_The Design._--This is to be an upright bookcase, with five shelves
and an overhanging top. Some variety of surface is afforded by the
arrangement of the sash, as indicated in the drawing. The shelves are
made to be adjustable, and not fixed as in other problems.
_Materials and Tools._--The stock required for one bookcase of this
pattern is as follows: two end pieces 7/8 × 11-1/2 × 48-1/2 inches; for
the top and bottom, two pieces 7/8 × 12 × 40 inches; four shelves 7/8
× 11 × 40 inches; for the sides of the doors, four pieces 7/8 × 2 × 45
inches; for the top and bottom rails of the doors, four pieces 7/8 ×
2-1/2 × 18 inches; for the middle rail, one piece 7/8 × 2 × 18 inches;
for the sash, one piece 7/8 × 1/2 inch × 6 feet; for the back, enough
1/2 inch stock to cover the space 38 × 46 inches. In addition to this
there will be required four hinges, two catches, a lock, and glass for
the sash as dimensioned in the drawing. It is not necessary, however,
to cut the small lights. One large pane of glass may be set in the full
width of the door so that the small sash divisions may be apparent
rather than real.
[Illustration: Bookcase with glazed doors]
The tools for this problem are the same as those used in previous
problems with the addition of a 1/4-inch bit and 1/4-inch chisel, and a
rabbet plane, or a universal plane for cutting out the rabbet for the
glass.
[Illustration: Details and dimensions for bookcase]
It is not necessary to give directions for the treatment of the
stock, since it is practically the same as that employed in preceding
problems. The details for cutting dimensions are given in the
accompanying drawings. It would be well for the young woodworker to
study these carefully and make out a working plan of procedure similar
to that which has been outlined in other problems.
_Construction._--The first thing to do is to erect the bookcase--_i.e._,
to cut the sides, the top, the bottom, and the back pieces to proper
form and dimensions, bring them into position, and fasten them. It will
be noticed that the sides and top are rabbeted out, as indicated in one
of the small drawings, so that the edge of the back will not show when
it is nailed in position. The bottom shelf is also made narrow enough
to allow the back boards to be brought down over it and nailed to the
edge.
[Illustration: Method of concealing ends of back boards]
After the case is erected the doors should be laid out according to
the drawing for mortises and tenons, and the inside edges rabbeted to
give an inset for the glass. If it is decided to use one large light
at the top of the door instead of six small ones, the sash effect for
this light will have to be made of pieces thin enough to allow this
arrangement. When the doors are ready for setting the glass it may
be held in place by small 1/4 round strips, bradded in behind it.
Great care should, of course, be exercised in gluing up the doors to
avoid strains which might give them such a twist that they could not
be fitted to the case. Careful fitting of all the mortises and tenons
and the usual assembling of the parts of each door before gluing is
attempted is a wise precaution. It will also be wise to allow a little
stock for trimming off, both on the sides and on the ends, when the
doors are finally fitted in.