“AN author,” says Fielding, in his introduction to _Tom Jones_, “ought to
consider himself, not as the gentleman who gives a private or
eleemosynary treat, but rather as one who keeps a public ordinary, to
which all persons are welcome for their money. Men who pay for what they
eat, will insist on gratifying their palates, however nice and whimsical
these may prove; and if everything is not agreeable to their taste, will
challenge a right to censure, to abuse, and to damn their dinner without
control.
“To prevent, therefore, giving offence to their customers by any such
disappointment, it hath been usual with the honest and well-meaning host
to provide a bill of fare, which all persons may peruse at their first
entrance into the house; and having thence acquainted themselves with the
entertainment which they may expect, may either stay and regale with what
is provided for them, or may depart to some other ordinary better
accommodated to their taste.”
In the present instance, the host or author, in opening his new
establishment, provided no bill of fare. Sensible of the difficulties of
such an undertaking in its infancy, he preferred that it should make its
own way, silently and gradually, or make no way at all. It _has_ made
its way, and is doing such a thriving business that nothing remains for
him but to add, in the words of the good old civic ceremony, now that one
dish has been discussed and finished, and another smokes upon the board,
that he drinks to his guests in a loving-cup, and bids them a hearty
welcome.
DEVONSHIRE TERRACE, LONDON, _March_, 1841.