_Introductory Notes._--The raisin grapes might be divided into two
classes,--proper and genuine, such as Muscats, Sultanas and Currants,
and irregular or inferior raisin grapes, such as Malagas and Feher
Szagos. Now-a-days almost any kind of grapes are dried and sometimes
called raisins, but the proper name for them should be dried grapes.
With these we need not here busy ourselves, as with a few exceptions
they are of little value, and cannot be compared with the regular raisin
grapes, either as regards quality, demand or price.
_Muscatel or Gordo Blanco._--This variety is the best type of the raisin
grape of Malaga. Its growth is low and spreading, with no upright
branches in the center. Its bunches are heavy, and, when perfect, close
and shouldered. Its berries are round and large, the greatest
circumference being at the center. A crease is often found at the apex
of the berry. The color is green, or, when fully ripe, amber green or
yellow. As compared with the Muscat of Alexandria, this variety is
distinguished, when perfect, by its low, depressed growth, without any
upright branches in the center of the vine; by a closer bunch; by
rounder berries, and by a thicker and firmer bloom. The berries set
better than those of the Muscat of Alexandria, although both varieties
suffer from the early stages of oidium or colure. The Gordo Blanco is
the choice raisin grape for the San Joaquin valley, and for the interior
generally. It is the raisin grape of Malaga in Spain, where it is
probable the variety originated. Importations of this variety have been
made to California at various times by A. Haraszthy in 1861, and by W.
S. Chapman in 1876.
_Muscat of Alexandria._--The growth of this variety is upright in the
center. Its clusters, even when perfect, are never close. Its berries
are oblong and tapering, the largest circumference being near the apex.
The color when fully ripe is amber green or yellowish green. The leaves
of both varieties of Muscats are five-pointed, light green, lighter
below, and do not differ materially from each other. Both Muscats are
remarkable for their second and third growths, and for the large second
crop on the laterals.
The Muscat of Alexandria, as compared with the Gordo Blanco, is
characterized by its oblong berries, and by its more upright branches in
the center of the vine. Its growth is more straggling than that of the
Gordo Blanco, and, planted side by side, the two varieties are
distinctly characteristic. The Muscat of Alexandria is the favorite
raisin grape in Southern California, where it seems eminently adapted. I
found no other Muscat in San Bernardino and San Diego counties. The most
magnificent bunches of this variety which I have ever seen were grown
there only a few miles from the ocean,--bunches that could not be
surpassed, and which certainly were equal in weight to any Gordo Blanco
that have ever come under my notice. A. B. Butler considers that the
Muscat of Alexandria does equally as well as the Gordo Blanco in Fresno,
but most growers are not ready to agree with him.
[Illustration: 2.--Planting Bar (Fresno). 3.--Fresno “Sheep’s-foot.”
4.--Muscat of Alexandria (N. S.). 5.--Muscatel Gordo Blanco.]
The raisin made from the Muscat of Alexandria looks smaller on account
of its oblong form, and is less suited for facing the boxes, but as to
other qualities, such as taste, sweetness and color, there is no marked
difference between these two varieties of Muscats. All varieties of
Muscats set better in moist air than where the air is very dry, and the
moister air tends to better develop the bunches. This explains why, in
isolated vineyards in the interior, the bunches are never so large as
where a large number of acres of vines have modified the often excessive
dryness of the atmosphere. As to the relative distribution of these two
varieties of Muscats in our State, it may be stated that the former is
not based upon any particular adaptability of the respective varieties
to the localities where they are grown. The Muscat of Alexandria is the
older variety of the two, probably both in Spain as well as in
California. To Valencia in Spain it was brought by the Moors from
Africa, or possibly from Alexandria in Egypt. The Gordo Blanco again
appears to be a native Spanish variety, especially adapted to the warmer
region of Malaga or Southern Spain. The Gordo Blanco is the principal
grape of Malaga; the Muscat of Alexandria is the one grown in Valencia
and Denia and also in Smyrna in Asia Minor.
In California the Gordo Blanco is found around Woodland in Yolo county,
throughout the San Joaquin valley, and in Fresno it is the favorite and
almost exclusive Muscat grape. The Muscat of Alexandria is grown in
Solano county and elsewhere in Northern California, while it is the
exclusive grape in Riverside, Redlands, Orange county and El Cajon, and
probably elsewhere in San Diego county or Southern California generally.
The Muscat of Alexandria was imported by Colonel Agoston Haraszthy in
1852 from Malaga, and by D. M. Delmas some thirty-eight years ago from
France.
_Huasco Muscat._--This variety (pronounced Uasco) resembles very much
the Muscat of Alexandria, of which it is probably a seedling, and was
introduced into Chile by the Spaniards soon after the conquest.
According to Professor E. W. Hilgard, this variety sets better than the
Alexandria, and on that account deserves to be cultivated. It is strange
that no attempts have been made in this country to grow it on a larger
scale. The Huasco is undoubtedly one of the most interesting grapes, and
the fact that it produces the most expensive raisins in the world should
be a sufficient inducement to our California growers to at least study
the variety closely. I should think that El Cajon valley would be the
proper locality for it in this State.
_Other Varieties of Muscats._--A variety of Muscatel resembling the
Gordo Blanco, but with more erect growth, is said to have been imported
by G. G. Briggs of Davisville, Solano county. I have seen it growing in
the vineyard of George A. Freeman of Fresno, but cannot distinguish its
berries from those of the Gordo Blanco. The growth of the vine is more
erect, and leaves the center of the vine rather uncovered and exposed. I
would decidedly prefer the Gordo Blanco. A seedling of the Gordo Blanco
originated by the author is now growing on the Floreal vineyard, owned
by J. T. Goodman, near Fresno. This variety promised a great deal the
first season. I have no doubt that, with some selection of berries and
bunches, many new and valuable raisin grapes could be originated in this
State, varieties which would be especially adapted to our soil and
climate. While our fruit-growers have produced a number of new fruits of
various kinds, we have yet to hear of the first superior grape
seedlings. According to the _Rural Press_ of May 5, 1877, C. T. Ward of
Haywards, Alameda county, raised some seedlings from Huasco seed, but
what has become of them I do not know. Haywards would not be likely to
be a proper place for raisin grapes, and even the best variety could not
possibly be a success there.
J. T. Goodman of Fresno has a Muscatel vine in his vineyard which ripens
ten days earlier than the Gordo Blanco, but whether it is a seedling is
not known. It may prove a most valuable variety if extensively grown. B.
G. Stabler of Yuba City tells me that Ch. E. Swezy, near Marysville,
has raised a seedling from an imported Dehesa raisin, which in size,
flavor and all other qualities excels any other table grape known, but
the flavor of the grape does not resemble that of the Muscatel. I have
seen raisins made from this grape, but they were not desirable; but as a
table grape this variety is said to be superior. If so, this grape
should be tried in different localities, and may prove a real
acquisition. There is no doubt that other seedling raisin grapes have
been raised in this State, and we hope in course of time to know all
about them.
_Seedless Sultana._--This grape is decidedly one of the most important
raisin grapes known. Its bunches are very large, sometimes weighing five
pounds each. The berries are round and seedless, the size of large peas,
of a green color, which, when the grape ripens, turns bright amber
yellow, with small brown spots. The leaves are large and very entire,
and more yellowish than those of the Muscat. The growth of the vine is
upright, with erect or climbing branches. This grapevine in order to
bear must be pruned long, and should properly be staked from four to
five feet high. The yield of the Sultana is very heavy, and as much as
sixteen tons of fresh grapes are frequently harvested from an acre,
provided the soil is the very best possible. The grapes begin to color
and sweeten several weeks before the Muscat, but they become fully ripe
later than this variety, and are on that account not as extensively
grown as they certainly deserve to be. For districts with long summers
and autumns the Sultana will prove a very profitable and desirable
grape. The native home of the Sultana is Asia Minor. There it is grown
principally around Smyrna and in several of the islands in the
Archipelago. In California only few Sultana vineyards are planted; still
there is undoubtedly a great field for this grape where the seasons are
long enough to allow of its perfect ripening. The raisins are light in
color and somewhat acid, but with no particular flavor, and in this
respect are inferior to the Muscats and the Currants. They are produced
either by dipping, as is done in Smyrna, or by sun-drying, as we do in
this State. If the dipping process is used, the grapes must be very
ripe, else they will turn reddish and dark and lose quality. In
California the Sultana grape does well, and only seldom produces seeds.
In Eastern Mediterranean countries, except in the few favored spots of
Smyrna, or in some of the Islands, this variety rapidly deteriorates and
becomes seed-bearing, which of course entirely ruins its usefulness. The
Seedless Sultana was first brought to California by Colonel Agoston
Haraszthy in 1861.
_Black Currant._--This variety is but little known in this State. The
growth is erect and climbing. The bunches are long, narrow and
cylindrical, with heavy shoulders. The berries are small, of the size of
peas, seedless and black, very sweet and with a peculiar aroma not found
in any other variety. The Black Currant should be pruned short, and the
young branches require staking in order to bear well. The home of the
Black Currant is the Grecian Islands as well as Morea, especially around
Patras. Zante, Cephalonia and Ithaca all produce Currants of the highest
quality.
_Other Varieties of Currants._--The White Currant grown in California is
not the true raisin grape which produces the Currant of commerce. The
bunch and berry resemble the Black Currant, but differ in not being
black, and in lacking the peculiar aroma and flavor alone possessed by
the Black and true Currant. There are in Greece several other varieties
of Currants, such as red and gray, but these are used for wine and not
for raisins. The White and Red Currants were introduced from Crimea in
1861 by Colonel Agoston Haraszthy.
_Thompson Seedless._--This variety has been growing in California for
many years, but has only lately come into notice. It was imported from
Rochester, New York, from the establishment of Elwanger & Barry, about
1872, and was by them described as a grape from Constantinople under the
name of Lady Decoverly. Thompson Seedless is the name given this grape
by the local growers around Yuba City, and not the original name. I am
inclined to believe that this grape is related to, but not identical
with, the oblong, seedless grape which is grown around Damascus in Asia
Minor, and there dried into a raisin of very good quality. This Damascus
grape is brownish when ripe. Thompson Seedless is an oval grape,
greenish yellow, as large as a Sultana, seedless, with thin skin, good
but not strong flavor, and without that acid which characterizes the
Sultana grape and raisin. The bunches are large, or very large, and the
vine is an enormous bearer. As yet it is principally grown around Yuba
City and Marysville in limited quantities, but the raisins are in good
demand. When sun-dried and cured, these raisins are bluish and dark like
Muscats, but narrower and more tapering, and only a quarter the size.
Their sweetness and taste commend them for cooking purposes, and the
bearing quality of the vine will no doubt make their growing profitable
in all places where the seasons are too short to thoroughly ripen the
Sultana. In Yuba this grape ripens early in August.
_Other Seedless Grapes._--In the Islands of Lipari and Pantelleria a
coarse but seedless grape is grown, out of which a variety of Sultana
raisin is made. We have no further notices and description of this
variety.
_Malaga._--This is not a real raisin grape, but of late years raisins
have been made from it and found both fair in quality and profitable to
the grower. The Malaga is a heavy bearer of one crop of very large but
loose bunches. There is no second crop. The berries are large, oval, not
tapering, the flesh is meaty and solid, very sweet, but with no decided
flavor. The skin is thick and green, when ripe amber yellow, with thick
bloom. Raisins made of this grape are very large, and the bunches are
also large and solid, and the berries are not easily torn off. When
sweated, the skin becomes thinner, and the quality improves generally.
The Malaga is a very hardy vine, not particular about soil, a strong
grower, bears well, and its grapes ripen at the time of the Muscats.
But, as there is no second crop, the vintage of the Malaga will be over
long before that of the Muscats, and out of the way of rain or fog. This
is what makes this grape so valuable. Four cents per pound has been paid
for these raisins in sweatboxes for the past two years, and at that
price this grape pays better than the Muscats. The Malaga raisins are
also very heavy and solid. I am satisfied that there will be a good
demand for this raisin, especially among consumers, who prefer a bunch
raisin, but who do not care to pay for the expensive packing which is
necessary to preserve the Muscat bunches. The Malaga raisin could be
sold in bulk, and still would not break up. The Malaga grape is grown in
many places in California, and is used principally as a table grape; it
has only been cured and dried into raisins in Fresno. According to A. B.
Butler, this grape is grown in Malaga for table purposes.
_Feher Szagos._--Feher Szagos raisins have been in the market for
several years, and have brought in sweatboxes from three to three and a
half cents per pound. This grape is a heavy bearer and grower, branches
erect but slender, leaves glossy, entire, bunches medium to small,
pointed and solid. The berries are greenish amber, medium, oval,
pointed, with thin skin, and few and small seeds. The flesh is not firm,
but dries well, and when dried the raisin is very good, with a peculiar
flavor of its own. They are only used for cooking, but are nevertheless
rather good raisins to eat, and their seeds are so soft that they are
not objectionable. The bearing quality of the Feher Szagos is very
heavy, as much as sixteen tons of green grapes having been raised to the
acre, and from ten to twelve tons is a common yield. It ripens with the
Muscat, and the vine bears only one crop. At three cents per pound, the
Feher Szagos is a profitable grape. The native home of this variety is
Hungary or Southern Austria, the name meaning, in Hungarian, White Jack.
In Fresno it is grown quite extensively, having originally been planted
as a wine grape. As such it is highly valued, producing an abundance of
highly flavored sherry.
_Other Raisin Grapes._--In Asia Minor, the Grecian Islands, Morea,
Italy, Spain and Morocco, there are grown a number of varieties of
grapes which are cured into raisins and sold as such. Many of these are
little, if any, better than our dried grapes, while others again are
superior, more resembling the regular raisins. Among the latter we have
the Spanish Black and Red, and the Smyrna and Turkish Black and Red.
Some of them belong to the Muscat family, probably resembling Black and
Red Muscats, but of these varieties we have no particular information,
and our growers will probably not lose much by avoiding a more intimate
acquaintance with them.