REPAIRING, RECASING, RECOVERING, ETC.
Practically all repairs to a book short of rebinding should be made in
the library, since the work requires little space and no machinery, and
the books may speedily be replaced on the shelves for general use. Large
or medium sized libraries can well afford to hire one or more girls as
menders, while the small library must utilize the spare time of regular
assistants.
When books are sent to the binding department they should be sorted into
the following groups:
Books to be (_a_) rebound, (_b_) recased, (_c_) recovered, (_d_) mended,
(_e_) discarded; to have (_f_) new sides, (_g_) new labels, (_h_) new
book cards or pockets.
When menders are employed all except those in the first group may be
cared for in the library.
In sorting the books the question of whether to rebind or repair at the
library must be decided for all books, except those in the discarded
class and those which need new records (tags, pockets, book cards,
etc.). The decision is not always an easy one to make. The kind of
library in question, whether public, college, subscription, etc., will
influence the decision, as well as the actual condition of the book. A
few general rules about mending may help in making decisions.
1. If the book has never been rebound and in all probability must go to
the bindery in a few months' time, send to the bindery at once. Mending
not only adds nothing to the life of this book, but may easily shorten
it.
2. Mend books which have been rebound once but which it would not pay to
rebind again. Judicious mending of such books may keep them in service
for a long time, but there comes a day when the use gained does not pay
for the time put upon them.
3. Mend books which have nearly outlived their usefulness or which are
to be withdrawn absolutely when worn out. The question need be decided
only when the book is fairly clean, for if very soiled it should be
withdrawn at once.
4. Mend books which must be on the library shelves, but which are seldom
used.
5. Mend books printed on heavily loaded papers which will not pay to
rebind. There are, unfortunately, many of them.
6. Mending cannot be done if the sewing is completely broken, though it
is sometimes possible to insert signatures which are loose.
7. Books with broken corners must be rebound.
8. Recase books which have sewing intact and covers in good condition,
if they will be used comparatively seldom.
9. Recover books which have worn covers but firm sewing.
MENDING MATERIALS
ADHESIVES
_Paste._ Home-made pastes are cheapest. While there are various recipes
for paste, either of the following will give satisfaction:
(1)
Wheat flour, 8 oz.
Powdered alum, 1/4 oz.
Glycerine, 1-1/2 oz.
Oil wintergreen, 1 dram.
Water, 1-1/2 pts.
Dissolve the alum in water and mix gradually with the flour into a
smooth, thin paste; cook in a double boiler until smooth and clear; take
from the fire and add the glycerine and oil of wintergreen. This
quantity will make about one quart. If after standing a day a watery
fluid collects, stir it into the paste. Keep this paste covered.
(2)
1/4 pound of flour (1 cup).
1 teaspoonful of alum, dissolved.
1 generous fourth teaspoonful of oil of clove.
4 cups of boiling water.
Mix the flour well with a little cold water, beating until perfectly
smooth. Add the alum dissolved in a little cold water. Pour on two cups
of the boiling water, strain through a wire sieve. Add the remainder of
the boiling water and cook, stirring constantly until partially clear.
Add the oil of clove and put into a clean, covered earthen jar. The
paste thickens as it cools. Take out small quantities for use. The
materials for this paste cost less than 2 cents for a hundred books.
To all pastes it is best to add a spoonful of carbolic acid or
formaldehyde to prevent spoiling. A small quantity of corrosive
sublimate will make paste unattractive to bugs.
Although home-made pastes are cheapest, they are a bother to make and
the saving of expense over commercial pastes is not worth while except
in the very small library. Besides paste in bulk which can be obtained
from the local binder there are many kinds of commercial paste. Some may
be bought in powders; others, designed primarily for mounting
photographs, in glass jars; still others in cans ready to use. The
powders are cheap, keep indefinitely, but when needed must be mixed with
water, and as a rule are not very satisfactory. Higgins' and other
photo-mounting pastes are expensive and dry too quickly, but keep
indefinitely. In the long run the most satisfactory pastes are those in
tin cans with tight lids; these are ready to use, do not dry up and the
preservative which they contain keeps them indefinitely. The Arabol
Manufacturing Company, 100 William Street, New York, makes several
varieties. Their "Sphinx" paste, which gives excellent satisfaction, can
be bought in six one-gallon can lots at 75 cents a gallon, f. o. b., and
in larger quantities at slightly reduced rates. Great care should be
used to avoid having the paste so thin that it makes the paper stretch.
Although paste is a necessity in every library, there is a tendency to
use too much of it, and to use it when it is not necessary. Ordinarily
it will injure the book less than other adhesives, but it should be used
sparingly on books that must be rebound. When applied to the backs of
loose signatures they become brittle; then when the book goes to the
bindery a much larger amount must be cut from the back than would
otherwise be the case.
If paste is to be applied to part of the paper only, the easiest way is
to lay the paper on a board, place another piece of paper over it,
leaving exposed the surface to which paste is to be applied. It can be
spread more evenly with the finger, faster with a soft, long-handled
brush. The larger libraries will find a pasting-machine a great
time-saver. Book labels, book pockets, new end papers to freshen soiled
books--anything which needs to have the entire surface covered--is
pasted on the machine in one-tenth the time required by hand.
_Glue._ For ordinary mending, glue should never be used. (See Materials,
p. 82.) Flexible glue, however, is a necessity for recasing and
recovering books. It keeps indefinitely, can be used easily by those
who acquire the knack of using it, and it sticks everlastingly.
_Mucilage._ Mucilage has no real place in a library. If paste is not the
suitable material to use, substitute flexible glue, never mucilage.
CLOTH
_Cheesecloth._ This well-known cloth is used when pressing down paper or
book labels after they have been pasted and applied, and for quickly
cleaning the hands of superfluous paste or glue. It should be cut in
pieces of convenient size and not used many times before being
discarded.
_Jaconet._ A thin, strong muslin will be needed for guarding sections
and occasionally for forming joints. Jaconet is the best and may be
obtained from a few library binders.
_Canton flannel._ A medium grade of this cloth is used for back-lining.
_Book cloth._ If recovering or re-siding is done the library must have a
supply of book cloths in the shades preferred. For re-siding, any cloth
in grade 1 (see page 75) is sufficiently good. For recovering cloths in
the grade which meets the requirements of the Bureau of Standards are
none too good. If much recovering is done it is best to buy the cloth by
the piece.
_Crepeline._ This very thin cotton cloth, also called mousseline,
through which print is easily read, is sometimes pasted over the entire
surface of pages which receive very hard usage, and which would
otherwise be literally thumbed to pieces long before the rest of the
book.
_Specially prepared cloth._ The Gaylord Bros., of Syracuse, and the
Multum in Parvo Binder Co., of Philadelphia, manufacture hinges made of
cloth. While these are often useful they cannot be used under any and
all conditions, as one might be led to believe from the claims of the
manufacturers.
PAPERS
_Onion skin._ Onion skin is a very thin, tough paper, used for mending
torn pages, illustrations, etc., where print must show through. While it
may be obtained gummed on one side, very little is gained, for it is
nearly as easy to paste the ungummed onion skin as to moisten the
gummed. For tears which do not run into the text; a thin, strong bond
paper will be satisfactory.
_Kraft or manila paper._ A 30x40 60-pound kraft paper makes good end
papers in recasing and recovering. A 70-pound manila paper may be used
instead of kraft, if desired.
_Red rope manila._ This is a very strong, tough fibred cardboard which
may sometimes be used as covers for books that it will scarcely pay to
put into stouter covers. It may be obtained in several weights, the
lighter weights being sufficiently strong for library use.
THREAD
Even if no resewing is done, thread is necessary for making various
repairs. The best are Hayes' linen thread No. 25, and Barbour's No. 40.
AMMONIA
This is necessary for breaking down surfaces of highly glazed cloths so
that labels will stick.
SHELLAC
After labels or the backs of books have been lettered in white or black
ink they should have a covering of shellac. A supply of the best white
shellac may be obtained from the local paint dealer.
Occasional use is found for various other materials, such as powdered
pumice stone, sponge rubber, India rubber erasers and art gum.
TOOLS
FOLDERS
Several binder's bone folders, costing fifteen cents each, should be
kept in the binding department.
KNIVES
A long knife, broad at the point, thin-bladed but dull, is needed for
cutting paper after it is folded and for various other uses. A sharp,
pointed knife is needed for removing books from the covers, or old
labels from the back.
SCISSORS
Long, thin-bladed, best quality.
NEEDLES
Regular book-sewing needles.
HAMMER
A broad-faced hammer may be required for beating down the backs of
sections, or the entire book when it is difficult to replace it in its
old cover.
PRESS
Books wet with paste or glue must be pressed. An old-fashioned
letter-press which screws down by hand will answer all purposes in a
small library. As they are now out-of-date, second-hand ones can be
purchased for a small sum. There are one or two inexpensive small
presses which are not so heavy as the letter-press, but which hold a
larger number of books and are fairly satisfactory. The most
satisfactory press is a stationary one which holds a number of books and
which will exert great pressure. On account of lack of space and the
cost it is inadvisable to use this in a mending room, and makeshifts are
generally necessary.
PRESS-BOARD
A few press-boards with projections which will fit into the joints of
books may be necessary. They may be obtained from any dealer in binders'
supplies.
SEWING BENCH
If any resewing is done a sewing bench is a necessity. Ordinarily books
needing resewing should be sent to the bindery.
GLUE-POT
A double-boiler glue-pot is a necessity if recovering or recasing is to
be done. It should be kept clean.
BRUSHES
A long-handled, small-sized brush with soft bristles will be used for
pasting, while glue will require a large, round brush such as is
commonly used in binderies.
PASTING MACHINE
A good pasting machine will cost about ten dollars, but it is a great
time saver. There are several on the market. In the Wilmington Library
the "Universal" is used and gives satisfaction in all cases when a
machine can be used.
CUTTING-BOARD
A small-sized cutting-board, such as is used by photographers, is useful
in the mending room as well as in other parts of the library.
CLEANING
A part of the duty of the mending department is to remove such dirt or
stains as can readily be removed without injury to the books.
PAGES
Various materials may be used for cleaning books which show soiled pages
here and there, but which are in the main fairly clean. A red rubber or
a sponge rubber is much better than an India rubber eraser. The latter
should never be used unless the paper is excellent in quality. Bread
crumbs rolled in a ball or powdered pumice stone put on with a dry cloth
will often give good results. If the book is much soiled, or has mud
stains, it may be advisable to use ivory soap and water with a few drops
of ammonia, applied with a piece of cheesecloth well wrung out.
If the paper is of good quality it may be washed with Javelle water, a
preparation used in French laundries. This may be made by the following
recipe:
To one pound of chloride of lime add four and a half pints of water, and
put in a jar with tight cover. In a separate vessel, dissolve 20 oz. of
ordinary washing soda in four and a half pints of boiling water, and
immediately pour it into the first mixture. When cold add enough water
to make eleven pints in all. Strain through muslin, settle, and pour off
the clear solution. After using it care must be taken to rinse the paper
thoroughly with water, as it tends to rot paper.
In the cleaning of pages care should be taken not to erase any marks
made by the cataloging or accession departments. Rubbing must be done
slowly and the pages held flat to prevent tearing. Rub from the inside
outward. All traces of pumice stone, rubber, etc., should be carefully
removed. If water and soap have been used, it may be necessary to put a
pressing tin under the leaf, placing blotting paper on each side.
Fox marks may be removed by immersing the leaves in a weak solution of
chlorine water and then transferring to a hot bath of very weak
hydrochloric acid.
To remove creases from leaves accidentally folded, place the leaves
between moistened blotters enclosed between dry blotters and press. This
can be repeated until the crease is entirely removed. Sometimes creases
may be ironed out with a hot iron.
Ink stains can be removed by any one of the standard eradicators (oxalic
acid followed by chloride of lime). Stains from pad ink used for dating
stamps can be removed with benzine.
The edges of leaves on very soiled books may be sandpapered. In this
case the book should be held very firm, if possible in a vise.
To Prevent Mildew or Mold
Occasionally books are accidentally soaked with water. In many a fire
more damage is done by water than by fire. In such cases it may be a
waste of time and money to reclaim ordinary books which can easily be
replaced. It is a different matter when it comes to rare books and
especially to manuscripts which cannot be replaced. Mr. J. I. Wyer, Jr.,
director of the New York State Library, in his annual report for 1911
describes as follows the method used in that library after the
disastrous fire of that year.
The first step was to remove all covers. Each volume was then taken
apart leaf by leaf, and each sheet was laid between print paper for
drying. After twenty-four hours every leaf was again handled and
placed between heavy blotting paper; after twenty-four hours here,
each leaf was again removed to a second blotting paper. At all of
these stages pressure was applied to facilitate the drying and keep
the documents from wrinkling.... When each leaf had thus passed
through these three drying processes, those belonging to the same
volume were collected and carefully tied up in boxes or separate
packages to wait until all the manuscripts were thus treated....
When all were dried, the manuscripts were arranged in volumes....
The rarest pieces will in time be mended, nearly all will be
covered with crepeline, all will be mounted on fresh paper and
carefully bound into new volumes.
COVERS
Covers may be cleaned by the same materials as those used on pages, but
the best method is to wash them with soap and water. For this reason the
use of a washable cloth for covers, such as keratol, durabline, or
fabrikoid, is an advantage. Miss Margaret Brown, in her pamphlet on
mending, Library handbook No. 6, advises the use of a wash as follows:
"Two parts good vinegar and one part water. Apply with a clean cloth and
rub hard until dirt is removed, then place upright to dry. This should
not be used on leather."
Grease spots may be removed from both leather and cloth by covering with
a blotter and ironing with a hot iron. The same method will partially
remove paint or varnish.
For a great variety of cleansing receipts see Coutts and Stephen's
"Manual of library bookbinding," Chapter X.
Covers that have warped must be dampened and put under pressure.
Shellacking of covers has been advocated by some librarians, but it is
doubtful if it pays. It may be used in the interests of cleanliness on
books bound in light colored cloth and on books in towns where the
atmosphere is very smoky. It is a process which takes some time since
two coats of shellac must be applied, and it does not increase the wear
of the cloth to any great extent. As a regular part of preparing the
book for use it takes more time and material than it is worth.
Sometimes a book becomes wonderfully rejuvenated simply by having its
cover and edges cleaned and a new pocket pasted in the back.
MENDING
It is very desirable that mending should not be done by inexperienced
assistants, for an uninstructed beginner may do as much harm as good.
TORN PAGES
Torn pages may be mended in any one of the following ways:
1. If the tear does not affect the printing, cut a strip of thin, tough
bond paper one-half inch wide, a little longer than the tear to be
covered, put through pasting-machine and cover the tear, trimming the
overhang even with the page.
2. If the page is torn into the text, and the book is not valuable
commercially, use ungummed onion skin about one-half inch wide and apply
as above. If onion skin is not available a very thin, tough bond paper
will do very well. Use a thin coating of paste, first putting a piece of
white paper under the page to absorb extra paste.
3. If torn in the text and it is desirable to make as good a job as
possible, use the following method:
Rub a very little paste on the torn edges, and place them together. Then
take a rather large piece of ordinary tissue paper and rub it gently
along the tear so that the tissue paper will adhere to the torn edges.
Put under the press; when dry the superfluous tissue paper should be
torn off, taking care to pull always toward the tear and from both sides
at the same time. The delicate fibre of the tissue paper acts as an
adhesive in such a way that it is almost impossible to discern how the
mending was done.
4. If the margin of the leaf of a valuable book is torn in several
places, take two sheets of paper the size of the leaf, cut out from the
middle of each a piece a little larger than the letter-press of the
book; trim the torn leaf so that it remains somewhat larger than the
space cut out of the blank leaves; place it between these two leaves and
paste down, thus forming new margins.
Books that have torn leaves mended may be put into the press, but it is
not strictly necessary. When very much of this mending is done pressing
is impossible unless a standing press is at hand.
A few books such as Granger's Index and some of the Poole's Index
volumes should have the first few pages entirely reinforced with cloth.
The best cloth for this purpose is crepeline, through which the text can
be easily read. When applying it put a thin layer of paste on the leaf
and then put on the cloth. The book should then be pressed, first
protecting adjoining pages with paper.
LOOSE LEAVES
Loose leaves may be inserted in several ways:
1. Lay a piece of white paper over the leaf, allowing one-eighth of an
inch of back margin of the leaf to project. Paste this exposed surface
and attach it to the adjoining leaf in the book, pressing down firmly.
This can be done only when adjoining leaves are firm.
2. Sometimes the leaf when inserted will extend beyond the fore edge of
the book. Trimming of either back margin or fore edge is inadvisable. It
is possible to turn over about one-eighth of an inch of back margin,
using some kind of straight edge for this purpose. Apply paste to turned
over part and press the fold well down into the book. This will give
more freedom to the leaf than if one-eighth of an inch has been cut off
and another eighth of an inch pasted.
3. Fold strips of thin bond paper cut with the grain, three-fourths of
an inch in width, through the center. Paste the outside. Attach the
loose leaf to one side and attach the other side to the adjoining leaf
in the book. It will be necessary to work quickly because the paper
strips when wet will cause a wrinkling of the leaf. This method can be
used only if adjoining leaf is firm, but can never be employed with
overcasting.
4. If necessary to use as little paste as possible, apply paste to a
piece of common soft string by drawing it over a board covered with
paste. Then draw the string through the book at the back. The leaf may
then be inserted.
LOOSE SIGNATURES
Ordinarily when one signature becomes loose others speedily follow, and
the book must be sent to the bindery unless it is withdrawn absolutely.
Sometimes, however, one section will become loose when the rest of the
book is firm and solid, sometimes also the use a book will receive does
not warrant binding. In such cases, if the book has a loose back, open
the section in the middle and place it in its proper place in the book.
Thread a darning-needle with Hayes' No. 25 thread (or Barbour No. 40),
pass the needle through the hole at top of the section (the kettlestitch
hole) in such a way as to bring it out at the top of the book between
the book and the loose back. Draw thread through, allowing a few inches
to remain inside the section. Drop needle through the loose back, insert
it from the back through the kettlestitch hole at tail of the book. The
thread can then be tied to the thread projecting at the upper
kettlestitch hole. This is a makeshift, but may answer if the book is
not to receive hard usage. If the back of the signature is badly worn,
mend it by guarding with jaconet on the outside, or by pasting a strip
of bond paper down through the center of the fold.
_Tight Backs_
For tight backs cut a guard of firm, thin cloth, such as cambric or
jaconet, about three-fourths of an inch wide and as long as the book.
Sew the section to the middle of the guard, and paste the guard to the
book, one-half to each of the adjoining leaves. Press this guard well
back into the book. This can be done only when the adjoining pages are
securely held.
LOOSE JOINTS
It frequently happens that a book in the original publisher's cover
becomes loose at the joint, because the super used as back-lining cannot
stand the strain put upon it. Ordinarily, a book defective in this
manner should be bound at once; but if it is deemed best to attempt
mending it, a strip of jaconet should be cut 1-1/4 inches wide and the
length of the book. Paste one-half of this to the cover and the other to
the adjoining fly-leaf, thus transferring the strain from the super to
the fly-leaf. This method can also be used to mend a break in the middle
of a book, but should never be used if the book must eventually be
rebound.
Another method of mending a loose joint is to remove the book entirely
from the cover, sew on new end papers guarded with muslin, and cover the
back of the book with canton flannel which extends three-fourths of an
inch on each side. When dry, paste the entire back of book and sides and
put the book back into the cover, pasting down the new end paper. This
is, in effect, recasing. (See page 184.)
Sometimes books which are loose at the joints and have loose signatures
may be mended by applying paste with a long-handled paste brush to the
backs of the signatures. This must never be done if it is possible that
the book will need to be rebound later.
FLY-LEAVES
To add new fly-leaves, cut paper suitable for this purpose the same
length as the old fly-leaves and one-half inch wider. Fold over this
one-half inch, paste it on the outside and attach it to the old
fly-leaf. If necessary, this may be used as a new end paper and pasted
to the cover over the old end paper. If used as an end paper, the book
should be pressed promptly to prevent it from warping.
REPAIR OF MAPS
All old or mutilated maps or charts must be flattened out by placing the
maps between large millboards with heavy weights over them, before they
can be inserted in books. Repairs may be made with onion skin paper or
any other thin, tough paper, the same as is done with torn leaves in
books. If the map is very old and valuable, it may be advisable to use
paper which resembles in a way the texture and color of the map itself.
It is advisable to mount all maps on some kind of cloth. It is best to
have this done by a regular binder, but it may be done in the library if
there is sufficient room.
If the map is to go on rollers, a piece of cotton cloth is tacked to a
large table, the top of the cloth pasted, and the map placed on top,
back down, all wrinkles having been removed. Millboards or strawboards
are then placed on the map and weights placed on top until it is dry.
This may take some time, after which it may be tacked to the rollers.
If it is a folding map or chart, it may be necessary to cut the map into
sections before mounting. When mounted there will be one-eighth of an
inch space between sections, so that the map itself will not be defaced
through constant folding. The mounting of such maps is a difficult task
and should be done only by an expert.
RECASING BOOKS
1. Remove book from the cover; cut out old super from the back of the
cover; thoroughly clean the back of the book of super and glue without
injuring the backs of the signatures. Lift the lining-paper from the
back and front boards of the cover and remove the old super. Scrape with
a knife the glue which does not come off with the super. If the back of
the book seems to be much thicker than the fore edge, pound down with a
backing-hammer.
2. Cut strips of muslin (or canton flannel) a little shorter than the
height of the book, wide enough to cover the back and to extend over the
boards 1-1/4 inches on each side.
3. Cut enough flexible glue to fill a double-boiler glue pot half full
when dissolved. When the water comes to a boil the glue, which must be
used hot to get good results, will generally be ready to use. If it is
still too thick, add a little hot water to thin it.
4. Turn back the lining paper on front and back covers, spread the glue
on the inside of the back of the cover and on the boards where the
lining has been turned back.
5. Put the strip of muslin in the place just glued; then rub down the
lining paper over the muslin.
6. Even up the book by tapping it on the table so that no leaves will
project at the top, bottom or front.
7. Holding the book firmly in the hand, glue the back.
8. Place the back on the muslin lining previously glued to the back of
the cover, care being taken to see that the book is not put in upside
down.
9. Fold over the cover and, taking the entire book firmly in the left
hand, with the right hand push the book firmly back into the cover. This
will prevent it from becoming concave.
10. Crease the joints with a bone folder and rub down the back.
11. When the book is dry, open it and, if necessary, paste new papers
over the inside covers. This is necessary, because it is frequently
impossible to turn back the lining and remove the old super without
making an unsightly piece of work.
RECOVERING
Rules for recovering can be used only when books do not need to be
resewed.
1. Remove cover from the main part of the book.
2. Remove with a dull knife the cloth from the outside and inside of the
cover until the two boards are clean, being careful not to cut into the
board itself. It is not worth while to remove old paper sides or end
papers.
3. Remove superfluous glue, super, etc., from the back. If the book has
been overcast, and small strips of leather have been placed over the
back, paste the ends of these strips of leather to the end papers. Such
a book will also have end papers guarded which will remain as an
integral part of the book.
4. If the book has not been overcast, it will be necessary to add end
papers. This can be done by using two sheets which when folded once will
be the size of the leaves of the book. One of these should be a 60-pound
and the other an 80-pound manila paper, both guarded entirely around the
fold with jaconet. Whipstitch the 60-pound fly-leaves to the first and
last sections of the book, then whipstitch the 80-pound, being careful
to pass the needle back through the first section. Paste one of the
fly-leaves and one of the end papers together.
If the book has been oversewed, cut the end papers of 80-pound manila or
60-pound kraft paper the size of the book and paste on the entire
surface of the fly leaves which are integral parts of the book. It will
not be necessary to guard these new end papers.
5. Trim the new fly leaves and end papers the exact size of the book.
6. Mark the boards and book with corresponding numbers so as to identify
them.
7. Place boards on the book to within one-eighth of an inch of the back
and mark the distance from the back.
8. Measure exactly the distance across the back between marks just made
on the end papers.
9. Select the proper cloth with which to cover the book. Place the
boards on the cloth, allowing the width necessary for the back as
measured in No. 8.
10. Mark around boards on cloth.
11. Cut cloth, allowing approximately an inch and a quarter all around
outside edge of the boards.
12. Glue the entire surface of the cloth.
13. Place boards on markings previously made, pressing down firmly on
the glued cloth.
14. Put stiff paper, previously cut to the proper size, on the glued
cloth between the boards, to prevent the glue from sticking to the back
of the book. This should not be done if the book must have a tight back.
15. Turn in the corners as follows: Take the exact corner of the cloth
and turn it straight in over the corner of the board. Next turn in the
end and then the side. Rub down well with a bone folder.
16. With bone folder, round the corners, and crease the joints at the
back.
17. Put the case so formed into a press for a few minutes.
18. Cut a strip of thin, tough muslin or canton flannel one-half inch
shorter than the height of the book and wide enough to extend an inch on
each side of the book.
19. Glue the back of the book and put on the muslin or canton flannel.
20. Glue the entire surface of the completed case.
21. With the fore edge in the right hand, lay book in its proper place
on the right-hand cover, draw up the left-hand cover and lay it on top.
Open the book, rub down the end papers well with bone folder, and rub
down the back; also crease the joints.
22. Put book in press over night.
23. Letter by hand either with black or white ink as the case demands.
RE-SIDING
Many books which have been rebound with leather backs come to the
binding department with the cloth sides badly frayed at the corners or
edges. If the sewing is good and the book is clean, it is worth while to
put on new sides.
1. Remove cloth sides and smooth off the inside of the board with a dull
knife.
2. Cut two pieces of cloth a little larger than the sides.
3. Glue the inner surface of the cloth and place on the book, turning in
the corners as described in 15 on page 187.
4. Put book in the press.
5. After book is dry, paste a single end paper over the inside of each
cover.
REINFORCING
In Chapter 6 will be found a discussion of the advisability of
purchasing books bound from the sheets or in reinforced publisher's
covers. While it is advisable on the whole to have reinforcing done by
regular library binders, the work can be done in large libraries that
have proper equipment and labor. The essential principles of reinforcing
are the same in all libraries that practice it, though they may differ
as to minor details. The following method has proved satisfactory.
1. Remove the book from its cover, which is laid aside for future use.
If the call number is to be gilded it will be easier to do it before the
cover is removed than after it is replaced.
2. Make end papers and fly-leaves of 60-pound kraft paper or 80-pound
manila, guarded with jaconet on one side of the sheet. End papers should
be guarded on the inside of the fold.
3. Oversew the fly-leaves to the first and last sections of the book,
being careful that stitches are not over one-eighth of an inch deep.
4. Sew the end papers to the fly-leaves which have just been oversewed,
and paste fly-leaves and end papers together.
5. Apply a thin coating of flexible glue to the back of the book and put
over it a piece of thin canton flannel cut as long as the book and wide
enough to extend an inch on each side. This should be well rubbed down.
6. Paste the canton flannel which projects on the side to the end
papers.
7. Glue one side of the book and place it on the proper side of the
cover. Glue the side remaining uppermost and draw the cover up over it.
8. Rub both sides and back until sure that the glue is well forced into
them.
9. If desired, the book may be given a coat of white shellac and one of
varnish, after which it should be wiped with a paraffine cloth.
MAGAZINE OR PAMPHLET COVERING
1. Cut red rope manila cardboard the exact size of the two covers plus
the width of the back.
2. Remove the cover of magazine or pamphlet, if possible keeping it in
one piece.
3. Fit the red rope cover over the magazine, creasing carefully at the
joints with a folder so that it will lie flat across the back as well as
over the sides.
4. Glue the back of the magazine with flexible glue and press it firmly
into the improvised cover. Rub down the back with a folder.
5. Thread a needle with stout linen thread and, using it double, at the
middle of the book put the needle through from the inside to the
outside. Leave about two inches of thread projecting on the inside.
6. Put the needle through from the outside about an inch from the head
of the book. The needle must come through in the same section where the
thread is projecting.
7. Carry the thread through to about the same distance from the tail of
the book and again put the needle through from the inside to the
outside.
8. Return the needle at the same place where the first stitch was taken
and tie to the thread left projecting in such a way as to hold fast the
long thread through the center.
9. Paste the paper cover previously removed on to the new cover.
This method can be used for all pamphlets one-half inch or more thick;
even for those two inches thick, provided that the use they will receive
is slight. In the case of the thicker unbound books, it is necessary to
sew them in two or three places.
LABELING
Few libraries can afford to have all call numbers gilded. Therefore it
is necessary either to letter directly on the book, or to put call
numbers in ink on a white label which has first been placed on the book.
Much objection exists to these gummed labels, because it is claimed that
they come off very easily and the work soon has to be done over again.
Undoubtedly this is true if the labels are not properly put on; but if
care be taken, there is no reason why the white gummed labels should not
last until it is necessary to rebind a book, when of course the call
number will be gilded.
Two points must be remembered in applying labels.
1. They must be put on at an even distance from the bottom of the book.
Perhaps nothing else will give a library such an unsightly appearance as
uneven labels--some at the top, some in the middle and some at the
bottom. The exact distance from the bottom of the book is not one of
great importance, but the bottom of the label should not be less than
1-1/4 inches from the bottom of the book, nor more than two inches.
Whatever distance is adopted, it will be necessary to have a piece of
cardboard which may be used as a measure when applying the label.
2. Labels must be fastened so securely that they will not come off. This
seems sufficiently obvious, but as a matter of fact many assistants who
do this work do not spend sufficient time to do it right.
The following directions should be followed:
_a._ If the book is new, it will be necessary to break down the glazed
surface of the cloth or leather where the label is to be placed. To do
this, use ammonia diluted somewhat with water. Use a brush about the
width of the label and draw across the back of the book at the proper
place. After having done ten or a dozen books, it is best to wipe off
the ammonia with a piece of cheesecloth which brings with it the glaze.
_b._ Labels are not put on until books are dry. Use labels made of extra
heavy paper, so that they will not turn dark when shellac is applied
later. They may be moistened on a wet sponge or on some one of the
numerous moisteners, or better still, they may be dipped quickly in hot
water with a pair of tweezers. In using some labels it is not
inadvisable to cover the gummed surface with a thin coating of paste. As
soon as the label is pasted on the book straight and in proper
alignment, it should be pressed firmly down with a piece of cheesecloth.
This part of the operation should not be hurried and considerable
pressure should be used until the label has firmly adhered.
_c._ When dry, letter with India ink and cover label with a very thin
coating of white shellac. Later, when the first coating is thoroughly
dry, cover with a thicker coating of shellac. This should be done
quickly and neatly. If the line of shellac is uneven the book has an
unsightly appearance.
_d._ If books are thin, it is best to put labels on lengthwise. If very
thin, put labels on front covers, near the back. If labels project over
the back, trim with scissors.
If books have been used or have already had labels, the process is the
same, except that no ammonia need be used.
Old labels which have been shellaced are hard to remove. The best way is
to apply ammonia and water to the label, allowing it to soak in. When
thoroughly moistened, remove with a dull knife. Removing dry labels by
scraping with a knife injures the back of the book.
LETTERING
BY HAND
It is sometimes feasible to letter with ink on the back of a book
instead of putting on a label which holds the lettering. If the surface
be glazed, it can be broken down with diluted ammonia, or sometimes
merely a damp cloth will be sufficient.
So far as possible, letter with black India ink. Carter's white ink is
the best for lettering dark colored cloths. It is sometimes difficult
for a novice to use white ink, but it can be handled satisfactorily if
one uses a stub pen which is kept perfectly clean and is always wiped
before being dipped in the ink. Shake the bottle often and add water if
ink is too thick. Gold ink should never be used.
When lettering is dry, apply shellac as described under Labeling.
WITH TYPE
Some of the larger libraries have found it economic to have a binder's
printing outfit for lettering call numbers on all books, even when the
library does not bind books. Such an outfit may be used of course for
lettering author and title, but there will be little occasion to do this
except in connection with a regular bindery. Call numbers, however, are
so much more legible and permanent when put on with type that it should
always be done whenever the number of accessions is sufficiently large
to warrant the employment of some person to do the work. It does not,
however, need experienced finishers and, if time permits, may be done by
regular library assistants after some instruction and practice. It will
be discovered, however, that lettering in gold on cloth is more
difficult than on leather. For the benefit of those who wish to try it
the following description is given.
_Tools._ The tools necessary are a pallet to hold the type; four fonts
of brass type (lead, or type other than brass should never be used);
long-bladed knife with straight edge for cutting gold leaf; cutting pad;
gas burner similar to the burners on cook stoves; and a frame with
wooden screws in which to hold the book while it is being stamped.
_Materials._ The materials needed are the best American gold leaf,
cotton batting, sweet oil, some specially prepared rubber for removing
the excess gold leaf, and glaire.
The tools or materials which are used exclusively by binders can be
obtained from any binders' supply house. Glaire is easily made as
follows:
Take whites of three eggs; add three teaspoonfuls of vinegar and beat
until it is a light froth. Let stand a few hours and strain through a
piece of muslin into a bottle. If kept corked glaire will keep for some
time.
_Process._ 1. Place on finishing bench, backs up, books on which call
numbers are to be gilded.
2. With a small sponge, apply the glaire to the part of the back which
is to receive the call number, taking care to draw the sponge evenly
across the back, leaving a straight line. If the application of glaire
makes that part of the book appear radically different from the rest of
the back, the glaire may be applied to the entire back. It should not be
allowed to run over on the sides. Allow the glaire to dry thoroughly.
3. With a long-bladed knife, transfer a sheet of gold leaf to the
cutting pad which must be thoroughly protected by screens from all
draughts. If the gold leaf does not lie unwrinkled on the cutting pad
breathe on it lightly. With the knife, cut the leaf in proper size for
work to be done, being careful to make the cuts clean, not ragged.
4. Arrange type in the pallet, beginning at the right, and put type in
the gas to heat.
5. Screw book, back up, firmly in the frame.
6. With cotton batting, apply sweet oil to the part to be stamped, being
careful to cover thoroughly this surface with the oil. This is done to
make the gold stick.
7. Apply a piece of cotton, slightly oiled, to the gold leaf which will
instantly stick. It can then be transferred to the book, where the sweet
oil will hold it securely.
8. Test the type for heat. A little practice will soon teach the novice
when the type is hot enough. The object of heating the type is to make
the gold combine with the glaire in such a way as to cause the gold to
adhere. It is better to have the type too cold rather than too hot. If
it is too cold, the gold will not stick and the work must be done over
again; if too hot, it burns the leather or cloth and the damage is
irremediable. For cloth work the type can be used hotter than for
leather.
9. Apply type to the book, pressing down firmly. The pressure makes an
indentation. If the materials are of the right quality, the work
carefully done and the type of the right degree of heat, the gold will
be firmly embedded.
10. With the specially prepared rubber remove the waste gold. When the
rubber has absorbed all the gold that it is capable of taking up, it may
be sent to a dealer who will refine it and give credit for the gold
which it contains. About one-third of the original cost of the gold
should be obtained from the sale of the waste.
Whenever books are bound in light colored cloths on which gold does not
readily show use a black ink specially made for this purpose. It is much
easier to use than gold, since the ink is evenly spread on a smooth,
hard surface and the type is used cold. No glaire is necessary.