STATE OF GRAHAM'S TOWN.

Everything in Africa is in extremes. The air is at one moment perfectly

calm, the next wild with terrific storms. The sky so sweetly serene at

noon, before half an hour passes is often darkened by clouds which

shroud the land as with a pall. For months, the long droughts parch the

earth, the rivers may be forded on foot, the flocks and herds pant for

refreshing waters and green herbage. Suddenly, "a cloud no bigger than

a man's hand" appears on the horizon, and lo! the elements rage and

swell, thunder booms upon the air, darkness covers the land, the arrows

of the Almighty dart from the angry heavens, striking death and terror

wheresoever they fall. From the far desert an overpowering torrent of

sand comes sweeping on, obscuring the air, and making its way into your

very house, in such profusion that you may trace characters in its

dry-depths on the window-sill. The skies open, the floods descend, the

rivers burst their bounds, trees are uprooted from the saturated earth,

and through the roof of your dwelling the rain beats heavily, the walls

crack, the plaster falls, the beams that support the thatch groan and

creak with "melancholy moan," the voices of angry spirits seem to howl

and shout around you, the poor birds on frightened wing wheel past your

windows, the cattle disturb you with their lowing, the dogs howl, and

the unearthly tones of the Kaffir or Fingo herdsman's song are no

agreeable addition to the wild scene stirring before you. The tempest,

however, subsides as suddenly as it arose, the voices of the

storm-spirits die away in the distance over the mountain-tops, the dark

pall of clouds is rent by a Mighty Hand, the swollen rivers rush on,

bearing evidences of devastation, but subsiding at last into a more

measured course; the sun lights up the valleys and the hill-sides, the

air is clearer, the sky brighter than ever; and, but for the history of

devastation and oftentimes of death, and the knowledge that for weeks

the country will be subject to these violent convulsions of nature, the

terrors of the tempest would soon be forgotten.

Such is the climate of South Africa. Lovely indeed it is for part of

the year; for the rest experience is necessary to teach you whether it

be agreeable or not. At one time of the day, I have known the

thermometer 120 degrees; at sunset, it has been so cold that a fire has

been necessary; nay, I have known it 92 degrees in a room with the air

kept out at noon, and at six I have wanted a shawl, or cloak, during my

walk. In the morning, you are scorched and blistered by the hot wind,

while the vegetation is withering under your feet, and at night you must

wrap yourself well up, and put your feet in shoes "impervious to the

dew," and yet experience shows that it is perfectly healthy. [Note 1.]

On the 25th of March we received a report in Graham's Town, that the

Kaffirs were pouring into the colony. It was afterwards ascertained

that the Kaffirs were only awaiting our threatened blow as the signal

for their work of devastation. They were well aware of all our

movements, the numerical strength of our army, and the comparative

security into which the farmers had been lulled by Sandilla's message,

or rather by the acceptance of that message; and we soon received

evidence of the Kaffir's proximity to Graham's Town, by constant

robberies of cattle, and skirmishes between themselves and the Fingo and

Hottentot herds.

The 22nd of April was the first day of serious inconvenience to

ourselves. Three of us, our husbands being with their divisions at

different stations, were assembled with our children, as was our custom,

to spend the evening together. How often had we paced the verandah,

anxiously watching the lurid sky, red with the fires of devastation, and

listening to the continued and heavy volleys of musketry between the

herds and savages on the hills above us! We never permitted ourselves

to think of an attack on the town; and, as the Kaffirs seldom risk their

lives or spend their powder without a chance of plunder in return, we

considered our lives safe, since the cattle could be swept away from the

outskirts without venturing into the town. On the night of the 22nd,

however, the frightened servants rushed into the sitting-room,

exclaiming that the Kaffirs were sweeping down the hills in all

directions; and that, as the house was roofed with shingles, it was

likely it would be fired by the brand of the savages.

Behold us, then, preparing for our pilgrimage across the open,

undefended square of the Drostdy ground [Note 2]. But that we were full

of anxieties for our husbands in the field, we should have laughed in

the very face of apparent danger. Ill defended as the town was, we

could not believe that the Kaffirs could have passed the picquets on the

hills unnoticed, and accustomed to exaggerated reports, the cry of

"Kaffirs!" was no longer so alarming to us personally as it might have

been had we heard it before our terrors for the absent had deadened our

thoughts of self. The cry was raised, however, and we were warned to

seek the shelter of the new barracks, built of stone, and roofed with

zinc.

The lady of the house roused one sleeping child from its bed, and

dressed it hastily, but with perfect calmness, while her boy danced

about and tumbled head over heels with delight at the prospect of "such

fun!" The young ladies of the party, my own girl among them, collected

what they considered most valuable, their books, work-boxes, trinkets, a

guitar, a doll in a polka dress, a monkey, and their dogs; and the wife

of one in command at Fort Peddie thrust money, jewels, and papers into a

box, which she carried under her arm. Ere we were ready for the _trek_,

the servants appeared with _their_ "valuables," the hoards and savings

of many years. Oh, the confusion of tongues on that night, as we passed

through the Square! Exclamations in Dutch, Irish, Fingo, broad Scotch,

and provincial English, assailed us on all sides; children cried and

laughed alternately, women screamed, Hottentots danced, and sang, and

swore, the oxen attached to the waggons which had accompanied the 90th

uttered frightful roars, and muskets were going off in all quarters of

the town. Onwards we sped; there was sufficient light to see the tents

of the 90th, who had only arrived the day before, standing up in regular

order. We made direct for the line between the tents, when lo! they

vanished; they were struck to the ground as if by magic, and lay as flat

as linen on a bleaching-green. The young girls could not help laughing

as they stumbled over the tent-pegs.

We reached the barrack-rooms appropriated to my use. If the air was

"full of noises," much more so was the house. In one room were officers

loading pistols as merrily as if they were going pigeon-shooting; in the

kitchens, the men-servants were unslinging the loaded muskets from the

wall; and up and down the passage stalked dragoon soldiers, fully

accoutred, and ready for the saddle at a moment's notice, their horses

standing in the yard, neighing with impatience; while we ladies, girls,

and children, with three or four officers, sat waiting the result of the

hubbub with the doors open; and the townspeople occasionally rushing in

with affrighted faces. Had the Kaffirs been at all aware of their own

strength, and our defenceless state, they might, with very little loss

on their side, have burned and pillaged the town, murdered many of the

inhabitants, and possessed themselves of the magazine. We had not two

hundred soldiers, and most of these were of the 20th Regiment, who had

just arrived from a ten years' sojourn in Ceylon, and were therefore

little fitted for active service. That the enemy meditated an attack,

there is no doubt; but the reports of their advance proved exaggerated,

and at midnight it was ascertained that they had swept off what cattle

they could from the outskirts, and set fire to the neighbouring farms.

We had very certain testimony of this from the windows, for the glare of

these burning homesteads of the industrious settlers illumined the sky,

and the hills all round were bright with wreaths of flame from the bush.

We were all too much excited to obtain much repose, and at daylight the

next morning the warning bugles of the 90th gave note of preparation for

their departure, with part of the 91st, for Fort Beaufort, with supplies

and ammunition. Great doubts were entertained as to whether this long

train of waggons, with its slender guard, would be permitted to pass

unmolested through the Ecca Valley, twelve miles from Graham's Town, the

road winding along the edge of a precipice, and being commanded by a

steep krantz. From this narrow road, where only one waggon at a time

can pass with safety, you look down on a bush so dense that hundreds of

savages might be concealed there; and, on the opposite side, tremendous

mountains, fit haunts for the savage, or the wild beast, slope down,

overshadowing the valley with awful gloom; while the mocking echoes give

back the sharp slash of the waggoner's whip, or the crack of the

traveller's rifle, with a strange precision.

Every precaution was taken to ensure a safe passage through this defile,

and a slow match was so placed in the ammunition-waggon that, had the

Kaffirs poured suddenly upon the party in such numbers as to render it

impossible to save all the waggons, the ammunition was to be left in

their hands as an instrument of destruction. Happily, the party met

with no obstruction; but all the day long we were listening in

expectation of the explosion in the Ecca. Meanwhile, farms still blazed

around us, the hills were obscured by smoke, and, as night approached,

fresh rumours arose of "Kaffirs close to the town." About ten o'clock,

we were again warned of danger; our first notice was the blast of the

bugle sounding the "alarm" close to our windows. Fatigued with the

watching and excitement of the previous night, we had retired early to

rest. We were up in an instant. Lucifers were at a premium that night,

I am sure: great was the smell of brimstone--fit atmosphere for the

expected foe. Still, we had become too much accustomed to the cry of

"Kaffirs!" to feel great alarm; and, to say truth, there was something

in being within stone walls, and under a roof on which the brand could

take no effect.

Hark!--the gun booms from the battery above. What a volume of sound

rolls through the heavy air! Another blast from the bugle, taken up and

echoed back by others! Another sound of cannon from a piece of

artillery, within three hundred yards of us! How the windows rattle!--

how the roof shivers! We are all up and astir--the children laugh, and

cry, and look bewildered--and the monkey hides whatever is most wanted--

and the doors fly open, and there are--not Kaffirs--only terrified women

and children seeking refuge.

I was in some alarm, from the dread of muskets going off in the hands of

the people unaccustomed to the use of them; but had less fear of Kaffirs

than on the previous night, as we had no cattle in the Drostdy Square,

and it is for that booty alone that they will risk life recklessly; so

some of us went up stairs, and sat between the windows, and the servants

placed mattresses against the shutters below.

Then there was a gathering together of all the fighting men that could

be collected, and a sorry show they made in the way of numbers. A heavy

fire was kept up along the hills, and still the farms and bush blazed

on; but no Kaffirs entered the town, so we retired a little after

midnight, the younger members of the party deeply regretting that we had

been alarmed for nothing. No Kaffirs! What a pity after such a

commotion! In such stirring times, the young, though naturally

kind-hearted, have little thought for the ruined settler, the miserable

widow, the motherless parents, the devastated land.

Some cattle had been fought for, and captured by the Fingoes on the

Bathurst road, about two miles from Graham's Town. Hence the alarm!

The murder of Mr Norden, which I have before alluded to, was the next

event of painful importance, and the inhabitants of the town maintained

a vigilant and defensive position until the arrival of Colonel

Somerset's division, on the 29th. Colonel Somerset's presence, with his

serviceable band, inspired the settlers of Lower Albany with confidence,

and he remained scarcely two days for rest and refreshment of men and

horses, ere he again started for the bush. He had made such

arrangements at Beaufort as had enabled him to move without waggons,

those heavy incumbrances to troops in South Africa, and wisely diverging

from the Ecca pass, had completely eluded the Kaffirs. He again

prepared to start, equally unencumbered, to clear the eastern side of

the heathen marauders. Immense mischief had been already dome, but

there were yet many settlers whose lives and property awaited succour,

and Colonel Somerset led his division to a point where they could work

at once, and with the best effect. The force consisted of 150 of the

Cape Corps, a detachment of the 7th Dragoon Guards, parties of the

Cradock and Albany Burghers, under their respective commandants, and two

light field-pieces, under Captain Browne and Lieutenant Gregory, R.A.,

making altogether a force off 800 men. The Cape Corps cheered heartily

as they defiled through Graham's Town, taking the road to Woest's Hill,

it being intended to occupy the old position of Major Frazer, Cape

Regiment, at Lombard's post, so celebrated in Kaffir warfare, and by

which great part of the eastern division of the colony might be

protected.

Volumes might be filled were I to detail half the miseries to which the

colonists had been subjected during the operations of the troops in

Kaffirland. None but those who have experienced it, can have an idea of

the nature of the foe to which they were exposed.

The Kaffir, at the first onset, is perhaps less ferocious than cunning,

and more intent on serving his own interests by theft than on taking

life from the mere spirit of cruelty; but once roused, he is like the

wild beast after the taste of blood, and loses all the best attributes

of humanity. The movement of a body of these savages through the land

may be likened to a "rushing and a mighty wind." On, on they sweep!

like a blast; filling the air with a strange _whirr_--reminding me, on a

grand scale, of a flight of locusts. An officer of rank, during the

Kaffir war of 1835, was riding with a body of troops across the country,

when suddenly his attention was arrested by a cloud of dust; then a dark

silent mass appeared, and, lo! a multitude of beings, more resembling

demons than men, rushed past. There were no noises, no sound of

footsteps, nothing but the shiver of the assegais, which gleamed as they

dashed onwards. The party of soldiery was too small to render an

advance prudent, and though it is not improbable the Kaffirs observed

the detachment of troops, from which they were distant scarcely half a

mile, they did not stop on their way. They were bent on some purpose,

and would not turn aside from it.

The same officer described to me a scene which had struck him

particularly when, on an expedition far up the country, many years ago.

His regiment was bivouacked along the ridge of a chain of hills during

the night. At dawn, he rose to reconnoitre, and, looking below, beheld,

as he imagined, an immense herd of cattle. As the sun advanced,

lighting up the valley, a solitary figure stepped out from the supposed

herd, and springing on an ant-heap, waved an assegai, and probably

spoke, though nothing could be heard. Each shield of bullock's hide

then gave up its armed warrior, who had been sleeping beneath its

shelter; the wild chant of the Fingoes filled the valley with strange

harmony; and, in a few minutes a phalanx was formed, in readiness for

the approach of the troops, to whom these Fingoes were attached as

allies. They have well repaid the white man's good will.

Although the Fingoes were the slaves of the Kaffirs till Sir Benjamin

D'Urban, the good, the true, the generous, and the brave, released them

from their bondage; and, although the Kaffirs to this day denominate

them their "dogs," the Fingoes are in many respects their superiors; and

during this war we had ample opportunity of judging of their patience,

bravery, and fidelity. The mode of warfare of these two tribes, for

they cannot be considered distinct nations, is in some respects

different. The Kaffir goes forth to battle besmeared with red clay,

simply arrayed with his kaross, armed with his musket and assegai, and

accoutred with his pouch and sack, for ammunition, plunder, and

provisions.

The appearance of a body of Fingoes, if less terrific, is more imposing.

Their heads are ornamented with jackals' tails, ostrich plumes, beads,

wolves' teeth, etc. Across their shoulders is flung a skin, and around

their waist is girt a kilt of monkeys' tails. The chief, as among the

Kaffirs, wears a tiger-skin kaross, and their rain-makers, who are at

once wizards, doctors, and councillors, are most fearfully grotesque in

their costume.

The Fingoes also bear enormous shields, which they use with great

dexterity, for defence and excitement, sometimes beating time on them as

on a drum; they are also much more ready to meet an enemy on an open

plain than the Kaffirs. The latter on seeing an enemy, raise a hideous

yell of defiance, and utter the most frightful sounds in imitation of

lions, tigers, jackals, wolves, snakes, etc, by way of intimidating

their assailants, before the attack commences. A Kaffir meditating a

death-blow with his assegai is a terrific object. Now, he advances, his

eyes starting from their sockets, his brilliant teeth glittering between

his huge lips, which emit these horrible imitations, his head thrown

back, his whole body writhing and trembling in the excitement of his

anxiety to take a steady aim, his arm upraised, and his spear poised.

The very sight of him is sufficient to inspire the bravest with dread,

for such encounters cannot be considered as fair fights between man and

man. The Kaffirs, too, have all the cunning of the wild beast, and we

may be thankful in having the Fingoes as our allies in tiny contest with

them; for, while they are sufficiently civilised and instructed to

co-operate with our troops, they are of infinite use in herding cattle

and defending passes. They will lie down on the watch for hours, and

imitate the cries of animals to attract the attention of the Kaffirs,

who find themselves encountered by creatures of their own mould, instead

of the wolf, or the jackal, they expected. Sometimes, on the other

hand, the Kaffirs will encircle the Fingoes, and dance round them

yelling frightfully; now roaring like a lion, now hissing like a

serpent; but it is seldom that the Kaffirs conquer the Fingoes, unless

the latter are inferior in numbers.

I prefer citing Colonel Somerset's despatch to the Civil Commissioner of

Albany, to giving any account of my own of the sufferings of the

colonists at this period. My own detail could only be gathered from

hearsay evidence, and in this I might be misled. The dispatch no one

can dispute; it is as follows--

McLuckie's Farm, Kariega Kiaa, 4th May, 1846.

"Sir,

"Having moved with the troops under my orders to this part of Albany on

the 1st instant, in order to afford protection to the inhabitants

against the Kaffir tribes, and knowing your anxiety, as well as that of

the public, for their welfare, I feel it necessary to acquaint you that

I arrived here about 7 o'clock, p.m., on the 1st, having observed on my

route that the whole of the Kowie Bush was thickly infested with

Kaffirs. I moved a patrol early in the morning of the 2nd to Mr Dell's

farm on the Kasonga, where I found several families collected in a great

state of anxiety, the Kaffirs having carried off their cattle, amounting

to about 2,000 head, and the people being exhausted with fatigue and

watching. Learning that the people at Theopolis were in great distress

for ammunition, I communicated with that station from Mr Dell's. In a

short time the minister, Mr Taylor, came over to me, saying that his

station had been attacked several nights successively, and his people

were entirely without ammunition, and quite exhausted, and that unless I

could assist him that night, they had no hope, and that there were five

hundred persons who must fall a sacrifice to the Kaffirs, who had stated

they would attack them again that night. I detached a Serjeant and

twelve men of the Cape Mounted Rifles with Mr Taylor, and supplied him

with a hundred rounds of ammunition as an immediate help. I also left

at Mr Dell's a party of twelve Burghers, as a reinforcement for the

night. Having thus afforded some relief to these suffering people, I

returned home, and at nightfall I sent another detachment of twenty men,

Cape Mounted Rifles, under Ensign Harvey, with a further supply of

ammunition, and thus secured these people for the night.

"At daybreak the next morning, I was fortunate enough to fall in with a

large body of Kaffirs, who appeared to have established themselves in

the Kowie Bush. I attacked them with the troops, and punished them

severely, which I hope will keep them quiet for a day or two. I then

proceeded to Theopolis, and, having communicated with that station, I

arranged with the missionaries to bring them all here this day, and hope

to forward their families to Graham's Town at an early hour to-morrow

morning, together with some other families who are here in a state of

destitution, the whole of their houses, property, and all they

possessed, having been set on fire by the Kaffirs as soon as they saw

the troops advancing. These latter people I beg to recommend to the

Government to be put on rations, and have some lodging allotted to them.

"The troops under my command having been detached by the

Lieutenant-Governor for the protection of this part of the Colony, have

been, under Providence, the means of saving the valuable lives of many

helpless families. Had they arrived forty-eight hours later, all must

have fallen a sacrifice to these ruthless savages, who were only waiting

to complete the work of destruction by murdering the females and

children, [Note 3], to establish themselves in their houses. Having

been defeated in this by the opportune arrival of the troops, they set

fire to the buildings and hay-stacks, and all their property. From Mr

McLuckie's 1,800 head of cattle have been carried off, from Mr Dell's

about 2,000, from Theopolis 1,400, besides the total destruction of

almost all their hay-crops.

"It now only remains for me to express my admiration of the gallant

stand that has been made by the inhabitants here for the protection of

their families. Although surrounded by hundreds of the savage enemy,

they have stood forward like men; and, although seeing their homesteads

in flames, and all at the mercy of these barbarians, have never

flinched, but have, even with cheerful countenances, supported their

characters as men and Britons in defence of all most dear to them; and,

if they had not done so, the assistance the troops have been able to

afford would have come too late. I am also indebted to Messrs. Fuller

and Ferreira, of Graham's Town, for their assistance in patrolling and

in escorting the missionaries and their families. There is yet much to

be done; several families on the right bank of the Kowie yet require

protection, hundreds of Kaffirs being in the Kowie Bush for a distance

of twenty miles; but I cannot hold out any immediate hope that I can

cross over into the Bathurst district, either to afford protection, or

to intercept the cattle that the Kaffirs are driving into Kaffirland.

Probably, the Lieutenant-Governor will see fit to detach the cavalry

from Fort Peddie to that district.

"I request that you will communicate the contents of this dispatch to

His Honour the Lieutenant-Governor, as I am so pressed for time that I

cannot forward one to him to-day.

"I have, etc,

"H. Somerset, Colonel,

"Commanding Field-Forces.

"To the Civil Commander of Albany,

"Graham's Town."

From McLuckie's, Colonel Somerset proceeded, with a force of about sixty

men, on the morning of the 5th of May, to the mouth of the Kowie, to

render assistance to Mr Cock, an individual to whom the commercial

interests of the Colony are much indebted for his success in opening the

mouth of that river. Here, a large drove of cattle were discovered in

the hands of the enemy as the detachment approached, and only one

hundred and twenty head could be recaptured, as the Kaffirs took shelter

in the bush, with but slight loss to themselves. On reaching the

dwelling-house overlooking the river, it was ascertained that from four

to five hundred Kaffirs, mostly armed with firelocks, had rushed upon

the cattle as they were going to water, drove off the guard, and

captured the herd. The little garrison kept up a spirited fire on the

enemy, a small cannon on the building being well served, and doing good

execution.

The following morning, another engagement took place near McLuckie's,

the troops following the Kaffirs into a Kloof where they had taken

shelter. Here the enemy made a desperate stand, as they will do when

driven to fight for their lives, and it was not until a field-piece was

brought to play upon the position, that they were completely routed.

The Kaffirs dragged off many of their dead and wounded, it being

invariably their object to conceal the loss they sustain, but it is

supposed that nearly fifty were killed; while on our side four men were

wounded, three dangerously. In this encounter, some of these savages

concealed themselves in wolf-holes, firing from their hiding-places.

Colonel Somerset's next care was to secure all the oat-hay he could,

amounting to 500,000 lbs. In the meantime, two large bodies of the

enemy were in the immediate front of the troops, whose ammunition was

running short. This, however, was speedily and safely conveyed to them.

It must not be forgotten, that where the troops could not render

assistance to the farmers, the latter in many instances defended their

homesteads with a gallantry equal to those mentioned by Colonel

Somerset. Frequently, a mere handful of white men followed the enemy

into the most frightful kloofs and passes, rescuing the cattle and

cutting off the retreat of the savages across the drifts, or through the

tangled bush, while their homes, containing their terrified families,

were left to the protection of two or three individuals, the women

assisting them in loading muskets, some bearing a brace of pistols at

their sides, ready to use them if necessary, and mere boys playing their

part right well, through the loop-holes, on any stray Kaffirs

approaching the cattle-kraals.

Meanwhile the outposts, commanding the drifts leading from the colony

into Kaffirland, were so weakly manned, from the want of a sufficient

military force on the frontier [Note 4], that the Kaffirs passed beyond

the range of the guns, but clearly in sight, driving flocks of sheep and

cattle in thousands before them. At Block Drift, they brought their

plunder to a sunny slope, and shouted in derision their usual cry of

"Izapa!" "Come on!" They exchanged shots with the fort, and drove off

a number of "slaughter cattle." Had Major Campbell (of the 91st)

permitted a sufficient number of men to leave the defences for the

purpose of re-capturing the animals, there would have been a grand rush

from the reserve of the enemy, who were concealed in the neighbouring

kloofs and villages.

Almost all the outposts were similarly assailed, and all were well

defended by the military. A general order was issued, in which

Lieutenants Cole, Dixon, Metcalf, and Mill, and Ensign Thom, 91st

Regiment, and Lieutenant Bourchier, R.E., were commended for the able

stand they had made against the enemy.

His Excellency Sir Peregrine Maitland again took up his quarters at

Graham's Town, on the 9th of May. One of his first arrangements was to

appoint Major Armstrong, Cape Mounted Rifles, to the command of the

district to Bathurst, with a view to protect the colonists there, and

enable them to recommence the cultivation of that beautiful and fertile

locality. Major Armstrong is an officer of long standing and great

experience in the Colony, and fully worthy of the trust reposed in him.

The inhabitants of Bathurst, whose only place of refuge was the church,

hailed the arrival of Major Armstrong and his force with great joy and

satisfaction.

Fort Peddie, a large military station under the command of

Lieutenant-Colonel Lindsay, 91st Regiment, had in the meantime become

the scene of Kaffir warfare. The I'Slambie tribes in its neighbourhood

had professed to remain neutral, until they found the Gaikas were

enriching themselves with the plunder of the Colony. These very

I'Slambie and Congo tribes received the thanks of Government with

praises and presents of money only two years before, in consideration of

their peaceful dispositions towards us. The Gaikas may be considered a

more worthy foe than these treacherous wretches paid and petted by us.

The Gaikas have ever professed an utter abhorrence of the white man;

and, although Sandilla, their chief, has occasionally been coaxed or

frightened into sending to our authorities persuasive, humble, and

pathetic messages, he has frequently retracted them, or followed them up

by some daring acts of violence or aggression.

Colonel Lindsay having received various threats from the I'Slambie

Chiefs, that they were coming with their warriors to attack his post,

kept a look-out for the approach of the enemy. Several of these chiefs

had, on the faith of their promises of neutrality, been received by the

English at Fort Peddie with cordiality, especially Pato and Nonnebe, the

latter a female descendant of General Campbell, who with his family was

wrecked in the last century off the east coast of Africa, in the

"Grosvenor" East Indiaman. Nonnebe's mother was the daughter of Miss

Campbell, one of the General's unhappy daughters, who had been seized

and retained by a Kaffir chief as his "great wife."

On the 1st of May, the war-cry of the enemy sounded in the direction of

the Beka Missionary Station, while the 7th Dragoon Guards were mustering

on the green at Fort Peddie. From the jaded state of the horses, owing

to a hurried march the day before, some delay took place in the movement

of the troops, but the force under Sir Harry Darell, which had been

stationed at Peddie for some time, was saddled up, and a gun, under

Lieutenant Hill, R.A., was ordered to proceed immediately. Soon after,

the rest of the 7th, under Lieut.-Col. Richardson, and a party of the

Cape Corps under Captain Donovan, started to meet the enemy, fifty of

the 91st preceding them. The Kaffirs, on their approach, burnt the

mission buildings and retired into the bush, where they were safe from

any present attack, nor would they leave it, though a feint hurried

movement in retiring was made.

In less than a month afterwards, the same _ruse_ was practised by Major

Yarborough, 91st Regiment, when in command of a small body of infantry

and a troop of dragoons, and with success. In this rencontre, a Kaffir

Chief was severely wounded. As he fell, his people surrounded him, and,

raising him up to bear him from the field, uttered the most dismal howls

and lamentations.

The cries of the women for the loss of their relations are mournful in

the extreme, and at night the wailings of these unhappy heathens fill

the air with a melancholy sound, while not far from them, the victorious

warriors chant their wild war-song, and dance their savage dance in

demoniac glee around the blazing watch-fires.

On Friday, the 8th of May, Colonel Richardson, who was ordered to

Bathurst, via Trumpeter's Post, to co-operate with Colonel Somerset in

the protection of Lower Albany, had a rencontre with the enemy on his

march through Trumpeter's Drift, one of those frightful passes formed by

nature for the lurking-place of the savage, or the wild beast. I know

the spot well: no place could be more favourable for the murderous

operations of the Kaffirs, or less suited to the movements of British

cavalry. On reaching the spot where the missionary, Schula, was

murdered the year before, Colonel Richardson found Captain Schonswar,

7th, who had the charge of the advance guard of waggons, engaged with

the enemy, the waggons being drawn up. The difficulty of proceeding

down a steep declivity commanded by a dense kloof, and so bushy that the

waggons could only pass in single file, was represented to Colonel

Richardson. His reply was, that he was "ordered to Trumpeter's", and he

immediately directed the waggons to advance; but, from the incessant

fire kept up by the enemy from the bush on each side of the defile, and

finding his men falling rapidly, he ordered them to dismount, _each man

of the centre file taking charge of three horses_, whilst the rest were

extended in skirmishing order. Thus, one-third of the force was

rendered inefficient by the necessary arrangement for guarding the

horses. "In this manner, they had to fight their way through the bush,

for the distance of about six miles, down to the river, and up the hill

on the other side, the whole time exposed to the fire of the enemy, who

were generally concealed in the bush. In some places, they attempted to

stop the passage of the troops by rushing into the road in front, when

the dragoons were forced to clear their way through them. Thirty-seven

dead bodies of Kaffirs were counted by the officers as they passed along

the road. The Kaffirs approached within five yards to fire, and dropped

down in the bush the moment they had discharged their guns."

One made a dash at Mr Butler, 7th, and the latter, without having time

to raise his rifle to his shoulder, shot the savage dead when close upon

him.

The troops were hotly engaged in this way from nine till twelve o'clock;

the object was the capture of the ammunition-waggon, and the enemy

shouted aloud they would have it either at that drift or the next. In

this affair several of the dragoons were wounded--two severely--and one

artilleryman.

While engaged, a party was despatched for a fresh supply of ammunition,

which was brought from the waggons by the men under a heavy fire from

the enemy.

Colonel Richardson, being short of ammunition, instead of proceeding to

Bathurst, brought his own report of the affair to His Excellency Sir

Peregrine Maitland, who had now assumed the command of the forces on the

frontier in person.

The pressure of the times hastened the gathering of fresh forces of

various descriptions from all parts of the Colony; every district, from

Cape Town upwards, gave forth its burghers, and, among other welcome

arrivals, were six guns escorted by a body of sailors, marines, and the

remainder of the 27th.

The cavalcade of guns guarded by sailors, presented a singular

appearance, marching down the hill into Graham's Town. No steady tread

of soldiers' measured paces, no shapely column, no waving plumes, though

the marines, in their plain dress, more adapted for work than show,

enlivened the group of brave tars as they entered the Drostdy Square.

The sailors tramped onwards with their usual merry, unconcerned air, in

their coarse blue clothing and straw hats, but they looked well fitted

for their work, as they moved forwards concentrated round the guns. As

I stood watching the cavalcade, I mused proudly on the might and majesty

of England, and these proud emotions stirred my heart still deeper as

the men fell back from their guns, and the marines drew up in a steady

line before the brave old General--the British hero--the kind Governor--

but, better than all, the _good man_!

On the 22nd of May, our troops and colonists sustained a severe loss by

the capture and partial destruction of forty-one waggons in the

frightful pass where Colonel Richardson's affray with the Kaffirs took

place. The loss to the public, as well as to private individuals, was

so severe, as to involve the officer in command, Captain Colin Campbell,

91st Regiment, in a court-martial, which sentenced him to be cashiered;

but on a recommendation to mercy from the court, he was permitted to

return to his duty, "with such an admonition as the Commander-in-chief

thought fit to give him." The Duke of Wellington's opinion on the case

wound up with this characteristic and caustic remark: "It does not

appear that Captain Colin Campbell did anything to show his capacity for

the command in which he was engaged."

On this occasion, Lieutenant Dixon, 91st Regiment, who had been ordered

to assist in escorting the waggons a certain distance, till the other

escort was _met_, nobly volunteered proceeding farther, and led the

advance; nor did he retire till his ammunition was expended. On

reaching the rear, he found the commanding officer of the party

retreating, by the advice of some civilians, who considered the defile

impassable for so many waggons, under such a fire. Lieutenant Dixon's

coolness, courage, and energy, in not only leading the men, but

literally "putting his shoulder to the wheel" of a waggon, to clear the

line, were spoken of by all as worthy of the highest praise. His horse,

and that of Ensign Aitchison, were shot under their riders. Surgeon

Hadaway's horse also received an assegai wound, and was killed after he

had dismounted from it.

On the 25th of May, Colonels Somerset and Richardson's divisions, which

had both been employed in patrolling the country, returned to Graham's

Town.

The 28th was appointed as a day of prayer throughout the Colony. The

churches were crowded, and the mourning garments of those whose friends

had fallen by the hands of the savage, presented a sad memorial of the

times. Strangely contrasted on this day were the contending parties,

the white man and the Kaffir. The former on this occasion lifted up his

voice for help from Heaven, while the heathen, armed with brand and

assegai, stalked wildly through the land; and while good men were

calling upon God to assist them in their righteous cause, the foe, in a

body of nine thousand strong, assembled on the open plains before Fort

Peddie, threatening to "trample it to dust."

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Note 1. By reference to Colonel Tulloch's official Reports on

Invaliding and Mortality in the Army it will be seen that the rate of

sickness and death among the troops at the Cape is less than in England.

Note 2. The Drostdy barracks occupy the site of the Landros, or Dutch

magistrate's house, hence the name.

Note 3. It has been remarked as a grand trait in the Kaffir character,

that they will never injure a woman. Their policy leads them to imitate

ours in this respect with regard to _white women_, but, among their

marauding parties, like those described in Colonel Somerset's dispatch,

even women and children of our nation have fallen a prey to the assegai.

Their politic generosity _never_ applies to any but _white_ people;

they will torture, burn, and impale the unhappy Fingoes who fall into

their hands, without regard to age or sex.

Note 4. It was found necessary to abandon and burn Post Victoria early

in May. This post, the establishment of which had so highly incensed

the Gaikas, was reduced to ashes in consequence of the occupation by the

British troops of Block Drift, distant about nine miles from it, and

nearer Sandilla's territory.

The Cape and the Kaffirs: A Diary of Five Years' Residence in Kaffirland · 第 26 / 59 题