SECTION IV.

Watlinga-Stræt.—South England.—Legends about the Danes.—The

graves of Canute the Great and Hardicanute.

In the heart of the city of London, near St. Paul’s Cathedral, is a

street called “Watling Street.” Anciently it was connected with the

great high road of the same name (or more properly Watlinga-Stræt),

which had been made by the Britons from the Channel and London through

the midst of England to the north-east of Wales, Chester, and the Irish

Channel. On account of the importance of this road, as communicating

with the interior of England as well as with Ireland, the Romans

improved it. But, like most of the high roads of ancient times, it was

carried over heights, with the constant view of avoiding streams which

would require the erection of bridges. It followed, as nearly as

possible, the natural division of the watercourse in England, or the

ridge of the land watershed whence rivers take their course in all

directions.

About the year 1000 this road not only showed the natural boundary

between the northern and southern river-valleys, but likewise indicated

in the clearest possible manner a political boundary between the

inhabitants of different extraction, and different manners and customs.

The districts to the north and east of this road belonged for the most

part to the so-called “Dena-lagu,” or “Dane-lagh,” that is, the Dane’s

community (from _lag_, whence in the north itself, in Norway, for

instance, _Thröndelagen_, and in Sweden, _Roslagen_). For here the

Danes, and other conquerors or immigrants of Scandinavian origin, had

gradually subdued and expelled the Anglo-Saxons, and here the Danish

laws, habits, and customs, chiefly prevailed.

In the districts to the south, on the contrary, the repulsed

Anglo-Saxons had concentrated the last remnants of their former power. A

great number of wealthy and leading Danes were indeed also settled here,

either in the country, or, with a view to commerce, in the principal

towns on the coast; as in Winchester, which, like London, long had its

“Husting;” Exeter, where a church was in later times dedicated to St.

Olave; and Bristol. But, out of London, the Danes scarcely formed at

that time any really strong and united power in the south of England.

The predominating people was the Anglo-Saxon, and in general the old

Saxon characteristics had been preserved.

To the south of Watlinga-Stræt, which had already often been agreed upon

between the Danish conquerors and the Anglo-Saxon kings as the boundary

between the Danish and Anglo-Saxon kingdoms, Edmund Ironsides received

his share of England by agreement with Canute. It was in these districts

that the Anglo-Saxon kings had always found their truest and most

numerous adherents, and they had therefore generally been the theatre of

the more important battles between the Anglo-Saxons and the Danes. Near

Wareham, in Dorsetshire, Alfred purchased peace with a host of the

latter, who swore on their armlets to observe it; but, though this oath

was regarded by the Danes as very sacred, they are said to have broken

it immediately. During his exile Alfred concealed himself for a long

time at Athelney, in Somersetshire; and near Eddington he again beat the

Danes. In the neighbourhood of Athelney, Alfred also induced Gudrun

(Gorm), the king of the Danish Vikings, to receive baptism. The

oppressed inhabitants were in these parts scarcely ever free from the

devastating attacks of the Vikings and conquerors. The Danes frequently

established themselves in castles near the coast, as at Exeter, in

Devonshire; Dorchester and Wareham, in Dorsetshire; Winchester, in

Hampshire; and Chichester, in Sussex. At Southampton, in Hampshire, and

under the Isle of Wight, they generally wintered with large fleets.

Thence they made incursions into the land of the Anglo-Saxons; and if

they could not entirely expel them, and colonize the south of England in

their stead, they at least endeavoured to weaken and exhaust it as much

as possible.

On the whole, it would not have been very easy for the Danes to settle

themselves entirely in any parts of the south, or south-west, of

England; not even on the coasts near the harbours, though regularly

visited by the ships of the Norwegian Vikings. The inhabitants in these

parts were mostly of pure Saxon descent, and consequently already

prejudiced against the Danes, on account of the old disputes between the

Scandinavian and Saxon races; at all events, they somewhat differed from

the Danes in character, manners, and customs. These districts were,

besides, too remote from Denmark; and in case of an attack from the

Anglo-Saxons, which might naturally be expected to take place,

assistance might come too late. The Danes were not so safe there as on

the east coast of England, which lay opposite to Jutland, and where, if

any danger threatened them, a ship could easily be sent with a message

to their friends over the sea, so that, with a tolerably favourable

wind, a strong fleet could be speedily brought within sight of the

Anglo-Saxons. The Angles, whose descendants inhabited these eastern and

northern districts, seem too, with regard to language and national

manners, to have borne a greater resemblance to the Danes than the

inhabitants of any other part of England, so that it was by no means

difficult for the Danes speedily to amalgamate with them. In addition to

this, the eastern coasts offered much the same allurements to the Danes

as the more southern provinces. They were remarkable for their fertility

and for the riches of their inhabitants, acquired as well by agriculture

as by trade with Saxony, Belgium, and Gaul. Precisely on the east coast,

indeed, were situated at that time some of the largest commercial towns

in England.

It is not surprising, therefore, that, with the exception of London and

its environs, there are not found in the south of England, as is the

case farther north, many names of places of well-defined Danish or

Norwegian origin, which have preserved the old northern forms down to

the present day, and which thus clearly testify that a genuine

Scandinavian population must long have lived there. It is only at the

extremities of the coasts that an occasional promontory, or “Næs,” and

small islands whose names end in _ey_ and _holm_, remind one of the

Northmen; as Flatholmes (_Dan._, Fladholmene) and Steepholmes in the

Severn, where there are said to be remains of Danish fortifications;

Grasholm (_Dan._, Græsholm), to the west of Pembrokeshire; Bardsey, west

of Caernarvonshire; Priestholm (_Dan._, Præsteholm), near the northern

inlet of the Menai Straits; and several others.

In the south of England one cannot discover any striking resemblance to

the Danes either in the language, features, or frame of body of the

people. What they have chiefly left behind them here is a name, which

will certainly never be entirely eradicated from the people’s memory.

Centuries after the Danish dominion was overthrown in England, the dread

of the Danes was handed down from one generation to another, and even to

this day they occupy a considerable share in the remembrance of the

English nation. Throughout England the common people—nay, even a great

number of the more educated classes—know of no other inhabitants of the

north of Europe than “the Danes;” and as they include under this name

both Swedes and Norwegians, the idea of the unity of Scandinavia has

unconsciously taken root amongst them. That they have so implicitly

awarded the first place in Scandinavia to the Danes, has not originated

solely from the fact that, anciently, the Danes were really regarded as

the leading people in the north—whence also the old Norwegian language

was often called “dönsk tunga” (Danish tongue); nor because the Danes at

that time undoubtedly exercised a more important influence on the

British Isles than the other inhabitants of the north; it may, likewise,

have arisen from the circumstance that, partly in consequence of its

situation, Denmark has continued to stand, even down to our time, in

much closer relations both of peace and war with England, than Sweden

has; and that the separation of Norway from Denmark is still too recent

an event to have completely penetrated to the knowledge of the less

informed part of the English people. Even had the remembrance of the

Danes in England lain slumbering there, such events as the battle in

Copenhagen roads in 1801, and the seizure of the Danish fleet in 1807,

must at once have brought all the old tales respecting the doings of the

Danes in England to the lips of the English people.

Legends about “the Danes” are very much disseminated among the people,

even in the south of England. There is scarce a parish that has not in

some way or another preserved the remembrance of them. Sometimes they

are recorded to have burnt churches and castles, and to have destroyed

towns, whose inhabitants were put to the sword; sometimes they are said

to have burnt or cut down forests; here are shown the remains of large

earthen mounds and fortifications which they erected; there, again,

places are pointed out where bloody battles were fought with them. To

this must be added the names of places; as, _the Danes-walls_, _the

Danish forts_, _the Dane-field_, _the_ _Dane-forest_, _the Danes-banks_,

and many others of the like kind. Traces of Danish castles and ramparts

are not only found in the southern and south-eastern parts of England,

but also quite in the south-west, in Devonshire and Cornwall, where,

under the name of _Castelton Danis_, they are particularly found on the

sea coast. In the chalk cliffs, near Uffington, in Berkshire, is carved

an enormous figure of a horse, more than 300 feet in length; which, the

common people say, was executed in commemoration of a victory that King

Alfred gained over the Danes in that neighbourhood. On the heights, near

Eddington, were shown not long since the entrenchments, which, it was

asserted, the Danes had thrown up in the battle with Alfred. On the

plain near Ashdon, in Essex, where it was formerly thought that the

battle of Ashingdon had taken place, are to be seen some large Danish

barrows, which were long, but erroneously, said to contain the bones of

the Danes who had fallen in it. The so-called dwarf-alder (_Sambucus

ebulus_), which has red buds, and bears red berries, is said in England

to have germinated from the blood of the fallen Danes. It is therefore

also called _Daneblood_ and _Danewort_, and flourishes principally in

the neighbourhood of Warwick; where it is said to have sprung from, and

been dyed by, the blood shed there, when Canute the Great took and

destroyed the town.

Monuments, the origin of which is in reality unknown, are, in the

popular traditions, almost constantly attributed to the Danes. If the

spade or the plough brings ancient arms and pieces of armour to light,

it is rare that the labourer does not suppose them to have belonged to

that people. But particularly if bones or joints of unusual size are

found, they are at once concluded to be the remains of the gigantic

Danes, whose immense bodily strength and never-failing courage had so

often inspired their forefathers with terror. For though the Englishman

has stories about the cruelties of the ancient Danes, their

barbarousness, their love of drinking, and other vices, he has still

preserved no slight degree of respect for Danish bravery and Danish

achievements. “As brave as a Dane” is said to have been an old phrase in

England; just as “to strike like a Dane” was, not long since, a proverb

at Rome. Even in our days Englishmen readily acknowledge that the Danes

are “the best sailors on the Continent;” nay even that, themselves of

course excepted, they are “the best and bravest sailors in all the

world.” It is, therefore, doubly natural that English legends should

dwell with singular partiality on the memorials of the Danes’ overthrow.

Even the popular ballads revived and glorified the victories of the

English. Down to the very latest times was heard in Holmesdale, in

Surrey, on the borders of Kent, a song about a battle which the Danes

had lost there in the tenth century.

Amidst the many memorials of “the bloody Danes,” the name of Canute the

Great lives in glorious remembrance amongst the English people. It is

significant that later times have ascribed to Canute the honour of

important public undertakings for the common benefit, which, however, at

most, he can only have continued and forwarded. In the once marshy

districts towards the middle of the east coast of England, there is a

ditch several miles long, called the Devil’s dyke (in Cambridgeshire),

the formation of which is by some attributed to Canute, although it

existed in the time of Edward the Elder. Canute’s name is also given to

a very long road over the morasses near Peterborough (Kinges or

Cnutsdelfe), although it was made before his reign. Canute’s name is

also preserved in Canewdon (Canuti domus), near London, and close by the

battle-field of Ashingdon, in Essex, where he is said to have frequently

resided. In like manner a bird, said to have been brought into England

from Denmark, has been called after him _Knot_ (_Lat._, Tringa Canutus

seu Islandica).

It may be asserted, with truth, that not many English kings have left a

better name behind them than Canute. He does not owe this only to the

favour he showed the clergy, the authors of most of the chronicles of

ancient times. He acquired it by his numerous and excellent laws, by the

power he exerted in restoring order and tranquillity in the kingdom, by

his wisdom in suppressing the ancient animosities between the Danes and

Anglo-Saxons, as well as by the care he took to promote the knowledge

and piety of his people. He issued severe laws against heathenism, and

endeavoured to wipe out the traces of his forefathers’ devastations by

re-building convents and churches. He even caused the corpse of

Archbishop Elfeg, so cruelly murdered by the followers of Thorkel the

Tall, to be conveyed with great solemnity from London to Canterbury, and

deposited in the cathedral. To these traits may be added his many

excellent personal qualities, his sincere repentance for the acts of

violence which he committed in the heat of passion, and his profound

humility before God. The story of his shaming some of his courtiers, who

flattered him when walking on the seashore whilst the tide was flowing,

is, if possible, still better known in England than in Denmark. It would

be difficult to find any one who is not acquainted with all the

particulars of it, and who has not heard it stated that Canute, from

that very day, placed his golden crown on the altar of Winchester

cathedral, and never wore it more. This is one of those traits of true

nobility and greatness of soul that are imperishable in all times and

ages.

Canute was first buried in the old convent of St. Peter’s at Winchester;

but his body was afterwards removed into the grand choir of the

cathedral, where both his and his son Hardicanute’s tombs are still to

be seen. Over Hardicanute’s, in the wall that surrounds the middle of

the choir, was placed (1661) a stone, on which a ship is carved, and the

following inscription:—

Qui jacet hic regni sceptrum tulit Hardicanutus;

Emmæ Cnutonis gnatus et ipse fuit.

In hac cista Lo. 1661. Obiit A.D. 1042.

Or, “Hardicanute, who lies here, and who was a son of Emma and Canute,

bore the kingdom’s sceptre. He died in the year of our Lord 1042, and

was placed in this coffin in 1661.”

[Illustration: [++] Hardicanute’s Tombstone, ship]

The form of the ship on the tombstone shows it to be of no older date

than the seventeenth century; but it was possibly carved there because a

ship of war had previously adorned the tomb of Hardicanute. At all

events, it indicates his relationship with the powerful Scandinavian

sea-kings, and his descent from those Northmen who for centuries were

absolute on the ocean.

Above the before-mentioned wall, in the grand choir, there stands to the

left of the entrance a rather plain wooden coffin, decorated with a gilt

crown, half fallen off, with the inscription:—

“In this and another coffin, directly opposite, repose the remains

of Kings Canute and Rufus, of Queen Emma, and of the Archbishops

Winde and Alfvin.”

[Illustration: [++] Canute’s Tomb]

In Cromwell’s time, the coffins of the kings in the grand choir of

Winchester cathedral were broken open, and the bones dispersed; but they

were afterwards collected together, as far as this could be done, and

again placed in the grand choir in coffins like the one just mentioned.

Thus Canute the Great, whose ambition could not be bounded even by three

kingdoms, has not retained so much as a grave for himself and his

beloved Emma. The presentiment of the perishableness of all earthly

power that seized him when he deposited his golden crown in the same

place has, in truth, been fulfilled!

The other royal coffins that surround the grand choir in Winchester

contain the bones of several old Saxon kings. That the Danish kings

Canute and Hardicanute should be entombed among them, in the midst of

Anglo-Saxon south England, is a sufficient proof of the immense change

that had taken place with regard to the Danes in England since their

first appearance there as barbarous heathen Vikings. Instead of their

kings seeking renown by the destruction of churches and convents, and by

murdering or maltreating the clergy; instead of their despising any

other kind of burial than that in the open fields, on hills under large

cairns, or monumental stones, their successors were now regarded as the

benefactors and protectors of the Church, and as such worthy to repose

in the most important ecclesiastical edifices, even in the principal

district of their former mortal enemies. Nay, the clergy there were

indefatigable in handing down their glory to the latest ages; and thus a

statue of Canute the Great was long to be seen in the cathedral of

Winchester.

But this also affords a striking proof that the Danes and Anglo-Saxons

no longer regarded each other so much in the light of strangers, or with

such mutual feelings of enmity as before; and that Canute had thus

happily broken through the strong barrier which had hitherto separated

Saxon south England from Danish north England.

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An Account of the Danes and Norwegians in England, Scotland, and Ireland · 第 4 / 17 章