_The Design._--This problem calls for an attractive article of
furniture which should also be useful as a receptacle for magazines and
current newspapers. An enclosed portion between two of the shelves is
desired to conceal from view and preserve for a time the more valuable
papers, parts of magazines, or clippings, as may be found convenient.
The perspective sketch on this same page shows how these simple
requirements are met. The overhanging top adds character and strength
to what might otherwise seem too light for the load it is intended to
carry.
[Illustration: A magazine stand]
_Materials and Tools._--Oak is selected as a suitable wood because of
its strength and durability; for this stand is likely to be in almost
constant use. A light wood, delicately finished, would soon show wear.
The stock list, according to the drawing, may be itemized as follows:
4 corner posts 1-3/4 × 1-3/4 × 36 inches; 4 upright slats 5/8 × 1 ×
34 inches; four shelves 7/8 × 10-1/2 × 17 inches; one piece for the
top 7/8 × 14 × 21 inches; 2 top rails 1 × 1-3/4 × 12 inches; 1 piece
for the door 7/8 × 8 × 15-1/2 inches for the ends and the back of the
closet 1 piece 5/8 × 8 × 36 inches; 1 pair 1-1/4-inch brass butts with
screws for the hinges, and one brass knob or catch.
The tools needed are a jointer, a block plane, a smoothing plane, steel
square, try square, knife gauge, fine cross cut saw, 1/2-inch bit and
bit stock, key-hole saw, 1/2-inch chisel, mallet, nail set, hammer,
screw-driver, and steel scraper.
The principal operations are as follows: Planing to size; scraping and
sand-papering stock; squaring ends and smoothing them to the required
length; laying out gains at corner posts; making mortises for top
rails; making the rails; assembling the main parts; fitting ends and
sides of the closets; hanging the door and putting on the fixtures.
[Illustration: Details and dimensions for magazine stand]
_The Construction._--Smoothing with the plane and scraping are very
important and they should be completed before any sand-papering is done
because particles of sand (silica), adhering to the wood, will dull
the steel tools. All three operations are needed to remove the marks
of the machine tools of the factory, in order to give a good finish in
the end. The scraper follows the plane, removing the unevenness which
the latter leaves on board surfaces. Sand-papering gives the finishing
touches.
[Illustration: Method of mortising]
After the stock is well smoothed, the top and the shelves should be
squared off, cut to length, and block planed. The posts should then be
cut and accurately trimmed to dimensions. They may be marked with a
knife line for the gains into which the corners of the shelves are to
be fastened. Since the posts are perfectly square, no attention will
have to be given to their exact location in marking or cutting the
gains; but when the mortising for the rails is laid out, care must be
exercised to mark them so that the mortises will come on the proper
faces for assembling. In mortising for the top rail it is well not to
work up to the end of the post but to cut back, say 3/4 of an inch, as
shown in one of the details. The rails may now be laid off and the
tenons cut and fitted. It is exactly 8-1/2 inches between the shoulders
of the rails. Since the shelves are 10-1/2 inches wide, one inch is
thus left on each side to be gained into the posts.
The parts are now ready for the first assembling. To do this it is
convenient to have a clear bench top on which the posts may be laid on
one side, face down. The rails and shelves may then be slipped into
place, the other two posts placed on top, and the whole clamped firmly
together. This is the preliminary assembling for the purpose of testing
the accuracy of the work. If it be found all right, it should be taken
apart again, and, after glue has been applied to the tenons and to
the ends of the shelves, the parts should be quickly re-assembled
and clamped up as before, with the angles kept true. Before the glue
hardens the shelves should be nailed into the posts, as indicated in
the drawing. In this case it is the nail that is the main stay. The
glue is accessory, adding much to the stiffness of the construction.
[Illustration: Method of fastening shelf]
The top may now be set on and fastened by screws or by brads driven
through into the posts and well set so that they may be concealed
by putty, coloured to match the stain used. The end slats should be
fastened on in the same way. The back and ends of the closet are next
cut to size and bradded in. The door is then fitted and, to break the
surface a little, an ornamental design is cut in the centre. Still
further relief is given by setting in the door 1/4 of an inch from the
edge of the shelf and ends of the closet. The door is now hung on brass
hinges, the stop and catch added, and the stand is ready for staining
and finishing.
[Illustration: Method of fastening posts to the top]