Eleven days of weariness on board a vessel not intended for the
accommodation of passengers have so exhausted my spirits, to say nothing
of the other causes, with which you are already sufficiently acquainted,
that it is with some difficulty I adhere to my determination of giving
you my observations, as I travel through new scenes, whilst warmed with
the impression they have made on me.
The captain, as I mentioned to you, promised to put me on shore at
Arendall or Gothenburg in his way to Elsineur, but contrary winds
obliged us to pass both places during the night. In the morning,
however, after we had lost sight of the entrance of the latter bay, the
vessel was becalmed; and the captain, to oblige me, hanging out a signal
for a pilot, bore down towards the shore.
My attention was particularly directed to the lighthouse, and you can
scarcely imagine with what anxiety I watched two long hours for a boat
to emancipate me; still no one appeared. Every cloud that flitted on the
horizon was hailed as a liberator, till approaching nearer, like most of
the prospects sketched by hope, it dissolved under the eye into
disappointment.
Weary of expectation, I then began to converse with the captain on the
subject, and from the tenor of the information my questions drew forth I
soon concluded that if I waited for a boat I had little chance of
getting on shore at this place. Despotism, as is usually the case, I
found had here cramped the industry of man. The pilots being paid by
the king, and scantily, they will not run into any danger, or even quit
their hovels, if they can possibly avoid it, only to fulfil what is
termed their duty. How different is it on the English coast, where, in
the most stormy weather, boats immediately hail you, brought out by the
expectation of extraordinary profit.
Disliking to sail for Elsineur, and still more to lie at anchor or
cruise about the coast for several days, I exerted all my rhetoric to
prevail on the captain to let me have the ship's boat, and though I
added the most forcible of arguments, I for a long time addressed him in
vain.
It is a kind of rule at sea not to send out a boat. The captain was a
good-natured man; but men with common minds seldom break through general
rules. Prudence is ever the resort of weakness, and they rarely go as
far as they may in any undertaking who are determined not to go beyond
it on any account. If, however, I had some trouble with the captain, I
did not lose much time with the sailors, for they, all alacrity, hoisted
out the boat the moment I obtained permission, and promised to row me to
the lighthouse.
I did not once allow myself to doubt of obtaining a conveyance from
thence round the rocks--and then away for Gothenburg--confinement is so
unpleasant.
The day was fine, and I enjoyed the water till, approaching the little
island, poor Marguerite, whose timidity always acts as a feeler before
her adventuring spirit, began to wonder at our not seeing any
inhabitants. I did not listen to her. But when, on landing, the same
silence prevailed, I caught the alarm, which was not lessened by the
sight of two old men whom we forced out of their wretched hut. Scarcely
human in their appearance, we with difficulty obtained an intelligible
reply to our questions, the result of which was that they had no boat,
and were not allowed to quit their post on any pretence. But they
informed us that there was at the other side, eight or ten miles over, a
pilot's dwelling. Two guineas tempted the sailors to risk the captain's
displeasure, and once more embark to row me over.
The weather was pleasant, and the appearance of the shore so grand that
I should have enjoyed the two hours it took to reach it, but for the
fatigue which was too visible in the countenances of the sailors, who,
instead of uttering a complaint, were, with the thoughtless hilarity
peculiar to them, joking about the possibility of the captain's taking
advantage of a slight westerly breeze, which was springing up, to sail
without them. Yet, in spite of their good humour, I could not help
growing uneasy when the shore, receding, as it were, as we advanced,
seemed to promise no end to their toil. This anxiety increased when,
turning into the most picturesque bay I ever saw, my eyes sought in vain
for the vestige of a human habitation. Before I could determine what
step to take in such a dilemma (for I could not bear to think of
returning to the ship), the sight of a barge relieved me, and we
hastened towards it for information. We were immediately directed to
pass some jutting rocks, when we should see a pilot's hut.
There was a solemn silence in this scene which made itself be felt. The
sunbeams that played on the ocean, scarcely ruffled by the lightest
breeze, contrasted with the huge dark rocks, that looked like the rude
materials of creation forming the barrier of unwrought space, forcibly
struck me, but I should not have been sorry if the cottage had not
appeared equally tranquil. Approaching a retreat where strangers,
especially women, so seldom appeared, I wondered that curiosity did not
bring the beings who inhabited it to the windows or door. I did not
immediately recollect that men who remain so near the brute creation, as
only to exert themselves to find the food necessary to sustain life,
have little or no imagination to call forth the curiosity necessary to
fructify the faint glimmerings of mind which entitle them to rank as
lords of the creation. Had they either they could not contentedly remain
rooted in the clods they so indolently cultivate.
Whilst the sailors went to seek for the sluggish inhabitants, these
conclusions occurred to me; and, recollecting the extreme fondness which
the Parisians ever testify for novelty, their very curiosity appeared to
me a proof of the progress they had made in refinement. Yes, in the art
of living--in the art of escaping from the cares which embarrass the
first steps towards the attainment of the pleasures of social life.
The pilots informed the sailors that they were under the direction of a
lieutenant retired from the service, who spoke English; adding that they
could do nothing without his orders, and even the offer of money could
hardly conquer their laziness and prevail on them to accompany us to his
dwelling. They would not go with me alone, which I wanted them to have
done, because I wished to dismiss the sailors as soon as possible. Once
more we rowed off, they following tardily, till, turning round another
bold protuberance of the rocks, we saw a boat making towards us, and
soon learnt that it was the lieutenant himself, coming with some
earnestness to see who we were.
To save the sailors any further toil, I had my baggage instantly removed
into his boat; for, as he could speak English, a previous parley was not
necessary, though Marguerite's respect for me could hardly keep her from
expressing the fear, strongly marked on her countenance, which my
putting ourselves into the power of a strange man excited. He pointed
out his cottage; and, drawing near to it, I was not sorry to see a
female figure, though I had not, like Marguerite, been thinking of
robberies, murders, or the other evil which instantly, as the sailors
would have said, runs foul of a woman's imagination.
On entering I was still better pleased to find a clean house, with some
degree of rural elegance. The beds were of muslin, coarse it is true,
but dazzlingly white; and the floor was strewed over with little sprigs
of juniper (the custom, as I afterwards found, of the country), which
formed a contrast with the curtains, and produced an agreeable sensation
of freshness, to soften the ardour of noon. Still nothing was so
pleasing as the alacrity of hospitality--all that the house afforded was
quickly spread on the whitest linen. Remember, I had just left the
vessel, where, without being fastidious, I had continually been
disgusted. Fish, milk, butter, and cheese, and, I am sorry to add,
brandy, the bane of this country, were spread on the board. After we had
dined hospitality made them, with some degree of mystery, bring us some
excellent coffee. I did not then know that it was prohibited.
The good man of the house apologised for coming in continually, but
declared that he was so glad to speak English he could not stay out. He
need not have apologised; I was equally glad of his company. With the
wife I could only exchange smiles, and she was employed observing the
make of our clothes. My hands, I found, had first led her to discover
that I was the lady. I had, of course, my quantum of reverences; for the
politeness of the north seems to partake of the coldness of the climate
and the rigidity of its iron-sinewed rocks. Amongst the peasantry there
is, however, so much of the simplicity of the golden age in this land of
flint--so much overflowing of heart and fellow-feeling, that only
benevolence and the honest sympathy of nature diffused smiles over my
countenance when they kept me standing, regardless of my fatigue, whilst
they dropped courtesy after courtesy.
The situation of this house was beautiful, though chosen for
convenience. The master being the officer who commanded all the pilots
on the coast, and the person appointed to guard wrecks, it was necessary
for him to fix on a spot that would overlook the whole bay. As he had
seen some service, he wore, not without a pride I thought becoming, a
badge to prove that he had merited well of his country. It was happy, I
thought, that he had been paid in honour, for the stipend he received
was little more than twelve pounds a year. I do not trouble myself or
you with the calculation of Swedish ducats. Thus, my friend, you
perceive the necessity of perquisites. This same narrow policy runs
through everything. I shall have occasion further to animadvert on it.
Though my host amused me with an account of himself, which gave me an
idea of the manners of the people I was about to visit, I was eager to
climb the rocks to view the country, and see whether the honest tars had
regained their ship. With the help of the lieutenant's telescope, I saw
the vessel under way with a fair though gentle gale. The sea was calm,
playful even as the most shallow stream, and on the vast basin I did not
see a dark speck to indicate the boat. My conductors were consequently
arrived.
Straying further, my eye was attracted by the sight of some heartsease
that peeped through the rocks. I caught at it as a good omen, and going
to preserve it in a letter that had not conveyed balm to my heart, a
cruel remembrance suffused my eyes; but it passed away like an April
shower. If you are deep read in Shakespeare, you will recollect that
this was the little western flower tinged by love's dart, which "maidens
call love in idleness." The gaiety of my babe was unmixed; regardless
of omens or sentiments, she found a few wild strawberries more grateful
than flowers or fancies.
The lieutenant informed me that this was a commodious bay. Of that I
could not judge, though I felt its picturesque beauty. Rocks were piled
on rocks, forming a suitable bulwark to the ocean. "Come no further,"
they emphatically said, turning their dark sides to the waves to augment
the idle roar. The view was sterile; still little patches of earth of
the most exquisite verdure, enamelled with the sweetest wild flowers,
seemed to promise the goats and a few straggling cows luxurious herbage.
How silent and peaceful was the scene! I gazed around with rapture, and
felt more of that spontaneous pleasure which gives credibility to our
expectation of happiness than I had for a long, long time before. I
forgot the horrors I had witnessed in France, which had cast a gloom
over all nature, and suffering the enthusiasm of my character--too
often, gracious God! damped by the tears of disappointed affection--to
be lighted up afresh, care took wing while simple fellow-feeling
expanded my heart.
To prolong this enjoyment, I readily assented to the proposal of our
host to pay a visit to a family, the master of which spoke English, who
was the drollest dog in the country, he added, repeating some of his
stories with a hearty laugh.
I walked on, still delighted with the rude beauties of the scene; for
the sublime often gave place imperceptibly to the beautiful, dilating
the emotions which were painfully concentrated.
When we entered this abode, the largest I had yet seen, I was introduced
to a numerous family; but the father, from whom I was led to expect so
much entertainment, was absent. The lieutenant consequently was obliged
to be the interpreter of our reciprocal compliments. The phrases were
awkwardly transmitted, it is true; but looks and gestures were
sufficient to make them intelligible and interesting. The girls were all
vivacity, and respect for me could scarcely keep them from romping with
my host, who, asking for a pinch of snuff, was presented with a box, out
of which an artificial mouse, fastened to the bottom, sprang. Though
this trick had doubtless been played time out of mind, yet the laughter
it excited was not less genuine.
They were overflowing with civility; but, to prevent their almost
killing my babe with kindness, I was obliged to shorten my visit; and
two or three of the girls accompanied us, bringing with them a part of
whatever the house afforded to contribute towards rendering my supper
more plentiful; and plentiful in fact it was, though I with difficulty
did honour to some of the dishes, not relishing the quantity of sugar
and spices put into everything. At supper my host told me bluntly that I
was a woman of observation, for I asked him _men's questions_.
The arrangements for my journey were quickly made. I could only have a
car with post-horses, as I did not choose to wait till a carriage could
be sent for to Gothenburg. The expense of my journey (about one or two
and twenty English miles) I found would not amount to more than eleven
or twelve shillings, paying, he assured me, generously. I gave him a
guinea and a half. But it was with the greatest difficulty that I could
make him take so much--indeed anything--for my lodging and fare. He
declared that it was next to robbing me, explaining how much I ought to
pay on the road. However, as I was positive, he took the guinea for
himself; but, as a condition, insisted on accompanying me, to prevent my
meeting with any trouble or imposition on the way.
I then retired to my apartment with regret. The night was so fine that I
would gladly have rambled about much longer, yet, recollecting that I
must rise very early, I reluctantly went to bed; but my senses had been
so awake, and my imagination still continued so busy, that I sought for
rest in vain. Rising before six, I scented the sweet morning air; I had
long before heard the birds twittering to hail the dawning day, though
it could scarcely have been allowed to have departed.
Nothing, in fact, can equal the beauty of the northern summer's evening
and night, if night it may be called that only wants the glare of day,
the full light which frequently seems so impertinent, for I could write
at midnight very well without a candle. I contemplated all Nature at
rest; the rocks, even grown darker in their appearance, looked as if
they partook of the general repose, and reclined more heavily on their
foundation. "What," I exclaimed, "is this active principle which keeps
me still awake? Why fly my thoughts abroad, when everything around me
appears at home?" My child was sleeping with equal calmness--innocent
and sweet as the closing flowers. Some recollections, attached to the
idea of home, mingled with reflections respecting the state of society I
had been contemplating that evening, made a tear drop on the rosy cheek
I had just kissed, and emotions that trembled on the brink of ecstasy
and agony gave a poignancy to my sensations which made me feel more
alive than usual.
What are these imperious sympathies? How frequently has melancholy and
even misanthropy taken possession of me, when the world has disgusted
me, and friends have proved unkind. I have then considered myself as a
particle broken off from the grand mass of mankind; I was alone, till
some involuntary sympathetic emotion, like the attraction of adhesion,
made me feel that I was still a part of a mighty whole, from which I
could not sever myself--not, perhaps, for the reflection has been
carried very far, by snapping the thread of an existence, which loses
its charms in proportion as the cruel experience of life stops or
poisons the current of the heart. Futurity, what hast thou not to give
to those who know that there is such a thing as happiness! I speak not
of philosophical contentment, though pain has afforded them the
strongest conviction of it.
After our coffee and milk--for the mistress of the house had been roused
long before us by her hospitality--my baggage was taken forward in a
boat by my host, because the car could not safely have been brought to
the house.
The road at first was very rocky and troublesome, but our driver was
careful, and the horses accustomed to the frequent and sudden
acclivities and descents; so that, not apprehending any danger, I played
with my girl, whom I would not leave to Marguerite's care, on account of
her timidity.
Stopping at a little inn to bait the horses, I saw the first countenance
in Sweden that displeased me, though the man was better dressed than any
one who had as yet fallen in my way. An altercation took place between
him and my host, the purport of which I could not guess, excepting that
I was the occasion of it, be it what it would. The sequel was his
leaving the house angrily; and I was immediately informed that he was
the custom-house officer. The professional had indeed effaced the
national character, for, living as he did within these frank hospitable
people, still only the exciseman appeared, the counterpart of some I had
met with in England and France. I was unprovided with a passport, not
having entered any great town. At Gothenburg I knew I could immediately
obtain one, and only the trouble made me object to the searching my
trunks. He blustered for money; but the lieutenant was determined to
guard me, according to promise, from imposition.
To avoid being interrogated at the town-gate, and obliged to go in the
rain to give an account of myself (merely a form) before we could get
the refreshment we stood in need of, he requested us to descend--I might
have said step--from our car, and walk into town.
I expected to have found a tolerable inn, but was ushered into a most
comfortless one; and, because it was about five o'clock, three or four
hours after their dining hour, I could not prevail on them to give me
anything warm to eat.
The appearance of the accommodations obliged me to deliver one of my
recommendatory letters, and the gentleman to whom it was addressed sent
to look out for a lodging for me whilst I partook of his supper. As
nothing passed at this supper to characterise the country, I shall here
close my letter.
Yours truly.