CHAPTER XXXIV

FRICTIONAL FUN

SOME AMUSING ELECTRICAL EXPERIMENTS[1]

ELECTRICITY may be said to have a finger in most pies. From its

manifestations it would appear to be an all-pervading force, and modern

research tends always to substantiate this conclusion. Thus two coins--a

cent and a quarter--cannot be brought into contact without producing

their quotum of electrical force, and in like manner the principles of

its working may often be demonstrated by the simplest apparatus.

There are two states which this subtle force assumes, called Static and

Dynamic. The former word indicates a condition of rest, and is applied

to electricity when stored in suitable magazines ready for discharge at

a favorable opportunity, just as water may be held in lofty reservoirs,

ready to pour down and perform work--whether useful or otherwise--if the

pipes be opened. Dynamic, on the other hand, indicates a state of

motion; so that Dynamic Electricity means that it is flowing along

conductors from one place, where there is a large quantity of the force,

to another less powerful, in the same way as--again using the comparison

with water--the latter pours along connecting pipes from a high level to

a lower. Phenomena of static electricity are invariably produced by

friction, and some experiments of this class will be first described.

The chief element of success in friction electrical experiments is a

warm and dry atmosphere. The operations should therefore be conducted in

a well-ventilated room where the fire has been burning some time, whilst

all apparatus may with advantage have stood warming for some time

before.

1. Rub a 6-inch square of brown paper with a warm silk handkerchief,

then place flat against the wall or marble fireplace. It should cleave

tightly to either of the latter surfaces.

2. Again electrify the brown paper and hold it above any willing

person’s head of hair. The locks will fly up towards the paper and

appear like bristles. You may then make sure of a safe retreat, and

utter side remarks about “wire.”

3. Sprint smartly after the cat, which, like the other apparatus, should

have been warming itself on the hearthrug, and having effected a

capture, stroke the fur backwards. If the hand be not moist,

considerable sparking should occur and be easily visible in a darkened

room.

4. By combing dry hair quickly with a warm ebonite comb, and then

applying this to the knuckles, distinct sparks may often be obtained.

5. Cut a piece of paper into small confetti, and place near it a stick

of sealing-wax or ebonite rod, which has been rubbed with flannel. The

paper atoms are attracted to the rod through a distance of one inch or

more, and then, contact having once occurred, they immediately drop off.

6. In the previous experiment it was found that the paper atoms having

once touched the rod, dropped off directly. This behavior was caused by

a sequence of happenings.

First the negatively excited sealing-wax caused positive charges to

possess the upper surface of the paper--the equal negative charges being

driven downwards--so that, the two kinds of electric energy having a

mutual affinity, the paper sprang towards the wax. Immediately they

touched, however, the positive charges of the paper were neutralized by

the large excess of negative energy from the sealing-wax, and then,

since electricities of like sign exercise mutual repulsion, the negative

paper was driven from the negative wax.

Now this repulsion of similarly charged particles is demonstrable by a

straightforward experiment, whose simplicity of description is in nowise

proportionate to its entertainment. In truth, it consists merely of

blowing a soap-bubble and catching it upon an excited stick of glass or

wax. The bubble becomes electrified, its myriads of particles repel one

another, and the beautiful globe expands in size, possibly to breaking

point.

7. Scratch any design or word upon a small sheet of indiarubber--such as

is used in the manufacture of mats--and then dust over the surface a

thoroughly-shaken mixture of red-lead and sulphur. When all excess of

the powder has been blown away, the design should appear in grains of

red-lead, showing to excellent effect on the gray rubber ground.

8. By the following method a spark of sufficient intensity to light

house gas may be obtained from brown paper. Support a salver on four

well-dried inverted tumblers, placing a rubber ring between the tray and

each glass, and twist a copper wire round a spoon which rests on the

tray. The other end of this wire must be held--insulated from the

fingers by a piece of indiarubber or by the ordinary covering of the

wire--just over the gas-jet, whilst about ¹⁄₈-inch away is held another

piece in metallic connection with the hand; that is, in reality, _via_

the operator’s body with the earth.

Now, if the gas be turned on slightly and a piece of warm brown paper,

electrified by stroking vigorously with a dry brush, be placed on the

salver, a spark should pass across the ¹⁄₈-inch gap and ignite the

escaping gas. If the spark does not pass at once, approach the wire

extremities slightly closer together.

[Illustration: FIG. 1.--Raising paper by touching wooden lath with

electrified sealing-wax.]

9. The following experiment owes its origin to Gray--an early worker in

the field of static electricity: Erect two dry tumblers with a piece of

waxed cardboard between, after the fashion shown in Fig. 1, and lay a

lath on the top glass. Beneath one end of the lath spread small pieces

of paper, over an ebonite or wood surface supported on another inverted

glass. Then if a stick of sealing-wax, which has been vigorously rubbed

with flannel, be approached to the other end of the lath, the particles

of paper will fly backwards and forwards between the lath and the

ebonite surface--on which they would normally rest.

10. A simple trick, but one nevertheless causing considerable amusement

to spectators, may be arranged in the following manner: Bore a hole

carefully at the middle of a wooden meat skewer (A, Fig. 2), of such

size as to take a bone knitting-needle tightly (B, Fig. 2).

Sharpen the blunt end of the skewer and mount it so as to turn easily

between bearings erected on inverted wine-glasses. These may consist of

two wood blocks (C, Fig. 2), in each of which a shallow conical hole is

made to receive the points of the skewer. On these stand weights (E,

Fig. 2) to keep wood-bearings firm. When this is in position and swings

easily, adjust the needle until it balances exactly. It should be at

right angles to the skewer, and may be fixed in position, if necessary,

with glue or sealing-wax.

[Illustration: FIG. 2.--The balanced disc.]

Now cut two discs of white paper (D, Fig. 2) of a diameter about 1 inch

less than the knitting-needle’s length, and, having printed across one

the word “DONE” in large type, glue them--centers at the point where the

needle and skewer intersect--on either side of this cross. Erect the

apparatus as shown, so that the needle stands vertical, with the blank

paper disc facing the audience, and then invite the latter to see if

they can effect a movement without either touching or blowing the disc

or creating any disturbance whatever. The conditions should preclude any

person, except the canny operator, from attaining success. He, however,

innocently takes a postcard (previously warmed and dried), tears it

sharply in half, and presents one ragged edge to the projecting bone

needle. The cardboard became electrified by tearing, and should exercise

quite enough attraction on the needle to upset its nice balance,

whereupon the other disc becomes visible, together with its notice

“DONE.” The audience may take the ambiguous meaning according to their

pleasure.

Few further experiments can be performed without the use of special

apparatus. So far, we have dealt only with the most minute quantities of

electricity, and if more striking effects are to be produced, our stores

of energy must be increased.

Fortunately instruments of a fairly wide application may be rudely

constructed at home, although, naturally, results must not be looked for

comparable to those obtained with perfected apparatus. However, brief

directions now follow for the manufacture of such simple instruments,

and so, as commencement, let us appropriate two 3-lb. jam pots from

which Leyden jars are to be evolved.

[Illustration: FIG. 3.--Leyden jar.]

LEYDEN JARS

Procure as much metal foil as possible, either by raiding the nursery or

by purchasing some tinfoil-wrapped butter scotch at the confectioner’s,

and gum it round the jam jars so as to extend about half-way up the

outside (A, Fig. 3).

Next solder stiff brass wires (8 inches long) to two round pieces of

metal, so cut as to pass the jar mouths readily. To the other end of one

brass rod solder another disc of metal, tin--or, better, brass--nicely

smoothed along its two edges by sandpaper. The other brass rod may be

looped at its end and have tinfoil wrapped round until a respectable

knob be formed, or else have a brass bedstead globe soldered on.

[Illustration: FIG. 4.--The electroscope.]

These brass standards are then stood inside, with their metal bases

resting on the bottom of the jars and surrounded by lead shot to the

same height as that of the tinfoil, without. The finished article should

appear something like the sketch shown as Fig. 3.

GOLD LEAF ELECTROSCOPE

[Illustration: FIG. 5.--Electroscope parts.]

Obtain a square glass pickle or preserve jar, to the mouth of which has

been fitted a large cork bung (A, Fig. 4). Next take a 7-inch length of

¹⁄₈-inch brass wire (B, Fig. 4) (similar to that used for the Leyden

jars above), and flatten one end by hammering (F, Fig. 5), after having

bent it triangular-shape, as in (C, Fig. 4).

A 2¹⁄₂ inch length of cycle valve-tubing (A, Fig. 5) is to be slipped

over the brass rod B (Fig. 5), and then strips of gummed brown paper, 2

inches wide, lapped round and round the rubber-tubing until a paper

cylinder some ¹⁄₄-inch across the outside is formed (C, Fig. 5). Anyway,

this paper cylinder must be a good fit for a hole bored through the

center of cork (D, Fig. 5), into which, moreover, it must be glued when

dry. The stopper, paper, &c., must then be allowed to soak in hot candle

wax for an hour or so, wiped clean and put aside to cool. Excess of

grease must be particularly removed--with paraffin if necessary--from

the plain end of the metal rod, to which we must next solder a brass

knob (D, Fig. 4) or, as an alternative, tinfoil may be twisted round a

loop in the wire until a ball is formed, as in the case of the Leyden

jar.

The next operation is to cut two strips of Dutch metal--or, better, gold

leaf--size ³⁄₄-inch by 2 inches, and gum them on either side of the

flattened brass rod triangle (E, Figs. 4 and 5). This is best managed by

laying the brass, after being lightly gummed, upon the Dutch metal

strips in the correct position, and when fixed trimming off the corners

of the leaves close to the sides of the triangle--not, of course, at the

base, or no strips will remain to hang down. Dutch metal and beaten gold

are both employed in gilding, and should be obtainable in small

quantities at any picture-framer’s shop.

If the cork be now fixed in the mouth of the jar and the brass rod

adjusted so that the gold leaves hang free of the interior, our

electroscope is practically complete. However, a few pieces of calcium

chloride, or pumice stone soaked in strong sulphuric acid, may be

included at the bottom of the jar (F, Fig. 4), in order to absorb

moisture; and lastly, as a brass ball is not always the most

satisfactory terminal for this instrument, one other small accessory may

be made. This consists of a 2-inch circle of tin, or, preferably, brass

(G, Fig. 4), exactly like that fitted to one of the Leyden jars, and to

the under side of which is soldered a ring of springy brass (H, Fig. 4)

about ³⁄₄-inch deep, so made as to fit securely on the brass ball

terminal. Thus the metal table is adaptable to the brass knob, whenever

such an arrangement is required.

[Illustration: FIG. 6.--The electrophorus.]

ELECTROPHORUS

Our Leyden jars have been constructed to store electrical energy, and

the gold leaf electroscope to indicate its presence. But we do not yet

possess the means of producing this energy in any considerable quantity.

To make an instrument for this purpose proceed as follows: Clean the

inner surface of a circular tin lid--diameter 6 inches or 7 inches, and

about ⁵⁄₈-inch deep--(A, Fig. 6), and in the center stand upright on its

head a brass screw, whose point has been filed down until it _nearly_

reaches to the level of the upper edge of the lid (B, Fig. 6). Then

carefully pour in melted lead or zinc to a depth of ¹⁄₈-inch. This

process is not absolutely necessary, but is advisable if the metal be

available and the extra trouble is not distasteful.

When this metal has thoroughly cooled, melt up sufficient rough resin to

just overflow the tin, pour it in and allow to solidify properly without

the least disturbance (D, Fig. 6).

For the upper part of the electrophorus, take a disc of tin or brass,

absolutely flat, and of the same diameter as the resin surface (E, Fig.

6). In the center of its upper side solder a short piece of brass tube

(F, Fig. 6), the correct internal width to fit tightly on a 12-inch

length of polished wood rod, cut, say, from a walking-stick (G, Fig. 6).

The drawing shows the general arrangement of this electrophorus,

wherewith, by the help of a piece of fur, electricity may be generated.

A small cavity must be made in the resin, just above the screw (H, Fig.

6), so that the point of the latter may be clearly seen.

[Illustration: FIG. 7.--The discharger.]

DISCHARGER

One last piece of apparatus--the simplest in construction--remains to be

made. Bend a piece of stout brass wire into a semicircle (A, Fig. 7);

then, having flattened it at the middle, pass through a hole at the end

of a wooden handle (B, Fig. 7), and fix in position by means of a tiny

glued wedge (C, Fig. 7). Next twist the rod at both ends into loops, and

wrap tinfoil round so as to form metal knobs (D, Fig. 7). Brass balls

may be used instead. This arrangement is now complete, and we may

commence experimenting.

11. Twist a stout piece of copper wire surmounted by a brass or tinfoil

ball round the outside coating of a Leyden jar (A, Fig. 8), so that the

two knobs are about 3 inches apart. Suspend a pith ball (B, Fig. 8),

made from dried wood pith, by silk thread (C, Fig. 8) from some support

above, so that it hangs normally midway between the two knobs.

Next excite the resin surface of the electrophorus by rubbing with a

dry rabbit’s fur, muff, or flannel; and, holding the cover of this

instrument by the handle’s extreme end, place it upon the resin. Remove

immediately and bring near to the knob, which connects with the interior

of the Leyden condenser, at the same time touching its outer tinfoil

surface with the finger. A spark should pass between the electrophorus

cover and the Leyden jar, whereupon, if the former and finger be

removed, and the pith ball allowed to drop into position, this will

oscillate violently to and fro between the knobs.

[Illustration: FIG. 8.--Oscillating pith ball.]

[Illustration: FIG. 9.--Sparks from discharger and Leyden jar.]

12. Construct a Leyden jar with knob terminal similar to that previously

described, but cover part way up the outside with gold paint (A, Fig.

9), instead of tinfoil. Charge this condenser by means of the

electrophorus cover, as described in experiment 11, and if sufficient

induction does not take place with one contact, replace the metal disc

on the resin and pass a spark to the Leyden condenser knob several

times, taking care to touch the gold paint coating with the finger on

each occasion. If now the semicircular discharger, held by the wood

handle, be brought so that one knob touches that of the Leyden condenser

whilst the other moves over the gold-paint surface, long series of

sparks, differing greatly in appearance from any previously produced,

will pass between the gilt and the discharger.

13. Excite a stick of sealing-wax by rubbing with flannel, and bring it

against a pith ball suspended by silk. The sealing-wax was negatively

charged, and the pith ball is now in a like condition. To prove this,

approach the flannel which excited the wax, and had consequently

acquired a positive charge; inasmuch as the pith ball is immediately

attracted and we know that positively excited bodies have an affinity

for those negatively affected, the pith ball must be of the latter

character.

If, further, a glass rod be excited by rubbing with silk and brought

near to the negative pith ball, the latter will again be attracted,

showing the glass to be positively charged.

On the other hand, the silk rubber repels a pith ball which has been in

contact with excited sealing-wax, in the same way as it will repel the

latter substance itself if suspended freely, thus indicating that the

silk is similarly, _i.e._ negatively charged.

The phenomenon of positive and negative electricity may be somewhat

differently demonstrated by means of the electroscope. Touch the

terminal of this instrument with rubbed sealing-wax. The gold leaves

diverge. Moreover, they may be thrown farther asunder by bringing the

electrophorus resin near, so that evidently the charge of this

instrument is also negative. Perhaps as a diversion it may be noted that

resin is one of the chief ingredients of sealing-wax. The electroscope

leaves remain apart even when the electrified body has been removed, but

they may be made to collapse by touching the knob with the finger or

bringing an excited glass rod near. The former action “earths” (_i.e._

connects, _via_ the person’s body, with the house walls and the earth)

the gold leaves and allows the electrical charge to escape, whilst the

latter operation counteracts the negative charge by virtue of the

positively excited glass.

14. If the electrophorus and electroscope be placed as shown in Fig. 10,

the gold leaves being already held asunder by a negative charge from

sealing-wax, and the cover of the first instrument be lifted, whilst a

strip of cardboard bridges from its upper surface to the disc terminal

of the electroscope (A, Fig. 10), the instrument’s leaves will fall

together again. From this behavior it may be gathered that the charge on

the upper surface of the electrophorus cover is positive, or opposite in

character to that induced by rubbing on the resin cake.

[Illustration: FIG. 10.--An experiment with the electrophorus and

electroscope.]

15. Stand a charged Leyden jar and the electroscope close together on

the table. They must not be so near, however, that the gold leaves are

affected by the condenser’s presence.

If, now, a few pieces of sulphur, spread upon the Leyden jar’s disc

terminal, be ignited so as to burn freely, the gold leaves will

immediately diverge slightly, indicating that part of the electric

charge, which is being rapidly dissipated by way of the flame into the

atmosphere, has traced a path to the electroscope.

[Illustration: FIG. 11.--The swinging mannikin.]

16. An amusing variation of experiment 11, wherein a pith ball was

rendered restless between the two terminals of a Leyden condenser, is

constituted by carefully modeling a little seated figure out of pith and

sealing-wax. The mannikin is threaded on a silk strand, so that the legs

hang down as though seated on a swing, and is then suspended by tying

the two silk ends to a support above. Fig. 11 indicates the

arrangements.

Two Leyden jars are next required, of opposite influences. To effect

this, charge one by the ordinary method of touching its terminal several

times with an electrophorus cover, being careful on each occasion to

“earth” the outer surface, whilst the other condenser is charged by

presenting its _outer_ surface to the electrophorus cover, and each time

touching the knob terminal with the finger, _i.e._ “earthing” it.

By this method, whilst the charge at the knob of one Leyden jar is

positive, that at the terminal of the other is negative. Place these two

instruments at equal distances on either side of the “swing” support,

and at such an elevation that the pith figure may just touch the brass

knobs.

Then, if the swing be started going, it should continue to oscillate for

a considerable time. As the pith figure approaches, say, the positive

knob, it acquires a negative charge and is thereby attracted. Directly

it touches, however, this negative state is counteracted, a positive

charge supersedes it, and repulsion between pith figure and positive

knob ensues. The pith doll then swings over towards the negative knob

and--being positively influenced--is of course attracted until contact

takes place. Then negative supersedes positive in the pith figure,

repulsion again results, and a similar cycle of changes is repeated.

Thus the figure continues to oscillate until the charges of the jars

have been exhausted or have leaked away.

17. In the same manner as the alternate attraction and repulsion of a

light body has been used to maintain oscillation, so similarly an

electrostatic motor may be constructed embodying the same principles.

Cut out a 16-pointed star of cardboard, 8-inch diameter, and, having

glued a ¹⁄₄-inch slice of cork in the middle of each side (A, Fig. 12),

pass a knitting-needle through the star’s center at right angles (B,

Fig. 12). Both ends of this spindle rest in conical cavities (C, Fig.

12), which may be punched or drilled in small brass discs to act as

bearings, and the apparatus is mounted as shown.

[Illustration: FIG. 12.--Electrostatic motor.]

It is important that the cardboard should be perfectly dry, and with

this end in view it may well have previously received a saturation in

paraffin wax. When set hard, stick a brass pin bent at right angles into

each point of the star, and set Leyden jars of different charges beneath

any two diametrically opposite points. The motor, being given a start,

should continue to revolve for some time owing to the succeeding

attraction and repulsion of the metal pins.

The following description is of a small machine which may be fairly

easily constructed, and when in good working order will give far better

results than the electrophorus. Fig. 13 shows the reference letters and

general arrangement. Two cork bungs (A, Fig. 13), previously saturated

with paraffin wax or shellac varnish, are fixed into the ends of a

cylindrical lamp chimney, and through a hole in the exact center of each

passes a wooden rod (B, Fig. 13), which must be glued in place. Each end

is supported in a wooden bearing (C, Fig. 13), black lead being used as

a lubricant, and to the protruding one a small handle (D, Fig. 13) is

fitted, wherewith the glass may be revolved. Next a long pad of wash

leather (E, Fig. 13), stuffed with horse-hair, is fixed so as to press

gently against the cylinder, whilst a silk flap (F, Fig. 13) about 2

inches wide hangs over the top surface of the glass. A brass chain (G,

Fig. 13) is also fixed to the wash-leather cushion and, in the ordinary

way, connects to “earth” either direct or through the operator. The

wash-leather cushion is well black-leaded where it touches the glass.

[Illustration: FIG. 13.--Frictional machine (more useful than the

electrophorus for producing electric charges).]

On the opposite side of the cylinder a metal comb (H, Fig. 13) is

supported, the teeth being ¹⁄₁₆-inch away from the glass, whilst the

back of the comb is soldered to a brass knob (I, Fig. 13) fixed on a

wood pedestal. Any noticeable edges at the base of the brass globe

should be filed off until only round surfaces are presented.

Care should be taken to dry the machine thoroughly, and if then the

handle be turned regularly, as indicated by the arrow, the brass knob

should rapidly become charged to such an extent that sparks may be drawn

with the knuckles, possibly with discomforting results!

If the brass ball possess any sharp edges or, alternatively, if a length

of wire girdle it so that one end projects radially about one inch, then

the electricity will leak from these extremities in the form of a glow

discharge as fast as it is developed. This frequently creates such a

disturbance in the surrounding air as to distinctly blow a candle flame

when held at the discharging point.

In 1752 Faraday invented an arrangement of attraction and repulsion by

which three bells were kept ringing. To the electrical machine conductor

was attached a metal support from the ends of which hung two bell domes

on brass chains, whilst from the center another was supported by a silk

strand and connected by a brass chain to earth. Between the bells small

brass clappers were hung by silk threads, as shown in Fig. 14.

The action in working was for the machine to charge its conductor and

hence the two outer bell domes, which then attracted their brass

clappers until contact took place. This caused repulsion, so that the

clappers swung over to the center dome, where discharge to earth ensued

and a condition obtained when the cycle of events might be repeated.

[Illustration: FIG. 14.--Faraday’s bell chimes.]

Having thus arrived, _via_ the simplest phenomena, at a piece of

mechanism which will work, our experiments in the field of static

electricity must conclude; but rather, let it be noted, on account of a

dearth of apparatus than from any scarcity of phenomena to be studied.

If therefore the reader foresees an opportunity of pursuing the subject

further, such for example as the use of a well-equipped laboratory, let

him not hesitate to snatch the advantage. To mention two facts

demonstrable by further experiment: (1) Frictional electricity is

produced in excessively small quantities at a very high pressure. For

this reason sparks in air may be produced frictionally of such a length

as cannot be obtained direct from batteries. (2) Friction itself is not

a necessary element in the production of electrical energy, but is

adopted in order to bring every portion of the rubbed surfaces into

perfect contact. Thus far and no further. We must say “Au revoir,” and

splash down a full stop.

[1] For the experiments in this and the following chapter I am

indebted to the assistance rendered by Mr. Stanley S. Barnard.--C. H.

B.

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