[Illustration: A hall clock
NOTE.--The original of the hall clock was designed and made by Mr.
Egbert E. MacNary.]
_Design._--This clock was designed and built to conform to the
requirements of the space allotted to it. The lines of the case are
all straight; there are no spires or gables or fantastic curves on the
top. A hall clock is indoors, and the top should be horizontal; for all
the other lines such as tops of window casings, picture moulding, etc.,
are horizontal. If the clock stood out of doors under the stars, then
the top might be spired or pointed.
[Illustration: Construction detail of a hall clock]
The construction, as indicated in the sketches, is simple and
substantial. The long sides extend the entire height of the clock,
being firmly joined into the base and head. The works are supported
between these sides. The wood is 3/4-inch quartered oak, hand dressed,
and stained a warm brown. The dial, hinges, catches, pendulum, and
weight are of brass.
_Cutting Glass with a Wheel Cutter._--The long door has a panel of
transparent leaded glass. This leaded glass work is a most fascinating
process. The lead strips required for it were purchased of a dealer in
lead specialties. Stained glass window concerns are usually willing
to sell this lead. A full-size drawing was made of the design for
the glass panel and the glass cut in pieces to match the pattern. A
ten-cent wheel glass cutter was used. One caution, kept in mind, will
enable one to use a wheel cutter of this kind without injuring it. _It
should never be used twice in the same cut._ One stroke of a few inches
over a cut previously made will ruin the wheel; but if the wheel is
not abused by tracing over a cut, it will last a long time. The glass
should be laid on a level table and the cutter used with a firm hand,
making a continuous cut against a straight edge.
_Soldering._--The long lines of the design are in one piece; and
there is a strip around the entire outside edge. To solder the pieces
together, the glass and lead strips are laid in position on a board,
and brads (about 1 inch long) are driven part way into the board close
against the outside strips, so as to hold the pieces in position.
A small bead of soldering paste is placed on each joint. A small
soldering "iron" (which is really copper) and wire solder are used. The
copper may be "tinned" by filing the point bright, heating it, dipping
it in the soldering paste, and then quickly touching it to the solder
wire. The point will become coated with the solder, or, as we say,
"tinned." The iron will need frequent heating. A quick, light touch of
the iron and solder wire to the joints will give the best result.
[Illustration: Method of holding glass and lead strips for soldering]
The two rings in the brass dial were "raised" by driving the brass
into a groove in a piece of oak with a hard wood wedge. The piece of
oak was revolved around the dial by means of a nail driven through the
centre of the dial into the oak piece. When a short arc of the ring had
been raised, the grooved piece was swung around about 1 inch and the
groove continued.
[Illustration: Method of raising the dial rings]
The length of the pendulum depends upon the number of teeth in the
escape wheel. It was necessary in the case of this clock to take out
the escape wheel, which had 32 teeth, and substitute one of 22 teeth to
accommodate the length of pendulum desired.
[Illustration: Dimensioned dial piece of clock before edges are turned]