CINTRA--THE TAGUS--LISBON--CADIZ--GIBRALTAR--SANDGATE AGAIN--OLD
FRIENDS--NEWS OF MY HEROINE.
Two days after our narrow escape, as the rising sun shed his bright rays
over the world of waters, we again made the land a little to the
northward of the Rock of Lisbon. We could see with our glasses the vast
convent and palace of Mafra, built by that debauched devotee, Don John
V. He had a notion, not uncommon at the present day, that, by rearing
edifices of brick and mortar, he might thus create for himself a few
stepping-stones towards heaven. The building shows a front of seven
hundred feet at least towards the sea, with a lofty portico in the
centre, and is capable of quartering all the troops in the kingdom.
When monks dwelt there they must have had ample space for exercise.
Soon afterwards we came under the rocky heights of Cintra. They
surround a perfect oasis, rising from the arid plains about Lisbon.
Every one knows Cintra on account of its Convention, not over creditable
to its executors; its convent cut out of the rock, and lined with cork
to keep the old monks warm; and its palace, built by the talented and
eccentric Beckford, now a mass of ruins. We just got a glimpse through
a break in the rocks of its cork, orange, and citron groves, surrounded
with sweet-scented shrubs.
Passing the Bay of Cascaes, a fresh breeze carried us by the white
circular Bugio Fort, standing on a rock at the mouth of the Tagus, and
with a fair tide we ascended the river.
In our company were a number of craft of all sorts, carrying flags of
all nations. Iron-moulded and weather-stained Indiamen, and Brazilian
ships surrounded by boats full of people, who had come out to welcome
relations and friends after a long absence; men-of-war, with their
polished sides and snowy, wide-spreading canvas; heavily laden and
heavy-looking English merchant-brigs, more esteemed for capacity than
for speed, like London aldermen; tub-shaped, yellow-sided Dutchmen,
laden with cargoes more formidable in appearance than in reality.
Instead of being bomb-shells or round-shot, proving, on nearer
inspection, to be Dutch cheeses, to be dreaded only by those of weak
digestion.
Contrasted with the heavy-looking foreign vessels were the Portuguese
rascas, employed chiefly in the coasting trade, with their graceful,
high-pointed, lateen sails, sharp bows, and rounded decks, and the
native schooners or hiates, with hulls not destitute of beauty, but
rigged with masts raking at different angles, and gaffs peaked at
unequal heights. There were also numberless sloops, and schooners, and
boats of various sorts, the most curious being the Lisbon fishing-boat,
shaped like a bean-pod, curving up at stem and stern, with a short
rounded deck at either end, and a single high lateen sail. A pilot whom
we received on board off the Bugio Fort took us close to the white tower
of Belem, and its Gothic church at the western end of Lisbon, and
brought us to an anchor among a crowd of other vessels off Blackhorse
Square. Lisbon rising on several hills from the waters of the
wide-flowing Tagus--here many miles across--is noted as a very
picturesque city; its white buildings glittering in the sun, crowned by
the dark frowning castle, and surrounded by suburbs intermixed with
gardens filled with richly-tinted orange-trees and flowers of many hues.
Gold and Silver Streets are handsome streets; and there are some fine
palaces, and the Opera House is a respectable edifice, and has,
moreover, a very good opera; but, though improved of late years, we were
told, in cleanliness, it is still a very dirty city, and the lower
orders have a marked inferiority to those we saw at Oporto. They are a
darker, smaller race, with much Moorish blood in their veins, without
any mixture of the nobler Gothic stream from which the inhabitants of
the north have sprung. They are the fellows who have gained for the
Portuguese the character of being assassins and robbers, which certainly
those in the north do not deserve. However, a strong government,
liberal institutions, and a street police have pretty well put a stop to
such proceedings even there.
The best account I have ever read of Lisbon and its people, as they were
before the French Revolution changed affairs not a little in most of the
countries of Europe, is to be found in Beckford's "Visit to the Convents
of Alcobaca and Batalha," and in his "Tour to Italy and Portugal."
There is a rich, racy humour in his descriptions, which has seldom been
surpassed. At one of the convents a dance is proposed for the
entertainment of the illustrious strangers, and while a few act as
musicians, the greater number of the oleaginous, obese monks tuck up
their frocks, and begin sliding and whirling and gliding about with as
much gusto as a number of school-girls at play. But we must be off to
sea again.
We lionised Lisbon, and paid a visit to Cintra, but as no adventure
occurred worthy of note to any of our party, I will not enter into
details.
Once more the "Frolic" breasted the waves of the Atlantic, her course
being for fair Cadiz. On the third day after leaving the Tagus, we
dropped our anchor off that bright, smiling city. Its flat-roofed
houses give it somewhat of an eastern look, but it is far cleaner than
any eastern city. The houses are built after the Moorish fashion, and
very like the residences excavated at Pompeii. The colouring of the
outside is more in accordance with the taste of the luxurious Romans in
the days of their degeneracy, than with that of the ancient Greeks,
which made them satisfied with softer hues; while the interior, on the
other hand, is as cool and simple as the purest taste can make it. No
sooner had we furled sails than all hands were eager to go on shore, to
have a glimpse at the often talked of mantilla-wearing, fair, flirting,
fascinating Gaditanas. The gig was lowered, and on shore we went.
We were not disappointed in the appearance of Cadiz. The streets are
narrow, that the sun of that torrid clime may not penetrate into them,
and those only who have lived in a southern latitude can appreciate the
luxury of having a cool, shady road in which to walk. Verandas in front
of every window reach nearly half-way overhead; they are closely barred,
and sometimes glazed, so that no impertinent eye can penetrate their
recesses. These verandas are full of flowers, and overhung with ivy or
other luxuriant creepers.
The fronts of the houses are ornamented with various colours, as red,
blue, yellow, green, and other tints; while the separation between each
house and each floor is marked by lines of red, thus giving the whole
street a singularly bright and cheerful appearance.
The gateway is the pride of a Cadiz house. Many we passed were very
handsome. It was pleasant to look through them into the interior, where
the column-surrounded patios with cool, sparkling fountains in their
centres, and shrubs and flowers of every hue, were indeed most
refreshing to the senses. Every house is a square, with one or more
patios in the centre, their only roof the bright blue sky. Into this
court of columns all the rooms of the house open. Shade and coolness
are the great things sought for in that clime.
We wandered up and down the narrow streets till we began to wish that
some one would take compassion on us and ask us in; but nobody did, and
our only satisfaction was the belief that we created a mighty sensation
in the bosoms of numberless lovely damsels whose bright eyes we saw
flashing at us through the thickly-barred jalouses.
"Ah, my good fellows, but you did not see their small noses, thick lips,
and swarthy skins," observed that unsentimental fellow, Bubble, thus
cruelly depriving us of the only consolation we enjoyed. The fact was
that at that early hour of the day no one goes abroad who can stay at
home, except, as the Spaniards say, dogs and Englishmen, putting the
canine tribe before the biped. Fatigue drove us into a cafe, where we
took some refreshment, and in the evening we were somewhat repaid by
watching the crowds of bewitching damsels and gay cavaliers, who
sauntered forth to enjoy the cool air, and each other's conversation.
Cadiz is joined to the mainland by a narrow strip of sand, deprived of
which it would be an island. Opposite to it, across the bay, is Port
St. Mary's, the port of Xeres, where the sherry wine is embarked.
The next day we visited that place to taste some of its celebrated
wines. We were much captivated with some deliciously dry Mansanilla,
inferior as it is in flavour, however, to the still more valuable
Amontillado.
But interesting as was our visit to Cadiz to ourselves, attractive as
were its far-famed dames, and delicious as were its wines, my readers
will undoubtedly rather hear some of the more stirring events of our
cruise.
Away, away, once more we went, bounding over the blue ocean. We were,
however, destined not to find ourselves so soon inside the Mediterranean
as we expected. A dead calm came on, and for many hours we lay
sweltering under a sun not much less fierce than that of the tropics.
It was very tantalising to remain thus almost in sight of the entrance
of that classic sea we all wished to behold, and yet not be able to get
there. Once within the influence of that strange current which from age
to age has unweariedly flowed into that mighty basin, and yet never has
filled it, we should have advanced with sufficient rapidity. Another
whole day tried our patience, and Hearty had begun to declare that,
after all, he thought the Mediterranean could not be worth visiting,
when, on the morning of the third day, a breeze sprung up, and the
cutter began to slip through the water towards the Straits.
The chief strength of the current is in the centre, far out of reach of
shot and shell from the shore on either side. I mention this because
many people have a notion that the fortress of Gibraltar defends the
entrance to the Straits. The fact is, that the narrowest part is seven
and a quarter miles wide; but that narrowest part we passed through at a
distance of fifteen miles from Gibraltar, before we reached it. We did
not, indeed, see the Rock before we had passed the Narrows.
The distance from the Rock to Ceuta, opposite to it on the African
coast, is twelve miles.
Gibraltar is formed by a tongue of land three miles long and one broad,
with a sandbank joining it to the main, and terminating with a high
promontory. No one ever expected to make it defend the Straits, even
before steamers were introduced. The heaviest guns are turned towards
Spain; at the same time the sea-side is made inaccessible by scarping.
Below the Rock is a belt of level land, on which the modern town is
built. The Rock has the form of a lofty ridge with three elevations on
it, one at each end, and one in the centre. That in the centre is the
highest, and has the flagstaff planted on it. When we landed, we went
through the wonderful galleries excavated in the Rock. These
excavations have been going on since the time of the Moors, who, I
believe, made by far the largest number of them.
They were wonderful fellows, those Moors. I have always felt a vast
respect for them when I have beheld their remains in the south of Spain.
The reason of their success is, that they were always in earnest in
whatever they undertook. However, I don't want to talk here about the
Moors. Gibraltar is a very curious place, and well worth a visit; with
its excavated galleries, its heavy guns, its outward fortifications, its
zig-zag roads, its towers and batteries, its narrow streets, its crowded
houses, its ragged rocks, and its troops of monkeys, the only specimens
of the family of simia, which reside, I believe, in a wild state in
Europe. Gibraltar, in reality, from its geological formation, belongs
rather to Africa than to Europe, it being evidently cut off from the
African mountains, and having no connection with those of Europe.
It is a question for naturalists to solve how the monkeys came there--I
don't pretend to do so. We brought up in Gibraltar Bay, where the yacht
lay very comfortably, and so do now our men-of-war. Should, however, a
war break out with Spain, they would find the place too hot to hold
them, as the bay is completely commanded by the Spanish coast, where
batteries could speedily be erected, nor could the Rock afford the ships
any protection.
Now I have talked enough about Gibraltar; I'll however just describe it,
like a big tadpole caught by the tail as it was darting away towards
Africa. We spent some pleasant days there, and were very hospitably
treated by some military friends in the garrison. Malta, the Isles of
Greece, and the Levant, was our destination. I did not fail to make
inquiries respecting Sandgate; and, curious enough, I fell in with a
merchant who had in his youth fought in the Greek War of Independence.
He told me that a youth of that name, and who in every way answered
Sandgate's description, had come out from England and joined the patriot
forces. He was a brave, dashing fellow, but most troublesome from his
unwillingness to submit to any of the necessary restraints of
discipline, and utterly unprincipled. He had, however, plenty of
talent, and managed to ingratiate himself with some of the Greek chiefs,
though the more respectable, as did the English Philhellenes, stood
aloof from him.
"The truth is," said my friend, "many of those Greek chiefs had been
notorious pirates themselves, and I have no doubt Sandgate learned his
trade from them."
"I suspect very strongly that the man you describe and Sandgate are one
and the same person," I remarked. "It is curious that I should so soon
have gained a clew to him."
The next day I again met my friend. "I have some further account of
Sandgate to give you," said he, taking me by the button; "he'll give
some little trouble before his career is closed, I suspect. My Smyrna
correspondent is here, and he tells me that he knew of Sandgate's being
there, and of his selling his yacht. He served with me in the war, and
knew him also: consequently, when he made his appearance he kept his eye
upon him. He traced him on board a vessel, in which he went to one of
the Greek islands. From thence he crossed to a smaller island owned by
a chief who had once been a notorious pirate, and was strongly suspected
of still following the same trade in a more quiet way. There he lost
sight of him; but several piracies had been committed during the spring
by a craft which it was suspected had been fitted out in the island in
question."
"We certainly have in a most unexpected way discovered a clew to Mr
Sandgate's whereabouts and course of life," I remarked. "It would
almost read like a romance were it to be put into print."
"Oh, we have had many heroes of that description from time to time in
the Mediterranean," replied my friend. "There was that fellow Delano,
who was hung at Malta a few years back, he was an Englishman--or a
Yankee, I believe rather. How many piracies he had committed I do not
know before he was found out, but at last he tried to scuttle a brig,
which did not go down as he thought she had, so happily his intended
victims escaped and informed against him. He was captured by a
man-of-war's boat's crew, and he and his followers were carried in
chains to Malta. Then there was a very daring fellow, a Greek, Zappa by
name, who commanded a brig, and on one occasion attacked an Austrian
man-of-war which he believed had treasure on board, and took her. Then
there has been no end of Greek pirates of high or low degree.
Gentlemanly cut-throats, princes and counts with fleets under their
command, down to the disreputable owners of small boats which lie in
wait behind headlands to rob unwary merchantmen who cannot defend
themselves. Oh! the Mediterranean has reason to be proud of the
achievements of its mariners from the times of the pious Aeneas down to
the present day."
From all I heard of Sandgate, indeed, I felt more and more thankful that
Miss Manners had so fortunately escaped from his power.
Nothing worthy of note occurred to us during our very pleasant stay at
Gibraltar. The day before we had arranged to leave the place, who
should we fall in with but Jack Piper, a lieutenant in the navy, and a
friend and old messmate of Tom Mizen's. "Why, I thought we had left you
at Plymouth!" I exclaimed as I wrung his hand.
"So you did," he answered; "but I had been ordered to come out here and
to join my ship. You know old Rullock, Mizen's uncle. He had just
before commissioned the `Zebra' brig, for this station, and as she was
the first vessel to sail, I got a passage in her. We had a fast run,
and they only put me on shore here yesterday while she has gone to
Malta. We had Mrs and Miss Mizen on board, and Mrs Mizen's niece,
Miss Susan Simms" (Jack, I knew, rather affected Miss Susan, and he
looked very conscious as he mentioned her name). "Very nice girl," he
continued; "so kind of her, too, to come out just at an hour's notice to
take care of her cousin, Miss Rullock, you know. You haven't heard,
perhaps, that they are rather alarmed about Miss Laura. Caught a cold,
somewhat ugly symptoms. Think her consumptive, so it was judged best to
bring her out to spend a winter at Malta, and as her uncle was coming,
the opportunity was a good one."
"Ah! this news will be matter of interest to Hearty," thought I. "We
shall now see whether his feelings for Miss Mizen had any root, or
whether he was affected by a mere passing fancy."
"Poor girl! I am sorry to hear of her illness," said I aloud. "Malta
is as good a place as she could come to, and I hope the change will do
her good. We shall see her there, I dare say. Have you any commands
for the ladies?"
"Say I hope that my ship will be there before long," answered Piper,
absolutely blushing through the well-bronzed hue of his cheek.
He had been appointed as first lieutenant of the "Thunder,"
sloop-of-war. She was expected at the Rock every day. Jack Piper was
not very dissimilar in appearance and manner to Porpoise, and he was the
same sort of good-natured, frank, open-hearted fellow--just the man to
do a gallant, noble action, and not to say a word about it, simply
because it would not occur to him that it was any thing out of the way.
There are plenty of such men in the service, and England may be proud of
them.
On quitting Piper I went on board the yacht, where we had agreed to
assemble in the evening, to be ready for a start by daybreak. Should
Hearty not have heard of the "Zebra's" touching at the Rock, I resolved
to say nothing about the matter. If he really was in love with Miss
Mizen, I might chance to spoil him as a companion, and if he did not
care about her, there was no harm done.