gangrenous, and Melchior Anderegg, kindest of nurses, was applying the
dressings, muttering “schlecht, schlecht!” A climber with his two guides
had been exposed during one night in snow. Of the three, this guide
was the only one who suffered frost-bite. He wore new boots, which I
inspected, and found the tongues not sewn to the upper leathers; also
he used no gaiters or other appliance to keep the snow out of his boots.
Neither did he put his feet in the rücksack as did the others. His boots
were simply converted into bags of ice.
In the year 1894 I saw a case of frost-bitten fingers in the Dauphiné
which was due to violation of every wise law. There, too, I came across
an accident rather unusual in mountain experience. A guide was struck in
the mouth while ascending an ice-slope by the iron-shod heel of the man
above, who slipped from his step. Two caravans were together too closely,
and the leading guide of the second party suffered in consequence. His
tongue was badly torn, and I had to put in several stitches.
There is a quantity of good literature about Alpine accidents, and their
causes and prevention. What is done in this way for the scaffolder? What
training has he corresponding to that of the mountaineer? The fault did
not lie in the least with my scaffolder’s employers, who are most careful
of their people; but that there are no definite plans of prevention among
the men themselves; no general rules of their craft such as obtain among
climbers. Now, if a bricklayer, when he takes bricks up a ladder, uses
the ancient hod which balances on the shoulder, it is not gripped by the
hand, and takes nothing from the prehensile power of the man. If anything
drops, it is the bricks, not the bricklayer; but his business nowadays is
rather with small buildings, for the larger buildings, with scaffoldings,
which are quite works of art, do not require the carrying of the hod, but
take their weights up by pulleys to platforms above.
The way in which the Alpine Club have met the risks of the mountains is
interesting as showing how intelligent men deal with danger, and should
make us hopeful that in the future we shall deal with many of the risks
which workmen incur in their less dangerous avocations.
As to accidents in general, we are too military altogether; in our
attitude with regard to them, we seem to expect to give and take
injuries. Ambulance lectures are organized all over the country which
teach wise plans of first aid to the injured. This is very good and
helpful, but if, with this teaching, were combined methods, thoughtfully
planned and taught, of prevention of accidents, especially those common
or peculiar to the occupations of the districts, these lectures might be
made most valuable means of spreading useful knowledge.
Notification and collective investigation, as in infectious diseases,
would soon put a check to many common accidents in our villages,[3] and
we should reflect more on this subject because the progress of surgery
saves so many lives formerly regarded as hopelessly lost. The individuals
so saved are often mutilated, and no inquest being held on eyes or limbs,
the value of a public inquiry as to the accident is lost. Many are the
lives saved in our hospitals, many are the lives lost or maimed by our
ignorance and carelessness, for our plans of prevention have by no means
kept pace with our methods of cure.
The intelligent sportsman always leads the van, and invents new ways of
protecting himself; for example, those men who, being short-sighted, have
to shoot in spectacles, and wear shot-proof glasses, have rather gained
an advantage over the keen-sighted by this useful protection against
stray pellets.
It is obvious that forethought should extend to every sport and
occupation, especially when attended by danger, and with regard to
hunting a useful article has lately appeared on accidents in the hunting
field in reference to prevention, by Mr. Noble Smith.[4] It would be
well if this kind of formulated knowledge could extend and spread among
British workmen, especially agricultural labourers, whose awakened
intelligence has to deal with new machinery, making new accidents, into
the causes of which no methodical inquiry is ever made.
Let every young climber read Dr. Claude Wilson’s chapter on the dangers
of the mountains, as a thoughtful epitome on this important subject.
Climbing will not be less enjoyed by men possessing knowledge of the
dangers; and more successful expeditions are made by those who understand
such matters best, and look on their knowledge as an essential part of
the sport.
If, in spite of every care, an accident occurs of a minor kind, it will
often happen that an antiseptic pad and bandage ready in the rücksack
and skilfully applied will give confidence to the party, and prevent the
expedition from being a failure. Every man of the caravan in climbing
should have his little packet, there would thus be enough bandages
altogether to steady a sprain or a dislocation, or to deal even with a
broken limb.
A note should be kept of all casualties occurring in the cognizance of
the climber, so that comparing records of minor accidents may prevent
greater ones. The methodical yearly records of the _Alpine Journal_,
summed up now and then by able and experienced climbers like Mr. C. E.
Mathews, may prove of value, not only to mountaineers, but to mankind.
Twenty years ago Mr. Leslie Stephen wrote to the _Alpine Journal_, “I
hold that we can best promote Alpine Climbing by enforcing with all our
power a code of rules which will make it a reputable pursuit for sensible
men.” The pursuit needs no defence now. One man may be born a lover of
the mountains, another by climbing come to love them later; but as a
baby, boy, or man, he is always a climbing animal.
After forty, a climber is in the old age of his youth, and must not be
so reckless as to pace; his endurance and sure-footedness may be better,
but his elasticity is less, though there may be nothing to remind him
that “changeful time with hand severe” will make him soon those sports
forego which he still pursues with the enthusiasm of his youth. In the
most active party there is usually some one rather slower than the rest,
to remind us of that famous jest of Calverley, when toiling up a slope
with an eminent novelist,—“the labour we delight in physics Payn.” We can
scarcely compute how much the toils add to the pleasures, only of this
we may be assured, of what also is often found in life, that “to travel
hopefully is a better thing than to arrive, and the true success is to
labour.”
FOOTNOTES
[1] _Naturalist’s Voyage round the World._
[2] “A Country Doctor’s Ride,” from the _Lancet_, January, 1896.
[3] See _Preventive Surgery_. Deighton, Bell and Co.
[4] _Clinical Sketches_, 1895.
INDEX.
A
Abney, Captain, 13, 132.
Accidents, 145.
Acute angle in foot, 125, 127.
Adder, 3, 21.
Addenbrooke’s Hospital, 92.
Aiguille des Charmoz, 15.
Aiguille du Dru, 59, 86.
Aiguille du Géant, 13.
Aiguille Grise, 55.
Aiguille Blanche de Péteret, 54.
Aiguille Noire, 65.
Aletsch Glacier, 81, 82, 115.
_Alpine Journal_, 116, 166.
Alphubel Mountain, 105.
Amateurs, 119.
Ambulance lectures, 162.
Ankle joints, 120.
Andes, The Great, 73.
Andenmatten’s boots, 10.
Anderegg, Melchior, 3.
Aosta, 54, 99.
Arolla, 5, 91.
Avalanches, 88, 155.
Axe, 147, 152.
B
Badminton book, 133, 155.
Balance, 141.
Bâle, 92.
Balfour, Professor, 55.
Balloon, 74, 75.
Bayard statue, 25.
Beagle, Voyage of, 14, 135.
Bernese Oberland, 1, 21, 43, 81.
Bert, Paul, 74.
Bietschhorn, 8, 84.
Biner, 12, 53.
Bionnay, 89.
Birrenhorn, 3, 21, 116.
Blümlis-Alphorn, 23.
Boots, 10, 62, 159.
Bourcet, 41.
Bourg St. Pierre, 98.
Bouveret, 95.
Breuil, 99.
Bricklayer, 161.
Brieg, 71, 114.
Brocs, 25.
Brünig Pass, 68.
Byron, 111.
C
Calverley, 167.
_Cambridge Chronicle_, vii.
Canons at Hospice, 96.
Cantonal Hospital, 115.
Cast of snake, 3, 21.
Chamounix, 14, 61.
Challeret Hut, 27.
Châtillon, 54.
Cheval rouge, 39.
Chillon, 95.
Chimborazo, 73.
Coolidge, Mr., 41.
Col Durand, 47.
Col des Ecrins, 29.
Col du Lion, 10.
Col des Avalanches, 28.
Concordia Hut, 81, 82.
Constantia Hut, 47.
Conway, Sir Martin, 90.
Courmayeur, 54.
Couttet’s Hotel, 16.
Couvercle, 60.
Coxwell, 76.
Cretins, 99.
Crystalline rocks, 7.
D
Darwin, 14, 135.
Dauphiné, 19.
Deciduous trees, 5.
Dent Blanche, 48.
Dent, Mr. Clinton, 133.
Dogs of St. Bernard, 96.
Doldenhorn, 7.
Dom, 110.
Dru, Aiguille du, 86.
Drym, 152.
Durand, Col, 47.
E
Eagle, 29, 84.
Earthquake, 9.
Egger, 44.
Eggishorn, 81.
Emile Rey, 12, 55.
Erasmus, 92.
Eyre, Mr., 17, 113, 147.
Erratic boulders, 82.
Everest, Mt., 56.
F
Fatigue, 2, 167.
Fée, 53, 72, 112.
Fellows, Sir Charles, 74.
Ferpècle, 50.
Finsteraarhorn, 72.
Fly fishing, 22.
Föhn wind, 58, 69.
Frost-bite, 33, 62, 149, 159, 160.
Fry, Sir Edward, 89.
Furggen Joch, 10, 54.
G
Gabelhorn, 78.
Gangrene, 62.
Gaspard, 27.
Gauchos, 135.
Geneva, 87, 95.
Gemmi, 44.
Gendarme, 111.
Glacier, Gt. Aletsch, 81, 82, 111.
Glacier des Bossons, 59.
Glacier Blanc, 26.
Glacier de la Bonne Pierre, 29.
Glacier, Mer de Glace, 59.
Glacier de Talèfre, 60.
Glacier, Zinal, 44.
Goggles, 52, 152.
Gorner Glacier, 9, 45.
Grande Aiguille, 30.
Grand Plateau, 58.
Grands Mulets, 59.
Grenoble, 19, 25.
Grépon, 15.
Grimsel, 69.
Grindelwald, 83, 91.
Grund, Saas, 106.
Güssfeldt, Dr., 55.
Guttannen, 69.
H
Handeck Falls, 70.
Hari, Guide, 7, 24.
Hawes, Mr., 74.
Hazeline cream, 84.
Helix, 4.
Hod, Bricklayer’s, 161.
Holbein, 92.
Hospice, 96.
Hut, Concordia, 81.
Hut, Challeret, 27.
Hut, Mountet, 47.
Hut, Quintino Sella, 55.
Hut, Stockje, 49.
Hunting, 164.
I
Icebergs, 80.
Imseng, Xaver, 113.
Inquest, 163.
Italy, 54, 99.
J
Jardin, 60.
Jenner, Dr., 148.
Joch, Furggen, 10, 54.
Joch, Lys, 9.
Joch, Trift, 14, 79.
Jungfrau, 81.
Jura, 92.
K
Kalbermatten, Alois, 9, 76, 113, 131.
Kander, 4.
Kandersteg, 1, 19.
Karakoram, 90.
Knife, Use of, 147.
King, Sir Seymour, 55.
L
La Bérarde, 25, 30.
La Meije, 30, 35, 36.
La Grave, 30.
Lady Climber, 105.
Lantern, Lines to, 18.
Laquinhorn, 112.
Larches, 5.
Lämmergeyer, 29, 84.
Lange Fluh, 107.
Lauterbrunnen, 69, 83.
Liddes, 96.
Lightning, 152.
Limestone rocks, 7.
Lizards, 2.
Lötschen Thal, 8, 84.
Lötschen Lücke, 84.
Lucas, Mr., 53.
Lucerne, 68.
Lys Pass, 9.
M
Mahsir Fish, 22.
Maquignaz, 62.
Martigny, 96.
Märjelen See, 81, 115.
Marmot, 29.
Mathews, Mr. C. E., 166.
Matterhorn, 10, 76, 102.
Mattmark, 107.
Meije, 30, 35.
Meiringen, 69.
Mer de Glace, 59.
Mischabeljoch, 105.
Mischabel Hörner, 110.
Mont Blanc, 43, 54.
Monte Rosa, 9.
Mt. Everest, 56.
Montenvers, 59, 86.
Mummery, Mr., 10.
Myers, Mr. F. W. H., 85.
Mountet, 44, 47, 79.
N
Nadelhorn, 112.
Nettleship, Mr., 85.
Neuchâtel, 91.
O
Obergestelen, 71.
Ober Gabelhorn, 78.
Ober Oeschinen Alp, 23.
Observatory, 57.
Oubliette, 25.
Oeschinen See, 4.
Oeschinen Valley, 117.
P
Pasteur, 34.
Paracelsus, 92.
Perren, Peter, 131.
Petersgrat, 7.
Phœnix balloon, 75.
Pic Bourcet, 41.
Pic central, 33.
Pines, 5.
Plantigrade foot, 127.
Portjengrat, 109.
Pointe des Ecrins, 27.
Prehensile hand, 123.
Q
Quinbus Flestrin, 76.
Quintino Sella, 55.
R
Rats, 46.
Randa, 51.
Reese, Dr., 152.
Rey, Emile, 12.
Rhone Valley, 68.
Riding, balance, 137.
Ried, 8, 84.
Rieder Furka, 104.
Riederhorn, 114.
Riffel, 63.
Robinson, Dr. L., 121.
Rodier, Hippolyte, 27.
Rothhorn, 113.
Rowing, 120.
S
Saas, 106, 107.
Sallanches, 90.
Sampson, Miss, 14.
Scaffolders, 157.
Schönbühl rock, 48.
Schwarzsee, 54.
Schalliberg, 51.
Sheideck, 69.
Seiler, Mr. Alex., 53, 101.
Selden, 7.
Sella, 55.
Shot-proof glasses, 163.
Shoehorn rock, 131.
Sickness on mountains, 72.
Sierre, 85.
Sion, 85.
Smith, Albert, 42.
Snake’s slough, 3, 21.
Sowerby’s forest cantons, 5.
Sparrenhorn, 113.
Spikes in boots, 40.
Staffel Alp, 51, 103.
Stalden, 70.
St. Bernard, Gt., 96.
St. Gervais, 87, 89.
St. Theodule, 99.
St. Rémy, 98.
Stephen, Mr. Leslie, 166.
Stiffness after riding, 139.
Stockje hut, 49.
Südlenzspitze, 109, 110.
Sunburn, 84.
T
Tabaketti, 106.
Täsch Alp, 104.
Täschhorn, 52.
Tête Noire, 63, 85.
Tête Rousses, 89.
Tongue, Injury to, 25.
Trees, 5, 154.
Triftjoch, 14, 79.
Truffer, Joseph, 23.
Tschingellochtighorn, 2.
Turc, Joseph, 33.
Tyndall, 102.
Tyndallgrat, 12.
V
Val d’Aosta, 54, 99.
Val d’Anniviers, 44.
Valtournanche, 54, 99.
Vallot’s observatory, 57.
Viper, 3, 21.
Visp, 72, 114.
Vizille, 25.
Vomiting, 72.
W
Weisshorn, 51.
White, Gilbert, 4.
Whymper, 16, 73.
Wills, Mr. Justice, 155.
Wind, 58, 65, 69.
X
Xaver Imseng, 113.
Y
Ystradgynlais, 152.
Z
Zermatt, 104.
Zinal, 44, 79.
Zmutt Valley, 78.
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