_Of the Avenue to_ Stonehenge.
The Avenue of _Stonehenge_ was never observ’d by any who have wrote
of it, tho’ a very elegant part of it, and very apparent. It answers,
as we have said before now, to the principal line of the whole work,
the northeast, where abouts the sun rises, when the days are longest.
_Plutarch_ in the life of _Numa_ says, the ancients observ’d the
rule of setting their temples, with the front to meet the rising
sun. _Promachidas_ of _Heracleum_, and _Dionysius Thrax_ take notice
of the same thing. And this was done in imitation of the _Mosaic_
tabernacle and _Solomon_’s temple: probably a patriarchal rite. This
avenue extends itself, somewhat more than 1700 feet, in a strait line,
down to the bottom of the valley, with a delicate descent. I observe
the earth of the ditches is thrown inward, and seemingly some turf on
both sides, thrown upon the avenue: to raise it a little above the
level of the downs. The two ditches continue perfectly parallel to the
bottom, 40 cubits asunder. About midway, there is a pretty depressure,
natural, which diversifies it agreeably. _Stonehenge_, I said, is not
on the highest part of the hill. I found, the reason, why the Druids
set it just where it is; because it is precisely 1000 cubits from the
bottom to the entrance of the _area_. When I began my inquiries into
this noble work, I thought it terminated here, and Mr. _Roger Gale_
and myself measur’d it so far with a chain. Another year, I found it
extended itself much farther. For at the bottom of the valley, it
divides into two branches. The eastern branch goes a long way hence,
directly east pointing to an ancient ford of the river _Avon_, called
_Radfin_, and beyond that the visto of it bears directly to _Harradon_
hill beyond the river. The western branch, from this termination at
the bottom of the hill 1000 cubits from the work at _Stonehenge_, as
we said, goes off with a similar sweep at first; but then it does
not throw itself into a strait line immediately, as the former, but
continues curving along the bottom of the hill, till it meets, what
I call, the _cursus_. This likewise is a new unobserv’d curiosity
belonging to this work, and very much enlarges the idea we ought to
entertain, of the magnificence and prodigious extent of the thing. The
temple which we have been hitherto describing, considerable indeed as
it really is, in itself; yet now appears as a small part of the whole.
I shall therefore describe all these parts separately, to render them
more intelligible: and then show their connection, and what relation
they have, to one another, as well as I can. But it is not easy to
enter at once, into the exceeding greatness of thought, which these
people had, who founded it; bringing in all the adjacent country,
the whole of nature hereabouts, to contribute its part to the work.
Therefore I shall discourse of it backward and forward; first going
from _Stonehenge_ to its termination, or more properly its beginning,
and then return again. Explaining all the way, what is its present
condition, and what, ’tis reasonable to suppose, was its original, when
the Druids made their first design. This together with the several
views I have drawn of it, will give us nearly as good a notion of the
whole, as we can at this day expect, and perhaps preserve the memory of
it hereafter, when the traces of this mighty work are obliterated with
the plough, which it is to be fear’d, will be its fate. That instrument
gaining ground too much, upon the ancient and innocent pastoritial
life; hereabouts, and everywhere else in _England_: and by destructive
inclosures beggars and depopulates the country.
At the bottom of the valley, and the end of the strait part of
_Stonehenge_ avenue, 1000 cubits from _Stonehenge_, as we said, the
eastern wing of the avenue turns off to the right, with a circular
sweep, and then in a strait line proceeds eastward up the hill. It goes
just between those two most conspicuous groups of barrows, crowning
the ridge of that hill eastward of _Stonehenge_; between it and
_Vespasian_’s camp, separated from them both by a deep valley on each
side. These two groups of barrows are called generally the seven king’s
graves, each. I call that most northerly, the old seven kings graves,
for there are really 7, tho’ but 6 most apparent; they are all set at
greater distance, all broader, flatter, and as it is most reasonable
to suppose, older than the other. The other are set closer together,
of a more elegantly turn’d figure, campaniform, and in all appearance,
much later than the former. Therefore I call these, being southward
and directly between _Stonehenge_ and the town of _Ambresbury_, the
new seven kings barrows. Of the seven old, the most northerly one and
probably the oldest, is exceeding flat and as it were, almost sunk
into the earth with age; so that it is scarce visible at a distance.
The avenue runs up to the top of the hill, just between them: and they
make as it were wings to it, and I believe were design’d as such, when
set there. When the avenue first turns off in the valley, it is much
obscur’d by the wheels of carriages going over it, for a great way
together: for this is the road to _Lavington_. Nevertheless a curious
eye, without difficulty, sees all the traces of it sufficiently, till
it is got higher up the easy ascent of the hill, and out of the common
road. Then it is very apparent and consists of the two little ditches
as before, (when coming directly from _Stonehenge_) exactly parallel,
and still 40 cubits asunder. And it is made with the same degree of
variation, or about 6 degrees southward from the true east point. So
that it is evident again, the Druids intended it should go full east,
but their compass by which they set it, varied so much at that time,
according to my opinion of the matter. To perpetuate the mark of it as
much as I can: I measured the distance of it from the southern ditch
thereof, to the ditch of the nearest _i. e._ most northerly of the new
7 kings barrows, and when in the right line of those 7 barrows: it is
257 feet. I know not whether there was any design in it, but it is
exactly 150 cubits. From the northern ditch of the avenue here, to the
nearest of the old seven kings barrows, is 350 foot; which is exactly
200 cubits.
Whilst we are here upon the elevation of this hill, between these two
groups of barrows, ’tis 2700 feet from the beginning of this wing of
the avenue at the bottom of the valley, where it commences. It still
continues in the very same direction eastward, till unfortunately
broke off by the plow’d ground, 300 feet from hence. This plow’d
ground continues for a mile together, as far as the river’s side at
_Ambresbury_. So that ’tis impossible to trace it any farther. The
first plow’d field, that southward, is Mr. _Hayward_’s; the other is of
a different estate, call’d _Countess-farm_. And the plowing of these
two go on at right angles one of another. That piece on the north
side of the avenue, of the latter tenure, goes along the line of the
avenue, is long and narrow, and has (as usual with greedy farmers)
encroach’d upon and swallow’d up so much of the length of the avenue.
And that amounts to 750 feet more in length, which must certainly
be added to the avenue. This is all along the eastern declivity of
the hill we are upon, _that_ of the twice seven kings graves, and
reaches near the bottom of the valley, between it and the hill whereon
stands _Vespasian_’s camp. Now reason and the judgment I have got
in conversing with works of this kind, tell me, the founders would
never begin this avenue at the bottom of a valley, but rather on a
conspicuous height, which is visible from a great distance of country
round. We must suppose the intent of the avenue was to direct the
religious procession to the temple; and that at the beginning of it,
they made fires early in the morning of that day, when they held their
grand festivals, to give notice to all the adjacent country. Therefore
when we cross this valley still eastward, with the former direction of
the compass, and mount that next hill, whereon stands _Vespasian_’s
camp: we find exactly such a place as we could wish, and extremely
suitable to that purpose, For it commands a very extensive prospect
both upwards and downwards of the river, and on the other side of it,
for many miles; all about that part of the country where it is highly
reasonable to think the old _Britons_ liv’d, who frequented this
temple. This eminence is north of _Vespasian_’s camp, north-west from
_Ambresbury_ church. Here is a very large scene of the country taken
in. It has a fine gentle rise for half a mile and more, even quite from
the ford at _Radfin_. You see the most delightful river _Avon_ flank’d
with villages on both sides, from almost as far as new _Sarum_, and
then to the head of it, 5 miles off. It was the custom of the Druids
to give notice, by fires, of the quarterly days of sacrifice. Thus
the Druids in _Ireland_ before christianity, us’d to kindle a fire
call’d in their language _Tlachdgha_, on _All saints_ eve, to perform a
general sacrifice: as Mr. _Llwyd_ mentions in his _Irish_ dictionary.
Mr. _Toland_ speaks of others too. I observ’d there has been a bank
across the bottom of the valley, for the more easy passage of the
religious ceremony, and this much corroborates my conjecture of the
avenue reaching hither.
[Illustration: _P. 36._ TAB. XIX.
_Inward View of Stonehenge from the high altar. Aug. 1722._
_Stukeley delin._ _V^{dr.} Gucht sc._]
_Plate_ XXIV. explains all that I have last said about this avenue, and
shews its direction to _Haradon_ Hill, on the other side the river.
I am apt to believe from the conformity I have observ’d in these works,
that there was a _sacellum_ or little temple here upon this hill,
where the avenue began. We suppose this might easily be destroy’d when
they began to plow here, being so near the town. I have found several
of these kind of large stones, either travelling to _Stonehenge_, or
from it. One as big as any at _Stonehenge_, lies about 3 miles off
northward, in _Durington_ fields. Another in the water at _Milford_,
another at _Fighelden_; they seem to have been carried back to make
bridges, mildams or the like, in the river. There is another in the
_London_ road, east from _Ambresbury_, about 2 mile from the town.
Another in the water at _Bulford_. A stone stands leaning at _Preshute_
farm near the church, as big as those at _Stonehenge_. What confirms me
in the conjecture that there was a _sacellum_ here originally, is, that
an innumerable company of barrows on the opposite hill, on the other
side of the river coming down _Haradon_, and in the line of the avenue
seem to regard it; as is usual in these works. For those barrows are
not in sight of _Stonehenge_ itself, by reason of the interposition of
the hill whereon stand the double groups of seven king’s graves. And
even those two groups seem to regard this little temple as well as the
great one, curving that way. The distance from hence to _Stonehenge_ is
4000 cubits.
In order to have a just notion of this avenue, it is necessary to go to
the neighbouring height of _Haradon_ hill, on the other side the river.
The largest barrow there, which I call _Hara_’s and which probably gave
name to the hill, is in the line of the avenue; the ford of _Radfin_
lying between, as we see in the last _Plate_. I stood upon this hill
_May_ 11. 1724. during the total eclipse of the sun, of which I gave an
account in my _Itinerarium_. Here is a most noble view of the work and
country about _Stonehenge_. Whoever is upon the spot cannot fail of a
great pleasure in it; especially if the sun be low, either after rising
or before setting. For by that means the barrows, the only ornaments
of these plains, become very visible, the ground beyond them being
illuminated by the suns slaunting rays. You see as far as _Clay-hill_
beyond _Warminster_ 20 miles off. You see the spot of ground on the
hill, whereon stands _Vespasian_’s camp, where I conjecture the
avenue to _Stonehenge_ began, and where there was a _sacellum_, as we
conceive. From hence to that spot a valley leads very commodiously to
_Radfin_, where the original ford was.
This _Radfin-farm_ seems to retain its _Celtic_ name: meaning a ford
or passage for chariots, the old way of carriage here used. _Rhedeg_
_currere_, _rhedegfain_ _cursitare_, in _Irish reathaim_. _Fin_ in the
old _Irish_, is white. It regards the chalky road which went up from
the ford. ’Tis a pretty place, seated in a flexure of the river, which
from hence seems to bend its arms both ways, to embrace the beginning
of the avenue. The place is very warm, shelter’d from all winds, and
especially from the north. I am persuaded it was originally a seat
of an Archdruid or Druid. See Mr. _Toland_ discoursing of the Druids
houses, p. 111. The nuns of _Ambresbury_ too had a chapel there. The
ford is now quite disus’d, because of the bridge by the town’s end; and
the road of it is foreclos’d by hedgerows of pastures on both sides the
lane, leading northwards from _Ambresbury_ to north _Wiltshire_. This
road lying between _Radfin_ and the beginning of _Stonehenge_ avenue,
is sweetly adorn’d with _viorna_. We are supposed now to stand on the
_tumulus_ of _Hara_, an old _Irish_ royal name, and possibly the king
who was coadjutor in founding _Stonehenge_, who lived, it’s likely, in
the eastern part of _Wiltshire_: for which reason they directed the
avenue this way.
_Et nunc servat honos sedem, tuus, ossaque nomen._
Here are very many barrows upon this side of the hill, all looking
toward the sacred work. Hence we survey _Ambresbury_, _Vespasian_’s
camp, and _Stonehenge_, the _cursus_, and little _Ambresbury_. Likewise
a very ancient barrow which answers to that of _Vespasian_’s camp,
seeming to be plac’d here with some regularity and regard to the
_sacellum_ at the beginning of the avenue. This is a long barrow,
which I suppose the Archdruids who liv’d at _Radfin_, and perhaps the
chief person concern’d in projecting the magnificent work. The reader
must indulge me the liberty of these kind of conjectures; there is
no evidence positive left in such matters of great antiquity. I have
some little reason for it, which I shall mention when we speak of the
barrows. There is this present use, to affix thereby names to things,
that we may talk more intelligibly about them.
We are next to advance down _Haradon_-hill in the same direction,
nearer _Radfin_, from whence I drew _Plate_ XXV. This valley leads us
very gently to the river.
——————_Qua se subducere colles
Incipiunt, mollique jugum demittere clivo
Usque ad aquam._—————— Virg.
This and the two views in _Plate_ XXVI. give us a good notion of the
country on this side. There are seven barrows together, in the road
from _Ambresbury_ to _Radfin_, one great one and six little ones, which
regard the _sacellum_, but cannot possibly to _Stonehenge_. This was a
family burying-place probably of some considerable personage, who liv’d
at _Ambresbury_. These plates show us too, the avenue marching up the
next hill, where the old and new seven kings barrows receive it again,
as wings to it. This is shown more distinct in the next plate, TAB.
XXVII. where the corn ground has began to encroach upon it. I could
scarce forbear the wish,
_Pereat labor irritus anni._————
When you are gone a little farther toward _Stonehenge_, and arriv’d
at the top of the hill, if you turn back you have the view presented
to you like that TAB. XXIV. beyond A the beginning of the avenue,
is _Radfin_, beyond that _Haradon_. The prospect forward, toward
_Stonehenge_, is shown TAB. XXVIII. There you see the union of the two
wings of the avenue, at the commencement of the strait part of it C.
Again, you may observe the nature of the west wing of the avenue, going
with a continued curve round the bottom of the hill, till it enters the
_Hippodrom_ or _cursus_. At a distance you see _Yansbury_ camp, thought
to be another of _Vespasian_’s. Next you descend into the valley to
the union of the wings of the avenue, and ascend the agreeable part
of it, to the temple. Along here went the sacred pomp. How would it
delight one to have seen it in its first splendor!
[Illustration: _P. 38._ TAB. XX.
_Stukeley delin._ _Toms sculp^t._
_An inward view of Stonehenge from behind y^e high Altar looking
towards the grand entrance A little oblique_ Aug:1722.