* * * * *
The Fetish-huts and tree at Badagry — Owing to the insinuations of the
Portuguese the Author is compelled by the priests of the Fetish, to
swallow bitter water, being the only European that ever underwent that
dreadful ordeal — His reflections when informed of the circumstance —
Astonishing preservation from an expected cruel death — Sacrifices of
human beings under the branches of the Fetish-tree, exceeding in
atrocity all previous accounts — Song of the inhabitants with Adólee at
their head, on the occasion — The Author, on his visit to a Portuguese
pirate, discovers the sacred Fetish-tree of the Badagrians growing in
the heart of a forest, and covered with the dismembered corpses of human
beings — Remarks on the Portuguese.
In the private fetish-hut of the King Adólee, at Badagry, the skull of
that monarch’s father is preserved in a clay vessel, placed in the
earth. Human blood, as well as the blood of birds and beasts, is
occasionally sprinkled on it; and when the king goes to war, that same
skull is invariably carried with him, with which he frequently
converses, and gently rebukes it, if his success does not happen to
answer his expectations. “If this custom be neglected,” said Adólee,
“the virtues and martial energy of my deceased father would cease to
influence my actions, and defeat and disgrace would attend all my
warlike undertakings.” The people of Badagry regard this skull with the
same veneration as the Turks do the sacred banner of their Prophet; and
believe, that should it be missed through any casualty, or captured by
the enemy, the destiny of their prince would be sealed for ever, and the
pillars of their monarchy crumble into dust, so that they would no
longer be a people!
There is another fetish-hut at Badagry, the interior of which is
positively ornamented with rows of human skulls, and other emblems of
mortality, whitened by time, and having a most terrific appearance. In
this Pagan sanctuary all suspected persons go through the ordeal of
bitter (poisonous) water, in order to ascertain their guilt or
innocence; and death, which in almost all cases ensues shortly after the
prisoner receives the fatal draught into his stomach, is considered by
the people as a sure criterion of the former; whilst, if the culprit has
the good fortune to escape with life, which rarely happens, he is
pronounced free of the allegations brought against him, and immediately
acquitted.
At a short distance from this gloomy hut stands a fetish-tree, on the
branches of which the headless bodies of human beings, slaughtered under
them, are invariably suspended.
I did not think, as I strolled one day to the spot, and scrutinized the
exterior of the fetish-hut, that I myself was so shortly to enter its
doors, and be tried with bitter water by its inexorable priests, in
order to prove whether I was a good or bad man, a friend or foe to their
nation!
But the calumnies of the Portuguese had recently begun to display their
effects very strikingly; Adólee had latterly behaved in a cold and
distant manner to me; and his chiefs studiously shunned my presence
whenever they observed me approaching them.
One morning, as I was taking my solitary breakfast of palm oil and
Indian corn, I was startled by a message from the king, commanding me to
repair at noon-tide to the fetish-hut, and be examined by the priests,
who would be there assembled, to answer certain charges that would be
brought against me. I was well aware in what manner my trial was to be
conducted; and I could not forbear exclaiming to myself, as I mused on
the dreadful fate which I imagined awaited me: “Well, then, here will be
an end to my wanderings and my life; yet, having escaped so many
dangers, and encountered such grievous afflictions, it is hard, after
all, to cast off the fardel of existence thus prematurely; it is hard,
when almost within hearing of my countrymen, that my life should be
destroyed; that my skull should be preserved as a trophy by heartless
savages, and my body be devoured by ravens and other birds of prey.” As
I was making this saddening, and perhaps unmanly soliloquy, tears rushed
involuntarily into my eyes, but, hastily wiping them off, I employed the
little time allotted me in making my peace with Heaven, so that when the
fellows came to conduct me to the fetish-hut, I was calm and collected,
and prepared to undergo the severest punishment which the power of man
could inflict upon me.
The news of the white man’s arrest, and approaching trial, spread like
wild-fire through the town, and the inhabitants, assembling from all
parts, armed with axes, spears, clubs, and bows and arrows, followed the
procession to the dismal spot. On entering the hut, I beheld a number of
priests and elders of the people, seated in a circle, who desired me to
stand in the midst of them. When I had complied with their request, one
of the priests arose, and presenting me with a bowl, containing about a
quart of a clear liquid, scarcely distinguishable from water, cried out
in a loud voice, and with much emphasis, “You are accused, white man, of
designs against our king and his government, and are therefore desired
to drink the contents of this vessel, which, if the reports to your
prejudice be true, will surely destroy you; whereas, if they be without
foundation, you need not fear, Christian; the fetish will do you no
injury, for our gods will do that which is right.”
[Illustration]
I took the bowl in my trembling hand, and gazed for a moment on the
sable countenances of my judges; but not a single look of compassion
shone upon any of them; a dead silence prevailed in the gloomy sanctuary
of skulls; every eye was intently fixed upon me; and seeing no
possibility of escape, or of evading the piercing glance of the priests
and elders, I offered up, internally, a short prayer to the Throne of
Mercy,—to the God of Christians,—and hastily swallowed the fetish,
dashing the poison-chalice to the ground. A low murmur ran through the
assembly; they all thought I should instantly have expired, or at least
have discovered symptoms of severe agony, but detecting no such tokens,
they arose simultaneously, and made way for me to leave the hut. On
getting into the open air, I found my poor slaves in tears; they had
come, they said, to catch a last glimpse of their master; but when they
saw me alive and at liberty, they leaped and danced for joy, and
prepared a path for me through the dense mass of armed people. These,
set up an astounding shout at my unexpected appearance, and seemed
greatly pleased, (if I might be allowed to judge,) that I had not fallen
a victim to the influence of their fearful fetish. On arriving at my
dwelling, I took instant and powerful means to eject the venomous potion
from my stomach, and happily succeeded in the attempt.
I was told that the liquid I had swallowed was a decoction of the bark
of a tree abounding in the neighbourhood, and that I was the only
individual who, for a long season, had escaped its poisonous qualities.
It had a disagreeably bitter taste, but I experienced no other ill
effects from it than a slight dizziness, which wore off completely a few
hours after the conclusion of the trial.
The dreadful charm having been thus providentially broken, all the cold
reserve and stiffness of Adólee and his chiefs suddenly disappeared; and
they visited me voluntarily a few days afterwards with presents of
provisions, &c. observing frequently that the Portuguese were wicked
men, but that I was a good man, under the special protection of the
white man’s God, who would suffer no evil to come near me. The Houssa
mallams were also permitted to introduce themselves into my society;
neither did they come empty-handed, so that I scarcely regretted having
drunk the fetish; for instead of suffering and death, from which I had
not entertained even a hope of escaping, the most pleasing and
flattering results were the consequence of my conforming to the customs
of the inhabitants. On walking through the streets I was pointed at as
the wonderful man, whom it would be dangerous to insult; my society was
courted by all ranks; and from that hour my reputation stood singularly
high with the people of Badagry, to the infinite chagrin of the
malicious Portuguese, who thus saw the complete failure of their
artfully laid plot, by the very means which they had fondly hoped would
have been the instruments of my destruction.
Thieves, and other offenders, together with the remnant of the
unpurchased slaves who are not drowned along with their companions in
misfortune and misery, are reserved by the Badagrians to sacrifice to
their gods; which horrid ceremony takes place at least once a month.
Prisoners taken in war are also immolated, to appease the manes of the
soldiers of Adólee slain in battle; and as, of all atrocities, the
manner in which these wretches are slaughtered is the most barbarous, it
may not perhaps be improper or ill-timed to give a detailed account of
it in this place. Each criminal being conducted to the fetish-tree, a
flask of rum is given him to drink, whilst he is in the act of
swallowing which a fellow steals imperceptibly behind him, with a heavy
club or bludgeon, and inflicts a violent blow on the back of the head
with the murderous weapon, and, as it often happens, dashes out his
brains; so that the executioner has no occasion to repeat his stroke.
The senseless being is then taken to the fetish-hut, and a calabash or
gourd having been previously got ready, the head is severed from the
trunk with an axe, and the smoking blood gurgles into it. Whilst this is
in hand, other wretches, furnished with knives, &c. cut and mangle the
body, in order to extract the heart entire from the breast, which being
done, although it be yet warm and quivering with life, it is presented
to the king first, and afterwards to his wives and generals, who always
attend at the celebration of these sacrifices; and his majesty and suite
making an incision in it with their teeth, and partaking of the foamy
blood, which is likewise offered, the heart is exhibited to the
surrounding multitude. From the commencement of the proceedings under
the tree, the chiefs begin to sing or chaunt, the king’s wives and the
spectators assisting and joining in the chorus; and they never cease
till the body, with its head, heart, and blood, is borne from the spot,
when the multitude themselves take up the strain. The following lines
will serve to give an idea of the subject and nature of the song used on
the above occasions, which seldom, if ever, vary.
SONG OF THE BADAGRIANS AT THEIR HUMAN SACRIFICES.
When the blow the spirit lulls,
Bear him to the “House of Skulls;”
The calabash and gourd prepare—
The knife, the axe, the bow, the spear.
Faintly sighs the gasping breath;
_Agra’s_ eye-lids close in death!
’Tis done! the headless trunk remains,
Bleeding from a thousand veins.
Drink the blood! the heart-strings tear!
Wield the club, and shake the spear!
_Chorus._
Drink the blood! the heart-strings tear!
Wield the club, and shake the spear!
_Song._
Chieftains! where’s the foeman now?
Death smiles grimly on his brow,
And his quarter’d limbs shall be
Food for vultures on our tree.
King Adólee’s foes all must
Bend the neck, and kiss the dust,
Or, like Agra, they shall fall,
Snatch’d from Mercy’s trembling call.
Drink the blood! the heart-strings tear!
Wield the club, and shake the spear!
Who so base to turn in fight?
May his spirit sink in night—
May a curse attend his ways—
May Misfortune blast his days!
But Badagrians will not swerve;
Courage thrills in every nerve.
Smite your foes, Badagrians! smite!
Gleaming spears—resistless might—
Bending bows—the arrows’ spring—
Terror to your foemen bring.
Drink the blood! the heart-strings tear!
Wield the club, and shake the spear!
The bleeding heart, after being bitten by the king, and his principal
wives and head men, is affixed to the point of a tall spear, and, with
the calabash of blood and headless body, paraded through the town, and
followed by hundreds of spearmen and a dense crowd of people. Whoever
may express an inclination to bite the heart, or drink of the blood, has
it immediately presented to him for that purpose, the multitude dancing,
and singing:
As we gaze upon the slain,
Courage mounts in every vein:
Hearts of iron—breasts of steel
Bold Badagrians reveal.
_People, from their Dwellings:_
Lo! the bleeding heart appears,
Followed by a grove of spears;
Show it here—‘to me,’—‘to me;’
I long to taste, to feel, to see!
_Spearmen:_
Yes! your foeman’s blood is warm;
Trample on his ghastly form;
Slake your thirst with living gore;
Deeply drink; libations pour.
Gods! accept the sacrifice,
Of our great success the price.
Drink we the blood! the heart-strings tear!
Wield the club, and shake the spear!
_All the people in chorus:_
Wield the club, and shake the spear!
Drink the blood! the heart-strings tear!
Terror, terror, terror, cling
Round the foemen of our king!
What remains of the heart is then flung to the dogs, and the body, cut
in pieces, is stuck on the fetish-tree, where it is left till wholly
devoured by birds of prey.
Besides these butcheries, the Badagrians make a grand sacrifice, once a
year, under their sacred fetish-tree, growing in a wood, a few miles
from the city. These are offered to their malevolent Demon, or Spirit of
Evil, at whose shrine hundreds of human beings are annually immolated,
their corpses undergoing the same horrid process as that which has
already been described; only in this instance they are not removed from
the spot, but quartered and hung on the gigantic branches of the
venerable tree; and the skulls of the victims suffered to bleach in the
sun round the trunk of it.
By accident I had an opportunity of seeing this much-talked-of tree, a
day or two only after the celebration of one of the grand yearly
sacrifices, and it was the most ghastly and appalling object which I had
ever beheld. I was informed in the town one day that a Portuguese
schooner had proceeded along the coast towards the Bight of Benin, and
was then lying at _Adjeedore_, which is about fourteen miles from
Badagry. Of course I was anxious to get out of the country, by any
means, as quickly as possible, for, as may be supposed, I was heartily
and completely tired of my long residence in it, and eagerly grasped at
even the shadow of an opportunity that promised to bring about so
desirable a good. I resolved, at any rate, to have an interview with the
captain of the schooner; and, for this purpose, taking Pasko and Jowdie
with me, one cloudless morning I proceeded to Adjeedore. The path
leading to the place, however, winding through a thick wood, and being
crossed by other roads in all directions, we struck out of the right one
into another; and journeyed onwards without discovering our error for
some time afterwards. We had not advanced many miles into the country
before our noses were saluted with the most overpowering effluvia, like
those exhaled from putrid substances; but, notwithstanding this warning,
it did not occur to me at the time that the sacred fetish-tree of the
Badagrians lay in that direction. The air became more strongly
impregnated the further we proceeded; till at length it was wholly
insupportable, and I was obliged to cover my mouth and nose with a thick
handkerchief, which relieved, in some measure, its disagreeable effects,
We had travelled in this manner, as nearly as I could guess, about half
way to the place of our destination, or seven miles from Badagry, when
the so much dreaded fetish-tree suddenly burst upon my sight, its
enormous branches literally covered with fragments of human bodies, and
its majestic trunk surrounded by irregular heaps of hideous skulls,
which had been suffered to accumulate for many years previously. It was
standing in the centre of a large piece of open ground in the heart of
the forest; and was actually the largest tree I had ever seen. Thousands
of vultures, which had been scared away by our unwelcome intrusion, were
yet hovering round and over their disgusting food, and now and then
pouncing fearlessly upon a half-devoured arm or leg. Although scenes of
horror had become habitual and familiar to me, my feelings,
nevertheless, were not entirely blunted, and I encountered a more
violent shock, whilst staring at the overwhelming scene, than I ever
before experienced. I stood as if fascinated to the spot by the
influence of a torpedo, and stupidly gazed on the ghastly spectacle
before me, without the power of withdrawing my sight to more agreeable
objects, or even of moving hand or foot.
The huge branches of the fetish-tree, groaning beneath their burden of
human flesh and bones, and sluggishly waving in consequence of the hasty
retreat of the birds of prey; the intense and almost insufferable heat
of a vertical sun; the intolerable odour of the corrupt corpses; the
heaps of human heads, many of them apparently staring at me from hollows
which had once sparkled with living eyes; the awful stillness and
solitude of the place, disturbed only by the sighing of the conscious
wind through the sombre foliage, or at intervals by the frightful
screaming of voracious vultures, as they flapped their sable wings
almost in my face—all tended to overpower me; my heart sickened within
my bosom, a dimness came over my eyes, an irrepressible quivering
agitated my whole frame, my legs refused to support me, and, turning my
head, I fell senseless into the arms of Jowdie, my faithful slave! Pasko
assisted to bear me away from the scene of blood; and the two blacks
emptying a calabash of water they had brought with them on my head,
face, and breast, I slowly revived, and after a slight refreshment,
pursued my journey by another path.
On reaching Adjeedore, I did indeed meet with the vessel I had been
informed of at Badagry; but the ferocious appearance of her crew
startled me not a little. The men were a mixture of Portuguese and
Brazilians, completely armed with pistols, cutlasses, and dirks; and
each furnished with a long black beard, which heightened, perhaps, the
fierceness of their looks. The Captain (Don Pedro he called himself,)
received me politely; and after I had made him acquainted with my
errand, which was simply to ask if he had any objection to convey me and
my slaves to Cape Coast Castle without delay, he took me into his cabin,
and treated me with the best his ship afforded. In the course of our
conversation I thought he was rather too inquisitive as to the amount of
property I had at Badagry; but this, I concluded, arose from a spirit of
curiosity, rather than from any other reason. Every arrangement having
been entered into to the apparent satisfaction of both parties, I shook
hands with the Captain, and towards evening returned to Badagry. On
making inquiries in the town next day, I learnt from the Portuguese that
the said Don Pedro was a noted pirate who had infested the seas for a
long period previously, and that his sole intention, after getting me
and my property on board his vessel, was to compel me to “walk the
plank,”[8] and by that means secure the latter to himself. Although I
was disposed to doubt the asseverations of these men, who I well knew
bore me no good will, yet Adólee confirmed their testimony; besides
which I had myself heard of the existence of a pirate in the
neighbourhood some weeks before; and the dubious appearance of Don Pedro
and his bearded crew, certainly tended to strengthen instead of
dissipating a suspicion that the pirate and the Captain were one and the
same individual. Agreeably to promise, Don Pedro paid me a visit on the
following Monday, to ascertain how long it would be before I should be
ready to embark; but I frankly acquainted him with my change of
resolution, and my reasons for adopting that alteration in my
intentions; on hearing which he appeared thunderstruck, and, instead of
attempting to clear his character of the aspersion cast upon it,
contented himself with calling his countrymen, the Portuguese, by a
variety of hard names. Rising abruptly a few minutes afterwards, he bade
me a hasty adieu, and I never saw or heard any thing more of the
piratical captain, Don Pedro.
I turned my thoughts with greater warmth than ever to my native country,
after swallowing the fetish; but so effectually had the rascally slave
merchants performed the base part they had laid down for themselves,
that although I repeatedly offered a tempting reward, no one was found
bold enough to brave their resentment by proceeding in a canoe to Cape
Coast Castle, and informing my countrymen that an Englishman was at
Badagry. The Portuguese not only shut the portal of hope in that
direction, but, when they found their malicious designs so completely
counteracted, actually threatened to take my life in the hearing of
Adólee, who, on acquainting me with the circumstance, said, that
although I bore a charmed existence as far as regarded my dealing with
black people, that virtue did not extend to persons of the same hue and
religion as myself; and he therefore strongly advised me never to leave
my dwelling unarmed, for that the Portuguese would assuredly embrace the
first opportunity of carrying their menace into effect. The intensity of
my misfortunes had not entirely deadened the principle of self-
preservation that resided within my bosom, particularly when so near my
escape from all; and the information which the king gratuitously
imparted to me, gave me considerable uneasiness, and filled me with
groundless suspicions. Damocles was not more unhappy on beholding the
sword suspended over his head by a single hair in the palace of
Dionysius, than was I whilst I remained at Badagry. All was apprehension
and anxiety on my part; and as if positive calamities had not been
enough to afflict and sadden me, imaginary dangers crossed my path, and
lent their aid to render my days superlatively miserable. Obliged to
take numberless precautions for the safety of my person, I was a prey to
fear and unceasing inquietude, and was a stranger to a moment’s ease.
I was met in the streets one day by a Portuguese, whom I considered more
friendly-disposed towards me than his vicious coadjutors; and after
chatting a few minutes, he invited me to go along with him to his
habitation. On entering it, I found the whole of his countrymen
assembled, drinking grog; and all hands appeared to be obstreperously
merry. A glass of spirit was immediately poured out for my acceptance,
which they urgently pressed me to drink; and on my refusal, I observed
them laying their heads together, and conversing earnestly in whispers,
pointing every now and then to the dirks stuck in their belts. My
suspicions, ever alive, immediately caught the alarm at these
significant proceedings; and looking wistfully round, I attempted in
vain to steal unobserved from the society of my disagreeable companions.
Seeing, therefore, no other resource, I told the Portuguese, in as bold
a tone as I could command, that my presence being required at home, it
was absolutely necessary that I should immediately quit their _social_
circle and repair thither. They all arose on my making this declaration;
and I saw their right hands inclining instinctively towards their belts.
Following their example, I laid my left hand on the hilt of a dagger
concealed in my bosom, and with the other grasped a loaded pistol that
was appended to my waist. In this manner, we eyeing each other with
mutual distrust, I retreated backwards out of the apartment; and felt
the burden that had oppressed me suddenly relieved, on being again at
liberty.
I mention this little incident simply to give an idea how greatly my
mind was harassed by a host of vexatious circumstances combined, which,
taken singly, would only serve as matter for pleasant raillery. But whom
had I to make merry with at Badagry? I looked around me in vain for a
single being to share my confidence there; and my wandering mind, flung
back upon its own resources, encouraged only perplexing doubts, vague
suspicious, and saddening reflections to arise within me, and caused me
to misconstrue every word and deed of both friends and enemies; in fact
it was utterly impossible to prevent such unpleasant sensations having
considerable influence over all my thoughts and actions.