Further Detention at the Cape—Arrival of the “Frolic”
from Mozambique—“John of the Coast”—New Naval
Commander-in-Chief—Storm at the Cape—Courage of Cape
Boatmen—Destruction of Shipping in Table Bay—Embark in the
“Hermes”—Coast of Kaffraria—Well Watered and Beautiful Country.
I have already stated that I had arrived at Cape Town on the last day
in the month of January, since which date I had been using my best
endeavours to induce the Naval authorities to send me on to Mozambique.
But from some inexplicable cause I was detained at the Cape month after
month.
At first the Commodore was absent. In about six weeks after my arrival
he returned, and a month after that he had not made up his mind which
of the steamers of his squadron to send up the Mozambique Channel. Then
he intimated to me that it was the unhealthy season on the East Coast of
Africa. To this I replied, that all seasons were alike to me, and that it
was my duty to reach my Post immediately.
It was then stated that the governor, Sir George Grey, required the
steamers. I waited on His Excellency, and found that one steamer was
required for the service of the colony, to examine the St. John’s River.
I got into the mail cart, and proceeded to Simon’s Town, a distance of
twenty-two miles from Cape Town. At the end of my journey, I found that
the Commodore wished to wait for the arrival of H.M.S. “Frolic,” from the
Mozambique Channel, and that my movements were as uncertain as ever.
The “Frolic” arrived, and in her a passenger from Mozambique, who was
sent to officer’s quarters at the naval hospital. I again repaired to
Simon’s Town, and found that the Illustrious Señhor from Mozambique had
strongly recommended that no ship of war should be sent up the Mozambique
Channel at that season, as it was so unhealthy. I was introduced by
the Commodore to the Illustrious Señhor, who was recommended to me as a
“very good fellow,” a great friend of the English, and one who gave great
information relative to the slave trade. The Commodore was pleased to say
that the detention which had taken place would be all to my advantage, as
I would be accompanied to Mozambique by the Illustrious Señhor, who had
merely come to the Cape for the benefit of his health.
The Illustrious Señhor, whom I shall for the future call “John of the
Coast,” informed me that he had been ill for a long time, and that the
Commodore had offered him a passage to the Cape when there, in H.M.
frigate “Castor;” but that, having been apprized by his friends in London
that I had left England, he determined to remain at Mozambique, and await
my arrival at that place.
I thanked my newly made friend for his great consideration, and informed
him that I had already learned his great kindness to my countrymen who
called there in H.M. ships.
Subsequently, he told me that, having heard of my arrival at the Cape,
and being aware that no Cruiser would be sent up the Mozambique Channel
until the return of the “Frolic,” he had accepted the invitation of her
Commander, and had come to the Cape to make my acquaintance, as he felt
sure it would be mutually beneficial.
Acknowledging his great consideration, I asked him to pay me a visit as
soon as he was sufficiently recovered to undertake the journey. In a
fortnight’s time he was my guest, and remained in that capacity during
our further stay at the Cape.
“John of the Coast” informed me that he was the eldest son of a
Portuguese officer, of very exalted rank, at Mozambique; that his father
was a Brigadier in the Portuguese army, a man of great influence among
the native chiefs in Eastern Africa, and that, like himself, he was very
anxious that the Slave Trade should be abolished, and legitimate trade
introduced.
My guest gave me great information relative to the country which I was
about to visit, all of which, I afterwards found, was correct.
Time passed on, and the month of June arrived, bringing the steamer
“Charity” to Simon’s Bay, with the Honourable Sir Frederick Grey, K.C.B.,
as Rear-admiral and Commander-in-chief of Her Majesty’s naval forces on
the East and West African stations. Her Majesty’s steamer “Geyser” was
immediately placed at my disposal, and ordered to Table Bay to embark
myself and my baggage.
Whilst at anchor in Table Bay, the Commander of that vessel indulged
in such extraordinary antics, that it was apparent to most people that
he was suffering from an aberration of intellect, or from some other
exciting cause, which rendered him totally incompetent to command the
vessel in which the late Commodore had placed him as Acting Commander.
My baggage was on board the “Geyser,” and everything was ready for our
departure, when that vessel was ordered to Simon’s Bay, under charge of
the Senior Lieutenant, as it was found necessary to inquire into the
extraordinary conduct of her Acting Commander; and the “Hermes” was
ordered to receive my baggage and myself for conveyance to Mozambique.
On the eve of the departure of the “Geyser” from Table Bay for Simon’s
Bay, one of those terrific storms came on, which generally visit the Cape
some time in the month of June. Fortunately, the “Geyser” had her steam
up, and the officers succeeded in getting her out of Table Bay, after she
had carried away both chain cables from the violence of the sea which
sets into that anchorage with the commencement of a north-westerly gale.
When the chain cables of Her Majesty’s ships (which are not insured) are
carried away, it is certain that those supplied to merchantmen will not
hold out, and therefore it will not be surprising to hear that the gale
alluded to caused great destruction in Table Bay. When it commenced,
there were thirty-three fine merchantmen, of different sizes, and under
various flags, lying at anchor there, all more or less prepared for the
bad weather which is expected at Table Bay in the winter months of the
southern hemisphere.
For three days it blew with terrific violence, and during this time it
was a sublime but melancholy spectacle to see the sport made of the
works of man by the mighty power of the ocean which came tumbling into
this bay.
But, on the other hand, it was a lofty and inspiring sight to witness
the undaunted resolution with which the Cape boatmen laid out anchors
to windward of the ships in distress, and then conveyed the strong coir
elastic cables attached to them to hold on the parting vessels. During
the height of the storm, in the fury of the hurricane, the great and good
governor of the colony, Sir George Grey, was, by his presence and by his
exertions, aiding these measures in the cause of humanity.
For the laying out of an anchor, and conveying a coir cable attached to
it, the boatmen receive 150_l._ sterling, and well do they deserve that
amount, for the risk is very great. During the storm, one vessel was
charged 600_l._ for assistance of this sort, and it would be unwise to
dispute the charges made by these people; for one moment’s hesitation
in supplying the required aid may result in the loss of a vessel. This
is not the only danger, for when once a vessel gets adrift, there is no
knowing what amount of damage she may do to other vessels, and the loss
of how many of them she may cause.
Out of the thirty-three vessels lying in Table Bay at the commencement of
the gale, eleven were blown on shore, most of which became total wrecks,
and all of those that remained afloat were more or less severely damaged,
besides costing a large amount for anchors and cables. Of course all this
money is lost to the owners or underwriters. This one example will show
the necessity for the Harbour of Refuge already referred to.
The gale was over, the “Hermes” reported ready for sea, and we impatient
to start. After bidding farewell to our kind friends, the Maclears, the
Chevalier Duprat and family, and Mr. and Mrs. George Frere, from all of
whom we had received great kindness during our protracted stay at the
Cape, we got into a carriage, and started off to Simon’s Bay, where the
“Hermes” was awaiting us. Our party consisted of Mrs. M’Leod, Mr. Soares,
myself, and my wife’s maid, Rosa Smith, of whom mention will frequently
be made in the following pages.
A few miles before arriving at Simon’s Town, just previous to descending
to the sandy flats over which the public road passes, I desired the
coachman to pull up for the purpose of showing my wife a sign over a
wayside inn, which had struck my fancy amazingly.
As it was something novel in the way of advertising, I took a copy of it
while the horses were breathing, and insert it for the benefit of the
reader.
The house of refreshment rejoices in the name of “The Gentle Shepherd
of Salisbury Plain,” and the following inscription is placed on a large
board, which swings about with a screeching noise, evidently with an eye
to business:—
“Multum in parvo! Pro bono publico!
Entertainment for man and beast all of a row.
Lekker kost as much as you please,
Excellent beds without any fleas.
Nos patriam fugimus: Now we are here,
Vivimus, let us live by selling Beer.
On dit, à boire et à manger ici,
Come in and try it, whoever you be.”
On arriving at Simon’s Town, previous to embarking, I waited on the
Admiral; and Sir Frederick Grey being a man of business, a few minute’s
conversation with him placed me in possession of all the information
relative to the Mozambique territory, in his office. While the “Hermes”
was getting up her steam, the admiral’s clerks were set to copy the
documents which I selected as likely to be useful to me.
I had been endeavouring, without success, to learn something from the
naval authorities relative to Mozambique, for more than five months,
during which I was detained, most unwillingly on my part, at the Cape,
and now a new chief arrived, who immediately placed a vessel at my
disposal, and gave me the information I required. To me it is a subject
of great satisfaction to meet with the right man in the right place.
Besides those already named as belonging to my party, an officer and
thirty-three soldiers for Natal were passengers in the “Hermes;” and Mr.
Daniel Cloete, a brother of the Recorder of Natal, who is well known for
his lectures on that colony, was a guest of the ward-room officers of the
ship.
Pacing the deck of the “Hermes,” memory carried me back fourteen years,
to the day when I first ascended her side in Port Royal Harbour, Jamaica,
with my promotion into her as a midshipman, from the subordinate rank of
a volunteer of the first class, now denominated a naval cadet. The old
craft and I were no strangers; and I was glad to find that there was as
nice a set of fellows in her as in former days. Captain Gordon set an
example to all; and, indeed, I can never forget his great attention to
our comfort while on board. My wife, from his hearty welcome, felt quite
at home; and, although the old Symonite did roll uncommonly, we enjoyed
the passage in her amazingly.
Captain Gordon was an old cruiser in these waters, having been Senior
Lieutenant of a steamer during the Kaffir war; and, being well acquainted
with the coast, he kept well in shore, and took great pleasure in
pointing out to us every remarkable place on the passage to Natal.
One cannot help being struck with the park-like appearance of the land,
when steaming along the coast of Kaffraria; a valuable territory,
situated between our two colonies of the Cape and Natal, which, in the
course of events, must become annexed to our South African possessions.
Many parts of the country along this line of coast are truly picturesque,
and all really beautiful. But until one arrives at the St. John’s River,
the country appears to be indifferently wooded, with the exception of a
few places where magnificent timber-trees make their appearance. At the
St. John’s River, a visible change in the aspect of the country takes
place. There the land, being a succession of terraces rising from the
ocean, offers the most beautiful spots, already cleared away by the hand
of nature, for the erection of residences, having for their backgrounds
magnificent forests, while the sea view unfolds the boundless expanse
of the Southern Ocean, through storm and calm, bearing on its bosom the
argosies richly laden with the commerce of the East and the West.
From St. John’s River to Port Natal there are one hundred and twenty-two
rivers, all of which, of course, are not navigable; but many of them are
more or less practicable for boats and small vessels, giving access,
by water, to this rich country. Its value cannot be over-estimated,
being exceedingly healthy, and having a climate in which the vegetable
productions of the temperate and torrid zones may be raised side by side.
The fact of there being one hundred and twenty-two rivers discharging
themselves into the ocean, in a coast-line of one hundred and thirty
miles, shows how beautifully the country is naturally irrigated. Man’s
energy is alone required to turn the virgin soil of this district into a
land of plenty.