_Paris, 7th April, 1809._
THE SECRETARY OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE ENCOURAGEMENT OF NATIONAL
INDUSTRY, TO MR. APPERT, PROPRIETOR AT MASSY.
_Sir_,
_I have the pleasure to transmit to you a copy of the Report made to
the_ Société d’Encouragement, _by Messrs. Guyton-Morveau, Parmentier,
and Bouriat, on your preserved vegetable and animal substances.
Nothing can be added to the judgment passed by the Committee upon
your discovery. They announce, that it has not been in their power to
make any experiments, either sufficiently exact, or continued for a
sufficient length of time, to enable them to verify to what extent
the substances prepared by you may be preserved; but what they have
themselves observed, suffices to enable them to form an opinion to
which they were previously disposed, by the numerous and decisive
testimonies which attest your success._
_The Society are of opinion that they are rendering a service to the
country and humanity, when they make known so useful a discovery with
the eulogies which it merits. Their desire will be accomplished, should
their suffrage determine the public to make use of your productions,
and so contribute to confer upon you the just rewards of your labours._
_Accept, Sir, the assurance of the perfect respect with which I have
the honour to salute you._
_MATH. MONTMORENCY_,
_Secretary, &c._
EXTRACT FROM THE PROCÈS-VERBAL OF THE SITTING OF THE COUNCIL OF
ADMINISTRATION, WEDNESDAY, 15TH MARCH, 1809.
_Report made by Mr. Bouriat, in the name of a Special Committee,
on Vegetable and Animal Substances, preserved by_ MR. APPERT.
The council referred to a committee, consisting of Messrs.
Guyton-Morveau, Parmentier, and myself, the examination of vegetable
and animal substances presented by Mr. Appert, and preserved by his
process, for more than eight months.
These substances were,
1. _Pot-au-feu_ [a standing French dish of boiled meat, fowls, &c.]
2. _Consommé_, gravy.
3. Milk.
4. Whey.
5. Green Peas.
6. Small Windsor Beans.
7. Cherries.
8. Apricots.
9. Currant Juice.
10. Raspberries.
Each of these articles was contained in an earthen vessel hermetically
sealed, the cork being fastened with iron wire and pitched. Proceeding
methodically in our enquiry:
We found in the _pot-au-feu_ a jelly tolerably rich, with a piece of
beef and two pieces of fowl in the middle. Warming the whole with care,
to a suitable degree, the soup was found good, and the meat which was
separated from it, very tender, and of an agreeable flavour.
The _consommé_ appeared to us to be excellent; and though prepared
fifteen months before, there was scarcely any discernible difference
between its then state, and what it would have been, if made fresh the
same day.
The _milk_ was found to be of a yellowish colour, resembling that of
colostrum or beestings, more thick, as well as sweeter and more savoury
than the ordinary milk: a superiority it derives from the concentration
it has undergone. It may be affirmed that milk of this kind, though
prepared nine months before, may supply the place of the greater part
of the cream sold at Paris. What however will appear more extraordinary
is, that this same milk having been put into a pint bottle which
was uncorked a month before, to take out a part of it, and re-corked
afterwards with little care, was also preserved, having undergone
scarcely any change. At first it appeared to have somewhat thickened,
but a slight shaking was sufficient to bring back its ordinary
liquidity. I present it here in the same bottle, that you may convince
yourselves of a fact, which I should have had a difficulty to believe,
if I had heard of it only, without having the evidence before me.
The _whey_ which we afterwards examined, presented some singular
appearances not less astonishing. It had all the transparency of whey
recently prepared. Its colour was deeper, it had a stronger taste,
and it was somewhat thicker. It underwent a change also with less
rapidity, having been exposed to the air at the end of a fortnight; for
a bottle opened six weeks ago, occasionally shaken, and ill corked, did
not begin to lose its transparency till the end of a fortnight. Its
surface at the end of more than a month was covered with a somewhat
thick mouldiness, which when carefully taken off, left the remainder
still possessing the flavour of whey.
The _green peas_ and the _Windsor beans_, boiled with the attention
enjoined by Mr. Appert, furnished two excellent dishes, which the
remoteness of the usual season of such vegetables appeared to render
still more finely flavoured and agreeable.
Whole _cherries_, and _apricots_ cut in quarters preserved a great
part of the flavour they had when gathered. It is true Mr. Appert was
obliged to gather them before they were quite ripe, lest they should
lose too much of their figure in the glass jars in which they were
preserved.
The _currant_ and _raspberry juice_ appeared to us to enjoy almost
all their qualities. We found the aroma of the raspberry perfectly
preserved, as well as the somewhat aromatic acid of the currant. Their
colour only was a little faded.
Such were the results on our examining the substances prepared
according to Mr. Appert’s process, more than eight months, and some
of them a year, and fifteen months before; for instance, the whey.
We could only receive his statement as to the time of the previous
preparation of these articles, as they had been deposited but two
months with the Society; but even this shorter period is sufficient to
give us a favourable opinion of the author’s process. We are the more
justified in relying on Mr. Appert’s declarations, as persons highly
worthy of credit, have by their own experiments, convinced themselves
that similar substances may be preserved for more than a year. Mr.
Appert forwarded to the Council mere specimens of the articles I have
enumerated; but he prepares a still greater variety of alimentary
substances. He did not communicate his process to us.
_Observations._
The art of better preserving vegetables and animal substances in the
state in which nature produces them, has been to a considerable degree
the object both of pharmacy and chymistry. To attain that end various
means have been employed. Desiccation, ardent spirits, acids and oils,
saccharine and saline substances, &c. have been made use of; but it
must be confessed that these means cause many productions to lose a
part of their properties, or otherwise modifies them, so that their
aroma and flavour are no longer to be recognized. From this point of
view, the process of Mr. Appert appears to us preferable, if without
having recourse to desiccation he adds no extraneous substance to that
he wishes to preserve. There is every reason to believe that his method
is by so much the better, as the substances on which he operates are
more capable of sustaining so high a temperature without a sensible
change.
Several persons of acknowledged merit, have by desire of the prefects
in different Seaports, examined Mr. Appert’s preparations. It is only
necessary to read the reports made by these well-informed persons, in
order to be convinced of the excellence of the author’s process.
At Brest, for instance, on the 14th of April 1807, the committee named
by the Maritime Prefect express themselves as follows:
“It is demonstrated by every thing just said, that all the alimentary
substances, in number eighteen, embarked in the _Stationnaire_,
December 12, 1806, and disembarked April 13, 1807, and which were
examined by a committee for that especial purpose, under the presidency
of a commissary of marine belonging to the hospitals, underwent no
change while they were on board, and that they were in the same state
at the several periods of the embarkation and disembarkation.
“It may be added that Mr. Appert’s process for the preservation of the
articles examined, has been followed by all the success he had promised
himself; and that with improvement, which he considers as very easy,
and finding means to diminish the number of vessels employed, these
provisions would offer great advantages on board his majesty’s and
other vessels.”
The Committee nominated at Bourdeaux by the Prefect of the Department,
assert, positively:
“The detail which we have just given, on the objects prepared by Mr.
Appert, will point out to you that they were in a state of perfect
preservation; that the means made use of do not depend on the addition
of extraneous substances, and that these means are founded on a process
invented or improved by Mr. Appert, which do not destroy the perfume or
flavour of the subjects submitted to their influence.”
Rear-Admiral Allemand wrote a letter to Mr. Appert, of which I subjoin
a copy.
“I communicated your letter, Sir, to the Captains, under my orders,
and they tasted the day before yesterday the vegetables I purchased
of you fourteen months ago, one bottle of which my _maître-d’hôtel_
had by accident left in the store-room. As green peas and beans are
just beginning to be gathered, the officers actually believed your
preserved vegetables to be fresh, so well had you succeeded; they wish
to purchase a large quantity of them, as well as soup, fruit, and meat
in bottles. I shall also take a considerable quantity for myself at the
end of the season.
“I am so well persuaded, Sir, of the infinite advantage which would
attend the providing a quantity of articles for the use of the sick on
board, that if his Excellency, the Minister of the Marine and Colonies,
should do me the honour to ask for my opinion, I shall not hesitate to
confirm this my opinion, as well for the sake of the government and
of the sick, as of yourself. I shall take the earliest opportunity
to speak with him on the subject. Accept the assurance of my high
consideration.
“On board the Imperial Ship _le Majestueux_, at anchor off the _Ile
d’Aix_.
(Signed) “ALLEMAND.”
“_7th March, 1807._”
_Copy of a Letter of Vice-Admiral Martin, Maritime Prefect, to Mr.
Appert, at Brest._
“I have received, Sir, your letter of the 27th of last April. According
to your desire, I have addressed to his Excellency, the Minister of
the Marine and Colonies, a report of the examination of a variety of
provisions prepared according to your process.
“I shall neglect no opportunity of making known a discovery which
appears to be as useful to the State as it is interesting to seamen. I
have the honour to salute you.
“The vice admiral, maritime-prefect,
(Signed) “MARTIN.”
“_Rochefort, 22d May, 1807._”
It is apparent from these reports, which appear to be almost the same,
though made in towns remote from each other, at different periods and
by different persons, that the process of Mr. Appert is as certain as
it is useful. It affords the means of enjoying throughout the empire,
during the whole year, and with great convenience, the productions
which belong alone to a part of it, without fearing that they may
have undergone any change by their having been transported to a great
distance, or from the remoteness of the season of their growth. Merely
under this point of view, the advantage appears to be great: and it has
not escaped the notice of the poets and amiable writers, who, to amuse
themselves, sing the art of cookery. Mr. Appert has repeatedly received
from them the most flattering and highly deserved praises.[T]
[T] These _poëtes et littérateurs amiables qui chantent pour s’amuser_,
are _M. de Berchoux_, author of the charming poem _la Gastronomie_,
and the authors of the _Almanac des Gourmands_, an annual publication
written with infinite wit and humour, and which enjoys a higher
reputation, and more extensive popularity, than any other work of taste
published in France, since the revolution. For an account of both these
productions the reader is referred to the LITERARY PANORAMA, Vol. VII.
pp. 661, and 719. The Almanac of Gluttons, if it be not the standard of
poetic genius in _imperial_ France, is at least an indication of the
direction which talent is now taking: a direction, which the laws and
literary police of the Napoleon government will not fail effectually to
maintain. T.
The process of this manufacturer is not less valuable in the sparing
of sugar in the use of fruit; for without the aid of that article, it
preserves the juice till the moment of its consumption, when only a
small portion needs to be added to the juice; double the quantity would
have been necessary to _preserve_ the same fruit. It may be further
added that the flavour and aroma of substances are better preserved by
Mr. Appert’s process, than by the decoctions usually made use of in
order to preserve them with sugar. This will be considered as a very
great advantage, when we reflect how prodigious a quantity of this
colonial produce is every year employed to preserve the different kinds
of fruit and their juices. The establishment of Mr. Appert has not
perhaps been duly appreciated by rich capitalists, who might have given
it that desirable extension which it will only gradually receive, if
the author is abandoned to his own resources.
The success he has already met with, increases his zeal and makes him
carry his views further. He promises to transmit, unchanged, the most
agreeable productions of our soil beyond the Line. He purposes to
multiply the enjoyments of the Indian, the Mexican, and the African,
as well as of the Laplander, and to transport into France from remote
regions, an infinity of substances which we should desire to receive in
their natural state.
The experiments already made on board several vessels, prove that
the sick among a crew will be well satisfied with Mr. Appert’s
preparations, which furnish them with the means of procuring, when
necessary, meat and broth of a good quality, milk, acid fruits, and
even anti-scorbutic juices; for Mr. Appert assures us he is able to
preserve these also.
With respect to the embarkation of meat necessary for a whole crew
on a long voyage, a slight difficulty seems to lie in the requisite
multiplicity of bottles. But Mr. Appert will, without doubt, find means
to obviate this inconvenience, by the choice of vessels less fragile
and of a larger size.
Our opinion of the substances preserved by Mr. Appert, and transmitted
to our examination, is, that they were all of a good quality, that they
may be made use of without any inconvenience; and that the Society
owes great praise to the author for having so far advanced the art of
preserving vegetable and animal substances. We are happy to render this
homage to the zeal and disinterestedness with which he has laboured to
attain his end.
When the relations of commerce shall be rendered more easy, Mr. Appert
will require nothing beyond his own talents and perseverance, to
establish a branch of commerce as useful to himself as to his country;
but at the present moment his fellow citizens cannot better recompense
his labours, than by employing the produce of his manufactures.
_Note._--Mr. Appert desires to preserve his connection with the
Society, in order to inform them of the result of the fresh exertions
to which he is about to devote himself, on the invitation of your
committee.
* * * * *
The council concurring in opinion with its committee, adopts the
present report and its conclusions, and resolves that it shall be
inserted in the minutes of the Society.
(Signed) GUYTON-MORVEAU,
PARMENTIER,
BOURIAT.
(A true copy.)
MATH. MONTMORENCY, Secretary.