I have once more, my friend, taken flight, for I left Tonsberg
yesterday, but with an intention of returning in my way back to Sweden.
The road to Laurvig is very fine, and the country the best cultivated in
Norway. I never before admired the beech tree, and when I met stragglers
here they pleased me still less. Long and lank, they would have forced
me to allow that the line of beauty requires some curves, if the stately
pine, standing near, erect, throwing her vast arms around, had not
looked beautiful in opposition to such narrow rules.
In these respects my very reason obliges me to permit my feelings to be
my criterion. Whatever excites emotion has charms for me, though I
insist that the cultivation of the mind by warming, nay, almost creating
the imagination, produces taste and an immense variety of sensations and
emotions, partaking of the exquisite pleasure inspired by beauty and
sublimity. As I know of no end to them, the word infinite, so often
misapplied, might on this occasion be introduced with something like
propriety.
But I have rambled away again. I intended to have remarked to you the
effect produced by a grove of towering beech, the airy lightness of
their foliage admitting a degree of sunshine, which, giving a
transparency to the leaves, exhibited an appearance of freshness and
elegance that I had never before remarked. I thought of descriptions of
Italian scenery. But these evanescent graces seemed the effect of
enchantment; and I imperceptibly breathed softly, lest I should destroy
what was real, yet looked so like the creation of fancy. Dryden's fable
of the flower and the leaf was not a more poetical reverie.
Adieu, however, to fancy, and to all the sentiments which ennoble our
nature. I arrived at Laurvig, and found myself in the midst of a group
of lawyers of different descriptions. My head turned round, my heart
grew sick, as I regarded visages deformed by vice, and listened to
accounts of chicanery that was continually embroiling the ignorant.
These locusts will probably diminish as the people become more
enlightened. In this period of social life the commonalty are always
cunningly attentive to their own interest; but their faculties, confined
to a few objects, are so narrowed, that they cannot discover it in the
general good. The profession of the law renders a set of men still
shrewder and more selfish than the rest; and it is these men, whose wits
have been sharpened by knavery, who here undermine morality, confounding
right and wrong.
The Count of Bernstorff, who really appears to me, from all I can
gather, to have the good of the people at heart, aware of this, has
lately sent to the mayor of each district to name, according to the size
of the place, four or six of the best-informed inhabitants, not men of
the law, out of which the citizens were to elect two, who are to be
termed mediators. Their office is to endeavour to prevent litigious
suits, and conciliate differences. And no suit is to be commenced before
the parties have discussed the dispute at their weekly meeting. If a
reconciliation should, in consequence, take place, it is to be
registered, and the parties are not allowed to retract.
By these means ignorant people will be prevented from applying for
advice to men who may justly be termed stirrers-up of strife. They have
for a long time, to use a significant vulgarism, set the people by the
ears, and live by the spoil they caught up in the scramble. There is
some reason to hope that this regulation will diminish their number, and
restrain their mischievous activity. But till trials by jury are
established, little justice can be expected in Norway. Judges who cannot
be bribed are often timid, and afraid of offending bold knaves, lest
they should raise a set of hornets about themselves. The fear of censure
undermines all energy of character; and, labouring to be prudent, they
lose sight of rectitude. Besides, nothing is left to their conscience,
or sagacity; they must be governed by evidence, though internally
convinced that it is false.
There is a considerable iron manufactory at Laurvig for coarse work, and
a lake near the town supplies the water necessary for working several
mills belonging to it.
This establishment belongs to the Count of Laurvig. Without a fortune
and influence equal to his, such a work could not have been set afloat;
personal fortunes are not yet sufficient to support such undertakings.
Nevertheless the inhabitants of the town speak of the size of his estate
as an evil, because it obstructs commerce. The occupiers of small farms
are obliged to bring their wood to the neighbouring seaports to be
shipped; but he, wishing to increase the value of his, will not allow it
to be thus gradually cut down, which turns the trade into another
channel. Added to this, nature is against them, the bay being open and
insecure. I could not help smiling when I was informed that in a hard
gale a vessel had been wrecked in the main street. When there are such a
number of excellent harbours on the coast, it is a pity that accident
has made one of the largest towns grow up on a bad one.
The father of the present count was a distant relation of the family; he
resided constantly in Denmark, and his son follows his example. They
have not been in possession of the estate many years; and their
predecessor lived near the town, introducing a degree of profligacy of
manners which has been ruinous to the inhabitants in every respect,
their fortunes not being equal to the prevailing extravagance.
What little I have seen of the manners of the people does not please me
so well as those of Tonsberg. I am forewarned that I shall find them
still more cunning and fraudulent as I advance towards the westward, in
proportion as traffic takes place of agriculture, for their towns are
built on naked rocks, the streets are narrow bridges, and the
inhabitants are all seafaring men, or owners of ships, who keep shops.
The inn I was at in Laurvig this journey was not the same that I was at
before. It is a good one--the people civil, and the accommodations
decent. They seem to be better provided in Sweden; but in justice I
ought to add that they charge more extravagantly. My bill at Tonsberg
was also much higher than I had paid in Sweden, and much higher than it
ought to have been where provision is so cheap. Indeed, they seem to
consider foreigners as strangers whom they shall never see again, and
may fairly pluck. And the inhabitants of the western coast, isolated, as
it were, regard those of the east almost as strangers. Each town in that
quarter seems to be a great family, suspicious of every other, allowing
none to cheat them but themselves; and, right or wrong, they support one
another in the face of justice.
On this journey I was fortunate enough to have one companion with more
enlarged views than the generality of his countrymen, who spoke English
tolerably.
I was informed that we might still advance a mile and a quarter in our
cabrioles; afterwards there was no choice, but of a single horse and
wretched path, or a boat, the usual mode of travelling.
We therefore sent our baggage forward in the boat, and followed rather
slowly, for the road was rocky and sandy. We passed, however, through
several beech groves, which still delighted me by the freshness of their
light green foliage, and the elegance of their assemblage, forming
retreats to veil without obscuring the sun.
I was surprised, at approaching the water, to find a little cluster of
houses pleasantly situated, and an excellent inn. I could have wished
to have remained there all night; but as the wind was fair, and the
evening fine, I was afraid to trust to the wind--the uncertain wind of
to-morrow. We therefore left Helgeraac immediately with the declining
sun.
Though we were in the open sea, we sailed more amongst the rocks and
islands than in my passage from Stromstad; and they often forced very
picturesque combinations. Few of the high ridges were entirely bare; the
seeds of some pines or firs had been wafted by the winds or waves, and
they stood to brave the elements.
Sitting, then, in a little boat on the ocean, amidst strangers, with
sorrow and care pressing hard on me--buffeting me about from clime to
clime--I felt
"Like the lone shrub at random cast,
That sighs and trembles at each blast!"
On some of the largest rocks there were actually groves, the retreat of
foxes and hares, which, I suppose, had tripped over the ice during the
winter, without thinking to regain the main land before the thaw.
Several of the islands were inhabited by pilots; and the Norwegian
pilots are allowed to be the best in the world--perfectly acquainted
with their coast, and ever at hand to observe the first signal or sail.
They pay a small tax to the king and to the regulating officer, and
enjoy the fruit of their indefatigable industry.
One of the islands, called Virgin Land, is a flat, with some depth of
earth, extending for half a Norwegian mile, with three farms on it,
tolerably well cultivated.
On some of the bare rocks I saw straggling houses; they rose above the
denomination of huts inhabited by fishermen. My companions assured me
that they were very comfortable dwellings, and that they have not only
the necessaries, but even what might be reckoned the superfluities of
life. It was too late for me to go on shore, if you will allow me to
give that name to shivering rocks, to ascertain the fact.
But rain coming on, and the night growing dark, the pilot declared that
it would be dangerous for us to attempt to go to the place of our
destination--East Rusoer--a Norwegian mile and a half further; and we
determined to stop for the night at a little haven, some half dozen
houses scattered under the curve of a rock. Though it became darker and
darker, our pilot avoided the blind rocks with great dexterity.
It was about ten o'clock when we arrived, and the old hostess quickly
prepared me a comfortable bed--a little too soft or so, but I was weary;
and opening the window to admit the sweetest of breezes to fan me to
sleep, I sunk into the most luxurious rest: it was more than refreshing.
The hospitable sprites of the grots surely hovered round my pillow; and,
if I awoke, it was to listen to the melodious whispering of the wind
amongst them, or to feel the mild breath of morn. Light slumbers
produced dreams, where Paradise was before me. My little cherub was
again hiding her face in my bosom. I heard her sweet cooing beat on my
heart from the cliffs, and saw her tiny footsteps on the sands. New-born
hopes seemed, like the rainbow, to appear in the clouds of sorrow,
faint, yet sufficient to amuse away despair.
Some refreshing but heavy showers have detained us; and here I am
writing quite alone--something more than gay, for which I want a name.
I could almost fancy myself in Nootka Sound, or on some of the islands
on the north-west coast of America. We entered by a narrow pass through
the rocks, which from this abode appear more romantic than you can well
imagine; and seal-skins hanging at the door to dry add to the illusion.
It is indeed a corner of the world, but you would be surprised to see
the cleanliness and comfort of the dwelling. The shelves are not only
shining with pewter and queen's ware, but some articles in silver, more
ponderous, it is true, than elegant. The linen is good, as well as
white. All the females spin, and there is a loom in the kitchen. A sort
of individual taste appeared in the arrangement of the furniture (this
is not the place for imitation) and a kindness in their desire to
oblige. How superior to the apish politeness of the towns! where the
people, affecting to be well bred, fatigue with their endless ceremony.
The mistress is a widow, her daughter is married to a pilot, and has
three cows. They have a little patch of land at about the distance of
two English miles, where they make hay for the winter, which they bring
home in a boat. They live here very cheap, getting money from the
vessels which stress of weather, or other causes, bring into their
harbour. I suspect, by their furniture, that they smuggle a little. I
can now credit the account of the other houses, which I last night
thought exaggerated.
I have been conversing with one of my companions respecting the laws and
regulations of Norway. He is a man within great portion of common sense
and heart--yes, a warm heart. This is not the first time I have remarked
heart without sentiment; they are distinct. The former depends on the
rectitude of the feelings, on truth of sympathy; these characters have
more tenderness than passion; the latter has a higher source--call it
imagination, genius, or what you will, it is something very different. I
have been laughing with these simple worthy folk--to give you one of my
half-score Danish words--and letting as much of my heart flow out in
sympathy as they can take. Adieu! I must trip up the rocks. The rain is
over. Let me catch pleasure on the wing--I may be melancholy to-morrow.
Now all my nerves keep time with the melody of nature. Ah! let me be
happy whilst I can. The tear starts as I think of it. I must flee from
thought, and find refuge from sorrow in a strong imagination--the only
solace for a feeling heart. Phantoms of bliss! ideal forms of
excellence! again enclose me in your magic circle, and wipe clear from
my remembrance the disappointments that reader the sympathy painful,
which experience rather increases than damps, by giving the indulgence
of feeling the sanction of reason.
Once more farewell!