LOCH LEVEN.
"And where are we going next, uncle George?" said Rollo, as they were
all coming home to the hotel, from their last walk up to the castle.
"I am going to Kinross," said Mr. George.
"What is there at Kinross?" asked Rollo.
"There is a lake," said Mr. George, "and in the lake is an island, and
on the island are the ruins of an old castle, and in the castle Mary,
Queen of Scots, was imprisoned."
"Yes," said Waldron, "I have heard of Mary, Queen of Scots, but I do not
know much about her."
Waldron, it must be confessed, was not much of a scholar. He had read
very little, either of history or of any thing else.
"What was she remarkable for?" he asked.
"In the first place," said Mr. George, "she was very beautiful, and she
was also very lovely."
"That is the same thing; is it not?" said Rollo.
"No, not by any means," said Mr. George. "There are many beautiful
girls that are not lovely, and there are many lovely girls that are not
particularly beautiful."
"You mean lovely in character, I suppose," said Rollo.
"No," said Mr. George, "I mean lovely in looks. There is a great
difference, I think, between loveliness and beauty, in _looks_."
"I think so, too," said Waldron.
"Now, Mary, Queen of Scots," continued Mr. George, "was beautiful, and
she was also very lovely; and while she lived she charmed and fascinated
almost every body who knew her.
"Then, besides," continued Mr. George, "her life was an exceedingly
romantic one. She met with an extraordinary number of most remarkable
adventures. She was sent to France, when she was a little child, to be
educated. There were four little girls of her own age sent with her, to
be her playmates there, and they were all named Mary. She called them
her four Marys.
"She grew up to be a young lady in France, and married the king's son,
and she lived there for a time in great prosperity and splendor. At last
her husband died, and her enemies came into power in France, and she
became unhappy. Besides, there were some difficulties and troubles in
Scotland, and she was obliged to return to her native land. She was,
however, very unhappy about it. She loved France very much, and the
friends that she had made there, and when she came away she said that
she had left half her heart behind.
"When we go to Edinburgh," continued Mr. George, "we shall go to
Holyrood, and see the palace where she lived. While she was there a
great many extraordinary and curious events and incidents befell her."
"Tell us about them," said Waldron.
"No," said Mr. George. "It would take me too long. You must read her
history yourself. It is an exceedingly interesting story. She was
accused of some great crimes, but mankind have never been able to decide
whether she was guilty of them or not. Some are very sure that she was
innocent, and some are equally positive that she was guilty."
"What crimes were they?" asked Waldron.
"Why, one was," said Mr. George, "that of murdering her husband. It was
her second husband, one that she married after she came to Scotland.
They did not live happily together. He killed one of Mary's friends,
named Rizzio, and afterwards he was killed himself. The house that he
was in was blown up in the night with gunpowder."
"My!" exclaimed Waldron; "I should like to read about it."
"It is a very interesting and curious story," said Mr. George.
"And could not they find out who did it?" asked Waldron.
"Yes," said Mr. George, "they found out who did it; but what they could
not find out was, whether Mary herself took any part in the crime or
not. There was no direct proof. They could only judge from the
circumstances."
"What were the circumstances?" asked Waldron.
"O, I could not tell you very well," said Mr. George. "It would take me
half a day to tell the whole story. You must get some life of Mary,
Queen of Scots, and read it for yourself. You will have to begin at the
beginning, and read it all carefully through, and remember all the
persons that are mentioned, and consider their characters and motives,
and then you will be able to judge for yourself about it. There have
been a great many histories of her life written."
"And what about her being imprisoned in the castle that we are going to
see?" asked Waldron.
"O, you must read and find out for yourself about that, too," said Mr.
George. "The country got into great difficulty, and two parties were
formed, one of which was in favor of Mary, and one was against her. Her
enemies proved to be the strongest, and so they shut her up in this
castle. But she got away."
"How?" asked Waldron.
"You will learn all about it," replied Mr. George, "when you come to
read the history of her life. When we go to the castle you will see the
window where she climbed down into the boat."
"Did she escape in a boat?" asked Waldron.
"I am positively not going to tell you any more about it," said Mr.
George. "You must find out for yourself. Your father has paid ever so
much money to send you to school, to have you educated, so that you
could read history for yourself, and not be dependent upon any body; and
now for me to tell it to you would be ridiculous. You must go to a
bookstore, and buy a history of Mary, Queen of Scots, and begin at the
beginning, and read the whole story."
Mr. George said this in a somewhat jocose sort of manner, and Waldron
understood that his refusing to give him more full information about
Mary, Queen of Scots, arose, not from any unwillingness to oblige him,
but only to induce him to read the story himself, in full, which he
knew very well would be far better for him than to receive a meagre
statement of the principal points of the narrative from another person.
"I mean to get the book," said Waldron, "as soon as we arrive at
Edinburgh. But there is one thing I can do," he added; "I can ask the
guide. The guide that shows us the castle will tell me how she got
away."
"Well," said Mr. George, "you can ask the guide; but I don't believe you
will get much satisfaction in _that_ way."
The next morning after this conversation took place, Mr. George and the
boys bade Stirling farewell, and set off in the cars, on the way to Loch
Leven. After riding about an hour they left the train at the station
called Dunfermline, where there was a ruin of an abbey, and of an
ancient royal palace of Scotland. They left their baggage at the
station, and walked through the village till they came to the ruin. It
was a very beautiful ruin, and the party spent more than an hour in
rambling about it, and looking at the old monuments, and the carved and
sculptured windows, and arches, and cornices, all wasted and blackened
by time and decay. A part of the ruin was still in good repair, and was
used as a church, though it was full of old sepulchral monuments and
relics. There was a woman in attendance at the door, to show the church
to those who wished to see the interior of it.
After looking at these ruins as long as they wished, Mr. George and the
boys went back to the station, in order to take the next train that came
by, and continue their journey. They went on about an hour longer, and
then they got out again at a station called Cowdenbeath, which was the
place on the road that was nearest to Loch Leven, and where they had
understood that there was a coach, which went to Loch Leven twice a day.
The place was very quiet and still, and was in the midst of a green and
pretty country, with small groups of stone cottages here and there.
There were also several pretty tall chimneys scattered about the fields,
with a sort of platform, and some wheels and machinery near each of
them. These were the mouths of coal pits. The wheels and machinery were
for hoisting up the coal.
In the yard of the station they found the Loch Leven coach. It was in
the form of a very short omnibus. The coachman said that he had just
come in from Loch Leven, and that he was going to set out on his return
at eight. It was now about seven, so that Mr. George and the boys had an
hour to walk about, and see what was to be seen.
It was a pleasant summer evening, and they enjoyed the rambles that they
took very much indeed. They walked through several of the little
hamlets, and saw the women sitting at the doors of their cottages, with
their young children in their arms, while the older ones were running
about, here and there, at play. They went to some of the coal pits, and
saw the immense iron levers, driven by steam, that were slowly moving to
and fro, hard at work pumping up water from the bottom of the mine. They
took quite a walk, too, along the turnpike road, and saw a post-chaise
drive swiftly by, with a footman behind, and a postilion in livery on
one of the horses.
At last, when the hour of eight began to draw nigh, they all went back
to a little inn near the station, where the coachman had said that he
would call for them. When the coach came Mr. George got in, and the two
boys mounted on the top, and took their places on a high seat behind
that of the driver. They had a very pleasant ride. The country was
beautiful, and the horses trotted so fast over the smooth, hard road,
that a continued succession of most enchanting pictures of rural scenery
was presented to the eyes of the boys, as they rode along. The distance
was not far from ten miles, but both the boys wished that it had been
twenty.
At length they came in sight of a large village bordered by groves of
trees, lying in the midst of a gentle depression of the ground, and in a
few minutes more they began to get glimpses of the water. The village
was Kinross, and the water was Loch Leven. Presently, in going over a
gentle elevation of land, a large portion of the surface of the water
came into view. Far out towards the centre of it was a small, low
island, covered with trees. In the midst of the trees the boys could see
the top of the ruin of a large, square tower. They asked the coachman if
that was Loch Leven Castle, and he said it was.
"Uncle George," said Rollo, leaning over and calling out to his uncle
inside, "there's the castle."
"Yes," said Mr. George, "I see it."
"It seems to me," said Rollo to Waldron, "that that is a very small
island to build a castle upon."
"Yes," said the coachman; "but it was a great deal smaller in the days
when the castle was inhabited. It was only just large enough then for
the castle itself, and for the castle garden. It is a great deal larger
now. The way it came to be larger was this. Some years ago the
proprietor cut down the outlet of the loch four feet deeper than it was
before; and that drew off four feet of water from the whole loch, and
of course all the places where the water was less than four feet deep
were laid bare. This enlarged the castle island a great deal, for before
the water was very shallow all around it. When the land became dry they
planted trees there, and now the ruins are in the midst of quite a
grove."
By this time the coach began to enter the village, and very soon it
stopped at the door of a very neat and tidy-looking inn. Mr. George
engaged lodgings for the night, and called for supper. The supper was
served in a pleasant little coffee room, which was fitted up in a very
snug and comfortable manner, like a back parlor in a gentleman's house.
After supper Mr. George proposed to the boys that they should take a
walk about the village, as it was only nine o'clock, and it would not be
dark for another hour. So they went out and walked through the street,
back and forth. The houses were built of a sort of gray stone, and they
stood all close together in rows, one on each side of the street, with
nothing green around them or near them. The street thus presented a very
gray, sombre, and monotonous appearance; very different from the
animated and cheerful aspect of American villages, with their white
houses and green blinds, and pretty yards and gardens, enclosed with
ornamental palings. The boys wished to go down to the shore of the loch;
but as they did not see the water any where, Mr. George said he thought
it would be too far. So they went back to the inn.
The next morning, after breakfast, they set out to go and visit the
castle. A boy went with them from the inn to show them the way. He led
them down the street of the village, to a house where he said the man
lived who "had the fishing" of the loch. It seems that the loch,
including the right to fish in it, is private property, and that the
owner of it lets the fishing to a man in the village, and that he keeps
a boat to take visitors out to see the castle. So they went to the house
where this man lived. They explained what they wanted at the door, and
pretty soon a boatman came out, and went with them to the shore of the
pond. The way was through a wide green field, that had been formed out
of the bottom of the loch, by drawing off the water. When they came to
the shore they found a small pier there, with a boat fastened to it.
There was a small boat house near the pier. The boatman brought some
oars out of the boat house, and put them in the boat, and then they all
got in.
The morning was calm, and the loch was very smooth, and the boat glided
along very gently over the water. There was a great curve in the shore
near the pier, so that for some time the boat, though headed directly
for the island, which was in the middle of the loch, moved parallel to
the shore, and very near it. There was a smooth and beautiful green
field all the way along the shore, which sloped down gently to the
margin of the water. Beyond this field, which was not wide, there was a
road, and beyond the road there was a wall. Over the wall were to be
seen the trees of a great park; and presently the boat came opposite to
the gateway, through which the boys could see, as they sailed by, a
large and handsome stone house, or castle. The boatman said it was not
inhabited, because the owner of it was not yet of age.
After passing the house they came, before long, to the end of these
grounds, which formed a point projecting into the lake. There was a
small and very ancient-looking burying ground on the point. This burying
ground will be referred to hereafter; so do not forget it.
After passing this point of land, the boat, in her course towards the
castle, came out into the open loch--the little island on which the
ruins of the castle stand being in full view.
There was, however, yet a pretty broad sheet of open water to pass
before reaching the island.
[Illustration: LOCH LEVEN.]
"Now we have passed Cape Race," said Waldron, "and are striking out into
the open sea."
Cape Race is the southern cape of Newfoundland, and is the last land to
be seen on the American coast, in crossing the Atlantic.
After about a quarter of an hour, the boat began to approach the shores
of the little island. And now the great square tower, and the rampart
wall connected with it, came plainly in sight. There were a few very
large and old trees overhanging the ruins, and all the rest of the
island was covered with a dense grove of young trees. The boat came up
to the land, and Mr. George and the boys stepped out of it upon a sort
of jetty, formed of stones loosely thrown together. There was a path
leading through the grass, and among the trees, towards the ruins of the
castle.
The castle consisted, when it was entire, of a square area enclosed in a
high wall, with various buildings along the inner side of it. The
principal of these buildings was the square tower. This was in one
corner of the enclosure. At the opposite corner of the enclosure were
the ruins of a smaller tower, hexagonal in its form. The square tower
contained the principal apartments occupied by the family that resided
in the castle. The hexagonal one contained the rooms where Queen Mary
was imprisoned.
Then, besides these structures, there were several other buildings
within the area, though they are now gone almost entirely to ruin. There
was a chapel, for religious services and worship; there were ovens for
baking, and a brewery for brewing beer. The guide showed Mr. George and
the boys the places where these buildings stood; though nothing was left
of them now but the rude ranges of stone which marked the foundations of
them. Indeed, throughout the whole interior of the area enclosed by the
castle wall there was nothing to be seen but stones and heaps of
rubbish, all overgrown with rank grass, and tall wild-flowers, and
overshadowed by the wide-spreading limbs and dense foliage of several
enormous trees, that had by chance sprung up since the castle went to
ruin. It was a very mournful spectacle.
The boys walked directly across the area, towards the hexagonal tower,
in order to see the place where Queen Mary escaped by climbing out of
the window.
Mr. George had thought that Waldron would not succeed in obtaining any
satisfactory information from the guide in respect to the circumstances
of Queen Mary's escape; for, generally, the guides who show these old
places in England and Scotland know little more than a certain lesson,
which they have learned by rote. But the guides who show the Castle of
Loch Leven seem to me exceptions to this rule. I have visited the place
two or three times, at intervals of many years, and the guides who have
conducted me to the spot have always been very intelligent and
well-informed young men, and have seemed to possess a very clear and
comprehensive understanding of the events of Queen Mary's life. At any
rate, the guide in this instance gave Waldron and Rollo a very good
account of the escape; separating in his narrative, in a very
discriminating manner, those things which are known, on good historical
evidence, to be true, from those which rest only on the authority of
traditionary legends. He gave his account, too, in a very gentle tone of
voice, and with a Scotch accent, which seemed so appropriate to the
place and to the occasion that it imparted to his conversation a
peculiar charm.
"The country was divided in those days," said he, "and some of the
nobles were for the poor queen, and some were against her. The owner of
this castle was Lady Douglass, and she was against her; and so they sent
Mary here, for Lady Douglass to keep her safely, while they arranged a
new government.
"But she made her escape by this window, which I will show ye."
So saying, the guide led the way up two or three old, time-worn, and
dilapidated steps, into the hexagonal tower. The tower was small--being,
apparently, not more than twelve feet diameter within. The floors,
except the lower one, and also the roof, were entirely gone, so that as
soon as you entered you could look up to the sky.
The walls were very thick, so that there was room, not only for deep
fireplaces, but also for closets and for a staircase, in them. You
could see the openings for these closets, and also various loopholes and
windows, at different heights. The top of the wall was all broken away,
and so were the sills of the windows; and little tufts of grass and of
wall flowers were to be seen, here and there, growing out of clefts and
crevices. There were also rows of small square holes to be seen, at
different heights, where the ends of the timbers had been inserted, to
form the floors of the several stories.
"This was the window where she is supposed to have got out," said the
guide.
So saying, he pointed to a large opening in the wall, on the outer side,
where there had once, evidently, been a window.
The boys went to the place, and looked out. They saw beneath the window
a smooth, green lawn, with the young trees which had been planted
growing luxuriantly upon it.
"I suppose," said Mr. George, "that before the lake was lowered the
water came up close under the window."
"Yes, sir," said the guide; "and if you stand upon the sill, and look
down, you will see a course of projecting stone at the foot of the wall
which was laid to meet the wash of the water."
"Let me see," said Waldron, eagerly.
So saying, Waldron advanced by the side of Mr. George, and looked down.
By leaning over pretty far he could see the course of stone very
distinctly that the guide had referred to.
"Who brought the boat here for Mary to go away in?" asked Waldron.
"Young Douglass," said the guide, "Lady Douglass's son. He was a young
lad, only eighteen years old. His mother was Queen Mary's enemy; but
_he_ pitied her, and became her friend, and he devised this way to
assist her to escape. There was a plan devised before this, by his
brother. His name was George Douglass. The one who came in the boat was
William. George's plan was for Mary to go on shore in the disguise of a
laundress. The laundress came over to the island from the shore in a
boat, to bring the linen; and while she was in Mary's room Mary
exchanged clothes with her, and attempted to go on shore in the boat
with the empty basket. But the boatmen happened to notice her hand,
which was very delicate and white, and they knew that such a hand as
that could never belong to a real laundress. So they made her lift up
her veil, and thus she was discovered."
"That was very curious," said Waldron.
"It is supposed," said the guide, "that this floor, where we stand, was
Mary's drawing room, and the floor above was her bed chamber. The
staircase where she went up is _there_, in the wall."
"Let's go up," said Rollo.
So Rollo and Waldron went up the stairway. It was very narrow, and
rather steep, and the steps were much worn away. When the boys reached
the top they came to an opening, through which they could look down to
where Mr. George and the guide were standing below; though, of course,
they could not go out; for the floor in the second story was entirely
gone.
"There was a room above the bed chamber," said the guide, "as we see by
the windows and the fireplace, but there was no stairway to it from
Queen Mary's apartments. The only access to it was through that door,
which leads in from the top of the rampart wall. And there is another
room below, and partly under ground. That is the room where Walter Scott
represents the false keys to have been forged."
"What false keys?" asked Waldron.
"Why, the story is," said the guide, "that young Douglass had false keys
made, to resemble the true ones as nearly as possible, so as to deceive
his mother. He then contrived to get the true ones away from his mother,
and put the false ones in their place. I will show you where he did
this, and explain how he did it, when we go into the square tower."
"Let us go now," said Waldron.
So they all went across the court yard, and approached the square tower.
The guide explained to the boys that formerly the entrance was in the
second story, through an opening in the wall, which he showed them. The
way to get up to this opening was by a step ladder, which could be let
down or drawn up by the people within, by means of chains coming down
from a window above. The step ladder was, of course, entirely gone; but
deep grooves were to be seen in the sill of the upper window, which had
been worn by the chains in letting down and drawing up the ladder.
To accommodate modern visitors a flight of loose stone steps had been
laid outside the square tower, leading to a window in the lower story of
it. Mr. George and the boys ascended these steps and went in. The lower
room was the kitchen, and they were all much interested and amused in
looking at the very strange and curious fixtures and contrivances which
remained there--the memorials of the domestic usages of those ancient
times.
In a corner of the room was a flight of steps, built in the thickness of
the wall, leading to the story above. This was the dining room and
parlor of the castle.
"It was here," said the guide, "according to the story of Walter Scott,
that Douglass contrived to get possession of the castle keys. There was
a window on one side of the room, from which there was a view, across
the water of the lake, of the burying ground already mentioned. Lady
Douglass, like almost every body else in those times, was somewhat
superstitious, and William arranged it with a page that he was to
pretend to see what was called a corpse light, moving about in the
burying ground; and while his mother went to see, he shifted the keys
which she had left upon the table, taking the true ones himself, and
leaving the false ones in their place.
"That is the story which Sir Walter Scott relates," said the guide; "but
I am not sure that there is any historical authority for it."
"And what became of Queen Mary, after she escaped in the boat?" asked
Waldron.
"O, there were several of her friends," said the guide, "waiting for her
on the shore of the loch where she was to land, and they hurried her
away on horseback to a castle in the south of Scotland, and there they
gathered an army for her, to defend her rights."
After this the boys looked down through a trap door, which led to a
dark dungeon, where it is supposed that prisoners were sometimes
confined. They rambled about the ruins for some time longer, and then
they returned to the boat, and came back to the shore. When they arrived
at the pier they paid the boatman his customary fee, which was about a
dollar and a quarter, and then began to walk up towards the inn.
"Well, boys," said Mr. George, "how did you like it?"
"Very much indeed," said Waldron. "It is the best old castle I ever
saw."
"You will like the Palace of Holyrood better, I think," said Mr. George.
"Where is that?" asked Rollo.
"At Edinburgh," said Mr. George. "It is the place where Mary lived. We
shall see the little room there where they murdered her poor secretary,
David Rizzio."
"What did they murder him for?" asked Waldron.
"O, you will see when you come to read the history," said Mr. George.
"It is a very curious story."