"The fact is," said Jenny, as she twirled a little hat on her hand,
which she had been making over, with nobody knows what of bows and
pompons, and other matters for which the women have curious
names,--"the fact is, American women and girls must learn to
economize; it isn't merely restricting one's self to American goods,
it is general economy, that is required. Now here's this hat,--costs
me only three dollars, all told; and Sophie Page bought an English one
this morning at Madam Meyer's for which she gave fifteen. And I really
don't think hers has more of an air than mine. I made this over, you
see, with things I had in the house, bought nothing but the ribbon,
and paid for altering and pressing, and there you see what a stylish
hat I have!"
"Lovely! admirable!" said Miss Featherstone. "Upon my word, Jenny, you
ought to marry a poor parson; you would be quite thrown away upon a
rich man."
"Let me see," said I. "I want to admire intelligently. That isn't the
hat you were wearing yesterday?"
"Oh no, papa! This is just done. The one I wore yesterday was my
waterfall-hat, with the green feather; this, you see, is an oriole."
"A what?"
"An oriole. Papa, how can you expect to learn about these things?"
"And that plain little black one, with the stiff crop of scarlet
feathers sticking straight up?"
"That's my jockey, papa, with a plume _en militaire_."
"And did the waterfall and the jockey cost anything?"
"They were very, very cheap, papa, all things considered. Miss
Featherstone will remember that the waterfall was a great bargain, and
I had the feather from last year; and as to the jockey, that was made
out of my last year's white one, dyed over. You know, papa, I always
take care of my things, and they last from year to year."
"I do assure you, Mr. Crowfield," said Miss Featherstone, "I never saw
such little economists as your daughters; it is perfectly wonderful
what they contrive to dress on. How they manage to do it I'm sure I
can't see. I never could, I'm convinced."
"Yes," said Jenny, "I've bought but just one new hat. I only wish you
could sit in church where we do, and see those Miss Fielders. Marianne
and I have counted six new hats apiece of those girls',--_new_, you
know, just out of the milliner's shop; and last Sunday they came out
in such lovely puffed tulle bonnets! Weren't they lovely, Marianne?
And next Sunday, I don't doubt, there'll be something else."
"Yes," said Miss Featherstone,--"their father, they say, has made a
million dollars lately on government contracts."
"For my part," said Jenny, "I think such extravagance, at such a time
as this, is shameful."
"Do you know," said I, "that I'm quite sure the Misses Fielder think
they are practicing rigorous economy?"
"Papa! Now there you are with your paradoxes! How can you say so?"
"I shouldn't be afraid to bet a pair of gloves, now," said I, "that
Miss Fielder thinks herself half ready for translation, because she
has bought only six new hats and a tulle bonnet so far in the season.
If it were not for her dear bleeding country, she would have had
thirty-six, like the Misses Sibthorpe. If we were admitted to the
secret councils of the Fielders, doubtless we should perceive what
temptations they daily resist; how perfectly rubbishy and dreadful
they suffer themselves to be, because they feel it important now, in
this crisis, to practice economy; how they abuse the Sibthorpes, who
have a new hat every time they drive out, and never think of wearing
one more than two or three times; how virtuous and self-denying they
feel when they think of the puffed tulle, for which they only gave
eighteen dollars, when Madame Caradori showed them those lovely ones,
like the Misses Sibthorpe's, for forty-five; and how they go home
descanting on virgin simplicity, and resolving that they will not
allow themselves to be swept into the vortex of extravagance, whatever
other people may do."
"Do you know," said Miss Featherstone, "I believe your papa is right?
I was calling on the oldest Miss Fielder the other day, and she told
me that she positively felt ashamed to go looking as she did, but that
she really did feel the necessity of economy. 'Perhaps we might afford
to spend more than some others,' she said; 'but it's so much better to
give the money to the Sanitary Commission!'"
"Furthermore," said I, "I am going to put forth another paradox, and
say that very likely there are some people looking on my girls, and
commenting on them for extravagance in having three hats, even though
made over, and contrived from last year's stock."
"They can't know anything about it, then," said Jenny decisively;
"for, certainly, nobody can be decent and invest less in millinery
than Marianne and I do."
"When I was a young lady," said my wife, "a well-dressed girl got her
a new bonnet in the spring, and another in the fall; that was the
extent of her purchases in this line. A second-best bonnet, left of
last year, did duty to relieve and preserve the best one. My father
was accounted well-to-do, but I had no more, and wanted no more. I
also bought myself, every spring, two pair of gloves, a dark and a
light pair, and wore them through the summer, and another two through
the winter; one or two pair of white kids, carefully cleaned, carried
me through all my parties. Hats had not been heard of, and the great
necessity which requires two or three new ones every spring and fall
had not arisen. Yet I was reckoned a well-appearing girl, who dressed
liberally. Now, a young lady who has a waterfall-hat, an oriole-hat,
and a jockey must still be troubled with anxious cares for her spring
and fall and summer and winter bonnets,--all the variety will not take
the place of them. Gloves are bought by the dozen; and as to dresses,
there seems to be no limit to the quantity of material and trimming
that may be expended upon them. When I was a young lady, seventy-five
dollars a year was considered by careful parents a liberal allowance
for a daughter's wardrobe. I had a hundred, and was reckoned rich; and
I sometimes used a part to make up the deficiencies in the allowance
of Sarah Evans, my particular friend, whose father gave her only
fifty. We all thought that a very scant allowance; yet she generally
made a very pretty and genteel appearance, with the help of occasional
presents from friends."
"How could a girl dress for fifty dollars?" said Marianne.
"She could get a white muslin and a white cambric, which, with
different sortings of ribbons, served her for all dress occasions. A
silk, in those days, took only ten yards in the making, and one dark
silk was considered a reasonable allowance to a lady's wardrobe. Once
made, it stood for something,--always worn carefully, it lasted for
years. One or two calico morning-dresses, and a merino for winter
wear, completed the list. Then, as to collars, capes, cuffs, etc., we
all did our own embroidering, and very pretty things we wore, too.
Girls looked as prettily then as they do now, when four or five
hundred dollars a year is insufficient to clothe them."
"But, mamma, you know our allowance isn't anything like that,--it is
quite a slender one, though not so small as yours was," said Marianne.
"Don't you think the customs of society make a difference? Do you
think, as things are, we could go back and dress for the sum you
did?"
"You cannot," said my wife, "without a greater sacrifice of feeling
than I wish to impose on you. Still, though I don't see how to help
it, I cannot but think that the requirements of fashion are becoming
needlessly extravagant, particularly in regard to the dress of women.
It seems to me, it is making the support of families so burdensome
that young men are discouraged from marriage. A young man, in a
moderately good business, might cheerfully undertake the world with a
wife who could make herself pretty and attractive for seventy-five
dollars a year, when he might sigh in vain for one who positively
could not get through, and be decent, on four hundred. Women, too, are
getting to be so attached to the trappings and accessories of life
that they cannot think of marriage without an amount of fortune which
few young men possess."
"You are talking in very low numbers about the dress of women," said
Miss Featherstone. "I do assure you that it is the easiest thing in
the world for a girl to make away with a thousand dollars a year, and
not have so much to show for it, either, as Marianne and Jenny."
"To be sure," said I. "Only establish certain formulas of expectation,
and it is the easiest thing in the world. For instance, in your
mother's day girls talked of a pair of gloves,--now they talk of a
pack; then it was a bonnet summer and winter,--now it is a bonnet
spring, summer, autumn, and winter, and hats like monthly roses,--a
new blossom every few weeks."
"And then," said my wife, "every device of the toilet is immediately
taken up and varied and improved on, so as to impose an almost monthly
necessity for novelty. The jackets of May are outshone by the
jackets of June; the buttons of June are antiquated in July; the
trimmings of July are _passees_ by September; side-combs, back-combs,
puffs, rats, and all sorts of such matters, are in a distracted race
of improvement; every article of feminine toilet is on the move
towards perfection. It seems to me that an infinity of money must be
spent in these trifles by those who make the least pretension to keep
in the fashion."
"Well, papa," said Jenny, "after all, it's just the way things always
have been since the world began. You know the Bible says, 'Can a maid
forget her ornaments?' It's clear she can't. You see, it's a law of
nature; and you remember all that long chapter in the Bible that we
had read in church last Sunday about the curls and veils and tinkling
ornaments and crimping-pins, and all that, of those wicked daughters
of Zion in old times. Women always have been too much given to dress,
and they always will be."
"The thing is," said Marianne, "how can any woman, I, for example,
know what is too much or too little? In mamma's day, it seems, a girl
could keep her place in society, by hard economy, and spend only fifty
dollars a year on her dress. Mamma found a hundred dollars ample. I
have more than that, and find myself quite straitened to keep myself
looking well. I don't want to live for dress, to give all my time and
thoughts to it; I don't wish to be extravagant: and yet I wish to be
lady-like--it annoys and makes me unhappy not to be fresh and neat and
nice, shabbiness and seediness are my aversion. I don't see where the
fault is. Can one individual resist the whole current of society? It
certainly is not strictly necessary for us girls to have half the
things we do. We might, I suppose, live without many of them, and, as
mamma says, look just as well, because girls did so before these
things were invented. Now I confess I flatter myself, generally, that
I am a pattern of good management and economy, because I get so much
less than other girls I associate with. I wish you could see Miss
Thorne's fall dresses that she showed me last year when she was
visiting here. She had six gowns, and no one of them could have cost
less than seventy or eighty dollars, and some of them must have been
even more expensive, and yet I don't doubt that this fall she will
feel that she must have just as many more. She runs through and wears
out these expensive things, with all their velvet and thread lace,
just as I wear my commonest ones; and at the end of the season they
are really gone,--spotted, stained, frayed, the lace all pulled to
pieces,--nothing left to save or make over. I feel as if Jenny and I
were patterns of economy when I see such things. I really don't know
what economy is. What is it?"
"There is the same difficulty in my housekeeping," said my wife. "I
think I am an economist. I mean to be one. All our expenses are on a
modest scale, and yet I can see much that really is not strictly
necessary; but if I compare myself with some of my neighbors, I feel
as if I were hardly respectable. There is no subject on which all the
world are censuring one another so much as this. Hardly any one but
thinks her neighbors extravagant in some one or more particulars, and
takes for granted that she herself is an economist."
"I'll venture to say," said I, "that there isn't a woman of my
acquaintance that does not think she is an economist."
"Papa is turned against us women, like all the rest of them," said
Jenny. "I wonder if it isn't just so with the men?"
"Yes," said Marianne, "it's the fashion to talk as if all the
extravagance of the country was perpetrated by women. For my part, I
think young men are just as extravagant. Look at the sums they spend
for cigars and meerschaums,--an expense which hasn't even the pretense
of usefulness in any way; it's a purely selfish, nonsensical
indulgence. When a girl spends money in making herself look pretty,
she contributes something to the agreeableness of society; but a man's
cigars and pipes are neither ornamental nor useful."
"Then look at their dress," said Jenny: "they are to the full as fussy
and particular about it as girls; they have as many fine, invisible
points of fashion, and their fashions change quite as often; and they
have just as many knick-knacks, with their studs and their sleeve
buttons and waistcoat buttons, their scarfs and scarf pins, their
watch chains and seals and seal rings, and nobody knows what. Then
they often waste and throw away more than women, because they are not
good judges of material, nor saving in what they buy, and have no
knowledge of how things should be cared for, altered, or mended. If
their cap is a little too tight, they cut the lining with a penknife,
or slit holes in a new shirt-collar because it does not exactly fit to
their mind. For my part, I think men are naturally twice as wasteful
as women. A pretty thing, to be sure, to have all the waste of the
country laid to us!"
"You are right, child," said I; "women are by nature, as compared with
men, the care-taking and saving part of creation,--the authors and
conservators of economy. As a general rule, man earns and woman saves
and applies. The wastefulness of woman is commonly the fault of man."
"I don't see into that," said Bob Stevens.
"In this way. Economy is the science of proportion. Whether a
particular purchase is extravagant depends mainly on the income it is
taken from. Suppose a woman has a hundred and fifty a year for her
dress, and gives fifty dollars for a bonnet, she gives a third of her
income,--it is a horrible extravagance; while for the woman whose
income is ten thousand it may be no extravagance at all. The poor
clergyman's wife, when she gives five dollars for a bonnet, may be
giving as much in proportion to her income as the woman who gives
fifty. Now the difficulty with the greater part of women is, that the
men, who make the money and hold it, give them no kind of standard by
which to measure their expenses. Most women and girls are in this
matter entirely at sea, without chart or compass. They don't know in
the least what they have to spend. Husbands and fathers often pride
themselves about not saying a word on business matters to their wives
and daughters. They don't wish them to understand them, or to inquire
into them, or to make remarks or suggestions concerning them. 'I want
you to have everything that is suitable and proper,' says Jones to his
wife, 'but don't be extravagant.'
"'But, my dear,' says Mrs. Jones, 'what is suitable and proper depends
very much on our means; if you could allow me any specific sum for
dress and housekeeping, I could tell better.'
"'Nonsense, Susan! I can't do that,--it's too much trouble. Get what
you need, and avoid foolish extravagances; that's all I ask.'
"By and by Mrs. Jones's bills are sent in, in an evil hour, when Jones
has heavy notes to meet, and then comes a domestic storm.
"'I shall just be ruined, madam, if that's the way you are going on. I
can't afford to dress you and the girls in the style you have set up:
look at this milliner's bill!'
"'I assure you,' says Mrs. Jones, 'we haven't got any more than the
Stebbinses, nor so much.'
"'Don't you know that the Stebbinses are worth five times as much as
ever I was?'
"No, Mrs. Jones did not know it: how should she, when her husband
makes it a rule never to speak of his business to her, and she has not
the remotest idea of his income?
"Thus multitudes of good, conscientious women and girls are
extravagant from pure ignorance. The male provider allows bills to be
run up in his name, and they have no earthly means of judging whether
they are spending too much or too little, except the semi-annual
hurricane which attends the coming in of these bills.
"The first essential in the practice of economy is a knowledge of
one's income, and the man who refuses to accord to his wife and
children this information has never any right to accuse them of
extravagance, because he himself deprives them of that standard of
comparison which is an indispensable requisite in economy. As early as
possible in the education of children, they should pass from that
state of irresponsible waiting to be provided for by parents, and be
trusted with the spending of some fixed allowance, that they may learn
prices and values, and have some notion of what money is actually
worth and what it will bring. The simple fact of the possession of a
fixed and definite income often suddenly transforms a giddy,
extravagant girl into a care-taking, prudent little woman. Her
allowance is her own; she begins to plan upon it,--to add, subtract,
multiply, divide, and do numberless sums in her little head. She no
longer buys everything she fancies; she deliberates, weighs, compares.
And now there is room for self-denial and generosity to come in. She
can do without this article; she can furbish up some older possession
to do duty a little longer, and give this money to some friend poorer
than she; and ten to one the girl whose bills last year were four or
five hundred finds herself bringing through this year creditably on a
hundred and fifty. To be sure, she goes without numerous things which
she used to have. From the standpoint of a fixed income she sees that
these are impossible, and no more wants them than the green cheese of
the moon. She learns to make her own taste and skill take the place of
expensive purchases. She refits her hats and bonnets, retrims her
dresses, and in a thousand busy, earnest, happy little ways sets
herself to make the most of her small income.
"So the woman who has her definite allowance for housekeeping finds at
once a hundred questions set at rest. Before it was not clear to her
why she should not 'go and do likewise' in relation to every purchase
made by her next neighbor. Now, there is a clear logic of proportion.
Certain things are evidently not to be thought of, though next
neighbors do have them; and we must resign ourselves to find some
other way of living."
"My dear," said my wife, "I think there is a peculiar temptation in a
life organized as ours is in America. There are here no settled
classes, with similar ratios of income. Mixed together in the same
society, going to the same parties, and blended in daily neighborly
intercourse, are families of the most opposite extremes in point of
fortune. In England there is a very well understood expression, that
people should not dress or live above their station; in America none
will admit that they have any particular station, or that they can
live above it. The principle of democratic equality unites in society
people of the most diverse positions and means.
"Here, for instance, is a family like Dr. Selden's: an old and highly
respected one, with an income of only two or three thousand; yet they
are people universally sought for in society, and mingle in all the
intercourse of life with merchant millionaires whose incomes are from
ten to thirty thousand. Their sons and daughters go to the same
schools, the same parties, and are thus constantly meeting upon terms
of social equality.
"Now it seems to me that our danger does not lie in the great and
evident expenses of our richer friends. We do not expect to have
pineries, graperies, equipages, horses, diamonds,--we say openly and
of course that we do not. Still, our expenses are constantly increased
by the proximity of these things, unless we understand ourselves
better than most people do. We don't, of course, expect to get a
fifteen-hundred-dollar Cashmere, like Mrs. So-and-so, but we begin to
look at hundred-dollar shawls and nibble about the hook. We don't
expect sets of diamonds, but a diamond ring, a pair of solitaire
diamond ear-rings, begin to be speculated about among the young people
as among possibilities. We don't expect to carpet our house with
Axminster and hang our windows with damask, but at least we must have
Brussels and brocatelle,--it _would not do_ not to. And so we go on
getting hundreds of things that we don't need, that have no real value
except that they soothe our self-love; and for these inferior articles
we pay a higher proportion of our income than our rich neighbor does
for his better ones. Nothing is uglier than low-priced Cashmere
shawls; and yet a young man just entering business will spend an
eighth of a year's income to put one on his wife, and when he has put
it there it only serves as a constant source of disquiet, for, now
that the door is opened and Cashmere shawls are possible, she is
consumed with envy at the superior ones constantly sported around her.
So, also, with point-lace, velvet dresses, and hundreds of things of
that sort, which belong to a certain rate of income, and are absurd
below it."
"And yet, mamma, I heard Aunt Easygo say that velvet, point-lace, and
Cashmere were the cheapest finery that could be bought, because they
lasted a lifetime."
"Aunt Easygo speaks from an income of ten thousand a year: they may be
cheap for her rate of living; but for us, for example, by no magic of
numbers can it be made to appear that it is cheaper to have the
greatest bargain in the world in Cashmere, lace, and diamonds than not
to have them at all. I never had a diamond, never wore a piece of
point-lace, never had a velvet dress, and have been perfectly happy,
and just as much respected as if I had. Who ever thought of objecting
to me for not having them? Nobody, that I ever heard."
"Certainly not, mamma," said Marianne.
"The thing I have always said to you girls is, that you were not to
expect to live like richer people, not to begin to try, not to think
or inquire about certain rates of expenditure, or take the first
step in certain directions. We have moved on all our life after a
very antiquated and old-fashioned mode. We have had our little,
old-fashioned house, our little old-fashioned ways."
"Except the parlor carpet, and what came of it, my dear," said I
mischievously.
"Yes, except the parlor carpet," said my wife, with a conscious
twinkle, "and the things that came of it; there was a concession
there, but one can't be wise always."
"_We_ talked mamma into that," said Jenny.
"But one thing is certain," said my wife,--"that, though I have had an
antiquated, plain house, and plain furniture, and plain dress, and not
the beginning of a thing such as many of my neighbors have possessed,
I have spent more money than many of them for real comforts. While I
had young children, I kept more and better servants than many women
who wore Cashmere and diamonds. I thought it better to pay extra wages
to a really good, trusty woman who lived with me from year to year,
and relieved me of some of my heaviest family cares, than to have ever
so much lace locked away in my drawers. We always were able to go into
the country to spend our summers, and to keep a good family horse and
carriage for daily driving,--by which means we afforded, as a family,
very poor patronage to the medical profession. Then we built our
house, and, while we left out a great many expensive commonplaces
that other people think they must have, we put in a profusion of
bathing accommodations such as very few people think of having. There
never was a time when we did not feel able to afford to do what was
necessary to preserve or to restore health; and for this I always drew
on the surplus fund laid up by my very unfashionable housekeeping and
dressing."
"Your mother has had," said I, "what is the great want in America,
perfect independence of mind to go her own way without regard to the
way others go. I think there is, for some reason, more false shame
among Americans about economy than among Europeans. 'I cannot afford
it' is more seldom heard among us. A young man beginning life, whose
income may be from five to eight hundred a year, thinks it elegant and
gallant to affect a careless air about money, especially among
ladies,--to hand it out freely, and put back his change without
counting it,--to wear a watch chain and studs and shirt-fronts like
those of some young millionaire. None but the most expensive tailors,
shoemakers, and hatters will do for him; and then he grumbles at the
dearness of living, and declares that he cannot get along on his
salary. The same is true of young girls, and of married men and women,
too,--the whole of them are ashamed of economy. The cares that wear
out life and health in many households are of a nature that cannot be
cast on God, or met by any promise from the Bible: it is not care for
'food convenient,' or for comfortable raiment, but care to keep up
false appearances, and to stretch a narrow income over the space that
can be covered only by a wider one.
"The poor widow in her narrow lodgings, with her monthly rent staring
her hourly in the face, and her bread and meat and candles and meal
all to be paid for on delivery or not obtained at all, may find
comfort in the good old Book, reading of that other widow whose
wasting measure of oil and last failing handful of meal were of such
account before her Father in heaven that a prophet was sent to recruit
them; and when customers do not pay, or wages are cut down, she can
enter into her chamber, and, when she hath shut her door, present to
her Father in heaven His sure promise that with the fowls of the air
she shall be fed and with the lilies of the field she shall be
clothed: but what promises are there for her who is racking her brains
on the ways and means to provide as sumptuous an entertainment of
oysters and champagne at her next party as her richer neighbor, or to
compass that great bargain which shall give her a point-lace set
almost as handsome as that of Mrs. Croesus, who has ten times her
income?"
"But, papa," said Marianne, with a twinge of that exacting sensitiveness
by which the child is characterized, "I think I am an economist,
thanks to you and mamma, so far as knowing just what my income is,
and keeping within it; but that does not satisfy me, and it seems that
isn't all of economy; the question that haunts me is, Might I not make
my little all do more and better than I do?"
"There," said I, "you have hit the broader and deeper signification of
economy, which is, in fact, the science of _comparative values_. In
its highest sense, economy is a just judgment of the comparative value
of things,--money only the means of enabling one to express that
value. This is the reason why the whole matter is so full of
difficulty,--why every one criticises his neighbor in this regard.
Human beings are so various, the necessities of each are so different,
they are made comfortable or uncomfortable by such opposite means,
that the spending of other people's incomes must of necessity often
look unwise from our standpoint. For this reason multitudes of people
who cannot be accused of exceeding their incomes often seem to others
to be spending them foolishly and extravagantly."
"But is there no standard of value?" said Marianne.
"There are certain things upon which there is a pretty general
agreement, verbally, at least, among mankind. For instance, it is
generally agreed that _health_ is an indispensable good,--that money
is well spent that secures it, and worse than ill spent that ruins
it.
"With this standard in mind, how much money is wasted even by people
who do not exceed their income! Here a man builds a house, and pays,
in the first place, ten thousand more than he need, for a location in
a fashionable part of the city, though the air will be closer and the
chances of health less; he spends three or four thousand more on a
stone front, on marble mantels imported from Italy, on plate-glass
windows, plated hinges, and a thousand nice points of finish, and has
perhaps but one bath-room for a whole household, and that so connected
with his own apartment that nobody but himself and his wife can use
it.
"Another man buys a lot in an open, airy situation, which fashion has
not made expensive, and builds without a stone front, marble mantels,
or plate-glass windows, but has a perfect system of ventilation
through his house, and bathing-rooms in every story, so that the
children and guests may all, without inconvenience, enjoy the luxury
of abundant water.
"The first spends for fashion and show, the second for health and
comfort.
"Here is a man that will buy his wife a diamond bracelet and a lace
shawl, and take her yearly to Washington to show off her beauty in
ball dresses, who yet will not let her pay wages which will command
any but the poorest and most inefficient domestic service. The woman
is worn out, her life made a desert by exhaustion consequent on a
futile attempt to keep up a showy establishment with only half the
hands needed for the purpose. Another family will give brilliant
parties, have a gay season every year at the first hotels at Newport,
and not be able to afford the wife a fire in her chamber in
midwinter, or the servants enough food to keep them from constantly
deserting. The damp, mouldy, dingy cellar-kitchen, the cold, windy,
desolate attic, devoid of any comfort, where the domestics are doomed
to pass their whole time, are witnesses to what such families consider
economy. Economy in the view of some is undisguised slipshod
slovenliness in the home circle for the sake of fine clothes to be
shown abroad; it is undisguised hard selfishness to servants and
dependants, counting their every approach to comfort a needless
waste,--grudging the Roman Catholic cook her cup of tea at dinner on
Friday, when she must not eat meat,--and murmuring that a cracked,
second-hand looking-glass must be got for the servants' room: what
business have they to want to know how they look?
"Some families will employ the cheapest physician, without regard to
his ability to kill or cure; some will treat diseases in their
incipiency with quack medicines, bought cheap, hoping thereby to fend
off the doctor's bill. Some women seem to be pursued by an evil demon
of economy, which, like an _ignis fatuus_ in a bog, delights
constantly to tumble them over into the mire of expense. They are
dismayed at the quantity of sugar in the recipe for preserves, leave
out a quarter, and the whole ferments and is spoiled. They cannot by
any means be induced at any one time to buy enough silk to make a
dress, and the dress finally, after many convulsions and alterations,
must be thrown by altogether as too scanty. They get poor needles,
poor thread, poor sugar, poor raisins, poor tea, poor coal. One
wonders, in looking at their blackened, smouldering grates in a
freezing day, what the fire is there at all for,--it certainly warms
nobody. The only thing they seem likely to be lavish in is funeral
expenses, which come in the wake of leaky shoes and imperfect
clothing. These funeral expenses at last swallow all, since nobody can
dispute an undertaker's bill. One pities these joyless beings.
Economy, instead of a rational act of the judgment, is a morbid
monomania, eating the pleasure out of life, and haunting them to the
grave.
"Some people's ideas of economy seem to run simply in the line of
eating. Their flour is of an extra brand, their meat the first cut;
the delicacies of every season, in their dearest stages, come home to
their table with an apologetic smile,--'It was scandalously dear, my
love, but I thought we must just treat ourselves.' And yet these
people cannot afford to buy books, and pictures they regard as an
unthought-of extravagance. Trudging home with fifty dollars' worth of
delicacies on his arm, Smith meets Jones, who is exulting with a bag
of crackers under one arm and a choice little bit of an oil painting
under the other, which he thinks a bargain at fifty dollars. '_I_
can't afford to buy pictures,' Smith says to his spouse, 'and I don't
know how Jones and his wife manage.' Jones and his wife will live on
bread and milk for a month, and she will turn her best gown the third
time, but they will have their picture, and they are happy. Jones's
picture remains, and Smith's fifty dollars' worth of oysters and
canned fruit to-morrow will be gone forever. Of all modes of spending
money, the swallowing of expensive dainties brings the least return.
There is one step lower than this,--the consuming of luxuries that are
injurious to the health. If all the money spent on tobacco and liquors
could be spent in books and pictures, I predict that nobody's health
would be a whit less sound, and houses would be vastly more
attractive. There is enough money spent in smoking, drinking, and
over-eating to give every family in the community a good library, to
hang everybody's parlor walls with lovely pictures, to set up in every
house a conservatory which should bloom all winter with choice
flowers, to furnish every dwelling with ample bathing and warming
accommodations, even down to the dwellings of the poor; and in the
millennium I believe this is the way things are to be.
"In these times of peril and suffering, if the inquiry arises, How
shall there be retrenchment? I answer, First and foremost, retrench
things needless, doubtful, and positively hurtful, as rum, tobacco,
and all the meerschaums of divers colors that do accompany the same.
Second, retrench all eating not necessary to health and comfort. A
French family would live in luxury on the leavings that are constantly
coming from the tables of those who call themselves in middling
circumstances. There are superstitions of the table that ought to be
broken through. Why must you always have cake in your closet? why need
you feel undone to entertain a guest with no cake on your tea-table?
Do without it a year, and ask yourselves if you or your children, or
any one else, have suffered materially in consequence.
"Why is it imperative that you should have two or three courses at
every meal? Try the experiment of having but one, and that a very good
one, and see if any great amount of suffering ensues. Why must social
intercourse so largely consist in eating? In Paris there is a very
pretty custom. Each family has one evening in the week when it stays
at home and receives friends. Tea, with a little bread and butter and
cake, served in the most informal way, is the only refreshment. The
rooms are full, busy, bright,--everything as easy and joyous as if a
monstrous supper, with piles of jelly and mountains of cake, were
waiting to give the company a nightmare at the close.
"Said a lady, pointing to a gentleman and his wife in a social circle
of this kind, 'I ought to know them well,--I have seen them every week
for twenty years.' It is certainly pleasant and confirmative of social
enjoyment for friends to eat together; but a little enjoyed in this
way answers the purpose as well as a great deal, and better, too."
"Well, papa," said Marianne, "in the matter of dress, now,--how much
ought one to spend just to look as others do?"
"I will tell you what I saw the other night, girls, in the parlor of
one of our hotels. Two middle-aged Quaker ladies came gliding in, with
calm, cheerful faces, and lustrous dove-colored silks. By their
conversation I found that they belonged to that class of women among
the Friends who devote themselves to traveling on missions of
benevolence. They had just completed a tour of all the hospitals for
wounded soldiers in the country, where they had been carrying
comforts, arranging, advising, and soothing by their cheerful, gentle
presence. They were now engaged on another mission, to the lost and
erring of their own sex; night after night, guarded by a policeman,
they had ventured after midnight into the dance-houses where girls are
being led to ruin, and with gentle words of tender, motherly counsel
sought to win them from their fatal ways,--telling them where they
might go the next day to find friends who would open to them an asylum
and aid them to seek a better life.
"As I looked upon these women, dressed with such modest purity, I
began secretly to think that the Apostle was not wrong when he spoke
of women adorning themselves with the _ornament_ of a meek and quiet
spirit; for the habitual gentleness of their expression, the calmness
and purity of the lines in their faces, the delicacy and simplicity of
their apparel, seemed of themselves a rare and peculiar beauty. I
could not help thinking that fashionable bonnets, flowing lace
sleeves, and dresses elaborately trimmed could not have improved even
their outward appearance. Doubtless their simple wardrobe needed but a
small trunk in traveling from place to place, and hindered but little
their prayers and ministrations.
"Now, it is true, all women are not called to such a life as this;
but might not all women take a leaf at least from their book? I submit
the inquiry humbly. It seems to me that there are many who go monthly
to the sacrament, and receive it with sincere devotion, and who give
thanks each time sincerely that they are thus made 'members
incorporate in the mystical body of Christ,' who have never thought of
this membership as meaning that they should share Christ's sacrifices
for lost souls, or abridge themselves of one ornament or encounter one
inconvenience for the sake of those wandering sheep for whom he died.
Certainly there is a higher economy which we need to learn,--that
which makes all things subservient to the spiritual and immortal, and
that not merely to the good of our own souls and those of our family,
but of all who are knit with us in the great bonds of human
brotherhood.
"There have been from time to time, among well-meaning Christian
people, retrenchment societies on high moral grounds, which have
failed for want of knowledge how to manage the complicated question of
necessaries and luxuries. These words have a signification in the case
of different people as varied as the varieties of human habit and
constitution. It is a department impossible to be bound by external
rules, but none the less should every high-minded Christian soul in
this matter have a law unto itself. It may safely be laid down as a
general rule, that no income, however large or however small, should
be unblessed by the divine touch of self-sacrifice. Something for the
poor, the sorrowing, the hungry, the tempted, and the weak should be
taken from _what is our own_ at the expense of some personal
sacrifice, or we suffer more morally than the brother from whom we
withdraw it. Even the Lord of all, when dwelling among men, out of
that slender private purse which he accepted for his little family of
chosen ones, had ever something reserved to give to the poor. It is
easy to say, 'It is but a drop in the bucket. I cannot remove the
great mass of misery in the world. What little I could save or give
does nothing.' It does this, if no more,--it prevents one soul, and
that soul your own, from drying and hardening into utter selfishness
and insensibility; it enables you to say, I have done something; taken
one atom from the great heap of sins and miseries and placed it on the
side of good.
"The Sisters of Charity and the Friends, each with their different
costume of plainness and self-denial, and other noble-hearted women of
no particular outward order, but kindred in spirit, have shown to
womanhood, on the battlefield and in the hospital, a more excellent
way,--a beauty and nobility before which all the common graces and
ornaments of the sex fade, appear like dim candles by the pure,
eternal stars."