This is the N W part of Tofoa, the north-westernmost of the Friendly
Islands.
[Sidenote: Thursday 30.]
Thursday, April 30th. Fair weather, but the wind blew so violently from
the E S E that I could not venture to sea. Our detention therefore made
it absolutely necessary to see what we could do more for our support;
for I determined, if possible, to keep my first stock entire: I
therefore weighed, and rowed along shore, to see if any thing could be
got; and at last discovered some cocoa-nut trees, but they were on the
top of high precipices, and the surf made it dangerous landing; both
one and the other we, however, got the better of. Some, with much
difficulty, climbed the cliffs, and got about 20 cocoa-nuts, and others
slung them to ropes, by which we hauled them through the surf into the
boat. This was all that could be done here; and, as I found no place so
eligible as the one we had left to spend the night at, I returned to the
cove, and, having served a cocoa-nut to each person, we went to rest
again in the boat.
[Sidenote: 1789. APRIL 30.]
At dawn of day I attempted to get to sea; but the wind and weather
proved so bad, that I was glad to return to my former station; where,
after issuing a morsel of bread and a spoonful of rum to each person, we
landed, and I went off with Mr. Nelson, Mr. Samuel, and some others,
into the country, having hauled ourselves up the precipice by long
vines, which were fixed there by the natives for that purpose; this
being the only way into the country.
We found a few deserted huts, and a small plantain walk, but little
taken care of; from which we could only collect three small bunches of
plantains. After passing this place, we came to a deep gully that led
towards a mountain, near a volcano; and, as I conceived that in the
rainy season very great torrents of water must pass through it, we hoped
to find sufficient for our use remaining in some holes of the rocks;
but, after all our search, the whole that we found was only nine
gallons, in the course of the day. We advanced within two miles of the
foot of the highest mountain in the island, on which is the volcano that
is almost constantly burning. The country near it is all covered with
lava, and has a most dreary appearance. As we had not been fortunate in
our discoveries, and saw but little to alleviate our distresses, we
filled our cocoa-nut shells with the water we found, and returned
exceedingly fatigued and faint. When I came to the precipice whence we
were to descend into the cove, I was seized with such a dizziness in my
head, that I thought it scarce possible to effect it: however, by the
assistance of Mr. Nelson, and others, they at last got me down, in a
weak condition. Every person being returned by noon, I gave about an
ounce of pork and two plantains to each, with half a glass of wine. I
again observed the latitude of this place 19° 41´ south. The people who
remained by the boat I had directed to look for fish, or what they could
pick up about the rocks; but nothing eatable could be found: so that,
upon the whole, we considered ourselves on as miserable a spot of land
as could well be imagined.
I could not say positively, from the former knowledge I had of this
island, whether it was inhabited or not; but I knew it was considered
inferior to the other islands, and I was not certain but that the
Indians only resorted to it at particular times. I was very anxious to
ascertain this point; for, in case there had only been a few people
here, and those could have furnished us with but very moderate supplies,
the remaining in this spot to have made preparations for our voyage,
would have been preferable to the risk of going amongst multitudes,
where perhaps we might lose every thing. A party, therefore,
sufficiently strong, I determined should go another route, as soon as
the sun became lower; and they cheerfully undertook it.
[Sidenote: MAY. Friday 1.]
Friday, May the 1st: stormy weather, wind E S E and S E. About two
o'clock in the afternoon the party set out; but, after suffering much
fatigue, they returned in the evening, without any kind of success.
At the head of the cove, about 150 yards from the water-side, was a
cave; across the stony beach was about 100 yards, and the only way from
the country into the cove was that which I have already described. The
situation secured us from the danger of being surprised, and I
determined to remain on shore for the night, with a part of my people,
that the others might have more room to rest in the boat, with the
master; whom I directed to lie at a grapnel, and be watchful, in case we
should be attacked. I ordered one plantain for each person to be boiled;
and, having supped on this scanty allowance, with a quarter of a pint of
grog, and fixed the watches for the night, those whose turn it was, laid
down to sleep in the cave; before which we kept up a good fire, yet
notwithstanding we were much troubled with flies and musquitoes.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 1.]
At dawn of day the party set out again in a different route, to see what
they could find; in the course of which they suffered greatly for want
of water: they, however, met with two men, a woman, and a child; the men
came with them to the cove, and brought two cocoa-nut shells of water. I
immediately made friends with these people, and sent them away for
bread-fruit, plantains, and water. Soon after other natives came to us;
and by noon I had 30 of them about me, trading with the articles we were
in want of: but I could only afford one ounce of pork, and a quarter of
a bread-fruit, to each man for dinner, with half a pint of water; for I
was fixed in not using any of the bread or water in the boat.
No particular chief was yet among the natives: they were,
notwithstanding, tractable, and behaved honestly, giving the provisions
they brought for a few buttons and beads. The party who had been out,
informed me of having discovered several neat plantations; so that it
became no longer a doubt of there being settled inhabitants on the
island; and for that reason I determined to get what I could, and sail
the first moment the wind and weather would allow me to put to sea.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 1.]
[Sidenote: Saturday 2.]
Saturday, May the 2d: stormy weather, wind E S E. It had hitherto been a
weighty consideration with me, how I was to account to the natives for
the loss of my ship: I knew they had too much sense to be amused with a
story that the ship was to join me, when she was not in sight from the
hills. I was at first doubtful whether I should tell the real fact, or
say that the ship had overset and sunk, and that only we were saved: the
latter appeared to me to be the most proper and advantageous to us, and
I accordingly instructed my people, that we might all agree in one
story. As I expected, enquiries were made after the ship, and they
seemed readily satisfied with our account; but there did not appear the
least symptom of joy or sorrow in their faces, although I fancied I
discovered some marks of surprise. Some of the natives were coming and
going the whole afternoon, and we got enough of bread-fruit, plantains,
and cocoa-nuts for another day; but water they only brought us about
five pints. A canoe also came in with four men, and brought a few
cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, which I bought as I had done the rest. Nails
were much enquired after, but I would not suffer one to be shewn, as I
wanted them for the use of the boat.
Towards evening I had the satisfaction to find our stock of provisions
somewhat increased: but the natives did not appear to have much to
spare. What they brought was in such small quantities, that I had no
reason to hope we should be able to procure from them sufficient to
stock us for our voyage. At sun-set all the natives left us in quiet
possession of the cove. I thought this a good sign, and made no doubt
that they would come again the next day with a larger proportion of food
and water, with which I hoped to sail without farther delay: for if, in
attempting to get to Tongataboo, we should be blown away from the
islands altogether, there would be a larger quantity of provisions to
support us against such a misfortune.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 2.]
At night I served a quarter of a bread-fruit and a cocoa-nut to each
person for supper; and, a good fire being made, all but the watch went
to sleep.
At day-break I was happy to find every one's spirits a little revived,
and that they no longer regarded me with those anxious looks, which had
constantly been directed towards me since we lost sight of the ship:
every countenance appeared to have a degree of cheerfulness, and they
all seemed determined to do their best.
As I doubted of water being brought by the natives, I sent a party among
the gullies in the mountains, with empty shells, to see what they could
get. In their absence the natives came about us, as I expected, but more
numerous; also two canoes came in from round the north side of the
island. In one of them was an elderly chief, called Maccaackavow. Soon
after some of our foraging party returned, and with them came a
good-looking chief, called Eegijeefow, or perhaps more properly Eefow,
Egij or Eghee, signifying a chief. To both these men I made a present of
an old shirt and a knife, and I soon found they either had seen me, or
had heard of my being at Annamooka. They knew I had been with captain
Cook, who they enquired after, and also captain Clerk. They were very
inquisitive to know in what manner I had lost my ship. During this
conversation a young man appeared, whom I remembered to have seen at
Annamooka, called Nageete: he expressed much pleasure at seeing me. I
now enquired after Poulaho and Feenow, who, they said, were at
Tongataboo; and Eefow agreed to accompany me thither, if I would wait
till the weather moderated. The readiness and affability of this man
gave me much satisfaction.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 2.]
This, however, was but of short duration, for the natives began to
increase in number, and I observed some symptoms of a design against us;
soon after they attempted to haul the boat on shore, when I threatened
Eefow with a cutlass, to induce him to make them desist; which they did,
and every thing became quiet again. My people, who had been in the
mountains, now returned with about three gallons of water. I kept buying
up the little bread-fruit that was brought to us, and likewise some
spears to arm my men with, having only four cutlasses, two of which were
in the boat. As we had no means of improving our situation, I told our
people I would wait until sun-set, by which time, perhaps, something
might happen in our favour: that if we attempted to go at present, we
must fight our way through, which we could do more advantageously at
night; and that in the mean time we would endeavour to get off to the
boat what we had bought. The beach was now lined with the natives, and
we heard nothing but the knocking of stones together, which they had in
each hand. I knew very well this was the sign of an attack. It being now
noon, I served a cocoa-nut and a bread-fruit to each person for dinner,
and gave some to the chiefs, with whom I continued to appear intimate
and friendly. They frequently importuned me to sit down, but I as
constantly refused; for it occurred both to Mr. Nelson and myself, that
they intended to seize hold of me, if I gave them such an opportunity.
Keeping, therefore, constantly on our guard, we were suffered to eat our
uncomfortable meal in some quietness.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 2.]
[Sidenote: Sunday 3.]
Sunday, 3d May, fresh gales at S E and E S E, varying to the N E in the
latter part, with a storm of wind.
After dinner we began by little and little to get our things into the
boat, which was a troublesome business, on account of the surf. I
carefully watched the motions of the natives, who still increased in
number, and found that, instead of their intention being to leave us,
fires were made, and places fixed on for their stay during the night.
Consultations were also held among them, and every thing assured me we
should be attacked. I sent orders to the master, that when he saw us
coming down, he should keep the boat close to the shore, that we might
the more readily embark.
I had my journal on shore with me, writing the occurrences in the cave,
and in sending it down to the boat it was nearly snatched away, but for
the timely assistance of the gunner.
The sun was near setting when I gave the word, on which every person,
who was on shore with me, boldly took up his proportion of things, and
carried them to the boat. The chiefs asked me if I would not stay with
them all night, I said, "No, I never sleep out of my boat; but in the
morning we will again trade with you, and I shall remain until the
weather is moderate, that we may go, as we have agreed, to see Poulaho,
at Tongataboo." Maccaackavow then got up, and said, "You will not sleep
on shore? then Mattie," (which directly signifies we will kill you) and
he left me. The onset was now preparing; every one, as I have described
before, kept knocking stones together, and Eefow quitted me. We had now
all but two or three things in the boat, when I took Nageete by the
hand, and we walked down the beach, every one in a silent kind of
horror.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 3.]
When I came to the boat, and was seeing the people embark, Nageete
wanted me to stay to speak to Eefow; but I found he was encouraging them
to the attack, and I determined, had it then begun, to have killed him
for his treacherous behaviour. I ordered the carpenter not to quit me
until the other people were in the boat. Nageete, finding I would not
stay, loosed himself from my hold and went off, and we all got into the
boat except one man, who, while I was getting on board, quitted it, and
ran up the beach to cast the stern fast off, notwithstanding the master
and others called to him to return, while they were hauling me out of
the water.
I was no sooner in the boat than the attack began by about 200 men; the
unfortunate poor man who had run up the beach was knocked down, and the
stones flew like a shower of shot. Many Indians got hold of the stern
rope, and were near hauling us on shore, and would certainly have done
it if I had not had a knife in my pocket, with which I cut the rope. We
then hauled off to the grapnel, every one being more or less hurt. At
this time I saw five of the natives about the poor man they had killed,
and two of them were beating him about the head with stones in their
hands.
[Sidenote: 1789. May 3]
We had no time to reflect, before, to my surprise, they filled their
canoes with stones, and twelve men came off after us to renew the
attack, which they did so effectually as nearly to disable all of us.
Our grapnel was foul, but Providence here assisted us; the fluke broke,
and we got to our oars, and pulled to sea. They, however, could paddle
round us, so that we were obliged to sustain the attack without being
able to return it, except with such stones as lodged in the boat, and in
this I found we were very inferior to them. We could not close, because
our boat was lumbered and heavy, and that they knew very well: I
therefore adopted the expedient of throwing overboard some cloaths,
which they lost time in picking up; and, as it was now almost dark, they
gave over the attack, and returned towards the shore, leaving us to
reflect on our unhappy situation.
The poor man I lost was John Norton: this was his second voyage with me
as a quarter-master, and his worthy character made me lament his loss
very much. He has left an aged parent, I am told, whom he supported.
[Sidenote: 1789. May 3.]
I once before sustained an attack of a similar nature, with a smaller
number of Europeans, against a multitude of Indians; it was after the
death of captain Cook, on the Morai at Owhyhee, where I was left by
lieutenant King: yet, notwithstanding, I did not conceive that the power
of a man's arm could throw stones, from two to eight pounds weight, with
such force and exactness as these people did. Here unhappily I was
without arms, and the Indians knew it; but it was a fortunate
circumstance that they did not begin to attack us in the cave: in that
case our destruction must have been inevitable, and we should have had
nothing left for it but to die as bravely as we could, fighting close
together; in which I found every one cheerfully disposed to join me.
This appearance of resolution deterred them, supposing they could effect
their purpose without risk after we were in the boat.
Taking this as a sample of the dispositions of the Indians, there was
little reason to expect much benefit if I persevered in my intention of
visiting Poulaho; for I considered their good behaviour hitherto to
proceed from a dread of our fire-arms, which, now knowing us destitute
of, would cease; and, even supposing our lives not in danger, the boat
and every thing we had would most probably be taken from us, and thereby
all hopes precluded of ever being able to return to our native country.
We were now sailing along the west side of the island Tofoa, and my mind
was employed in considering what was best to be done, when I was
solicited by all hands to take them towards home: and, when I told them
no hopes of relief for us remained, but what I might find at New
Holland, until I came to Timor, a distance of full 1200 leagues, where
was a Dutch settlement, but in what part of the island I knew not, they
all agreed to live on one ounce of bread, and a quarter of a pint of
water, per day. Therefore, after examining our stock of provisions, and
recommending this as a sacred promise for ever to their memory, we bore
away across a sea, where the navigation is but little known, in a small
boat, twenty-three feet long from stern to stern, deep laden with
eighteen men; without a chart, and nothing but my own recollection and
general knowledge of the situation of places, assisted by a book of
latitudes and longitudes, to guide us. I was happy, however, to see
every one better satisfied with our situation in this particular than
myself.
[Sidenote: 1789. May 3.]
Our stock of provisions consisted of about one hundred and fifty pounds
of bread, twenty-eight gallons of water, twenty pounds of pork, three
bottles of wine, and five quarts of rum. The difference between this and
the quantity we had on leaving the ship, was principally owing to loss
in the bustle and confusion of the attack. A few cocoa-nuts were in the
boat, and some bread-fruit, but the latter was trampled to pieces.
It was about eight o'clock at night when I bore away under a reefed lug
fore-sail: and, having divided the people into watches, and got the boat
in a little order, we returned God thanks for our miraculous
preservation, and, fully confident of his gracious support, I found my
mind more at ease than for some time past.
At day-break the gale increased; the sun rose very fiery and red, a sure
indication of a severe gale of wind. At eight it blew a violent storm,
and the sea ran very high, so that between the seas the sail was
becalmed, and when on the top of the sea it was too much to have set:
but I was obliged to carry to it, for we were now in very imminent
danger and distress, the sea curling over the stern of the boat, which
obliged us to bale with all our might. A situation more distressing has,
perhaps, seldom been experienced.
Our bread was in bags, and in danger of being spoiled by the wet: to be
starved to death was inevitable, if this could not be prevented: I
therefore began to examine what cloaths there were in the boat, and what
other things could be spared; and, having determined that only two suits
should be kept for each person, the rest was thrown overboard, with some
rope and spare sails, which lightened the boat considerably, and we had
more room to bale the water out. Fortunately the carpenter had a good
chest in the boat, into which I put the bread the first favourable
moment. His tool chest also was cleared, and the tools stowed in the
bottom of the boat, so that this became a second convenience.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 3.]
I now served a tea-spoonful of rum to each person, (for we were very wet
and cold) with a quarter of a bread-fruit, which was scarce eatable, for
dinner; but our engagement was now strictly to be carried into
execution, and I was fully determined to make what provisions I had last
eight weeks, let the daily proportion be ever so small.
At noon I considered my course and distance from Tofoa to be W N W 3/4
W. 86 miles, my latitude 19° 27´ S. I directed my course to the W N W,
that I might get a sight of the islands called Feejee, if they laid in
the direction the natives had pointed out to me.
[Sidenote: Monday 4.]
Monday, 4th May. This day the weather was very severe, it blew a storm
from N E to E S E. The sea ran higher than yesterday, and the fatigue of
baling, to keep the boat from filling, was exceedingly great. We could
do nothing more than keep before the sea; in the course of which the
boat performed so wonderfully well, that I no longer dreaded any danger
in that respect. But among the hardships we were to undergo, that of
being constantly wet was not the least: the nights were very cold, and
at day-light our limbs were so benumbed, that we could scarce find the
use of them. At this time I served a tea-spoonful of rum to each person,
which we all found great benefit from.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 4.]
As I have mentioned before, I determined to keep to the W N W, until I
got more to the northward, for I not only expected to have better
weather, but to see the Feejee Islands, as I have often understood, from
the natives of Annamooka, that they lie in that direction; Captain Cook
likewise considers them to be N W by W from Tongataboo. Just before noon
we discovered a small flat island of a moderate height, bearing W S W, 4
or 5 leagues. I observed in latitude 18° 58´ S; our longitude, by
account, 3° 4´ W from the island Tofoa, having made a N 72° W course,
distance 95 miles, since yesterday noon. I divided five small cocoa-nuts
for our dinner, and every one was satisfied.
[Sidenote: Tuesday 5.]
Tuesday, 5th May. Towards the evening the gale considerably abated. Wind
S E.
A little after noon, other islands appeared, and at a quarter past three
o'clock we could count eight, bearing from S round by the west to N W by
N; those to the south, which were the nearest, being four leagues
distant from us.
I kept my course to the N W by W, between the islands, and at six
o'clock discovered three other small islands to the N W, the westernmost
of them bore N W 1/2 W 7 leagues. I steered to the southward of these
islands, a W N W course for the night, under a reefed sail.
Served a few broken pieces of bread-fruit for supper, and performed
prayers.
The night turned out fair, and, having had tolerable rest, every one
seemed considerably better in the morning, and contentedly breakfasted
on a few pieces of yams that were found in the boat. After breakfast we
prepared a chest for our bread, and it got secured: but unfortunately a
great deal was damaged and rotten; this nevertheless we were glad to
keep for use.
I had hitherto been scarcely able to keep any account of our run; but we
now equipped ourselves a little better, by getting a log-line marked,
and, having practised at counting seconds; several could do it with
some degree of exactness.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 5.]
The islands I have passed lie between the latitude of 19° 5´ S and 18°
19´ S, and, according to my reckoning, from 3° 17´ to 3° 46´ W longitude
from the island Tofoa: the largest may be about six leagues in circuit;
but it is impossible for me to be very exact. To show where they are to
be found again is the most my situation enabled me to do. The sketch I
have made, will give a comparative view of their extent. I believe all
the larger islands are inhabited, as they appeared very fertile.
At noon I observed, in latitude 18° 10´ S, and considered my course and
distance from yesterday noon, N W by W 1/2 W, 94 miles; longitude, by
account, from Tofoa 4° 29´ W.
For dinner, I served some of the damaged bread, and a quarter of a pint
of water.
[Sidenote: Wednesday 6.]
Wednesday, 6th May. Fresh breezes E N E, and fair weather, but very
hazy.
About six o'clock this afternoon I discovered two islands, one bearing W
by S 6 leagues, and the other N W by N 8 leagues; I kept to windward of
the northernmost, and passing it by 10 o'clock, I resumed my course to
the N W and W N W. At day-light in the morning I discovered a number of
other islands from S S E to the W, and round to N E by E; between those
in the N W I determined to pass. At noon a small sandy island or key, 2
miles distant from me, bore from E to S 3/4 W. I had passed ten islands,
the largest of which may be 6 or 8 leagues in circuit. Much larger lands
appeared in the S W and N by W, between which I directed my course.
Latitude observed 17° 17´ S; course since yesterday noon N 50° W;
distance 84 miles; longitude made, by account, 5° 37´ W.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 6.]
Our supper, breakfast, and dinner, consisted of a quarter of a pint of
cocoa-nut milk, and the meat, which did not exceed two ounces to each
person: it was received very contentedly, but we suffered great drought.
I dared not to land, as we had no arms, and were less capable to defend
ourselves than we were at Tofoa.
To keep an account of the boat's run was rendered difficult, from being
constantly wet with the sea breaking over us; but, as we advanced
towards the land, the sea became smoother, and I was enabled to form a
sketch of the islands, which will serve to give a general knowledge of
their extent. Those I have been near are fruitful and hilly, some very
mountainous, and all of a good height.
To our great joy we hooked a fish, but we were miserably disappointed by
its being lost in getting into the boat.
[Sidenote: Thursday 7.]
Thursday, 7th May. Variable weather and cloudy, wind north-easterly, and
calms. I continued my course to the N W, between the islands, which, by
the evening, appeared of considerable extent, woody and mountainous. At
sun-set the southernmost bore from S to S W by W, and the northernmost
from N by W 1/2 W to N E 1/2 E. At six o'clock I was nearly mid-way
between them, and about 6 leagues distant from each shore, when I fell
in with a coral bank, where I had only four feet water, without the
least break on it, or ruffle of the sea to give us warning. I could only
see that it extended about a mile on each side of us; but, as it is
probable that it extends much farther, I have laid it down so in my
sketch.
I now directed my course W by N for the night, and served to each person
an ounce of the damaged bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, for
supper.
[Sidenote: 1789. May 7.]
It may readily be supposed, that our lodgings were very miserable and
confined, and I had only in my power to remedy the latter defect by
putting ourselves at watch and watch; so that one half always sat up
while the other lay down on the boat's bottom, or upon a chest, with
nothing to cover us but the heavens. Our limbs were dreadfully cramped,
for we could not stretch them out, and the nights were so cold, and we
so constantly wet, that after a few hours sleep we could scarce move.
At dawn of day we again discovered land from W S W to W N W, and another
island N N W, the latter a high round lump of but little extent; and I
could see the southern land that I had passed in the night. Being very
wet and cold, I served a spoonful of rum and a morsel of bread for
breakfast.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 7.]
As I advanced towards the land in the west, it appeared in a variety of
forms; some extraordinary high rocks, and the country agreeably
interspersed with high and low land, covered in some places with wood.
Off the N E part lay two small rocky islands, between which and the
island to the N E, 4 leagues apart, I directed my course; but a lee
current very unexpectedly set us very near to the shore, and I could
only get clear of it by rowing, passing close to the reef that
surrounded the rocky isles. We now observed two large sailing canoes
coming swiftly after us along shore, and, being apprehensive of their
intentions, we rowed with some anxiety, being sensible of our weak and
defenceless state. It was now noon, calm and cloudy weather, my latitude
is therefore doubtful to 3 or 4 miles; my course since yesterday noon N
56 W, distance 79 miles; latitude by account, 16° 29´ S, and longitude
by account, from Tofoa, 6° 46´ W. Being constantly wet, it was with the
utmost difficulty I could open a book to write, and I am sensible that
what I have done can only serve to point out where these lands are to
be found again, and give an idea of their extent.
[Sidenote: Friday 8.]
Friday, 8th May. All the afternoon the weather was very rainy, attended
with thunder and lightning. Wind N N E.
Only one of the canoes gained upon us, and by three o'clock in the
afternoon was not more than two miles off, when she gave over chase.
If I may judge from the sail of the vessels, they are the same as at the
Friendly Islands, and the nearness of their situation leaves little room
to doubt of their being the same kind of people. Whether these canoes
had any hostile intention against us is a matter of doubt; perhaps we
might have benefited by an intercourse with them, but in our defenceless
situation it would have been risking too much to make the experiment.
I imagine these to be the islands called Feejee, as their extent,
direction, and distance from the Friendly Islands, answers to the
description given of them by those Islanders. Heavy rain came on at four
o'clock, when every person did their utmost to catch some water, and we
increased our stock to 34 gallons, besides quenching our thirst for the
first time since we had been at sea; but an attendant consequence made
us pass the night very miserably, for, being extremely wet, and no dry
things to shift or cover us, we experienced cold and shiverings scarce
to be conceived. Most fortunately for us, the forenoon turned out fair,
and we stripped and dried our cloaths. The allowance I issued to-day,
was an ounce and a half of pork, a tea-spoonful of rum, half a pint of
cocoa-nut milk, and an ounce of bread. The rum, though so small in
quantity, was of the greatest service. A fishing-line was generally
towing, and we saw great numbers of fish, but could never catch one.
At noon, I observed, in latitude 16° 4´ S, and found I had made a
course, from yesterday noon, N 62° W, distance 62 miles; longitude, by
account, from Tofoa, 7° 42´ W.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 8.]
The land I passed yesterday, and the day before, is a group of islands,
14 or 16 in number, lying between the latitude of 16° 26´ S and 17° 57´
S, and in longitude, by my account, 4° 47´ to 7° 17´ W from Tofoa; three
of these islands are very large, having from 30 to 40 leagues of
sea-coast.
[Sidenote: Saturday 9.]
Saturday, 9th May. Fine weather, and light winds from the N E to E by S.
This afternoon we cleaned out the boat, and it employed us till sun-set
to get every thing dry and in order. Hitherto I had issued the allowance
by guess, but I now got a pair of scales, made with two cocoa-nut
shells; and, having accidentally some pistol-balls in the boat, 25[*] of
which weighed one pound, or 16 ounces, I adopted one, as the proportion
of weight that each person should receive of bread at the times I served
it. I also amused all hands, with describing the situation of New Guinea
and New Holland, and gave them every information in my power, that in
case any accident happened to me, those who survived might have some
idea of what they were about, and be able to find their way to Timor,
which at present they knew nothing of, more than the name, and some not
that.
[*] It weighed 272 grains.
At night I served a quarter of a pint of water, and half an ounce of
bread, for supper. In the morning, a quarter of a pint of cocoa-nut
milk, and some of the decayed bread, for breakfast; and for dinner, I
divided the meat of four cocoa-nuts, with the remainder of the rotten
bread, which was only eatable by such distressed people.
At noon, I observed the latitude to be 15° 47´ S; course since yesterday
N 75° W; distant 64 miles; longitude made, by account, 8° 45´ W.
[Sidenote: 1789 MAY 10.]
[Sidenote: Sunday 10.]
Sunday, May the 10th. The first part of this day fine weather; but after
sun-set it became squally, with hard rain, thunder, and lightning, and a
fresh gale; wind E by S, S E, and S S E.
In the afternoon I got fitted a pair of shrouds for each mast and
contrived a canvass weather cloth round the boat, and raised the
quarters about nine inches, by nailing on the seats of the stern sheets,
which proved of great benefit to us.
About nine o'clock in the evening, the clouds began to gather, and we
had a prodigious fall of rain, with severe thunder and lightning. By
midnight we had caught about twenty gallons of water. Being miserably
wet and cold, I served to each person a tea-spoonful of rum, to enable
them to bear with their distressed situation. The weather continued
extremely bad, and the wind increased; we spent a very miserable night,
without sleep, but such as could be got in the midst of rain. The day
brought us no relief but its light. The sea was constantly breaking over
us, which kept two persons baling; and we had no choice how to steer,
for we were obliged to keep before the waves to avoid filling the boat.
The allowance which I now regularly served to each person was one 25th
of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, at sun-set, eight
in the morning, and at noon. To-day I gave about half an ounce of pork
for dinner, which, though any moderate person would have considered but
a mouthful, was divided into three or four.
The rain abated towards noon, and I observed the latitude to be 15° 17´
S; course N 67° W; distance 78 miles; longitude made 10° W.
[Sidenote: Monday 11.]
Monday, May the 11th. Strong gales from S S E to S E, and very squally
weather, with a high breaking sea, so that we were miserably wet, and
suffered great cold in the night. In the morning at day-break I served
to every person a tea-spoonful of rum, our limbs being so cramped that
we could scarce feel the use of them. Our situation was now extremely
dangerous, the sea frequently running over our stern, which kept us
baling with all our strength.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 11.]
At noon the sun appeared, which gave us as much pleasure as in a
winter's day in England. I issued the 25th of a pound of bread, and a
quarter of a pint of water, as yesterday. Latitude observed 14° 50´ S;
course N 71° W; distance 102 miles; and longitude, by account, 11° 39´
W. from Tofoa.
[Sidenote: Tuesday 12.]
Tuesday, May the 12th. Strong gales at S E, with much rain and dark
dismal weather, moderating towards noon and wind varying to the N E.
Having again experienced a dreadful night, the day showed to me a poor
miserable set of beings full of wants, without any thing to relieve
them. Some complained of a great pain in their bowels, and all of having
but very little use of their limbs. What sleep we got was scarce
refreshing, we being covered with sea and rain. Two persons were obliged
to be always baling the water out of the boat. I served a spoonful of
rum at day-dawn, and the usual allowance of bread and water, for supper,
breakfast, and dinner.
At noon it was almost calm, no sun to be seen, and some of us shivering
with cold. Course since yesterday W by N; distance 89 miles; latitude,
by account, 14° 33´ S; longitude made 13° 9´ W. The direction of my
course is to pass to the northward of the New Hebrides.
[Sidenote: Wednesday 13.]
Wednesday, May the 13th. Very squally weather, wind southerly. As I saw
no prospect of getting our cloaths dried, I recommended it to every one
to strip, and wring them through the salt water, by which means they
received a warmth, that, while wet with rain, they could not have, and
we were less liable to suffer from colds or rheumatic complaints.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 13.]
In the afternoon we saw a kind of fruit on the water, which Mr. Nelson
knew to be the Barringtonia of Forster, and, as I saw the same again in
the morning, and some men of war birds, I was led to believe we were not
far from land.
We continued constantly shipping seas, and baling, and were very wet and
cold in the night; but I could not afford the allowance of rum at
day-break. The twenty-fifth of a pound of bread, and water I served as
usual. At noon I had a sight of the sun, latitude 14° 17´ S; course W by
N 79 miles; longitude made 14° 28´ W.
[Sidenote: Thursday 14.]
Thursday, May the 14th. Fresh breezes and cloudy weather, wind
southerly. Constantly shipping water, and very wet, suffering much cold
and shiverings in the night. Served the usual allowance of bread and
water, three times a day.
At six in the morning, we saw land, from S W by S eight leagues, to N W
by W 3/4 W six leagues, which I soon after found to be four islands, all
of them high and remarkable. At noon discovered a rocky island N W by N
four leagues, and another island W eight leagues, so that the whole were
six in number; the four I had first seen bearing from S 1/2 E to S W by
S; our distance three leagues from the nearest island. My latitude
observed was 13° 29´ S, and longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 15° 49´
W; course since yesterday noon N 63° W; distance 89 miles.
[Sidenote: Friday 15.]
Friday, May the 15th. Fresh gales at S E, and gloomy weather with rain,
and a very high sea; two people constantly employed baling.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 15.]
At four in the afternoon I passed the westernmost island. At one in the
morning I discovered another, bearing W N W, five leagues distance, and
at eight o'clock I saw it for the last time, bearing N E seven leagues.
A number of gannets, boobies, and men of war birds were seen.
These islands lie between the latitude of 13° 16´ S and 14° 10´ S: their
longitude, according to my reckoning, 15° 51´ to 17° 6´ W from the
island Tofoa[*]. The largest island may be twenty leagues in circuit,
the others five or six. The easternmost is the smallest island, and most
remarkable, having a high sugar-loaf hill.
[*] By making a proportional allowance for the error afterwards found in
the dead reckoning, I estimate the longitude of these islands to be from
167° 17´ E to 168° 34´ E from Greenwich.
The sight of these islands served but to increase the misery of our
situation. We were very little better than starving, with plenty in
view; yet to attempt procuring any relief was attended with so much
danger, that prolonging of life, even in the midst of misery, was
thought preferable, while there remained hopes of being able to surmount
our hardships. For my own part, I consider the general run of cloudy and
wet weather to be a blessing of Providence. Hot weather would have
caused us to have died with thirst; and perhaps being so constantly
covered with rain or sea protected us from that dreadful calamity.
As I had nothing to assist my memory, I could not determine whether
these islands were a part of the New Hebrides or not: I believed them
perfectly a new discovery, which I have since found to be the case; but,
though they were not seen either by Monsieur Bougainville or Captain
Cook, they are so nearly in the neighbourhood of the New Hebrides, that
they must be considered as part of the same group. They are fertile, and
inhabited, as I saw smoke in several places.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 16.]
[Sidenote: Saturday 16.]
Saturday, May the 16th. Fresh gales from the S E, and rainy weather. The
night was very dark, not a star to be seen to steer by, and the sea
breaking constantly over us. I found it necessary to act as much as
possible against the southerly winds, to prevent being driven too near
New Guinea; for in general we were forced to keep so much before the
sea, that if we had not, at intervals of moderate weather, steered a
more southerly course, we should inevitably, from a continuance of the
gales, have been thrown in sight of that coast: in which case there
would most probably have been an end to our voyage.
In addition to our miserable allowance of one 25th of a pound of bread,
and a quarter of a pint of water, I issued for dinner about an ounce of
salt pork to each person. I was often solicited for this pork, but I
considered it better to give it in small quantities than to use all at
once or twice, which would have been done if I had allowed it.
At noon I observed, in 13° 33´ S; longitude made from Tofoa, 19° 27´ W;
course N 82° W; distance 101 miles. The sun gave us hopes of drying our
wet cloaths.
[Sidenote: Sunday 17.]
Sunday, May the 17th. The sunshine was but of short duration. We had
strong breezes at S E by S, and dark gloomy weather, with storms of
thunder, lightning, and rain. The night was truly horrible, and not a
star to be seen; so that our steerage was uncertain. At dawn of day I
found every person complaining, and some of them soliciting extra
allowance; but I positively refused it. Our situation was extremely
miserable; always wet, and suffering extreme cold in the night, without
the least shelter from the weather. Being constantly obliged to bale, to
keep the boat from filling, was, perhaps, not to be reckoned an evil, as
it gave us exercise.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 17.]
The little rum I had was of great service to us; when our nights were
particularly distressing, I generally served a tea-spoonful or two to
each person: and it was always joyful tidings when they heard of my
intentions.
At noon a water-spout was very near on board of us. I issued an ounce of
pork, in addition to the allowance of bread and water; but before we
began to eat, every person stript and wrung their cloaths through the
sea-water, which we found warm and refreshing. Course since yesterday
noon W S W; distance 100 miles; latitude, by account, 14° 11´ S, and
longitude made 21° 3´ W.
[Sidenote: Monday 18.]
Monday, May the 18th. Fresh gales with rain, and a dark dismal night,
wind S E; the sea constantly breaking over us, and nothing but the wind
and sea to direct our steerage. I now fully determined to make New
Holland, to the southward of Endeavour straits, sensible that it was
necessary to preserve such a situation as would make a southerly wind a
fair one; that I might range the reefs until an opening should be found
into smooth water, and we the sooner be able to pick up some
refreshments.
In the morning the rain abated, when we stripped, and wrung our cloaths
through the sea-water, as usual, which refreshed us wonderfully. Every
person complained of violent pain in their bones: I was only surprised
that no one was yet laid up. Served one 25th of a pound of bread, and a
quarter of a pint of water, at supper, breakfast, and dinner, as
customary.
At noon I deduced my situation, by account, for we had no glimpse of the
sun, to be in latitude 14° 52´ S; course since yesterday noon W S W 106
miles; longitude made from Tofoa 22° 45´ W. Saw many boobies and
noddies, a sign of being in the neighbourhood of land.
[Sidenote: 1789. May 19. Tuesday 19.]
Tuesday, May the 19th. Fresh gales at E N E, with heavy rain, and dark
gloomy weather, and no sight of the sun. We past this day miserably wet
and cold, covered with rain and sea, from which we had no relief, but at
intervals by pulling off our cloaths and wringing them through the sea
water. In the night we had very severe lightning, but otherwise it was
so dark that we could not see each other. The morning produced many
complaints on the severity of the weather, and I would gladly have
issued my allowance of rum, if it had not appeared to me that we were to
suffer much more, and that it was necessary to preserve the little I
had, to give relief at a time we might be less able to bear such
hardships; but, to make up for it, I served out about half an ounce of
pork to each person, with the common allowance of bread and water, for
dinner. All night and day we were obliged to bale without intermission.
At noon it was very bad weather and constant rain; latitude, by account,
14° 37´ S; course since yesterday N 81° W; distance 100 miles; longitude
made 24° 30´ W.
[Sidenote: Wednesday 20.]
Wednesday, May the 20th. Fresh breezes E N E with constant rain; at
times a deluge. Always baling.
[Sidenote: 1789. May 20.]
At dawn of day, some of my people seemed half dead: our appearances were
horrible; and I could look no way, but I caught the eye of some one in
distress. Extreme hunger was now too evident, but no one suffered from
thirst, nor had we much inclination to drink, that desire, perhaps,
being satisfied through the skin. The little sleep we got was in the
midst of water, and we constantly awoke with severe cramps and pains in
our bones. This morning I served about two tea-spoonfuls of rum to each
person, and the allowance of bread and water, as usual. At noon the sun
broke out, and revived every one. I found we were in latitude 14° 49´
S; longitude made 25° 46´ W; course S 88° W; distance 75 miles.
[Sidenote: Thursday 21.]
Thursday, May the 21st. Fresh gales, and heavy showers of rain. Wind E N
E.
Our distresses were now very great, and we were so covered with rain and
salt water, that we could scarcely see. Sleep, though we longed for it,
afforded no comfort: for my own part, I almost lived without it: we
suffered extreme cold, and every one dreaded the approach of night.
About two o'clock in the morning we were overwhelmed with a deluge of
rain. It fell so heavy that we were afraid it would fill the boat, and
were obliged to bale with all our might. At dawn of day, I served a
large allowance of rum. Towards noon the rain abated and the sun shone,
but we were miserably cold and wet, the sea breaking so constantly over
us, that, notwithstanding the heavy rain, we had not been able to add to
our stock of fresh water. The usual allowance of one 25th of a pound of
bread and water was served at evening, morning, and noon. Latitude, by
observation, 14° 29´ S, and longitude made, by account, from Tofoa, 27°
25´ W; course, since yesterday noon, N 78° W, 99 miles. I now considered
myself on a meridian with the east part of New Guinea, and about 65
leagues distant from the coast of New Holland.
[Sidenote: Friday 22.]
Friday, May the 22nd. Strong gales from E S E to S S E, a high sea, and
dark dismal night.
Our situation this day was extremely calamitous. We were obliged to take
the course of the sea, running right before it, and watching with the
utmost care, as the least error in the helm would in a moment have been
our destruction. The sea was continually breaking all over us; but, as
we suffered not such cold as when wet with the rain, I only served the
common allowance of bread and water.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 22.]
At noon it blew very hard, and the foam of the sea kept running over our
stern and quarters; I however got propped up, and made an observation of
the latitude, in 14° 17´ S; course N 85° W; distance 130 miles;
longitude made 29° 38´ west.
[Sidenote: Saturday 23.]
Saturday, May the 23d. Strong gales with very hard squalls, and rain;
wind S E, and S S E.
The misery we suffered this day exceeded the preceding. The night was
dreadful. The sea flew over us with great force, and kept us baling with
horror and anxiety. At dawn of day I found every one in a most
distressed condition, and I now began to fear that another such a night
would put an end to the lives of several who seemed no longer able to
support such sufferings. Every one complained of severe pains in their
bones; but these were alleviated, in some degree, by an allowance of two
tea-spoonfuls of rum; after drinking which, having wrung our cloaths,
and taken our breakfast of bread and water, we became a little
refreshed.
Towards noon it became fair weather; but with very little abatement of
the gale, and the sea remained equally high. With great difficulty I
observed the latitude to be 13° 44´ S; course N 74° W; distance 116
miles since yesterday; longitude made 31° 32´ W from Tofoa.
[Sidenote: Sunday 24.]
Sunday, May the 24th. Fresh gales and fine weather; wind S S E and S.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 24.]
Towards the evening the weather looked much better, which rejoiced all
hands, so that they eat their scanty allowance with more satisfaction
than for some time past. The night also was fair; but, being always wet
with the sea, we suffered much from the cold. A fine morning, I had the
pleasure to see, produce some chearful countenances. Towards noon the
weather improved, and, the first time for 15 days past, we found a
little warmth from the sun. We stripped, and hung our cloaths up to dry,
which were by this time become so thread-bare, that they would not keep
out either wet or cold.
At noon I observed in latitude 13° 33´ S; longitude, by account, from
Tofoa 33° 28´ W; course N 84° W; distance 114 miles. With the usual
allowance of bread and water for dinner, I served an ounce of pork to
each person.
[Sidenote: Monday 25.]
Monday, May the 25th. Fresh gales and fair weather. Wind S S E.
This afternoon we had many birds about us, which are never seen far from
land, such as boobies and noddies.
[Sidenote: Allowance lessened.]
About three o'clock the sea began to run fair, and we shipped but little
water, I therefore determined to know the exact quantity of bread I had
left; and on examining found, according to my present issues, sufficient
for 29 days allowance. In the course of this time I hoped to be at
Timor; but, as that was very uncertain, and perhaps after all we might
be obliged to go to Java, I determined to proportion my issues to six
weeks. I was apprehensive that this would be ill received, and that it
would require my utmost resolution to enforce it; for, small as the
quantity was which I intended to take away, for our future good, yet it
might appear to my people like robbing them of life, and some, who were
less patient than their companions, I expected would very ill brook it.
I however represented it so essentially necessary to guard against
delays in our voyage by contrary winds, or other causes, promising to
enlarge upon the allowance as we got on, that it was readily agreed to.
I therefore fixed, that every person should receive one 25th of a pound
of bread for breakfast, and one 25th of a pound for dinner; so that by
omitting the proportion for supper, I had 43 days allowance.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 25.]
At noon some noddies came so near to us, that one of them was caught by
hand. This bird is about the size of a small pigeon. I divided it, with
its entrails, into 18 portions, and by the method of, Who shall have
this[*]? it was distributed with the allowance of bread and water for
dinner, and eat up bones and all, with salt water for sauce. I observed
the latitude 13° 32´ S; longitude made 35° 19´ W; and course N 89° W;
distance 108 miles.
[*] One person turns his back on the object that is to be divided:
another then points separately to the portions, at each of them asking
aloud, "Who shall have this?" to which the first answers by naming
somebody. This impartial method of division gives every man an equal
chance of the best share.
[Sidenote: Tuesday 26.]
Tuesday, May the 26th. Fresh gales at S S E, and fine weather.
In the evening we saw several boobies flying so near to us, that we
caught one of them by hand. This bird is as large as a good duck; like
the noddy, it has received its name from seamen, for suffering itself to
be caught on the masts and yards of ships. They are the most presumptive
proofs of being in the neighbourhood of land of any sea-fowl we are
acquainted with. I directed the bird to be killed for supper, and the
blood to be given to three of the people who were the most distressed
for want of food. The body, with the entrails, beak, and feet, I divided
into 18 shares, and with an allowance of bread, which I made a merit of
granting, we made a good supper, compared with our usual fare.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 26.]
In the morning we caught another booby, so that Providence seemed to be
relieving our wants in a very extraordinary manner. Towards noon we
passed a great many pieces of the branches of trees, some of which
appeared to have been no long time in the water. I had a good
observation for the latitude, and found my situation to be in 13° 41´
S; my longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 37° 13´ W; course S 85° W, 112
miles. Every person was now overjoyed at the addition to their dinner,
which I distributed as I had done in the evening; giving the blood to
those who were the most in want of food.
To make our bread a little savoury we frequently dipped it in salt
water; but for my own part I generally broke mine into small pieces, and
eat it in my allowance of water, out of a cocoa-nut shell, with a spoon,
economically avoiding to take too large a piece at a time, so that I was
as long at dinner as if it had been a much more plentiful meal.
[Sidenote: Wednesday 27.]
Wednesday, May the 27th. Fresh breezes south-easterly, and fine weather.
The weather was now serene, but unhappily we found ourselves unable to
bear the sun's heat; many of us suffering a languor and faintness, which
made life indifferent. We were, however, so fortunate as to catch two
boobies to-day; their stomachs contained several flying-fish and small
cuttlefish, all of which I saved to be divided for dinner.
We passed much drift wood, and saw many birds; I therefore did not
hesitate to pronounce that we were near the reefs of New Holland, and
assured every one I would make the coast without delay, in the parallel
we were in, and range the reef till I found an opening, through which we
might get into smooth water, and pick up some supplies. From my
recollection of captain Cook's survey of this coast, I considered the
direction of it to be N W, and I was therefore satisfied that, with the
wind to the southward of E, I could always clear any dangers.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 27.]
At noon I observed in latitude 13° 26´ S; course since yesterday N 82°
W; distance 109 miles; longitude made 39° 4´ W. After writing my
account, I divided the two birds with their entrails, and the contents
of their maws, into 18 portions, and, as the prize was a very valuable
one, it was divided as before, by calling out Who shall have this? so
that to-day, with the allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread at
breakfast, and another at dinner, with the proportion of water, I was
happy to see that every person thought he had feasted.
[Sidenote: Thursday 28.]
Thursday, May the 28th. Fresh breezes and fair weather; wind E S E and
E.
In the evening we saw a gannet; and the clouds remained so fixed in the
west, that I had little doubt of our being near to New Holland; and
every person, after taking his allowance of water for supper, began to
divert himself with conversing on the probability of what we should
find.
At one in the morning the person at the helm heard the sound of
breakers, and I no sooner lifted up my head, than I saw them close under
our lee, not more than a quarter of a mile distant from us. I
immediately hauled on a wind to the N N E, and in ten minutes time we
could neither see nor hear them.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 28.]
I have already mentioned my reason for making New Holland so far to the
southward; for I never doubted of numerous openings in the reef, through
which I could have access to the shore: and, knowing the inclination of
the coast to be to the N W, and the wind mostly to the southward of E, I
could with ease range such a barrier of reefs till I should find a
passage, which now became absolutely necessary, without a moment's loss
of time. The idea of getting into smooth water, and finding
refreshments, kept my people's spirits up: their joy was very great
after we had got clear of the breakers, to which we had been much
nearer than I thought was possible to be before we saw them.
In the morning, at day-light, I bore away again for the reefs, and saw
them by nine o'clock. The sea broke furiously over every part, and I had
no sooner got near to them, than the wind came at E, so that we could
only lie along the line of the breakers, within which we saw the water
so smooth, that every person already anticipated the heart-felt
satisfaction he would receive, as soon as we could get within them. But
I now found we were embayed, for I could not lie clear with my sails,
the wind having backed against us, and the sea set in so heavy towards
the reef that our situation was become dangerous. We could effect but
little with the oars, having scarce strength to pull them; and it was
becoming every minute more and more probable that we should be obliged
to attempt pushing over the reef, in case we could not pull off. Even
this I did not despair of effecting with success, when happily we
discovered a break in the reef, about one mile from us, and at the same
time an island of a moderate height within it, nearly in the same
direction, bearing W 1/2 N. I entered the passage with a strong stream
running to the westward; and found it about a quarter of a mile broad,
with every appearance of deep water.
On the outside, the reef inclined to the N E for a few miles, and from
thence to the N W; on the south side of the entrance, it inclined to the
S S W as far as I could see it; and I conjecture that a similar passage
to this which we now entered, may be found near the breakers that I
first discovered, which are 23 miles S of this channel.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 28.]
I did not recollect what latitude Providential channel[*] lies in, but
I considered it to be within a few miles of this, which is situate in
12° 51´ S latitude.
[*] Providential Channel is in 12° 34´ S, longitude 143° 33´ E.
Being now happily within the reefs, and in smooth water, I endeavoured
to keep near them to try for fish; but the tide set us to the N W; I
therefore bore away in that direction, and, having promised to land on
the first convenient spot we could find, all our past hardships seemed
already to be forgotten.
At noon I had a good observation, by which our latitude was 12° 46´ S,
whence the foregoing situations may be considered as determined with
some exactness. The island first seen bore W S W five leagues. This,
which I have called the island Direction, will in fair weather always
shew the channel, from which it bears due W, and may be seen as soon as
the reefs, from a ship's mast-head: it lies in the latitude of 12° 51´
S. These, however, are marks too small for a ship to hit, unless it can
hereafter be ascertained that passages through the reef are numerous
along the coast, which I am inclined to think they are, and then there
would be little risk if the wind was not directly on the shore.
My longitude, made by dead reckoning, from the island Tofoa to our
passage through the reef, is 40° 10´ W. Providential channel, I imagine,
must lie very nearly under the same meridian with our passage; by which
it appears we had out-run our reckoning 1° 9´.
We now returned God thanks for his gracious protection, and with much
content took our miserable allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread, and
a quarter of a pint of water, for dinner.
[Sidenote: Friday 29.]
Friday, May the 29th. Moderate breezes and fine weather, wind E S E.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.]
As we advanced within the reefs, the coast began to shew itself very
distinctly, with a variety of high and low land; some parts of which
were covered with wood. In our way towards the shore we fell in with a
point of a reef, which is connected with that towards the sea, and here
I came to a grapnel, and tried to catch fish, but had no success. The
island Direction now bore S three or four leagues. Two islands lay about
four miles to the W by N, and appeared eligible for a resting-place, if
nothing more; but on my approach to the first I found it only a heap of
stones, and its size too inconsiderable to shelter the boat. I therefore
proceeded to the next, which was close to it and towards the main,
where, on the N W side, I found a bay and a fine sandy point to land at.
Our distance was about a quarter of a mile from a projecting part of the
main, bearing from S W by S, to N N W 3/4 W. I now landed to examine if
there were any signs of the natives being near us; but though I
discovered some old fire-places, I saw nothing to alarm me for our
situation during the night. Every one was anxious to find something to
eat, and I soon heard that there were oysters on the rocks, for the tide
was out; but it was nearly dark, and only a few could be gathered. I
determined therefore to wait till the morning, to know how to proceed,
and I consented that one half of us should sleep on shore, and the other
in the boat. We would gladly have made a fire, but, as we could not
accomplish it, we took our rest for the night, which happily was calm
and undisturbed.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.]
The dawn of day brought greater strength and spirits to us than I
expected; for, notwithstanding every one was very weak, there appeared
strength sufficient remaining to make me conceive the most favourable
hopes of our being able to surmount the difficulties we might yet have
to encounter.
As soon as I saw that there were not any natives immediately near us, I
sent out parties in search of supplies, while others were putting the
boat in order, that I might be ready to go to sea in case any unforeseen
cause might make it necessary. The first object of this work, that
demanded our attention, was the rudder: one of the gudgeons had come
out, in the course of the night, and was lost. This, if it had happened
at sea, would probably have been the cause of our perishing, as the
management of the boat could not have been so nicely preserved as these
very heavy seas required. I had often expressed my fears of this
accident, and, that we might be prepared for it, had taken the
precaution to have grummets fixed on each quarter of the boat for oars;
but even our utmost readiness in using them, I fear, would not have
saved us. It appears, therefore, a providential circumstance, that it
happened at this place, and was in our power to remedy the defect; for
by great good luck we found a large staple in the boat that answered the
purpose.
The parties were now returned, highly rejoiced at having found plenty of
oysters and fresh water. I also had made a fire, by help of a small
magnifying glass, that I always carried about me, to read off the
divisions of my sextants; and, what was still more fortunate, among the
few things which had been thrown into the boat and saved, was a piece of
brimstone and a tinder-box, so that I secured fire for the future.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.]
One of my people had been so provident as to bring away with him a
copper pot: it was by being in possession of this article that I was
enabled to make a proper use of the supply we found, for, with a
mixture of bread and a little pork, I made a stew that might have been
relished by people of more delicate appetites, of which each person
received a full pint.
The general complaints of disease among us, were a dizziness in the
head, great weakness of the joints, and violent tenesmus, most of us
having had no evacuation by stool since we left the ship. I had
constantly a severe pain at my stomach; but none of our complaints were
alarming; on the contrary, every one retained marks of strength, that,
with a mind possessed of any fortitude, could bear more fatigue than I
hoped we had to undergo in our voyage to Timor.
As I would not allow the people to expose themselves to the heat of the
sun, it being near noon, every one took his allotment of earth, shaded
by the bushes, for a short sleep.
The oysters we found grew so fast to the rocks that it was with
difficulty they could be broke off, and at last we discovered it to be
the most expeditious way to open them where they were found. They were
very sizeable, and well tasted, and gave us great relief. To add to this
happy circumstance, in the hollow of the land there grew some wire
grass, which indicated a moist situation. On forcing a stick, about
three feet long, into the ground, we found water, and with little
trouble dug a well, which produced as much as we were in need of. It was
very good, but I could not determine if it was a spring or not. Our
wants made it not necessary to make the well deep, for it flowed as fast
as we emptied it; which, as the soil was apparently too loose to retain
water from the rains, renders it probable to be a spring. It lies about
200 yards to the S E of a point in the S W part of the island.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.]
I found evident signs of the natives resorting to this island; for,
besides fire-places, I saw two miserable wigwams, having only one side
loosely covered. We found a pointed stick, about three feet long, with a
slit in the end of it, to sling stones with, the same as the natives of
Van Diemen's land use.
The track of some animal was very discernible, and Mr. Nelson agreed
with me that it was the Kanguroo; but how these animals can get from the
main I know not, unless brought over by the natives to breed, that they
may take them with more ease, and render a supply of food certain to
them; as on the continent the catching of them may be precarious, or
attended with great trouble, in so large an extent of country.
The island may be about two miles in circuit; it is a high lump of rocks
and stones covered with wood; but the trees are small, the soil, which
is very indifferent and sandy, being barely sufficient to produce them.
The trees that came within our knowledge were the manchineal and a
species of purow: also some palm-trees, the tops of which we cut down,
and the soft interior part or heart of them was so palatable that it
made a good addition to our mess. Mr. Nelson discovered some fern-roots,
which I thought might be good roasted, as a substitute for bread, but it
proved a very poor one: it however was very good in its natural state to
allay thirst, and on that account I directed a quantity to be collected
to take into the boat. Many pieces of cocoa-nut shells and husk were
found about the shore, but we could find no cocoa-nut trees, neither did
I see any like them on the main.
[Sidenote: 1789. MAY 29.]