TEXTILE FABRICS USED AS GROUNDS FOR EMBROIDERY.
LINENS.
There are many varieties of unglazed, half-bleached linens, from that
thirty-six and forty inches wide, used for chair-back covers, to that
ninety inches wide, used for large table-covers, curtains, &c. There
are also endless varieties of fancy linens, both of hand and
power-loom weaving, for summer dresses, for bed furniture, chair-back
covers, table-cloths, &c.
* * * * *
_Flax_ is the unbleached brown linen, often used for chair-back
covers.
* * * * *
_Twill_ is a thick linen suitable for coverings for furniture.
* * * * *
_Kirriemuir Twill_ is a fine twilled linen made at Kirriemuir, and is
good for tennis aprons, dresses, curtains, &c.
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_Sailcloth_ is a stout linen, of yellow colour, and is only suitable
for screen panels.
* * * * *
_Oatcake Linen_, so called from its resemblance to Scotch oatcake, has
been popular for screen panels or washstand backs. It is very coarse
and rough.
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_Oatmeal Linen_ is finer and of a greyer tone. It is also used for
screens, and for smaller articles.
* * * * *
_Smock Linen_ is a strong even green cloth. It makes an excellent
ground for working screens, and is also used for tennis aprons.
* * * * *
_Crash._--Properly speaking, the name "_crash_" is only applied to the
coarse Russian home-spun linen, which has been such a favourite from
the beauty of its tone of colour. It is, however, erroneously applied
to all linens used for embroidery, whether woven by hand-loom or
machinery; and this confusion of names frequently leads to mistakes.
Crash is almost always very coarse, is never more than eighteen inches
wide, and cannot be mistaken for a machine-made fabric. It is woven by
the Russian peasants in their own homes, in lengths varying from five
to ten yards, and, therefore, though sent over in large bales, it is
very difficult to find two pieces among a hundred that in any way
match each other.
* * * * *
_Bolton, or Workhouse Sheeting_, is a coarse twilled cotton fabric,
seventy-two inches wide, of a beautiful soft creamy colour, which
improves much in washing. It is inexpensive, and an excellent ground
for embroidery, either for curtains, counterpanes, chair coverings, or
for ladies' dresses, or tennis aprons.
It resembles the twilled cotton on which so much of the old crewel
embroidery was worked in the seventeenth century, and is one of the
most satisfactory materials when of really good quality.
* * * * *
All descriptions of linen, except the "oatcake" and "sailcloth," can
be embroidered in the hand.
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TEXTILE FABRICS.
SATINS AND SILKS.
_Satins and Silks_ can only be embroidered in a frame. Furniture
satins of stout make, with cotton backs, may be used without backing;
but ordinary dress satins require to have a thin cotton or linen
backing to bear the strains of the work and framing. Nothing is more
beautiful than a rich white satin for a dress embroidered in coloured
silks.
For fans, a very fine, closely woven satin is necessary, as it will
not fold evenly unless the satin is thin; and yet it must be rich
enough to sustain the fine embroidery, without pulling, or looking
poor. A special kind of satin is made for the manufacture of fans, and
none other is available.
* * * * *
"_Silk Sheeting_" of good quality, "_Satin de Chine_" and other
silk-faced materials of the same class, may either be embroidered in
the hand, or framed; but for large pieces of work a frame is
essential. These materials are suitable for curtains, counterpanes,
piano coverings, or panels, and indeed for almost any purpose. The
finer qualities are very beautiful for dresses, as they take rich and
graceful folds, and carry embroidery well.
* * * * *
_Tussore and Corah Silks_ are charming for summer dresses, light
chair-back covers, or embroidered window blinds. They will only bear
light embroidering in silk or filoselle.
Within the last year successful experiments have been made in dyeing
these Indian silks in England. The exact shades which we admire so
much in the old Oriental embroideries have been reproduced, with the
additional advantage of being perfectly fast in colour.
Nothing can be more charming as lining for table-covers, screens,
curtains, &c.; and they are rather less expensive than other lining
silks.
The fabrics known as _Plain Tapestries_ are a mixture of silk and
cotton, manufactured in imitation of the handworked backgrounds so
frequent in ancient embroideries--especially Venetian. Almost all the
varieties of _Opus Pulvinarium_, or cushion stitch, have been
reproduced in these woven fabrics.
* * * * *
_Brocatine_ is a silk-faced material, woven to imitate couched
embroidery. The silk is thrown to the surface and is tied with cotton
threads from the back.
As ground for embroidery it has an excellent effect.
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TEXTILE FABRICS.
COTTONS AND WOOLLENS.
_Velveteen_, if of good quality, makes an excellent ground for screen
panels, chair-covers, portières, curtains, borders, &c. It can be
worked in the hand if the embroidery be not too heavy or large in
style.
* * * * *
_Utrecht Velvet_ is only suitable for coarse crewel or tapestry wool
embroidery. It is fit for curtain dados or wide borderings.
* * * * *
_Velvet Cloth_ is a rich plain cloth, finished without any gloss. It
is a good ground for embroidery, either for curtains or altar-cloths.
It is two yards wide.
* * * * *
_Felt_ is sometimes used for the same purposes, but does not wear
nearly so well, and is difficult to work.
* * * * *
_Diagonal Cloth_ can be worked either in the hand or frame, although
it is always much better in the latter. It is used for table-covers,
curtains, chair-seats, &c.
* * * * *
_Serge_ is usually made thirty-six inches wide. It has long been in
favour for curtains, small table-covers, dresses, &c. It can now be
obtained at the school fifty-four inches wide, in many shades.
* * * * *
_Soft or Super Serge_, also fifty-four inches wide, is an excellent
material, much superior in appearance to diagonal cloth, or to the
ordinary rough serge. It takes embroidery well.
* * * * *
_Cricketing flannel_ is used for coverlets for cots, children's
dresses, and many other purposes. It is of a beautiful creamy colour,
and is a good ground for fine crewel or silk embroidery. It need not
be worked in a frame.
* * * * *
_Genoa or Lyons Velvet_ makes a beautiful ground for embroidery; but
it can only be worked in a frame, and requires to be "backed" with a
thin cotton or linen lining, if it is to sustain any mass of
embroidery. For small articles, such as sachets or casket-covers, when
the work is fine and small, the backing is not necessary. Screen
panels of velvet, worked wholly in crewels, or with crewel brightened
with silk, are very effective. Three-piled velvet is the best for
working upon, but is so expensive that it is seldom asked for.
* * * * *
_Silk Velvet Plush_ (a new material) can only be used in frame work,
and must be backed. It is useful in "appliqué" from the many beautiful
tones of colour it takes. As a ground for silk or gold embroidery it
is also very good.
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TEXTILE FABRICS.
GOLD AND SILVER CLOTH.
_Cloth of Gold or Silver_ is made of threads of silk woven with metal,
which is thrown to the surface. In its best form it is extremely
expensive, varying from £4 to £6 per yard, according to the weight of
gold introduced. Cloth of silver is generally £3 the yard.
* * * * *
Inferior kinds of these cloths are made in which silk largely
predominates, and shows plainly on the surface. They are frequently
woven in patterns, such as diaper or diagonal lines, with a tie of red
silk, in imitation of the diaper patterns of couched embroidery.
They are chiefly used in ecclesiastical or heraldic embroidery; their
great expense preventing their general use.
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