_Extent and Age of the District._--Malaga has been known to export
raisins since 1295 A. D., but must have been a raisin-producing district
centuries before. The raisin cult, then, is no doubt of Phœnician
origin, and has been practiced in the same locality for two thousand
years or more. Under the Romans the raisin industry was continued, but
appears to have deteriorated and later on to have been abandoned
altogether, as the local tradition credits the Moors with having
re-introduced the raisin grape into Velez Malaga. The raisin district of
Malaga extends along the southern coast of Spain for a distance of sixty
or seventy miles. The district is subdivided into several other
districts. Thus, the subdistrict of Malaga proper occupies a plain
eighteen miles long by nine miles wide, in the northeast corner of which
is situated the town of Malaga.
The best part of the whole district is, however, found at Velez Malaga,
situated northeast of Malaga proper. It was here the raisin grape was
first planted by the Romans or Phœnicians, and it was here also the
devastating phylloxera first made its appearance. The raisin vineyards
extend here not over a _vega_ or plain, but occupy the fertile country
along the coast or the litoral towards Malaga proper.
Beyond Velez Malaga to Algaroba, the Muscatel grape is of inferior
quality, and is greatly superseded by the red Muscats, principally
exported to France.
Another district is _Marbella_, on the coast, and in the interior we
find _Ronda_ and _Albuñol_. Of the principal towns in these districts,
the population of Malaga is 120,000, that of Velez Malaga 24,000, of
Marbella 7,700, and of Ronda 19,000.
_Climate._--The climate of Malaga is the very mildest. Frost is almost
unknown, and is never heavy. The average temperature of Malaga during
the winter months of November to January is 56 degrees Fahrenheit, while
that of Pau in France is 41, and that of Nice 47. Malaga is well
sheltered on the north and east by mountains, but is open to the south.
It is the most equitable climate of Europe, although the winds are
sometimes trying. The summer is very tempered. The air is, however,
moist, and fog, while rare, is not entirely absent. Rain sometimes falls
during the growing season of the grapes, and quite frequently during the
drying season. But the fog is warm and not specially injurious to the
grapes, the latter often growing within reach of the spray on the
seashore.
_Soil._--The soil of the Malaga vineyards varies considerably, the best
being a reddish clayey loam with much sand and gravel. But we have also
other varieties of soil, such as the white ash, gray alluvial soils, and
the very sandy loam on the hills.
_Location of the Vineyards._--In former years, the vineyards were
principally located on the hillsides, only occasionally extending to the
level plains. Of late, however, the hillside vineyards have suffered
from the phylloxera and various other diseases, and many of them have
been dug up. The lowland vineyards are now the best, although even they
are, by far, not free from disease. Few of the vineyards are located on
entirely level ground, there being but little such in the district. The
nature of the country is rolling, with small valleys or flats. The
raisin grapes grow apparently well both inland and on the coast.
According to Consul Marston, about eighty per cent of the vineyards are
situated on rolling land, ten per cent on lowland and ten per cent on
the very coast. The vineyards on the coast are actually within reach of
the spray.
The vineyards are generally small, none being over eighty acres in
extent. Most contain, perhaps, from three to four acres each; while from
twenty to forty acres is considered a good-sized vineyard.
_Varieties of Grapes._--The principal variety used is the Gordo Blanco
or Muscatel. It is identical with the grape known by us under that name,
and which was imported to us from Malaga. But several types are found,
although none superior to the Gordo Blanco.
_Characteristics of the Raisins._--The Malaga raisins were, until
lately, the finest raisins in the world, and for the present have only
the California raisins to compete with. They are characterized by great
sweetness, deep bluish color, great size and by good keeping qualities.
The best raisins are those called Dehesas, being produced on the valley
lands of the districts.
_Yield of Grapes._--The yield of Malaga vineyards varies of course. The
best yield eight or nine tons of grapes to the acre,--just like those of
California. But there is a great difference between new and old
vineyards. In many vineyards where formerly the yield was nine tons, the
soil has been so exhausted by continuous croppings that to-day, even
with manuring, two or three tons of grapes must be considered a high
yield.
_Distances of the Vines._--The older vineyards had their vines set seven
feet by seven feet, but of late the vines are planted generally eight
feet by four feet, thus much closer than by us in California.
_Pruning._--The pruning of the vineyard is performed very much as in
California. Formerly the soil had to be removed from the vines before
they could be pruned; now this is not necessary except while the vines
are very young. The various branches are pruned back to a few inches,
with two eyes each, while the heads are elevated only a few inches above
the ground.
_Manuring and Fertilizing._--The Malaga vineyardist fully understands
the value of manuring his vineyards, and uses for this purpose not only
all fertilizers available at home, but also imports directly from
distant countries. The most valued fertilizers are the Mexican and
Chilean guanos or phosphates. The Mexican phosphate costs in Malaga
sixty-five dollars per ton; still it is used by all the principal
vineyardists, who know the value of fertilizers. In fact, concentrated
fertilizers are a necessity to the Malaga vineyards; without them they
could not be cropped. Even the most virgin soil is exhausted in ten
years’ time by constant croppings of raisin grapes; no paying crops
could be expected if fertilizers were not used yearly. This fertilizing
of the soil is, however, of recent origin, and fifty years ago was
almost unknown.
When home manures are used, it is placed in holes dug round the roots of
the vines, which, after exposure to the air for several months, are
again filled up at the advent of spring, generally in March, before the
vines start to bud.
_Drying-floors, or Sequeros._--The raisins, when picked, are dried on
so-called _sequeros_, or drying-floors, characteristic of the Malaga
district. These floors are of different sizes and lengths in different
vineyards, but everywhere constructed on the same general principles.
Where an incline or a hill is found, the floor may simply be built on
the slope, with no artificial elevation; but, where the ground is level,
the structure of the _sequero_ is different. The floor must always face
the south, and the back is raised to give the floor the proper slope.
The _sequero_ thus consists of four walls, the front one of which is
only a foot high, and the back wall from six to eight feet high. The
side walls slope between these, generally with an angle of forty-five
degrees. In length, these floors vary from forty to fifty feet,
according to the different ideas of the vineyardists. The whole interior
is filled with black gravel, and is tamped hard. These _sequeros_ are
divided in beds, fourteen feet or so wide, by tiles that are sunk, thus
forming walks of several feet in width, and which also serve for leading
off the rainwater. Around every little bed of this kind are small
upright tiles to prevent the rainwater entering from the walks. Finally,
in the center of the bed, is a long row of upright tiles, high enough to
support either boards, mats, or more generally canvas, in order that
they may shed the rain into the tile walks. The value of such floors is
evident. Being covered with canvas, etc., every night, the heat is
preserved, and every morning, when the sun rises, the grapes are yet
warm. The drying on such beds has never, in fact, been interrupted. The
drying-floors are also useful in case of too hot weather, when the
grapes can be properly sheltered with canvas and prevented from being
cooked; when finally dried, the covering, again, will serve to keep the
moisture from too quickly evaporating.
_Drying and Curing._--When the grapes are picked, the best vineyardists
separate the bunches immediately in three different grades. Each grade
is placed by itself on the gravelly drying-ground, and remains there to
dry. When half dried, they are taken bunch by bunch by a workman, who
picks out bad or overdried berries and rubbish, and in putting the bunch
back turns it over. In ten days the grapes are generally dried, provided
the weather has been favorable. Every night the canvas covering is slid
down over the _sequero_, and the grapes protected from dew and cold, or
rain. The drying is sometimes greatly hastened by the _Terral_ or hot
winds blowing from the plains of La Mancha, a wind very similar in its
effect to the desert wind of Riverside and Santa Ana, in California.
_Packing._--The raisins in Malaga are packed by the large growers
themselves, and every such grower packs almost to a man. The generally
accepted idea that a few packers living in Malaga pack all the raisins
is erroneous. This is not the case.[2] Nearly all packers there are also
growers owning their own vineyards. The raisins are all packed in
22-pound boxes or in quarters, etc., according to the demands of the
trade.
[2] According to A. B. Butler.
The various raisin brands packed in Malaga are different according to
the different markets that are to be supplied. Thus for England we have:
Finest Dehesa, three crown; finest Dehesa, two crown; finest Dehesa, one
crown; Dehesa; Choice layers; London layers, three crown; London layers,
two crown; London layers, one crown.
For France again we have: 1 Imperiaux; 1 Royaux; Couches; Surchoix;
Choix; Ordinaire; Surcouches, etc.
The loose raisins or _Brena_ and the seedless or _Escombro_ generally go
to the continent or even to the United States. The old terms Garoon or
Sun are now never used.
For American markets we have: Imperial Dehesa; Royal finest Dehesa;
finest Dehesa; fine Dehesa; Dehesa; London layers, three crown; London
layers, two crown; London loose, one, two and three crown.
Boxes are generally made from fir imported from Portugal, at fifteen
cents each. Of late years, however, they are also received from Canada,
and cost only seven cents each.
_Labor._--The labor in Malaga is the most expensive in Spain, the best
laborer being paid forty cents per day, while in Denia the labor is
obtained for fifteen cents only; but it must be remembered that the
packing of the Malaga raisins is a much more particular work than the
packing of the dipped Denias.
The price paid for Malaga raisins at the packing-house is at an average
of seven cents per pound for the best, or from one to two cents more
than what is paid in California. The lower grades bring from two and a
half cents upwards.