The promenade of the town (a walk of shady trees in the midst of _la

Grande Place_) being filled with gay groups in every possible variety of

costume, offered a most amusing spectacle to a stranger's eye. We sat

there some time upon the hired chairs, which are in as great request as

at Paris. Here we found booths, kept by venders of tisanne, lemonade,

&c. who were, some of them, niched in little covered tubs, like

Diogenes. We were much stared at; but not with any rudeness or

incivility. We even imagined that we saw a more favourable expression of

countenance in the people of Lyons (while gazing upon the English) than

in those of Paris. In the latter we certainly did now and then discover

the signs of unequivocal hatred and dislike; and although they never

gave vent (in our hearing at least) to their ill-will in words, there

was a mute eloquence of eye, which it is difficult to mistake.

But to return to the promenade, &c. my petticoat of moravian work seemed

to catch the admiring observation of all the females who passed; and

indeed I ought, in justice to our British needlewomen, to remark, that

their performance is rarely equalled, and assuredly never surpassed, by

their continental rivals, however highly French work may be praised and

sought after by our capricious leaders of _ton_.

The confluence of the rivers Rhone and Saone here is reckoned to be one

of the finest things of the kind in Europe. We went to see it, but were

rather disappointed in its effect; for the late uncommonly dry season

had greatly diminished the pride of both these celebrated streams. It

takes place at a spot about half a mile distant from the town, and we

drove thither in a ridiculous hired vehicle, called a _carriole_, very

like a long four-posted bedstead, on wheels, with coarse linen curtains

for summer weather, and black shabby leather ones for winter. A seat,

resembling a mattrass, was slung on the inside, upon which the people

sit back to back, like those in an Irish jaunting car. The driver is

upon a seat in front, and manages two horses, which are generally

ornamented with frontlets, and knots of gay riband and bells. Our

coachman was quite a coxcomb, sporting smart nankeen trowsers, gaiters,

and yellow shoes of washed leather.

The women at Lyons struck us as remarkably ugly, and we actually were

unable to discover a single pretty face among them. We met a country

dame, stumping into town to partake in the gaieties of the fête, dressed

in a bright yellow gown, tucked up at the pocket-holes, so as to display

a full rose-coloured petticoat beneath, white stockings, black slippers,

a deep gipsy hat of Leghorn straw, and a white handkerchief with the

usual flowered border.

Nothing can be handsomer than this town: it much resembles Bath,

particularly in its environs, which are built upon hanging hills, and

embosomed in woods and vineyards. The convent of St. Michael, rising

among them, is very ugly, however, reminding one of a large Birmingham

manufactory. Here dwell _les Soeurs de la Charité_, and we were

informed that they really are of great use, and do much good in their

generation, which cannot, alas! be said of the regular nuns, poor

victims!

At night we went to the _comedie_. The theatre was dirty, and somewhat

shabby; all the light thrown exclusively upon the stage, as usual in

foreign theatres. The actors were really extremely good, and the

audience seemed a loyal one upon the whole, which was discoverable by

their seizing and duly applauding the several claptraps which occurred

in the piece they were exhibiting. It was _La partie de Chasse de Henri

quatre_--the first scene a beautiful part of the forest of Fontainbleau.

The story, though familiar to every body, seemed to interest all hearts,

ours among the rest. I confess that, for my own part, I was surprised by

feeling the tears coursing each other down my face, when I least

expected it; and yet I was a stranger and a foreigner! How must the

French, then, feel in the recollection of this and all the other

thousand acts of benevolence and magnanimity of their glorious monarch,

whose now beatified spirit seems to shed a guardian glory around the

heads of his descendants! We returned home immediately after the

representation of this piece, not staying the farce; and after taking

coffee, once more sallied forth to view the beautiful illuminations

which were displayed in honour of the day. The night was clear, warm,

and balmy, and the whole population of the city (a hundred and nine

thousand persons) seemed to be walking about, enjoying themselves

completely. The effect of the lights reflected upon the distant

vine-clad hills was singularly beautiful. I admired the costume of many

of the children here; they wore large shepherdess-sort of Leghorn hats

with very low crowns, wreathed with pretty roses, which harmonized with

their little innocent round faces remarkably well. The soldiers,

_paysannes_, and some of the _bourgeoises_, were dancing quadrilles

under the trees of the promenade, which was lighted much in the manner

of Vauxhall. There was a busy hum of voices in the air, swelling upon

the breeze, mixed with notes of animating music, and occasional bursts

of mirth and laughter, which, I believe, might have been heard for

miles. In short, the scene was a perfect carnival. On reaching our inn,

we saw the officers of the foot guards (who had been dining together in

the same apartment occupied by the _jouteurs_ in the morning) dancing

waltzes to the loud music of their own band, in which the brazen tones

of the trumpet were painfully pre-eminent. For want of female partners,

they had, some of them, taken off their coats, and dressed themselves up

in mob caps, shawls, and petticoats made of the dinner napkins. In this

strange costume they tore about the room, swinging each other in a

manner that disgusted while it made us smile. The master of the house,

who seemed to think all this very fine, wanted to know if _Madame_ would

not join in the merry dance? (meaning me); but Mr. B. quietly declined

the obliging proposal, saying, "I was not quite strong enough for such

an attempt just now." Upon which _Monsieur_ came behind me, and,

supporting me under both the elbows, almost carried me up the stairs to

the door of our apartment; so obsequious are the French to all women.

There is a proverb relative to our sex, which observes, that _Paris est

le paradis des femmes, le purgatoire des maris, et l'enfer des chevaux_.

I, as an English wife, however, can imagine no place to be a paradise

for me, which is at the same time a punishment to my husband; neither

could I taste perfect felicity, if it was purchased at the expense of my

brute fellow-creatures. But I do not mean tediously to moralize upon a

little _jeu d'esprit_, which has some wit and truth in it, after all.

Determined to make the most of our short time, we went the next day to

see the cathedral, which is of Moorish architecture. Within we found a

singular mixture of orders; the Corinthian, composite, Gothic, Saxon,

and a sort of nondescript, which (as we were none of us particularly

learned on the subject) we concluded to be the regular Moorish. The

whole body of this fine building appeared glowing with the rose and

purple tints of sunset, and the gold ornaments upon the high altar

actually flamed resplendent in this lovely light, as if they had been

formed of solid fire! The effect was produced by the stained glass of

the windows, of every possible variety of colour, magnificent beyond

all idea, and far different from any which we had ever seen before;

indeed, in attempting to describe their peculiarity, I feel that I have

done foolishly, as it is impossible to give my readers any adequate

notion of their extraordinary splendour and beauty. We did not so much

admire another curiosity exhibited here, which is a clock, from a niche

in the front of which, when it strikes the hours, a figure of the Virgin

suddenly protrudes, and makes a gracious inclination of the body; while

in another recess above there is a very paltry and shocking

representative of the Father, who also leans forward in the act of

giving his benediction. The attempt thus to embody the inconceivable

glories of person belonging to the unseen God is both absurd and

impious; yet surely not so much so, as the wish and endeavour of some

fanatics to shroud the ineffable mercy and benevolence of the same being

beneath a dark, chilling, and repulsively gloomy veil of severity,

wrath, and implacability. In both cases, the true features of the

Divinity are shamefully and ridiculously misrepresented. We also saw two

fine white marble statues of St. Stephen and St. John, both spoilt by

crowns of trumpery artificial flowers and tinsel, which gave them the

air of our "Jacks in the green" on May-day.

We returned to our hotel, when, after an excellent dinner, we tasted for

the first time fresh almonds, brought up in their outside rinds; they

resemble small withered peaches in a green state, and I believe,

speaking scientifically, that they are in fact a species of that fruit,

and are classed accordingly; we found them very good, resembling

filberts in flavour, and they are eaten with salt, in the same manner.

The next morning we bade adieu to Lyons; on the road from thence, at a

place called St. Laurent des Mures, we saw the women as well as the men

threshing corn, and this in the open air--a strong proof of fine

climate: we afterwards remarked the practice universally. There are many

walnut trees about here, but the country was flat and dull for some

miles. We now however passed over a heath, (where, as Shakespeare

expresses it, "the air smelt wooingly,") enriched by wood, and banks of

waving fern, bounded by some near mountains; there was a picturesque

view of a castle, upon the summit of a hill, embosomed in trees. These

objects were a great relief to the eye, after the eternal stubble fields

near Lyons. Here we observed ploughing performed by mules, which I

approved of much, when compared with the use of cows for these sort of

labours; the latter, poor things, are of such inestimable value in other

respects, that surely it is very unfair to require their services as

beasts of burthen. The roofs of the buildings in this neighbourhood now

first began to assume an Italian character, and to harmonize with the

ideas I had formed of the vicinity of the Alps, which were visible in

the distance; but the latter did not improve the landscape so much as my

hitherto untravelled eyes had expected, for they were so far off, that

they resembled clouds, for which I should certainly have mistaken them,

had I not been told what they really were. We here encountered a

peasant, who was thin enough to have passed for the Death in Burgher's

"Leonora:" his face was a mere skull, with a sallow skin strained over

it; his black eager eyes deep sunk in their immense sockets. I was quite

afraid of dreaming of him.

For several days past, we had taken leave of the peculiar costume of the

postillions, which is not much retained on this side of Paris. Cattle

now were seen of all colours; the country became more undulating and

woody, and the vineyards wore a very different and much more graceful

appearance, being trained far higher, not formally planted, (as I have

before described) but frequently twined around standard apple and other

trees, from which they hung in light and careless festoons, forming

altogether a singular effect of blended foliage. They are universally

trained in this manner in Italy; the French pretend that the produce is

thereby rendered less plentiful, and that what is gained in beauty is

lost in value: I cannot pronounce upon the truth of the assertion. The

walnut-tree grew here in increased profusion, mixed frequently with the

mulberry, forming an agreeable shade to the road.

We breakfasted at Bourgoin, where they gave us good provisions, but

charged in a most extravagant way. There is a great deal of marshy land,

and the inhabitants look unhealthy: some of them have _goîtres_ (or

glandular swellings) in consequence of extreme relaxation from the

moisture of the air. Two filthy girls waited upon us at breakfast: they

wore no caps, and their hair was in a most disgusting condition. We

afterwards remarked numbers of women, equally devoid of coifs and

cleanliness. _Apropos_ to the former, I certainly greatly incline to

prefer them to the more classical and simple fashion of wearing the head

wholly uncovered: there is something very feminine and pretty in a

white, neat, well-plaited cap, set off by a bright coloured riband and

smart knot; and I really think the French _paysannes_ knew what they

were about, when they so universally adopted that costume.

The country shortly changed to a scene of wonderful richness and beauty,

resembling the finest parts of Devonshire; but the view of an immense

crucifix rising picturesquely amid the woods gave it a foreign character

at once. Nothing can exceed the loveliness of this part of France; it is

indeed exquisite, and doubly pleasing from its rarity. The unusual heat

of the late summer (felt as sensibly as in England) had dried up most of

the smaller rivers and brooks hereabouts, and the dust was actually

flying in their sandy channels. We were now in Dauphiny.

A few miles before we entered Beauvoisin (which divides Dauphiny from

Savoy), a very grand amphitheatre of the Savoy mountains rose suddenly

upon us. The sight was peculiarly striking to me, as I had never yet

seen the effect of this sort of scenery. We frequently observed

buildings here of the _pisè_ or mud, very neatly finished; indeed we

were surprised to perceive how much they had contrived to make of so

base and common a material. We met some countrywomen riding astride,

which had a very odd appearance--_odd_ is a vague term, and rather an

unclassical one: I am perfectly aware of its defects but I cannot at

this moment think of any other which would so well express my meaning;

yet confound me not, kind reader, with that mass of ignorant and

conceited persons, who always call every thing _odd_ which they

themselves either cannot understand, or to which they happen to be

unaccustomed. Such, for instance, whom I have heard designating Byron's

grand poetical conceptions as _odd fancies_, or the exquisite sketches

of Westall's imaginative pencil as _odd things_, or calling the truly

enlightened and liberal theological sentiments of Paley, Watson,

Fellows, &c. _odd opinions_. But I have rambled strangely from the

point; the little countrywomen and their nags completely ran away with

me! In spite of the _oddity_ of their position, I am ready candidly to

allow that there is a great deal of safety in it.

Beauvoisin is in the near vicinity of prodigiously fine scenery. We

passed through groves of the grandest chestnut trees, loaded with a

profusion of fruit, and the whole face of nature afforded such a superb

union of the beautiful and sublime, that we thought all we had

previously seen in France paltry in the comparison. The silkworm is much

cultivated here, and we saw many of the peasants employed in spinning

both silk and flax with distaffs and wheels; multitudes of women and

girls were seated at their doors, as we passed through Beauvoisin, all

busied in this occupation: they seemed to be chatting together very

happily, their tongues going as fast as their fingers. I thought of

Shakespeare's "spinners and knitters in the sun" telling "their tales."

We dined at the horrid little hole of an inn at this place, dirty, dark,

and full of the usual bad odours so prevalent in continental

habitations. The meal was served, as might be expected, in a slovenly

manner, and we were glad to proceed on our journey as soon as it was

despatched; previously submitting our luggage, &c. to the inspection of

the custom-house officers, having now entered the Sardinian territories.

We had not advanced far, ere the country opened, if possible, into an

increased blaze of beauty. Close to us were well-wooded mountains; on

the left, vineyards trained in the graceful Italian fashion I have

lately mentioned; far below us, on the right, was a limpid river,

sweetly winding though a valley, and on all sides villas (beautiful in

themselves and most romantically situated) lent an additional grace and

charm to the scene. The road was a perfect bower of walnut trees; and

the attractions of some of the peasant children, whom we now and then

met, with their large black eyes, and peculiar style of beauty, told us

that we were fast approaching the confines of Italy.

We now ascended a steep winding road, which leads to the summit of a

mountain called _La Montagne de l'Eschelles_. I find it more than ever

impossible to give any just and proportionate idea of the enchanting

prospects which every moment rose upon our delighted eyes! to conceive

them properly, they must be _seen_. We distinguished paths amid the

woody sides of the opposite heights, which looked as lovely as if they

led to Paradise; and I longed to spring from the confinement of the

carriage, and to explore their wild and exquisitely romantic

terminations, although the shades of evening, fast closing upon us,

might have rendered such an attempt most perilous. The low parapet wall,

erected within the last eight years by that mighty enchanter Napoleon,

(who seemed, while his "star was lord of the ascendant," to do all he

wished with _un coup de baguette_), preserved us from the danger of

falling down the precipice which yawned by the side of our road; and

also completely obviated the sort of nervous sensation which travellers

are so apt to feel while gazing upon the awful depths which surround

them! Upon turning a sharp angle, the rocks, in vast and stupendous

masses, rose perpendicularly above our heads, amidst which we were

amazed to perceive several cottages "perched like the eagle's nest, on

high." Rousseau has ably painted this incomparable scene, in his

_Nouvelle Heloise_, and I was gratified in thus convincing myself of the

accuracy and truth of his pencil. As we passed near these lonely

habitations, the breath of the cows belonging to the rustic inmates,

mingled sweetly with the scent of the leaves and aromatic herbs, and

added new fragrance to the soft and refreshing winds of evening. This

wild ravine was succeeded by the milder beauties of a green and mossy

bank, rising above smiling meadows; the contrast was striking. These are

sights indeed, which might arouse the dullest of mortals, and which make

the hearts of those gifted with sensibility and imagination swell high

within them!

Echelles, a small town, standing in a valley, completely hemmed in with

majestic mountains. We drank our tea and slept here at _La Poste_, and I

sat out, as long as it was prudent, in an open wooden gallery, (which

ran round the outside of the house, and commanded a view of the superb

scene), talking with the hostess, a cheerful, well-looking young woman,

who was overwhelmed by the number of her progeny. The youngest of the

children, a little girl of three years old, came up to me and laid her

head upon my knees, with the happy ease of innocent confidence,

chattering bad French with all her might; the mother also introduced two

of her sons to us (boys of five and seven), who ran in to bid her good

night before they went to bed, and to hug and kiss her. The youngest (a

fine sturdy rogue) told me that he always said his prayers, and that

after _le bon Dieu_, he loved "Maman." This woman, in the midst of her

rustic simplicity, had had the true good sense of presenting the Deity

to the infant imaginations of her children, under the attractive image

of an indulgent parent, thus fulfilling the sacred command of "Give me

thine heart." A convent of the Chartreuse still exists in the

neighbourhood; I believe it is the famous convent of _La Grande

Chartreuse_, a most interesting spot, but inaccessible to women. I made

inquiries about some of the natural productions of these mountains, and

learnt that so many superior simples and aromatic plants (_note_ A) grew

there, as to induce the apothecaries and chemists who lived within

reach, to come in search of them very frequently.

We left Echelles early the next morning (our common hour of rising being

five o'clock), and proceeded through a solitary road, winding at the

feet of some desolate-looking mountains. Passing by several deep

quarries of limestone, we soon arrived at the tremendous ascent, known

under the very appropriate name of _Les Eschelles de Savoy_. Here we

stopped at a lone hovel, to add a couple of oxen to our usual three

horses; but these animals being at work at the plough, we were obliged

to be satisfied with the assistance of another horse. A girl accordingly

brought him out, helped to arrange the traces, &c, and ran by his side

half way up the mountain, till we had attained the most arduous pass,

and then returned with him to her cottage. She wore her hair gathered in

a knot at the back of the head, in the true Italian style. As we toiled

along, we observed a _paysanne_, with a load upon her head (most

probably on her early way to some village market), stop to pay her

morning devotions at a shrine of the Virgin, rudely carved in wood, and

placed in a niche by the road-side. How shall I describe the wonderful

manner in which we climbed these frightful eschelles? We seemed to be

drawn up by our straining, labouring horses almost in a perpendicular

direction, and at a foot's pace. On our left was a yawning chasm of

immense magnitude, among a gloomy pile of frowning rocks, which might

well be the abode of some ancient giant or geni; while further on, these

same rocks, extending their mighty barriers on every side, seemed to

hang tremulously over head, threatening to crush the hapless traveller,

should sudden wind or storm arise to shake them from their

precarious-looking base. The blue heaven above us was nearly shut from

our sight by their dark and shadowy projections. Our guides (three or

four in number, and resembling, in their wild, strange attire and

features, a group of _Salvator Rosa_'s banditti) pointed out to us the

ancient road, passable, even in its best days, by mules alone. It was a

narrow ledge, with no defence whatever from the precipice on one side,

winding in serpentine mazes through deep grottos, or chasms, in the

bowels of the mountain. We saw a prodigious monument of Bonaparte's

daring genius in a tunnel, which had been cut through the heart of these

solid rocks, and beneath which a fine road was to have been made; but

his career of power having been so suddenly and awfully checked, the

work remains unfinished. After shuddering amid the sublimity of these

scenes for some time, their rugged character gradually softened upon us,

and the tender green of the fern, mingling richly with the tangled

underwood, began to make its welcome appearance. Far above our heads,

also, dark forests of lofty pine were occasionally visible, although the

lower crags of overhanging rock generally hid them from our view. At

length the prospect expanded into verdant pastures (where cows and goats

were peacefully browsing), shaded by beech, elm, chestnut, and apple

trees, and skirted by softly-swelling banks, covered with a rich and

mossy vegetation. The blue smoke wreath, frequently rising above the

tufted foliage, marked the vicinity of hamlets, and the little orchards

and inclosed patches of well-cultivated garden ground (seen here and

there), and the groups of women spinning at their cottage doors, gave

the whole an indescribable air of pastoral comfort and beauty. In the

midst of this serene enjoyment, my nerves were suddenly discomposed, by

the fall of our postillion from his horse, who had stumbled, and now

took the opportunity (during his short interval of emancipation) of

looking in at the side window of the carriage; the last place certainly

in which I either wished or expected to have seen him. However, no harm

ensued, and we again proceeded quietly on our way. We could not but

remark the extraordinary luxuriance of the hedges here, rich in nut

trees, brilliant scarlet berries, convolvulus, blue bells, and other

wild plants. The master of the post-house in the midst of these

mountains seemed a great admirer of the magnificent genius of Napoleon,

and said (speaking of the tunnel we had lately passed), _que cet homme

la avoit bravè la nature_: he added, "that if he had reigned only two

years longer, he would have completed this grand undertaking; but now

all was at an end; for the king of Sardinia was not the sort of person

to carry on the daring plans of his great predecessor." The manner in

which this man described Bonaparte to have first conceived and

determined upon the work in question was strongly characteristic of the

decision peculiar to the latter. He was passing through the ancient

horrible road, with his engineer, stopped, and pointing to the

mountains, said, "Is it not possible to cut a tunnel through the

entrails of yonder rock, and to form a more safe and commodious route

beneath it?"--"It is _possible_, certainly, sire," replied the

scientific companion. "Then let it be done, and immediately," rejoined

the emperor.

I was romantic enough to mourn over the fate of the mountain stream

here, which (in common with many others we had seen) was so weakened by

long drought, that it had scarcely force sufficient to pour its scanty

waters over their rugged channel, and seemed to vent its complaint in

weak murmurs, as it flowed feebly along. The grand cascade, which feeds

its urn so nobly during winter, had now lost all strength and

magnificence of character. We felt the air very sharp, even in this

sultry season; and in the bleak months of the year I can easily conceive

that the severity of the cold must be intolerable. The grapes in such

regions are always small and sour; they were not half ripe at the

present time, and, indeed, never arrive at any perfection.

We breakfasted at _La Poste_ at Chamberry, a picturesque town, and

capital of Savoy, situated in the bosom of the fine scenery I have just

described. The tops of its surrounding mountains (which form part of the

endless chain of Alps) are hoary with eternal snows: they had a very

striking effect. It was at Chamberry that that strange, inconsistent,

wonderful creature, Rousseau, lived for some time with Madame de

Varennes: his house is still shewn. The charm which, while he lived, he

contrived to throw around the vices and frailties of his character, and

the productions of his bewitching pen, is now broken, the spell is

dissolved; but there are, nevertheless, immortal excellencies in many

parts of his writings which must make their due and deep impression upon

the hearts and imaginations of every successive reader, till time itself

shall be no more.

To return to Chamberry. There is no peculiarity of costume here, except

that the _paysannes_ all wear gold hearts and crosses; the poorer

classes of silver, lead, or mixed metal. We changed horses at

Montmeillant, and saw the fine river Isere, formed by the melting of the

snows. The same sort of grand scenery continued. There were several

charming _campagnes_ (or gentlemen's houses) amid the mountains, half

concealed by luxuriant woods. We longed to be invited (and able to

accept such invitation) to spend a fortnight at one or other of them, in

tranquillity and ease, in the society of agreeable, sensible people, who

would sometimes allow us leisure to indulge in the luxury of solitude,

and our own thoughts; for, without this latter privilege, one might just

as well be in a fashionable drawing-room, in all the sophistication of

Paris or London. It is among these scenes that Marmontel has chosen to

place his heroine in the graceful little tale of the "Shepherdess of the

Alps." But, alas! the poorer inhabitants of these fairy regions! how

unworthy of such lovely Arcadian retreats! Almost all we met were

squalid, filthy, listless, and indolent: a blighted, blasted, wretched

race, hardly deserving the name of human. Most of them were (in addition

to their universal hideousness) afflicted with the disgusting disease of

_goîtres_, to say nothing of total idiotcy, which is equally common

amongst them. Leaving Marmontel's lovely fanciful creations in the

clouds, from whence they came, these, these we found to be the "dull

realities of life;" and such realities!--my imagination actually

sickened at their idea. I will not hazard farther detail, lest I should

equally shock the feelings of my readers.

The mountains, as we approached Aiguebelle, became yet more lofty and

stupendous than any we had before seen; but they continued to wear the

same features of luxuriant beauty, even in the midst of the sublimity of

a grander scale of proportion. From their airy summits we could now and

then descry the fall of a narrow perpendicular streamlet, sparkling in

the sun like a line of melted silver. We reached Aiguebelle at four

o'clock, dined, and slept. The entrance to the inn was like that of a

cow-house, or large old rustic stable, and the accommodations within

were uncomfortable enough: not worse, however, than many which we

afterwards encountered in various places on the continent. An evening

walk, which we took here after tea, at the foot of the Alps, I shall

never forget; romantic, beautiful, and wild beyond even the dreams of a

poetical imagination. Passing through enormous masses of rock,

consisting of argillaceous slate, called _schist_, in the foreground (at

the entrance of a shadowy glade), we gradually ascended a winding path,

by which we traced an opening through the richly-wooded recesses of one

of the nearer mountains. Thick shady bowers of walnut trees (the largest

our eyes had ever beheld) formed an agreeable sort of twilight, shedding

a flickering gloom around, that well accorded with the pensive tone of

our minds, as we stole silently along, wrapt in unfeigned and warm

admiration of Nature and her wonderful creations, while a rippling

spring, murmuring softly amid the mossy grass, assisted the dreamy sort

of reverie that hung like a spell upon us! A fair green meadow lay

smiling at our feet; where notwithstanding the burning heat of the

season, the cattle were feeding on as rich a pasturage, as that which

skirts the Thames at Richmond. Far above (towering over our heads) were

the snowy peaks of the highest Alps, half veiled in clouds of floating

mist. I sat down upon a mossy stone, my companions stretched on the turf

beside me; the silent, deep, and soothing tranquillity was broken only

by the chirp of the cricket, the distant bark of a cottage cur, or the

whirring flight of the bats who now were beginning their evening

pastimes; one of them, in his airy wheel, almost brushed Mr. W.'s face

with his wings, as he flew fearlessly past. As the night advanced, we

were struck by the beautiful effect of the blazing weeds, which were

burning on some of the surrounding heights. At length we unwillingly

bade adieu to the enchanting spot, and returned to our inn.

We left Aiguebelle the next morning, rising at four o'clock, and

proceeded to St. Jean de Maurienne, through a narrow valley, inclosed

by a chain of the same mountains, which rose to the height of about two

or three thousand metres. A river, formed of melted snows, ran

constantly by our side, now brawling and foaming over the rugged stones,

now stealing silently along, in an almost imperceptible current, and

often seeming wholly exhausted, forming merely a narrow runnel in the

middle of its vast, sandy, rocky channel. Cottages were frequently

dotted about here, some of them perched at such an incredible height,

and apparently so inaccessible to human foot, that we could hardly

conceive them to be the habitations of our fellow creatures! How the

inmates continue to procure the necessaries of life from the adjacent

hamlets in the valleys below, I cannot imagine, unless they are drawn up

and down by ropes, in the manner which is so awfully described, in his

"scene on the sands," by that bold painter from nature, the author of

"the Antiquary." The singular and beautiful appearance of the opposite

rocks told us the moment when the sun had risen to a certain height, but

the first burst of glory from that divine orb, it was not our lot to

witness, as the east was hid from our sight by the overwhelming

mountains that surrounded us. I confess I was disappointed at this

circumstance, as the idea of beholding a perfect sun-rise had been the

chief inducement to me to quit my warm bed at such a preposterously

early hour, and to undergo with cheerfulness the disagreeable ceremony

of hurrying on my clothes by candlelight! However, I was in some measure

consoled by the lovely effect of the partial gleams, which played

occasionally upon the distant objects; finely contrasting with the

gloomy shadows of the dark ravines, and lighting up the spots of verdure

upon which they brightly fell, they seemed almost kindling into a blaze

of unearthly splendour. We passed here a small but romantic fall of

water; and soon afterwards encountered (in one of those narrow passes so

frequent among the Alps), and upon the brow of an abrupt descent, a

waggon, drawn by restive mules. These animals flew about the road in

every possible direction, rearing till they stood on end, kicking and

plunging in the most astonishing manner. The driver emulated their fury,

and I know not which of the parties was in the right, they were all in

such a passion together; we expected every instant to see their heels

dash against the glass of our windows, but our postillion managed with

so much skill and discretion, that we soon found ourselves safely _hors

de l'embarras_. We were somewhat surprised at his admirable coolness and

dexterity, as he was no experienced old stager, but on the contrary a

mere boy. Solomon, however, justly observes that wisdom does not

exclusively reside with white heads, as some veteran worthies have

fondly flattered themselves, and this will account for the _sagesse_ of

our little driver, which might otherwise have been discredited, perhaps,

by those, who constantly associate the ideas of youth and imprudence. I

believe that the same author goes so far as to assert, that "wisdom

giveth hoary hairs." I am not quite certain as to the accuracy of my

quotation, or I should at once feel sure that I had discovered the

reason why so many of our beaux and belles evince such a horror of

mental attainments. Talking of beaux and belles, we were now quite among

their antipodes; for never did I behold such a set of dirty, slovenly,

squalid, frightful creatures, as were perpetually crossing our path!--I

can only say, that (like Sancho Panza and his goblins) having once seen

two or three of them, I shut my eyes for the rest of the journey,

although I could not stop my ears against the horrid guttural idiotical

croak (resembling that of a choked raven) which they constantly

maintained, as they ran begging by the side of the carriage. Mr. B.

hoping to get rid of them, often threw out money from the windows, but

this only attracted a larger flock, and we soon found our sole refuge

was in pulling up the blinds the moment they appeared in sight.

We breakfasted at St. Jean de Maurienne, situated at the base of the

higher Alps: it was dirty, as all the inns in Savoy are; and they gave

us sour bread and butter, and muddled coffee, rather a mortification to

travellers, who (however romantic and enthusiastic) could not help

feeling that they should have better relished better fare, after having

gone three and twenty miles before breakfast! We met an Italian lady

here, just come from Turin; who assured us, upon our expressing our

admiration of Savoy, that we should think the scenery of Italy far more

beautiful: I could not at the moment believe in the possibility of her

assertion, and felt a presentiment that after having seen and compared

some of the most striking features in these countries, I should not

coincide with her in opinion; Italy (from all I had heard on the

subject) possessing a different character of beauty; but difference does

not constitute superiority: I should as soon think of comparing an apple

and an orange--both are good in their way. If any body takes offence at

the lowliness of my simile, I beg leave to refer him or her to that

delightful writer (at all times, and upon such various subjects),

Marmontel, who avails himself of the very same, and applies it in the

still prouder instance of human intellect.

The river Arque rushes impetuously through this part of Savoy; we passed

by a _voiture_ overturned upon its stony banks, the wheels in the air,

and front nearly touching the brink of the foaming torrent. The accident

did not seem to be a very recent one, as no people were assembled about

or near it. The Savoyards (those who are happily free from _goîtres_,

&c.) are seldom brought up to any other trade than stone masonry;

wandering about, following this _metier_ in an itinerant manner. Many of

the rustics appear well acquainted with the scientific terms of

mineralogy and chemistry. We conversed with a common cottager in

particular, who discoursed most intelligently upon the different

substances of which these mountains are composed. We suffered a good

deal of inconvenience from the dust, which flew here in such

overwhelming eddies, that it completely filled the carriage, and more

than once impeded my respiration most painfully. I could feel it

gritting between my teeth, and irritating the windpipe; and when we

attempted to close the windows against it, the heat thereby increased

became equally insupportable; the sun in these regions being so fierce

that it absolutely burnt us when we drew up the blinds: still, the

peculiar sensation of _weight_ in the atmosphere, from which we

experience so much oppression in England, seemed to be unknown in this

climate; there was an elasticity in the air, superior to any of which we

foggy islanders can boast, and the sky was perfectly Italian, of a deep

blue cloudless ether.

At St. Michel, a neat village (comparatively speaking), the peasantry

become more human; the _goître_ begins to disappear, and the countenance

to assume a more intellectual expression. Again the sublime effect of

the river Arque attracted our attention. It is a regular mountain

torrent, flashing and raving over tremendous rocks, with a rapidity and

fury difficult to describe. If it was thus mighty during the present

parching season, what must it not be in winter! The imagination shudders

at the idea of its desolating force. I could scarcely trace the affinity

of this element with the tame, slow, glassy, silent waters to which I

had been accustomed in my own country. It was like the sublime insanity

of a superb human genius, when compared with the almost vegetable

existence of a mere common plodding mortal.

The little narrow alpine bridges, occasionally thrown across this

terrific stream, were highly romantic and beautiful. At this particular

spot, dark forests of pine began to succeed to the more pleasing verdure

of the tufted beech. They extended to the remotest pinnacles of the

mountains, from whose brown sides, lower down, a number of sparkling

springs were seen to gush dancing and flashing in the sun. Great

quantities of barberry trees, and of the plant coltsfoot, were growing

wild here.

Crossing a majestic mountain beyond Modena, we were shewn the Devil's

Bridge (_note_ B.), three hundred feet above the river. We ourselves

looked proudly down upon it, from our eagle height, where we enjoyed the

benefit of a noble and easy road, made (as usual) by order of Bonaparte;

for which all travellers ought to feel deeply indebted to him. Not that

I attribute his works of this sort to benevolence rather than ambitious

policy: but whatever the cause, we _voyageurs_ have great reason to

bless the effect! The postillion seriously assured us, as we gazed upon

the above-mentioned bridge, that it was originally built by the arch

fiend, although he added, that "this had happened a great while ago."

Mr. W. attempted to laugh him out of so ridiculous a belief; but he

adhered to his point with immoveable gravity. I had always heard that

the natives of mountainous countries were peculiarly liable to the

impressions of superstition, and in this instance I had an opportunity

of proving personally the truth of the remark. We regretted that time

did not allow of our making a few more experimental researches into

these matters: it might have been very interesting to have collected a

set of legends from the mouths of the simple inhabitants; and I should

have had considerable amusement in tracing their similarity to those of

the Scotch Highlanders, the German, Swedish, and other fond believers

in romance. The king of Sardinia was at that time building fortresses

upon this mountain, and two thousand men were employed in the work.

We met some Italian officers at Modena; they were fine men, and had a

far more distinguished and gentlemanly _tournure_ than, the French. It

is astonishing how vulgar and gross in appearance and manner all the

latter were, whom we had yet had an opportunity of remarking. I had ever

thought the subalterns and captains in some of our marching and militia

regiments bad enough, but they were certainly much superior to the

French officers. This reminds me, that in our apartment at the inn at

Aiguebelle, we saw scrawled upon the walls a fierce _tirade_ (written by

some Frenchman) against that interesting work, "Eustace's Italy." We, of

course, were not much surprised at the wrath therein expressed; and I

myself think that Eustace bears evident marks of being under the

dominion of prejudice, in speaking of the French as a nation.

Crossing another mountain, not far from Lans le Bourg, we were made

doubly sensible of the prodigious altitude of our road, by comparing

the different proportions of the objects around: for instance, a

water-mill at work in the valley below us appeared like a baby-house,

and the stream which fell from the wheel not much more important than

what might have issued from a large garden watering-pot. The rocks here

were all wild, gloomy, and barren.

Arriving at Lans le Bourg, where we slept, we found the inn (_Le Grand

Hotel des Voyageurs_) clean and comfortable, which was a delightful

change to us, after the dirt and misery of those we had lately seen. It

stood a short distance beyond the little town, on the brink of a roaring

torrent. The host and his wife appeared flattered at our observation of

their neat establishment, &c., and told us that it was not the first

time their house had been complimented as being very like those in

England. The next morning we pursued our route through the same

magnificent scenes, and here we first saw a giant glacier, clad in his

spotless mantle of everlasting purity. At his feet (to give the reader

some idea of his stupendous height and magnitude) lay a town; the

steeple of its church did not appear taller than the extinguisher of a

candle, which it also resembled in shape. Amid these solitary wilds the

greatest variety of plants, flowers, &c. are to be found, and violets in

profusion during the spring. We ate some strawberries, gathered here by

the peasant children, for a large basket of which our host at Lans le

Bourg paid a sum in value rather less than three English halfpence. The

postillion and Christian gathered me large bunches of very fine wild

raspberries, as they walked up the steep ascent. We were now upon Mont

Cenis (_note_ C.), of celebrated fame. My husband collected for me a few

specimens of the lovely flowers which bloomed there, and which I have

since put by as relics. One plant in particular (wholly unknown to any

of us) I must mention. It is a poisonous but exquisitely graceful shrub,

with spiral leaves, jagged at the edges, and clusters of brilliant

scarlet berries, growing in the form of miniature bunches of grapes.

The postillion called it _la tourse_; but we did not feel quite sure of

the accuracy of his botanical knowledge. Near the summit of this

mountain we were shewn the spot where adventurous travellers sometimes

descend to the town of Lans le Bourg upon a sledge, in the short space

of seven minutes; whereas it takes two hours and a half to ascend in a

carriage, or on a mule. The precipice looked horrible beyond

description; yet the English frequently adopt this mode of conveyance

during the winter: it is called _la ramasse_, and the amusement of

sliding in cars at the _Beaujon_ and _Les Montagnes Russes_, in Paris,

was taken from this. As we continued to climb, the effect of the sheep

feeding amid the rocky ledges, upon the grassy patches of land far below

us, was curious enough. They appeared diminished to the size of those

little round, white, fat inhabitants of a nutshell, which sometimes run

races upon a china plate, or a polished mahogany table, after dinner. I

believe their names are not mentioned in the Newmarket Calender; but my

readers will know what I mean. We here beheld a fatigued pedestrian,

drawn up the steep path with much comparative ease to himself, by

clinging to the long tail of a strong mule, upon which another traveller

was riding.

The road over Mont Cenis is most superb: there are small houses at set

distances, where dwell a regularly organized body of men, called

_cantonniers_, whose business it is to keep the highway in repair, and

to shelter and assist all _voyageurs_ who may stand in need of their

services. This was first ordered and arranged by Bonaparte. Upon

reaching level ground, near the utmost summit, we were agreeably

surprised by the sight of a small lake, of the most heavenly blue (the

real ultramarine colour well known to artists), situated in the midst of

a little plain of verdant turf: it was quite a scene of peace and

repose, all view of the surrounding precipices being shut out. From this

quiet haven we descended with rapidity and ease, at the rate of seven or

eight miles an hour, with only two horses; while in going up on the

other side of the mountain, we found four unequal to drag us along at

more than a foot's pace.

We passed by the Hospice, originally built by Charlemagne, and

re-established by Bonaparte, who really put us in mind of the Marquis of

Carrabas, in the fairy tale of "Puss in Boots;" for if we saw any road

better than another, any house particularly well calculated for the

relief of travellers, any set of guides whose attendance was unusually

convenient and well ordered, or any striking improvement, in short, of

whatever nature, and were induced to inquire, "by whom all had been

done?" the answer was invariably, "Napoleon! Napoleon! Napoleon!" At

this Hospice there is a set of monks, who bear a high reputation for

benevolence and attention to travellers. A very lofty and majestic

waterfall shortly afterwards greeted our eyes, grandly beautiful, though

bearing no character of terror. It was the "roar of waters," not the

"hell of waters," so admirably described by Lord Byron, in the fourth

canto of his Childe Harold. The road here perpetually returned upon

itself, in zigzag windings, resembling the principle of a corkscrew

staircase, and was, in the midst of grandeur and sublimity, both easy

and safe.

The Alps, on the Piedmontese side of Mont Cenis, and to whose firm bases

we were now fast descending, were infinitely more stupendous, more

overwhelming in their proportions, and displayed stronger features of

actual sublimity, perhaps, than those we had seen in Savoy; but we all

thought them less rich in sylvan beauty, and far less enchantingly

romantic in their general character. Our wonder was not, as formerly,

mingled with delight; on the contrary, a shuddering sensation of horror

took possession of our minds, as we involuntarily turned our eyes upon

the various dark gulfs, and tremendous abysses, which yawned on every

side. It was impossible not to feel, at every turn, that there were but

a few inches between us and destruction. At length we reached the foot

of the celebrated Rocca Melone, or Roche Melon, which is allowed to be

the highest of the chain, and is nine thousand feet from the base to

the summit. We could now perceive a visible alteration in the costumes

of the peasantry; the men came forth in coloured silk or cotton caps,

with a long net bag hanging down behind, ending in a tassel: the women,

in flat straw hats, lined with pink sarsenet, and jackets laced in

front; exactly resembling those Italian groups of figures which I had

formerly seen in the drawings of Mr. W----m L----k. I recognised them

instantly as my old acquaintance, and felt myself in some measure _en

pays de connoissance_. Our postillion had the true features of the

Venetian Punchinello, and I almost expected to hear him squeak.

We dined at Susa (inn _la Posta_), and found it cleanly and comfortable;

the people excessively attentive and civil: in short, we looked upon it

as a most auspicious entrance into Italy. From Susa to San Giorgio our

driver was a regular Italian wag, and I suspected he had got a little

too much of the juice of the grape in his head, by the way in which he

tore along the road, to the amazement of every quiet passenger. At last

we called to him, to inquire the reason of his violent proceedings. "I

thought I was doing just what you liked best," was his answer; and it

was with difficulty we could persuade him that we were not among the

number of those English travellers who take delight in risking their own

necks, and the lives of their horses, merely for the sake of

"astonishing the natives!" This was the first and only instance of

intoxication which we had witnessed upon the continent.

The dress of the women near San Giorgio is picturesque; a short blue

petticoat, with several narrow, coloured tucks at the bottom, a high

laced cap (something in the style of the French _cauchoises_), and

bright necklaces, formed of boxwood beads, turned in an oval shape, and

highly gilt, so as to resemble massy gold. The men all wore cocked hats.

The verdure of the fields and trees here (the latter chiefly beech,

olive, and lime) was delightful, owing partly to the late rains, which

the people told us had fallen to the great refreshment of the

long-parched earth; the whole air was embalmed with the fragrance of

the limes: we had a strong sun, but at the same time, so reviving a

breeze, so soft, pure, and elastic, that I never remember to have

enjoyed any thing more, nor ever felt a greater degree of physical

animation. This sweetly-breathing wind might (by poets) have been

supposed the same which blew through the groves of Elysium. We now

passed by a fine ruin of a castle, built upon a rocky eminence, and

overhanging a brawling river. The peasantry in general were well

looking, but we still observed several _goîtres_ among them. Nothing

struck us at this time with higher astonishment than the convent of

Benedictines, an enormous, massive, dark pile of building, reared upon

the topmost height of one of the grandest mountains here, and frowning

over the valley below. I in particular remember this with the strongest

impression of wonder and admiration; it perfectly seized upon my

imagination, and involuntarily brought Mrs. Radcliffe's, and other tales

of romance, to the recollection of us all.

At St. Antonine, (I sometimes avail myself of the French names of these

places, as both French and Italian are equally used in this country), we

first saw two _paysannes_ with their hair twisted up _à l'antique_, and

in long transparent veils of black gauze, which admirably suited their

handsome dark eyes and eyebrows; this costume is sometimes worn over the

high cap, but it then loses half its graceful effect. It struck me that

if women in general were aware of the peculiar advantage and charm of a

long floating veil, which thus shades, without concealing, the features,

there would be but one style of head-dress in the world. In addition to

these bewitching veils, the country girls at this place (St. Antonine)

generally carry fans; we met several with them, made of bright pink

paper, covered with gold spangles, and it appeared to us rather an

incongruous implement in the hands of a village belle. Mass was

performing as we passed, at a church of true Grecian architecture; upon

the outside steps of which the people were kneeling with every symptom

of devotion. In going through a low valley beyond this town, narrow and

extremely confined by the tall hedge-rows, where the circulation of air

is in consequence impeded, we felt the heat almost intolerable; and the

atmosphere exactly of that heavy nature from which we have often

suffered during the summers of our own country. I must tell the truth

(as it is fit all respectable _travellers_ should do), and therefore am

compelled to confess, that in passing over the continent, I was

perpetually and forcibly struck with the defects of our English climate

when compared with others. Condemn me not, ye red-hot John Bulls!

remember that when the noble animal you resemble makes his fiercest

attacks, he always shuts his eyes, in common with every prejudiced

person.

At Rivoli, they were celebrating the fête of St. Bartholomew; many

pretty women and fine spirited-looking men were among the groups of gay

figures assembled there. The caps of the former were very remarkable,

being composed of lace in the form of a high Roman casque or helmet; and

worn over another of pink silk. The church was ornamented with flowers

and green wreaths; guns were firing, and a military procession going by

as we passed: some of the girls wore pea-green jackets and red

petticoats, some blue petticoats and white shift sleeves, and all had a

bouquet of natural flowers in their bosoms.

From Rivoli, we emerged into the fertile and widely extended plains of

Piedmont; the distant hills, richly tufted with woods, were studded

thick with white villas (or _vignes_ as they are called here), and we

now entirely lost sight of those hideous _goîtres_, which had hitherto

every now and then made their appearance, even in the midst of a

generally handsome peasantry.

The approach to Turin was highly beautiful, through a long avenue of the

finest trees; the town itself embosomed among gently rising hills, and

adorned by the river Po, glassy and smooth as a mirror, and so

transparent, that the banks and sky were reflected upon its breast,

unbroken by a single wave or ripple. The buildings are very high, many

of them extremely handsome, with white or coloured striped awnings to

every window, as a shelter from the noon-day sun. Our hotel (_Albergo

del Universo_) stood in the middle of _La Place du Chateau_, immediately

fronting the royal palace. The streets are clean, which indeed they

ought to be, since through almost all of them a stream of the purest

crystal water is perpetually flowing, contributing not a little, I

should think, to the health and comfort of the inhabitants. We found

apartments allotted to us in the _Albergo_ of great height and size,

with cove ceilings, and _en suite_; furnished with a curious mixture of

poverty and magnificence, and ornamented by some exquisite and well

chosen prints, from the designs of Poussin and other old masters; rather

in better style, it must be allowed, than those of most English inns,

where you find "Going out to hunt," "In at the death," "Matrimony and

courtship," and such things, hanging over every chimney piece. But we

found one annoyance here that almost disgusted me with Italy, in spite

of her miracles of nature and art, and brought back the remembrance of

English neatness and purity in a very forcible manner: I allude to the

circumstance of the vermin, which infest even some of their most

expensive establishments, and quite destroy the sensation of comfort.

There are other sins also in their household arrangements, which this

nation share in common with the French: suffice it to say, that both one

and the other are certainly the dirtiest race of beings I ever

encountered. I did not much like the smell of garlic, on entering our

hotel, where the host, waiters, and assistants, all puffed their _vile

rocambole breath_[5] in our face, as they bustled about, preparing for

our accommodation. Neither could I relish their method of cookery, and,

after the first trial, begged to have our future dinners drest _à la

Française_. I know not what my friend Mr. T. would say to this, who I

have heard vaunt his Piedmontese garlic truffles as one of the greatest

delicacies of the table. To do the people of this hotel justice, I

ought, however, to acknowledge that they seemed most anxious to please,

and appeared delighted when they succeeded. Nor did they attempt to

impose upon us in their charges, although they formed exceptions, in

this instance, to some other Italian innkeepers, by whom we were

considerably annoyed and disgusted; the system of cheating and

over-rating on their parts, and of shameless begging from the lower

classes, being in general carried to an astonishing excess; I must say,

that we found the French far preferable in these respects. The royal

residence here is a very magnificent and classical building, and _La

place de St. Charles_ is also very fine. The shops are universally built

beneath the refreshing shade of piazzas, which is a very necessary

circumstance, for the heat of the sun at noon would otherwise overpower

their inhabitants. No business seems to be done at that time, at the

public-offices, banking-houses, &c. Indeed the Italians say, _il n'y a

que les chiens et les Anglois qui sortent à ces heures_. We proceeded to

view the principal _lions_ the next day, and, amongst others, the

cathedral, which is a regular Grecian temple. The king's seat in a

gallery above the high altar, very splendidly adorned, but we agreed in

thinking that this style of architecture (although beautiful in itself),

was far less appropriate to a place of religious worship than the

gothic. In this opinion (which I remember to have expressed before, in

the beginning of my tour), I am not sure however, that we are not a

little tinged with the ideas of gloomy solemnity (as connected with

religion) peculiar to most of the northern nations; and I own (at all

events) that I am guilty of an inconsistency in taste, because I have

ever been a warm admirer of the bright, soft, and smiling type under

which a different mythology has represented death. The poetical

butterfly, bursting from its chrysalis, and soaring on triumphant wings

to heaven, strikes me as infinitely more rational than the horrible (and

low) taste which we have shown in selecting the skeleton as the most

proper symbol of the same great and glorious mystery! a sort of _rawhead

and bloodybone_ plan, unworthy of so enlightened a people as ourselves,

and which seems to answer no one purpose of religion or morality, if

impartially considered; but on the contrary to be well calculated to

poison the innocent minds of youth with aggravated and unnecessary

terrors, and to divert their attention from the nobler truths of

immortality!

In the evening we drove upon the Corso in a _caleche_, the same sort of

vehicle which we used while at Paris. The Corso is a pretty, cool, shady

promenade, by the side of the river Po. The upper classes of Turin take

the cool air of the evening here, every day, in their different

carriages; we observed no pedestrians above the rank of the

_bourgeoisie_. We met the king of Sardinia on horseback, not forming (as

is usual for sovereigns in England) the centre of a galaxy of stars and

ribands, but riding first, by himself, followed by an escort of five

gentlemen, among whom was his brother. He looked very earnestly into our

carriage, and returned our salutation by taking off his hat in a

graceful and courteous manner. He is a little thin man, apparently about

fifty-five, with a countenance expressive of good nature. The queen

next rolled by, attended by all her suite, in an old-fashioned heavy

coach and six, her coachman (big, fat, and important, sunk in his ample

box) and her footmen in gay scarlet liveries, gaudily laced. The

equipage altogether put me strongly in mind of that raised by the fairy

for her god-daughter Cinderella, where the coach was originally a

pumpkin, the coachman a fat hen, and the lackeys lizards! We saw shortly

afterwards, during this brilliant promenade, the prince and princess of

Carignano (who are adored by all ranks, and are continually active in

every benevolent duty), and the Spanish, Dutch, and other ambassadors.

The king shows himself to the populace in this manner every evening. We

attended the Opera at night; the price of one of the best private boxes

did not exceed twelve shillings, and the tickets of admission (being a

separate concern) were about fifteen-pence. In London one thinks a box

cheap at five guineas! The prince and princess de Carignano were

present: the theatre is called by their name, but it is not the

principal one at Turin; there being another upon a larger scale, which

was shut up during our _sejour_ at that place: it is never used but

during the carnival, or on some great occasion, in compliment to some

foreign prince. The Carignano theatre is, notwithstanding, a handsome,

spacious edifice, about the size of Drury Lane, and the scenery and

machinery carried on in far better style than with us in the Haymarket.

The drop curtain in particular caught my attention; it is an exquisite

painting, representing the Judgment of Paris, his figure beautiful and

graceful in the highest degree, and the drapery remarkably fine. The

Opera (_Il Rivale di se stesso_, by Veigi) was well got up, but we were

not much struck with the music, from the whole of which we could only

select one or two _morceaux_ to admire: there was a clever _buffo_

(_Signor Nicola Taci_), and a very agreeable _prima donna_, whose style

of singing and flexibility of voice sometimes reminded us of Catalani;

her name was _Emilia Bonini_. The ballet was extremely superior to ours

in numbers, and in minute attention to the accuracy of costume; but

there were no French dancers among them, and it is well known how

inferior in the comparison are all others. The _grotesques_, however, (a

species of dancers peculiar to Italy) were wonderful for activity and

strength: they consisted of four men and two women, who really appeared

to think the air their proper element rather than the earth; they flew

about in every possible strange attitude, but were totally devoid of

grace, to which, indeed, I believe they do not pretend. I found that I

had by some means formed a very erroneous idea of the usual conduct of

an Italian audience. I had expected to find a sort of breathless

silence, and a refinement of applause, wholly different from the

character of an English set of listeners; but on the contrary, they

clapped as loudly as any John Bulls in the world, and even hissed one of

the singers, who did not happen to please. I have subsequently mentioned

this circumstance to those who are better acquainted with the customs of

Italy, and learn that I have been quite mistaken all my life in this

respect. The house (as well as those in France) was dark as Erebus

which I cannot approve, for it evidently does not answer the purpose of

increasing the brilliancy and the illusion of the stage.

The next morning we drove to Moncallier, about six miles from Turin, to

call upon Madame N----, (an old acquaintance of our friend Mr. T.'s,)

for whom we had letters. The coachman was an insufferable gossip, and we

dreaded to ask him a question, sure that it would bring down upon us at

least a dozen long answers. We did not go to the English minister's;

that gentleman (Mr. Hill) being then absent for a fortnight at Genoa. We

therefore had not the pleasure of presenting him with those letters of

introduction to himself and other families at Turin, with which we were

furnished by the kindness of Mr. T. who was also formerly minister here,

and of whom the people still speak in those terms of enthusiastic

gratitude, which his benevolence richly deserves. It was highly pleasing

to me to listen to these details, nor were they imparted to us by one

person alone; his reputation appeared to be in the hearts and upon the

lips of every one who remembered him at all! But to return to our visit

to Madame N----: the vast expanse of fertile, fresh, and woody country

seen from the heights of Moncallier, with the Po winding in graceful

sweeps through the richest banks, is wonderfully like the prospect

boasted by Richmond Hill. I was national enough to admire it the more

upon this account, although I confess its superiority in the sublime

back ground of the distant Alps and glaciers. When arrived at the

termination of the carriage road here, we were informed of the necessity

of alighting, and of walking a short distance to the garden gate that

belonged to Madame N.'s _vigne_. This short distance proved to be

upwards of half a league (a mile and half), leading through a stony lane

of hot sand, (in which our weary feet sunk deep at every step), upon a

very long and steep ascent. The hour of noon (which I have already

mentioned to be intolerable in this country) rapidly approached, and the

scorching influence of the sun caused the drops to start from our

foreheads, and our hearts to sink within us, as we proceeded on our way;

to make the matter worse, I had attired myself that morning (little

dreaming of such a walk) in a smart Parisian costume, with a triple

flounce at the bottom of the petticoat, which by the time I had reached

the end of this lane, formed a very pretty receptacle of dust and sand,

scattering its contents most liberally upon my already blistered feet

and ancles; a pair of thin, small slippers, also, (which I unfortunately

wore) cut my insteps with their tight binding, and admitted at each step

the sharp points of flint with which our path abounded! The guide (a

bareheaded Piedmontese boy) did not understand above one word in ten of

what was said to him, either in French or Italian, speaking a wretched

and indistinct _patois_ himself, which was equally unintelligible to us.

He was a lively, arch little fellow, however, and made some amends for

having seduced us into attempting the walk, by his encouraging signs

that we should soon arrive at its termination. Indeed it would have been

useless to have gone back, as we had already advanced so far upon our

way; and there was no possibility of reaching the house but on foot. I

reproached him several times for replying only "_No_, _Signora_," when I

asked if such and such gates belonged to the _vigne_ we were seeking;

and could not help smiling at his desiring me to take courage, for that

in a few minutes he should leave off saying "_No_, _Signora_," and be

able to please me better by "_Eccola_, _Signora_:" at length we reached

the goal, and upon ringing, were ushered by two servant girls in their

_paysanne_ costumes, amid the barking of wondering dogs, into a romantic

garden, where flowers, fruit, vegetables, and grapes, all flourished

together without any attempt at regularity, forming a singular and most

agreeable melange. This _vigne_ commanded an exquisite and extensive

prospect of the plains of Piedmont, and the distant mountains. A grave,

respectable _femme de chambre_ now made her appearance, and speaking in

English, conducted us into the house, where in a few minutes Madame N.

herself received us with a degree of frank politeness, and a warm and

unaffected hospitality of manner, which was extremely pleasant to meet

with, and quite a novelty to those who like ourselves had been

accustomed to the reserve (I may say ultra-reserve) of many

Englishwomen. Both mistress and maid (the latter personage

above-mentioned having lived with Madame N. ever since she was a girl)

had a foreign accent and idiom, in speaking our language, although they

were really of English birth, and had passed their youth in the county

of Suffolk or Norfolk, I forget which. We were much struck with the

difference of this little country house from those to which we had been

used in England, it bore so completely the Italian character; all the

rooms were in _demi jour_, having the _jalousies_ closed, to shield them

from the sun at this sultry time of the day: marble in profusion

rendered their appearance doubly cool, brick floors and light green

stucco walls, still preserving the air of a cottage residence, in which

an English eye is surprised at meeting the former costly material. A few

beautiful frescos, and water-coloured drawings of mountain scenery,

evidently from the hand of a master, a gaily painted ceiling, and a

guitar thrown carelessly upon a pianoforte, told us we were in the land

of the arts. Passing into the small dining-room, opening upon the

garden, through a porch thickly shaded with vines, we saw the table

ready laid for dinner, to which we were cordially intreated to remain:

it was entirely covered with large vine leaves, spread upon the white

cloth, and amid which we perceived wooden spoons and forks, in a true

Arcadian style. Nothing could have a cooler or more refreshing effect

than this verdant board prepared for

"----all those rural messes,

Which the neat-handed Phyllis dresses."

We were not, however, at liberty to accept Madame N.'s invitation to

share her simple meal, having left our friend waiting dinner for us at

Turin. She told us of a late visit she had been making to the mountains:

their party consisted of a few intimate friends, who, joining in a sort

of gipseying scheme, hired lodgings for three weeks, at the humble

cottage of one of the poor inhabitants of these remote and solitary

regions. They carried their own cooking utensils, some provisions, and a

complete set of common earthen-ware dishes, plates, wooden spoons,

knives and forks, &c. These they presented to their host at parting,

whose gratitude and delight at the splendid gift, she said, were

unbounded. He repeatedly exclaimed, "too much! this is too much! what

beautiful things! they are far too good for me!" Their value in toto was

about five English shillings; but this unsophisticated child of nature,

used to every sort of privation, knowing but few wants, and totally

ignorant of the customs and habits of the rest of the world, really

imagined that it was a princely donation. The manners of the people in

these wild mountains are primitive beyond all conception, and their

morals so pure, their affections so warm, and their language so artless

and unrestrained, that they seemed as if just fresh from the hand of the

Creator in the beginning of the world! Altogether they had made such a

strong and touching impression on Madame N.'s mind (who is herself the

purest and most romantic child of nature), that she said she should

regret their society, and remember their singular virtues and innocence

as long as she lived. The advocates for the doctrine of original

depravity, and who deny that man is rendered vicious chiefly by

circumstances, might have been somewhat staggered in this "plain tale,"

so truly calculated to "put them down."

Speaking of the Italian character, and more particularly of their

excellence in the fine arts, she confirmed the truth of what so many

accurate and enlightened observers have remarked, namely, "that the

genius of an Italian is so peculiarly indigenous to his native soil, so

intimately and vitally dependant upon the favouring and animating breath

of his own ardent clime, as to faint, droop, and often wholly to wither,

in the chilling atmosphere of foreign lands!" Like the giant son of the

earth, who wrestled with Hercules, his power, his very existence, is

drawn wholly from thence. Madame de Staël, in her Corinne (that work,

whose kindling eloquence, depth of feeling, inimitable powers of

language, and historical truth, as a portrait of Italy, is so

universally admired by the best judges of excellence, and so clamoured

against by the tasteless and ignorant cavillers of the day), has

forcibly illustrated this truth; as has also Canova, in his own person.

Madame N. related an answer which the latter made to Bonaparte (who had

sense and elevation enough to appreciate this modern Praxiteles as he

deserved), upon being reproached for indolence, and want of professional

exertion while at Paris: "Emperor!--Canova cannot be Canova but in his

native Italy; she is the source of his inspiration; his powers are

palsied in the separation!"

We walked in the garden of this pretty _vigne_, after having partaken of

the refreshment of fruit and wine and water within, and were surprised

at the bruised and battered appearance of the grapes; they had been all

nearly destroyed a short time before, by a violent storm of hail; the

congealed drops of this destructive element being larger than a small

bird's egg, or a gooseberry! What a scourge to the poorer classes,

whose only wealth frequently consists in their vineyards! (_note_ D).

We now took leave of our friendly, though new, acquaintance; who, not

satisfied with having pressed us to pass a few days with her here, also

offered us the use of her winter residence in Turin, if we had staid

longer, assuring us we should find it more comfortable than a hotel.

Before I quit her, however, I should mention the curious difference

which she pointed out to us, in the necessary expenses of an Italian and

an English domestic establishment: the comforts, and even luxuries, of

the former clime being obtained at so much more reasonable a price than

those of the latter, as to seem almost incredible. She told me, that for

five or six hundred a year a person might keep two houses (one in Turin,

and one in the country), a carriage, a box at the Opera, an appropriate

table, and be able to receive friends under his roof with perfect ease.

Further up, among the more retired mountains, and relinquishing the

accommodation of a carriage, you might live most comfortably (although,

of course, upon a very small scale of establishment) for fifty pounds

per annum. She added, that in her own case, an income which gave her the

reputation of a "rich widow" in Turin, would not purchase her a decent

roof, and bread and cheese, in London. I have no means of ascertaining

that this statement is correct, or exaggerated; I merely relate the

circumstance. We found our friend, Mr. W., in expectation of our return,

at the hotel:

"We entered,

And dinner was served as we came;"[6]

for which we had a better appetite than could have been imagined, after

all our fatigues. The heat of the weather would not admit of our going

out till the evening had considerably advanced, when we again drove

about the town. The waiter (who, by the way, was one of the best looking

of his kind we had seen, being particularly remarkable for the elegant

expression of his countenance (if I may apply that word to one in his

rank of life), as well as the regularity of his truly Grecian features),

told us, that the late summer had been the most sultry that the people

of Turin were able to remember; and that he himself had found the heat

so unusually oppressive, that he had hardly been able to taste food

during the time of its continuance. Having occasion to write letters

this evening, we sent for materials, and by the appearance of the golden

sand which was brought to us, thought the river Pactolus ran through the

town instead of the Po. Ice is used in profusion here, in the

preparation of almost every beverage; and there are large meadows

overflowing with the clearest streams of water, kept solely for this

purpose. We went into a bookseller's shop during our stay, where we were

agreeably surprised by seeing a translation of Rob Roy upon the table,

which we were assured was much relished in Italy, and was extremely

popular. A proof (if any were wanting) of the intrinsic excellence of

the work, even considered without reference to its merits as a mere

national picture. We observed also a sermon, which had been preached

upon the death of our lamented Princess Charlotte; the style, as I

slightly turned over the leaves, appeared highly pathetic, and the

expressions of pity and regret very forcible and natural. It was

altogether a tender and soothing gratification to our feelings as

natives of England.

Priestcraft struck us to be the staple trade of the place; the swarms of

dismal, sly-looking, vulgar figures, in their black formal costume, were

beyond all belief, and the idea of a flight of ravens came into my head

every time I saw them. Passing by the market, we were astonished at the

quantities of peaches exposed for sale. They are as common in Italy as

potatoes with us. Some small ones of an inferior sort were then selling

at the price of four or five English halfpence for three pounds weight

of fruit. We went the next day, in the cool of the evening, to drive, as

usual, about the environs, and intended to have called upon the Marquise

d'A----(_née d'A._), for whom we had letters of introduction; but were

prevented by a violent and sudden storm of rain, thunder, and lightning.

The effect of its coming on was wonderfully grand and beautiful; a

painter would have been in ecstasies; and we were highly interested in

the sight. Looking back upon Turin, we beheld the town, and the

conspicuous convent of Capucins, their white walls starting luminously

forth from a background of lowering clouds of a purple hue, indicative

of the gathering tempest, which in a few moments darkened into the most

awful gloom that can be imagined. We put up the hood and leather apron

of the carriage, and drove rapidly homewards, while the clouds burst

over our heads, and the rain descended in absolute sheets of water. We

could not help being delighted with the refreshing change. If

Pythagoras's doctrine is true, I am convinced I must formerly have been

a duck; for never creature of that nature enjoyed the sort of thing more

than myself. The lightning continued for nearly an hour, accompanied by

tremendous bursts of thunder, louder than the loudest artillery, the

wind howling at the same moment as if in the depth of winter, which,

joined to the constant rushing sound of the rain falling from the

projecting roofs and broad water-spouts of the surrounding buildings,

formed the most sublime concert of wild sounds that I ever heard. We

were told that storms are almost always thus violent in the near

neighbourhood of the Alps.

Before I quit the subject of Turin, there are a few more observations,

which, however desultory, I will not withhold, although they sometimes

may relate to things which we did not ourselves see, owing to the

extreme heat of the weather, and the shortness of our stay. Among these

is the church of the Superga, which I advise every traveller to visit,

knowing how amply his trouble would be repaid by the very noble view

that it affords, and the peculiar interest and magnificence of the

structure itself. In a clear day the spire of the cathedral of Milan may

be discerned from thence, at the distance of eighty miles. To inspect

the convent, in all its details, it is necessary for ladies to procure

previously an order from the archbishop of Turin.

[Illustration: _London, Published by I, Murray, 1819._

VIEW of TURIN.]

The Colline de Turin, in addition to its natural beauties, presents two

other objects worthy of being seen: the Vigne de la Reine (a very

elegant little summer retreat), and the picturesque and romantic

convent, which is the burying-place of the knights of the supreme order

of the Annunciade, in the neighbourhood of which are found considerable

masses of that fibrous schist, called asbestos.

Bonaparte, it must be allowed, has made considerable amends for the

mischief which his army occasioned at Turin, by the handsome bridge he

caused to be built in place of a miserable wooden one, and by weeding

the country of its too numerous monastic institutions, a few of which

only have been restored by the present government. As the seeds of

revolutionary principles are apt to retain their vital heat, even when

apparently crushed beneath the foot of power, one cannot be surprised

that a good deal of unpopularity attends the present sovereign among

certain classes. But his truly paternal government is nevertheless

cherished with affection by many, as the following fact clearly proves,

which I learned from the most indisputable authority. There existed an

_impôt_, highly profitable to the revenue, but which the king believed

to be vexatious and unpopular. He was accordingly taking measures to

repeal it, when, unexpectedly, he received addresses from different

parts of the country, expressive of their conviction that this resource

to the revenue was necessary; and such was their confidence in the

certainty of his majesty's relinquishment of it, the moment the

situation of the finances would allow him to do so without

inconvenience, that they were content willingly to submit to it until

that period arrived.

We regretted not being able to visit Genoa, the magnificence of which

city, and its beautiful bay (the latter hardly inferior to that of

Naples), is much talked of. With respect to this portion of his

Sardinian majesty's new subjects, we were told that a considerable time

will be necessary to reconcile them to the loss of their independence.

We should have been glad to have availed ourselves (as I said before) of

our letters of introduction to Mr. Hill, had he been at Turin, as we had

heard much of the affable and amiable manners of the Piedmontese

nobility. I have, indeed, always understood that they were remarkable

for quickness and penetration. These latter qualities distinguish their

diplomacy at the several courts of Europe. From the abominable _patois_

which they speak, I should think both gentlemen and ladies must be

singularly clever and engaging, to rise superior to such a disadvantage:

it seems to be a corruption of French and Italian, and to spoil both.

They say, however, that it is very expressive: all ranks are much

attached to it, and (strange to relate) it is spoken at court, French

being only adopted when foreigners are present.

In this threshold of Italy, one expects to find a considerable progress

in the arts, nor were we disappointed. Painting, sculpture, orfévrerie,

music, &c. have attained to a very fair and reasonable height, and some

of their manufactures are particularly good; especially where silk (the

great riches of the country) is employed. Their damasks for hangings are

beautiful, both for patterns and colour. They are the common furniture

of all their best apartments, and exceedingly cheap; one third perhaps

of what they could be manufactured for in England, whither their raw

silk is sent every year to an immense amount, and under a no less

immense duty; a certain proportion of it is requisite to mix up with our

Bengal silks. The light gauzes manufactured at Chamberry are a very

elegant and favourite article of dress.

Several of the English nobility have been educated at the university of

Turin, which used to be the most considerable in Italy; the system of

education having been carried on in a most liberal and gentlemanly

style. There is a remarkable and interesting little protestant colony,

which also deserves mention,--the Vaudois, who, surviving the cruel

persecutions of the dark ages of the church, have for many centuries

(certainly before the twelfth) preserved their existence in the midst of

this catholic country, and within thirty miles of its capital. They are

a very quiet, moral, and industrious people. They owe their ease and

safety to the protection of some of the protestant powers, and

especially that of Great Britain, whose minister is particularly

instructed to attend to their interests, and to their enjoyment of the

toleration that is allowed them; they are, like our catholics, deprived

of many privileges; but lately his present majesty has consented to

allow a salary to their priests. Cromwell supported these people with

peculiar energy.

We left Turin the next morning. The fresh and balmy spirit of the air

was delightful, and we had a glorious view of the glaciers which hem in

this fair city, the new-risen sun shining brightly upon their snowy and

fantastic summits: the host went by, in early procession; all the people

as it passed dropped on their knees, in the dirt of the street, and

devoutly made the sign of the cross. We met two friars, whose

picturesque and really dignified appearance formed a great contrast to

the demure, fanatical, formal-looking priests, whom we had hitherto seen

in all quarters of the town. These friars were complete models for a

painter; their bare feet in sandals, rosary and gold cross by their

side, superb grey polls and beards; the latter "streaming like meteors

to the troubled air." We now paid toll at the first turnpike we had

seen during the last seven hundred miles. I believe I have before

mentioned that it was Bonaparte who abolished this troublesome system,

and who really seems to have favoured the interests of travellers in

every respect. The cottages in this neighbourhood were pretty, and many

of the little porches and doors were overgrown with the broad verdant

leaves of the pumpkin, whose orange-coloured blossoms had a remarkably

gay and rich effect.

At Settimo we saw a beautiful girl, with the true Grecian line of

feature, long oval cheek, dark pale skin (fine and smooth as marble or

ivory), curled red lips, with long cut black eyes and straight eyebrows;

her profile was not unlike that of Mrs. E., so celebrated in her day for

regularity of outline.

Between Settimo and Chivasco we passed over a curious bridge, formed of

planks, thrown across four boats, which were fixed immoveably in the

river, by strong cords fastened to posts. The shape of these boats, and

also of many we observed upon the Po, resembled that of an Indian

canoe. The turnpike was a little thatched hut, erected upon the middle

of this bridge. Refusing to comply with the importunities of an old

Italian beggar woman here, she poured forth a volume of various

maledictions upon us; being not at all inferior in this sort of

eloquence to the amazons of our St. Giles's or Billingsgate.

The money (gold coins, I mean) of Italy are of very pure metal, without

alloy; you may (as a proof of it) bend them into any shape with the

fingers.

An accident happened to us near Rondizzone, which was rather alarming,

but happily passed over without any serious consequences. The bridle of

the centre horse breaking, we were violently run away with by the

hot-headed animals; nor could the postillion stop them by any effort.

This was rendered more distressing by the circumstance of our going down

a steep hill at the moment. We called out repeatedly, and waved our

hands for assistance to one or two peasants who were passing, making

signs for them to catch the bridle, if possible; but they seemed to turn

a deaf ear to our entreaties, never offering to make the smallest

attempt to relieve us. By the time we reached the bottom of the hill,

however, which was fortunately a long one, the creatures felt tired, and

stopped of themselves.

At Cigliano we took a _dejeuné_ at _L'Albergo Reale_, and while it was

preparing, stood in the open gallery on the outside of the house,

gathering from a vine, which overshadowed it, the most delicious

Frontigniac grapes that I ever remember to have tasted: indeed their

flavour was exquisite, but the people did not appear to think them of

any particular value, leaving them freely to the attacks of every

traveller. Here we first drank the _vino d'Asti_, a light wine of the

country, which we thought extremely pleasant, tasting like the best

sweet cyder. I formerly thought that the flies of this country would

probably be much of the same sort as those in England; but they turned

out far more impertinently troublesome, inflicting their tiny torments

without mercy, being equally obnoxious to man and beast; a true

impudent, blood-sucking race! This reminds me, that under the head of

_vermin_, I ought to have recorded a disagreeable surprise felt by Mr.

B. at the Opera at Turin: feeling something tickle his forehead, he put

up his hand, and caught hold of a monstrous black spider, at least four

inches in circumference. The people at the hotel, to whom we related the

circumstance, said it was rather an uncommon thing, but which sometimes

occurred. The country, since we turned our backs upon Turin, was

monotonous, and only relieved by the chain of Alps in the distance.

At San Germano we observed a very graceful costume among the peasant

girls, and women of all ages; those who were advanced to extreme old age

still continuing it without any variation. I allude to the wearing

silver pins or bodkins in the hair behind, the long tresses of which are

tied together with a narrow black riband, and divided into two braids.

These are then coiled into a round shape at the back of the head, and

fastened to the roots of the hair by these ornamental pins, which are

about a finger in length, and have large heads, like beads. Their points

form the radii of a circle, and are plainly discovered amid the shadowy

locks which they thus support. The landscape here was flat and

uninteresting; but we remarked a great deal of pasture land. The trees

chiefly consisted of stunted willows, planted in straight lines. There

were no villas, or even hamlets, to be seen, and the _tout ensemble_ was

almost as tame and as ugly as that of the Netherlands. The first dulcet

notes of true Italian music, we heard at Vercelli: a baker's wife, who

lived next door to the _Albergo della Posta_ (where we stopped to change

horses), sat working and singing in her shop. It was the most elegant,

yet simple, air imaginable, and her voice possessed the soft mellifluous

tones of a faint but mellow flute. She had a peculiar ease and

flexibility also in the execution of several charming and brilliant

little graces, which delighted me. I thought it was extremely improbable

that this woman could have had the advantage of a master in the art; and

yet her style was finished in the most perfect sense of the word; being

simple, yet refined; pathetic, yet chastely ornamented. She was plain in

face and person; but her lips half open looked almost pretty, as she

emitted these sweet sounds, without discomposing a muscle. An effect was

thus produced, without effort or instruction, which is frequently denied

in our country to the pupils of the most celebrated teachers, although

every exertion has been cheerfully and indefatigably made, both by

master and scholar. But there is no convincing some people that there

are things which are not to be taught. Had I a daughter, I would never

allow her the assistance of a music master until I perceived, by

unequivocal tokens, that nature had qualified her to do credit to his

instructions; and hence waste of time, patience, temper, and money,

would be avoided. My baker's wife I shall never forget; and if her

example would have opened the eyes of half the world in England (who

really seem to be music-mad in the present age), I wish that she had had

an opportunity of exhibiting her gift, and of mortifying the silly

ambition, while she soothed the ears of them all. How have I smiled to

see people toiling to acquire the knowledge of composition and thorough

base, when I have been certain that they have not possessed a spark of

native genius to enable them to make any use of these rules after all.

Prometheus formed an image, but it was only fire from heaven that could

make that image man!

The costume of the women at Vercelli became still more picturesque than

those of San Germano, as the bodkins which the former wore were much

handsomer, some being of silver filligree, and others of silver gilt,

the heads worked and embossed with great taste and richness. We saw

large fields of rice here; this grain has a singular appearance,

something between the barley and oat: when viewed closely, it has about

twelve ears upon each stalk. The hedges by the road side were of a

species of acacia, forming a very graceful foliage, but not growing to

any height or size. I got out of the carriage to examine the manner in

which the women inserted the pretty ornaments I have just described

into their hair. I found them (like the French _paysannes_) extremely

courteous and frank in their manners, and they seemed flattered by the

attention their costume had excited. An old man stood by, holding the

hands of his two little grand-children; he observed (in the usual

_patois_) that they were beautiful rogues, and he was right, for I have

seldom seen sweeter children; very dark, with the bright yet soft black

eye peculiar to Italians, and which both Sir W. Jones and Lord Byron,

catching the poetical idea of the eastern writers, have so happily

defined, (or rather painted) by a comparison with that of the roe or

gazelle. One of these darlings had wavy curls of the darkest auburn

hair. What a pity that such lovely cherubim faces and silken locks

should not have been kept free from dirt and----worse than dirt! but it

is always the case here, the poorer classes are invariably filthy.