=52. Equestrians and Gymnasts.= In equestrian entertainments, much

depends on the accessories. Without music, artificial light, and

paintings, they would be rather tame. The principal requisites for a

circus rider I take to be agility, grace, and fearlessness. Size and

form have not so much to do in making a successful rider and gymnast as

one would suppose. The athletic exercises require vigor and firmness of

muscle. One should be trained from the earliest childhood. Children

usually begin as early as three years old. In former times, these

children were, many of them, picked up in the streets, and there is no

doubt that these human waifs had a hard time of it; but now many of the

professionals bring up their own children to the business. All the

performers, in addition to their several "star" or "single" acts in the

ring, are required to appear in any capacity assigned them in the scenic

pieces and spectacles, and to attend the rehearsals of the same; also,

to appear and remain on the stage in proper dresses, for the purpose of

filling the scene, and giving a gay and animated appearance to the

stage. Mr. Nixon's establishment, New York, being the most complete in

the country, and being thoroughly systematized in every department, will

serve as the best source from which to derive information concerning the

routine duties required, and the weekly moneys paid there to circus

performers. "The principal performers in Mr. Nixon's company are paid as

follows: Ella Zoyara, equestrian, in addition to first-class passage

from England and back for self and two servants, medical attendance for

self and servants, carriage and horses whenever required, and a benefit

every two weeks, receives per week $500; Mr. William Cooke, equestrian,

manager, passages for self and wife from England and return, and per

week, $500; James Robinson, equestrian, for self and three horses, $305;

the Hanlon brothers, six persons, gymnasts, per week $300; Mr. Charlton,

stilt walker, passage, &c., $125; Mr. Duverey, contortionist, passage,

&c., $125; Mlle. Heloise, equestrienne, $100; Mlle. Clementine,

equestrienne, $100; M. and Mad. Du Boch, equestrians, $100; Master

Barclay, equestrian, ten years old, $75; Mr. Whitby, ringmaster and

equestrian, $100; Mr. S. Stikney, equestrian and general performer,

$100; Mr. J. Pentland, clown, $100; Mr. Ellingham, ringmaster and

general performer, $40; Mr. Armstrong, equestrian and general performer,

$40; W. Kincaid, do., $40; W. Pastor, do., $30; W. Bertine, do., $30;

Brennan, do., $25; Niel, do., $25; F. Sylvester, do., $20; A. Sylvester,

do., $20; W. Ward, slack rope and clown, $30; Prof. Yates, ballet

master, $25; Mr. Stark, general performer, $25; S. Ruggles, $20;

Davenport, $20; Foster, $20; Peterson, $20; four lady equestrians, per

week, each $20; and twenty ballet girls and twenty supernumeraries." We

extract from an English paper the following statement: "In Paris, no

less than 15,000 persons were admitted yesterday, although the prices

were doubled for the occasion, to witness the performance on the tight

rope of a woman--Madame Blanche Saqui--who is entering her eighty-fifth

year."

=53. Etchers and Stamp Cutters.= In England, in the seventeenth century,

Anna and Susannah Lister were regarded as having much skill in the noble

art of etching. They illustrated a work on natural history written by

their father. A century later, the Countess Lavinia Spencer and a Miss

Hartley became noted for their skill in etching. Rosa Elizabeth

Schwindel, of Leipsic, worked at the business of a stamp cutter in the

beginning of the eighteenth century; and two Frenchwomen during the same

century--M. A. de St. Urbin and E. Lesueur.

=54. Herbarium Makers.= Herbariums are collections of dried plants. They

are formed by gluing to sheets of paper the flowers and leaves of

plants, after they have been pressed and dried. To botanists, they are

useful; and a choice collection is a frail, but pretty ornament, for a

centre table. The largest public herbaria are at Berlin, Paris, and

London. It is supposed that some of them may contain as many as 60,000

species. There is not much of beauty or interest in such a collection,

but for scientific purposes they may be valuable. It is not unusual to

see them made of the plants and weeds of the sea; and a very pretty

collection do they make, if got up with taste. A book has been lately

printed containing plates, with explanations for making them into

pictures and other fanciful arrangements. The making of herbariums of

both earth and marine plants, would furnish a pleasant pastime to ladies

of leisure, and a source of revenue, perhaps, to those who might wish to

make it a matter of profit.

=55. Lapidaries.= A skilful manipulation is necessary to the business of

a lapidary. If woman has sufficient firmness of nerve to perform the

duties of surgeon, we see not why she would not have for the cutting of

precious stones. It is a business conducted on a limited scale and by

few persons in this country. Mr. R., of New York, told me that a lady in

Birmingham, England, had a large establishment, and employed women and

girls to work for her. He knew of no lady that worked at the business in

the United States, except one that used to be in an establishment on

Broadway. The employment, he thinks, is not unhealthy. After a lady has

learned, she would probably earn from $4 to $5 a week, working for

others. He received $12 a week when working as a journeyman. He spent

seven years as an apprentice in England, but he learned the manufacture

of jewelry in connection. The prospect of employment depends much on the

condition of the money market, but there is reason to think the business

will increase as the country grows older. All seasons of the year are

alike. Money matters only make a change. He says there are many books

written on the precious stones and the art of cutting and polishing

them. He mentioned a book by a lady of London on the subject. Mr. H., an

importer and manufacturer of cornelian and other fancy goods, told me

that grinding precious stones is very hard work. Men lie across wooden

benches to apply the agate, cornelian, or whatever it may be, to the

grindstone. There are eight grindstones, weighing twenty tons each, on

one axle. The polishing is done by boys, who sit at small wooden wheels,

some of which are covered with leather. Sometimes women do this work. As

this method of grinding stones is done by water power, it is done more

cheaply than by steam. In Germany, a man who works at precious stones or

makes up jewelry at home, has his wife and daughters to assist him, and

hires a peasant girl to do his housework. The women and girls make the

fastenings for earrings, and file and polish the rings. He pays seventy

cents a gross in Germany for them. He says, in the country and villages

of northern Germany daughters are considered treasures, for they remain

at home, and by their handiwork maintain themselves; but in the south of

Germany, where there are no manufactures, girls are a burden on their

parents. B., of Philadelphia, used to employ girls to set up jet,

garnet, and turquoise for grinding; but those stones are now out of

fashion, and so girls are not employed. He says an old lady, whose

daughter is connected with the Home Mission, wished them to give

instruction to her daughter in cutting stones, that she might, as a

pastime, cut those brought by members of the family from the seashore

and watering places. He thought it likely she would also teach the art

in the Mission School. Cutting facets he thought pretty work for women.

They can either sit or stand at the tables. There is nothing unhealthy

in the grinding, as the stones are kept wet all the time. But the dust

used in nipping glass and stones is injurious to the lungs. When a man

has been nipping all day, his nostrils are nearly closed. The amount of

work depends on fashion. There are seven establishments in Providence,

and the work is done by steam. Some stones cannot be cut by steam

machinery, as the wheel must every few seconds be graduated in motion.

In hard times, the jewelry business and employments connected therewith

are dull, as people dispense with superfluities. Southerners buy most

jewelry, but now they do not indulge in such purchases.

=56. Landscape Gardeners.= Mrs. R. often goes and looks at gardens,

directs how to lay them out, and what to buy for them. She then orders

the plants of others, and sells on commission, having them arranged

according to her own taste, influenced by that of the purchaser. Her

purchases are made of a German, living some distance from town, who can

raise them cheaper than she could in the city. Her compensation, of

course, varies greatly. A landscape gardener writes: "What a lady could

do as landscape gardener at the West, I do not know. I am rather

inclined to doubt her success at the East. It would require too much

time and space to enter here into the details of what are required to

constitute a landscape gardener: First, one must have a decided love for

it, and a willingness to sacrifice much to the pleasure of the

occupation. Nor can I say a great deal in favor of the profits. I have

never been able to make a living by the profession, although I have

often thought if I had gone to New York, or farther West, the case might

have been different. In pages 381 and 382 of 'Country Life,' and in many

other parts of the book, you will see what I consider essential to the

making up and preparation of a landscape gardener, and better expressed

than I can condense into a letter." Mr. C., of Massachusetts, writes: "I

have never known a lady to undertake the profession of landscape

gardening; and much of the labor which I find it necessary to perform,

would be impossible for a lady. Still, there is much in which female

taste would find abundant field for exertion, if the labor could be so

divided as to make it profitable. My first work on any estate is to make

an accurate topographical survey of the ground, and draw a plan of it in

its natural state, and then proceed to make my designs for its

arrangement; and when that is done, if required, I undertake the

superintendence of the work at the ground. A lady would have to employ a

surveyor, in the first place, and would labor under many disadvantages

in directing the operations upon grounds; and, to judge from my own

experience, the business could not be made profitable under such

circumstances. Loudon's 'Encyclopædia of Gardening' will give the best

directions I know of for the necessary operations of designing and

executing plans, and Downing's work, with Sargent's appendix, comprises

enough suggestions, on matters of taste, for the use of any person who

is possessed of innate natural taste, without which I would advise no

one to attempt to be a landscape gardener."

=57. Lithographers.= The impression for chalk drawings is made by

delicate manipulations with crayon pencils; for ink drawings, with steel

pens and camel-hair brushes. It requires one skilled in the use of her

pencil, for every stroke of the pencil or pen on the stone remains, and

cannot be erased. Consequently, any defect on the stone is conveyed to

every copy of the paper. In answer to a letter of inquiry, respecting

the time necessary for preparation, the writer says: "A person who draws

well upon paper would, I should think, with six months' practice on

stone, become proficient. The process differs little from crayon drawing

on paper; and the progress of pupils depends entirely on their previous

attainments in drawing. The different kinds of lithography are black,

chromo, and gold illuminated; also, lithography combined, or uncombined,

with embossing. In a report of a British school of design, it is stated

that the chromo-lithographic class for females "exhibit the commencement

of a series of useful labors." An immense number of cheap lithographs

are colored by women; such as are hung in taverns, country houses,

sailors' homes, servants' rooms, &c. At Mr. C.'s establishment, I was

told that in France the females are quite as successful as the male

artists in lithography. He says lithographs require to be more highly

colored than the colors we see in nature. Mr. C. thinks of sending to

France for lithographers, as he cannot get enough in New York well

qualified. A correct eye, skilful manipulation, and an appreciation of

art are required to make one skilful in lithography. Germans excel,

because they have so much patience. An American would become nervous at

the slow work that they prosecute with the greatest pleasure. At Mr.

C.'s they have a forewoman, who superintends the girls, who are paid by

the quantity and kind of work they do. He finds that small girls are

usually the best workers. Their fingers are more nimble, and they enter

into it with more zeal. He thinks it best for them to commence at ten or

twelve years of age. Prospect good for employment in that branch. The

coloring of all the finest pictures is done by men. It requires some

time to become sufficiently expert to earn much. Their girls earn from

$3 to $7 a week. The work requires care, and is wearisome, because of

sitting long and steadily. Mrs. P., Brooklyn, an English lady, learned

to draw when eight years old, and studied lithography with a

distinguished artist of London, who executed entirely with his left

hand, having lost three fingers on his right when he was a child. She

has spent twenty-two years in lithographing--seventeen of them in this

country. She is probably the only lady professionally engaged in this

business in the United States. She has earned almost constantly, I was

told, from $12 to $30 a week. Lithographing is very lucrative to a

skilful artist. The remuneration is better than women often receive for

their handiwork. We believe some women could find employment in it, if

they were prepared. Mrs. P. excels in architectural drawing. She thinks

one must have the talent of an artist, and great practice with the

pencil, to succeed. She has given instruction to several youths, but

never to one of her own sex. One must be articled, and pass through a

regular course of advancement, to follow it advantageously. To an

apprentice, after two or three years' practice, a small premium is paid.

She had one youth to learn of her, who, after four years' time, received

$7 a week from her for his work. She thinks there will be employment to

a few well qualified. She has always been kept busy. The employment is

not more unhealthy than any other of a sedentary kind. Mr. M. says they

have no difficulty in finding enough of crayon lithographers, but that

there is more lithographic engraving done than crayon lithographing. It

is done on stone with instruments, very much as engraving is done on

copper. We have read "that an improved method of transferring copies of

delicate copper and steel plate engravings to the surface of

lithographic stone has been invented. One copy taken from the steel or

copper plate, after being transferred to the stone, is capable of

producing 3,000 prints." "Lithography, engraving, and especially

engraving on wood, would gain in quality by passing from men's hands to

the hands of women." "Lithographic works are produced which rival the

finest engravings, and even surpass them, in the expression of certain

subjects." The first lithography executed in the United States was in

Boston, 1826. W. & S. used to employ girls to color lithographs, but

found it did not pay. They paid from $4 to $5 a week to women, who did

the common part of the work. Men did the finer parts, and earned from

$12 to $25 a week; but only those who are expert, have artistic taste,

and understand the business, can earn so much. French lithographs are

prepared and the coloring done so much cheaper in Europe, they have

ceased to have it done in New York. B., lithographer, Philadelphia,

employs many ladies--about twenty--in the house. Some associate in

companies, and take their work to the house of one of their number; but

the greater part are educated women, who do not wish it known that they

earn money by their labor: these carry the plates to their own homes

(and even have them sent to the fashionable places of resort in summer),

so that many a fair damsel trips along Chestnut street with a roll of

something, which seems to be music, but is, in fact, work. The coarse

handed take no part in this employment. Very few have ever attained the

highest degree of proficiency in it. The most delicate work is done by

men. Americans have most aptness for coloring, although the Germans

excel in drawing on stone. Women seldom attempt the latter art. It

requires long practice for girls to excel in coloring. Many grades of

skill are required to color lithographs, and there is much difficulty in

making all the copies exactly like the first. Some need a treatment so

nearly approaching the artistic, that scarcely any one who has the skill

can be found to give his labor for the price, which is necessarily

limited. We gained no information as to the amount of wages paid to the

colorists, but, judging from the price of a very beautiful specimen (29

cents), it must be sadly inadequate. The scientific societies are the

main support of this business. The Government, indeed, gives very

extensive orders, but there is always so much competition to obtain

them, that the profit is small. Audubon was the greatest encourager of

this branch of industry. This employment is very desirable in every

respect for educated women; and although machinery for printing in

colors is fast encroaching on it, yet it will long offer a field for

female enterprise. Our informant employs from 100 to 300 hands,

according to the prosperity of the times. A commercial crisis affects

this as well as all other trades. One of the firm of the best

lithographic establishment in New York, told me they pay their men for

drawing on stone from $25 to $30 a week. The time required to learn

lithography, he thought, would depend much on natural talent. A good

knowledge of drawing is necessary. He thought men would soon get over

the opposition of women entering the business; but they did not like the

restraint of working where women are. They would soon become accustomed

to it; and if they were women of the right kind, it might be a very

beneficial restraint. But, as to that, women could do the work at home.

Many Germans, well acquainted with the art, are engaged in crayoning.

When they first come to this country, they work for lower wages than

Americans, but after a while learn their value, and ask as much as any

one else. On account of the low wages for which foreigners can usually

be had, but few Americans have prepared themselves for this occupation.

But when work is plenty, and the individual industrious and skilful, he

can earn good wages. Seven eighths of the work done for this country is

executed in New York. The agent of a lithographic company writes:

"Drawing on stone could be done by women as well as men; and would open

to them a very genteel and remunerative branch of business. The drawing

is now done mostly by Germans and Frenchmen; but ladies who have a taste

for drawing could soon learn this art. The usual price for such artists

now is from $12 to $35 per week." Prof. P., of New York, gives

instruction in lithography, charging $12 per quarter of eleven

weeks--two lessons per week. Special arrangements are made with pupils

who intend to devote themselves to the profession as artists or

teachers. A gentleman remarked to me that Mr. S., a certain

distinguished lithographer of this city (New York), would make an

excellent teacher in that art. His forte is heads. A few strokes from

his pencil always give a beautiful finish to a piece of work.

=58. Map Makers.= Women could not well travel about to obtain

information of localities for the making of maps, but nearly all the

manual labor connected with the business would be very suitable for

them. Lithographing maps is said to be a profitable branch of the art,

and opens a field to competent women. Attending the machines for making

impressions from the stones might very well be performed by women. "In

Philadelphia, map coloring gives employment to about 175 females, some

of whom display exquisite taste in this delicate art." There used to be

150 girls in New York painting maps, but there are very few now.

Freedley tells of a map-manufacturing establishment in Philadelphia that

"turns out 1,200 maps weekly. Connected with it are two lithographic

printing offices, having twenty presses, and coloring rooms, in which 35

females are employed." I was told by a lady who had colored maps, that

it is trying on the eyes and poorly compensated. A map maker said he was

always most busy in the fall, and then employed from 12 to 16 women. In

winter he employed about half that number, and they principally married

women, who have worked for them several years. Mr. W. pays two of his

best and most experienced lady workers a certain sum by the week, and

they hire girls and women to work for them. The profits of these

forewomen, aside from their own work, amount to $1.50 to $2 a week the

year round. Girls receive $1.50 a week while learning. It requires from

six months to one year to become proficient. Neatness, a steady hand,

knowledge of colors, and fineness of touch, are the principal requisites

for a good map colorist. It requires no artistic knowledge. An

expeditious and experienced hand can earn $1 a day. There is at present

a need of hands in New York, and a surplus in Philadelphia. All seasons

are alike in this business, except as monetary affairs are concerned.

All Mr. W.'s hands work in the house. They work about nine hours a day

all the year, and never take maps home with them, as they are mostly

large and heavy maps. Map making is mostly confined to Philadelphia and

New York. None are made in the South and West. There is one map

publisher reported in Richmond, but he has his maps made in New York.

Mr. C. gives his maps to a map mounter, who employs a girl to sew the

bindings on with a sewing machine. She is paid at the same rate as any

other operator. The paper bindings are of course pasted on. Mr. C.

employs one girl to paint the outlines, but all the other painting is

done by stencil plates. Map coloring formerly gave employment to many

females, but now it is very rare that a map is colored by hand. The

stencilling process introduced by the Germans has superseded it, as they

are thereby rendered cheaper. Girls used to earn 75 cents to $1 a day

for painting maps. If girls would learn stencilling and work on their

own responsibility, they might compete with the Germans. The process is

very simple and soon learned. At Mr. H.'s, I saw a large room full of

Germans stencilling. Men earn $8 or $9 a week, and do it faster and

better than girls, as they have more strength. I saw one girl shading,

who earned $1 a day. A map manufacturer writes me: "In map coloring I am

compelled to employ men to a large extent. A curious fact is, that

respectable middle-aged women, who have been coloring for years on

piecework, make from $4 to $5 per week; while young men, comparatively

unpractised, earn at the same prices, say from $9 to $10." A

manufacturer who employs about 80 females, writes: "I employ women in

pasting and putting down maps, who receive from $3 to $4 a week, being

paid by the week, and working ten hours a day. The difference in prices

of male and female labor is about one half. One can learn the business

in a few weeks; the only qualifications requisite are sobriety and

strength. The prospect for work in this branch is good. There is no

difference in the seasons. Some parts of the work can be done more

cheaply by women. A supply of hands can always be had. The women do

their work less carefully than men." A map publisher in New Hampshire

writes: "I employ 28 women and girls in binding, mounting, stitching,

and coloring maps, and pay from $3 to $6 per week, working eight hours a

day. The engraving is done by men, who receive from $6 to $20 per week.

Women's labor can be learned in a few weeks, and is not so hard or

difficult as men's. Engravers spend three years learning. I employ women

to color, because they have better taste than men. Draughting surveys,

engraving, and lithographing have never been attempted by women. New

York is preferable as a locality." A gentleman in Boston writes: "We

employ from four to eight women in our map-mounting department. They

could not be employed in any other branch, which is varnishing and

polishing all kinds of hard wood. There are a large number employed in

New York, Philadelphia, and Buffalo. Pay varies from $3 to $5 per

week--ten hours a day. We employ no men in this branch. There is

something new to learn every day. Business is the same all the year. We

pay our girls nothing while learning." A lithographer in Boston writes:

"I employ women to color maps and pictures, paying by the piece, the

workers earning from $3 to $6 per week. The employment is not

unhealthy."

=59. Medallists.= "Beatrice Hamerani worked at medallions, and in 1700

elaborated a large medallion of Pope Innocent XII., highly praised by

Goethe." "Toward the end of the seventeenth century we hear of Madame

Ravemann, who executed a beautiful medal, an exquisite specimen of

cutting." In the school of design in New York, we saw two very

creditable medallions, executed by one of the members of the school.

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