SCHOOL BOOKS AND MOUNTING.
The school book, perhaps the most despised branch of work in the
bindery, has unjustly come to be treated as a sort of step-child by
bookbinder and bookseller. Although everything has been cut down as
finely as possible as regards paper and printing, yet the cost of
binding must also be cut down, and a profit on the whole is still looked
for. Thus it is that school books can only be produced by machinery.
Folding, sewing, board cutting, trimming, and lettering are all done
exclusively by machinery. All finishing work, pressing, headbanding,
decorating the paper covers, have fallen off. The cover is always made
in advance and the book fixed into it. A good goat-skin is seldom used
for the back, almost always split sheep-skin, thereby also saving
paring, or the so-called split horse-hide. These latter are put on the
market in various colours and grains and are well suited for the work. A
third-rate marbled paper is used for covering, as prices are not given
for better kinds. A stout smooth paper is strongly recommended for end
papers.
Frequently, in the smaller towns, there are still produced Bible
histories, catechisms, and the like in half-leather bindings, tanned
sheep-skin, the sale of which is likely to be large and assured for many
years. The whole skin must be damped and well stretched previous to
cutting out, in order that it may be cut into backs to the best
advantage.
The backs are laid on top of each other and pressed out in the wooden
press between two old boards to remove all superfluous moisture. The
edges are then pared with a sharp knife, the backs pasted, laying every
two with pasted sides together to prevent their drying, and the books
fixed in the leather backs. For this purpose the books are set in boards
previously cut to size. In this case the books take tight backs; the
joints are well rubbed down with the folder.
Thinner volumes in cloth have likewise tight backs. The cloth for the
backs is cut into strips of handy length as wide as the length of the
backs must be, is glued and cut a suitable width with a knife upon the
cutting board, measuring with the eye. Recently, the so-called "taking
off," as practised in fancy goods work, has been adopted for the sake of
its cleaner and neater results in pasting and glueing covers. A large
zinc plate is coated with glue, neither too thick nor too thin, the
cover is laid face downwards and taken up, so that it is evenly coated
all over with the glue or paste. The work requires some practice, but it
is very quick and, above all, is neat and clean. The boards are laid
upon these strips by a worker (allowing for the thickness of the back),
turned in at top and bottom by a second worker, and the books at once
fixed in. The backs, still damp, fit very well to the books, the joints
are well rubbed in; covering and pasting on are done afterwards.
Where hand sewing must be done, the end papers should be first attached
to each first and last section, double in front, single at the end.
Sewing should never be upon two bands only but on three at least, better
upon four, so that the two middle ones can be changed each time. In
order to expedite the scraping of the bands, the threads are untwisted
before pulling out from each other, the loose end need not exceed 1-1/2
cm., as a long band holds no better than a short one, care being taken
that it is always firmly pasted down. The drawn-out volumes are placed
in batches on top of each other, all bands lying outwards. The
projecting ends are well brushed with a hard brush, which renders them
easy to scrape down. If it is intended to paste down the bands, the
whole of the ends might now be pasted, the books lifted off one by one,
and the bands pasted over on to the end paper. It is better to leave the
ends free and to paste down when glueing up. They then become more
thoroughly saturated with the paste and are pressed at once, and thus
join the boards so much better.
It may be mentioned that school books with tight backs are more lasting
than with hollow backs, no matter whether leather or cloth be used.
Mounted articles, _i.e._, placards, maps, drawings, &c., to be mounted
on boards or linen, are frequently sent to the ordinary bindery. Things
to be mounted on boards must be mounted whole, those that are to be
rolled up or folded are mounted on linen. Placards are generally printed
on very stout paper, and these should be well damped upon the back with
sponge and water before pasting, and only when the paper is perfectly
limp and stretched should the pasting be done, otherwise creases are
sure to be caused by the stretching of the paper after mounting. A piece
of packing paper the size of the placard to be mounted must also be
pasted upon the back of the mounting board to prevent the board from
"drawing." Only when the mounting is completed may the mount be cut to
size and, if necessary, bound.
Illustration: Binding corner.
This binding is done by marking with the dividers a border about 1-1/2
cm. wide along the trimmed edge and laying a pasted strip of coloured
paper and, turning it over, drawing it on to the back with a piece of
clean waste paper, and well rubbing down. At the corners the strip is
cut obliquely, as in the case of a book, nipped, and turned in. This is
done at the first two sides lying opposite to each other. At the other
side the strip is laid not quite up to the ends and cut with the shears
slightly obliquely, so that the finished corner appears as in the
accompanying illustration. Of course, when such work is done in large
quantities, another method is followed. For this the board would be cut
to size, back and front--1 cm. narrower and shorter--likewise, and the
boards bound beforehand. The strips are not turned in at the corners of
the first two sides, but the whole side is rubbed down and the ends cut
flush. The strips for the other two sides are cut to size, at the same
time cutting off the corners obliquely at both sides, then pasted and
drawn over the edges. When mounting on large surfaces, one person alone
is not able to do the work--there must be some one to render assistance.
Such large pieces are always rubbed down under a piece of stout paper.
As the hand cannot pass over the whole surface evenly and easily, a
large piece of waste paper rolled into a ball and held firmly in the
hand is used for rubbing down.
Fig. 123--Eyeleting machine.
The finished placard is placed between boards to dry. For hanging them,
either eyelets with rings as sold are used or two holes, about 5 cm.
apart, are punched with the eyelet pliers in the middle of the top edge
and eyelets clamped in with the punch pliers. For doing large quantities
it is advisable to procure a machine, the small Eyeleting machine,
which pierces and clamps the eyelet at the same time.
Mounting plates, plans, drawings, or maps on cloth is done in the
following way: Paper can only be properly mounted upon a very tightly
stretched linen or cotton material; linen being generally used in
England. Where such work is frequently to be done, so-called drawing
boards ought to be at hand. These are wooden boards, best when made to
fit into each other so that they can be enlarged to suit the work in
hand.
Figs. 124 to 127--Showing stages of pinning down for stretching.
The board must, of course, be perfectly clean on the stretching side,
otherwise the back of the mounted article would be soiled. If necessary,
the surface may be covered with waste paper before stretching. The
material should be left about 5 cm. larger all round for convenience of
stretching and working. The stretching is best done with drawing pins,
which may be used again and again for the same work. The method of
stretching is as follows: Woven fabrics stretch less in direction of the
warp than the woof, therefore stretching is begun in the former
direction. The material is fixed with pins at two corners of one side,
stretching it firmly at the same time. The material will be drawn
outwards a little on the stretched side (Fig. 124). To counteract this,
a pin is fixed in the middle of the opposite side, after having pulled
the material over so that the side _A_ forms a straight line. The whole
side _A_ is then pinned down, the pins not being more than 5 cm. apart
(Fig. 125).
Now draw out the pin on the _B_ side and pin down the whole side, firmly
stretching the material all the while, beginning at the middle and
working towards the sides (Fig. 126).
The third side is pinned down by first fixing a pin in the centre, then
in the centre of the halves to right and left, then proceeding with the
smaller divisions in the same fashion. The material is pulled far enough
to form a straight line (Fig. 127). The last side is well stretched and
pinned down as just described. In this way a surface not only entirely
free from wrinkles and creases is produced, but the texture of the
material will run straight.
In mounting upon cloth, special care must be taken that the paper is
perfectly limp and flexible; but this must not be due to its having been
too thickly coated with paste.
Large wall maps made up of many pieces must be very carefully damped and
must be allowed to lie damp a long time. Attention must be given to the
colours, which are apt to run, and also to the proper fitting of the
various pieces, as these have often been stretched in various ways in
the lithographic press, or through irregular drying have taken unequal
sizes. Damping and pasting must be repeated to help to remedy this until
the whole fits together perfectly.
Maps to be folded must be cut into sections of suitable size. In order
that they may fold together well, the various pieces are set slightly
apart, the horizontal lines slightly less (1-1/2 mm.), the longitudinal
somewhat more, where there are many parts up to 3 mm.
Perfect fitting is here essential, and to insure this it is advisable to
mark out the divisions with the folder and rule. This is not necessary
for small maps, the eye will then be sufficient guide. Thorough rubbing
down is absolutely necessary to make every part adhere.
When perfectly dry, the material is taken from the stretcher, the edges
accurately trimmed, and the map folded upon the cross lines into one
long strip, and then this strip is folded over in zigzag fashion to the
given size.
The appearance of such a map is greatly improved by sharply pressing
awhile, for which a zinc plate should be inserted between each fold.
Such maps are often placed in a small light case of cardboard covered
with cloth, or a light cover is made, into which the map is so pasted at
the back board that it lies ready for use when opened.
Paintings, drawings in colour, or wash drawings cause exceptional
difficulties, as the moisture of the pasting medium tends to dissolve or
make the colours run. In such cases smaller sheets are placed between
sheets of damp blotting paper, and it is stuck upon the pasted
underside. When the object permits it, it is glued on without previous
damping. Large tracings present the greatest difficulties as the paper
stretches very much and, on account of its delicacy, is not easily
manipulated and is liable to crease. Such work requires several hands.
It is necessary to have clear paste, quite free from knots, which has
been thinned to the consistency of thick pea-soup. When at all
practicable, the tracing itself is pasted twice, the first pasting will
make the paper stretch and the second ensures a proper coating of paste.
Two persons lift the tracing and turn it over (for very large pieces
four persons are required); the sheet is laid down at one corner, the
other three being held up, and the whole gently lowered little by
little. One person rubs it down slowly, proceeding from the first corner
and carefully avoiding creases and bubbles.
With such big jobs it is often impossible to avoid tears near where it
is held by the fingers of the workers unless timely precautions against
this are taken. The simplest way is to paste strips of paper and to
stick these on the four corners of the pasted side of the tracing and to
take hold of these. These strips are removed as the rubbing down
progresses, making sure, however, that there is still enough paste left
on these places.
Tracings are always mounted upon white paper, even though it has
afterwards to be cut or mounted on cloth.
Maps that have to be prepared for hanging on walls are always provided
with a roller at top and bottom; these may be stained and varnished or
covered with coloured paper. The mounted maps are glued and tacked to
the half-round rollers. Where all round rollers are used they should be
ordered in halves. The edges of the map are glued between and the two
halves then nailed together. Rings are screwed into the top roller for
hanging, and also a few tapes to tie up the rolled map if required.
Plates and maps, as also placards, are also varnished. Varnishing is
nowadays always done with spirit varnish, which is convenient for
working. All papers cannot be simply varnished and done with--the nature
of the paper must be taken into consideration. All sized and chromo
papers may be varnished without preparation. Many note-papers,
especially unsized and copperplate papers, must first be sized, which
prevents the resinous parts from penetrating and thus avoids grease
spots.
The best of all means is glue or gelatine; the former turns the paper
somewhat yellow. A thin solution is made, which is laid on warm with a
large sponge in long quick strokes. Where colour or ink is to be dealt
with, no parts should be touched twice or the colours will be effaced. A
second coating, however, may be given after the first has dried. The
spirit varnish to be used--called map or photo varnish--is still too
thick as sold. It is thinned with 90% spirit of wine to the required
consistency until it runs easily from the brush.
Wide varnish brushes with lead fastenings are used. Two coats of thin
varnish are better than one coat of thick.
CONCLUSION.
Our work is now finished. The author has endeavoured to deal only with
what comes within the sphere of practical bookbinding.
At the present time there is a sharp dividing line drawn between what we
may call the practical and artistic bookbinding. To whatever height of
perfection the latter may still reach, it only begins where the
practical bookbinder has completed his work faultless in every detail. A
bad binding does not become a work of art when it has had its exterior
artistically decorated, it rather calls forth condemnation on its bad
forwarding and wasted skill in finishing.
Yet in spite of the separation of the practical from the artistic in
binding, it could hardly be possible--where the two are so closely
connected--that the latter should not now and then be touched upon.
Should the intention of issuing a book on artistic binding in form
similar to this be carried out, it would also be necessary to refer
occasionally to the practical side of binding.
To-day we look in vain in the ordinary bindery for the many little extra
jobs which, formerly, were the largest portion of the work in artistic
binding. All the little jewel cases, card cases, cigar cases, &c., which
made the winter months of the binder--as late as the sixties and
seventies--the busiest and most profitable months of the year, have
vanished from our workshops, as also have the mounting, &c., of
embroideries and women's work. As a result, the number of those able to
execute these minor works of the art binder has grown smaller. This
branch of work, which at one time seemed inseparable from our trade, has
partly become a separate industry in itself and has partly been drawn
into other special trades where the work can be done better and cheaper
by other means.
Therefore the lettering of portable articles--spectacle cases, cigar
cases, purses, pocket-books--is no longer done; such things--where they
are not made to stock--are made by the leather worker, this also having
passed away from the binder. This continual loss of work originally
ours--not marked by decades now but by still shorter intervals--should
make all bookbinders reflect. The question no longer is "How to prevent
it?" but the more far-reaching one: "How to face the fact?" The only
possible way is for every master bookbinder--having regard to prevailing
conditions--to immediately put all his skill and energy into some
special branch of the trade. With this good counsel we would like to
send forth this little book.
At the present time there are few small towns indeed where one day 50
cloth cases have to be turned out, to-morrow half a dozen books to be
bound in half-calf extra, next day 50 fancy boxes, and then, perhaps, a
few fine velvet-covered cases.
Should there really be found such conditions still existing, no workman
would be found--owing to our modern system of training--able and willing
to work under such conditions.
Those possessing the essentials in an art craftsman--infinite pains,
neatness and exactness--are sure to make rapid progress. What is still
required--an eye for colour and good taste--are easily acquired, for
much of the bookbinder's work is based on experience and example.
He who sees much, especially new things, will soon be able to reproduce
the things seen, and will, moreover, soon learn to distinguish between
good and bad. About taste, so-called, it is not worth while arguing, as
taste is mostly dictated by fashion and is often fashionable folly. The
thoughtful craftsman, however, should be quite clear as to the
principles determining what is to be permitted and what rejected in his
own work; for the rest he may follow the lead of fashion--he must, in
fact, if his work lies much in that way.
Our conclusion may, therefore, be summed up in these words:--
Let the most painstaking neatness and thoroughness be the masters of
each one.
No man can do everything; he who can do something well, does most.
THE END.
INDEX.
PAGE.
Account books, 157
Alum wash for marbling, 72
Aluminium, 7
Armenian bole, 8, 75
Back, tooling on, 147
Backs, lining up, 120
Backs for account books, 162
Backing, 58
Backing machine, 11, 59
Bands, treatment of, 87, 90
Beating, 30
Bindery, arrangement of, 9
Blind tooling, 130
Blocking, 103
Blocking press, 11, 105
Blood serum, preparation of, 81
Blood serum for blocking, 112
Boards, 5
Boards for account books, 160
Board cutting, 86
Board-cutting machine, 10
Boarding, 87
Boarding account books, 163
Bole, 8
Bole for edges, 75
Book-mark, 8
Bouquet marbling, 69
Bronze, 7
Bronze, blocking in, 117
Brushes for glue, paste, &c., 3
Burnishing gilt edges, 77
Calf, 6
" preparation for blocking, 110
" treatment in finishing, 142
Carrageen moss for marbling, 64
Case to protect book, 155
Case work, 93, 95
Celluloid, 7
Clasps, 8
Cloth joints, 45
Cloth, treatment in finishing, 142
Clothing-up account books, 159
Collating, 28
Colour blocking, 115
Coloured edges, 63
Comb marbling, 68
Cord for sewing, 4
Cords, distribution of, 42
Corner punching machine, 11
Corners, 96, 100
Counting off, 18
Covering, 119
Cowhide, 6
Crushed morocco, 6
Dextrine, 3
Doublure, 153
Drawings, mounting, 171
Dust-proof flaps, 168
Edges, colouring, 7
" finishing, 62
" marbling, 7
Edges of boards, tooling, 153
End papers, 5, 43, 127
" for account books, 158
" pasting down, 124
End-to-end sewing, 49
Eyeleting, 172
Eyeleting machine, 11
Eye marbling, 69
Fillet, use of, 144
Finishing, 129
Finisher's tools, 10
Folding, 13
Forwarding, 13
French marbling, 71
Gathering, 20, 28
Gelatine, 3
Gelatine size for blocking, 111
Gilder's tip, 75
Gilding edges, 73
" powder, 142
" powder for blocking, 111
Glair, 8
Glair for blocking, 111
" finishing, 135
" gilt edges, 76
Glue, 2
Glue-brush, 3
Glue-pot, 3
Glueing-up, 51
Glueing-up account books, 163
Gold, 7
" cushion, 75
" knife, 75
" leaf, laying on, 75, 80
" substitute for, 81
Gouge, use of, 143
Grey boards, 5
Guards, 44
Guards for plates and maps, 24
Guard-books, 165
Guillotine, 10
Gum, 3
Gum tragacanth, 141
" for marbling, 65
Head and tail, 16
" tooling, 153
" turning in, 121
Headband, 8, 81
Headbands for account books, 160
Heat applied in blocking, 113
" of tools in finishing, 137, 141
Hollaendering, 32
Hollow backs, 87
Imitation raised bands, 119
Index cutting, &c., 166
Inset, 17
Insides, tooling, 153
Isinglass, 3
Jigger, use of, 154
Joint, 44
Kettle stitch, 49
Knocking-up, 18
Kremser marbling, 71
Laying on gold leaf, 112
Leather used in binding, 6, 100
" paring, 97
" preparation for finishing, 140
" boards, 5, 85
Lettering, 148
" in blocking, 108
Levant morocco, 6
Linen joints, 45
Lining for case work, 102
Machine sewing, 4
Maps, mounting, 171
" pasting in, 23
" rollers for, 176
Marble papers, 5
Marbled edges, 7, 63
Metal corners, 164
" fastenings, 9
Metric system, vi.
Middles, 5
Millboards, 85
Morocco, 6
" treatment for finishing, 142
Mounting, 171
Numbering machine, 165
Overcasting, 39
Overcast end papers, 46
Oxgall for marbling, 66
Paring leather, 97
Paste, 1
Paste-edge, 63
Pasting, 22
" boards, 3
" down, 124
Peacock marbling, 69
Pig-skin, treatment for finishing, 142
Plates, folding, 26
" pasting in, 23
Plough, 55
Portfolios, 167
Presses, 10
Pressing, 19
Pulling to pieces, 36
Quires, books in, 16
Re-binding, 36
Register in folding, 14
Relief blocking, 114
Repairing, 36
Roll, use of, 136, 145
Rolling, 29
" machine, 11, 31
Rounding, 57
" machine, 11, 58
Russia leather, treatment for finishing, 142
Sawing-in, 41
" machine, 43
School books, 169
Scraping edges for gilding, 74, 79
Seal skin, treatment for finishing, 142
Sewing, 40, 46
" for account books, 159
" cord, 4
" frame, 33
" machine, 52
" tapes, 4
" thread, 34
Sheep skin, treatment for finishing, 142
Sides, 101
Signatures, 13
Silk end papers, 6
Size for
" blocking, 110
" old leather, 140
" for various materials, 142
Spring back, 88
Sprinkled edges, 62
Squares, 86
" tooling, 153
Straw-boards, 5, 85
Tape, sewing, 4
Thread, sewing, 4
Tools, 9
Tracings, mounting, 175
Trichinal marbling, 71
Trimming, 54
Turkish marbling, 70
Turning-in, 96, 121
" on account books, 164
Two-sheets-on sewing, 49
Tying up, 123
Varnish, 8
Varnishing maps, &c., 176
Vellum, treatment for finishing, 142
Velvet, 6
White of egg, _see_ Glair.
Wire sewing and stapling, 4, 35
Wire sewing and stapling machines, 11, 35, 52
Wooden boards, 5
ENGRAVING FOR ILLUSTRATION. HISTORICAL AND PRACTICAL NOTES.
By JOSEPH KIRKBRIDE.
Crown 8vo. 72 pp. 2 Plates. 6 Illustrations. 1903.
Price 2s.6d.; Abroad 3s. Strictly Net.
* * * * *
GLUE AND GLUE-TESTING. By SAMUEL RIDEAL, D.Sc. Lond.
14 Illustrations. 144 Pages. Demy 8vo. 1900.
Price 10s.6d.; India and British Colonies, 11s.;
Other Countries, 12s. Strictly Net.
* * * * *
SEALING-WAXES, WAFERS, AND OTHER ADHESIVES
For the Household, Office, Workshop, and Factory.
By H. C. STANDAGE.
Crown 8vo. 96 Pages. 1902.
Price 5s.; India and British Colonies, 5s.6d.;
Other Countries, 6s. Strictly Net.
* * * * *
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