[Illustration: J. Saddler.
LYONS Mc. LEOD, F.R.G.S. &c. &c.
London: Hurst & Blackett, 1860.]
TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA;
WITH
THE NARRATIVE OF A RESIDENCE IN
MOZAMBIQUE.
BY
LYONS MCLEOD, ESQ., F.R.G.S.,
HONORARY FELLOW OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ARTS AND SCIENCES
AND OF THE METEOROLOGICAL SOCIETY, MAURITIUS
LATE H.B.M. CONSUL AT MOZAMBIQUE.
[Illustration: THE ROYAL OBSERVATORY, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.]
“Ethiopia shall soon stretch out her hands unto God.”—_Psalm
LXVIII. v. 31._
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,
SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN,
13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1860.
_The right of Translation is reserved._
TO THE MERCHANTS AND MEMBERS OF CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE OF GREAT BRITAIN AND
IRELAND.
GENTLEMEN,
Impressed with the conviction that, from the most remote time,
Civilization and Christianity have been best promoted by Commerce, which
binds rival nations in the bonds of Peace, I respectfully dedicate this
work to the Mercantile portion of my countrymen, in the hope that by
their united efforts, Slavery may be made to disappear from the continent
of Africa, through the establishment of commercial relations, especially
with that rich portion of its coast and the neighbouring Ethiopian
Archipelago, including the fertile island of Madagascar, described in the
following pages.
I have the honor to be, GENTLEMEN,
Your most obedient and humble Servant,
THE AUTHOR.
CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
CHAPTER I.
The “Ireland”—W.S.L. Postal-line—Mr. Jenkins—The Author
Discovers that he is Styled a “Government”—The General’s
Quarters—Proceed to Sea—Accident in the Saloon—Total Darkness
in the “Lower Regions”—Spittoons and Safety Lamps—The Gale—Put
Back to Plymouth—Ten Passengers Leave the “Ireland.” 1
CHAPTER II.
Departure from Plymouth—Reflections on Leaving England—Cabin
Attendants—Live Stock—Mr. Jenkins and “the Pure Element”—N.E.
Trades—Red Atlantic Dust—Short Allowance of Water—Viewing the
“Line”—The Southern Cross—A Lady Navigator—“Fire! Fire!”—The
Maniac—Arrival at the Cape 25
CHAPTER III.
W.S.L., Worst Steam-Line—Table Mountain—The Table-cloth is
Spread—Pic-nic to Constantia—Careless Smoking—Cape Wines—The
“Ireland” Proceeds to India—Melancholy Forebodings—Midnight
Alarm in Simon’s Bay—The Cape Observatory 49
CHAPTER IV.
Table Bay—Breakwater to be Built—Harbour of Refuge—Policy of
Sir George Grey—Proposal for Carrying the Mail to the Cape by
way of Aden—Discovery of Coal on the Zambesi—Its Effects on
the Future of South and East Africa—Absence of Trees at Cape
Town—Climate of the Cape 67
CHAPTER V.
Further Detention at the Cape—Arrival of the “Frolic”
from Mozambique—“John of the Coast”—New Naval
Commander-in-Chief—Storm at the Cape—Courage of Cape
Boatmen—Destruction of Shipping in Table Bay—Embark in the
“Hermes”—Coast of Kaffraria—Well Watered and Beautiful Country 87
CHAPTER VI.
Arrive at Natal—The Bar—Proposed Harbour of Refuge—Wharves
in the St. Lawrence—Railroad at Natal—D’Urban—Port Natal
Harbour—Verulam—Pieter-Maritzburg—Slave Ship off Port Natal—The
Havannah Slavers—Chamber of Commerce—Natal Waggon—“Daft Jemmy” 100
CHAPTER VII.
Present State of Natal—Physical Formation—Succession of
Terraces—Products most suitable for Each—Labour Required for
Natal—Development and Prosperity of Free Labour Colonies—The
Destruction of the Slave Trade—Climate of Natal—“Shall we
Retain our Colonies?” 130
CHAPTER VIII.
Port St. Lucia—Zulu Country—Panda—Delagoa Bay—Its
Unhealthiness; Causes Examined—Lourenço Marques—Dutch
Fort—Tembe and Iniack—British Territory—Fecundity of Boer
Females—Products—Transvaal Republic—Mineral Wealth—Future of
the Country 147
CHAPTER IX.
Appearance of the Coast to the North of Delagoa
Bay—Facility of Shipping Slaves—Slavers’ Signals—Rivers
Lagoa and Inhampura—Cape Corrientes—“Sail, ho!”—The
Chase—“Zambesi”—Ex-Governor Leotti—A Slaver Clears from
Cardiff—Inhambane—Products—Mineral Wealth 180
CHAPTER X.
Kingdom of Mocoranga—Kotba for the Soudan of Cairo—Sultan
of Kilwa—Kingdom of Algarves—Remains of Ancient
Cities—Inscriptions not Deciphered—Zimboë Bruce—Sofala, the
Ancient Ophir—Productions—The Manica Gold Mines—Surrounding
Region Adapted for Europeans—Industry of the Natives—The
Priests Rob the Jewels from the Image of the Blessed Virgin 204
CHAPTER XI.
The River Zambesi—Luavo Mouths—Killimane—River Shire—Valley
of the Shire Abounding in Elephants—How Salt is Made on
the Zambesi—From the Ocean to Kaord Vasa Navigable at all
Seasons—Water Rises Sixty Feet in Narrows of Lupata—Access
to the Cazembe Territory by the Zambesi—Three Seams of Coal
Discovered—Products 225
CHAPTER XII.
Angoxa—Its History—Perfidious Conduct of the Portuguese—Effects
of British Interference—Wholesome Dread which the Portuguese
have of the Imâm of Muskat—Visit of the Sultan of Angoxa to
Johanna—Invites a British Merchant to Trade with him—Seizure of
the British Brig “Reliance” 245
CHAPTER XIII.
Arrival at Mozambique—Interview with the
Governor-General—Saluting the Consular Flag—Description of the
Consul’s House on the Mainland—Portuguese Rosa—Cruelty of the
Portuguese Towards their Slaves—“Flog until he will Require no
More!”—Irrigation and Native Labour 258
CHAPTER XIV.
Brief Historical Sketch of the Portuguese on the East Coast of
Africa—Description of Mozambique—Its Position as an Emporium
for Commerce—Its Restoration, like that of Alexandria,
possible—Fort San Sebastian—Churches and Chapels—Palace of the
Governor-General—Wharf—Population—Society 279
CHAPTER XV.
Slave-Trade under the French Flag—Vessels Employed—How Fitted
and Provisioned—Price Paid for Slaves by the French—Ceremony
of Engaging the “Labourers”—How Treated at Réunion—Dhows
Employed, and Horrors of the Traffic—Statement of the Captain
of a French Trading Vessel—Statement of the Supercargo of an
American Trading Vessel—Revolt of Slaves on Board of a French
Brig, and Massacre of the Crew—How the Slaves are obtained in
the Interior of Africa—The Natives Rise _en masse_—Feelings of
the Natives towards British Consul and Family—The “Zambesi”
assisting the “Minnetonka” to obtain Slaves 303
TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA.
CHAPTER I.
The “Ireland”—W.S.L. Postal-line—Mr. Jenkins—The Author
Discovers that he is Styled a “Government”—The General’s
Quarters—Proceed to Sea—Accident in the Saloon—Total Darkness
in the “Lower Regions”—Spittoons and Safety Lamps—The Gale—Put
Back to Plymouth—Ten Passengers Leave the “Ireland.”
On the 6th December, 1856, I embarked, with my wife, on board the Royal
Mail Screw Steamer “Ireland,” for the Cape of Good Hope, _en route_ to
Mozambique, to which place I had been appointed as Her Majesty’s Consul.
Externally, the “Ireland” was what sailors call a very “tidy craft.” She
was about 1,000 tons burthen; long, low, and rakish; having three masts
and one funnel, and what is called a stump bowsprit. As she was fitted
with a screw propeller, she was devoid of those great protuberances
called paddle-boxes, which in a steamer so materially (to my eye) destroy
the symmetry of the hull of the vessel, which, in this case, was built of
iron, and painted entirely black.
Flying at the mizen peak was the well known ensign of Old England, the
field of which appeared to me unusually disfigured by the talismanic
letters, W.S.L., in a glaring yellow colour, begrimed by soot.
On asking the meaning of those letters, I was told that they were the
initials of an M. P., who had not only sufficient interest to obtain
the contract for carrying the mail in a line of very slow steamers, but
who was held in such dread by a venerable body of old gentlemen sitting
behind the sign of the “Sea Horses,” in Whitehall, known as the Board of
Admiralty, that the M. P., W.S.L., was permitted to place the initials
of his name on the national ensign, without being subjected to the usual
fines and penalties inflicted on those similarly offending. Others told
me that W.S.L. stood for the “worst steam line,” but this I looked upon
as the invention of some disappointed mail contractor.
Such was the “Ireland” externally; and, as she was at anchor in the
beautiful little west-country harbour of Dartmouth, which boasted W.S.L.
for its representative in the House of Commons, the saucy craft might
well say, “I am monarch of all I survey.”
Arriving alongside of the “Ireland,” about one hour before her advertised
time of sailing, in a small steamer full of fellow passengers, which had
brought us some miles down the little river Dart, we imagined that there
would be every accommodation for our reception; but, on the contrary,
we found that we were not supposed to come near her for some imaginary
time, which they on board could not name to us. All that we learned was,
that the numerous barges then alongside of her, full of coals, had to be
cleared of their cargoes before the passengers were allowed on board.
To our repeated applications to be permitted alongside, we were told to
return to the shore; and as it was raining very heavily, the man who
was steering the small steamer, put her helm up and made for the land;
however, this being done without the consent of the passengers, they soon
took matters into their own hands, and compelled the small craft to dash
alongside, causing considerable damage to the coal-barges. Exposed to a
volley of abuse, some of the most adventurous of the gentlemen scrambled
on board, and we were actually compelled to appeal to the commander of
the vessel before we could get the ladies on the deck of the “Ireland.”
It appears that we had unfortunately arrived alongside of the vessel at
the cabin dinner-hour, and were exposed to all this inconvenience at the
whim of the chief officer and the head steward; the former of whom wished
to clear the coal-barges, and the latter to save himself the trouble of
laying a few more plates on the table.
No sooner were we on board of this passenger ship than we found ourselves
rudely pushed about, and, after having been driven round the wet deck
with pigs, sheep, and poultry, with considerable difficulty we threaded
our way through hampers, water-casks, coals, &c., to the cabin saloon.
This was an elegant apartment, decorated with gold and green, having at
the further end a grate and marble mantel-piece; but as the chimney led
to the screw propeller, of course, the first time a fire was lighted, the
saloon and cabins were deserted in consequence of the smoke, which made
one almost fancy that the ship was on fire; so it turned out to be for
ornament and not for use.
Observing the state of confusion in which everything was on board this
first-class passenger ship—being an old traveller—as soon as the ladies
were placed in shelter from the rain, which was coming down in a most
pitiless manner, I returned to the deck to look after my luggage, when
I found that the chief officer had ordered the small steamer to return
to the shore with the luggage of all those passengers who had succeeded
in reaching the deck of the “Ireland,” contrary to his wishes. This
officer, who was promised a command in the W.S.L. Line of Steamers on his
return to England, took upon himself to _mark_ the passengers who had
so offended him, and during the passage he had to be admonished by the
commander for his marked rudeness to some of the ladies, as well as the
gentlemen who had acted contrary to his wishes on the occasion referred
to. On an application being made to the commander, the small steamer was
ordered alongside, and we recovered our luggage.
Returning to the saloon, we found considerable commotion among the lady
passengers, as it was discovered that the “ladies’ saloon” had been
appropriated for the use of a family.
To my inquiry for my cabin or state-room, the head steward replied,
“You’re a government passenger, sir—you must go below; your cabin is the
aftermost one but one, on the starboard side of the lower deck. That’s
the way, sir! down that ladder.” With considerable difficulty I descended
a ladder which received many a blessing from the passengers during
the voyage. Arrived at the bottom of the shaft (for I can liken the
descent only to that into a coal mine), I found myself in a dark, dismal
locality, always afterwards denominated the “lower regions.” Here were
squalling babies, fighting stewards, swearing sailors, and discontented
everybodies.
On asking if there was any one there to point out the cabins, a voice
answered from a distance, “Why the d—l do you not come with that water?
I will not get a bit of dinner this night;” while another one exclaimed,
“I’ll break your head if you do not hurry and bring me a light?” Even the
children in this dismal place appeared to be bent on doing harm, and were
engaged in combat with each other, or struggling with their weary and
discontented nurses.
After making good use of my lungs, a queer-looking, red-headed, one-eyed
individual, in shirt sleeves, made his appearance, carrying in his hand a
tin spittoon, on the rim of which was the miserable remains of a purser’s
dip, by the flickering light of which I was examined from head to foot.
Cautiously approaching, the stranger welcomed me on board, and requested
me to make myself “quite at home.”
To my inquiry, “Who are you?” he replied:—“It’s all right, sir; you’ll
know me before long. On shore they call me ‘Mr. Jenkins,’ but on board
this thing I am called the ‘bed-room steward.’ However, here we are for
the voyage, sir, and we must make the best of it.”
I asked “Mr. Jenkins” to show me my cabin, when he inquired what my name
was. Having satisfied my interrogator on this point, he exclaimed:—
“Oh, you’re a government; come this way, sir.”
To my inquiry what he meant by calling me a “government,” Mr. Jenkins
replied, “You’ll see directly, sir!”
Following this extraordinary being through a labyrinth of boxes, hampers,
deal boards, carpenter’s tools, and carpet-bags, we arrived at the door
of a cabin, seizing the handle of which, Mr. Jenkins cautioned me not to
be disappointed, and gently opened it. Being in the after part of the
ship, I expected to find a small cabin, but not the miserable dog-hole
now revealed to me. It was barely six feet in length, and its extreme
breadth scarcely five feet.
To my exclamation that “there must be some mistake!” Mr. Jenkins replied:—
“No, sir; _he_ never makes mistakes! You see, sir, you’re a ‘government,’
as I told you before, and that is why _he_ has given you this cabin.”
After some exercise of patience and temper, I learned from Mr. Jenkins
that _he_ meant W.S.L., and that the term a “government” applied to
myself, referred to my being a government passenger, a certain number of
whom are carried by all steamers belonging to lines which have a contract
for carrying the mails.
To my observation that I was surprised that W.S.L. was not afraid to
treat the government passengers in such a shameful manner, by putting
them into cabins which he could not possibly let to any other passengers,
Mr. Jenkins stated that “W.S.L. was not afraid of any government, that he
hated all ‘governments,’ and when he got them on board of his ships he
always served them in that way.”
To this I could only remark, on more minutely examining the cabin, that
it was a most disgraceful place to put a lady into. Jenkins, ever ready
with an answer, immediately replied:—
“You see, sir, all ‘governments’ are supposed to be
gentlemen—‘governments’ are not supposed to be married.”
“But surely, Jenkins, there must be some better cabin than this still
vacant?”
“No, sir, not one; take my advice and make the best of it. You see, sir,
outside here in the steerage we have little enough room at any time,
but, considering we are bound to a hot climate, it will be stifling in a
fortnight’s time—well, the Admiralty insist upon _his_ taking the full
number of ‘governments’ with him this voyage. Well, _he_ has already let
all the cabins and got paid for them; the consequence is that for one of
‘the governments’ _he_ has ordered this ‘structure’ to be built. Just
come and look at it, sir.”
Following my loquacious friend, I managed at last to reach the hatchway
close to which the carpenters were elevating what Jenkins had termed a
“structure,” to be adapted into a sleeping cabin for a gentleman, as I
afterwards found, six feet in height.
Asking for an explanation of this stoppage to the ventilation of the
“lower regions,” Jenkins, ever ready to explain his part of this
passenger ship, exclaimed:—
“This, sir, is what I wish particularly to point out to you; the men
employed upon it call it the ‘general’s quarters,’ the children call it
‘Punch’s house,’ and I call it the ‘structure.’ Have you any interest,
sir, with the Board of Trade?”
“What makes you ask such a question?”
“Don’t be offended, sir; I have put that question to every ‘government’
that has come on board of this ship.”
“If I was a ‘government,’ I would stop this ship—that ‘structure’ is sure
to cause fever and death.”
Leaving Mr. Jenkins gazing on the “structure,” I hurried on deck and
found my way into the saloon, where I explained the state of things below
to my wife. I found that some ladies who had preceded us in their arrival
on board, and who, like us, were government passengers, had already made
her acquainted with the very inferior accommodation to which we were
condemned for the voyage.
The ladies retired early that evening, for the greater number of them
had travelled a considerable distance during the day; but what with the
hammering kept up all night by the carpenters, the straw pillows, and the
miserable coffins of berths, on comparing notes the next morning, it was
found that but few among the passengers, male or female, slept during the
first night on board the “Ireland.”
On examining the “structure” the next morning, we perceived that it had
visibly increased its dimensions during the night, thereby excluding
light and air. Jenkins talked in a despairing tone of the “Board of
Trade,” and occasionally alluded to the “Emigration Commissioners,” but
despite this the “structure,” accompanied by, if possible, increasing
noise, progressed, greatly to the amusement of the little boys, and to
the annoyance of all adults.
After breakfast we were told that the vessel would not be ready for sea
before two days, and some of the passengers and myself went on shore in
search of carpenters to fit up our cabins. In my cabin, the dimensions
of which I have already given, there were two sleeping berths, the lower
of which it was impossible for one to lie in, much less to sleep there;
and this vessel was going to cross the equator twice during her outward
voyage.
Such meagre accommodation would not have been permitted in an emigrant
vessel; and here was a mail steamer, under the pretence of being a
first-class ship, obtaining passengers from the old established Indian
traders, who were paying higher passage money than by those ships,
and sixty passengers were crowded into a space where there was barely
accommodation for half that number.
With the aid of a carpenter from the shore, the upper berth was enlarged,
but with the lower one it was found impossible to do anything without
curtailing the already small standing room. It was therefore turned into
a receptacle for carpet-bags, and I made my mind up to sleep on the floor
for the passage to the Cape of Good Hope.
With an outlay of about three pounds sterling on our _state-room_, it was
made tenantable; and it was calculated that the passengers had expended
about one hundred pounds on fittings in their cabins, or state-rooms,
which ought to have been there on their arrival on board the “Ireland.”
Evening came, and there was no cessation to the hammering which had
been going on ever since we scrambled on board. The carpenters were to
be employed another night in completing the “general’s quarters,” or,
as the children would insist upon calling it, “Punch’s house.” It was
therefore determined, by those whose unfortunate lot it was to have their
state-rooms in the “lower regions,” to remain in the saloon all night, as
it was quite impossible to sleep with the hammering and shouting carried
on below, accompanied, as it would be, by the thrilling tones of the
interesting little darlings who had hitherto displayed very bellicose
dispositions.
About eleven o’clock, we asked the head steward to furnish us with some
supper; firstly, because we were really hungry; and, secondly, because
we were all good-humouredly putting up with the great inconvenience of
remaining in the saloon, instead of retiring to our cabins, we thought,
and very naturally too, that some supper would have enabled us to pass
the time more agreeably.
The steward appeared quite bewildered at our asking such a thing, and
replied “that suppers were not allowed.” But we were not to be put
off with this reply. The passengers whose state-rooms led out of the
saloon determined that their friends belonging to the “lower regions”
should have some refreshments, and soon produced from their state-rooms
innumerable delicacies, which had been laid in for the voyage. While
enjoying this pic-nic, the unhappy steward, who foresaw in this
demonstration the future violation of the rules and regulations of the
W.S.L. Line of Steamers, without a moment’s notice, put the lights
out, and left us in utter darkness. Some of the young folks proposed
a serenade, to which all willingly gave their consent, and in this
agreeable manner another hour was passed.
At midnight the steward again made his appearance, and informed us that
we were too noisy, and that we must disperse.
Under these circumstances, there was nothing to be done but to go below.
Bidding our hospitable friends in the saloon state-rooms “pleasant
dreams and sweet repose,” we descended the ladder leading to the “lower
regions,” and formed ourselves into a committee of inspection on the
“general’s quarters,” where we found a young indigo planter, of five
years of age, was in possession of the premises, where he insisted upon
rehearsing, even at that early hour, certain portions of Punch, much
to the amusement of the carpenters working at the expense of W.S.L.,
and of some young Scotch cadets bound to India, who, even at that early
period of the voyage, began to look upon young Frank Indigo as a “fearfu’
laddie.”
The whole of that night there was a continuation of hammering, shouting,
singing, whistling, and crying. And thus another sleepless night was
passed; and we were all glad when daylight dawned, and we repaired to the
steamer’s dirty deck.
On the afternoon of the 8th, preparations were made for going to sea; and
about 5 P.M., Captain Bully, the agent of the W.S.L. Line of Steamers,
came on board, and informed the commander of the “Ireland” that he must
proceed to sea at once.
The steam was up, and, although thick clouds were seen banking up in the
south west, the scud flying fast to the north east over our heads, the
sea-birds, with their alarming cries, flying inland, and the mercury in
the barometer falling rapidly, Captain Bully said these indications were
“all nonsense,” and that we would have fine weather; besides, if the
mails were detained any longer, W.S.L. would be fined; and that therefore
we must go to sea, after which he had nothing to do with us. Accordingly,
at 6 P.M., we passed from the snug little harbour of Dartmouth into the
English Channel, to breast a gale of whose approach even the ducks and
geese on board the ship were sensible.
As soon as we got into the Channel, we found it was blowing fresh, with a
heavy cross sea from the south west. The engines were weak, and, although
the screw propeller made a great deal of noise, it did very little work.
In two hours’ time all the passengers were obliged to retire to their
state-rooms, with the exception of a few old tars, myself being numbered
among the latter.
As the night advanced the wind grew louder, the sea more boisterous, and
the straining and creaking of the ship, together with those mysterious
noises which are heard in a new vessel, increased.
In the “lower regions” we were entirely in darkness, and it appeared
impossible to procure a light in the state-rooms.
In the middle of this melancholy state of affairs, a fearful crash was
heard in the saloon, which conveyed the impression to those below that
something serious had happened. The report was immediately circulated in
the “lower regions” that the marble mantel-piece had been carried away,
killing three of the gentlemen in the saloon. When the accident occurred,
I happened to be in the saloon, and was fortunate in saving one gentleman
from seriously injuring himself. The fact was that the seats or benches
running along the saloon-tables were secured to the deck by large screws,
which, being made of inferior metal, or imperfectly cast, snapped off
during one of the heavy rolls of the vessel; the consequence was that all
those persons seated on the bench which gave way were precipitated with
some considerable violence against the side cabins, suffering more or
less injury. The second officer and two of the passengers were a good
deal hurt, the officer being carried to his cabin.
As I sat at the end of the table, near the marble mantel-piece, until the
real circumstances of the case were known, it was supposed by many that
I was one of those injured, and, on descending to the “lower regions,” I
found my wife, who is a great sufferer at sea, almost dead with terror.
For, it appears, she heard those outside of her cabin say that three of
the gentlemen were killed. This accident had such an effect upon her
nervous system, that she did not recover from it for the whole voyage.
On asking Mr. Jenkins the cause of his portion of the ship being in
darkness, he replied that “the candles sent on board were too large for
the lamps in the state-rooms, and that it was impossible for one man to
cut them down fast enough.”
Jenkins had no one to help him, his ordinary assistants having to yield
to the “_mal de mer_,” and he was at his wit’s end what to do to keep the
place lighted. Fertile in invention, on this occasion a most amusing idea
came to his aid. In the earlier part of the day he had come across some
dozens of tin spittoons, which had been sent on board the vessel, by a
mistake, for some other articles of more importance. Jenkins bethought
him of these useless implements, and having tried one of the offending
candles, he found that it would just fit into the spittoon, and he at
once decided upon saving himself the trouble of reducing the candles by
placing them in the spittoons. Accordingly, on a bed-room candle-stick
being asked for, Jenkins handed one of these spittoons, with a candle in
it, accompanied by a polite bow and a bland smile, as if he was supplying
the latest fashion of safety-lamp. It was afterwards suggested to
Jenkins, by a lady, that if the candles were held in hot water they might
be evenly reduced to any diameter; while, at the same time, there would
be a considerable saving of the material, which Jenkins might turn into
money on getting into harbour. The hint was taken, and the passengers
were not compelled to use a spittoon for a bed-cabin candle-stick.
There was little sleep in the “Ireland” that night, what with the
noise below, the rolling and pitching of the ship, the screams of the
affrighted children, the rushing of feet upon deck, the noise of the
steam, and the screw-propeller—all occasionally hushed in the howling of
the tempest. Still the “Ireland” had to breast the sea, and it would be
no common gale that would induce her determined commander to put back.
About four o’clock the next morning, we were disturbed by a noise which
made every one in the afterpart of the vessel, below the upper deck,
imagine, for a moment, that the ship had struck a rock, so violent was
the shock given to the frame of the vessel.
On inquiry, it was ascertained that one of the extra water-tanks carried
on deck, not having been lashed, had got adrift; and, after having first
nearly unshipped the funnel, it brought up against the bulwark, where it
injured the side of the vessel considerably.
So slight a cause creating so violent a shock gave us but a poor opinion
of the frame of the ship, which we found was built by contract.
The storm continued with that loud howling of the wind, and sharp
whistling among the shrouds, which betokened the increase of the gale;
while, occasionally, the vessel would descend into the sea as if she were
overburdened, and anon a mighty sea would strike, arresting her in her
progress, and making her shake from stem to stern.
At five o’clock the close-reefed topsails were blown into ribbons, the
storm staysail was torn to shreds, and the engines, unassisted by canvas,
soon gave indications of their weakness. It was found that the machinery
was totally unfit to drive the vessel in the face of the gale and sea
with which she had to contend. As day dawned, there was every prospect
of an increase of the gale, and the prudent commander determined to seek
shelter while yet the engines were not disabled. Hardly had we bore up
for Plymouth, when the gale increased, and, by the rapid falling of the
barometer, we had reasons for believing that the most dangerous part of
the revolving storm passed very near to us.
As soon as we were at anchor under shelter in the magnificent breakwater
at Plymouth, the passengers began to make their appearance in the saloon,
and it was then discovered that there were not seats for many of them at
the table; in consequence of which, and the general discontent at the
arrangements on board, ten of the passengers left the ship.
This created some vacancies in the state-rooms leading out of the saloon,
and as I was obliged to go on by that mail, I insisted upon having one of
the vacant state-rooms, by which means we left the “lower regions.” All
the fixtures which we had put up for our comfort were removed to our new
quarters, and the ladies on board said that my wife’s cabin was the most
comfortable in the vessel, which I thought was not saying much for it.
During our late cruise, many of the ladies who had embarked without
their husbands fared very badly. Mrs. R., with two children and a nurse,
passengers to Mauritius, from the hour she came on board, on the eve
of our departure from Dartmouth, until her husband stepped on deck at
Plymouth, to take herself and little ones on shore, had not tasted
anything with the exception of a little cold water taken from a can in
her cabin, which was so strong of paint that it made herself and her
children quite ill. Of course this lady and her family did not return to
the “Ireland” after landing at Plymouth, nor would any of her friends
sail again in any vessel having W.S.L. connected with her.
Soon after our arrival at Plymouth, we had a warm invitation from our
friends on shore to renew our late visit. We got a good ducking while
reaching the shore in one of the Plymouth boats; but this and our past
dangers were soon forgotten in the affectionate greetings and smiling
welcomes of our kind friends. But this was not to last long, for the next
day, as we were sitting down to an early Sunday dinner, a carriage drove
up to the door, with a note from the Captain of the “Ireland,” telling
us that he was going to start immediately; so, once more taking a hasty
farewell of our hospitable friends, we found ourselves again on board the
“Ireland.”