There was nothing very pleasant in the prospect before me of leaving
England just as summer was opening her gates, and exhibiting her
flower-strewn paths and fragrant hedgerows. My health was not good, and
to my mode of travelling I looked forward as anything but agreeable;
since a troopship can never be considered as affording even convenient
accomodation for a lady, and the miseries of a sea-life must of
necessity be enhanced by being shared with a crowd of fellow-sufferers
of various classes.
Nevertheless, on reaching Ireland, (land of green spots and generous
hearts!) my spirits rallied; my soul could not but respond to kindly
sympathies and disinterested hospitality, and by the time the troopship,
"Abercrombie Robinson," arrived in Kingstown Harbour, whence we were to
embark (in all upwards of 700 souls) for the Cape of Good Hope, I had
shaken off my unavailing regrets in a great degree, and was prepared to
meet my destiny with a fortitude worthy of a soldier's wife,--a
fortitude, indeed, earned by experience in my encounter with "perils by
sea and land."
But people now don't care for rhymes romantic,
And I must cease to think of former years.
This, my third trip across the vast Atlantic,
Hath taught me to subdue a world of tears;
For worse than idle, on a joyous track,
Were the vain sorrow earned by looking back!--_My Journal_.
The inhabitants of Dublin, "in the merry month of May," 1842, emigrated
by instalments to visit the "Abercrombie Robinson,"--a ship of 1400 tons
being rarely seen in Kingstown Harbour. A few short months after, she
lay a wreck upon the sands of Africa, a true type of the littleness of
man's works, and of the power of Him who "blew with his winds and they
were scattered."
We embarked, and for a day or two enjoyed the balmy breezes of the
summer sea as we lay in harbour. His Excellency the Lord Lieutenant
came on board in the barge, to see the ship, the barge being steered by
the agent, Lieutenant J.R. Black, R.N. The guns saluted, the yards were
manned, bands were playing, colours flying, soldiers cheering, etc, etc.
The Lord Lieutenant congratulated us on our fine prospects, and drank
our healths, wishing us prosperity (and I am sure he was in earnest);
and his Aides-de-Camp looked as civil as they could, considering they
were very much bored: and, when we had all played at company and
propriety for a given time, his Excellency left the ship, steered as
before, and there was a repetition of guns firing, soldiers shouting,
etc; and the people on the shore, no doubt, thought it very fine indeed.
We were better off with regard to accommodation than we had been as
inmates of a transport on a former occasion, when we went to Saint
Helena. Our ship was strong, apparently, as a castle, and our
accommodation very superior. With the first favourable breeze we spread
our canvass, and sailed out of Kingstown Harbour, hundreds cheering us
from the shores of green Ireland, while our men responded to their
shouts.
The voyage was dull enough, only varied by a due quantity of parades,
roll-calls, mustering of watches, with a running accompaniment of
bugles, bagpipes, and drums. Our party, in general, was an agreeable
one; the average quantity of ill-humour being small in proportion to our
number, and therefore falling harmlessly enough on those who were
willing to make the best of every thing. We paid by the way a visit to
Madeira.
The view of this beautiful island (or rather of Funchal, the principal
town) in some magazine, is the best representation of it I have seen.
The town is prettily situated, but deplorably spoiled by the narrowness
of its streets. [Note 1.] I was, unfortunately, too much indisposed,--
suffering as I was from the effects of a species of scarlet fever,--to
visit the interior of the island; but even the outskirts of the town
were most refreshing. There was a sound of running waters, a waving of
green boughs, scenting the air with their fragrance, and making me
imagine myself, in my weak state, fanned by the kindly wings of unseen
angels. The last fortnight on shipboard had been passed in great
discomfort: heavy sickness at all times is a severe tax on our patience,
but at sea, in a narrow cabin, where one's weak voice is often drowned
by the creaking of masts, the dashing of the waves, and the hoarse calls
of the seamen, it is beyond all conception to those who have not
similarly suffered. My little tour in my tiny palanquin at Madeira was,
therefore, most delicious. First I lingered in the square, under the
trees, looking at the 11th regiment of Portuguese troops on parade.
Well-dressed, well drilled, well appointed, and withal well looking,
they had every appearance of being an efficient body of men. Then their
harmonious band (no one instrument being heard distinctly above another)
exceeded in sweetness any regimental band I ever heard in our service.
The big drum, instead of being struck with violence, merely swelled in
accompaniment; and, when the fifes took up the strain, the brazen
instruments lowered their tone in perfect unison with the powers of the
lesser ones. This over, I was carried onwards through alleys green with
the foliage of the graceful vine; the distant hills made me long for
refreshing landscapes and "spicy gales," but these were denied me, and
my bearers carried me into a garden adjoining a house which we
understood belonged to the English Consul, but which we found was
tenanted by Lady Harriet D--, who was residing at Madeira for the
benefit of her children's health. On learning this, as we were about to
retire, a man-servant followed, begging us, in his lady's name, to
proceed. We did so, and under a group of trees we discovered Lady
Harriet, surrounded by books and work, and apparently intent on the
instruction of two sable pupils. The sound of her voice as she rose to
meet me, bespoke her pity for my pale looks and exhausted frame, and the
refreshment we accepted at her ladyship's hospitable hands enabled me to
endure the fatigue of returning to the town better than I should
otherwise have done.
The gun from the "Abercrombie" announced her being under weigh, and we
were obliged to depart in haste, the heavy surf and constant swell of
the sea at Madeira rendering the passage from the shore to the ship
always tedious and more or less difficult.
Almost every one has heard of Clementina, the beautiful nun, at the
Convent at Madeira. Her name has been so often before the public that
there can be no possible harm in relating a singular incident of which
she was the heroine, and which occurred while we were there. A large
party (from the English frigate lying like ourselves at anchor) landed
and paid a visit to the convent. Among the group assembled in front of
the grafting, behind which the nuns appear to receive visitors, was a
Mr H. As Clementina advanced she caught sight of this gentleman, and
had no sooner done so than with a sudden scream she fainted. Every one
was amazed, Mr H as much so as any. On recovering her senses, the fair
nun inquired if the gentleman who had caused her emotion bore the name
of H? On being answered in the affirmative, she almost relapsed into a
state of insensibility; but on recovering herself, she begged further to
know if he was the Mr H with whom she had formerly eloped from the
convent? It was explained that the Mr H she now saw was the cousin of
her lover, to whom he bore an extraordinary resemblance. On learning
this, she requested him to be the bearer of a letter from her to his
cousin, which she afterwards forwarded to him, and then the curtain
dropping between the nuns and the visitors closed this singular and
romantic interview.
Again we set sail, and the same monotonous routine continued with little
variation. Occasionally, we fell in with a passing ship looking like a
thing of life upon the solitary world of waters, which brought us the
consolation of being able to write homewards. Homeward letters! Ah!
what eager hearts at home were wishing for those letters! How much of
affection, and sorrow, and anxiety, and prayerful love was in them I
thought, as the bag, ere the boat departed for the "Homeward bound" lay
at my feet upon the senseless deck! It is the habit of tracing the
common things of life back to their sources, be they sad or sweet, which
has sometimes given me pleasure, oftener pain. There moved off the
gallant ship, there rang the cheers of our soldiers, there sounded the
reckless voices of the young, the gay, the heartless, and the
high-spirited, and while they perhaps were little thinking of the
parents, the friends, the sisters, to whom they had sent home letters,
my eyes were filling as:
"Eager memories rushed upon the heart
And burst oblivion's cloud."
On the 22nd of August there was a cry of "land!" and, on the following
morning, the vast mountains forming the boundary of part of the
south-western coast of Africa, lay stretched before us. Then Table
Mountain and its smaller companions reared their cloud-capped crests;
and the white villas at Green Point tantalised us with their proximity,
from which, owing to the wind, we were obliged to bear away constantly.
For two days we hovered in the offing, but on the evening of the 25th,
we hailed the sound of our anchor-chains. It was a most lovely night,
the unclouded moon illuminating the white houses in Cape Town, and the
lofty mountains standing out in strong relief against the clear sky;
while our bugles, drums, and fifes, made merry music on the poop of our
gallant ship. How we lingered about, unwilling to retire to rest, so
anxious were we for the morning! It came at last, and the commanding
officer went ashore to report in due form our arrival to the Governor.
On his return in a few hours, we learned that all of us, except the
Colonel and the Major, were to proceed, by way of Algoa Bay, to the
frontier. The flank companies and the band were to be brought from
thence to Cape Town, and the three companies expected from Saint Helena
were to be detained there on their arrival. Many of our party,
especially the gentlemen, rejoiced at this; liking the prospect of an
active and sporting life infinitely better than that which would be
merely varied by lounging about Cape Town, attempting races, or
philandering at the balls. We were to remain in harbour about five days
for water and provisions, (our stock being quite exhausted) then to
proceed on our voyage.
On Saturday morning, the 27th of August, all the officers not for duty
obtained permission to go on shore; the command of the troops on board
devolving on Captain Gordon, 91st regiment. All landed but six; my
husband was one of those to remain, consequently I did not accept the
kind invitation of a friend to accompany him with my little girl to his
house near Cape Town. Afterwards, in the hour of danger, and in the
time of extreme terror, I had a strange undefinable satisfaction in
having remained, though the sight of my child made me wish I had sent
her on shore in the morning. Towards evening, the wind increased
considerably; but, though there was a heavy sea and every prospect of a
gale, our captain depended on his anchors. The Agent, Lieutenant Black,
R.N., had gone on shore on duty at four o'clock in the evening, and
being invited to dine with the Governor at seven o'clock, was in
consequence prevented, by the impossibility of boats getting off, from
returning on board, The whole responsibility, therefore, devolved on the
Master, Mr John Young. The wind and sea rising caused at first but
little alarm; at twelve o'clock, however, the ship shivered; apparently
from being struck by a heavy sea. She trembled in every joint, and the
same sensation being almost immediately after felt again, it was evident
the vessel touched the bottom and with some violence. I rose from my
bed, and dressing my child and myself, we proceeded with my husband to
the cuddy, where some of the officers were assembled round the stove,
the night being bitterly cold. The captain, still depending on the
strength of his anchor-chains, saw no great cause of alarm, and having
put my child to sleep on a chair, which Captain Gordon kindly prepared
for her, I retired again to my berth, and being quite worn out, soon
fell fast asleep. I was awoke by my husband bidding me rise and come on
deck immediately, the anchor-chains having both snapped one after the
other. My little Isabel stood beside her father partly dressed, and
pale and silent. I have no distinct recollection of what happened for
the first half hour after this awful intelligence. I remember hearing
the water splashing about my cabin, and seeing our little lamp swinging
violently backwards and forwards. I remember being dragged in unshod
feet along the wet deck, up the steerage hatchway, while my husband
carried my child. I can remember, too, her little voice issuing from my
bed, into which she had crept to fasten on her warm boots, and begging
me not to be frightened.
"How calm she is!" said I, to my husband.
"Poor thing!" he whispered, "she does not know her danger."
"Yes, I do," she answered, overhearing us; "but mamma has often told me
that God Almighty can take care of us if He pleases; and I keep saying
that to myself, and then I am not half so frightened."
I remember the very height of the storm, when the noise of the thunder
could scarcely be distinguished from the roar of the waters, and the
torrents of rain,--when the elements in fact howled wildly and angrily
at one another,--when the lightning pouring, as one may call it, on our
decks, blazed in at the fore windows of the cuddy, being horror-stricken
at the ghastly faces assembled under the uncertain and flickering light
of a broken lamp. I can remember when the water rose up to my knees,
being carried between decks with my child, through rows of shrieking
women and silent soldiers. The conduct of our men was beyond all
praise.
For some time, I sat on a chest with my child, near the fore-hatch, the
ship continuing to drive, every moment striking against the sand, and
our only hopes resting on the coming of the dawn, which would show us
where we were, the floods of rain preventing the lightning--vivid as it
was--from doing this distinctly. About six in the morning, the master
came down among us with some comfort, saying he hoped the ship was
making a bed for herself in the sand. In truth, she had been all night
like some great creature scratching her way through it with restless
impatience. The rudder had been carried away from the first, the stern
cabins knocked into one, and the sea bubbling up like a fountain in the
after part of the ship. We were yet uncertain of our safety, for there
were rocks not many hundred yards from us on which the "Waterloo"
convict ship had already struck; but of her anon. Meanwhile, our people
attaching a rope to a shot, fired it on shore, but in vain. All night
the guns from the fort and other vessels had been giving awful warnings
to the town, while the constant roll of musketry onboard the convict
ship, led us to imagine that the convicts were mutinous. This was,
however, discovered afterwards not to be the case; they had been
loosened from their bonds on the first alarm, and desired to make use of
the first possible means of escape.
At length, as we neared the coast, which for some time had been crowded
with spectators, we were enabled, through God's mercy, to get a boat on
shore with a rope attached to the ship, and afterwards fastened to an
anchor driven in the sand. As the surf-boats put off, the first of
which brought Lieutenant Black, the Agent, on board, our men gave nine
hearty cheers, and in a few minutes we commenced our disembarkation; the
women and children being lowered into the boats first: I waited for the
third boat. Such a noble example had been shown by the officers to
their men, and its effects on the latter had been so important, that, in
spite of my anxiety to land, I felt unwilling to exhibit it by hurrying
from the ship to the shore, and thus creating unnecessary fears among
the poor uneducated women, whose terrors I had witnessed during the
awful hours of the night. As I was carried between decks, I had been
struck, in spite of my fears, with the scene that met my view there.
Pale women, with dishevelled hair, stretched themselves from their beds,
wringing their hands, and imploring me to comfort them. Some prayed
aloud; others, Roman Catholics, called on the Virgin and their favourite
saints to help them in their peril; and many bent in silent but eloquent
agony over their unconscious infants. One woman who had, during the
whole voyage, been considered as dying of deep decline, sat up in the
hammock which had been carefully slung for her, and with a calm voice,
which was yet distinguishable from the noise around her, imparted a
certain confidence in the power of the Almighty to all who were willing
to listen to her, or at least prepared them to view their possibly
approaching fate with more resignation. That calm, steady voice sounded
strangely amid the cries of fearful women, the hoarse voices of reckless
sailors, and the crashing of timbers; while, above all, still rolled on
the sound of musketry from the convict ship, "Waterloo," now beating
violently against the rocks, and beyond immediate help; while the
appearance of hundreds on the beach striving, some to get their boats
off, and others with daring spirit urging their horses through the surf,
formed a scene difficult to describe, even by the pen of a mere
looker-on.
Our ship was a stout vessel, and held well together. I embarked at last
in a surf-boat with my child (my husband of course waited for his
company), and with a heart full of earnest gratitude to the Almighty, I
approached the land. Had I dreamt of the awful calamity which
afterwards befell our unfortunate neighbour, the "Waterloo," I should
not have felt the exhilaration of spirit I did as the Lascars bore me
from the boat to the shore through the surf, while Mr Dalzell, of the
27th, carried my child gallantly through it before him on his saddle.
Mr Jenkins' carriage stood waiting for us on the beach; and having had
the satisfaction of witnessing my husband's disembarkation with his men,
we started for our kind friend's charming villa, in the neighbourhood of
Cape Town. As we drove on, the sight of the "Waterloo's" inverted flag,
half-mast high, made me shudder; but, as the tide was falling (which,
by-the-by, increased the danger of her position, but of this I was
unaware), I trusted the boats might be enabled to reach her, and thus
hoped for the best. In half an hour afterwards, her mainmast fell over
her side, the ship parted in four different places, and in less than ten
minutes upwards of 200 unfortunate beings were precipitated into the
raging surf. About 70 escaped by swimming on shore; among them Mr
Leigh, of the 99th regiment; many were crushed beneath the falling
spars; ghastly faces gleamed up from the boiling waters, and with
outstretched arms implored help from the shore. Eyes, glazed with agony
and despair, burst from their sockets as the rising heads of the
sufferers got jammed between floating timbers; and mothers, with infants
clinging to their bosoms, were washed off the rafts to which they vainly
strove to cling, whilst:
"--The bubbling cry
Of some strong swimmer in his agony,"
rose above the roar of the elements, and in a moment was smothered by
the dash of the raging waters over his helpless limbs. Only one woman
was saved: she, poor creature, had seen her husband and child swept away
before her; On being brought into the barrack square at Cape Town, where
the Governor and his Staff were assembled, the unfortunate woman flung
herself at the feet of the former, and embracing his knees exclaimed,
"Can you not help me? you have power here; can you not give me back my
husband and my child? you look a good man; can you do nothing for me?
Ah! I know you will help me. Sir, I beseech you to give me back my
husband and my child!" And this was only one of many scenes of
distress.
Great praise was afterwards deservedly bestowed on our men for their
steady conduct and ready obedience to their officers. The detachments
of the 27th and Cape Mounted Riflemen deserved equal praise. Young men,
too, they were--the average age of the battalion being scarcely more
than twenty-one years. Many of them had never been drilled--never even
had arms in their hands;--almost all the rest were volunteers from
different regiments, and consequently little known to their superiors.
The real cause, however, may be traced in the example shown them by
their officers; and too much praise cannot be bestowed on Captain Bertie
Gordon, to whose charge they fell on the senior officer's leaving the
ship. Young in years, and comparatively so in experience, he acted with
a calmness, decision, and judgment, that give high promise of future
good. Much more could I say on this subject, but that (as is the case
with all high and generous spirits) he who most deserves praise is
always the most unwilling to have it blazed abroad. All, however, must
have esteemed themselves fortunate in falling under the command of one
so able to do his duty under such trying circumstances.
It may not be irrelevant to say a word or two here on the subject of the
frequent wrecks in Table Bay during the winter months, viz, in May,
June, July, and August. Ships during these months are ordered to go
round to Simon's Bay, but this cannot always be done, as in our case.
There had been a great deal of sickness on board during the whole of our
voyage; three days before we made the land, three men belonging to the
91st regiment had died of typhus fever in the short space of thirty-one
hours and a half, their bodies and their bedding being committed to the
deep without one moment's unnecessary delay. Fresh provisions and
vegetables were thus most desirable, especially for the invalids.
Simon's Bay being between forty and fifty miles by sea, and twenty-three
by land, from Cape Town, it was a point of great importance to disembark
the troops if possible at the latter place. It must be remembered that
it was only on arriving in Table Bay, when the commanding officer
communicated with the Governor, that we learned we were to proceed to
the frontier. It was also necessary to take in fresh stock.
Furthermore, the wind (after we had been beating about the offing for
three days in a calm) became favourable for entering Table Bay, the
weather was remarkably fine, and the winter season at its close.
Our vessel was one of Soames' finest ships, and for nearly a month after
the wreck lay firmly imbedded in the sand; but the pieces of the hull of
the "Waterloo" which were picked up on the beach, crumbled to dust in
the hands of those who tried their strength. I have said thus much of
ourselves, and I have said it impartially, because, in cases of
shipwreck, the captain is frequently blamed for what he cannot help--for
what, in fact, is a visitation of the Almighty. To the master of the
troopship, as well as to Lieutenant Black, R.N., we were indebted,
during the whole of the voyage, for the utmost attention and kindness;
the more so as, from the unanimity subsisting between them, they were
enabled to act together for the benefit of us all; and I think I cannot
close this part of my narrative better than by publishing a letter
written to Captain Young a few days after the wreck by Captain Bertie
Gordon. [One equally complimentary was written to our esteemed friend
Lieutenant Black.]
"Main Barracks, Cape Town, August 31, 1842.
"My dear Sir,
"As commanding the reserve battalion of the 91st Regiment at the time of
the wreck of the transport `Abercrombie Robinson' in Table Bay, I feel
myself authorised to express my sense of your coolness, intrepidity, and
readiness of resource, during those anxious hours of responsibility,
when, from eleven o'clock on the night of the 27th of August, to
daylight on the morning of the 28th, the lives of seven hundred souls
depended, under God, on your firmness and seamanship. They are
qualities essential in the commander of a ship at all times, and must be
more than ever necessary when several hundred soldiers, women, and
children, crowd his decks.
"They conspicuously distinguished your conduct throughout that night,
whose scenes were too full of danger not to have impressed every one
with the near possibility of destruction.
"The question of life or death seemed often to hang on each minute's
duration; but, through God's mercy, your able conduct brought us safely
through a host of perils.
"On the part of the officers, non-commissioned officers, and soldiers of
the reserve battalion 91st Regiment, and of the detachments of the 27th
Regiment and Cape Mounted Riflemen, then on board, I beg to offer our
united acknowledgments of the praise and gratitude which your exertions
so highly merited.
"I remain, my dear Sir,
"Very truly yours,
"Bertie E.M. Gordon, Capt. 91st Regt.
"The undersigned officers of the 91st Regiment, on board the
`Abercrombie' at the time of her being driven ashore on the morning of
the 29th of August, beg to subscribe their names to the above letter of
thanks.
"J. Ward, Captain 91st Regt.
"J.C. Cahill, Paym. Res. Batt. 91st Regt.
"J.H.E. Stubbs, M.D., Asst.-Surg. 91st Regt.
"J. McInroy, Ensign 91st Regt.
"Robt. Lavers, Ensign 91st Regt."
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Note 1. An inhabitant of Madeira gave an excellent reason for this
apparent fault, viz, that the houses being built closely together
afforded a shade from the sun that wide streets would not have have
done.