The dimensions called for in this design are a diameter of 10 inches
and a height of 8 inches. The wire form must therefore be made to
approximate quite closely to these dimensions. A good material for
the form is galvanized wire lath of 1/2-inch mesh. This problem will
require a piece about 8 inches wide and 34 inches long for the convex
side, and a piece about 10 inches square for the base. From the square
piece a circle 10 inches in diameter should be cut out. A strong pair
of tinners' shears will be needed for this purpose. In bending the long
piece into the cylindrical form it is well to proceed slowly in order
to produce an evenly curved surface--_i. e._, one free from angular
bends. A good way to accomplish this result is to lay the piece down on
a bench top and bend it up over a cylindrical wooden block. If nothing
better is available a rolling pin will serve this purpose. When the
bending is nearly complete, the two ends of the piece should be brought
together, lapped over about an inch, and bound together with free ends
of the strands of wire. A pair of pliers will be of great assistance.
If this part of the process has been carefully done, there will result
a cylindrical form 10 inches in diameter. The circular piece should now
be attached to one end of this form by means of the free ends of the
strands found there, bending the projecting wires over and clinching
them at convenient points on the circumference of the circular piece
where there are uncut meshes of the wire. The form is now ready for
covering with the cement.
[Illustration: A garden vase]
The first step is the mixing of the cement for what is known as the
scratch coat. This is made by mixing Portland cement with fine, clean
sand in the proportion of one part cement to two of sand. These
ingredients should be thoroughly mixed together in the dry state, and
then there should be added a small quantity of goats' hair, well picked
apart. For the problem at hand about five pounds of cement will be
needed and as much goats' hair as can be held in the hand. The whole
should be thoroughly wet down with just the right amount of water. It
is important that the mixture should not be made too soft. A scratch
coat should be given a consistency that will enable it to be easily
spread over the wire form and, at the same time, to hang well together.
When a sufficient amount of the right mixture has been obtained, it
should be spread upon the wire form by means of a small mason's trowel
or a large knife. It is well to begin at the bottom of the convex side
of the cylinder, working upward, taking no pains to make this first
coat smooth, since roughness is desirable, and paying no attention
whatever to the inside of the cylinder, excepting to see that the
cement is forced well through the meshes so that the whole mass will
be held together firmly when dry. The inside is given a smooth coat
as a part of the later finishing process. When the convex surface has
been well covered, the form should be turned bottom up and the cement
spread upon the base of the cylinder in the same way. After the wire
has been completely covered, the form, which is likely to be somewhat
distorted, should be corrected by careful manipulation till a true
cylinder has been obtained. This is allowed to stand for about five
hours until the cement has thoroughly hardened. It is then ready for
the finishing coat.
The next step in the process is to make the cement for the finishing
coat. Considerable variety is possible here, depending upon the colour
and other surface effects that are desired. In this design a light,
sparkling surface when finished is required. To produce this effect a
mixture of one part Portland cement and two parts marble dust will be
needed. This should be mixed without hair to a consistency like that
used for the scratch coat.
Before applying the finishing coat the surfaces should be thoroughly
moistened by means of a brush well filled with water. There are various
methods of applying this coat. The simplest is carefully spreading it
on with a trowel and smoothing it with the moistened hand. When the
surface has hardened sufficiently it is sometimes possible to improve
the finish by the judicious use of sand-paper or a coarse file. It is
not possible to produce perfectly even surfaces in this way; and yet
the method has the characteristic freedom of handwork in general, and
yields very satisfactory results.
[Illustration: A vase with blocked rim]
_The Decoration._--A great variety of decorative effects may be
obtained in concrete pottery and in other articles made of this
material for out-door use. In pottery these decorations may take the
form of raised figures or ornaments, of borders or designs cut in the
surface, and of inlays in colour. Whatever the form of design, the
necessary cutting for it is best made when the cement has become well
set but not very hard--_i. e._, from 6 to 10 hours after the finishing
coat is applied. A stout, sharp, pointed knife blade is all the tool
that will be required. A narrow chisel, however, may be found desirable
for deepening the cuts. The knife should be guided by means of a ruler,
which should be flexible if used on curved surfaces; and the depth
of the cut will depend somewhat upon the size of the piece. In work
similar to that described in the problem just given, a depth of 3/16
or 1/4 of an inch is sufficient. This cutting, of course can be made
after the cement has hardened, by the use of hammer and chisel; but it
will be much more difficult.
[Illustration: A square form]
_The Colours._--Colour cement for inlaid designs is made by using the
best quality of white Portland cement as a base, colouring it with dry
mineral pigments which are sold by dealers under the name of lime or
cement-proof colours. Among the pigments suitable for this purpose are
red oxide of iron, which produces a red; oxide of cobalt, which gives
a good blue; chromate of lead, which produces yellow; carbonate of
copper, which gives a good dark green; and burnt umber, which yields
a good brown. These come as dry powders and should be mixed with the
dry cement and marble dust, making a mixture of uniform colour, before
the water is applied. In order to determine the right colour it is
well to experiment with a small quantity of the various ingredients
until a satisfactory shade has been found. Then with this as a guide a
sufficiently large quantity should be mixed, in the same proportions,
to the consistency of a thick paste, and applied to the design, which
has been previously cut in the surface to be decorated. To insure
thorough adhesion of the paste to the concrete, the cutting should be
well moistened with a wet brush. A number of suggestive designs are
shown in the accompanying drawings.
_Rustic Furniture._--The lighter out-door furniture can be easily made
up in a great variety of designs. The form of rustic settles and chairs
is determined largely by the material which is available. Very useful
and ornamental effects are produced by using sticks cut from the tops
or from branches of small trees. Birch saplings, easily found in the
second growth of some wood lots, afford a good supply of material.
It is not necessary that the sticks be straight; the natural crooks
and notches are often very useful in bracing the framework. Chairs,
settles, tables, standards for flower boxes, and other articles of
furniture may be made out of this rough and unfinished material.
[Illustration: A garden screen]
_Lattice Work._--Trellises and garden screens have been made in an
almost endless variety of forms. Among the most satisfactory is the
plain lattice work in squares and rectangles. Its simplicity and
evident durability are points in its favour. Experience proves also
that vines and other plants needing support are readily adjusted
to this form of trellis. The size of the stock required in making
the right-angled lattice work depends upon the uses to be made of
it. For a garden screen the uprights need to be of 2 × 2 inch stock
and of any convenient length. End posts of 3 × 3 inch stock will be
required, to give necessary stiffness; and, if the screen be a long
one, intermediate posts of the same size should be placed at intervals
of ten or twelve feet. The horizontal pieces may be strips of 7/8-inch
stock, 2 inches wide, set their full thickness into the uprights.
Spruce furring, which lumber dealers supply in 2-inch widths, is
suitable for the small rails; but if chestnut be used for the uprights
it is well to use the same wood for the rest of the construction. The
top and bottom rails should be of heavier stock, not less than 2 by 3
inches. The best foundation is a line of concrete posts, firmly set
into the ground at intervals of 6 feet, to which the bottom rail or
the uprights are fastened by means of irons set into the cement when
the posts are formed. Two coats of dull green paint will protect the
wood and properly subordinate the lattice work to the trailing branches
which it supports.