CHAPTER VIII.

Port St. Lucia—Zulu Country—Panda—Delagoa Bay—Its

Unhealthiness; Causes Examined—Lourenço Marques—Dutch

Fort—Tembe and Iniack—British Territory—Fecundity of Boer

Females—Products—Transvaal Republic—Mineral Wealth—Future of

the Country.

After leaving the limits of the Colony of Natal, in proceeding to the

northward, the first port which attracts attention is that of Port St.

Lucia, in latitude 28° 26′ S., and longitude 32° 26′ E.

This port is admirably adapted for throwing supplies of ammunition, and

also useful commodities, into the Zulu country, from which they are

carried into the Orange Free State, and the Transvaal Republic, thereby

eluding the custom’s dues payable at the Cape of Good Hope and Natal.

A considerable trade of this description is already established by

several mercantile houses at the Cape of Good Hope; and, this fact having

become known in London and Liverpool, merchants are naturally inquiring

what articles of trade are suitable for a port where no duties whatever

are levied, and where the returns of ivory, hides, horns, and hoofs are

immediate.[1]

As the colony of the Cape of Good Hope pays annually to the Boers

5,000_l._ (five thousand pounds sterling) as a compensation for the

duties levied on commodities passing through that colony to the Orange

Free State and Transvaal Republic, it is natural to expect that the

revenue of that colony should be protected by obtaining possession of

a port at present belonging to no country, and which offers a sore

temptation to the Boers, ever on the look-out for an outlet for their

productions, without passing through and enriching a country from which

they _trecked_, in consequence of real or imagined wrongs.

From Port St. Lucia, proceeding northwards, we pass a line of coast, of

which we absolutely know nothing, until we arrive at Cape Colatto, in

latitude 26° 4′ S., and longitude 33° 1′ E.

The whole of this coast is low, and washed by the gulf stream; and is,

for the reasons already given in the previous chapter, well adapted for

the growth of cotton. Doubtless, some of the Kaffirs of Natal, seeing the

great care devoted to the production of this staple of our manufactures

in that thriving and industrious little colony, will communicate the

intelligence to their countrymen, and eventually it may be brought to

the notice of their chiefs. If Panda, the great chief of the Zulus, was

once convinced of the benefits which would arise to his people by the

cultivation of this plant, we should hear no more of bloody wars and

wholesale massacres in his dominions; for he would soon learn that the

increase of his people would be an increase of his own wealth and power.

It would be well to try the experiment by presenting Panda with

a certain number of pounds of cotton-seed, holding out some great

inducement for him to return, at the proper season, a proportionate

amount of seed-cotton, which might be easily ginned in the colony.

A trade of this sort, once established, would tend greatly to the

civilization of the whole Zulu Kaffir race, by which they would, under

their own chiefs, be turned to agricultural occupations, affording

eventually to Natal a large and immediate supply of labour for the

soil, which is all that Natal requires to become the great nucleus of

civilization in South Eastern Africa.

On Friday, the 10th of July, 1857, the “Hermes” steamed into Delagoa Bay,

known in the history of Eastern Africa as one of the most unhealthy parts

of that coast. As we propose investigating the causes of this reported

unhealthiness, it will be necessary to describe the bay, and then to

examine whether the locality or the visitors are to be most blamed for

the great fatality which has taken place amongst those who have visited

it.

The Bay of Delagoa, formerly called Formosa Bay, from the security of

the anchorage and beauty of the scenery, is a deep inlet of the Indian

Ocean, formed by the stream, known in the Atlantic as the Gulf Stream,

constantly setting to the southward along the east coast of Africa.

The abrading influence of this current has been arrested in the south

part of the bay by the firmer and loftier formation of the country,

assisted by the continual deposits brought down to their mouths by the

Mapoota and English rivers, which flow into the south side of the bay.

The current having been deflected thus from the mainland, in its easterly

set, while returning to the ocean, has formed for itself a channel, by

separating a lofty headland from the main and forming of it the island

now called Iniack.

The bay thus forms an arc, on the chord of which may be found large

shoals, and even islands, formed by the action of this great stream, and

the natural deposits of two large rivers, which discharge themselves into

the upper or north-western portion of the bay, called respectively the

Magaia or Esperito Santo, and the King George’s or Manakusi.

The anchorage of the bay lies mainly in the mouth of the English River,

which there runs due east and west, and it may, therefore, be imagined

how secure is this anchorage, land-locked from all winds, and protected

from the sea by a number of islands and shoals placed as natural

breakwaters.

Nature could not well have formed a bay more admirably adapted for the

purpose of holding communication with the interior of the adjoining

country.

To seaward, open on all sides to this bay and the Indian Ocean, forming

the southern arm of Delagoa Bay, is Iniack Island, which is 240 feet

in height, and shows no indication of a sickly climate; but, on the

contrary, has been always used by the natives of the adjoining low

country of Tembe (which forms the south side of the bay) as a sanitarium.

Inland, on the north bank of the English River, is a lofty cliff, called

Point Rubin, gradually declining into the interior to the banks of the

adjoining rivers. This would be almost as healthy a locality as the

former, although, of course, it would not have the advantage of the pure

and bracing breezes from the Indian Ocean.

The remainder of the bay may be pronounced a dead flat, extending into

the interior for many miles; and, in viewing the bay, the simplest

idea of self-preservation, which, we are told, is the first law of

nature, would at once suggest that in such a locality there were only

the two above named places for the erection of a town. To make this

matter plainer, we have only further to observe that the lowness of the

surrounding extent of country, the humid atmosphere arising from the

surface of a bay wherein the great Gulf Stream constantly circulates,

and the malaria which must naturally arise from the mouths of four

considerable rivers discharging the drainage of large tracts of country,

and, before disemboguing themselves, traversing flat districts where

their streams are sluggish and overcharged with masses of decayed and

decaying substances, must naturally lead to a state of the atmosphere,

in the bay tending to generate, with the heat of the climate, those

virulent forms of fever known under the name of marsh and putrid.

With the above description of this lovely bay, it will only be necessary

to state that the most unhealthy spot has been chosen for the erection of

a town; which will at once explain the reason of the unhealthiness of the

Portuguese settlement of Lourenço Marques.

This town derives its name from a Portuguese, who first established

the ivory trade, at this place, with the natives of the country. It

is situated on the north bank of the English River, almost at the

foot of the high red cliff which forms the south and eastern face of

Point Rubin; consequently, all the heat and glare from this cliff is

reflected on the unhappily-situated settlement from sunrise until three

o’clock in the afternoon. Between the town and the river there is a high

sand-bank, which effectually cuts off the sea-breeze. In the rear of the

town there is a swamp, or marsh, which is at once the destruction and

salvation of the settlement, for, while its pestiferous breath pollutes

the atmosphere, and causes all in its neighbourhood to breathe the

air of death, its slimy nature, depth, and treacherous bottom prevent

the onslaught of the natives, with which the Portuguese are constantly

threatened; for which reason the only two field-pieces which the garrison

possesses are pointed towards this, their best friend and worst foe.

The town consists of a miserable square of squalid-looking houses,

surrounded by huts containing the natives whom the occupants of the

ruinous-looking habitations have enslaved. This miserable place is

protected by a structure, to which is applied the name of a fort,

having a large flag-staff, displaying the flag of Portugal, and a few

honey-combed guns, which cannot be fired.

The town is filthy in every sense; even the Governor’s quarters being so

surrounded with filth and dirt of all sorts, that none but Portuguese and

Natives, acclimatized by long usage to the pestilential atmosphere of

the place, can approach it without being attacked with fits of vomiting.

It is impossible for any one to see the town of Lourenço Marques without

being struck with the idea how it is possible for human beings to live

there.

I suppose, on the Portuguese first settling in Delagoa Bay, they erected

a temporary location on the bank of the river, opposite to where their

vessels were at anchor; intending at an early date to remove to the

adjoining highland, but that those who were left behind, on their vessels

sailing to form the new settlements along the coast, were overtaken by

the effects of the malaria of the position which they had first chosen,

and that many of them must have fallen victims to this want of foresight

in the Commander of the expedition; while the survivors found themselves

too enfeebled to undertake the formation of another town in a more

healthy locality; and getting gradually acclimatized to the atmosphere of

the place, they decided upon remaining where they were.

After the above description of Lourenço Marques, the reader will not

be surprised at the unhealthiness of the place, and will seek for its

cause, not in the climate of this portion of Africa, but in the locality

chosen for this Portuguese settlement. There is a slimy mud bank between

Waterloo and Southwark Bridges on the Thames; the occupant of a hut built

on that mud bank would, in the height of our summer, be nearly as liable

to marsh or putrid fever as the inhabitants of Lourenço Marques.

When the Dutch made their appearance on the East Coast of Africa,

they built a Fort on English River, opposite to Lourenço Marques;

having only one object in view, namely, the wresting of the valuable

commerce, then established, from the Portuguese. To place themselves in

communication with the natives, and cut them off from Lourenço Marques,

their settlement was opposite to that of the Portuguese, and therefore,

was like wise unhealthy. The first Dutch Factory was destroyed by the

Natives, who were instigated to this by the Portuguese, at a time when

the Dutch were disappointed of reinforcements, and demoralized and

enfeebled by the pestilential atmosphere of the malaria district, which

circumstances somewhat compelled them to choose, in order that they might

break up the monopoly of the ivory trade enjoyed by the Portuguese.

The second Factory of the Dutch was built in the same place as the former

one; and this they abandoned on the appearance of the English in these

waters.

On the Dutch again becoming masters of the Cape of Good Hope, they

found that they could not compete with the English, whose superior

manufactures, brought by the Banyans from Bombay to Lourenço Marques,

had established a trade with which they could not interfere. That trade

has been carried on ever since, but has now dwindled down into utter

insignificance, in consequence of the difficulties thrown in the way

by the Portuguese officials abandoned to the Slave trade. They obtain

sufficient American goods for the ivory trade with the Natives; whilst,

by excluding the English, they are enabled to carry on the Slave Trade

in complicity with the neighbouring chief who may be paramount at the

time; and who, being the victor, has more prisoners to supply the odious

traffic by which alone the Portuguese Official may hope to make the means

of retiring to his own country.

The Portuguese claims to territory on the East Coast of Africa begin at

Lourenço Marques, which is the most southern point on the coast where the

Portuguese flag is permitted to fly.

Formerly, the authorities of Lourenço Marques claimed the whole of

Delagoa Bay; but the southern portion of the bay, comprehending Tembe and

its dependency, Iniack Island, having been ceded to Captain W. F. Owen,

R.N., by King Keppel, in 1823, we have been in possession of a tract of

country which affords us access to the Zulu country by way of the British

river Mapoota, while the English River gives us access into the interior,

even, it is believed (for this country is very little known), to the

Transvaal Republic.

The Boer States of the Orange Free State and Transvaal Republic have no

port, and consequently no outlet for their commerce. Their products have,

therefore, to find their way to the ocean by the harbours of the Cape

Colony, or that of Port Natal. To avoid the transit dues of import and

export, they have turned their attention to Port St. Lucia, as already

stated; but this not altogether suiting their purpose, and being on a

line of coast in close proximity to Natal, where they may expect to be

checkmated by Great Britain extending her authority to Cape Colatto, they

have turned their thoughts more directly to Delagoa Bay; which, from its

receiving four large navigable rivers, communicating with the interior

and their own States, offers every facility for extending their commerce

to the richest portion of Africa. These Boers are very prolific, many of

the women bearing upwards of twenty children. I am personally acquainted

with three such mothers; and, after a careful calculation, I am inclined

to believe that the average of the Boer families is sixteen; and, I may

almost say, never less than twelve. It may well be imagined that a people

who increase so rapidly, and with whom the south part of Africa is known

to agree remarkably, require only an outport to become a mighty nation.

While residing at the Cape of Good Hope, I was informed that the Boers

contemplated the purchase of Delagoa Bay; and I am now in a position to

state that I know, from undoubted authority, that this arrangement was

far advanced.

In the execution of what I conceived my duty to my country, I brought

this matter under the notice of Her Majesty’s late Government, recalling

the cession of Tembe and Iniack Island, and pointing out the advantages

of establishing a Factory for the purposes of trade, and also a

Lighthouse for steam-postal communication on the last named place, which,

from the salubrity of its climate and central position, would soon become

an emporium for trade. And I am glad to think that I have been thus far

successful in upholding the rights of my country and frustrating the

Portuguese intentions of selling, and those of the Boers of buying,

British Territory.

The Tembe country abounds in Orchella weeds, which were first discovered

by a British subject, not more than three years ago.

It may be recollected that, when at Natal, I stated that Mr. G. W. Duncan

handed me a letter relative to slaving transactions going on at Delagoa

Bay. During the visit of Mr. Duncan to this place, he discovered that

the Orchella weed was to be had in enormous quantities on the South,

or British, side of the bay. He persuaded the natives to collect some

for him, so as to take it down to Natal as a specimen. On his return to

Delagoa Bay, wishing to obtain a cargo of this valuable weed from the

Zulus living on the British side of the bay, he commenced operations

for that purpose; but the Portuguese Governor, Muchado, of the small

settlement of Lourenço Marques, built on the opposite side of English

River, informed him that such traffic with the natives was forbidden.

In the meanwhile, during his stay at Lourenço Marques, a large vessel

was filled up with Orchella weeds and ivory, obtained from the Zulus of

Tembe. This vessel had been sent for to Mozambique, by Governor Muchado,

when informed of the discovery made by the enterprising Englishman from

Natal.

Mr. Duncan had the mortification to see his discovery not only seized

upon by the Portuguese, but, at the same time that Governor Muchado

forbade him to trade with Tembe, he saw a vessel under the Portuguese

flag obtaining the weed which he had discovered in British territory.

Truth is stranger than fiction. What Mr. Duncan did at Delagoa Bay on a

small scale, Dr. Livingstone has done on a grand scale in the interior;

both endeavoring to make discoveries for the benefit of the natives of

Africa, and the commerce of their own much-loved country, and—mark the

sequel—both with the same results.

Dr. Livingstone has opened the Luavo mouths of the Zambesi to commerce.

These mouths were known to the Portuguese before, but they were always

reported to be impassable; the object of this being that, while the

Portuguese Officials kept our Cruisers at anchor off the Killimane

mouth of the river, the Slavers might come in and go out by the Luavo

mouths. As soon as Dr. Livingstone had pointed out that these mouths

were navigable, and proved it by entering the river by one of those

mouths, the Portuguese Government immediately decided upon establishing

Customhouses on the river. Thus are we prevented from trading with the

natives of the country, and from benefiting by the enterprise of our

countrymen.

This digression was somewhat necessary, to show how our valuable

possession of Tembe has been trifled with by the Portuguese in Delagoa

Bay.

The Orchella weed is gathered in bags, and a number of these are placed

together under a screw press (with which all vessels in this trade are

provided), and formed into bales.

As many of my readers are, doubtless, unacquainted with the properties of

this valuable weed, the following brief account of it and its habitat may

not be unacceptable:—

Dyer’s Orchella Weed.—This is one of the most valuable of the vegetable

products of Eastern Africa, and may be found, in greater or less

quantity, from the Cape of Good Hope to the Red Sea.

There are several species or varieties of this lichen; and it has been

used, from the most ancient times, for the purpose of supplying a

colouring matter.

Theophrastus, Dioscorides, and Pliny mention a plant which grew near

the ground on the rocks of Crete, and was used for dying purple; the

last named of these three ancient writers calls this plant _phycos

thalassion_; while Dioscorides says that some persons imagine that the

paint used by women was made from this plant; but he adds that it was a

root bearing this name.

The _phycos thalassion_ of the ancients has been usually assumed to be

the _Rocilla tinctoria_; and Bory de St. Vincent even thinks that the

ancients made their celebrated purple dye, brought from the isles of

Elishah, with the _R. tinctoria_, which he therefore calls _R. purpura

antiquorum_.

In the fourteenth century, a nobleman, named Ferro, or Fredrigo, of

German extraction, while travelling in the Levant, discovered that the

colour might be extracted from this plant by the action of urine: in

the Levant, this plant was called _respio_ or _respo_, and in Spain,

_orciglia_. Proceeding to Florence, where his family were settled, he

made known his discovery, and it was applied to the dyeing of wool. His

family was ennobled for this discovery, under the name of Oricellarii,

altered to Rucellai, and became greatly enriched in consequence of

the monopoly of the importation of this weed, which they had for some

generations. From the name Rucellai, the generic term Rocella is supposed

to be derived.

All species and varieties of Rocella found in commerce bear the general

appellation of Orchella weed; but they are distinguished by the name of

the country from which they are exported.

The commercial kinds of Orchella weed may be conveniently arranged in two

divisions.

1st. Orchella weeds having a cylindrical tapering thallus—_Rocella

tinctoria_.

Found in the Canary Islands; Western Islands; Cape de Verde Islands; some

parts of the coast of Barbary; South America, and the Cape of Good Hope.

2nd. Orchella weeds having a flat (plane) or compressed thallus. These

consist of _R. fuciformis_, and perhaps _R. Montagnei_.

Found in Angola (Portuguese Province on the West Coast of Africa);

Madagascar; the Portuguese Province of Mozambique, from Cape Delgado to

Delagoa Bay, on the East Coast of Africa; South America; and Pondicherry

in India.

There is certainly a third description in commerce, known as mixed

Orchella weeds, and consisting of varieties of the foregoing, mixed

irregularly.

The second division of these Orchella weeds, _R. fuciformis_, is the

more valuable, and is known in commerce, in its various forms, under the

denomination of the country, as already stated, from which it is imported.

Angola Orchella weed; _R. fuciformis_. _Thallus_ very flat, seldom

exceeding an inch and a-half, or two inches, in length; in breadth

(except at the fork or division) rarely more than one-sixth of an inch;

colour greenish, or yellowish grey. As a dye stuff, it is the most

valuable of all the Orchella weeds.

The above is Dr. Pereira’s description of the Angola Orchella weed, and

the Mozambique Orchella weed is exactly the same; the Madagascar being

smaller, but in other respects similar to the Angola and Mozambique.

Although the Portuguese have had possessions of immense territorial

extent, both on the West and East Coasts of Africa, for more than three

centuries, in regions where this weed of the most superior quality

abounds, it is only within the last twenty or thirty years that they

have brought it into the European market; and, from what I could learn

at Mozambique, it is only since the Slave Trade was partially checked in

that Province, that the Mozambique people began to export this valuable

commodity, viz., subsequent to 1850. It abounds in such quantities along

the whole of this coast, that literally fleets may be loaded with it.

As this work is written for practical purposes, I offer no apology for

inserting what may hereafter be useful in developing the Resources of

Eastern Africa.

Mode of extracting the colorific principles for transport. Dr. Stenhouse

suggests the following method:—

Cut the lichens into small pieces, macerate them, in wooden vats,

with milk of lime, and saturate the solution either with hydrochloric

or acetic acid. The gelatinous precipitate is then to be collected

on cloths, and dried by a gentle heat. In this way almost the whole

colorific matter can be easily extracted, and the dried extract

transported, at a small expense, from the most distant inland localities,

such as the Andes or Himalayas. Lime along the whole East Coast of Africa

may be made from shells and coral.

The Angola, Mozambique, and Madagascar Orchella weeds, being all of the

same variety, _R. fuciformis_, are found growing on both trees and rocks;

while in other places they are found only on trees, or on rocks.

The country surrounding the magnificent Bay of Delagoa abounds in cattle.

In the waters of the bay the sperm whale is to be found; and here

American whalers generally call, not only for the purpose of fishing the

whale, but also of obtaining some of the far famed ivory which finds

an outlet from the interior by means of this bay. The rivers abound

with hypopotami; and the natives kill them, either by means of pits,

which they dig on the banks of the rivers, or by means of large stakes

of wood attached to the branches of trees. These stakes are sometimes

pointed with the barb of a large iron arrow, or the head of an assigay;

and to make them heavy, so as to penetrate the skin of the hypopotamus,

the stakes are loaded with stones, which are attached to them. One of

the numerous creeping or climbing plants, found in abundance, are used

to suspend the stake thus prepared, while the end of the cord or plant

is led across the path where the hypopotamus is expected to pass. The

natives are aware that the animal does not lift his feet off the ground,

and therefore avail themselves of this peculiarity to make him his own

executioner. The foot of the beast coming in contact with the cord or

creeper, laid across his path, disconnects the loaded stake with its

poisoned barb; it enters the back of the hypopotamus, and his fate is

sealed.

On other occasions, the Natives in their canoes approach the hypopotamus,

and lance their poisoned arrows and assigays at the monster, while

sporting in the river. The river horses, feeling themselves wounded, dive

to the deepest holes in the river; but they are not lost to the eye of

the vigilant savage. To the arrow or lance, firmly imbedded in the body

of the monster, a long line is attached, which has on the end of it an

inflated bladder, this buoys the spot where the hypopotamus is breathing

his last; and in twenty-four hours, or less, according to the potency

of the poison used, and the vulnerability of the place struck, the huge

carcase floats; when the Natives tow it to the shore, and enjoy the rich

repast which their industry and ingenuity has provided for them. The

teeth of these monsters are very good ivory. I endeavoured to obtain both

here, and also at Killimane, the skeleton of one, pointing out to the

Portuguese that the ants would soon clean the bones, if they would pack

them up, and send them to me at Mozambique. I even offered a handsome

amount for a fœtus, which might often be obtained from the females which

they kill, intending to forward it to my friend, Professor Owen. But the

truth is, the Portuguese all laughed at the idea of troubling themselves

with any specimens in natural history beneath the dignity of man. Of man

in all his varieties, male and female, and of all ages, from lisping

infancy to decrepid age, I could have had any number at my own price;

frequently for two dollars per specimen, and sometimes even for half that

price.

Rice, Indian corn, or mealies, milho (small grain for the use of the

slaves), simsim seed, yams, cassava, &c., and nearly all the European

vegetables, will grow well and abundantly, if sown in a shady place,

under lofty trees, and well watered. Potatoes, when a foot above the

ground, ought to have the plant broken, not off, but so that it will lie

on the ground; this will promote the growth of the bulb; otherwise the

plant would grow to a great height at the expense of the root. English

and Mapoota Rivers are both said to take their rise in the Transvaal

Republic, the following brief notice of which may not be unacceptable to

the reader anxious to obtain an insight into the riches of a hitherto

unknown country.

The Transvaal Republic is divided into six principal divisions, viz.:—

1. Potchefstroom, or Mooi River Drop, which is the capital of the

Transvaal Republic, said to be a village of some extent, but as yet

thinly built upon. It is watered by the Mooi River, a narrow and rapid

stream, said to take its rise about fifteen miles above the town, and to

flow into the Vaal River, about twenty miles after passing the town. This

district is not reported as being very inviting to emigrants.

2. Pretoria Philadelphica, situated on the south side of the

Magaliesberg, or Eushan Mountains, contains only seven houses, and yet

is said to have as numerous a population as any other district in the

Republic. It is spoken of as the most salubrious, picturesque, and

productive of the Transvaal districts.

3. Rustenberg is situated on the north of the Magaliesberg, and lies

about seventy miles west by north from Pretoria Philadelphica. This is a

most fruitful district, but like most of those situated to the northward

of the Magaliesberg Mountains, it is excessively hot in the summer

season; very trying to adults, and although not fatal to children, yet

during the hot season there is much sickness among them.

4. Zoutpansberg is the northern boundary of the Transvaal country.

The southern side of the mountain has a climate similar to that of

Rustenberg, but to the northward of the mountain the climate is said to

be bad. Persons crossing it, in the summer months, have been frequently

attacked with fever of a very pernicious character; and, it is said, have

brought yellow fever into the small village of Schoemansdel, which lies

under the mountain. In consequence of this a law has been passed that no

one shall cross the mountain between the months of October and May. This

district seems principally inhabited by ivory hunters, who have not as

yet been compelled to turn their attention to the soil.

5. Waterberg is situated between Pretoria and Zoutpansberg, at a distance

of about seventy miles from the former, in a northerly direction. It is

said to be very beautiful, more especially the more mountainous portions

of it. The climate is similar to that of Rustenberg.

In this district, horse sickness, which is at times so destructive at the

Cape and Natal, appears to be very prevalent. To the Boers, who may be

said to be always in the saddle, this is very distressing, and a great

drawback to the other advantages of the district. Even horses which have

had the sickness at Natal, and are therefore considered proof against

it, and are termed “salted horses,” here suffer as if they had not been

seasoned. But those which have been “salted” in the neighbouring Orange

Free State are said to be proof against the horse sickness in this

district.

A horse, which at Natal might be purchased for from ten to twelve pounds

sterling, will consequently bring from sixty to eighty pounds if properly

salted.

6. Zuiker Bosch Rand is a hilly district, lying about twenty miles north

of the Vaal River. It is said to be the highest land in the Transvaal

country, and therefore one will not be surprised to hear that it is the

most healthy. Sheep do here remarkably well, and some quantity of wool

is produced; while horses are as healthy on the highest portions of the

district as at Natal.

The Transvaal country has been long celebrated for abundance of game;

but here, as in the other portions of South Africa, it is rapidly

disappearing, and, before the end of this century, will probably be one

of those things which have been.

In the more southerly or cooler districts, that is to say, in

Potchefstroom, or Mooi River Drop, and Zuiker Bosch Rand, the

white-tailed gnu, blesbok, sprigbok, hartebeest, are still numerous;

whilst toward the source of the Vaal River elands and the common quagga

are met with.

North of the Magaliesberg the roybok or pallah, the brindled gnu,

springboks, zebras, giraffes, rynosters, hartebeest, bastard hartebeest,

khooder, waterbuck, gemsbuck, the harris, or zwart wit-pens buck, the

striped eland, discovered by Livingstone on the Shesheke, the buffalo and

the elephant, are still to be found within the Transvaal territory.

The government, foreseeing the rapid disappearance of the game, has

passed a law forbidding any one to waste the flesh of any wild animal,

under a penalty ranging from three to fifteen pounds for each offence,

according to the size of the animal. It is hoped that this will check the

indiscriminate slaughter carried on to obtain the skins of the animals.

Immediately to the north of the Transvaal country, the elephant is

found in plenty. During the summer months, Tetse fly and yellow fever

take up their abode in the northern side of the Zoutpansberg; but about

the middle of May, when the fever has disappeared, the hunters of the

Transvaal set out on foot, accompanied by Kaffirs to carry their guns,

ammunition, and provisions, and to bring in the ivory and rhinoceros’

horns.

Boers, from the age of fourteen to that of even seventy, may be seen

engaged in the hunt; and it is said that one William Fitzgerald, an

Englishman, carries off the palm as being the most fearless hunter in

the Transvaal country. It is stated that last year he remained in the

veldt without cover for nearly three months, during which time he was

accompanied by two half-castes in his employ. These three are said to

have killed, during that period, seventy elephants, the tusks of which

weighed upwards of 3,000 lbs. This man has, during twelve years as a

hunter, encountered as marvellous adventures as Gordon Cumming, which

some day he may communicate to the world.

In the Transvaal, wheat and other cereals thrive well. Tobacco is

produced in large quantities. All the fruits of the temperate zone are

said to be abundant; while, in the Magaliesberg district, oranges,

lemons, grapes, figs, peaches, apples, pears, apricots, with musk and

water melons, may be had in any quantity.

A Boer, of the name of Roos, has been growing the sugar-cane to the north

of the Magaliesberg, and has succeeded in making sugar.

The country is reported to be almost as well watered as Natal; and that,

we know, has a stream about every four miles.

The much-disputed source of the Limpopo is now said to be in the Web

Water Rond, a range of hills running parallel to Magaliesberg; Elephant

River is stated to run into the Maputa, or English River, both of which

discharge themselves on the south side of Delagoa Bay.

Apies River and Pienaars River are reported as running into the Limpopo,

near the boundary of the district of Rustenberg, on the confines of the

Transvaal; while the Limpopo is thought to be the Manakusi, or King

George’s River, running into the north part of Delagoa Bay.

The country of the Transvaal is rich in mineral productions. The rocks

are primary, with but here and there a superstratum of lime-stone. A

German miner, Dr. Dousterswivel (?), has succeeded in persuading the

Government that he can make a lead mine pay, and is working it for the

benefit of the state. Copper and plumbago are to be found there in

great quantity, and also in close proximity to Delagoa Bay. Already the

Transvaal republic supplies the Orange Free State, and also Natal, with

grain; and, when well governed, its destiny, whether as an independent

state, or one of the future federated South African states, under British

protection and rule, must be great.

The recent expedition of the British cutter, “Herald,” up the Manakusi

river, has shown its capabilities for navigation and commercial

intercourse with the interior; and, if it should be proved that this

is the outlet of the Limpopo, it is not the miserable hybrids at the

Portuguese factory of Lourenço Marques who will prevent British traders

establishing themselves on some healthy elevation in Delagoa Bay.

The value of the exports of these industrious Boers, in a few years, when

they have settled themselves, and turned their attention to the riches

of the soil, both on the surface and below it, may be estimated from

the fact that, last year, in the short space of three months, the ivory

obtained by the Boers, in Zoutpansberg alone, was computed at 60,000

pounds weight Dutch, or nearly thirty tons.

Travels in Eastern Africa, volume 1 (of 2) · 第 8 / 15 章