THE MAGIC OF SNOWDON

I

In a few days I left London and went to North Wales.

Opposite to me in the railway carriage sat an elderly lady, into

whose face I occasionally felt myself to be staring in an unconscious

way. But I was merely communing with myself: I was saying to myself,

'My love of North Wales, and especially of Snowdon, is certainly very

strong; but it is easily accounted for--it is a matter of

temperament. Even had Wales not been associated with Winnie, I still

must have dearly loved it. Much has been said about the effect of

scenery upon the minds and temperaments of those who are native to

it. But temperament is a matter of ancestral conditions: the place of

one's birth is an accident. As some, like my cousin Percy, for

instance are born with a passion for the sea, and some with a passion

for forests, some with a passion for mountains, and some with a

passion for rolling plains. The landscape amid which I was born had,

no doubt, a charm for me, and could bring to me that nature-ecstacy

which I inherited from Fenella Stanley. But with Wales I actually

fell in love the moment I set foot in the country. This is why I am

hurrying there now.'

And I laughed at myself, and evidently frightened the old lady very

much. She did not know that underneath the soul's direst

struggle--the struggle of personality with the tyranny of the

ancestral blood--there is an awful sense of humour--a laughter

(unconquerable, and yet intolerable) at the deepest of all

incongruities, the incongruity of Fate's game with man. I apologised

to her, and told her that I had been absorbed in reading a droll

story, in which a man believed that the Angel of Memory had

refashioned for him his dead wife out of his own sorrow and

unquenchable fountain of tears.

'What an extraordinary idea!' said the old lady, in the conciliatory

tone she would have adopted towards a madman whom she found alone

with her in a railway carriage. 'I mean he was very eccentric, wasn't

he?'

'Who shall say, madam? "Bold is the donkey-driver and bold the ka'dee

who dares say what he will believe, what disbelieve, not knowing in

any wise the mind of Allah, not knowing in any wise his own heart and

what it shall some day suffer."'

At the next station the old lady left the carriage and entered

another, and I was left alone.

My intention was to take up my residence at the cottage where

Winifred had lived with her aunt. Indeed, for a few days I did this,

taking with me one of the Welsh peasants with whom I had previously

made friends. But of course a lengthened stay in such a house was

impossible. More than ever now I needed attendance, and good

attendance, for I had passed into a strange state of irritability--I

had no command over my nerves, which were jarred by the most trifling

thing. I went to the hotel at Peri y Gwryd, but there tourists and

visitors made life more intolerable still to a man in my condition.

At first I thought of building a house as near to the cottage as

possible; but this would take time, and I could not rest out of

Wales. I decided at last to have a wooden bungalow built. By telling

the builders that time was the first consideration with me, the cost

a secondary one, I got a bungalow built in a few weeks. By the

tradesmen of Chester I got it fitted up and furnished to my taste

with equal rapidity. Attending to this business gave real relief.

When the bungalow was finished I removed into it the picture 'Faith

and Love.' I also got in as much painting material as I might want

and began to make sketches in the neighbourhood.

Time went on, and there I remained. In a great degree, however, the

habit of grieving was conquered by my application to work. My

moroseness of temper gradually left me.

Beautiful memories began to take the place of hideous ones--the

picture of the mattress and the squalor gave place to pictures of

Winifred on the sands of Raxton or on Snowdon. Yet so much of habit

is there in grief that even at this time I was subject to recurrent

waves of the old pain--waves which were sometimes as overmastering as

ever.

I did not neglect the cottage, which was now my property, but kept it

in exactly the same state as that in which it had been put by Sinfi

after Winnie had wandered back to Wales.

By isolating myself from all society, by surrounding myself with

mementos of Winifred, memory really did at last seem to be working a

miracle such as was worked for the widowed Ja'afar.

Yet not entirely had memory passed into an objective presence. I

seemed to feel Winnie near me; but that was all. I felt that more

necessary than anything else in perfecting the atmosphere of memory

in which I would live was the society of her in whom alone I had

found sympathy--Sinfi Lovell. Did I also remember the wild theories

of my father and Fenella Stanley about the crwth? To obtain the

company of Sinfi had now become very difficult--her attitude towards

me had so changed. When she allowed me to rejoin the Lovells at

Kingston Vale she did so under the compulsion of my distress. But my

leaving the Gypsies of my own accord left her free from this

compulsion. She felt that she had now at last bidden me farewell

for ever.

Still, opportunities of seeing her occasionally would, I knew,

present themselves, and I now determined to avail myself of these.

Panuel Lovell and some of the Boswells were not unfrequently in the

neighbourhood, and they were always accompanied by Sinfi and Videy.

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