That was only the beginning of misunderstanding; twice again during the

day we were placed in the same uncomfortable position, and a man kneeling

behind me was shot in the _back_ of his thigh. Once also the Sikhs made

a determined attack on the men with me as we were trying to outflank the

Malays, and in spite of our shouts only desisted when almost within

touch of us. It is true, of course, that the cover was so dense they

could not see us until the last moment. They were so dispirited by this

waste of effort, that they incontinently left the place and went straight

home in spite of all Plunket’s attempts to stop them. That was in no

sense his fault, for they were not his men, and he had never seen them

before the previous evening. The Penang police had retired _en masse_ at

an even earlier hour, and explained afterwards, with much force, that it

was not for this kind of work that they had engaged.

The enemy’s stockade was a long rampart impenetrable to bullets; it was

faced by a deep and wide ditch cut at right angles to the river, with one

end on the bank and the other in high jungle. The work was backed by a

thick plantation of bananas, affording perfect cover, and those defending

it were commanded by the Maharaja Lela in person, and his father-in-law

Pandak Indut, foremost of Mr. Birch’s murderers.

I am not now concerned with the details of the attack, it is sufficient

to say that it did not take long to prove how serious a mistake had been

made in leaving the howitzers behind. The rockets, an old pattern, were

ineffective, and as they all went over the top of the stockade were

greeted by the jeers of the enemy. We were close enough to hear even what

they said in the intervals between the firing. Experience is usually

costly, and what we learnt on the 7th enabled us, a week later, to carry

this and a succession of other stockades without the loss of a man.

About 1 P.M. (our force being then reduced to the officers, the men of

the 10th, bluejackets, and Malay scouts) Captain Innes gave the order to

charge the stockade. That was done, but without guns to clear the way it

was a hopeless task. We could not get across the ditch in the face of

an unseen, protected enemy, while we were entirely at their mercy. We

had to retire with the loss of Captain Innes killed, both the officers

of the 10th (Lieutenants Booth and Elliott) severely wounded, and other

casualties. If men with weapons of precision and the knowledge to handle

them had held the work, none of our party ought to have escaped. But with

Malays you can take liberties; their weapons take some time to load, but

they are deadly enough at a few yards distance if the men who hold them

would not fire at the tree-tops. The Malay’s idea is to loose off his

piece as often as he can, it makes a noise and that puts heart into the

man who fires, fear into the enemy.

Though we had gained nothing by rushing the place, the enemy did not

like that style of attack and retired, only we did not know it then. We

were engaged in counting the cost, picking up the wounded and organising

an orderly retreat, for it was late, we had some miles to go, and

we expected the Malays would leave their shelter and come after us.

Personally I did not know Captain Innes had been killed, I was in the

centre and he was on the extreme right. My party was hampered by having

to carry a wounded man, and when we got back to the middle of the field

where Abbott and Plunket were waiting, Innes and the others had already

been taken away. We had no surgeon, no stretchers, and the return journey

was one that is not pleasant to recall.

We reached our boats at 3 P.M., and the Residency a quarter of an hour

later.

For some time I was very busy trying to attend to the wounded, but then

my Malay friends asked me for a boat, as they said they must go and

fetch Nakodah Orlong’s body, and see what had become of Alang. A British

soldier was also missing. I gave the boat and they started.

About 8 P.M. they returned with Alang and the body of his chief; they had

met the lad swimming down the river with his master’s body.

When Nakodah Orlong fell, and the rest of us got away behind the great

tree, this boy stayed by the dead man, and as he was right in the line of

the thickest cross-fire, Alang pulled the body as close to the bank as

he could, and there remained from morning till evening, making no sign,

but simply declining to abandon the corpse. A man even came out from the

stockade and attacked him with a _kris_, wounding him on the hand, but

Alang beat him off. After the final charge, when our people passed close

by him, it was he who saw the Malays retire, and he allowed us all to go

away and leave him without giving any indication of his whereabouts.

Then, the coast being clear, unable to carry the body so great a

distance, he dragged it into the river and was swimming down stream with

it when the boat met him.

I went down to the boat to see Nakodah Orlong; he looked just as I had

seen him last, except that his hair and clothes were drenched with water

and there was a great hole in the centre of his forehead, marking, no

doubt, the track of an iron bullet from a swivel-gun. Of that, however,

he could never have been conscious, nor yet of the devotion of the man

whose life had been in extremest peril throughout a long day to guard

his chief’s dead body, without thought of gain or praise, only determined

that none but loving hands should be laid upon the voiceless, pulseless

clay he once called master.

Given a glorious sunny day and a good cause, the idea of ending existence

suddenly and painlessly in the pride of life and in face of the foe has

its attractions, and robs the inevitable of its sting.

But who can hope that after his death there will be one other being whose

love is great enough to offer his own life a willing sacrifice to guard

the thing that was to-day a friend and to-morrow will be corruption?

XXII

EVENING

Phœbus loosens all his golden hair

Right down the sky

ERIC MACKAY

The tale of these little lives is told. If I have failed to bring you

close to the Malay, so that you could see into his heart, understand

something of his life, and perhaps even sympathise with the motives that

will lead him to acts of high courage and self-sacrifice, then the fault

is mine.

The glory of the Eastern morning, the freshness and the fragrance of the

forest, the sultry heat of these plains and slopes of eternal green on

which the moisture-charged clouds unceasingly pour fatness—these are the

home of the Malay, the background against which he stands.

Come, we have done with it all; let us leave the plain, seething in the

heat of early afternoon, and ride up this mountain path, through all the

wealth and the magnificence of tropical jungle, and look down on the

land for the last time.

Our callous eyes—surfeited with years of gazing on brilliant colours,

great stretches of sea and forest, huge trees, a bewildering luxury of

foliage, beasts measured by the elephant and rhinoceros, birds by the

argus pheasant and the peacock—are blind to the infinite beauty of our

surroundings. This path, by which we slowly rise to cooler altitudes

and a new flora, would excite in the stranger feelings of wonder and

rapturous delight.

The road itself is cut through soil of a deep shade of _terra cotta_,

the colour all the more vivid by reason of the hues of green by which

it is environed. The sunlight strikes in rays of brilliant light across

this path, falling on red soil, granite boulder and massive tree-trunk,

intensifying colour and deepening shadow. Here and there are seen

glimpses of the plains below, the distant sea, the peaks and valleys of

other hill ranges, and the ear constantly catches the delightful sound

of falling water, the voices of numerous streams dashing down the steep

mountain sides in cascades of sparkling foam.

The path twists and winds, often by sharp zigzags, up the face of the

hill, across a narrow saddle and then by an even steeper ascent, till at

last we gain the summit of the mountain.

Stand here. The limit of vision is wide; you will scarce find a grander

spectacle in this Peninsula. We are nearly 5,000 feet above the sea,

and from north to south the eye travels over a distance not far short

of two hundred miles. Eastward, those distant hills are fully a hundred

miles away, and soon on the western horizon the sun will meet the sea in

a blaze of glory, as though kindling at the touch of loving arms long

waiting for his coming.

That faint blue peak in the north, hazy and indistinct, is Gûnong Jerai

in Kĕdah, and the island to the westward, which smiles through a golden

veil, is Penang. A grey streak of water shot with gleams of sunlight

divides it from the mainland, and the forty miles of country thence to

the foot of this hill, and far south again to those blue islets off the

Dinding coast, lie flat and fertile, a feast for the eyes. Vivid green

patches mark thousands of acres of sugar-cane and rice-field, but the

general effect is an unbroken expanse of dark jungle, mostly mangrove,

for all this land from hill-base to sea-shore is of comparatively

recent formation, the erosion from the hills carried down seawards and

covered with a wealth of foliage ever renewed by the excessive heat and

excessive moisture of this forcing tropical climate. No rocks, no bare

hills, no arid plains, everything covered with vegetation: new graves

look old in a month, the buildings of a year, for all their seeming,

might have stood for half a century.

Only at our feet does the hand of man make any mark on the landscape.

There, amid trees and gardens, nestle the red roofs of Taiping. You might

cover the place with a tablecloth for all its many inhabitants, its long

wide streets, open spaces, and public buildings.

And those pools of water all around the town, what are those?

They are abandoned tin-mines, alluvial workings from which the ore has

been removed, and water mercifully covers, in part, this desolation of

gaping holes and upturned sand.

The shore, due west and distant some twenty miles from the foot of the

range on which we stand, is deeply indented by three great bays. They

are the mouths of three rivers, short, shallow and insignificant in

themselves; it is difficult to understand why they should make such an

imposing entry on the sea. A mile or two inland from the coast the eye

is caught by twenty little lakes, on which the sun loves to linger,

burnishing them to gold when the setting in which these jewels lie has

turned to purple. They are fragments of estuaries, deep waveless lagoons

winding through the mangroves, and showing to the distant spectator only

broken reaches, glimpses of bay and headland.

The shore-line is a ribbon of glistening light, bordering the wide

expanse of forest trees, whose roots stand deep in water when the tide is

high. The mangrove cannot live beyond the reach of the brine from which

it seems to draw the sap of life, and these mud flats, in their gradual

accretion, are as yet scarcely above the level of the sea.

Turning to the north-east, a deep valley lies beneath us, the source of a

long river, the Kurau. Miles and miles beyond rise range after range of

lofty mountains, Biong and Inas and Bintang, running into the heart of

the Peninsula. Further eastward is the country near the sources of the

Perak River, and across the narrow valley, through which its upper waters

dance in a succession of rapids, may be discerned peaks of the main range

which look down on the China Sea.

Now we are facing the south-east and the valley of the Perak River. The

ridge on which we stand divides it from the Province of Larut, and surely

there are few fairer sights in the East than this same valley through

which the river, plainly visible twenty miles away, winds in a silver

streak. On the right stands Gûnong Bubu, the isolated mass terminating

in a needle-like point nearly 6000 feet high. The spurs of this mountain

spread out in every direction, north to the Pass from Larut into the

Perak Valley, east to the Perak River, and southwards nearly to the

coast. In the south-east, across the Perak River, rise five or six ranges

of hills of ever-increasing height. Over the first range can be seen the

valley of the Kinta, with its many fantastic limestone cliffs standing

clearly out; then follow Chabang, Korbu, and finally the mountains

dividing Perak from Păhang. Those hills fading out of sight in the

far-away south are near the borders of Perak and Selangor.

As we turn our faces back to the setting sun, the great disc, now grown

a deep crimson, is sinking through a bank of clouds into a sea of flame.

The waters beyond the influence of the sun’s light are a brilliant

sapphire, a reflection of the sky above. There is only one long, low bank

of cloud, and that is on the horizon.

A moment later and the sun itself has gone, but from the spot where it

disappeared is radiating a lurid glow which kindles the clouds into fire

and shoots rays of gold over Penang in the north and the Dinding Islands

in the south, seventy miles apart. This golden light spreads for a space

upward through the bank of clouds, till, paling into a belt of grey that

again deepens into blue, and ever gaining in intensity, it rises to the

zenith and fills the empyrean.

Meanwhile the darkness which seemed to be settling over the distant

eastern ranges is gradually suffused with soft tints of _rose dorée_,

transfiguring peak after peak and clearly defining every ridge and

valley. This aftermath of day, wherein the sun returns to kiss the hills

with one last lingering caress, fills the whole atmosphere with a rosy

effulgence, then fades reluctantly away. ’Twixt western sea and eastern

hill lies that great sea-indented plain over which night settles slowly

but surely, while still the sky and hills are vivid with colour. But even

the plain assumes its night garb with no less grace and beauty. A faint

mist has risen from swamp and river, and, spreading itself over the land,

takes soft hues of opal and heliotrope deepening into purple, while only

the pools and river-reaches shine out, like scraps of mirror stealing

borrowed glory from the sky.

Soon this light wanes; purple turns to grey, the colours fade from sky

and sea, only the shore-line keeps its sheen. Then this too dies, and

great white clouds, coming from out the mines and marshes like a troop

of giant spectres risen in their grave-clothes, stalk slowly round the

foothills of the mountain, through the Pass into the valley of the Perak

River.

Here, at this elevation, the night is not quite yet.

Close around us still the jungle, but the trees are dwarfed, the boughs

are covered with moss and lichen, orchids and ferns flourish in the

forks, gorgeously blossomed creepers twine round the branches and hang

from tree to tree. The air is full of the scent of the magnolia, the

moss-carpeted ground is gay with a myriad flowers, some brilliantly

plumaged songless birds flit silently between the trees, and a great bat

sails aimlessly across the waning light. The shrill scream of the cicada

is but faintly heard far down the height, and night comes, like a closing

hand grasping in resistless darkness all things visible. The only sound

to break the silence is the fitful and plaintive croak of a wood-frog.

If night treads closely on the heels of day, there is no need for

regret. The darkness is but for a moment, and over the eastern peaks

spreads a silvery sheen, herald of that great orb of splendour which,

rising rapidly, clears the mountain and sheds a flood of wonderful,

indescribable, mellow radiance over forest, plain, and sea, softening

what is crude, pointing with brilliance the most striking features,

and casting into a fathomless shadow the dark valleys of the western

slopes. There is nothing cold about this Eastern moon. Seen, half-risen,

against the dark foliage of the mountain, it glitters like molten silver,

dazzling the eyes, and as it soars serenely upward seems the very

perfection of beauty, light, and purity.

Strange that the delight and glory of mankind since ever the earth was

peopled, the emblem of unattainable longing, should be only a gigantic

cinder.

FOOTNOTES

[1] The attitude is that obtained by transferring the body directly from

a kneeling to a sitting position.

[2] “The Heavenly Twins,” book iii., chap. iii.

[3] The _Sârong_ is the Malay national garment, a sort of skirt, usually

in tartan, worn by men and women alike.

NOTE ON THE COVER DESIGN

_The colours used on the cover of this book are those recognised as

“Royal” colours in one or other of the Malay States. Throughout the

Peninsula yellow is the special colour worn or used by those of Raja

birth. By the ancient Malay sumptuary laws the lower classes were not

allowed to wear yellow garments, nor to use this colour in the decoration

of furniture of their houses. These laws are no longer rigidly observed,

but in most Malay States the use of yellow fabrics is confined to the

Raja class._

_It is a universal practice to put letters addressed to Malay rulers

(when they are of Raja birth) into covers of yellow cotton cloth or

yellow satin, while those addressed to Rajas who have no official

position, or to chiefs of importance but not of Raja birth, are stitched

into covers of white cotton._

_In some of the States the royal flag is yellow, in others it is white or

black, while in several of the more important States of Sumatra (as for

instance in Acheen), black garments are the special privilege of the Raja

class._

_In Perak the three highest native authorities in the State, the Sultan,

his heir (styled Raja Muda), and his Wazîr (the Raja Bĕndahâra), fly

flags of white, yellow, and black respectively, and these three colours

united have, for the last twenty years, been adopted as the Perak State

flag._

_The three daggers on the cover are good types of the Malay “kris,” the

favourite national weapon. The originals of these particular specimens

are in the Perak museum and were photographed for this design._

_F. A. S._

_Xmas day, 1895._

Malay sketches · 第 13 / 13 段