A Walk--Carperby--Despotic Hay-time--Bolton Castle--The Village
--Queen Mary's Prison--Redmire--Scarthe Nick--Pleasing
Landscape--Halfpenny House--Hart-Leap Well--View into Swaledale
--Richmond--The Castle--Historic Names--The Keep--St. Martin's
Cell--Easby Abbey--Beautiful Ruins--King Arthur and Sleeping
Warriors--Ripon--View from the Minster Tower--Archbishop
Wilfrid--The Crypt--The Nightly Horn--To Studley--Surprising
Trick--Robin Hood's Well--Fountains Abbey--Pop goes the Weasel
--The Ruins--Robin Hood and the Curtall Friar--To Thirsk--The
Ancient Elm--Epitaphs.
My friend had for some time wished to look into Swaledale; he therefore
accompanied me the next morning, as far as the route served, through the
village of Carperby, where dwells a Quaker who has the best grazing farm
in the North Riding. We passed without calling, for he must be a
philosopher indeed, here in the dales, who can endure interruptions in
hay-time, when all who can work are busy in the fields. Ask no man to
lend you a horse or labourer in hay-time. Servants give themselves leave
in hay-time, and go toiling in the sunshine till all the crop is led,
earning as much out of doors in three or four weeks as in six months
in-doors. What is it to them that the mistress has to buckle-to, and be
her own servant for a while, and see to the washing, and make the bread?
as I saw in my friend's house, knowing that in case of failure the
nearest place where a joint of meat or a loaf of bread can be got is at
Hawes, eight miles distant. What is it to them? the hay must be made,
whether or not.
A few light showers fell, refreshing the thirsty soil, and making the
trees and hedgerows rejoice in a livelier green. It was as if Summer
were overjoyed:
"Even when she weeps, as oft she will, though surely not for grief,
Her tears are turned to diamond drops on every shining leaf."
so our walk of four miles to Bolton Castle was the more agreeable. The
old square building, with its four square towers rising above a mass of
wood, looks well as you approach from the road; and when you come upon
the eminence on which it stands, and see the little village of Bolton,
little thatched cottages bordering the green, as old in appearance as
the castle, it is as if you looked on a scene from the feudal ages--the
rude dwellings of the serfs pitched for safety beneath the walls, as in
the days of Richard Lord Scrope, who built the castle four hundred years
ago. A considerable portion of the edifice is still habitable; some of
the rooms look really comfortable; others are let as workshops to a
tinker and glazier, and down in the vaults you see the apparatus for
casting sheet-lead. We saw the room in which the hapless Mary was
confined, and the window by which, as is said, she tried, but failed, to
escape. We went to the top, and looked over into the inner court; and
got a bird's-eye view of the village and of Bolton Park and Hall, amid
the wooded landscape; and then to the bottom, down damp stone stairs, to
what seemed the lowest vault, where, however, there was a lower
depth--the dungeon--into which we descended by a ladder. What a dismal
abode! of gloom too dense for one feeble candle to enliven. The man who
showed the way said there was a well in one corner; but I saw nothing
except that that spot looked blacker than the rest. To think that such a
prison should have been built in the "good old times!"
On leaving the village, an old woman gave me a touch of the broadest
dialect I had yet heard: "Eh! is ye boun into Swawldawl?" she exclaimed,
in reply to my inquiry. We were going into Swaledale, and, taking a
byeway above the village of Redmire, soon came to a road leading up the
dale to Reeth, into which my friend turned, while I went on to the
northern slope of Wensleydale. You ascend by a steep, winding road to
Scarthe Nick, the pass on the summit, and there you have a glorious
prospect--many a league of hill and hollow, of moor and meadow. From
Bolton Castle and its little dependency, which lie well under the eye,
you can look down the dale and catch sight of the ruined towers of
Middleham; Aysgarth Force reveals itself by a momentary quivering flash;
and scattered around, seven churches and eight villages, more or less
environed by woods, complete the landscape. The scene, with its wealth
of quiet beauty, is one suggestive of peace and well-being, dear to the
Englishman's heart. To one coming suddenly upon it from the dreary
moorlands which lie between Wensleydale and Richmond, there would be
something of enchantment in the far-spreading view.
I turned my back on it at last, and followed the road across the moors,
where the memory of what you have just left becomes fairer by contrast.
The route is solitary, and apparently but little frequented, for in ten
miles I met only a man and a boy; and the monotony is only relieved
after a while by a falling away of the brown slopes on the right,
opening a view of the Hambleton Hills. There is one public-house on the
way, the _Halfpenny House_, down in a hollow, by no means an agreeable
resting-place, especially for a hungry man with a liking for
cleanliness. Not far from it is Hart-Leap Well, sung by Wordsworth:
"There's neither dog nor heifer, horse nor sheep,
Will wet his lips within that cup of stone;
And oftentimes when all are fast asleep,
This water doth send forth a dolorous groan."
By-and-by, perhaps, ere you have done thinking of the poem, you come to
the brow of a long declivity, the end of the moors, and are rewarded by
a view which rivals that seen from Scarthe Nick. Swaledale opens before
you, overspread with waving fields of grain, with numerous farmsteads
scattered up and down, with a long range of cliff breaking the opposite
slope, and, about four miles distant, Richmond on its lofty seat,
crowned by the square castle-keep, tall and massive. I saw it lit by the
afternoon sun, and needed no better invitation for a half-hour's halt on
the heathery bank.
You descend to the wheat-fields, and see no more of the town until close
upon it. Swale, as you will notice while crossing the bridge, still
shows the characteristics of a mountain stream, though broader and
deeper than at Thwaite, where we last parted company with it. Very steep
is the grass-grown street leading from the river up to the main part of
the town, where, having found a comfortable public-house, I went at once
to the castle. It occupies the summit of a bluff, which, rising bold and
high from the Swale, commands a noble prospect over what Whitaker calls
"the Piedmont of Richmondshire." On the side towards the river, the
walls are all broken and ruinous, with here and there a loophole or
window opening, through which you may look abroad on the landscape, and
ponder on the changes which have befallen since Alan the Red built a
fortress here on the lands given to him in reward for prowess by the
Conqueror. It was in 1071 that he began to fortify, and portions of his
masonry yet remain, fringed with ivy and tufts of grass, and here and
there the bugloss growing from the crevices. Perhaps while you saunter
to and fro in the castle-garth the keeper will appear and tell
you--though not without leave--his story of the ruins. If it will add to
your pleasure, he will show you the spot where George IV. sat when
Prince of Wales, and declared the prospect to be the finest he had ever
beheld. You will be told which is Robin Hood's Tower, which the Gold
Tower--so called because of a tradition that treasure was once
discovered therein--and which is Scolland's Hall, where knights, and
nobles, and high-born dames held their banquets. And here you will be
reminded of Fitzhughs and Marmions, Randolph de Glanville, and William
the Lion, of Nevilles and Scropes, and of the Lennox--a natural son of
Charles II.--to whom the dukedom of Richmond was given by the merry
monarch, and to whose descendants it still belongs.
One side of the garth is enclosed by a new building to be used as
barracks or a military depot, and near this, at the angle towards the
town, rises the keep. What a mighty tower it is! ninety-nine feet high,
the walls eleven feet thick, strengthened on all sides by straight
buttresses, an impressive memorial of the Normans. It was built by Earl
Conan, seventy-five years after Red Alan's bastions. The lowest chamber
is dark and vaulted, with the rings still remaining to which the lamps
were hung, and a floor of natural rock pierced by the old well. The
chief entrance is now on the first floor, to which you mount by an outer
stair, and the first things you see on entering are the arms and
accoutrements of the Yorkshire militia, all carefully arranged. The view
from the top delights your eye by its variety and extent--a great sweep
of green hills and woods, the winding dale, and beyond, the brown
heights that stretch away to the mountains. You see the town and all its
picturesque features: the towers of St. Mary's and of the old Gray
Friars' monastery, and Trinity Chapel at one side of the market-place,
now desecrated by an intrusion of petty merchandise. And, following the
course of the river downwards, you can see in the meadows among the
woods the ruins of the Abbey of St. Agatha, at Easby. A few miles
farther, and the stream flows past Catterick, the Cattaractonium of the
Romans; and Bolton-on-Swale, the burial-place of old Jenkins.
On leaving the castle, make your way down to the path which runs round
the face of the precipice below the walls, yet high enough above the
river for pleasing views: a good place for an evening stroll. Then
descend to a lower level, and look back from the new bridge near the
railway station; you will be charmed with the singularly picturesque
view of the town, clustered all along the hill-top, and terminated by
the imposing mass of ruins and the lordly keep. And there is something
to be seen near at hand: the station, built in Gothic style, pleasantly
situate among trees; St. Martin's Cell, founded more than seven hundred
years ago, now sadly dilapidated, and used as a cow-stall. Beyond, on
the slope of the hill, stands the parish church, with a fine lofty
tower; and near it are the old grammar school, famous for good scholars;
and the Tate Testimonial, a handsome Gothic edifice, with cloisters,
where the boys play in rainy weather. It was in that churchyard that
Herbert Knowles wrote the poem
"Methinks it is good to be here,"
which has long kept his name in memory.
Turn into the path on the left near the bridge, follow it through the
wood which hangs on the slope above the river, then between the meadows
and gardens, and past the mill, and you come to Easby Abbey, a charming
ruin in a charming spot. You see a gentle eminence, rich in noble
trees--the "abbot's elm" among them--with a mansion on the summit, and
in the meadow at the foot the group of ruins, not so far from the river
but that you can hear it murmuring briskly along its stony channel. They
occupy a considerable space, and the longer you wander from kitchen to
refectory, from oratory to chapter-house, under broken arches, from one
weedy heap of masonry to another, the more will you become aware of
their picturesque beauties. The effect is heightened by magnificent
masses of ivy, and trees growing out from the gaping stones, and about
the grounds, screening and softening the ancient walls with quivering
verdure. Here, for centuries, was the burial-place of the Scropes, that
powerful family who became possessors of Easby not long after the death
of Roald, constable of Richmond, founder of the abbey in 1152. Hence the
historical associations impart a deeper interest to the loveliness of
nature and the beauty of architecture.
The gate-house, also mantled with ivy, stands isolated in the meadow
beyond, and Easby church between it and the ruins. And a pretty little
church it is--a very jewel. Ivy creeps over it, and apparently through
it, for a thick stem grows out of the wall three feet from the ground.
Above the porch you may see three carved shields, time-worn memorials of
Conyers, Aske, and Scrope.
To linger here while the sun went down, and the shadows darkened behind
the walls, and the glory streamed through the blank windows, was a rare
enjoyment. It was dusk when I returned to the town, and there I finished
with another stroll on the path under the castle, thinking of the
ancient legend, and wishing for a peep at the mysterious vault where
King Arthur's warriors lie asleep. Long, long ago, a man, while
wandering about the hill, was conducted into an underground vault by a
mysterious personage, and there he saw to his amazement a great
multitude lying in deep slumber. Ere he recovered, his guide placed in
his hands a horn and a sword; he drew the blade half out of the sheath,
when lo! every sleeper stirred as if about to awake, and the poor
mortal, terror-stricken, loosed his hold, the sword slid back, and the
opportunity of release was lost, to recur no more for many a long day.
The unlucky wight heard as he crept forth a bitter voice crying:
"Potter, Potter Thompson!
If thou had either drawn
The sword or blown that horn,
Thou'd been the luckiest man
That ever was born."
By nine o'clock the next morning I was in Ripon, having been obliged to
content myself with a glimpse of Northallerton from the railway; and to
forego a ramble to the Standard Hill. I was soon on the top of the
minster tower looking abroad on the course of the Ure, no longer a dale,
as where we last saw it, but a broad vale teeming with corn, and adorned
with woods, conspicuous among which are the broad forest-like masses of
Studley Royal--the site of Fountains Abbey. Norton Conyers, the seat of
the Nortons, whose names figure in Wordsworth's poem, lies a few miles
up the stream; and a few miles in the other direction are Boroughbridge
and Aldborough, once important British and Roman stations. There the
base Cartismandua, betrayer of Caractacus, held her court? there the
vast rude camp of the legions grew into a sumptuous city; and there was
fought one of the battles of the Roses, fatal to Lancaster; and there
for years was a stronghold of the boroughmongers. The horizon no longer
shows a ring of bleak moorlands, but green swells and wood all round to
the east, where the hills of Cleveland terminate the view.
Then, while sauntering on the floor of the stately edifice we may
remember that in 661 the King of Northumbria gave a piece of land here
to one of his abbots for the foundation of a religious house: that
Wilfrid, the learned bishop, replaced the first modest structure by a
magnificent monastery, which the heathen Danes burnt and wasted in 860;
but Wilfrid, who was presently created Archbishop of York, soon rebuilt
his church, surpassing the former in magnificence, and by his learning
and resolute assertion of his rights won, for himself great honour, and
a festival day in the calendar. The anniversary of his return from Rome
whither he went to claim his privileges, is still celebrated in Ripon,
by a procession as little accordant with modern notions as that which
perpetuates Peeping Tom's infamous memory at Coventry. The present
edifice was built by Roger of Bishopbridge, Archbishop of York in the
twelfth century, and renowned for his munificence; but the variations of
style--two characters of Norman, and Perpendicular, and a medley in the
window, still show how much of the oldest edifice was incorporated with
the new, and the alterations at different times.
The crypt is believed to be a portion of the church built by Wilfrid; to
reach it you must pass through narrow, darksome passages, and when
there, the guide will not fail to show you the hole known as Wilfrid's
needle--a needle of properties as marvellous as the garment offered to
the ladies of King Arthur's court--for no unchaste maiden can pass
through the eye. The bone-house and a vault, walled and paved with human
bones, still exists; and the guide, availing himself of a few
extraordinary specimens, still delivers his lecture surrounded by
ghastly accompaniments.
Without seeing the minster, you would guess Ripon to be a cathedral
town; it has the quiet, respectable air which befits the superiorities
of the church. The market cross is a tall obelisk, and if you happen to
be near it at nine in the evening, you will, perhaps, think of the
sonorous custom at Bainbridge, for one of the constables blows three
blasts on the horn every night at the mayor's door, and three more by
the market cross. And so the days of Victoria witness a custom said to
have been begun in the days of Alfred. The horn is an important
instrument in Ripon; it was brought out and worn on feasts and
ceremonial days by the "wakeman," or a serjeant; certain of the mayors
have taken pride in beautifying it, and supplying a new belt, and the
town arms show a golden horn and black belt ornamented with silver.
At Beverley there are few signs of visitors; here, many, attracted by
Fountains Abbey. Carriage after carriage laden with sight-seers rattled
past as I walked to Studley, a distance of nearly three miles. Even at
the toll-bar on the way you can buy guide-books, as well as ginger-beer.
Beyond the gate you may leave the road for a field-path, which crosses
the street of Studley, and brings you to a short cut through the park.
Soon we come to the magnificent beechen avenue, and standing at the
upper end we see a long green walk, with the minster in the distance,
and beyond that the dark wold. Then by another avenue on the left we
approach the lake and the lodge, where you enter your name in a book,
pay a shilling, and are handed over, with the party that happens to be
waiting, to the care of a guide. He leads you along broad gravelled
paths, between slopes of smooth green turf, flower-beds, shrubberies,
rock work, and plantations, to vistas terminated by statues, temples,
and lakes filled with coffee-coloured water. To me, the trees seemed
more beautiful than anything else; and fancy architecture looked poor by
the side of tall beeches, larches, and magnificent Norway pines. And I
could not help wishing that Earl de Grey, to whom the estate belongs,
would abolish the puerile theatrical trick called _The Surprise_.
Arrived on the brow of an eminence, which overlooks the valley of the
little river Skell, you are required to stand two or three yards in the
rear of a wooden screen. Then the guide, with a few words purporting,
"Now, you shall see what you shall see," throws open the doors of the
screen, and Fountains Abbey appears in the hollow below. As if the view
of such a ruin could be improved by artifice!
Then a descent to Robin Hood's Well--a spring of delicious water, which
you will hardly pass without quaffing a draught to the memory of the
merry outlaw. And now we are near the ruin, and, favoured by the
elevation of the path, can overlook at once all the ground plan, the
abbot's quarters--under which the Skell flows through an arched
channel--the dormitory, the refectory, the lofty arches of the church,
and the noble tower rising to a height of one hundred and sixty-six
feet.
We were admiring the great extent and picturesque effects of the ruins,
when a harsh whistle among the trees on the left struck up _Pop goes the
Weasel_; singularly discordant in such a place. I could not help saying
that the whistler deserved banishment, to the edge of the park at
least--when the guide answered, "Yes, but he blows the whistle with his
nose." If Earl de Grey would abolish that nosing of a vulgar melody, as
well as _The Surprise_, many a visitor would feel grateful.
Presently we cross the bridge, and there are the yew-trees, one of which
sheltered the pious monks, who, scandalized by the lax discipline of the
brethren in the Benedictine Abbey of St. Mary's, at York, separated from
them, migrated hither in December, 1132, and lived for some months,
enduring great privations, with no other roof but the trees. Skelldale
was then a wild and desolate spot; but the Cistercians persevered;
Thurstan befriended them, and in course of years one of the grandest
monastic piles that England could boast arose in the meadow bordering
the narrow stream. Its roll of abbots numbers thirty-nine names, some of
high distinction, whose tombs may yet be seen.
After taking you aside to look at Fountains Hall, a Tudor mansion, the
guide leads the way to the cloisters, and, unlocking a door, admits you
to the interior of the ruins. The view of the nave, with its Norman
pillars and arches extending for nearly two hundred feet, is remarkably
imposing; and as you pace slowly over the soft green carpet into the
transept, thence to the choir and Lady chapel, each more beautiful than
the last, you experience unwonted emotions of delight and surprise.
Once within the Lady chapel, you will hardly care to leave it for any
other portion of the ruins, until the door is unlocked for departure.
The return route is on the opposite side of the valley to that by which
you approach. From a hollow in the cliff, a little way on, you may, on
turning to take a last look of the ruins, waken a clearly articulate
echo; but, alas! the lurking voice is made to utter overmuch nonsense.
What would the devout monks say could they hear it? However, if history
is to be depended on, even they were not perfect; for towards the close
of their career, they fell into evil ways, and became a reproach. As we
read:
"In summer time, when leaves grow green,
And flowers are fresh and gay,
Robin Hood and his merry men
Were disposed to play."
And when Robin, overjoyed at Little John's skill, exclaims that he would
ride a hundred miles to find one to match him,
"That caused Will Scadlocke to laugh,
He laught full heartily:
There lives a curtall fryer in Fountaines Abbey
Will beate both him and thee."
A right sturdy friar, who with his fifty dogs kept Robin and his fifty
men at bay, until Little John's shooting brought him to terms:
"This curtall fryer had kept Fountaines dale
Seven long yeares and more,
There was neither knight, lord, nor earle
Could make him yeeld before."
Of old Jenkins, it is recorded that he was once steward to Lord Conyers,
who used to send him at times with a message to the Abbot of Fountains
Abbey; and that the abbot always gave him, "besides wassel, a quarter of
a yard of roast beef for his dinner, and a great black jack of strong
beer." The Abbot of Fountains was one of three Yorkshire abbots beheaded
on Tower-hill for their share in the _Pilgrimage of Grace_.
Judging from the one to whom we were allotted, the guides are civil, and
not uninformed as to the traditions and history of Studley Royal and its
neighbourhood. They are instructed not to lose sight of their party, and
to conduct them only by the prescribed paths. So there is no
opportunity for wandering at will, or a leisurely meditation among the
ruins.
I walked back to the railway-station at Ripon, and journeyed thence to
Thirsk, where a pleasant stroll finished the evening. Of the castle of
the Mowbrays--the rendezvous of the English troops when marching to the
Battle of the Standard--the site alone remains on the south-west of the
town. The chantry, founded by one of the Mowbrays in Old Thirsk, has
also disappeared. And the great tree that stood on the green in the same
suburb has gone too. It was under the tree on Thirsk green, and not at
Topcliffe, as some say, that the fourth Earl Percy was massacred;
certain it is, that the elections of members to serve in Parliament were
held under the wide-spreading branches even from the earliest times. It
was burnt down in 1818 by a party of boys who lit a fire in the hollow
trunk. But the ugly old shambles had not disappeared from the
market-place: their destruction, however, so said the bookseller, was
imminent.
The church, dating from the fifteenth century, has recently been
restored, and well repays an examination. Among the epitaphs on the
tombstones, I noticed a variation of the old familiar strain:
Afflictions sore he long time bore,
Which wore his strength away,
That made him long for heavenly rest
Which never will decay.
And another, a curiosity in its way:
Corruption, Earth, and worms,
Shall but refine this flesh,
Till my triumphant spirit comes
To put it on A fresh.