III. THE CENTRAL PLATEAU

Now is required a special quality of the imagination, not in myself, but

in my readers, for it becomes necessary for them to grasp the logic of

a whole country in one mental effort. The difficulties to me are very

real. If I am to tell you it all in detail, your mind becomes confused

to the point of mingling the ingredients of the description. The

resultant mental picture is a composite; it mixes localities wide

apart; it comes out, like the snake-creeper-swamp-forest thing of

grammar-school South America, an unreal and deceitful impression. If,

on the other hand, I try to give you a bird's-eye view-saying, here

is plain, and there follows upland, and yonder succeed mountains and

hills-you lose the sense of breadth and space and the toil of many

days. The feeling of onward outward extending distance is gone; and that

impression so indispensable to finite understanding-“here am I, and what

is beyond is to be measured by the length of my legs and the toil of

my days.” You will not stop long enough on my plains to realize their

physical extent nor their influence on the human soul. If I mention them

in a sentence, you dismiss them in a thought. And that is something the

plains themselves refuse to permit you to do. Yet sometimes one must

become a guide-book, and bespeak his reader's imagination.

The country, then, wherein we travelled begins at the sea. Along the

coast stretches a low rolling country of steaming tropics, grown with

cocoanuts, bananas, mangoes, and populated by a happy, half-naked race

of the Swahilis. Leaving the coast, the country rises through hills.

These hills are at first fertile and green and wooded. Later they turn

into an almost unbroken plateau of thorn scrub, cruel, monotonous,

almost impenetrable. Fix thorn scrub in your mind, with rhino trails,

and occasional openings for game, and a few rivers flowing through palms

and narrow jungle strips; fix it in your mind until your mind is filled

with it, until you are convinced that nothing else can exist in the

world but more and more of the monotonous, terrible, dry, onstretching

desert of thorn.

Then pass through this to the top of the hills inland, and journey over

these hills to the highland plains.

Now sense and appreciate these wide seas of and the hills and ranges

of mountains rising from them, and their infinite diversity of

country-their rivers marked by ribbons of jungle, their scattered-bush

and their thick-bush areas, their grass expanses, and their great

distances extending far over exceedingly wide horizons. Realize how many

weary hours you must travel to gain the nearest butte, what days of toil

the view from its top will disclose. Savour the fact that you can spend

months in its veriest corner without exhausting its possibilities. Then,

and not until then, raise your eyes to the low rising transverse range

that bands it to the west as the thorn desert bands it to the east.

And on these ranges are the forests, the great bewildering forests.

In what looks like a grove lying athwart a little hill you can lose

yourself for days. Here dwell millions of savages in an apparently

untouched wilderness. Here rises a snow mountain on the equator. Here

are tangles and labyrinths, great bamboo forests lost in folds of the

mightiest hills. Here are the elephants. Here are the swinging vines,

the jungle itself.

Yet finally it breaks. We come out on the edge of things and look down

on a great gash in the earth. It is like a sunken kingdom in itself,

miles wide, with its own mountain ranges, its own rivers, its own

landscape features. Only on either side of it rise the escarpments which

are the true level of the plateau. One can spend two months in this

valley, too, and in the countries south to which it leads. And on its

farther side are the high plateau plains again, or the forests, or the

desert, or the great lakes that lie at the source of the Nile.

So now, perhaps, we are a little prepared to go ahead. The guide-book

work is finished for good and all. There is the steaming hot low coast

belt, and the hot dry thorn desert belt, and the varied immense plains,

and the high mountain belt of the forests, and again the variegated wide

country of the Rift Valley and the high plateau. To attempt to tell

you seriatim and in detail just what they are like is the task of an

encyclopaedist. Perhaps more indirectly you may be able to fill in the

picture of the country, the people, and the beasts.

The Land of Footprints · 第 4 / 44 题