_----Every good his native wilds impart
Imprints the patriot passion on his heart;
And even those hills that round his mansion rise
Enhance the bliss his scanty fund supplies.
Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms;
And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms.
And as a babe, when scaring sounds molest,
Clings close and closer to the mother's breast,
So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind's roar,
But bind him to his native mountains more._
Goldsmith.
During our first day's journey, the road lay through a country so rich
and so level, that but for the deep indenting of the horizon, I could
have fancied myself in England. 'That would be thought a fine park even
in my country,' said I, as we were passing a princely place. 'Ah, stay
till you see the parks of Eredine!' said Charlotte.[20] It is not to be
told what superb conceptions I formed of these same parks of Eredine;
for my companion did not enter on the description. I thought Blenheim
was to be a paddock compared with them!
Towards evening, the mountains which had once seemed as soft in the
distance as the clouds which rested on them, began to be marked by the
grey lights on the rock, and the deep shadows of the ravine. The morning
brought a complete change of scene. Corn fields and massive foliage had
given place to dull heath, varied only by streaks of verdure, which
betrayed a sheep-track or the path of a nameless rill; while here and
there, a solitary birch 'shivered in silvery brightness.' The hill,
climbed long and painfully, rewarded us with no change of prospect; and
the short descent was immediately succeeded by a more tedious climb.
At last, in a narrow valley, which by contrast looked rich and inviting,
we beheld traces of human habitation; and the change of garb, of
countenance, and of accommodation, announced that we were now, as
Charlotte said, in her 'unconquered country.'--'The Roman,' said she,
'when he had bowed "the sons of little men" to the dust, was forced to
shrink behind his ramparts from the valour of _our_ fathers.'
I own that I was somewhat confused between my own perceptions and the
enthusiasm of my companion. Her eyes flashing through tears of joy, she
shook me triumphantly by the hand. 'You are welcome to the Highlands!'
cried she; 'to the land where never friend found a traitor, nor enemy a
coward!'
In spite of this burst of _amor partiae_, we were still almost a day's
journey from Charlotte's native place. The mountains had become more
precipitous, and the valleys more clothed, when my companion pointed out
the spot where we were to dine; and intimated, that we must there
exchange our carriage for a mode of conveyance better suited to the way
which lay before us.
The exterior of our inn was certainly none of the most inviting. The
walls, composed of turf and loose stones, were too low to prevent me
from plucking the hare-bells which grew on the top of them; and the
thatch, varied with every hue of moss and lichen, was more to be admired
for picturesque effect, than for any more useful quality of a roof. The
chimney-crag seemed composed of the wreck of what had once been a tub;
the hoops of which, having yielded to the influence of time and the
seasons, were rather imperfectly supplied by bands of twisted heath. The
hut was, however, distinguished from its fellow hovels, by a sashed
window on one side of the door, a most incondite picture of a bottle and
glass on the other, and a stone lintel, bearing, in characters of no
modern shape, the following inscription:--
16..W.M.T. Pilgrims we be ilk ane, M.M.B...07.
That passen and are gane;
Then here sall pilgrim be
Welcom'd wi' courtesie.
Before we could draw up to the door of this superb hotel[21], it poured
forth a swarm of children, more numerous than I could have thought it
possible for such a place to contain. I was prepared to expect the
savage nakedness of legs and feet, which was universal among these
little barbarians. For the rest, their attire was rather ludicrous than
mean. The boys, even though still in their infancy, were helmed in the
martial bonnet of their countrymen; and their short tartan petticoats
were appended to a certain scarlet or blue _juste au corps_, laced up
the back, as if to prevent these children of nature from asserting a
primeval contempt of clothing. With the girls, however, this point
seemed intrusted to feminine sense of propriety; for their upper garment
consisted either of a loose jacket, or a square piece of woollen cloth
thrown round the shoulders, and fastened under the chin only by a huge
brass pin, or a wooden skewer. The absurdity of their appearance was
heightened by the premature gravity of their countenances; which were
more like the grim-visaged babes in an old family picture, than the
animation of youthful life. In profound silence they stood courtesying
as we passed; while the boys remained cap in hand till we entered the
hut.
It consisted of two apartments; one of which I dimly discerned through
the smoke to be occupied by a group of peasants, collected round some
embers which lay in the middle of the floor. Into the other, which was
the state-chamber, Miss Graham and I made our way. It appeared to have
been hastily cleared for our reception; for the earthen floor, as well
as an oaken table, which stood in the middle of it, was covered with
_debris_ of cheese, oat-cakes, and raw onions, intermixed with slops of
whisky. The good woman, however, who was doing the honours, rectified
the disorder seemingly to her own satisfaction, by taking up the corner
of her apron, and sweeping the rubbish from the table to the floor.
Meanwhile she entered into a conversation with Miss Graham, in which
every possible question was directly or indirectly asked, except the
only one which on such occasions I was accustomed to hear, namely, what
we chose to have for dinner. But as it proved, this question would have
been the most unnecessary of all; for, upon enquiry, we learnt that our
choice was limited to a fowl, or, as the landlady termed it, 'a hen.'
While this point was settling, the head waiter and chamber-maid appeared
in the person of a square built wench, naked up to the middle of a
scarlet leg, and without any head-dress except a bandeau of blue worsted
tape. Having tossed a lapfull of brushwood into the chimney (for the
state-chamber had a chimney), she next brought, upon a piece of slate,
some embers which she added to the heap; then squatting herself upon the
hearth, she took hold of her petticoat with both hands at the hem,
tightening it by her elbows; and moving her arms quickly up and down,
she soon fanned the fire into a blaze.
Next came our landlord in the full garb of his country; and great was my
astonishment to see him hold out his hand to Miss Graham as to a
familiar acquaintance. Nor was my surprise at all lessened, when he
coolly took his seat between us, and began to favour us with his
opinions upon continental politics. Provoked by this impertinence, and
by the courtesy with which Miss Graham received it, I interrupted his
remarks, by desiring he would get me a glass of water. Without moving
from his position, he communicated my demand to the maid; and went on
with his conversation. I took the first opportunity of reproving
Charlotte's tame endurance of all this. 'What would you have had me do?'
said she: 'he is a discreet, sensible man, and a gentleman.'
'A gentleman!' repeated I.
'Yes,' returned Charlotte, 'I assure you he is my father's third cousin;
and can count kindred, besides, with the best in Perthshire.'
It was plain that Miss Graham and I affixed somewhat different ideas to
the word 'gentleman;' however, upon the claims of his ancestors, I was
obliged to admit this _gentleman_ to our dinner-table; when, after a
violent commotion among the poultry had announced mortal preparation for
our repast, it at last appeared. Our unhappy 'hen,' whose dying limbs no
civilised hand had composed, was reinforced by a dish of salmon (large
enough to satisfy ten dragoons), which Miss Graham with some difficulty,
persuaded the landlady that the stranger might condescend to taste.
Towards the close of our meal, our attendant pushed aside the panel of a
large wooden bed, which occupied one side of our apartment; and, from a
shelf within, produced a large cheese, and an earthen pitcher full of
butter, which she placed upon the table. Then, from the coverlet, where
they had been arranged to cool, she brought us a large supply of
oat-cakes. I fear I was not polite enough to suppress some natural signs
of loathing; for the girl, with the quick observation of her countrymen,
instantly apologised for the cause of my disgust. 'It is just for sake
of keeping them clean, with your leave,' said she; 'there's so many
soot-drops fall through this house.' In spite of this apology, however,
I was so thoroughly disgusted, that I heard with great joy the trampling
of our horses at the door; and immediately ran out to survey the
cavalcade which had been despatched from Castle Eredine for our
accommodation.
It consisted of three horses of very diminutive size; two of which were
intended to carry Miss Graham and myself, and the third to transport our
baggage. This last was caparisoned somewhat like a gipsy's ass, with two
panniers slung across his back by means of a rope that seemed composed
of his own hair. Into one of these panniers the _gille trushannich_[22]
pushed Miss Graham's portmanteau; and finding that mine was too light to
balance it on the other side, he added a few turfs to make up the
difference. Besides this domestic, we were each provided with a sort of
running footman[23], whose office it was to keep pace with our horses
and to lead them at any difficult or dangerous step; and our equipage
was completed by six or seven sturdy Highlanders, who, in mere courtesy
to their chieftain's daughter, had walked fifteen or twenty miles to
escort her home.
Thus guarded, we set out; our attendants, seemingly without effort,
keeping pace with the horses. With all of them Miss Graham occasionally
conversed in their native tongue; and I could perceive that they
answered her with perfect readiness and self-possession; but none of
them ever accosted her until he was addressed, nor could she prevail
with any of them to wear his bonnet while she spoke.
Henry's name was so often repeated by them all, that I felt no small
curiosity to learn more minutely the subject of their conversation. But
though I had resumed my Gaelic studies under Charlotte's tuition, I was
not yet sufficiently initiated to follow the utterance of a native; and
my friend had already begun to smile so slily at my questions concerning
her brother, that the very circumstance which awakened my curiosity made
me half afraid to gratify it. At last, looking as unconscious as I
could, I asked Charlotte on what subject her servant was speaking with
such ardour. 'My _friend_ Kenneth,' answered she emphatically, 'is
reminding me of an expedition of Henry's to extricate his nurse's sheep
from the snow. But talk to him yourself; he speaks English.--Kenneth,
poor Miss Percy cannot speak Gaelic; so tell her that story in English.
I know you like to speak a good word for your friend Henry.'--'If he
were here,' said Kenneth, making a gesture of courtesy, which did not
absolutely amount to a bow, 'he would need nobody to speak a good word
for him to a pretty lady.' He then related very minutely how Henry and
he had climbed the rocky side of Benarde; and, from a crag midway in the
precipice, had rescued the whole wealth of a Highland cottager.
'And do you in the Highlands think nothing of risking your lives for a
few sheep?' said I.
'Do you not think, lady,' said Kenneth, 'that I had a good right to risk
my life for my own mother's beasts? And you know the young gentleman was
not to be forbidden by the like of me. His life! I would not have
ventured a hair of his head for all the sheep in Argyll.' Then speaking
to my special attendant, he uttered, with great emphasis, a Gaelic
phrase, which obliged him to translate, signifying, that 'a man's friend
may be dear, but his foster-brother is a piece of his heart.'
'My mother,' continued Kenneth, 'would have lost the _best-beloved lamb
of her fold_, if Mr Henry had not followed me that day; for the frost
had seized me; and I would have laid me down to sleep for a far-off
waking; but Mr Henry drew me, and carried me, and I do not know what he
made of me, but the first sound I heard was my mother crying, "Och chone
a rie, mo cuillean ghaolach." Blessings on his face for her sake! for
had it not been for him, she would have had none but a fremd hand to lay
the sod on her.' Kenneth had obeyed his lady's command; and he now
modestly fell back, as if disclaiming further right to attention.
'Surely Charlotte,' cried I, 'you are the happiest sister in the world.
How deep, how indelible, are the attachments which your brother seems to
awaken! Though he has been so long a stranger among them, these people
are absolutely enthusiastic in his praise. It is strange! I never saw
any thing like affection in servants, except in a novel.'
Charlotte looked at me with an aspect of amazement; but she was too
polite either to charge me with the true cause of my ill fortune, or to
acquit me at the expense of my countrymen. 'Henry will not let his
friends here forget him,' said she; 'for, however engaged, he never
forgets them. He sends them advice, encouragement, reproof, and whatever
else they most need. Poor Henry! I remember a letter which he wrote to
acquaint me with one of the severest disappointments of his life--a
letter written in the midst of toil and bustle. It contained an order
for comfortable bedding for his bed-ridden nurse.'
'But how could your brother,--how could your parents allow a mere
prejudice to banish him from such strong attachments? Surely he could
have felt no self-reproach for giving evidence against a common thief, a
miscreant who attempted his life!'
'I don't know,' said Charlotte, doubtingly. 'Neil Roy was a well-born
gentleman; and in many respects a very honest man. Besides, where the
punishment is so unjustly disproportioned to the offence, it is not very
pleasant to be concerned in inflicting it. However, it was not that
affair alone which first drove my brother from home. Cecil was partly
right, and partly wrong, in the account she gave you. My mother, you
know, was a stranger; and though she was one of the best and most
respectable of women, yet it was natural that she should retain some of
the prejudices of her country. My father intended settling Henry in a
farm, or educating him for the church; but my mother, I believe, would
have thought either little less than burying him alive. However, she
must have submitted to necessity if the affair of Neil Roy had not
assisted her in persuading my father to send Henry away. Her health,
too, was so fast declining, that my father could refuse her nothing. So
poor Henry was made a peace-offering to my mother's relations, who would
never have any connection with her after her marriage with a Highland
rebel--as they were pleased to call the best born and the most loyal in
the land! Oh, Ellen! it sometimes goes to my heart to think he should
owe so much as a shoe-latchet to those who dared to look down upon his
father. But whatever may happen, Henry can never regret having obeyed a
parent.'
This little narrative was given with as much freedom as if Charlotte and
I had been alone, for our attendants no sooner observed us inclined to
talk apart, than they retreated to such a distance as left us at perfect
liberty. At last, however, they advanced, and the two _gillen comsrian_
took our horses by the bridles, while the rest began to clear away the
loose stones from the tract which was leading us round the brow of an
abrupt mountain. My eyes were involuntarily fixed upon a dell which had
no interest except what it gained from the certainty that a single false
step would bring me a hundred fathoms nearer to it. The golden clouds
that linger after sunset were still throwing strong light upon our path,
while the dell lay in deep shade. I was so new to Highland travelling,
that, in some alarm, I was consulting my attendant upon the expediency
of dismounting, when my attention was diverted by Charlotte. 'Benarde!'
cried she, with such a voice as, had my mother been on earth, I could
have cried, 'My mother!' I looked up; and saw between me and the glowing
west only a naked crag, towering above the vapour which was floating in
the vale.
Presently our path wound round the brow of the mountain which we were
descending; and, gorgeous in all the tints of autumn, harmonised by the
sober shades of evening, Eredine burst on our sight. Charlotte uttered
not a sound. She uncovered her head as if she had entered a temple; and
raised her eyes as if in thanksgiving which words could not speak.
I myself was little more inclined to break the silence imposed by the
scene. Far below our feet lay a lake, motionless, as if never breeze had
ruffled its calm. All there was still as the yet unpeopled earth, except
the gliding shadow of a solitary eagle sailing down the vale. A faint
flush still tinged the silver towards the east; to the west, the huge
Benarde threw upon the waters his own sober majesty of hue. But where
the shade would have been the deepest, it was softened by the long lines
of grey light that imaged the walls of Castle Eredine. Beyond, in a
sheltered valley, the evening smokes floating among the copse-wood
alone betrayed the hamlets, concealed by their own unobtrusive chastity
of colouring.
We continued to descend; and the woods gradually closed the scene from
our view. First, the birch drooped here and there its light sprays from
the crag; then gigantic roots of oak, grappling with the rock, sent
forth their dwarf stems in unprofitable abundance; lower, the vigorous
beech and massy plane threw their strong shadows, and, by degrees,
arranged themselves into a noble avenue. Yet this approach did not
peculiarly belong to Castle Eredine; it led equally to many a more
humble abode. Several of these were scattered by the way-side; and each,
as we passed, poured forth a swarm to welcome Charlotte's return. Every
eye shone with pleasure; yet all was calm and silence. No shouting, no
tumult; none of the sounds which, in my native country, announce vulgar
gladness, disturbed the quiet of the scene. The very children hung down
their smiling sun-burnt faces, and waited with sidelong looks for the
expected notice.
Issuing from the wood, the path now become a well beaten road, led us
through a few small half-enclosed fields of corn and pasture, to a sort
of natural bridge, or rather isthmus; the only access to the rock upon
which Castle Eredine projected into the lake. I must own, that its lofty
title, and Cecil's romantic tales of its ancient possessors, had
ill-prepared me for the edifice which I now beheld. A square tower, with
its narrow arched doorway, was the only trace which remained of warlike
array; and a range of more modern building, with its steep roof, into
which the walls rose in awkward triangles, and its clumsy windows,
through which cross lights streamed from behind, gave me no exalted idea
of the accommodations of Castle Eredine. It seemed, however, that others
found no want of space within its walls; for at least thirty persons, of
different ranks and ages, came forth to receive us.
The foremost of these must have attracted my attention and respect, even
though Charlotte's gesture and joyful exclamation had not announced her
father. Age had not impaired the firmness of his step, nor the erect
majesty of a figure Herculean in all its proportions. His eye retained
its fire; his cheek its ruddy brown; the snowy locks which waved from
beneath his bonnet alone betokened that he had already passed the common
age of man. The plumes by which these locks were shaded chiefly
distinguished his attire; for the rest of his dress was entirely
composed of the scarlet and blue tartan of his clan. Saluting me first
on one cheek, and then on the other, he welcomed me to Eredine, with
little more ceremony, and little less kindness than he received his own
Charlotte; then giving an arm to each, he led us into the sitting-room.
It was a large apartment, panelled all round. Each panel seemed to open
into either a cupboard or a closet,--the walls being thick enough to
admit of either; while each side was a little enlivened by a row of
windows sunk in recesses, every one of which might have contained a
dozen persons. But the gloom of this apartment was completely dispelled
by the blazing of a wood fire, proportioned in size to what more
resembled an alcove than a chimney, and by the cordial looks and kind
attentions which every one seemed disposed to exchange.
So little restraint did my presence occasion,--so easily and naturally
did Eredine, Charlotte, and even the servants, admit me to the
interchange of cordial courtesy, which seemed the established habit of
the family, that, before our substantial supper was ended, I had almost
forgotten that I was a stranger. Indeed, so well did they all understand
and practise the delicacies of hospitality, that, in less than a week, I
was as much at home as if I had been born in Glen Eredine.
In the spirit with which she constantly sought to impress me with
feelings of equality and sisterhood, Charlotte offered to share her
apartment with me, on pretence of its being the most modern in the
Castle.
'Since I have dragged you to the land of ghosts,' said she, 'I am bound
in honour to protect you as well as I can; and Henry has so modernised
my room, that no true Highland ghost would condescend to show his face
in it.'
This room was indeed furnished very differently from the rest, yet still
so that nothing incongruous struck the eye. Many of the elegant
conveniences of modern life found a place there; book-shelves,
drawing-cases, cabinets, all that can be imagined necessary to the light
employments of a gentlewoman, were supplied in abundance; but all were
of such substantial form and materials, that they seemed no intruders
among the more venerable heir-looms of Castle Eredine. A closet, opening
from our bedchamber, and stored with a small but select collection of
books, was appropriated solely to me.
When we had retired for the night, Charlotte, after a thoughtful
silence, laid her arm on my shoulder, and said, 'Ellen, there is a
caution I would give you; I should rather say a favour which I am going
to ask.'
'A favour, dearest Charlotte! I thought it had been decreed that all the
favours were to come from one side! Well! how can you hesitate so?'
'There is a gentleman whom you once mentioned to me, a--a mutual
acquaintance.'
Charlotte's complexion explained her meaning. 'Mr Maitland?' said I.
'Oblige me so far, my dear Ellen, as never to mention his name to my
father.'
'Certainly, since you desire it, I promise you that I never will. I am
persuaded that the reasons must be strong and well weighed which induce
you to use caution with a parent.'
'Yes, they are strong,' said Charlotte, thoughtfully; 'And one day
perhaps you may be satisfied that they are so. It grieves me, my dear
Ellen, to have even the appearance of a secret with you, but I am
satisfied that I am acting as I ought--that the happiness of--of my
life--that even your happiness----'
'Stop, dear Charlotte!' interrupted I:--'believe me I have no wish to
listen to any subject which can give you pain. Continue to do what you
think right. Only let me once more assure you, that I have no interest
whatever in Mr Maitland, except as in the best of men,--the most
disinterested of friends,--a friend whose kindness withstood all my
unworthiness. Oh Charlotte, if Mr Graham knew him as I do, he would let
no prejudice of birth, or of country, deprive his daughter of
happiness,--the honour----'
I was obliged to stop; for I had talked myself into a fit of enthusiasm,
and tears filled my eyes. A pleased smile played round Charlotte's
beautiful mouth; but she turned away without reply, as if unwilling to
cherish a hope which might prove fallacious.
I had some curiosity to know whether the only obstacle to her wishes lay
with her father; but I was deterred from asking questions, by
recollecting her language on a former occasion. Besides, I was afraid
that she might fancy I felt some interest in the disposal of Maitland's
affections.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 20: 'Near adjoining are the parks; that is, one large tract of
ground, surrounded with a low wall of loose stones, and divided into
several pans by partitions of the same. The surface of the ground is all
over heath, or, as they call it, _heather_, without any trees; but some
of it has lately been sown with a seed of firs, which are now grown
about a foot and a half high, but are hardly to be seen for the heath.
'An English captain, the afternoon of the day following his arrival
here, desired me to ride out with him and show him the parks of
Culloden, without telling me the reason of his curiosity. Accordingly we
set out; and when we were pretty near the place, he asked me; "Where are
these parks? for," says he, "there is nothing near in view but heath,
and at a distance rocks and mountains." I pointed to the enclosures;
and, being a little way before him, heard him cursing in soliloquy;
which occasioned my making a halt, and asking if any thing displeased
him? Then he told me, that, at a coffee-house in London, he was one day
commending the park of Studley in Yorkshire, and those of several
gentlemen in other parts of England, when a Scots Captain who was by,
cried out, "Ah, sir, but if you were to see the parks of Culloden in
Scotland!"'--_Letters from a Gentleman in the North of Scotland to his
Friend in London_, vol. i, p. 297.]
[Footnote 21: Whoever recollects the inns at C----i----gh and
B----rr----le, and no doubt many others, as they stood two-and-twenty
years ago, will be at no loss for the prototypes of Miss Percy's house
of entertainment. Later travellers in the Highlands may not find her
description agree with their experience. The 'land of the mountain and
the flood' has of late been the fashionable resort of the lovers of the
picturesque, and of grouse-shooting; the refuge of those who wish to
skulk or to economise; of fine gentlemen and fine ladies, who find the
world not quite bad enough for them. The accommodations for travellers
are of course improved. It were devoutly to be wished that this had been
the only change effected by such visitants.]
[Footnote 22: A packer.]
[Footnote 23: Gille cumsrian.]