CHAPTER IV

IN THE FOREST

In one of the rambling myths of the Maori we are told how the hero

Rata, wishing to build a canoe, went into the forest and felled a

tree. In the old days of stone axes, tree-felling was not the work of

an hour, but the toil of days. Great, therefore, was Rata’s vexation

when, on returning to the scene of his labours, he found that the tree

had been set up again by magic, and was standing without a trace of

injury. Much perplexed, the woodcutter thereupon sought out a famous

goddess or priestess, who told him that the restoration was the work

of the Hakaturi, or wood-fairies, whom he must propitiate with certain

ceremonies and incantations. Rata therefore once more cut the tree

down, and having done so, hid himself close by. Presently from the

thickets there issued a company of small bow-legged people, who,

surrounding the fallen tree, began to chant to it somewhat as follows:--

Ah! ’tis Rata; he is felling

Tané’s forest, our green dwelling.

Yet we cry, and lo, upspring

Chips and splinters quivering.

Leap together--life will hold you!

Cling together--strength will fold you!

Yes--the tree-god’s ribs are bound

Now by living bark around.

Yes--the trembling wood is seen,

Standing straight and growing green.

[Illustration: THE RETURN OF THE WAR CANOE]

And, surely enough, as they sang, the severed trunk rose and reunited,

and every flake and chip of bark and wood flew together straightway.

Then Rata, calling out to them, followed the injunctions given him.

They talked with him, and in the end he was told to go away and

return next morning. When he came back, lo! in the sunshine lay a new

war-canoe, glorious with black and red painting, and tufts of large

white feathers, and with cunning spirals on prow and tall stern-post,

carved as no human hand could carve them. In this canoe he sailed over

the sea to attack and destroy the murderer of his father.

Lovers of the New Zealand forest, who have to live in an age when axe

and fire are doing their deadly work so fast, must regret that the

fairies, defenders of trees, have now passed away. Of yore when the

Maori were about to fell a tree they made propitiatory offerings to

Tané and his elves, at any rate when the tree was one of size. For, so

Tregear tells us, they distinguished between the aristocracy of the

forest and the common multitude. Totara and rimu were _rangatira_, or

gentlemen to whom sacrifice must be offered, while underbrush might be

hacked and slashed without apology. So it would seem that when Cowley

was writing the lines--

Hail, old patrician trees so great and good;

Hail, ye plebeian underwood!

he was echoing a class distinction already hit upon by the fancy of

tattooed savages in an undiscovered island. Now all things are being

levelled. Great Tané is dead, and the children of the tree-god have few

friends. Perhaps some uncommercial botanist or misliked rhymester may

venture on a word for them; or some much-badgered official may mark

out a reserve in fear and trembling. Canon Stack, who knew the Maori

of the South Island so well, says that half a century ago the belief

in fairies was devout, and that he often conversed with men who were

certain that they had seen them. One narrator in particular had caught

sight of a band of them at work amid the curling mists of a lofty

hill-top where they were building a stockaded village. So evident was

the faith of the man in the vision he described that Canon Stack was

forced to think that he had seen the forms of human builders reflected

on the mountain-mist, after the fashion of the spectre of the Brocken.

[Illustration: OKAHUMOKO BAY, WHANGAROA]

For myself, I could not have the heart to apply scientific analysis to

our Maori fairy-tales, all too brief and scanty as they are. It is,

doubtless, interesting to speculate on the possible connections of

these with the existence of shadowy tribes who may have inhabited parts

of New Zealand in the distant centuries, and been driven into

inaccessible mountains and entangled woods by the Maori invader. To me,

however, the legends seem to indicate a belief, not in one supernatural

race, but in several. In Europe, of course, the Northern traditions

described beings of every sort of shape, from giants and two-headed

ogres to minute elves almost too small to be seen. And in the same

continent, under clearer skies, were the classic myths of nymphs and

woodland deities, human in shape, but of a beauty exceeding that of

mankind. So Keats could dream of enchanting things that happened

Upon a time before the faëry broods

Drove nymph and satyr from the prosperous woods,

Before King Oberon’s bright diadem,

Sceptre and mantle clasped with dewy gem,

Frightened away the dryads and the fauns

From rushes green and brakes and cowslipp’d lawns.

In much the same way do the Maori stories vary. One tells us of giant

hunters attended by two-headed dogs. Another seems to indicate a

tiny race of wood elves or goblins. Elsewhere the Maori story-teller

explains that fairies were much like human beings, but white-skinned,

and with red or yellow hair, nearly resembling the Pakeha. They haunted

the sea-shore and the recesses of the hill-forests, whither they

would decoy the incautious Maori by their singing. The sound of their

cheerful songs was sweet and clear, and in the night-time the traveller

would hear their voices among the trees, now on this side, now on

that; or the notes would seem to rise near at hand, and then recede

and fall, dying away on the distant hill-sides. Their women were

beautiful, and more than one Maori ancestral chief possessed himself of

a fairy wife. On the other hand, the fairies would carry off the women

and maidens of the Maori, or even, sometimes, little children, who were

never seen again, though their voices were heard by sorrowing mothers

calling in the air over the tree-tops.

[Illustration: MAORI FISHING PARTY]

Sir George Grey was the first, I think, to write down any of the Maori

fairy-tales; at any rate, two of the best of them are found in his

book. One concerns the adventure of the chief Kahukura, who, walking

one evening on the sea-shore in the far north of the North Island, saw

strange footprints and canoe marks on the sands. Clearly fishermen had

been there; but their landing and departure must have taken place in

the night, and there was something about the marks they had left that

was puzzling and uncanny. Kahukura went his way pondering, and “held

fast in his heart what he had seen.” So after nightfall back he came to

the spot, and after a while the shore was covered with fairies. Canoes

were paddled to land dragging nets full of mackerel, and all were busy

in securing the fish. Kahukura mingled with the throng, and was as busy

as any, picking up fish and running a string of flax through their

gills. Like many Maori chiefs, he was a light-complexioned man, so

fair that in the starlight the fairies took him for one of themselves.

Morning approached, and the fishermen were anxious to finish their

work; but Kahukura contrived by dropping and scattering fish to

impede and delay them until dawn. With the first streaks of daylight

the fairies discovered that a man was among them, and fled in confusion

by sea and land, leaving their large seine net lying on the shore. It

is true that the net was made of rushes; but the pattern and knotting

were so perfect and ingenious that the Maori copied them, and that is

how they learned to make fishing-nets.

Another chief, Te Kanawa, fell in with the fairies high up on a wooded

mountain near the river Waikato. This encounter also, we are assured,

took place long ago, before the coming of white men. Te Kanawa had

been hunting the wingless kiwi, and, surprised by night, had to encamp

in the forest. He made his bed of fern among the buttresses at the

foot of a large pukatea-tree, and, protected by these and his fire,

hoped to pass the night comfortably. Soon, however, he heard voices

and footsteps, and fairies began to circle round about, talking and

laughing, and peeping over the buttresses of the pukatea at the

handsome young chief. Their women openly commented on his good looks,

jesting with each other at their eagerness to examine him. Te Kanawa,

however, was exceedingly terrified, and thought of nothing but of how

he might propitiate his inquisitive admirers and save himself from some

injury at their hands. So he took from his neck his hei-tiki, or charm

of greenstone, and from his ears his shark’s-tooth ornaments, and hung

them upon a wand which he held out as an offering to the fairy folk.

At once these turned to examine the gifts with deep interest. According

to one version of the story they made patterns of them, cut out of

wood and leaves. According to another, they, by enchantment, took away

the shadows or resemblances of the prized objects. In either case they

were satisfied to leave the tangible ornaments with their owner, and

disappeared, allowing Te Kanawa to make his way homeward. That he did

with all possible speed, at the first glimpse of daylight, awe-struck

but gratified by the good nature of the elves.

[Illustration: CARVED HOUSE, OHINEMUTU]

A third story introduces us to a husband whose young wife had been

carried off and wedded by a fairy chief. For a while she lived with

her captor in one of the villages of the fairies into which no living

man has ever penetrated, though hunters in the forest have sometimes

seen barriers of intertwined wild vines, which are the outer defences

of an elfin _pa_. The bereaved husband at last bethought himself of

consulting a famous _tohunga_, who, by powerful incantations, turned

the captured wife’s thoughts back to her human husband, and restored

the strength of her love for him. She fled, therefore, from her fairy

dwelling, met her husband, who was lurking in the neighbourhood, and

together they regained their old home. Thither, of course, the fairies

followed them in hot pursuit. But the art of the _tohunga_ was equal

to the danger. He had caused the escaped wife and the outside of her

house to be streaked and plastered with red ochre. He had also

instructed the people of the village to cook food on a grand scale,

so that the air should be heavy with the smell of the cooking at the

time of the raid of the fairies. The sight of red ochre and the smell

of cooked food are so loathsome to the fairy people that they cannot

endure to encounter them. So the baffled pursuers halted, fell back and

vanished, and the wife remained peacefully with her husband, living a

happy Maori life.

The Maori might well worship Tané, the tree-god, who held up the sky

with his feet and so let in light upon the sons of earth. For the

forest supplied them with much more than wood for their stockades,

canoes, and utensils. It sheltered the birds which made such an

important part of the food of the Maori, living as they did in a land

without four-footed beasts. Tame as the birds were, the fowlers, on

their side, were without bows and arrows, and knew nothing of the

blow-gun, which would have been just the weapon for our jungles. They

had to depend mainly on snaring and spearing, and upon the aid of

decoys. Though the snaring was ingenious enough, it was the spearing

that needed especial skill and was altogether the more extraordinary.

The spears were made of the tawa-tree, and while they were but an inch

in thickness, were thirty feet long or even longer. One tree could

only supply two of these slim weapons, which, after metals became

known to the Maori, were tipped with iron. When not in use they were

lashed or hung in a tree. Taking one in hand the fowler would climb

up to a platform prepared in some tree, the flowers or berries of

which were likely to attract wild parrots or pigeons. Then the spear

was pushed upwards, resting against branches. All the fowler’s art

was next exerted to draw down the birds by his decoys to a perch

near the spear-point. That accomplished, a quick silent stab did the

rest. Many living white men have seen this dexterous feat performed,

though it must be almost a thing of the past now. As soon as the Maori

began to obtain guns, and that is ninety years ago, they endeavoured

to shoot birds with them. Having a well-founded distrust of their

marksmanship, they would repeat as closely as possible the tactics

they had found useful in spearing. Climbing silently and adroitly into

the trees and as near their pigeon or kaka as possible, they waited

until the muzzle of the gun was within a foot or two of the game, and

then blew the unfortunate bird from the branch. Major Cruise witnessed

this singular performance in the year 1820. Birds were among the

delicacies which the Maori preserved for future use, storing them in

tightly-bound calabashes, where they were covered with melted fat.

Their favourite choice for this process was a kind of puffin or petrel,

the mutton-bird, which goes inland to breed, and nests in underground

burrows.

* * * * *

[Illustration: A BUSH ROAD]

Though no great traveller, I have seen beautiful landscapes in fourteen

or fifteen countries, and yet hold to it that certain views of our

forest spreading round lakes and over hills and valleys, peaceful

and unspoiled, are sights as lovely as are to be found. Whence

comes their complete beauty? Of course, there are the fine contours

of mountain and vale, cliff and shore. And the abundance of water,

swirling in torrents, leaping in waterfalls, or winding in lakes or

sea-gulfs, aids greatly. But to me the magic of the forest--I speak of

it where you find it still unspoiled--comes first from its prodigal

life and continual variety. Why, asks a naturalist, do so many of us

wax enthusiastic over parasites and sentimental over lianas? Because,

I suppose, these are among the most striking signs of the astonishing

vitality and profusion which clothe almost every yard of ground and

foot of bark, and, gaining foothold on the trees, invade the air

itself. Nature there is not trimmed and supervised, weeded out, swept

and garnished, as in European woods. She lets herself go, expelling

nothing that can manage to find standing room or breathing space. Every

rule of human forestry and gardening appears to be broken, and the

result is an easy triumph for what seems waste and rank carelessness.

Trees tottering with age still dispute the soil with superabundant

saplings, or, falling, lean upon and are held up by undecaying

neighbours. Dead trunks cumber the ground, while mosses, ferns, and

bushes half conceal them. Creepers cover matted thickets, veiling their

flanks and netting them into masses upon which a man may sit, and a boy

be irresistibly tempted to walk. Aloft, one tree may grow upon another,

and itself bear the burden of a third. Parasites twine round parasites,

dangle in purposeless ropes, or form loops and swings in mid-air. Some

are bare, lithe and smooth-stemmed; others trail curtains of leaves

and pale flowers. Trees of a dozen species thrust their branches into

each other, till it is a puzzle to tell which foliage belongs to this

stem, which to that; and flax-like arboreal colonists fill up forks and

dress bole and limbs fantastically. Adventurous vines ramble through

the interspaces, linking trunk to trunk and complicating the fine

confusion. All around is a multitudinous, incessant struggle for life;

but it goes on in silence, and the impression left is not regret, but

a memory of beauty. The columnar dignity of the great trees contrasts

with the press and struggle of the undergrowth, with the airy lace-work

of fern fronds, and the shafted grace of the stiffer palm-trees. From

the moss and wandering lycopodium underfoot, to the victorious climber

flowering eighty feet overhead, all is life, varied endlessly and put

forth without stint. Of course there is death at work around you, too;

but who notes the dying amid such a riot of energy? The earth itself

smells moist and fresh. What seems an odour blended of resin, sappy

wood, damp leaves, and brown tinder, hangs in the air. But the leafy

roof is lofty enough, and the air cool and pure enough, to save you

from the sweltering oppressiveness of an equatorial jungle. The dim

entanglement is a quiet world, shut within itself and full of shadows.

Yet, in bright weather, rays of sunshine shoot here and there against

brown and grey bark, and clots of golden light, dripping through the

foliage, dance on vivid mosses and the root-enlacement of the earth.

“The forest rears on lifted arms

Its leafy dome whence verdurous light

Shakes through the shady depths and warms

Proud trunk and stealthy parasite.

There where those cruel coils enclasp

The trees they strangle in their grasp.”

When the sky is overcast the evergreen realm darkens. In one mood you

think it invitingly still and mysterious; in another, its tints fade

to a common dulness, and gloom fills its recesses. Pattering raindrops

chill enthusiasm. The mazy paradise is filled with “the terror of

unending trees.” The silence grows unnatural, the rustle of a chance

bird startles. Anything from a python to a jaguar might be hidden in

labyrinths that look so tropical. In truth there is nothing there

larger than a wingless and timid bird; nothing more dangerous than a

rat poaching among the branches in quest of eggs; nothing more annoying

than a few sandflies.

The European’s eye instinctively wanders over the foliage in search

of likenesses to the flora of northern lands. He may think he detects

a darker willow in the tawa, a brighter and taller yew in the matai,

a giant box in the rata, a browner laburnum in the kowhai, a slender

deodar in the rimu, and, by the sea, a scarlet-flowering ilex in

the pohutu-kawa. The sub-alpine beech forests are indeed European,

inferior though our small-leaved beeches are to the English. You see in

them wide-spreading branches, an absence of underbrush and luxuriant

climbers, and a steady repetition of the same sort and condition of

tree, all recalling Europe. Elsewhere there is little that does this.

In the guide-books you constantly encounter the word “pine,” but

you will look round in vain for anything like the firs of Scotland,

the maritime pines of Gascony, or the black and monotonous woods of

Prussia. The nikau-palm, tree-fern, and palm-lily, the serpentine

and leafy parasites, and such extraordinary foliage as that of the

lance-wood, rewa-rewa, and two or three kinds of panax, add a hundred

distinctive details to the broad impression of difference.

[Illustration: AMONG THE KAURI]

I suppose that most New Zealanders, if asked to name the finest trees

of their forest, would declare for the kauri and the totara. Some

might add the puriri to these. But then the average New Zealander

is a practical person and is apt to estimate a forest-tree in terms

of sawn timber. Not that a full-grown kauri is other than a great

and very interesting tree. Its spreading branches and dark crown of

glossy-green leaves, lifted above its fellows of the woodland, like

Saul’s head above the people, catch and hold the eye at once. And the

great column of its trunk impresses you like the pillar of an Egyptian

temple, not by classic grace, but by a rotund bulk, sheer size and

weight speaking of massive antiquity. It is not their height that makes

even the greatest of the kauri tribe remarkable, for one hundred and

fifty feet is nothing extraordinary. But their picked giants measure

sixty-six feet in circumference, with a diameter that, at least in one

case, has reached twenty-four. Moreover, the smooth grey trunks

rise eighty or even a hundred feet without the interruption of a single

branch. And when you come to the branches, they are as large as trees:

some have been measured and found to be four feet through. Then, though

the foliage is none too dense, each leaf is of a fair size. From their

lofty roof above your head to the subsoil below your feet, all is

odorous of resin. Leaves and twigs smell of it; it forms lumps in the

forks, oozes from the trunk and mixes with the earth--the swelling

humus composed of flakes of decayed bark dropped through the slow

centuries. There are still kauri pines in plenty that must have been

vigorous saplings when William the Norman was afforesting south-western

Hampshire. The giants just spoken of are survivors from ages far more

remote. For they may have been tall trees when cedars were being hewn

on Lebanon for King Solomon’s temple. And then the kauri has a pathetic

interest: it is doomed. At the present rate of consumption the supply

will not last ten years. Commercially it is too valuable to be allowed

to live undisturbed, and too slow of growth to make it worth the while

of a money-making generation to grow it. Even the young “rickers” are

callously slashed and burned away. Who regards a stem that may be

valuable a quarter of a century hence, or a seedling that will not be

worth money during the first half of the twentieth century? So the

kauri, like the African elephant, the whale, and the bison, seems

likely to become a rare survival. It will be kept to be looked at

in a few State reserves. Then men may remember that once upon a time

virtually all the town of Auckland was built of kauri timber, and that

Von Hochstetter, riding through a freshly burned kauri “bush,” found

the air charged with a smell as of frankincense and myrrh.

Nor is the totara other than a king of the woods, albeit a lesser

monarch than the giant. Its brown shaggy trunk looks best, to my

thinking, when wrapped in a rough overcoat of lichens, air-lilies,

climbing ferns, lianas, and embracing rootlets. Such a tree, from

waist to crown, is often a world of shaggy greenery, where its own

bristling, bushy foliage may be lit up by the crimson of the florid

rata, or the starry whiteness of other climbers. The beauty of the

totara is not external only. Its brown wood is handsome, and a polished

piece of knotty or mottled totara almost vies with mottled kauri in the

cabinet-maker’s esteem.

For utility no wood in the islands, perhaps, surpasses that of the

puriri, the teak of the country. One is tempted to say that it should

be made a penal offence to burn a tree at once so serviceable and so

difficult to replace. A tall puriri, too, with its fresh-green leaves

and rose-tinted flowers, is a cheering sight, especially when you see,

as you sometimes do, healthy specimens which have somehow managed to

survive the cutting down and burning of the other forest trees, and

stand in fields from which the bush has been cleared away.

[Illustration: POHUTUKAWA IN BLOOM, WHANGAROA HARBOUR]

Yet none of the three trees named seems to me to equal in beauty

or distinction certain other chieftains of the forest. Surely the

cedar-like rimu--_silvæ filia nobilis_,--with its delicate drooping

foliage and air of slender grace, and the more compact titoki with

polished curving leaves and black-and-crimson berries, are not easily

to be matched. And surpassing even these in brilliance and strangeness

are a whole group of the iron-heart family, ratas with flowers

blood-red or white, and their cousin the “spray-sprinkled” pohutu-kawa.

The last-named, like the kauri, puriri, tawari, and tarairi, is a

northerner, and does not love the South Island, though a stray specimen

or two have been found in Banks’ Peninsula. But the rata, though

shunning the dry mid-eastern coast of the South Island, ventures much

nearer the Antarctic. The variety named _lucida_ grows in Stewart

Island, and forms a kind of jungle in the Auckland Isles, where, beaten

on its knees by the furious gales, it goes down, so to speak, on all

fours, and, lifting only its crown, spreads in bent thickets in a

climate as wet and stormy as that of the moors of Cumberland.

The rata of the south would, but for its flowers, be an ordinary tree

enough, very hard, very slow in growing, and carrying leaves somewhat

like those of the English box-tree. But when in flower in the later

summer, it crowns the western forests with glory, and lights up

mountain passes and slopes with sheets of crimson. The splendour of the

flower comes not from its petals, but from what Kirk the botanist calls

“the fiery crimson filaments of its innumerable stamens,” standing as

they do in red crests, or hanging downward in feathery fringes. To win

full admiration the rata must be seen where it spreads in profusion,

staining cliffs, sprinkling the dark-green tree-tops with blood, and

anon seeming in the distance to be massed in cushions of soft red.

Trees have been found bearing golden flowers, but such are very rare.

The rata _lucida_ does not climb other trees. Another and even

brighter species, the florid rata, is a climbing plant, and so are two

white-flowered kinds named _albiflora_ and _scandens_, both beautiful

in their way, but lacking the distinction of the blood-hued species,

for white is only too common a colour in our forest flora. The florid

rata, on the other hand, is perhaps the most brilliant of the tribe.

Winding its way up to the light, it climbs to the green roof of the

forest, and there flaunts a bold scarlet like the crest of some gay

bird of the Tropics. It is a snake-like vine, and, vine like, yields a

pale rose-tinted drink, which with a little make-believe may be likened

to rough cider. Rata wine, however, is not crushed from grapes, but

drawn from the vine-stem. Mr. Laing states that as much as a gallon and

a half of liquid has dripped from a piece of the stem four feet long,

after it had been cut and kept dry for three weeks.

But the most famous rata is neither the vine nor the tree of the

south. It is the tree-killing tree of the North Island, the species

named _robusta_. Its flowers are richer than the southerner’s, and

whereas the latter is not often more than fifty feet high, _robusta_ is

sometimes twice as tall as that. And it is as strong as tall, for its

hard, heavy logs of reddish wood will lie on the ground year after year

without decaying. But its fame comes from its extraordinary fashion of

growing. Strong and erect as it is, and able to grow from the ground in

the ordinary way, it prefers to begin life as an epiphyte, springing

from seed dropped in a fork or hollow of a high tree. At any rate the

tallest and finest specimens begin as seedlings in these airy nests.

Thence without delay they send down roots to earth, one perhaps on one

side of the tree trunk, one on the other. These in their turn, after

fixing themselves in the ground, send out cross-roots to clasp each

other--transverse pieces looking like the rungs of a rope-ladder. In

time oblique rootlets make with these a complete net-work. Gradually

all meet and solidify, forming a hollow pipe of living wood. This

encloses the unhappy tree and in the end presses it to death. Many

and many a grey perished stick has been found in the interior of the

triumphant destroyer. In one tree only does the constrictor meet more

than its match. In the puriri it finds a growth harder and stouter than

itself. Iron is met by steel. The grey smooth trunk goes on expanding,

indifferent to the rata’s grasp, and even forcing its gripping roots

apart; and the pleasant green of the puriri’s leaves shows freshly

among the darker foliage of the strangler.

The rata itself, on gaining size and height, does not escape the

responsibilities of arboreal life. Its own forks and hollows form

starting-points for the growth of another handsome tree-inhabitant, the

large or shining broadleaf. Beginning sometimes thirty feet from the

ground, this last will grow as much as thirty feet higher, and develop

a stem fourteen inches thick. Not satisfied with sending down roots

outside the trunk of its supporter it will use the interior of a hollow

tree as a channel through which to reach earth. The foliage which the

broadleaf puts forth quite eclipses the leaves of most of the trees

upon which it rides, but it does not seem to kill these last, if it

kills them at all, as quickly as the iron-hearted rata.

[Illustration: NIKAU PALMS]

Our wild flowers, say the naturalists, show few brilliant hues. Our

fuschias are poor, our violets white, our gentians pallid--save those

of the Auckland isles. Our clematis is white or creamy, and our

passion-flower faint yellow and green. Again and again we are told that

our flowers, numerous as they are, seldom light up the sombre greens of

the forest. This complaint may be pushed much too far. It is true that

pale flowers are found in the islands belonging to families which in

other countries have brightly coloured members. Though, for instance,

three or four of our orchids are beautiful, and one falls in a cascade

of sweet-scented blooms, most of the species are disappointing. But

the array of our more brilliant flowers is very far from contemptible.

Over and above the gorgeous ratas and their spray-sprinkled cousins

are to be reckoned the golden-and-russet kowhai, the crimson

parrot’s-beak, veronicas wine-hued or purple, the red mistletoe, the

yellow tarata, and the rosy variety of the manuka. The stalks

of the flax-lily make a brave show of red and yellow. The centre of

the mountain-lily’s cup is shining gold. And when speaking of colour

we may fairly take count of the golden glint or pinkish tinge of the

toé-toé plumes, the lilac hue of the palm-flower, the orange-coloured

fruit of the karaka, and the purples of the tutu and wineberry. Nor do

flowers lack beauty because they are white,--witness the ribbon-wood

loaded with masses of blooms, fine as those of the double cherry, and

honey-scented to boot; witness the tawari, the hinau, the rangiora, the

daisy-tree, the whau, and half a score more. For myself, I would not

change the purity of our starry clematis for the most splendid parasite

of the Tropics. Certainly the pallid-greenish and chocolate hues of

some of our flowers are strange; they seem tinged with moonlight and

meant for the night hours, and in the dusky jungle carry away one’s

thoughts to “Rappaccini’s Daughter” and “Les Fleurs du Mal.”

For a bit of New Zealand colour you may turn to Colenso’s description

of a certain morning in early October when he found himself on a high

hill-top in face of Mount Ruapehu. Snow had fallen in the night and the

volcano was mantled heavily therewith. The forest and native village

on the hill on which Colenso stood were sprinkled with white, and,

though the rising sun was shining brightly, a few big flakes continued

to flutter down. Outside the village a grove of kowhai was covered

with golden-and-russet blossoms, all the more noticeable because the

young leaves were only on the way. Suddenly from the evergreen forest a

flock of kakas descended on the kowhais, chattering hoarsely. The great

parrots, walking out on the underside of the boughs to the very end

of the branches, began to tear open the flowers, piercing them at the

side of their base and licking out the honey with their brush-tipped

tongues. Brown-skinned Maori boys climbing the trees brought to the

naturalist specimens of the blossoms thus opened by the big beaks.

The combination of the golden-brown flowers and green forest; the

rough-voiced parrots, olive-brown and splashed with red, swaying on the

slender branch-tips; and the sunlight gleaming on the white snow, made,

with the towering volcano in the background, a picture as brilliant as

curious.

Whatever the dim flowers, purple fruit, and glossy leaves of many

of our plants might lead the imaginative to expect, the number that

are poisonous is very small. Only two examples are conspicuous, and

but one does any damage to speak of. Of the noxious pair the karaka,

a handsome shrub, is a favourite garden plant, thanks to its large

polished leaves and the deep orange colour of its fruit. It has been a

favourite, too, with the Maori from time immemorial. They plant it near

their villages, and they claim to have brought it in their canoes from

Polynesia. Botanists shake their heads over this assertion, however,

the explanation of which is somewhat similar to a famous statement by

a certain undergraduate on the crux of the Baconian controversy. “The

plays of Shakespeare,” said this young gentleman, “were not written by

him, but by another fellow of the same name.” It seems that there is a

Polynesian karaka in the islands where the Maori once dwelt, but that

it is no relation of the New Zealand shrub. The affection of the Maori

for the latter was based on something more practical than an ancestral

association. They were extremely fond of the kernel of its fruit. When

raw, this is exceedingly bitter and disagreeable--fortunately so, for

it contains then a powerful poison. Somehow the Maori discovered that

by long baking or persistent steaming the kernels could be freed from

this, and they used to subject them to the process in a most patient

and elaborate fashion. Now and then some unlucky person--usually a

child--would chew a raw kernel and then the result was extraordinary.

The poison distorted the limbs and then left them quite rigid, in

unnatural postures. To avoid this the Maori would lash the arms and

legs of the unfortunate sufferer in a natural position, and then bury

him up to his shoulders in earth. Colenso once saw a case in which

this strong step had not been taken, or had failed. At any rate the

victim of karaka poison, a well-grown boy, was lying with limbs stiff

and immovable, one arm thrust out in front, one leg twisted backwards;

he could neither feed himself nor beat off the swarm of sandflies

that were pestering him. White children must be more cautious than

the Maori, for though the karaka shines in half the gardens of the

North Island, one never hears of any harm coming from it. The other

plant with noxious properties is the tutu, and this in times past

did much damage among live-stock, sheep especially. Much smaller than

the karaka, it is still an attractive-looking bush, with soft leaves

and purple-black clusters of berries. Both berries and shoots contain

a poison, powerful enough to interest chemists as well as botanists.

Sheep which eat greedily of it, especially when tired and fasting after

a journey, may die in a few hours. It kills horned cattle also, though

horses do not seem to suffer from it. Its chief recorded achievement

was to cause the death of a circus elephant many years ago, a result

which followed in a few hours after a hearty meal upon a mixture of

tutu and other vegetation. So powerful is the poison that a chemist who

handles the shoots of the plant for an hour or two with his fingers

will suffer nausea, pain, and a burning sensation of the skin. An

extremely minute internal dose makes the nausea very violent indeed.

Of course, so dangerous a plant does not get much quarter from the

settlers, and for this and other reasons the losses caused by tutu

among our flocks and herds are far less than was the case forty or

fifty years ago. Strangely enough the Maoris could make a wine from

the juice of the berries, which was said to be harmless and palatable,

though I venture to doubt it. White men are said to have tried the

liquor, though I have never met any of these daring drinkers. Though

the most dangerous plant in the islands, it does not seem to have

caused any recorded death among white people for more than forty years.

[Illustration: ON THE PELORUS RIVER]

Our flora has oddities as well as beauties. Some of its best-known

members belong to the lily tribe. Several of these are as different

from each other and as unlike the ordinary man’s notion of a lily

as could well be. One of the commonest is a lily like a palm-tree,

and another equally abundant is a lily like a tall flax. A third

is a tree-dweller, a luxuriant mass of drooping blades, resembling

sword-grass. A fourth is a black-stemmed wild vine, a coiling and

twining parasite of the forest, familiarly named supplejack, which

resembles nothing so much as a family of black snakes climbing about

playfully in the foliage. Another, even more troublesome creeper, is

no lily but a handsome bramble, known as the bush-lawyer, equipped

with ingenious hooks of a most dilatory kind. When among trees, the

lawyer sticks his claws into the nearest bark and mounts boldly aloft;

but when growing in an open glade, he collapses into a sort of huddled

bush, and cannot even propagate his species, though, oddly enough, in

such cases, he grows hooks even more abundantly than when climbing.

Members of very different families, the pen-wiper plant and the

vegetable sheep are excellently described by their names. That is

more than can be said for many of our forest trees. One of these, the

aké, has leaves so viscous that in sandy or dusty spots these become

too thickly coated with dirt to allow the tree to grow to any size.

As a variation the para-para tree has normal leaves, but the skin of

its fruit is so sticky that not only insects but small birds have

been found glued thereto. A rather common trick of our trees is to

change the form of their leaves as they grow old. The slim, straight

lance-wood, for instance, will for many years be clothed with long,

narrow, leathery-looking leaves, armed with hooks, growing from the

stem and pointing stiffly downwards. So long, narrow, and rigid are

they that the whole plant stands like an inverted umbrella stripped

of its covering. Later in life the leaves lose both their hooks and

their odd shape, and the lance-wood ceases to look like a survival

from the days of the pterodactyl. At no time can it look much stranger

than two species of dracophyllum, the nei-nei and the grass-tree. Save

for the extremities, the limbs of these are naked. They reserve their

energies for tufts at the tips. In one species these are like long

wisps of grass; in the other they curve back like a pine-apple’s, and

from among them springs a large red flower having the shape of a toy

tree. Even the nei-nei is eclipsed by the tanekaha, or celery pine,

which contrives to be a very handsome tree without bearing any leaves

whatever; their place is taken by branchlets, thickened and fan-shaped.

The raukawa has leaves scented so sweetly that the Maori women used to

rub their skins with them as a perfume. Another more eccentric plant

is scentless by day, but smells agreeably at night-time. Indeed, both

by day and night the air of the forest is pleasant to the nostrils. A

disagreeable exception among our plants is the coprosma, emphatically

called _fœtidissima_, concerning which bushmen, entangled in its

thickets, have used language which might turn bullock-drivers green

with envy.

[Illustration: AUCKLAND]

The navigators who discovered or traded with our islands while

they were still a No Man’s Land have recorded their admiration of

the timber of our forests. The tall sticks of kauri and kahikatea,

with their scores of feet of clean straight wood, roused the sailors’

enthusiasm. It seemed to them that they had chanced upon the finest

spars in the world. And for two generations after Captain Cook,

trees picked out in the Auckland bush, and roughly trimmed there,

were carried across on the decks of trading schooners to Sydney, and

there used by Australian shipbuilders. In the year 1819 the British

Government sent a store-ship, the _Dromedary_, to the Bay of Islands

for a cargo of kauri spars. They were to be suitable for top-masts, so

to be from seventy-four to eighty-four feet long and from twenty-one

to twenty-three inches thick. After much chaffering with the native

chiefs the spars were cut and shipped, and we owe to the expedition an

interesting book by an officer on board the _Dromedary_. Our export of

timber has always been mainly from Auckland, and for many years has

been chiefly of kauri logs or sawn timber. There has been some export

of white pine to Australia for making butter-boxes; but the kauri has

been the mainstay of the timber trade oversea. Other woods are cut

and sawn in large quantities, but the timber is consumed within the

colony. How large the consumption is may be seen from the number of

saw-mills at work--411--and their annual output, which was 432,000,000

superficial feet last year. Add to this a considerable amount cut for

firewood, fences, and rough carpentering, which does not pass through

the mills. And then, great as is the total quantity made use of, the

amount destroyed and wasted is also great. Accidental fires, sometimes

caused by gross carelessness, ravage thousands of acres. “A swagger

will burn down a forest to light his pipe,” said Sir Julius Vogel, and

the epigram was doubtless true of some of the swag-carrying tribe.

But the average swagger is a decent enough labourer on the march in

search of work, and not to be classed with the irreclaimable vagrant

called tramp in Britain. In any case the swagger was never the sole or

main offender where forest fires were concerned. It would be correct

to say that gum-diggers sometimes burn down a forest in trying to

clear an acre of scrub. But bush fires start up from twenty different

causes. Sparks from a saw-mill often light up a blaze which may end in

consuming the mill and its surroundings. I have heard of a dogmatic

settler who was so positive that his grass would not burn that he threw

a lighted match into a tuft of it by way of demonstration. A puff of

wind found the little flame, and before it was extinguished it had

consumed four hundred acres of yellow but valuable pasture.

And then there is the great area deliberately cut and burned to make

way for grass. Here the defender of tree-life is faced with a more

difficult problem. The men who are doing the melancholy work of

destruction are doing also the work of colonisation. As a class they

are, perhaps, the most interesting and deserving in colonial life. They

are acting lawfully and in good faith. Yet the result is a hewing down

and sweeping away of beauty, compared with which the conquests of the

Goths and Vandals were conservative processes. For those noted invaders

did not level Rome or Carthage to the ground: they left classic

architecture standing. To the lover of beautiful Nature the work of

our race in New Zealand seems more akin to that of the Seljuk Turks in

Asia Minor, when they swept away population, buildings and agriculture,

and Byzantine city and rural life together, in order to turn whole

provinces into pasture for their sheep. Not that my countrymen are more

blind to beauty than other colonists from Europe. It is mere accident

which has laid upon them the burden of having ruined more natural

beauty in the last half-century than have other pioneers. The result

is none the less saddening. When the first white settlers landed,

the islands were supposed still to contain some thirty million acres

of forest. The Maori had done a share of destruction by reckless or

accidental burning. Other causes, perhaps, had helped to devastate such

tracts as the Canterbury plains and the kauri gum-fields. But enough,

and more than enough, was left; indeed the bush seemed the chief

barrier to rapid settlement. The havoc wrought by careless savages

was a trifle compared with the wholesale destruction brought about by

our utilising of the forests and the soil. _Quod non fecerunt Barbari

fecere Barberini._ To-day we are told that the timber still standing

cannot last our saw-mills more than two generations, and that a supply

which was estimated at forty-three thousand million feet in 1905 had

shrunk to thirty-six thousand million feet in 1907. The acreage of our

forests must be nearer fifteen than twenty millions now. Some of this,

covering, as it does, good alluvial soil, must go; but I am far from

being alone in believing that four-fifths of it should be conserved,

and that where timber is cut the same precautions should be insisted on

as in Germany, France, India, and some intelligent portions of North

America. Within the last two years great floods in Auckland and Hawke’s

Bay, and, farther south, two summers hot and dry beyond precedent, seem

to point the moral and strengthen the case for making a courageous

stand on behalf of the moiety we have left of the woods that our

fathers thought illimitable.

[Illustration: MOUNT EGMONT]

Something has already been done. Forty years ago Thomas Potts,

naturalist and politician, raised his voice in the parliamentary

wilderness; and in the next decade a Premier, Sir Julius Vogel, came

forward with an official scheme of conservation which would have been

invaluable had he pressed it home. Since then enlightened officials,

like the late Surveyor-General, Mr. Percy Smith, have done what they

could. From time to time reserves have been made which, all too small

as they are, now protect some millions of acres. In the rainier

districts most of this is not in great danger from chance fires. Nor is

it always and everywhere true that the forest when burned does not grow

again. It can and will do so, if cattle and goats are kept out of it.

The lavish beauty of the primeval forest may not return, but that

is another matter. The cry that Government reservation only saves trees

from the axe to keep them for the fire may be dismissed as a counsel of

despair, or--sometimes--as inspired by the saw-miller and land-grabber.

Of late years, too, both Government and public are waking up to the

wisdom of preserving noted and beautiful scenes. Many years ago the

settlers of Taranaki set an example by reserving the upper and middle

slopes of their Fusiyama, Mount Egmont. Long stretches of the draped

cliffs of Wanganui River have been made as safe as law can make them,

though some still remain in danger, and I am told that at Taumaranui,

on the upper river, the hum of the saw-mills is ever in your ears.

Societies for preserving scenery are at work elsewhere, and the

Parliament has passed an Act and established a Board for the purpose of

making scenic reserves. Twenty-five thousand acres have lately been set

aside on the Board’s advice, and the area will, I assume, be added to

yearly.

Now and again, in dry, windy summers, the forest turns upon its

destroyers and takes revenge. Dying, it involves their works and

possessions in its own fiery death. A bush-fire is a fine sight when

seen on windy nights, burning whole hill-sides, crawling slowly to

windward, or rushing with the wind in leaping tongues and flakes that

fly above the tree-tops. The roar, as of a mighty gale, the spouting

and whirling of golden sparks, the hissing of sap and resin, and the

glowing heat that may be felt a mile away, join grandly in furious

energy. Nothing can be finer than the spectacle, just as nothing can

be more dreary than the resulting ruin. A piece of bush accidentally

burned has no touch of dignity in its wreck. It becomes merely an ugly

and hateful jumble, begrimed, untidy, and unserviceable. A tract that

has been cut down and fired deliberately is in a better case. Something

more like a clean sweep has been made, and the young grass sprouting

up gives promise of a better day. But bush through which fire has run

too quickly is often spoiled as forest, without becoming of use to

the farmer. The best that can be done when trees are thus scorched is

for the saw-miller to pick out the larger timber and separate with

his machinery the sound inside from the burned envelope. This he does

skilfully enough, and much good wood--especially kauri--is thus saved.

The simple-minded settler when selling scorched timber sometimes

tries to charge for sound and injured portions alike; but the average

saw-miller is a man of experience.

[Illustration: TAREI-PO-KIORE]

As I have said, fire sometimes sweeps down upon the forest’s enemies

and carries all before it: saw-mills and their out-buildings are made

into bonfires, and the stacks of sawn planks and litter of chips and

sawdust help the blaze. The owner and his men are lucky if they save

more than their portable belongings. Nor does the fire stop there.

After making a mouthful of mills and woodcutters’ huts, it may set

out for some small township not yet clear of stumps, dead trunks,

and inflammable trash. All depends upon the wind. If the flames are

being borne along upon the wings of a strong north-west wind--the

“regular howling nor’-wester” of up-country vernacular--very

little can be done except to take to flight, driving live-stock, and

taking such furniture as can be piled on carts and driven away. Fences,

house, machinery, garden, and miles of grass may be swept away in a few

hours, the labour of half a lifetime may be consumed, and the burnt-out

settler may be thankful if the Government comes to his aid with a loan

to enable him to buy grass seed to scatter on his blackened acres after

the long-desired rains have come.

In an exceptionally dry summer--such an extraordinary season as came

in January and February of this year--the fire goes to work on a grand

scale. In a tract a hundred miles long, thirty or forty outbreaks may

be reported within a week. Settlers looking out from their homesteads

may see smoke and glowing skies in half-a-dozen directions at once. Now

the blaze may approach from this direction, now from that, just as the

wind freshens or shifts. Sheep are mustered, and, if possible, driven

away. Threatened householders send their furniture away, or dig holes

in the ground and bury it. When the danger comes too suddenly to give

time for anything more, goods are hastily piled on some bare patch and

covered with wet blankets. I have read of a prudent settler who had

prepared for these risks of fire by excavating a cave almost large

enough to house a band of prophets. After three years the fire came his

way, and he duly stored away his possessions in the repository. But

just as rain does not fall when you take out a large umbrella, so our

provident friend found that the fire would not touch his house. He

lost nothing but a shed.

[Illustration: MORNING ON THE WANGANUI RIVER]

If there appears any fair chance of beating back the flames, the men

join together, form a line, and give battle. They do not lightly

surrender the fruits of years of toil, but will fight rolling smoke,

flying sparks, and even scorching flame, hour after hour. Strips

of grass are burned off in advance, and dead timber blown up with

dynamite. Buckets of water are passed from hand to hand, or the flames

are beaten out with sacks or blankets. Seen at night on a burning

hill-side, the row of masculine fighting figures stands out jet-black

against the red glow, and the wild attitudes and desperate exertions

are a study for an artist. Among the men, boys work gleefully; there is

no school for them when a fire has to be beaten. Very young children

suffer greatly from the smoke with which the air they breathe is

laden, perhaps for days together. Even a Londoner would find its

volumes trying. Now and again a bushman in the thick of the fight reels

half-suffocated, or falls fainting and has to be carried away. But his

companions work on; and grass-fires are often stopped and standing

crops saved. But fire running through thick bush is a more formidable

affair. The heat is terrific, the very soil seems afire; and indeed

the flames, after devouring trunks and branches, will work down into

the roots and consume them for many feet. Sparks and tongues of flame

shoot across roads and streams and start a blaze on the farther side.

Messengers riding for help, or settlers trying to reach their

families, have often to run the gauntlet perilously on tracks which

the fire has reached or is crossing. They gallop through when they

can, sometimes with hair and beard singed and clothes smelling of the

fire. Men, however, very seldom lose their lives. For one who dies by

fire in the bush, fifty are killed by falling timber in the course of

tree-felling. Sheep have occasionally to be left to their fate, and are

roasted, or escape with wool half-burnt. Wild pigs save themselves; but

many native birds perish with their trees, and the trout in the smaller

streams die in hundreds.

Many stories are told of these bush fires, and of the perils, panics,

or displays of courage they have occasioned. Let me repeat one. In a

certain “bush township,” or small settlement in the forest, lived a

clergyman, who, in addition to working hard among the settlers in a

parish half as large as an English county, was a reader of books. He

was, I think, a bachelor, and I can well believe that his books were

to him something not far removed from wife and children. The life of a

parson in the bush certainly deserves some consolations in addition to

those of religion. Well, a certain devastating fire took a turn towards

the township in which a wooden roof sheltered our parson and his

beloved volumes. Some householders were able to drive off with their

goods; others stood their ground. The minister, after some reflection,

carried his books out of doors, took a spade and began to dig a hole

in the earth, meaning to bury them therein. Just as the interment

was beginning, a neighbour rode up with the news that the house of

a widow woman, not far away, had caught fire and that friends were

trying to extinguish the burning or at least save her goods. Whether

the book-lover gave “a splendid groan” I do not know; but leaving his

treasures, off he ran, and was soon among the busiest of the little

salvage corps, hauling and shouldering like a man. When all was done

that could be done he hastened back, blackened and perspiring, to his

own dwelling. Alas! the fire had outflanked him. Sparks and burning

flakes had dropped upon his books and the little collection was a

blazing pile. I have forgotten the parson’s name and do not know what

became of him. But if any man deserved, in later life, a fine library

at the hands of the Fates, he did. I hope that he has one, and that it

includes a copy of Mr. Blades’s entertaining treatise on the _Enemies

of Books_. With what gusto he must read chapter i., the title of which

is “Fire.”

[Illustration: ON THE UPPER WANGANUI]

Just as a burning forest is a magnificent scene with a dismal sequel,

so the saw-miller’s industry, though it finds a paradise and leaves a

rubbish-yard, is, while it goes on, a picturesque business. Like many

forms of destruction, it lends itself to the exertion of boldness,

strength, and skill. The mill itself is probably too primitive to be

exactly ugly, and the complicated machinery is interesting when in

action, albeit its noises, which at a distance blend into a humming

vibration, rise near at hand to tearing and rending, clattering and

howling. But the smell of the clean wood is fresh and resinous, and

nothing worse than sawdust loads the air. The strong teeth

of the saws go through the big logs as though they were cheese.

The speed of the transformation, the neatness and utility of the

outcome, are pleasing enough. Then the timber-scows, those broad,

comfortable-looking craft that go plodding along the northern coasts,

may be said, without irony, to have a share of “Batavian grace.” But

the more absorbing work of the timber trade begins at the other end,

with the selecting and felling of the timber. After that comes the

task of hauling or floating it down to the mill. Tree-felling is, one

supposes, much the same in all countries where the American pattern of

axe is used. With us, as elsewhere, there are sights worth watching. It

is worth your while to look at two axemen at work on the tree, giving

alternate blows, one swinging the axe from the right, the other from

the left. Physically, bush-fellers are among the finest workmen in the

islands, and not only in wood-chopping contests, but when at work,

under contract in the bush, they make the chips fly apace. Some of

them seem able to hew almost as well with one arm as with two; indeed,

one-armed men have made useful fellers. Sometimes they attack a tree

from the ground; but into the larger trunks they may drive stakes some

few feet from the soil, or may honour a giant by building a platform

round it. Upon this they stand, swinging their axes or working a large

cross-cut saw. Skill, of course, is required in arranging the direction

in which the tree shall fall, also in avoiding it when it comes down.

Even a broken limb is a serious matter enough in the bush, far from

surgical aid. Men thus struck down have to be carried on rough litters

to the nearest surgeon. In one case the mates of an injured bush-feller

carried him in this way fully sixty miles, taking turns to bear the

burden. Even when a man has been killed outright and there is no longer

question of surgical aid, the kindliness of the bushmen may still be

shown. Men have been known to give up days of remunerative work in

order to carry the body of a comrade to some settlement, where it can

be buried in consecrated ground. Accidents are common enough in the

bush. Only last year an “old hand” fell a victim to mischance after

forty years of a bushman’s life. Slipping on a prostrate trunk he fell

on the sharp edge of his axe, and was discovered lying there dead in

solitude.

[Illustration: WAIRUA FALLS]

When the tree has been felled and cross-cut and the branches lopped

off, the log may be lying many miles from the mill. Hills and ravines

may have to be crossed or avoided. Orpheus with his lute would be

invaluable to the New Zealand saw-miller. The local poet, though fond

enough of addressing his stanzas to the forest trees, does not pretend

to draw them to follow in his footsteps. Nor are our poets on the side

of the saw-mills. So bushmen have to fall back upon mechanical devices

and the aid of water-power. Long narrow tracks are cut, and floored

with smooth skids. Along these logs are dragged--it may be by the wire

rope of a traction machine, it may be by a team of bullocks. Over very

short distances the logs are shifted by the men themselves, who “jack”

them with a dexterity astonishing to the townsmen. Mainly, the

journey to the mill is made either by tramway or water. Where a deep

river is at hand, floating timber is a comparatively simple business.

But more often the logs have to slide, be rolled or be hauled, into the

beds of streams or creeks that may be half dry for months together. To

obtain the needful depth of water, dams are often built, above which

the logs accumulate in numbers and stay floating while their owners

wait patiently for a fresh. Or the timber may remain stranded, in

shallow creeks or in the reeds or stones of dwindled rivers. At length

the rain-storm bursts, the sluices of the dams are hastily opened, and

the logs in great companies start on their swim for the sea-coast. A

heavy flood may mean loss to farmer and gardener, and be a nuisance to

travellers; but to the saw-millers of a province it may be like the

breaking-up of a long drought. They rub their hands and tell you that

they have not had such a turn of luck for a twelvemonth,--“millions of

feet were brought down yesterday!” As the rains descend and the floods

come, their men hurry away to loosen barriers, start logs on their

way, or steer them in their course. Wild is the rush of the timber

as it is thus swept away, not in long orderly rafts such as one sees

zigzagging along on the Elbe or St. Lawrence, but in a frantic mob of

racing logs, spinning round, rolled over and over, colliding, plunging

and reappearing in the swirling water. Rafts you may see in the

ordinary way being towed down the Wairoa River to the Kaipara harbour

by steam tugs. But in flood-time, when thousands of logs are taking

an irresponsible course towards the ocean, the little steamers have

a more exciting task. It is theirs to chase the logs, which, rolling

and bobbing like schools of escaping whales, have to be caught and

towed to some boom or harbourage near the saw-mill for which they are

destined. Otherwise they may become imbedded in tidal mud, or may drift

away to sea and be lost. Logs bearing the marks of Auckland saw-millers

have been found ere now stranded on distant beaches after a voyage of

several hundred miles.

Like axemen and log-rollers, the river hands who look after dams and

floating logs have their accidents and hairbreadth escapes. They have

to trust to courage and to an amphibious dexterity, of which they

exhibit an ample share. Watch a man standing upright on a log huge

enough to be a mast, and poling it along as though it were a punt.

That looks easier than it is. But watch the same man without any pole

controlling a rolling log and steering it with feet alone. That does

not even look easy. Some years ago, it is said, a mill hand, when

opening a dam in a rain-storm, fell into the flood and was swept down

among the released timber. Amid the crash of tumbling logs he was

carried over the dam and over a waterfall farther down stream. Yet he

reached the bank with no worse injury than a broken wrist! I tell the

tale as it was printed in an Auckland newspaper.

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