Mangkudu.[77] The roots of this species are only mentioned
as being used as a dyeing material in the eastern Archipelago. The
Morinda is indigenous also to the Philippine Islands, where it is named
in the Tagalo Tambungaso. The natives of these islands, when a limb
is fractured, use the leaves of this shrub, anointed with oil, to lay
over the surface of the fractured limb; and it is considered by them of
benefit in allaying the inflammatory action.
This shrub attains the height of ten or twelve feet. At Tahiti, and most
of the Polynesian Islands, where it is also found indigenous, the inner
bark of the root is used for dyeing the native cloth of a fine yellow
colour: this is done by infusing the bark in water, into which the cloth
intended to be dyed is afterwards placed, and being suffered to remain
for some hours, is taken out and dried in the sun. At Tahiti the shrub
is called Nono, or Aari; at the Sandwich Islands it is called Noni. The
fruit is eaten at some of the Polynesian Islands in seasons of scarcity.
The island, which is elevated, was profusely covered with various
kinds of fruit-trees, growing in wild luxuriance, mingled with several
pretty flowering shrubs and plants, but spreading about in almost every
direction. The pine-apple plants, at this time in fruit, at different
stages of advancement towards maturity, and some decked with their
delicate blue flowers, were seen sometimes mixed with rich vegetation,
and at others kept cleared.
On the summit of the island, the old signal post, formed from the trunk
of a tree, remained, but the signal station had been removed to a more
elevated and convenient site upon the hill, called Blackan Mattee. The
view from the summit of this elevated island, was both extensive and
beautiful; the small islands near us were either covered by a wilderness
of wood, or else the jungle was cleared away. The pine-apple plants,
which grew in natural profusion, formed extensive plantations, and many
of the poorer class of Malays obtained a decent livelihood by taking them
in sampan loads, when ripe, for sale to Singapore. The distant verdant
islands also added to the beauty of the landscape, and small boats,
gliding with a gentle zephyr over the glassy surface of the water, or a
thatched habitation, nearly buried in a dense tropical vegetation, gave
an additional charm to the scene.
Having collected a few fine ripe pines, we resumed our little voyage
to Pulo Panjong, or Long Island, on which the elevated mount, called
Blackan Mattee is situated; we refreshed ourselves with some pines, but
our Malays, I observed, did not eat the pines until they had dipped them
previously in salt-water, by which they considered the fruit was rendered
more wholesome. I did not relish following their example, nor did I feel
any ill-effects, from what many have called my imprudence. The pines we
gathered contained a quantity of small brown flat seeds.
We landed on Pulo Panjong, among some neat Malay houses, near a sandy
beach. The thatched houses, towering cocoa-palms, plantain trees, with
rude plantations of sugar-canes, yams, &c., reminded me of many of the
islands forming the Polynesian Archipelago; and the appearance of the
half-naked Malays did not tend in any degree to dissipate the reality
of the comparison, but rather tended to confirm it. A kind of millet,
called Sukue, (_Pennisetum italicum_, Brown,) was also cultivated in
small patches by the Malays, and several magnificent trees of the _Bombax
pentandrium_, or silk cotton-tree, rose in towering beauty, mingled with
the cocoa-palm above, the dwellings. Only a very small portion of this
island was cleared, the remainder forming an almost impenetrable jungle,
a refuge only for monkeys and wild hogs. We found it very difficult to
penetrate the luxuriant and entangled branches of the pine-apple plant,
as we walked from one part of the island to another to join the boat, at
a very short distance.
Having rejoined our boat, we passed through the beautifully picturesque
strait, commonly named the New Harbour, one side of which is formed by
Pulo Panjong, or Long Island. The land about this harbour possesses
many sites eminently calculated for beautiful European residences, and
plantations, where one could gaze with delight, in peaceful retirement,
upon the tranquil scenes of nature, enjoying the refreshing sea breezes,
and be, at the same time, only a short distance from the bustle of a
commercial town. This place would not be advisable as a resort for
shipping, the present roadstead being by far preferable, as a ship would
be delayed entering this harbour or strait, by waiting for a fair wind,
and her departure also retarded by a similar cause. We entering on one
side, and taking our departure from the other, passed entirely through,
having an excellent view of the picturesque scenery of this lovely and
pleasing spot. We did not, from the extended length of our excursion,
return to Singapore until about noon.
There is a plant very abundant about some parts of Singapore, the _Cassia
alata_, which may be seen in profusion by the road-side, often glowing
with golden flowers; it is called G’ling gang, or Pako, g’ling, glang,
(Pako signifying a tree,) by the Malays, who state that they use it in
several diseases of the skin by rubbing the leaves of the plant upon the
diseased surface. Mr. Oxley (civil-surgeon at this settlement,) informs
me that he has used it with excellent effect in that troublesome herpetic
disease called “ring-worm;” and his method of application is by bruising
the leaves, mixing them with salt and lime-juice, and then using them as
an external application.[78]
A kind of white sea-weed, called _Agar, agar_, is found on the reefs
about Singapore, but the best is procured from Malacca, where it is
obtained in great abundance about the “Water islands,” in the vicinity of
that settlement; and after being collected it is picked and washed. It
is also brought to Singapore from Billiton, Bouton, &c.; the weed from
the former place sells at three dollars and a-half the pecul, and from
the latter at three dollars the pecul. This article is exported in large
quantities to China, where it is used for various purposes—as stiffening
linen, size for paper, &c. At Malacca and Singapore the finer kind makes
a beautiful transparent jelly, which is of course perfectly tasteless,
unless mixed with rose-water, sugar, and lime-juice, which render it an
excellent preserve, as well as an ornament for the dinner-table. There
is some trouble in refining it, as it requires frequent boilings before
it attains the requisite transparency.
At Singapore I observed some filaments from a plant, which was described
as growing abundantly at Malacca. These filaments display much
irritability on the application of warmth, and will twist and turn about
for a long period afterwards. They are named _Naga-pusing_ by the Malays,
which signifies “to turn or twist round.” Each filament is covered with a
very minute pubescence. They appear to be the awns probably of a species
of Anthistiria. They are used by the natives, in form of decoction, as an
external remedy in eruptive diseases.
On the 24th of November, (Sunday,) three shocks of an earthquake were
experienced at the island of Singapore; the first shock lasted three
minutes, and occasioned the lamps to swing, chairs to rock, &c.,
commencing at twenty minutes after eight, P.M. A slight shock was again
experienced at three A.M.; and another very slight shock at five A.M. of
the following morning.
An earthquake, it seems, was felt in India, at Ghazeepore, an account of
which I copy from the Bengal Hurkaru, of November 6th, 1833, extracted
from the Calcutta Courier:—
“_Ghazeepore, August 27th, 1833._—On the evening of the 26th of August,
two distinct shocks of an earthquake were sensibly felt here; the first
at eleven o’clock, the second at half-past eleven. The former lasted
about a minute, the latter about two minutes, and was so serious that
the furniture in the houses began to rock, and the doors to shake, as if
done by some strong man attempting to force them. The thermometer had
risen a good deal through the day, which was closer and more sultry than
usual. The natives say there has been nothing of the kind since 1820. It
is worth remarking that, in that year, an epidemic raged among the stud
horses, and carried off a great many. This year (June 1833) the dreadful
disease again broke out among them, and carried off about fifty noble
steeds. The obituary also for Europeans fills a much larger space than
usual, particularly as regards the children; and of cholera cases not a
few.”
In another paragraph in the same paper, is another extract. “A letter
from Monghyr reports that, on the 26th ult. a smart shock of an
earthquake was felt a little before nine o’clock; and that in the night
of the following day a large flight of locusts passed over the station:
the direction whence they came is not mentioned. We understand that a
flight of locusts was seen at Jubalpore about a fortnight before.”