Arrival at Mozambique—Interview with the
Governor-general—Saluting the Consular Flag—Description of the
Consul’s House on the Mainland—Portuguese Rosa—Cruelty of the
Portuguese Towards their Slaves—“Flog until he will Require no
More”—Irrigation and Native Labour.
On the 18th of July, 1857, H.M.S. “Hermes” arrived at Mozambique; the
harbour master paid his visit; the Portuguese flag on the Fort was
saluted with twenty-one guns; and the Governor-general’s _aide-de-camp_,
a nephew of the Sa de Bandeira, came on board to inform me that His
Excellency and his lady would receive myself and my lady at eleven
o’clock the next day.
In order to be punctual, shortly before the appointed hour, Captain
Gordon, Mrs. M’Leod, and myself, accompanied by Mr. Soares, who had
kindly consented to act as interpreter, left the side of the “Hermes” in
Captain Gordon’s gig. As soon as the boat was clear off the ship’s guns,
the “Hermes” fired a consular salute, which was immediately taken up by
Fort San Sebastian.
We landed on the handsome and substantially-built wharf, which will be
referred to when describing the city of Mozambique, on which a large
number of negroes were collected, and a few Portuguese.
In waiting, there was a description of palanquin, borne by four negroes,
which the Governor-general had, with marked attention, sent “for the use
of the English Señhora, to screen her from the gaze of the rude blacks.”
Thanks were returned for the courteous offer, but my wife, preferring to
walk with her husband, the palanquin was not put in requisition. While
walking along the pier, on our way to the palace, the scabbard came off
my sword, without being noticed by me, and the first intimation I had
of the accident was on its being presented to me, in a very graceful
manner, by a young slave. A trifle, which is not worth mentioning, but
which the slave-dealers of Mozambique spoke of as an omen of what the
British consul was going to do, and is simply alluded to as showing how
the merest trifle is seized upon by these degraded men with superstitious
dread.
At the inner end of the pier, on the right hand side, is a large square
building, coloured pink, having a sentinel on guard in front of it: this
is the Mozambique Custom-house, and from the thickness of the walls it is
the coolest place in the whole town.
Passing the Custom-house, we approached the Palace, which was coloured on
the outside partly white and partly pink, giving to it a very pleasing
appearance, and entered by an archway which led us to a court-yard in
the centre of the Palace, whence the entrance to the public rooms was
approached by a double flight of steps, on ascending which we were
received by the _aides-de-camp_, ushered into the reception-room, and
requested to be seated.
In about five minutes’ time, a tall, thin, nervous-looking man, with
intelligence stamped upon his brow, was ushered into the room by
the _aides-de-camp_—this was Vasco Guedes e Carvel-Ihos de Menezes,
Governor-general of Mozambique. We had evidently been too punctual;
and His Excellency’s anxiety not to keep us waiting, together with his
half-finished toilet, added much to the natural nervousness of his
manner. He was accompanied by a gentleman, whose soft, cat-like motion,
clean shaved face, white linen, neatly fitted garments, scrupulously
clean hands, dark piercing eyes, and white teeth, so large and so even—so
fully shown when he smiled—the whole completed by a voice whose tone
was melody, spoke at once the polished gentleman and the self-possessed
Jesuit. This gentleman was His Excellency’s secretary.
Having presented the Exequatur of Don Pedro the Fifth, by the Grace of
God, King of Portugal and the Algarves, on this side and the other of the
sea round Africa, Lord of Guinea, and of the Conquest, the Navigation and
Commerce of Ethiopia, Arabia, Persia, and of India, &c., it was handed to
the secretary for registration in the archives of the province, and we
began to converse.
Captain Gordon at once stated the circumstances under which he had
fired at the Portuguese schooner of war “Zambesi,” off the mouth of the
Inhambane river, and expressed his regret that in consequence of the
obstinacy of the commander of that vessel, in not heaving-to nor showing
his colours, he was obliged to have recourse to measures which might
have led to serious consequences. The Governor-general accepted the
explanation most graciously, and the secretary smiled. That smile said,
“I know all about it.” And I found afterwards that he was aware, even
then when we were speaking, although the “Zambesi” had not arrived in
harbour, that at the time the “Hermes” fired at the “Zambesi” Ex-Governor
Leotti was a passenger in her, and was on his way to the Bazarutto
Islands, after his unsuccessful attempt to usurp the government of
Inhambane, for the purpose of supplying the “Minnetonka” slaver, under
American colours, and bound for Havannah de Cuba with a cargo of slaves.
The mentioning of the “Zambesi” affair led the Governor-general to ask if
we had seen any suspicious-looking vessel on our way up the Mozambique
Channel, upon which the name of the “Minnetonka” was mentioned, and
the circumstances under which she visited Port Natal, and also that
we had been informed that her destination was Cape Corrientes, better
known as Inhambane. The Governor-general assured us that she would not
obtain one slave from Cape Delgado to Delagoa Bay; that the traffic
had entirely ceased; that the Mozambique people were entirely opposed
to the slave-trade; that they had turned their attention to legitimate
commerce; and, now that the British consul had arrived, he hoped to see
him followed by British vessels, when the marvellous commercial resources
of the province would be developed. He referred to his secretary, who
confirmed all His Excellency stated with a bland smile. Madam Guedes,
the Governor-general’s wife, now entered, and the conversation turned
to other subjects. She gave us both a most hearty welcome to her house,
though she would not add it to a climate in which she had suffered much,
and from the effects of which she appeared to be slowly recovering.
She was accompanied by her child, a girl of three years old, born at
Mozambique, who looked indeed a tender plant.
Even in this first interview, I could not but contrast the appearance
of everything at the Palace with the description given by Salt of his
reception at Mozambique, about fifty years since, as may be seen by the
following statement:—
“After dinner we retired to another apartment, where tea and coffee
were set out in a splendid service of pure gold from Seña, of excellent
workmanship, executed by the Banians resident on the island. The
Governor, when in his official dress, wears a very costly and curiously
wrought chain of the same metal, and, on state days, has two or three
black slaves in attendance, who appear almost overwhelmed by the pressure
of the golden ornaments with which they are encumbered, remnants of the
splendour once attending these viceroys of Eastern Africa.”
The gold chain of office here alluded to has been appropriated by some
predecessor of Vasco Guedes, and the golden tea and coffee service must
have shared the same fate, as the present Mozambiquers have no knowledge
of such articles having existed; while those of their slaves who are
covered have barely sufficient of the commonest material to hide their
nakedness.
Having taken leave of His Excellency and family, we walked about the
town, and were conducted to Mr. Soares’ house, where his father, the
Brigadier Candido de Costa Soares, was introduced to us.
It was arranged, at the Cape of Good Hope, that a large house in the
city of Mozambique, belonging to Mr. Soares, was to be leased to me.
But on our arrival we found that Mr. Soares’ instructions had not been
complied with in his absence, for the repairs which were to have been
made previous to his return were not even commenced. It was found quite
impossible to procure any other house on the island, even with the
assistance of the Governor-general; and, although bitterly disappointed
at this unexpected occurrence relative to a residence in the city, Mr.
Soares having assured me that we should find his house there quite
prepared, and at my disposal, I was obliged to content myself with that
gentleman’s solemn assurance that the house would be immediately put
into a state of repair, and that, as soon as that was done, one-half
of the house would become mine for twelve months. The house was a very
large one, divided into two distinct portions by a massive double stone
staircase, and I found that one half of it would have been quite large
enough for my purpose. Meanwhile it was arranged, as an earnest of Mr.
Soares’ sincerity (who appeared much mortified that his instructions had
not been complied with during his absence), that the British consular
flag should be hoisted on the flag-staff which was already erected on the
house; and that until the portion of the building required for my use was
ready for occupation, I should have the use of Mr. Soares’ house on the
mainland.
The following day was devoted to hoisting the consular flag, and opening
the British Consulate. The Union Jack was accordingly hoisted at noon,
and saluted by the Fort with twenty-one guns, which was acknowledged by a
similar salute from H.M.S.V. “Hermes.” In the evening, the captain, and
a number of the officers from the “Hermes,” together with myself, were
entertained at dinner; Mrs. M’Leod, from slight indisposition, not being
able to attend.
Next morning, at daylight, we left the “Hermes,” exchanging the kind and
unbounded hospitality shown us by Captain Gordon, R.N. for the quiet of
our own home in East Africa.
The house to which we were conducted, and in which we were to suffer so
much, was on the N.W. end of Mozambique Harbour, built on the beach, and
about a stone’s throw above high water mark.
In front of it, and looking towards the island of Mozambique, there was
an extensive sandy beach, which, at low water, in full and change of the
tides, was uncovered for the space of about two and a half miles; so
that, at those periods, one could walk over the sands to within about
half a mile of the island. At other times, the sand-bank was more or
less, according to the state of the tide, covered with water. Along the
beach, and at high water mark, a few mangrove trees marked the unhealthy
character of the location.
The house itself was a large, square, solid-looking building, with a flat
roof. It was surrounded by a wall, some ten or twelve feet in height,
which enclosed a space covering about an acre of ground, and within
which there was a kitchen, outhouses for the slaves, and a stable having
accommodation for three horses.
The chambers on the basement were large and lofty, but were only used as
store-rooms.
On the floor above there was one large sitting or reception-room, and
three other apartments; access to which was obtained from the front
of the house by a door on the basement, leading to a massive stone
staircase; and on the rear of the house, by a double stone staircase
leading from the court-yard.
The spaces for windows of the rooms on the basement were barred by
iron wood; the door of the house was double and folding, and all the
fastenings were heavy, awkward, and cumbersome, evidently made with a
view to resist any attacks of the natives. The windows of the upper
apartments were one half glass, and the other half a wooden shutter on
hinges, which opened to admit air; while the glass part was fitted with
a similar shutter to exclude, when necessary, the intense light of that
latitude.
The reception-room was furnished with two light Indian sofas, which
looked cool and inviting; a dozen and a half chairs, of all descriptions,
collected from every quarter of the globe, each design showing that
comfort was the object sought; three tables placed conveniently in the
apartment; a few good French coloured prints on the wall; a number of
books in English, French, Portuguese, Spanish, and Italian, on a variety
of subjects—history, architecture, agriculture, mining, poetry, and
_belles-lettres_—scattered about the room, showed the attainments of
the owner. In one corner stood two barometers, one French and the other
English, while close adjoining, on the wall, hung an aneroid. In another
part of the room was seen one of Dent’s duplidescopes for finding noon
by the double reflection of the meridian sun in any latitude; by its
side a German microscope, and a French alarm clock. Exploring the next
apartment, one came across a magic lantern, Chinese puzzles carved in
ivory, and a complete apparatus for the Daguerreotype process. These all
attested to the various tastes of the owner, and it was his favourite
boast that the house contained everything; in proof of which, on visiting
the store-room below, he showed me a rusty rat-trap, an American
cotton-gin, palms and needles, copal varnish, rockets; and, in short,
anything that I named was, as if by enchantment, immediately produced.
The house, with the slaves attached to it, twenty-three in number, and
a small open carriage with one horse, were at my service, and to be
considered absolutely mine for twelve months; the rent to be agreed upon
as soon as a kitchen was built adjoining the house, so as to cook in it
in the English style; and the sum was agreed upon which the rent was not
to exceed.
Mr. Soares had breakfast prepared, and bade us welcome, saying that he
was glad to show us some return for our kindness to him “when, sick and
lonely at the Cape of Good Hope, we nursed and made him well.”
The following day our baggage was landed from the “Hermes,” and she
proceeded to sea some days afterwards.
Mr. Soares had asked me as a favour to allow a widow woman, who had
acted as overseer to the slaves in the house, to remain and take charge
of the slaves; and my wife was delighted to have some one who knew how
to manage them, and was glad to show the poor widow some kindness. But
before two days Mrs. M’Leod was obliged to speak to her for her cruel
treatment of the negroes, and begged her to be more gentle with them for
the future. In the evening, when going out for a drive, the Portuguese
woman told them to take the horse out of the carriage, and informed her
mistress that she was placed there to take care of Mr. Soares’ slaves and
property. I was obliged to tell Mr. Soares that neither as an Englishman,
nor a British consul, could I allow any slave to be treated as Portuguese
Rosa had used them in my presence; and as only one woman could command
in an Englishman’s house, the poor widow, who did not understand her
position, must go. He explained her conduct by stating that she behaved
herself in that manner on purpose to be sent to his plantation in the
country, where she would command everybody. The next day she left the
house, and great was the rejoicing of the slaves when she was gone.
When we took the house, the slaves, with the exception of one who was a
carpenter, and appeared to be a favourite with Portuguese Rosa, were,
without exception, the most miserable, broken-hearted looking negroes I
ever saw. They had the appearance of having been half-starved for a very
long period, and were covered with scars and sores, evidently the effects
of brutal treatment. One poor creature was so horrifying a sight, that
I asked Mr. Soares if it was not possible to do something to alleviate
his sufferings, when he was sent to the house of Mr. Soares’ father to
be treated by the slave doctor there. He begged me not to think his
slaves were in that condition always; and accounted for it by his absence
from Mozambique, stating that, when he returned after an absence of any
duration, he was sure to find that some of his slaves were dead, and
many of them had run away into the Makua country; which he felt certain
was caused by the cruel treatment of those whom he had left in charge of
them. He added that he rejoiced they were with me, for now there would be
an end of this, as far as those who were attached to this house of his.
I observed, on his making his appearance among them, that they clapped
their hands, as if glad at his presence; but I found no expression of
this feeling in their countenances; and I soon learned that they made
this clapping of their hands on seeing me, or my wife, or, in fact, any
one with a white face—and that it was not only their glorious privilege
to be slaves, but that they had to express their joy in this manner on
beholding their oppressors. How abject must be that domestic slavery
which degrades the image of God to such baseness!
However, we set about improving their condition gradually. Owing to the
poor food, and scanty allowance of it, which was served out to them,
their blood was very much impoverished, and their bodies were covered
with disgusting running sores; the fingers and toes of some of the
younger slaves being almost rotted off—and in this condition their
oppressors expected them to perform their daily task. The appearance
of some was really too horrible to be described. I ordered sulphur and
lard to be applied, and had to superintend the treatment myself, as
the elder ones could not be persuaded at first to assist their younger
fellow-sufferers. They were induced to bathe in the salt water morning
and evening. At first there was some difficulty about the matter, but by
dint of a little coaxing the elder ones took to it, and then there was no
difficulty with the younger ones. The allowance of food was really not
sufficient to sustain life, consisting entirely of a description of small
grain called milho. This allowance was served out about once a week; a
day more or less seemed to be a matter of indifference. The food served
out in this manner to the poor hungry negroes was of course seized upon
with avidity, and what was intended for a week’s supply seldom lasted for
more than two or three days, and on the fourth day all were crying for
food. Until the end of the week they had no chance of receiving any from
their own masters; they must, therefore, rob them, or some other person;
when found out, they were flogged. Hunger was ever goading them on to
rob; the lash was always ready, and therefore the whip was always going.
If found stealing cocoa-nuts from the trees, the custom of Mozambique
is to allow the captain or guardian of the palm trees to shoot them. No
question is asked as to how a slave comes by his death—and the body is
thrown into the sea.
The reason for giving them so little food is not that their masters
are unable to feed them, but simply that they come of a fierce race,
and it is necessary to keep them in subjection. The Portuguese are
always dreading their slaves rising upon them; and, therefore, they
exercise all their ingenuity in devising means to keep them down, and
display a refinement in cruelty which I am not aware exists in any
other slave-holding communities. Here at Mozambique, where slaves are
plentiful, and where there is no difficulty in replacing them, they are
not valued as in those places where a human being represents so many
thousand dollars, or hundred doubloons. Here a slave is only worth forty
dollars, even when the slave ships from Réunion or Cuba lie in the
harbour. If a slave is refractory, and flogging only makes him worse,
the arbitrary master, enraged at his continued disobedience, bids his
brutal overseer flog him until “he will require no more.” The master
looks on and gloats his vengeance. The slave perishes under the lash—a
few dollars will replace him. Not so where he cannot be replaced except
at considerable expense. This is one thing which peculiarly aggravates
the domestic slavery of Mozambique, viz., the facility with which
the negro is replaced. To keep them in subjection, every opportunity
is seized to destroy all sympathy with each other, and all natural
affection. The son is made to flog his mother and his sister; the father
flogs his daughters, and also the woman who bore them for him—all at
the command of their owner, who can do with them what he pleases. Women
are made to flog—and that under circumstances too revolting to be told.
If two persons of different sexes are observed growing attached to
each other, and there is springing up between them that feeling which
we would unquestionably call love, but which the proud superiority of
the Portuguese intellect denies can exist in men and women with black
skins,—those two are chosen for each other’s executioners. It is thus
that, making nature war against itself, they endeavour to create and
perpetuate an unnatural race, destitute of all affection to each other.
They war against the Omnipotent—love they cannot eradicate from the human
heart—woe to that hour when vengeance wakes to life!
Increased supplies of food were given to the slaves attached to my house;
some were supplied with nets, and sent to collect fish, which were to be
found in abundance on the beach before the house; all were kept employed.
The garden, once a neglected ruin, soon smiled; and the contented, well
fed negro laughed aloud. The orange trees, pronounced dead, returned to
life, and with their golden fruit rewarded our care. The rose trees,
which had been brought from the Brazils when the slave-trade flourished,
on our arrival looked like wild briers; but trimmed and trained by
Englishwomen, and watered by the slaves, they soon bore roses the size
of small dahlias, whose fragrance was astonishing. The barren fig-trees
were not ungrateful, and presented us with their cool, luscious fruit
every morning. The pomegranate trees dazzled us with the rich carnation
colour of their flowers, and their fruit formed an agreeable dessert. The
banana and the pine-apple improved so much in flavour, that they were not
recognized as Mozambique fruit by those names: the banana tasted more
like that of China; and the pine-apple approached the hot-house fruit of
that name. When H.M.S.V. “Cordelia” called at Mozambique, on her way to
the Kuria Muria Islands, the captain’s gig, on her return to the ship,
was filled with peas, lettuces, cabbages, and oranges from my garden,
until Captain Vernon begged me to put no more in—or else she would sink.
This was only a few months after our arrival at Mozambique: showing what
irrigation and native labour, properly directed, may do in that climate
in a short space of time.