A few days prior to my departure the village worthies prepared a

fish-supper in my honor. The Tamish fishermen cooked it in their

traditional way over a wood fire burning under the open sky. The

little supper-party reached the fishermen’s hut on the bank of the

Tamish River just about sunset. The western sky was all aglow with the

golden light of the parting day, and so was the surface of the tranquil

Tamish River, made luminous by the image of the western sky. The

rest of the landscape looked dark by contrast, excepting the glowing

faces of the patient supper-party, who sat around the busy fires and

watched the boiling kettles and the broiling pans. At some distance,

and standing at the very end of a fisherman’s barge, was the dark

silhouette of a tall young shepherd, who stood there lonely like some

solitary dark spectre hovering over the golden surface of the Tamish

River. It was just the spot for one who sought seclusion and longed

for quiet meditation. No ripple in the water or in the air disturbed

his dreams, if he had any, and I thought that he had. His sheep had

been watered, and he had finished his frugal supper long ago, before

the light of the day had retired below the distant horizon line of the

Banat plains. The silence of the approaching night awakened emotions

which only his tuneful flute could express, and suddenly he poured his

soul into a melody which surely was not addressed to mere phantoms

of the vacuous space. I felt that the quivering air was conveying

through the evening silence a message of love to some maiden, who was

perhaps just then spinning under some thatched roof of drowsy Idvor and

thinking of him. The priest approached me to tell me that the fish was

ready and that the feast would soon begin. I told him that my feast

had already begun and called his attention to the heavenly melody. He

said: “Oh, that’s Gabriel, the son of my neighbor Milutin. He entered

the village school when you left Idvor, and he finished it long ago.

He will be married on St. Michael’s day, and what you hear now is his

sefdalia (song of sighs) for his future bride, who is over there in our

drowsy village.” When he jokingly suggested that I might be looking

forward to the enjoyment of the sweets of simple pastoral life which

were in store for Gabriel, if I had not turned my back on Idvor eleven

years before, I answered that perhaps it was not too late to correct

the error. The priest looked astonished, and asked me whether I had

crossed and recrossed the Atlantic in order to become a shepherd of

Idvor. I said nothing, but I knew that Gabriel’s melody had disclosed

to me another world in which the question “What is Light?” is by no

means the most important question. There were other great questions of

human life, the answers to which can perhaps be found in Idvor without

a knowledge of Maxwell’s electrical theory.

VI

STUDIES AT THE UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE

A long-continued struggle with no let-up will wreck a feeble

constitution. It produces in a strong and healthy constitution a

tuning-up of continuously rising pitch under the tension of which even

the strongest constitution may snap in two. My struggle had been going

on for nine years when I was returning to Europe on my way to Idvor,

hence my pitch was very high. Nervous tension resulting in a lack of

poise was the diagnosis of my ailment, according to my English friend

in Lucerne, who urged me to abandon the exploration of the beauties

of the Alps and seek the solitude of my native village; otherwise, he

said, not even all the guardian angels in heaven could prevent me from

breaking my neck. A two months’ vacation in the soporific atmosphere

of Idvor was a blessing; my pitch was lowered through several octaves,

and I did not vibrate violently in response to every impulse that came

along. I recognized, for instance, that the Serbs of the Voyvodina

could wait a little longer for their political salvation, which I

confidently expected from their adoption of the American point of view.

I also recognized that to many human beings a knowledge of the modern

theories of physics was not indispensable to happiness. There was not

a single person in Idvor who cared two straws about these things, and

yet most of these good people were happy, as, for instance, Gabriel,

who was to be married on St. Michael’s day. Gabriel did not know much,

I said to myself, but the little knowledge he had was very definite.

He knew that he loved the girl he was about to marry, and he also knew

that his life, following in the footsteps of his peasant ancestors,

had a definite object in view which, as everybody in his village knew,

was easily attainable. I knew more than Gabriel did, but my knowledge

was not as definite as his. My aim in life was, I thought, much higher

than his; but was it attainable? And, if attainable, was it worth the

struggle? Two months earlier such a question could not have occurred to

me even in a dream. But Gabriel’s melody and the dreamy atmosphere of

Idvor suggested it.

My mother observed that a change had occurred, but she was not alarmed.

I spoke less often of my future plans, and was less anxious about my

departure for Cambridge. The wedding celebrations in my native Banat

were already ushered in by the gay autumn season, and the beautiful

kolo dancers, whirling around the merry bagpipes, engaged my interest

much more than when I had come to Idvor two months before. One evening

my mother recalled an incident which happened in my early boyhood days

and which I remembered well. She said something like this:

“Do you remember when Bukovala’s mill with its high conical roof was

rethatched?” I said, “Yes,” and she continued: “You were then a little

shaver, but you certainly remember still the shining tin star which the

workmen had planted upon the top of the conical roof after they had

finished their work of thatching. The children of Idvor thought that

it was a real star from heaven; it looked so bright when the sunlight

was shining upon it. One day the tin star disappeared, and everybody

wondered how anybody could have climbed up that smooth and steep roof

and taken the star away. Old Lyubomir, who loved you so dearly and

delighted in making sheepskin coats for you, was sure that it was you,

and he suggested that special prayers of thanksgiving be read in church

for your miraculous escape. Old Lyubomir was right, as you know, and

I always believed that God had saved you for a mission in life much

higher than that of young Gabriel, whose happy lot you seem to envy.

Blessed America has taught you how to climb a roof much steeper than

that of Bukovala’s mill, and on its top and all the way up to it you

will find many a real star from heaven. You are not far from the top

and you cannot stop nor turn back now any more than you could when you

saw the peak of Titlis in the distance, but felt too fatigued to finish

your climb. Gabriel’s magic flute and his mellow sefdalia, song of

sighs, have turned your thoughts to things which are now in everybody’s

mind: to wedding-feasts and kolo dancing, and to other diversions which

fill the hearts of Idvor’s youth during this merry autumn season.

You are dreaming now some of the idle dreams of youth, but when you

return to Cambridge you will wake up again and see that all this was

a pleasant dream only, which you saw in your restful hours in drowsy

Idvor. The real things are waiting for you at Cambridge.”

I confessed my weakness and pleaded extenuating circumstances. I tried

to persuade her that her tender affection and watchful ministering

to what she insisted should be my pleasures and comforts during that

summer had transformed a hardy youth into a soft and pampered pet. She

answered: “The blacksmith softens his steel before he forges it into a

chain; you are just right for the blacksmiths of Cambridge.”

* * * * *

When I returned to Cambridge from drowsy little Idvor things looked

different from what they had on my former visit two months before.

Things which, in my feverish haste, I had scarcely noticed then filled

me now with awe. The ancient college buildings inspired a feeling

of wonder and of veneration. I saw in them just so many monumental

records of the ancient traditions of English learning. I began to

understand, I thought, how it happened that a little nation on a

little island in the northern Atlantic became the leader in the world’s

empire of intellect, and the cradle of a great civilization. This

first impression made upon me by these ancient monuments was greatly

amplified as soon as I caught even the first glimpses of the daily

activity of Cambridge. The forenoons appeared serious and sombre to an

outside observer; everybody wore a black cap and gown and everybody

did apparently the same thing, going somewhere in search of sources of

learning and inspiration. The intellect of Cambridge seemed to be in

full action during the forenoons, and hence the solemn seriousness of

the university town during the early half of the day. But the scene

changed as if by magic when the midday had passed. The black caps

and gowns disappeared, and in their places white flannel trousers

and gaily colored blazers and caps adorned the college youths and

many college dons. The same youths who in the forenoon, like sombre

monks, were making a pilgrimage to some miracle-working fountains of

wisdom joined in a gay procession in the afternoon, hastening to the

sparkling fountains of athletic recreation. The intellectual activity

of the forenoon was succeeded by the physical activity of Cambridge

in the afternoon. To a stranger like myself, who knew practically

nothing of the famous university town, the change of scene between

morning and afternoon was bewildering. It looked to me as if I saw a

monastic-looking procession of serious and thoughtful men suddenly

changed into gay groups of lively youths whose only thoughts were on

the games which awaited them. By counting the different colors of

blazers and caps and the coats of arms which adorned the athletic

youths one could easily count the number of different colleges in

the old university. These colors and coats of arms had a meaning, I

thought, and I asked myself whether they did not, like the ancient

college buildings, record the ancient traditions of the venerable

seat of learning. They certainly did; they were a part of the symbolic

language which told the story of the university’s customs and

traditions. It was clear to me that while at Cambridge my work was to

be done in the morning and evening, and my playing in the afternoon,

in accordance with the local customs. I stayed at a hotel for several

days and watched these external pictures of Cambridge life before I

called on Mr. Niven of Trinity and on Mr. Oscar Browning of King’s. I

wished to get some picture of the daily activities at Cambridge before

I presented myself to these learned men, and I got it.

Niven was expecting me and was ready with a programme of work which

he had promised me in June, and I gladly accepted it. Both Niven and

Browning assured me that at that late date lodgings in any college

were out of the question, and that I must get lodgings in the town

for one academic year at least. It did not matter, because very many

students resided outside of the college buildings. I really preferred

it, because I had not come to Cambridge to seek the opportunities

offered by its college life; I had come to study physics and find out

how Maxwell answered the question “What is Light?” That was the only

definite point in the programme which I had brought to Cambridge; the

rest was hazy and reminded me often of a Serbian figure of speech

which speaks of a goose groping around in a fog to find its way. But

I had groped like a goose in a fog when I landed at Castle Garden and

finally found my way. The saying, “Where there’s a will there’s a way,”

comforted me much.

My residence in lodgings outside of the college precincts had one great

advantage. It gave me an opportunity to study English life from what

I considered a somewhat novel point of view. It is the point of view

which discloses to the foreigner English domestic life through the

unique personality of the English landlady. During my eighteen months’

stay at the University of Cambridge, I had an opportunity to study her

wonderful ways, not only in Cambridge, but also in London, Hastings,

Brighton, and Folkestone, where I used to spend my Easter and Christmas

vacations. She was the same everywhere: dignified, reticent, punctual,

and square; neat and clean in all her ways; willing and anxious to

render service, but not a servant; possessing a perfect understanding

of her own business, which she minded scrupulously, but avoiding

carefully minding anybody else’s business.

At Mr. Browning’s request a Mr. Ling, the leading tenor of King’s

College choir, took me around to look for lodgings. He belonged to the

town and not to the gown, and was quite anxious to impress me with the

many virtues of the town. He transformed our trip into an elaborate

inspection tour of the student lodgings, because he was proud of them

and considered them a very essential part of the great university.

At that time I thought that he, a very enthusiastic townsman, was

perhaps exaggerating the importance of this subsidiary instrumentality

of the university. But when I got to know the Cambridge landlady and

to understand her importance, I became convinced that Mr. Ling was

right. I had not been in Cambridge more than a week before I learned

the fundamentals of English domestic life, and I admired its wholesome

simplicity. My landlady taught me these fundamentals, and in her

wonderfully tactful ways she enforced their operation without my being

aware that I was led around by her intelligent and forceful hand.

I take off my hat to the English landlady, who, in her humble and

unostentatious ways, is one of the eloquent interpreters of Anglo-Saxon

civilization. She was one of my trusty guides and sympathetic

assistants during my strenuous eighteen months at the University of

Cambridge.

I started my work at Cambridge unattached to any college. But later

I made up my mind to attach myself to King’s College, yielding to

repeated suggestions from my friend, Mr. Oscar Browning. But I did not

change my lodgings. King’s had less than a hundred students and many

dons. Not one of them was a star in physics, and therefore the college

had no attractions for me on account of the learning of its dons.

But it had a beautiful chapel and a famous choir. The stained-glass

windows of King’s College chapel were famous as far back as Cromwell’s

time and they are still so. Every time I attended service in this

glorious chapel I went away feeling spiritually uplifted. I attended

regularly, although, as a member of the Orthodox faith, I was excused

from all religious services. What the other students, belonging to

the established church, considered a stern duty, I considered a rare

privilege. The chapel gave me a spiritual tonic whenever I needed it,

and I needed it often. I yielded also to Mr. Browning’s suggestions

to try for a place in the college boat, and succeeded. Rowing was the

only exercise which I took at Cambridge after I had become attached

to King’s, but before that I took long walks, usually with one of the

younger dons or with a student who was engaged in the same book work

in which I was engaged. They helped me to make myself familiar with

the history of Cambridge and of the surrounding country. Everybody in

Cambridge took his daily exercise just as regularly as he took his

daily bath and food. I followed the universal custom; it suited me well

and, besides, that was the best way to get along in Cambridge.

Physical as well as intellectual activity of the students at Cambridge

was a matter of daily routine, regulated by customs and traditions.

But these regulators were different for different groups of students.

The student studying for honors arranged his work differently from

the arrangement which suited the needs of a Poll student, that is,

the ordinary student who did not aspire to academic honors. Their

previous training also had been different. The students who aspired

to academic honors in mathematics were quite numerous, more numerous

than the students in any other honor class. Cambridge, ever since the

time of Newton, had become the nursery of the mathematical sciences

in the British Empire. There were about five of these honor groups at

Cambridge in those days. Niven advised me to join the honor group in

mathematics, the so-called mathematical tripos group, and he picked

out a coach for me. Just as one straight line, only, can be drawn

through two points, so the line of the student’s intellectual activity

at Cambridge was fixed when he had picked out the honor class and the

tutor or coach to train him for the examinations prescribed for that

honor class. To join the honor class in mathematics meant to work

alongside of students who expected to become Cambridge _wranglers_.

To understand the meaning of this it suffices to know that no greater

honor was in store for the ambitious youths in the university than to

be a _senior wrangler_ or to stroke a victorious varsity boat. The

preparations for these glorious honors were just as careful as the

preparations of a Grecian youth for participation in the Olympian

games. I had no ambition to become a Cambridge wrangler, but Niven

pointed out that a prospective physicist who wished to master some day

Maxwell’s new electrical theory must first master a good part of the

mathematical work prescribed for students preparing for the Cambridge

mathematical tripos examinations.

“Doctor Routh could fix you up in quicker time than anybody,” said

Niven with a smile, and then he added cautiously, “that is, if Routh

consents to your joining his private classes, and if you can manage

to keep up the pace of the youngsters who are under his training.”

Three months before, when I first called on Niven, and when my pitch

was very high, I would have resented this; but Idvor had lowered my

pitch several octaves and I swallowed Niven’s bitter pill without the

slightest sign of mental distress. My humility pleased him, because it

probably relieved him of some anxiety about the question of managing me.

John Edward Routh, fellow of Peterhouse College, was the most famous

mathematical coach that Cambridge University had ever seen. In his

lifetime he had coached several hundred wranglers, and for twenty-two

consecutive years he had coached the senior wrangler of each year.

This is really equivalent to saying that a certain jockey had ridden

the Derby winner for twenty-two consecutive years. He was a senior

wrangler himself in 1854, when great James Clerk Maxwell was second

wrangler, and he divided with Maxwell the famous Smith’s prize in

mathematics. To be admitted by Routh into his private classes was

flattering, according to Niven, but to be able to keep up with them

would be a most encouraging sign. Niven was anxiously waiting for that

sign. Routh accepted me, but gave me to understand that my mathematical

preparation was much below the standard of the boys who came to

Cambridge to prepare for the mathematical tripos examinations, and that

I should have to do considerable extra reading. He also cautioned me

that all this meant very stiff work for a good part of the academic

year. I went to Cambridge to study physics and not mathematics; but,

according to Niven and Routh, my real desire, as far as they could make

it out, was to study mathematical physics, and they assured me that my

training with Routh, if I could keep the pace, would soon lay a good

foundation for that. Lord Rayleigh lectured on mathematical physics and

so did famous Professor Stokes (later Sir George Gabriel Stokes); but

according to Routh and Niven I was not prepared to attend any of these

lectures, and much less to read Maxwell’s famous mathematical treatise

on his new electrical theory. Niven reminded me once of my first visit

to Cambridge, when I had insisted that Cambridge without Maxwell had no

attractions for me, and he asked me, jokingly, whether Lord Rayleigh’s

lectures were good enough for me. I answered that they certainly were,

but that, unfortunately, I was not good enough for the lectures. “Next

year you will be,” said Niven, consoling me; and I, unable to suppress

my feeling of disappointment, answered: “Let us pray that the starving

jackass does not drop dead before the grass is green again.” “What’s

that?” asked Niven, somewhat puzzled. “That is a free translation of a

Serbian proverb, and I am the jackass,” said I, and refused to furnish

any further explanations. But Niven figured it out correctly in the

course of the evening and then laughed heartily. He confessed that

Serbo-American humor was somewhat involved and required considerable

analysis.

The Cambridge colleges, some nineteen in number, resembled our

American colleges in many ways. The career of the Cambridge Poll men

was essentially the same as that of our American college boys. But

our American colleges had no class of students corresponding to the

Cambridge honor men. Referring particularly to the honor men who

prepared for the so-called mathematical tripos, they came to Cambridge

after graduating at some college outside of Cambridge. For instance,

Maxwell came to Cambridge from the University of Edinburgh, and Routh

came there from the University College, London. Both of them migrated

to Cambridge, because their teachers in mathematics, like illustrious

De Morgan, the first mathematical teacher of Routh, were mathematicians

of distinction, and discovering in their young pupils extraordinary

mathematical talents they developed them as far as they could, and then

sent them to Cambridge for further development under the training of

famous coaches who prepared them for the mathematical tripos. These

teachers were usually former Cambridge wranglers, apostles of the

Cambridge mathematical school, and they were always on the lookout for

a fresh supply of mathematical genius for the nursery which regarded

great Newton as its founder. This was the type of boys which I met in

Routh’s classes. They did not seem to know as much of Greek and Latin,

of history and economics, of literature and physical sciences, as I

did, but their training in mathematics was far superior to mine. They

were candidates for the mathematical tripos, and no American college of

those days had a curriculum which could turn out candidates with the

preliminary mathematical training which those boys brought to Cambridge.

Routh had warned me that stiff work was before me for a good part of a

whole academic year, if I was to keep up with the young mathematical

athletes whom he was training, and he was right. I experienced many

moments of despondency and even despair, and I needed all the tonic

which King’s College chapel could give me; I needed it very often, and

I got it. Routh was a splendid drill-master even for those students

who, like myself, had no tripos aspirations. He certainly was a

wonder, and everything he did was done with ease and grace and in

such an offhand manner that I often thought that he considered even

the stiffest mathematical problems mere amusing tricks. Problems over

which I had puzzled in vain for many hours he would resolve in several

seconds. He was a virtuoso in the mathematical technique, and he

prepared virtuosos; he was the great master who trained future senior

wranglers. I never felt so small and so humble as I did during the

early period of my training with Routh. Vanity and false pride had no

place in my heart when I watched Routh demolish one intricate dynamical

problem after another with marvellous ease. I felt as a commonplace

artist feels when he listens to a Paderewski or to a Fritz Kreisler.

Long before the end of the academic year, I finished Routh’s

preliminary tripos course in dynamics and much of the auxiliary

mathematics demanded by it, and became quite skilled in solving

dynamical problems. I had much difficulty in keeping pace with Routh’s

classes, but I succeeded, and Niven was pleased. But I was not pleased;

I did not think that I had found there what I had expected to find. In

the course of time I discovered that I was not alone in my opinion;

many Cambridge men failed to find in tripos drills the stimulating

elements of that scientific spirit which leads to original research. I

was a goose which groped around in a fog when I came to Cambridge; but,

if I had come from an English college as a promising tripos candidate,

with my work cut out for me by my superiors and in accordance with

old customs and traditions of Cambridge, I should not have discovered

that there was in Cambridge at that time an epoch-making movement, the

significance of which cannot be overestimated. I shall return to this

point later.

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