The sizes given in the illustration on page 325 are typical, but it is
expected that in this and other problems, dimensions will be varied to
suit conditions. When the size has been determined the leather should
be cut a little longer and wider than the final dimensions are to be,
to allow for attaching the belt pin or buckle. The strip of leather
should be thoroughly soaked in _cold water_ and then rolled in dry
cloth until the leather is dry enough for tooling. It is essential
that there should be absolute uniformity of moisture. If on applying
the tool, water follows pressure, the leather is still too wet. If it
should get too dry to retain the mark of the tool it may be sponged on
the back. There is danger of water stains, however, if the entire back
is not wet.
[Illustration: Two belt designs]
_The Design._--The illustration shows two treatments. An interlaced
pattern is shown in A which concentrates the interest at the ends and
in the middle of the back. The pattern shown is tooled solid and the
background is left untooled. If the pattern be tooled in outline it is
well to shade these outlines out into the background in order to give
relief to the interlaced bands.
Modelled natural forms are shown in B. In this the background is tooled
down, but is heaviest at the ends or in the spaces against the raised
forms. This gives the background a richer appearance than it has when
tooled absolutely flat. Both patterns here shown are straight with
parallel sides. Other shapes are possible--for example, those wider in
the middle and tapering toward the ends.
When a satisfactory design has been worked out and drawn it is
transferred to thin bond paper. The greatest care should be taken not
to have any pencil marks on the back of this paper, for they leave a
dirty gray stain on the leather which is difficult to remove. It may
be added here that whenever it is desired to mark the leather for any
purpose a tool should be used, not a pencil.
_The Process._--As soon as the leather has dried just enough to retain
the marks, the pattern should be placed upon it, pencilled side up,
allowance being made for trimming to the desired width. The paper may
be held in position by thumb tacks, which must not, however, pass
through the leather inside the part that is to be cut off. The pattern
may now be traced through the paper, over the lines of the drawing,
with the round pointed tool. Care will have to be exercised to make
sure that the pattern is completely transferred to the leather. When
this is accomplished the pattern should be removed and the lines,
which will be found somewhat dimly traced on the leather, should be
immediately deepened by going over them with the same tool.
[Illustration: Method of using the broad tool]
The next step is to tool down the design; and in doing this the work
should be turned under the tool rather than the tool itself on the
work, in order that the pressure of the tool may be applied at the edge
of the pattern farthest from the hand. This not only insures a correct
and convenient position of the tool, but allows a perfect view of the
work. In this part of the process the broad tool should be used, moved
sidewise, as shown by the direction of the arrow in the accompanying
cut. In working up into corners the narrow tool may be used if
necessary. The movement may be described as "ironing the leather down."
The surface should not be roughed up or cut up into "shoulders." It
is a process requiring time. One should not try to get the full depth
with the first pressure of the tool. One should coax the surface and
add pressure with each succeeding stroke, taking care that the tool
does not scrape. It should glide; and yet, on the other hand, beginners
will perhaps need to be cautioned not to wear out the surface by feeble
scratching and patting. A firm, even gliding pressure does the work.
As the leather dries it will be seen that the tooling has given it a
dark, glossy surface. When the process is completed the belt may be
trimmed down with a firm, sure cut of the knife, using a straight edge
wherever straight lines are desired.