When you make apple pies, stew your apples very little indeed; just
strike them through, to make them tender. Some people do not stew
them at all, but cut them up in very thin slices, and lay them in
the crust. Pies made in this way may retain more of the spirit of the
apple; but I do not think the seasoning mixes in as well. Put in sugar
to your taste; it is impossible to make a precise rule, because apples
vary so much in acidity. A very little salt, and a small piece of
butter in each pie, makes them richer. Cloves and cinnamon are both
suitable spice. Lemon-brandy and rose-water are both excellent. A
wine-glass full of each is sufficient for three or four pies. If your
apples lack spirit, grate in a whole lemon.