I left Tonsberg yesterday, the 22nd of August. It is only twelve or
thirteen English miles to Moss, through a country less wild than any
tract I had hitherto passed over in Norway. It was often beautiful, but
seldom afforded those grand views which fill rather than soothe the
mind.
We glided along the meadows and through the woods, with sunbeams playing
around us; and, though no castles adorned the prospects, a greater
number of comfortable farms met my eyes during this ride than I have
ever seen, in the same space, even in the most cultivated part of
England; and the very appearance of the cottages of the labourers
sprinkled amidst them excluded all those gloomy ideas inspired by the
contemplation of poverty.
The hay was still bringing in, for one harvest in Norway treads on the
heels of the other. The woods were more variegated, interspersed with
shrubs. We no longer passed through forests of vast pines stretching
along with savage magnificence. Forests that only exhibited the slow
decay of time or the devastation produced by warring elements. No; oaks,
ashes, beech, and all the light and graceful tenants of our woods here
sported luxuriantly. I had not observed many oaks before, for the
greater part of the oak-planks, I am informed, come from the westward.
In France the farmers generally live in villages, which is a great
disadvantage to the country; but the Norwegian farmers, always owning
their farms or being tenants for life, reside in the midst of them,
allowing some labourers a dwelling rent free, who have a little land
appertaining to the cottage, not only for a garden, but for crops of
different kinds, such as rye, oats, buck-wheat, hemp, flax, beans,
potatoes, and hay, which are sown in strips about it, reminding a
stranger of the first attempts at culture, when every family was obliged
to be an independent community.
These cottagers work at a certain price (tenpence per day) for the
farmers on whose ground they live, and they have spare time enough to
cultivate their own land and lay in a store of fish for the winter. The
wives and daughters spin and the husbands and sons weave, so that they
may fairly be reckoned independent, having also a little money in hand
to buy coffee, brandy and some other superfluities.
The only thing I disliked was the military service, which trammels them
more than I at first imagined. It is true that the militia is only
called out once a year, yet in case of war they have no alternative but
must abandon their families. Even the manufacturers are not exempted,
though the miners are, in order to encourage undertakings which require
a capital at the commencement. And, what appears more tyrannical, the
inhabitants of certain districts are appointed for the land, others for
the sea service. Consequently, a peasant, born a soldier, is not
permitted to follow his inclination should it lead him to go to sea, a
natural desire near so many seaports.
In these regulations the arbitrary government--the King of Denmark being
the most absolute monarch in Europe--appears, which in other respects
seeks to hide itself in a lenity that almost renders the laws nullities.
If any alteration of old customs is thought of, the opinion of the old
country is required and maturely considered. I have several times had
occasion to observe that, fearing to appear tyrannical, laws are allowed
to become obsolete which ought to be put in force or better substituted
in their stead; for this mistaken moderation, which borders on timidity,
favours the least respectable part of the people.
I saw on my way not only good parsonage houses, but comfortable
dwellings, with glebe land for the clerk, always a consequential man in
every country, a being proud of a little smattering of learning, to use
the appropriate epithet, and vain of the stiff good-breeding reflected
from the vicar, though the servility practised in his company gives it a
peculiar cast.
The widow of the clergyman is allowed to receive the benefit of the
living for a twelvemonth after the death of the incumbent.
Arriving at the ferry (the passage over to Moss is about six or eight
English miles) I saw the most level shore I had yet seen in Norway. The
appearance of the circumjacent country had been preparing me for the
change of scene which was to greet me when I reached the coast. For the
grand features of nature had been dwindling into prettiness as I
advanced; yet the rocks, on a smaller scale, were finely wooded to the
water's edge. Little art appeared, yet sublimity everywhere gave place
to elegance. The road had often assumed the appearance of a gravelled
one, made in pleasure-grounds; whilst the trees excited only an idea of
embellishment. Meadows, like lawns, in an endless variety, displayed the
careless graces of nature; and the ripening corn gave a richness to the
landscape analogous with the other objects.
Never was a southern sky more beautiful, nor more soft its gales.
Indeed, I am led to conclude that the sweetest summer in the world is
the northern one, the vegetation being quick and luxuriant the moment
the earth is loosened from its icy fetters and the bound streams regain
their wonted activity. The balance of happiness with respect to climate
may be more equal than I at first imagined; for the inhabitants describe
with warmth the pleasures of a winter at the thoughts of which I
shudder. Not only their parties of pleasure but of business are reserved
for this season, when they travel with astonishing rapidity the most
direct way, skimming over hedge and ditch.
On entering Moss I was struck by the animation which seemed to result
from industry. The richest of the inhabitants keep shops, resembling in
their manners and even the arrangement of their houses the tradespeople
of Yorkshire; with an air of more independence, or rather consequence,
from feeling themselves the first people in the place. I had not time to
see the iron-works, belonging to Mr. Anker, of Christiania, a man of
fortune and enterprise; and I was not very anxious to see them after
having viewed those at Laurvig.
Here I met with an intelligent literary man, who was anxious to gather
information from me relative to the past and present situation of
France. The newspapers printed at Copenhagen, as well as those in
England, give the most exaggerated accounts of their atrocities and
distresses, but the former without any apparent comments or inferences.
Still the Norwegians, though more connected with the English, speaking
their language and copying their manners, wish well to the Republican
cause, and follow with the most lively interest the successes of the
French arms. So determined were they, in fact, to excuse everything,
disgracing the struggle of freedom, by admitting the tyrant's plea,
necessity, that I could hardly persuade them that Robespierre was a
monster.
The discussion of this subject is not so general as in England, being
confined to the few, the clergy and physicians, with a small portion of
people who have a literary turn and leisure; the greater part of the
inhabitants having a variety of occupations, being owners of ships,
shopkeepers, and farmers, have employment enough at home. And their
ambition to become rich may tend to cultivate the common sense which
characterises and narrows both their hearts and views, confirming the
former to their families, taking the handmaids of it into the circle of
pleasure, if not of interest, and the latter to the inspection of their
workmen, including the noble science of bargain-making--that is, getting
everything at the cheapest, and selling it at the dearest rate. I am now
more than ever convinced that it is an intercourse with men of science
and artists which not only diffuses taste, but gives that freedom to the
understanding without which I have seldom met with much benevolence of
character on a large scale.
Besides, though you do not hear of much pilfering and stealing in
Norway, yet they will, with a quiet conscience, buy things at a price
which must convince them they were stolen. I had an opportunity of
knowing that two or three reputable people had purchased some articles
of vagrants, who were detected. How much of the virtue which appears in
the world is put on for the world? And how little dictated by
self-respect?--so little, that I am ready to repeat the old question,
and ask, Where is truth, or rather principle, to be found? These are,
perhaps, the vapourings of a heart ill at ease--the effusions of a
sensibility wounded almost to madness. But enough of this; we will
discuss the subject in another state of existence, where truth and
justice will reign. How cruel are the injuries which make us quarrel
with human nature! At present black melancholy hovers round my
footsteps; and sorrow sheds a mildew over all the future prospects,
which hope no longer gilds.
A rainy morning prevented my enjoying the pleasure the view of a
picturesque country would have afforded me; for though this road passed
through a country a greater extent of which was under cultivation than I
had usually seen here, it nevertheless retained all the wild charms of
Norway. Rocks still enclosed the valleys, the great sides of which
enlivened their verdure. Lakes appeared like branches of the sea, and
branches of the sea assumed the appearance of tranquil lakes; whilst
streamlets prattled amongst the pebbles and the broken mass of stone
which had rolled into them, giving fantastic turns to the trees, the
roots of which they bared.
It is not, in fact, surprising that the pine should be often undermined;
it shoots its fibres in such a horizontal direction, merely on the
surface of the earth, requiring only enough to cover those that cling to
the crags. Nothing proves to me so clearly that it is the air which
principally nourishes trees and plants as the flourishing appearance of
these pines. The firs, demanding a deeper soil, are seldom seen in equal
health, or so numerous on the barren cliffs. They take shelter in the
crevices, or where, after some revolving ages, the pines have prepared
them a footing.
Approaching, or rather descending, to Christiania, though the weather
continued a little cloudy, my eyes were charmed with the view of an
extensive undulated valley, stretching out under the shelter of a noble
amphitheatre of pine-covered mountains. Farm houses scattered about
animated, nay, graced a scene which still retained so much of its native
wildness, that the art which appeared seemed so necessary, it was
scarcely perceived. Cattle were grazing in the shaven meadows; and the
lively green on their swelling sides contrasted with the ripening corn
and rye. The corn that grew on the slopes had not, indeed, the laughing
luxuriance of plenty, which I have seen in more genial climes. A fresh
breeze swept across the grain, parting its slender stalks, but the wheat
did not wave its head with its wonted careless dignity, as if nature had
crowned it the king of plants.
The view, immediately on the left, as we drove down the mountain, was
almost spoilt by the depredations committed on the rocks to make alum. I
do not know the process. I only saw that the rocks looked red after they
had been burnt, and regretted that the operation should leave a quantity
of rubbish to introduce an image of human industry in the shape of
destruction. The situation of Christiania is certainly uncommonly fine,
and I never saw a bay that so forcibly gave me an idea of a place of
safety from the storms of the ocean; all the surrounding objects were
beautiful and even grand. But neither the rocky mountains, nor the woods
that graced them, could be compared with the sublime prospects I had
seen to the westward; and as for the hills, "capped with _eternal_
snow," Mr. Coxe's description led me to look for them, but they had
flown, for I looked vainly around for this noble background.
A few months ago the people of Christiania rose, exasperated by the
scarcity and consequent high price of grain. The immediate cause was the
shipping of some, said to be for Moss, but which they suspected was only
a pretext to send it out of the country, and I am not sure that they
were wrong in their conjecture. Such are the tricks of trade. They threw
stones at Mr. Anker, the owner of it, as he rode out of town to escape
from their fury; they assembled about his house, and the people demanded
afterwards, with so much impetuosity, the liberty of those who were
taken up in consequence of the tumult, that the Grand Bailiff thought it
prudent to release them without further altercation.
You may think me too severe on commerce, but from the manner it is at
present carried on little can be advanced in favour of a pursuit that
wears out the most sacred principles of humanity and rectitude. What is
speculation but a species of gambling, I might have said fraud, in which
address generally gains the prize? I was led into these reflections
when I heard of some tricks practised by merchants, miscalled reputable,
and certainly men of property, during the present war, in which common
honesty was violated: damaged goods and provision having been shipped
for the express purpose of falling into the hands of the English, who
had pledged themselves to reimburse neutral nations for the cargoes they
seized; cannon also, sent back as unfit for service, have been shipped
as a good speculation, the captain receiving orders to cruise about till
he fell in with an English frigate. Many individuals I believe have
suffered by the seizures of their vessels; still I am persuaded that the
English Government has been very much imposed upon in the charges made
by merchants who contrived to get their ships taken. This censure is not
confined to the Danes. Adieu, for the present, I must take advantage of
a moment of fine weather to walk out and see the town.
At Christiania I met with that polite reception, which rather
characterises the progress of manners in the world, than of any
particular portion of it. The first evening of my arrival I supped with
some of the most fashionable people of the place, and almost imagined
myself in a circle of English ladies, so much did they resemble them in
manners, dress, and even in beauty; for the fairest of my countrywomen
would not have been sorry to rank with the Grand Bailiff's lady. There
were several pretty girls present, but she outshone them all, and, what
interested me still more, I could not avoid observing that in acquiring
the easy politeness which distinguishes people of quality, she had
preserved her Norwegian simplicity. There was, in fact, a graceful
timidity in her address, inexpressibly charming. This surprised me a
little, because her husband was quite a Frenchman of the _ancien
régime_, or rather a courtier, the same kind of animal in every country.
Here I saw the cloven foot of despotism. I boasted to you that they had
no viceroy in Norway, but these Grand Bailiffs, particularly the
superior one, who resides at Christiania, are political monsters of the
same species. Needy sycophants are provided for by their relations and
connections at Copenhagen as at other courts. And though the Norwegians
are not in the abject state of the Irish, yet this second-hand
government is still felt by their being deprived of several natural
advantages to benefit the domineering state.
The Grand Bailiffs are mostly noblemen from Copenhagen, who act as men
of common minds will always act in such situations--aping a degree of
courtly parade which clashes with the independent character of a
magistrate. Besides, they have a degree of power over the country
judges, which some of them, who exercise a jurisdiction truly
patriarchal most painfully feel. I can scarcely say why, my friend, but
in this city thoughtfulness seemed to be sliding into melancholy or
rather dulness. The fire of fancy, which had been kept alive in the
country, was almost extinguished by reflections on the ills that harass
such a large portion of mankind. I felt like a bird fluttering on the
ground unable to mount, yet unwilling to crawl tranquilly like a
reptile, whilst still conscious it had wings.
I walked out, for the open air is always my remedy when an aching head
proceeds from an oppressed heart. Chance directed my steps towards the
fortress, and the sight of the slaves, working with chains on their
legs, only served to embitter me still more against the regulations of
society, which treated knaves in such a different manner, especially as
there was a degree of energy in some of their countenances which
unavoidably excited my attention, and almost created respect.
I wished to have seen, through an iron grate, the face of a man who has
been confined six years for having induced the farmers to revolt against
some impositions of the Government. I could not obtain a clear account
of the affair, yet, as the complaint was against some farmers of taxes,
I am inclined to believe that it was not totally without foundation. He
must have possessed some eloquence, or have had truth on his side; for
the farmers rose by hundreds to support him, and were very much
exasperated at his imprisonment, which will probably last for life,
though he has sent several very spirited remonstrances to the upper
court, which makes the judges so averse to giving a sentence which may
be cavilled at, that they take advantage of the glorious uncertainty of
the law, to protract a decision which is only to be regulated by reasons
of state.
The greater number of the slaves I saw here were not confined for life.
Their labour is not hard; and they work in the open air, which prevents
their constitutions from suffering by imprisonment. Still, as they are
allowed to associate together, and boast of their dexterity, not only to
each other but to the soldiers around them, in the garrison; they
commonly, it is natural to conclude, go out more confirmed and more
expert knaves than when they entered.
It is not necessary to trace the origin of the association of ideas
which led me to think that the stars and gold keys, which surrounded me
the evening before, disgraced the wearers as much as the fetters I was
viewing--perhaps more. I even began to investigate the reason, which led
me to suspect that the former produced the latter.
The Norwegians are extravagantly fond of courtly distinction, and of
titles, though they have no immunities annexed to them, and are easily
purchased. The proprietors of mines have many privileges: they are
almost exempt from taxes, and the peasantry born on their estates, as
well as those on the counts', are not born soldiers or sailors.
One distinction, or rather trophy of nobility, which might have
occurred to the Hottentots, amused me; it was a bunch of hog's bristles
placed on the horses' heads, surmounting that part of the harness to
which a round piece of brass often dangles, fatiguing the eye with its
idle motion.
From the fortress I returned to my lodging, and quickly was taken out of
town to be shown a pretty villa, and English garden. To a Norwegian both
might have been objects of curiosity; and of use, by exciting to the
comparison which leads to improvement. But whilst I gazed, I was
employed in restoring the place to nature, or taste, by giving it the
character of the surrounding scene. Serpentine walks, and
flowering-shrubs, looked trifling in a grand recess of the rocks, shaded
by towering pines. Groves of smaller trees might have been sheltered
under them, which would have melted into the landscape, displaying only
the art which ought to point out the vicinity of a human abode,
furnished with some elegance. But few people have sufficient taste to
discern, that the art of embellishing consists in interesting, not in
astonishing.
Christiania is certainly very pleasantly situated, and the environs I
passed through, during this ride, afforded many fine and cultivated
prospects; but, excepting the first view approaching to it, rarely
present any combination of objects so strikingly new, or picturesque, as
to command remembrance. Adieu!