He who has never crossed the stormy Atlantic during the month of

March in the crowded steerage of an immigrant ship does not know

what hardships are. I bless the stars that the immigration laws were

different then than they are now, otherwise I should not be among the

living. To stand the great hardships of a stormy sea when the rosy

picture of the promised land is before your mind’s eye is a severe

test for any boy’s nerve and physical stamina; but to face the same

hardships as a deported and penniless immigrant with no cheering

prospect in sight is too much for any person, unless that person is

entirely devoid of every finer sensibility. Many a night I spent on the

deck of that immigrant ship hugging the warm smoke-stack and adjusting

my position so as to avoid the force of the gale and the sharpness of

its icy chilliness. All I had was the light suit of clothes which I

carried on my back. Everything else I had converted into money with

which to cover my transportation expenses. There was nothing left

to pay for a blanket and mattress for my steerage bunk. I could not

rest there during the cold nights of March without much shivering and

unbearable discomfort. If it had not been for the warm smoke-stack I

should have died of cold. At first I had to fight for my place there

in the daytime, but when the immigrants understood that I had no warm

clothing they did not disturb me any longer. I often thought of my

yellow sheepskin coat and the black sheepskin cap, and understood

more clearly than ever my mother’s far-sightedness when she provided

that coat and cap for my long journeys. A blast of the everlasting

gales had carried away my hat, and a Turkish fez such as the Serbs of

Bosnia wear was the only head-gear I had. It was providential that I

had not succeeded in selling it in Prague. Most of my fellow emigrants

thought that I was a Turk and cared little about my discomforts. But,

nevertheless, I felt quite brave and strong in the daytime; at night,

however, when, standing alone alongside of the smoke-stack, I beheld

through the howling darkness the white rims of the mountain-high waves

speeding on like maddened dragons toward the tumbling ship, my heart

sank low. It was my implicit trust in God and in his regard for my

mother’s prayers which enabled me to overcome my fear and bravely face

the horrors of the angry seas.

* * * * *

On the fourteenth day, early in the morning, the flat coast-line of

Long Island hove in sight. Nobody in the motley crowd of excited

immigrants was more happy to see the promised land than I was. It was

a clear, mild, and sunny March morning, and as we approached New York

Harbor the warm sun-rays seemed to thaw out the chilliness which I had

accumulated in my body by continuous exposure to the wintry blasts

of the North Atlantic. I felt like a new person, and saw in every

new scene presented by the New World as the ship moved into it a new

promise that I should be welcome. Life and activity kept blossoming

out all along the ship’s course, and seemed to reach full bloom as we

entered New York Harbor. The scene which was then unfolded before my

eyes was most novel and bewildering. The first impressions of Budapest

and of Prague seemed like pale-faced images of the grand realities

which New York Harbor disclosed before my eager eyes. A countless

multitude of boats lined each shore of the vast river; all kinds of

craft ploughed hurriedly in every direction through the waters of the

bay; great masses of people crowded the numerous ferry-boats, and gave

me the impression that one crowd was just about as anxious to reach

one shore of the huge metropolis as the other was to reach the other

shore; they all must have had some important thing to do, I thought.

The city on each side of the shore seemed to throb with activity. I did

not distinguish between New York and Jersey City. Hundreds of other

spots like the one I beheld, I thought, must be scattered over the vast

territories of the United States, and in these seething pots of human

action there must be some one activity, I was certain, which needed me.

This gave me courage. The talk which I had listened to during two weeks

on the immigrant ship was rather discouraging, I thought. One immigrant

was bragging about his long experience as a cabinetmaker, and informed

his audience that cabinetmakers were in great demand in America;

another one was telling long tales about his skill as a mechanician; a

third one was spinning out long yarns about the fabulous agricultural

successes of his relatives out West, who had invited him to come there

and join them; a fourth confided to the gaping crowd that his brother,

who was anxiously waiting for him, had a most prosperous bank in some

rich mining-camp in Nevada where people never saw any money except

silver and gold and hardly ever a coin smaller than a dollar; a fifth

one, who had been in America before, told us in a rather top-lofty way

that no matter who you were or what you knew or what you had you would

be a greenhorn when you landed in the New World, and a greenhorn has

to serve his apprenticeship before he can establish his claim to any

recognition. He admitted, however, that immigrants with a previous

practical training, or strong pull through relatives and friends, had

a shorter apprenticeship. I had no practical training, and I had no

relatives nor friends nor even acquaintances in the New World. I had

nothing of any immediate value to offer to the land I was about to

enter. That thought had discouraged me as I listened to the talks of

the immigrants; but the activity which New York Harbor presented to my

eager eyes on that sunny March day was most encouraging.

Presently the ship passed by Castle Garden, and I heard some one say:

“There is the Gate to America.” An hour or so later we all stood

at the gate. The immigrant ship, _Westphalia_, landed at Hoboken

and a tug took us to Castle Garden. We were carefully examined and

cross-examined, and when my turn came the examining officials shook

their heads and seemed to find me wanting. I confessed that I had only

five cents in my pocket and had no relatives here, and that I knew of

nobody in this country except Franklin, Lincoln, and Harriet Beecher

St owe, whose “Uncle Tom’s Cabin” I had read in a translation. One of

the officials, who had one leg only, and walked with a crutch, seemed

much impressed by this remark, and looking very kindly into my eyes

and with a merry twinkle in his eye he said in German: “You showed

good taste when you picked your American acquaintances.” I learned

later that he was a Swiss who had served in the Union army during the

Civil War. I confessed also to the examining officials that I had no

training in the arts and crafts, but that I was anxious to learn, and

that this desire had brought me to America. In answer to the question

why I had not stayed at home or in Prague to learn instead of wandering

across the sea with so little on my back and nothing in my pocket, I

said that the Hungarian and Austrian authorities had formed a strong

prejudice against me on account of my sympathies with people, and

particularly with my father, who objected to being cheated out of

their ancient rights and privileges which the emperor had guaranteed

to them for services which they had been rendering to him loyally

for nearly two hundred years. I spoke with feeling, and I felt that

I made an impression upon the examiners, who did not look to me like

officials such as I was accustomed to see in Austria-Hungary. They had

no gold and silver braid and no superior airs but looked very much like

ordinary civilian mortals. That gave me courage and confidence, and I

spoke frankly and fearlessly, believing firmly that I was addressing

human beings who had a heart which was not held in bondage by cast-iron

rules invented by their superiors in authority. The Swiss veteran who

walked on crutches, having lost one of his legs in the Civil War, was

particularly attentive while I was being cross-examined, and nodded

approvingly whenever I scored a point with my answers. He whispered

something to the other officials, and they finally informed me that

I could pass on, and I was conducted promptly to the Labor Bureau

of Castle Garden. My Swiss friend looked me up a little later and

informed me that the examiners had made an exception in my favor and

admitted me, and that I must look sharp and find a job as soon as

possible.

* * * * *

As I sat in the Labor Bureau waiting for somebody to come along and

pick me out as a worthy candidate for some job, I could not help

surveying those of my fellow immigrants who, like myself, sat there

waiting for a job. I really believed that they were in a class below

me, and yet they had had no trouble in being admitted. They had not

needed favors on the part of the officials in order to be admitted.

I had, and therefore, I inferred, they must have appeared to the

officials to be more desirable. It was true, I said, arguing with

myself, that they had a definite trade; they undoubtedly had some

money; and they certainly looked more prosperous than I did, judging

by their clothes. But why should the possession of a trade, of money,

or of clothes stand so much higher in America than it did in Idvor,

my native village? We had a blacksmith, a wheelwright, and a barber

in Idvor; they were our craftsmen; and we had a Greek storekeeper who

had a lot of money and wore expensive city-made clothes, but there

was not one respectable Serb peasant in Idvor, no matter how poor,

who did not think that he was superior to these people who had only

a transient existence in our historic village. The knowledge of our

traditions and our implicit belief in them made us feel superior

to people who wandered about like gypsies with no traditions, and

with nothing to anchor them to a definite place. A newcomer to our

village was closely scrutinized, and he was judged not so much by his

skill in a craft, nor by his money, nor by his clothes, but by his

personality, by the reputation of his family, and by the traditions of

the people to whom he belonged. The examiners at Castle Garden seemed

to attach no importance to these things, because they did not ask me

a single question concerning my family, the history of my village,

or the history of the military frontier and of the Serb race. It was

no wonder, said I, consoling myself, that I appeared to them less

desirable than many of the other immigrants who would never have been

allowed to settle in Idvor, and whose society on the immigrant ship had

interested me so little, and, in fact, had often been repulsive to me,

because I could not help considering many of them a sort of spiritual

muckers. My admission by a special favor of the examiners was a puzzle

and a disappointment to me, but it did not destroy the firmness of my

belief that I brought to America something which the examiners were

either unable or did not care to find out, but which, nevertheless, I

valued very highly, and that was: a knowledge of and a profound respect

and admiration for the best traditions of my race. My mother and the

illiterate peasants at the neighborhood gatherings in Idvor had taught

me that; no other lesson had ever made a deeper impression upon me.

II

THE HARDSHIPS OF A GREENHORN

My first night under the Stars and Stripes was spent in Castle Garden.

It was a glorious night, I thought; no howling of the gales, no

crashing of the waves, and no tumbling motion of the world beneath my

feet, such as I had experienced on the immigrant ship. The feeling of

being on _terra firma_ sank deep into my consciousness and I slept the

sound sleep of a healthy youth, although my bed was a bare floor. The

very early morning saw me at my breakfast, enjoying a huge bowl of

hot coffee and a big chunk of bread with some butter, supplied by the

Castle Garden authorities at Uncle Sam’s expense. Then I started out,

eager to catch a glimpse of great New York, feeling, in the words of

the psalmist, “as a strong man ready to run a race.” An old lady sat

near the gate of Castle Garden offering cakes and candies for sale.

A piece of prune pie caught my eye, and no true Serb can resist the

allurements of prunes. It is a national sweetmeat. I bought it, paying

five cents for it, the only money I had, and then I made a bee-line

across Battery Park, at the same time attending to my pie. My first

bargain in America proved a failure. The prune pie was a deception;

it was a prune pie filled with prune pits, and I thought of the words

of my fellow passenger on the immigrant ship who had said: “No matter

who you are or what you know or what you have you will be a greenhorn

when you land in America.” The prune-pie transaction whispered into

my ear: “Michael, you are a greenhorn; this is the first experience

in your life as a greenhorn. Cheer up! Get ready to serve your

apprenticeship as a greenhorn before you can establish your claim to

any recognition,” repeating the words of my prophetic fellow passenger

who had served his apprenticeship in America. No prophet ever uttered a

truer word.

The old Stevens House, a white building with green window-shutters,

stood at the corner of Broadway and Bowling Green. When I reached

this spot and saw the busy beehive called Broadway, with thousands

of telegraph-wires stretching across it like a cobweb between huge

buildings, I was overawed, and wondered what it meant. Neither

Budapest, nor Prague, nor Hamburg had looked anything like it. My

puzzled and panicky expression and the red fez on my head must have

attracted considerable attention, because suddenly I saw myself

surrounded by a small crowd of boys of all sizes, jeering and laughing

and pointing at my fez. They were newsboys and bootblacks, who appeared

to be anxious to have some fun at my expense. I was embarrassed and

much provoked, but controlled my Serbian temper. Presently one of the

bigger fellows walked up to me and knocked the fez off my head. I

punched him on the nose and then we clinched. My wrestling experiences

on the pasturelands of Idvor came to my rescue. The bully was down in a

jiffy, and his chums gave a loud cheer of ringing laughter. I thought

it was a signal for general attack, but they did not touch me nor

interfere in any way. They acted like impartial spectators, anxious to

see that the best man won. Suddenly I felt a powerful hand pulling me

up by the collar, and when I looked up I saw a big official with a club

in his hand and a fierce expression in his eye. He looked decidedly

unfriendly, but after listening to the appeals of the newsboys and

bootblacks who witnessed the fight he softened and handed me my fez.

The boys who a little while before had jeered and tried to guy me,

evidently appealed in my behalf when the policeman interfered. They

had actually become my friends. When I walked away toward Castle

Garden, with my red fez proudly cocked up on my head, the boys cheered.

I thought to myself that the unpleasant incident was worth my while,

because it taught me that I was in a country where even among the

street urchins there was a strong sentiment in favor of fair play even

to a Serbian greenhorn. America was different from Austria-Hungary.

I never forgot the lesson and never had a single reason to change my

opinion.

A gentleman who had witnessed the fight joined me on my return trip to

Castle Garden, and when we reached the employment bureau he offered

me a job. When I learned that one of my daily duties would be to

milk a cow, I refused. According to Serb traditions, milking a cow

is decidedly a feminine job. Another gentleman, a Swiss foreman on a

Delaware farm, offered me another job, which was to drive a team of

mules and help in the work of hauling things to the field preparatory

for spring planting. I accepted gladly, feeling confident that I knew

all about driving animals, although I had never even seen a mule in

all my experiences in Idvor. We left for Philadelphia that forenoon

and caught there the early afternoon boat for Delaware City, where we

arrived late in the afternoon.

As we passed through Philadelphia I asked the Swiss foreman whether

that was the place where a hundred years before famous Benjamin

Franklin flew his kite, and he answered that he had never heard of

the gentleman, and that I must have meant William Penn. “No,” said I,

“because I never heard of this gentleman.” “You have still to learn a

thing or two about American history,” said the Swiss foreman, with a

superior air. “Yes, indeed,” I said, “and I intend to do it as soon

as I have learned a thing or two about the English language”; and I

wondered whether the Swiss foreman who had never heard of Benjamin

Franklin and his kite had really learned a thing or two in American

history, although he had lived some fifteen years in the United States.

There were quite a number of farmers on the Delaware boat, every one

of them wearing a long goatee but no mustache; such was the fashion

at that time. Every one of them had the brim of his slouch hat turned

down, covering his eyes completely. As they conversed they looked

like wooden images; they made no gestures and I could not catch the

expression of their hidden eyes; without these powerful aids to

the understanding of the spoken word I could not make out a single

syllable in their speech. The English language sounded to me like an

inarticulate mode of speech, just as inarticulate as the joints of

those imperturbable Delaware farmers. I wondered whether I should ever

succeed in learning a thing or two in this most peculiar tongue. I

thought of the peasants at the neighborhood gatherings in Idvor, and of

their winged words, each of which found its way straight into my soul.

There also appeared before my mental vision the image of Baba Batikin,

with fire in his eye and a vibratory movement of his hand accompanying

his stirring tales of Prince Marko. How different and how superior

those peasants of Idvor appeared to me when I compared them with the

farmers on that Delaware boat! “Impossible,” said I, “that a Serb

peasant should be so much superior to the American peasant!” Something

wrong with my judgment, thought I, and I charged it to my being a

greenhorn and unable to size up an American farmer.

At the boat-landing in Delaware City a farm-wagon was awaiting us, and

we reached the farm at supper-time. The farm-buildings were fully a

mile from the town, standing all by themselves; there was no village

and there were no neighbors, and the place looked to me like a camp.

There was no village life among American farmers, I was told, and

I understood then why those farmers on the Delaware boat were so

devoid of all animation. The farm-hands were all young fellows, but

considerably older than myself, and when the foreman introduced me to

them, by my Christian name, I found that most of them spoke German with

a Swiss accent, the same which the foreman had who brought me from New

York. One of them asked me how long I had been in the country, and when

I told him that I was about twenty-four hours in the country, he smiled

and said that he thought so, evidently on account of the unmistakable

signs of a greenhorn which he saw all over me.

The first impression of an American farm was dismal. In the messroom,

however, where supper was served, everything was neat and lovely, and

the supper looked to me like a holiday feast. I became more reconciled

to the American farm. The farm-hands ate much and spoke very little,

and when they finished they left the dining-room without any ceremony.

I was left alone, and moved my chair close to a warm stove and waited

for somebody to tell me what to do next. Presently two women came in

and proceeded to clear the supper-table; they spoke English and seemed

to pay no attention to me. They probably thought that I was homesick

and avoided disturbing me. Presently I saw a young girl, somewhat

younger than myself. She pretended to be helping the women, but I soon

discovered that she had another mission. Her appearance reminded me of

a young Vila, a Serbian fairy, who in the old Serbian ballads plays a

most wonderful part. No hero ever perished through misfortune who had

the good fortune to win the friendship of a Vila. Supernatural both in

intelligence and in physical skill, the Vilæ could always find a way

out of every difficulty. I felt certain that if there ever was a Vila

this young girl was one. Her luminous blue eyes, her finely chiselled

features, and her graceful movements made a strange impression upon me.

I imagined that she could hear the faintest sound, that she could see

in the darkest night, and that, like a real Vila, she could feel not

only the faintest breezes but even the thoughts of people near her.

She certainly felt my thoughts. Pointing to a table in a corner of the

dining-room, she directed my attention to writing-paper and ink, placed

there for the convenience of farm-hands. I understood her meaning,

although I did not understand her words. I spent the evening writing a

letter to my mother. This was my wish, and the Vila must have read it

in my face.

One of the farm-hands, a Swiss, came in after a while in order to

remind me that it was bedtime and to inform me that early in the

morning he would wake me up and take me to the barn, where my job would

be assigned to me. He kept his word, and with lantern in hand he took

me long before sunrise to the barn and introduced me to two mules which

he put in my charge. I cleaned them and fed them while he watched and

directed; after breakfast he showed me how to harness and hitch them

up. I took my turn in the line of teams hauling manure to the fields.

He warned me not to apply myself too zealously to the work of loading

and unloading, until I had become gradually broken in, otherwise I

should be laid up stiff as a rod. The next day I was laid up, stiffer

than a rod. He was much provoked, and called me the worst “greenhorn”

that he ever saw. But, thanks to the skilled and tender care of the

ladies on the farm, I was at my job again two days later. My being a

greenhorn appealed to their sympathy; they seemed to have the same kind

of soul which I had first observed in my American friends who paid my

fare from Vienna to Prague.

One of my mules gave me much trouble, and the more he worried me the

more amusement he seemed to furnish to the other farm-hands, rough

immigrants of foreign birth. He did not bite, nor did he kick, as

some of the mules did, but he protested violently against my putting

the bridle on his head. The other farm-hands had no advice to offer;

they seemed to enjoy my perplexity. I soon discovered that the

troublesome mule could not stand anybody touching his ears. That was

his ticklish spot. I finally got around it; I never took his bridle off

on working-days, but only removed the bit, so that he could eat. On

Sunday mornings, however, when I had all the time I wanted, I took his

bridle off, cleaned it, and put it on, and did not remove it again for

another week. The foreman and the superintendent discovered my trick

and approved of it, and so the farm-hands lost the amusement which they

had had at my expense every morning at the harnessing hour. I noticed

that they were impressed by my trick and did not address me by the name

of greenhorn quite so often. They were also surprised to hear me make

successful attempts to speak English. Nothing counts so much in the

immigrant’s bid for promotion to a grade above that of a greenhorn as

the knowledge of the English language. In these efforts I received a

most unexpected assistance, and for that I was much indebted to my red

fez.

On every trip from the barnyard to the fields, my mules and I passed

by the superintendent’s quarters, and there behind the wall of neatly

piled-up cord-wood I observed every now and then the golden curls of my

American Vila. She cautiously watched there, just like a Serbian Vila

at the edge of a forest. My red fez perched up on a high seat behind

the mules obviously attracted and amused her. Whenever I caught her eye

I saluted in regular Balkan fashion, and it was a salute such as she

had never seen before in the State of Delaware. Her curiosity seemed to

grow from day to day, and so did mine.

One evening I sat alone near the warm stove in the messroom and she

came in and said: “Good evening!” I answered by repeating her greeting,

but pronounced it badly. She corrected me, and, when I repeated her

greeting the second time, I did much better, and she applauded my

genuine effort. Then she proceeded to teach me English words for

everything in the dining-room, and before that first lesson was over I

knew some twenty English words and pronounced them to her satisfaction.

The next day I repeated these words aloud over and over again during

my trips to the fields, until I thought that even the mules knew them

by heart. At the second lesson on the following evening I scored a

high mark from my teacher and added twenty more words to my English

vocabulary. As time went on, my vocabulary increased at a rapid rate,

and my young teacher was most enthusiastic. She called me “smart,”

and I never forgot the word. One evening she brought in her mother,

who two weeks previously had taken care of me when I was laid up from

overzealous loading. At that time she could not make me understand a

single word she said. This time, however, I had no difficulty, and she

was greatly surprised and pleased. My first examination in English was

a complete success.

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