In home waters. The celebration in our honor. And
what of my companions? Reveries and Recollections.
The End Page 229
"_The Camera Cannot Lie_"
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Dr. Walter E. Traprock and Snak Frontispiece
Triplett the Undaunted 23
Un Déjeuner à la Bougie 35
What the Well-dressed Explorer will Wear 47
The Big Hunting 59
The Two Bears 71
The Nine o'Clock Bottle 83
Intensive Optimism 95
The Avowal 107
About to be Captured 117
Something New in Dramatics 127
After the Bath 137
Dinner is Served 147
A Far-off Fashion Plate 157
A Nimrod of the North 167
An Arch Archeologist 177
The Battle on the Brink 187
Ode to the Aurora 197
A Moment Musical 209
Dirty Work at the Igloo? 221
A Consultation 233
Photographs by
N. COURTNEY OWEN
MY NORTHERN EXPOSURE
Chapter I
_The Origin of the Expedition. A memorable meeting. Inklings of a
plot. My innocent enthusiasm. Our personnel. I put the proposition up
to Triplett._
MY NORTHERN EXPOSURE
Chapter I
"Mush!"
The cry of command rang out on the frosty air.
"Mush!"
Again the surrounding ice echoed the word which seems, more than any
other, to tell the whole story of the North.
At its repetition, my sturdy followers hurled their bulks against the
trace-collars while a babel of exhortation shattered the silence.
"Let's go!" "We're off." "Attaboy!"
The Traprock Polar Expedition was on its way!
We had reached the edge of the great polar-pack. Those of my readers
whose knowledge of ice packs is limited to those which can be wrapped
in an ordinary hand-towel can, of course, form no impression of the
magnitude and desolation of the scene which lay before us. As far as
the eye could see....
But I am far north of my narrative. It would be an obvious injustice
to my companions and fellow-polarists to omit mention at this time of
the personnel of our extraordinary expedition, the most complete and
carefully organized that ever set out toward the Big Peg.
Let us go back, then, in memory to the eventful meeting of the
Explorers Union, held in Cambridge on Friday, April 1st, 1921. I can
see the picture with vivid distinctness, the shining bald-heads and
snowy crowns of the aged members, o'er arched by the larger but no more
dignified dome of the Rotunda itself, the bright spots of light on the
polished mahogany table, the swift fingered secretary, who had gorgeous
henna hair, I remember--I can see it all;--and I can hear clearly
the voice of old Dr. Waxman, the President, (whose exploits in the
Ant-Arctic will be well remembered,[2]) as he rose and said,
"Well then, gentlemen, it is settled. Traprock must go."
The company as one man echoed the President's remark.
"Traprock must go!"
With the sound of this verdict ringing in my ears I delivered a short
speech of appreciation. Little did I realize at the time the sinister
influences which had been at work to bring about the very result
which so filled my heart with pride. Little did I know that among the
men who sat by my side that evening sharing with me the hand and hip
of friendship, passing me an occasional peanut from the store which
the President was cracking with his gavel, little did I imagine that
among them were some to whom the words "Traprock must go" meant a far
different thing from what it did to me. But as old Tertullian has it,
"_Nemo me impune lacessit_"--"What you don't know won't hurt you"; and
so from a full heart I thanked them.
At the end of twenty minutes, President Waxman interrupted me to ask,
"When can you start?"
I heard one of the older members whisper, "Not 'when can he start?'
When can he stop?"
"Now." I answered with characteristic brevity, giving the whispering
member a look which he will never forget.
The meeting broke up forthwith. Before leaving the Rotunda, Adolph
Banderholtz, Secretary-for-Polar-Affairs of the Explorers Union (which
I shall hereafter refer to as the E.U.) handed me a typewritten list of
names.
"These are our nominations for the expedition," he said with
his shallow smile. "You will find them admirably equipped in their
respective departments. Good-bye."
TRIPLETT THE UNDAUNTED
Captain Ezra Triplett, the navigator of Dr. Traprock's metamorphic
yawl needs no introduction to students of marine accomplishment.
To lay-readers perhaps a brief preamble is in order. Born a
not-too-simple son of New Bedford, Mass., Triplett has climbed the
rope-ladder of success from cabin-boy to Captaincy, from poop-deck to
mast-head. Gifted with uncanny nautical skill this Captain Courageous
is equally at home on ice.
Seldom if ever has the camera been more successful in catching the
very soul of the sitter, who in this case is standing. But whether
_assis_ or _debout_ Ezra Triplett is always master of the situation.
The animals in the background are not dogs but Amoks, those wild
vulpines of the North which have been trained by hand to obey their
master's voice.
The whip, coiled snake-like about the Captain's friendly artics, is
an entirely superfluous emblem of authority, for this remarkable man
achieves his results by the power of the human eye alone. In this
connection it should be noted that Triplett is limited to a single
optic. The one on the right as one faces the photograph is phony,
the original having literally leaped out of its socket many years
ago during an exciting kangaroo hunt. The eye, rolling away into the
bush, was never recovered in spite of a handsome reward-notice in the
Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide press. Thus Triplett lost not only the
sight of the eye but the eye itself. What the Captain achieves with
his single orb is nothing short of amazing and we have frequently
seen him face-down such fearless fellow-men as George Jean Nathan
merely by turning towards them _his blind_ eye.
Both attitude and costume are superbly characteristic, the massive
oak-timbered frame filling to repletion the bearskin jerkin with
its practical one-man-top. As a protection for the nether limbs
Triplett invariably wore light woolen pajamas with gee-string exits
and entrances. This scant covering was ample even in the severest
weather, owing to the fact that Triplett's own limbs are clothed with
a heavy coat of natural fur which, in his own words, is "grown on the
place."
[Illustration: Triplett the Undaunted]
He extended a limp hand which I hurt as much as possible by using a
peculiar grip taught me by an old swaboda in the Malay peninsula. He
went deathly white and faded from my view. I fear I do not always
realize my strength.
Banderholtz is one of the type of arm-chair explorers which I
particularly detest. Everything he does is superficial. In the early
days when airplanes were safer than they are now because they would
not rise more than six feet from the ground, he gained a great
reputation as a birdman on the strength of once having been up in a
captive-balloon in the Bois de Boulogne.
But this is no place for personal animosities. I caught the midnight
train to New York, rang for the Porter and insisted that my section
be un-made and a table furnished. Now that the matter was settled I
was burning with a desire to work out the details. All night I toiled
away, the click of my typewriter being the only sound except an
occasional curse from the occupants of nearby berths. An old gentleman
in upper-seven disturbed me somewhat with his snoring but gradually
the sound blended itself with the snorts of the sea-lions which I
was already hearing in imagination and I became oblivious to all
interruption. When the train pulled into Grand Central my preliminary
work was complete. My various lists, personnel, food, equipment,
scientific objects, etc. had all been sketched out. The remaining weeks
of April were devoted to the detail of complete organization, all of
which I attended to personally.
Since I have already spoken of the E.U. list of names, I may as well
dispose of the subject at this time. Quite naturally it was composed,
in the main, of scientific men, men famed each in his particular field.
I knew them by their works, and a casual glance at the list convinced
me that our expedition would compare with the best in its scientific
departments.
The first name was that of Warburton Plock, whose reputation in
anthropology, zoology and biology fitted him to size up and classify
any living thing. Plock's work on simians and femurae is the accepted
monkey-manual in most menageries. I shall never forget the impression
it made upon me the first time I read it.
The important studies of cartography, oceanography, topography and
kindred subjects were allotted to Elmer E. Miskin, of the E.U. library
forces. Miskin was what one might call a self-made explorer. He had
worked his way up from the bottom of the paper basket, through a long
course in filing and cataloguing. While a boy in the grade schools of
his native town of Peapack, N.J. he had shown early promise by winning
five consecutive gold stars in map-drawing and one of his prize-winning
creations with the Orange Mountains represented by caterpillars glued
on the cardboard now hangs behind the door of the Principal's office of
the Hooker Avenue School. This was his first experience in the field.
Three other names complete the E.U. list, Croyden Sloff, magnetician,
electrician and victrologist, Winchester Wigmore, snow- and ice-expert
and Bartholomew Dane, egyptologist.
It was with surprise that I saw the name of Warburton Plock. We had
met frequently in the old days when we used to gather round the keg at
the E.U. meetings and our feelings had always been antipathetic. But I
resolved that no fancied grudges should cloud the sky of our venture
and immediately wired Plock a cordial telegram saying, "Am counting on
your loyal support and hope I shall get it."
It is hardly necessary to say that my own selections for travelling
companions included my old friends Herman Swank, the artist, and Reg
Whinney, scientist, whose loyalty and devotion during my South Sea
travels have forged links of friendship which can never be broken.
Swank's enthusiasm at the prospect of actually painting the aurora
borealis from life was unbounded. He at once thought of his colleagues
in the colorful modern school. "I'll have them skinned a mile," he
cried.
Other men may possibly excel in special lines, but I am confident
that as an all-round scientist, Whinney can give them all cards and
spades. His fund of general information saved me thousands of dollars
for he combined several people in one. For instance he knew quite
enough about medicine to be our official doctor. As soon as he received
the polar invitation he set about studying polar diseases, snow
blindness, scurvy, chill-blains, frost-bite and so on. He was an expert
photographer and got results from a 3-1/4 × 4-1/4 Kodak that surprised
everybody including himself. He had also become keenly interested in
radiography and brought a complete outfit aboard with him, using his
own body as a spool upon which to coil his antennae until they could be
rigged in a proper manner. Most men have two sides, but Whinney had
at least a dozen. He combined many men in one. Way back in our college
days I recall that he was taken on the Christmas trip of the Glee Club
because he could play the banjo and he made the banjo-club because he
could sing. He wasn't good at either but he averaged well.
In addition to Swank and Whinney, I made another selection based on
painstaking thought. I asked my life-long friend, Sydney Freemantle
Frissell, to go along as recreationist and entertainer. Northern
expeditions, especially through the long hours of the Arctic night are
very dull affairs. Along about midnight, with morning three months
away, the party is apt to die. Then is when a man like Frissell is
invaluable. He has no brains whatever, but the most amazing vitality
and can wake up any assembly by sheer audacity. I deliberated a long
time as to whether to get Ed Wynn or Frissell, but finally decided in
favor of Frizzy as he could come and Wynn couldn't.
Needless to say, our Captain was the same staunch old oak-framed
navigator, Ezra Triplett, who had gotten the Kawa into so many tight
holes in the past.
"What ship?" he asked when I put it up to him.
"Kawa," I said.
"Done, by thunder," he roared.
Honest Ezra Triplett! Loyal, staunch friend, quaint, saturnine,
creature that he is.
"Doc," he said, "I'd like darn well to take one of my wives along.
It's gonter be kinder lonely up there in the ice with all you boys off
gunnin'."
I smiled indulgently at the old man's foibles.
"Which one do you want to take?"
"The gal from Sausalito," he explained. "I ain't seen her in about a
year, an' I'm gettin' kinder fed-up on ... you know ... Noo York."
I nodded. "We'll have to keep it secret. You know I've absolutely
forbidden it. She can join us at St. Johns and come aboard as wardrobe
woman. No one must suspect that she is your wife."
Triplett shifted his quid and slowly winked his false eye.
"She ain't," he said.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 2: "Ants of the Ant-Arctic" by W.W. Waxman, F.O.B.]
Chapter II
_Our triumphant departure. A man missing. Wigmore's gallant
embarkation. The Kawa herself. A new idea in construction. A few
boresome details._
Chapter II
From her berth in the Harlem, the Kawa steamed, or to be more exact,
gasolined, to the landing stage of the N.Y.Y.C. station at the foot
of East Twenty-second St. Our progress had been one of triumph. Every
passing ship had hailed us by bell, whistle or horn, to which was added
the hoarse blare of sirens from the converted breweries which line the
banks. Gay stevedores threw their caps in the air and tossed lumps of
coal in our direction, surely a magnificent tribute with coal at its
present price. Street urchins shouted unintelligible remarks and all
manner of citizens joined in the usual riparian rites. Passing under
the stern of a United Fruit Company steamer, the cook waved a farewell
from his galley and dumped a bucket of potato peelings in our path.
Off Blackwell's Island the scene was particularly affecting, the
inmates giving me an appreciative greeting, the trusties rushing to
the sea wall and gazing longingly in my direction while those in
durance vile plucked off their shoes and beat upon the cell bars to
attract my attention. With my glasses, I thought I recognized one or
two familiar faces but I can not be sure. At any rate I feel certain
that their hearts went out to me even as mine went in to them, and I
could but paraphrase the remark of Dean Bullock, "There, but for the
Grace of God, is the whole Traprock Expedition."
UN DÉJEUNER À LA BOUGIE
The candle which Dr. Traprock presented to the beautiful Ikik as
a love-token was generously shared by her with her co-wives. Its
appeal, curiously, was entirely gustatory, the flavor of refined wax
being a revelation to the native taste after their customary fare of
seal-fat and fish-oil.
Here we see the charming Yalok nibbling her share of the prized
dainty. The candle shown is one of six, specially cast for Dr.
Traprock by the Candlemas Club of Pittsburgh. Each one was designed
to last a month and thus bring light into the Arctic night. The
donors doubtless will be surprised and pleased at the knowledge that
the heroic-size of their gift met with great appreciation though not,
perhaps, in the way intended.
"Evening after evening," says Dr. Traprock in a private letter to
the editor, "the maidens sate about our Primus, passing the candle
from hand to hand much as we pass a loving-cup, though with less
reluctance. Each would nibble perhaps an inch from the coveted
cylinder and then hand it to her neighbor, crying, 'Lapatok's turn!'
or 'Klipitok's turn!' with the heartiest good-will imaginable."
The eminent explorer adds in a later paragraph, "Yalok seemed the
most greedily fond of the great taper and on one occasion narrowly
escaped death from choking on the wick which became wound about her
palate. Seeing her inordinate appetite for the strange food, Ikik
gallantly ceded her share, but I solaced the latter by secretly
giving her the beeswax tomato from my mending kit upon which she
feasted in private with vast delight!"
It is hard to imagine a more touching human sidelight than the above
intimate incident. The Editor has forwarded a copy of Dr. Traprock's
letter to the Candlemas Club where it is suitably framed and hung in
the swimming-pool.
[Illustration: Un Déjeuner à la Bougie]
The reception at the Yacht Club station was a gay affair. It was
positively my first appearance upon any landing-stage. The efficient
steward had arranged an authoritative punch and many a hearty toast
was pledged and responded to with feeling. But we were soon on our way
again. My final orders sealed with the official-seal of the Explorers
Union, were placed in my hands by the venerable President, Waxman, who
was greatly affected at parting. He had been eating peanuts of which
he was passionately fond, and I recall that he thrust a few of them
into my hands after saying, "Traprock, we expect a great deal ..." he
choked, and was unable to complete his sentence.
At exactly two o'clock, on the flood tide, we backed out of the
pier and under Triplett's guidance worked our way sideways to
mid-channel. The steward at the Yacht Club dipped his colors and
fired a commodore's salute with his brass half-pounder to which I
replied in proper fashion, lining up the entire expedition at the
rail, eyes-right, while Triplett blew our Klaxon and shook a chain of
sleigh bells which Frissell had brought along "because they seemed so
northern."
It was during this lining-up process that I discovered that one man
was missing. It was Wigmore, the snow and ice expert, who had failed
to put in an appearance and I was greatly depressed by the fact which
seemed to me to be an evil omen. Moreover he was an extremely valuable
man with vast experience in alpine work as well as in the practical
phases of glaciology with which he came in contact in his work as
general-manager of the Higley Ice Cream Cone Co. But marine law is
rigid. We were due to sail at two sharp, Wigmore or no Wigmore, and we
sped off without him.
But my disappointment was to be almost immediately assuaged. When we
were about an eighth of a mile above the Canal Street bridge, the last
of the great arches which spans the river, Swank rushed up to me and
cried, "Look, look. There he is----!"
I followed the direction of his pointing finger. Sure enough, there
was Wigmore, a tiny speck, running along the center span of the
bridge. He was in full Alpine costume with rope, ax, pick and felt
hat, and I saw to my amazement that he was going to board us. With
the nimbleness of a chamois he scrambled over the railing, instantly
beginning a spider-like descent of his rope which he had hooked above.
Silhouetted against the sky I could see the curved feather in his cap,
a minute question mark. The question in my mind was one of hair-raising
anxiety. Would he make it, or not? Upon the answer seemed to depend
the whole success or failure of our venture. His descent was timed to
a nicety. Just as the Kawa plowed beneath him he gave a shake of his
body, loosening the fastening, and dropped lightly to the deck amid our
resounding cheers. Was it only in imagination that I saw the Goddess of
Liberty wave her gigantic, torch-bearing arm, as if she too felt the
thrill of a brave deed, nobly done?
"Bravo, Wigmore," I cried. "But what detained you?"
"My equipment, sir," he said, coming to attention. "They wouldn't let
me into my apartment. The clerk thought I was a line-man for the Edison
Company."
We all laughed heartily at the incident and settled down to
routine-life on ship-board. Our last farewell from the great port
of the Metropolis was from the Detention Ward on Ellis Island. The
Pesthouse band was out in full-force and blew germs into the air with
much enthusiasm, but Triplett had laid a course to windward so that we
felt no apprehension.
It is perhaps not amiss at this point to say something regarding the
highly important part played in our expedition by the Kawa herself. She
may be said, I think, to be the star of a distinguished cast, or more
accurately, that she divided stellar honors with me. For one of the
conditions which was part of my bargain with good old Waxman and his
associates was that I should actually take my ship to the Pole!
The expression on the faces of the worthy committee of the E.U. when I
accepted this astounding condition is something that I must leave to
the reader's imagination.
"Yes, gentlemen," I had said to them. "It can be done, and it will be
done. Either I hitch the Kawa to the Pole or I never return!"
My announcement was greeted with cheers.
Immediately upon my return from Boston I closeted myself with Captain
Triplett in the cozy nautical room of the Book-lovers Library and we
jointly went over the layout of the Kawa from stem to stern. We were
surrounded by files of drawings and a great mass of data upon naval
architecture with special reference to Arctic conditions. From the
outset I was imbued with a conviction that we should find nothing of
real importance in what had been done before. A careful study of my
predecessors convinced me that they had uniformly been on the wrong
track. What they had tried to do was to fight the ice. What I proposed
was to humor it.
The outstanding feature of such vessels as the Fram and the Roosevelt
was their rigidity. Their construction followed the general principle
of the onion, consisting of numerous layers of heavy oak sheathing
shored up from the inside with a veritable cob-web of balks, stanchions
and braces. In addition to this, the sides of these ships were shaped
so as to offer as small a vulnerable target as possible. The idea was
that the stupendous pinch and pressure of the ice-pack failing to get a
firm hold of the vessel should project her up from and out of the ice.
This idea is graphically illustrated by an ordinary, household orange
seed pinched sharply between the thumb and forefinger. But I could
not help smiling at the naive short-sightedness of these earlier men,
for, assuming as sometimes happened, that the constructive features
functioned as outlined, what then? The ship was merely lifted up until
she canted over at a ridiculous and uncomfortable angle where she lay
on the ice, a helpless and absurd spectacle. Further motion in any
direction was plainly impossible except at the whim of the floe itself
which often evinces a contradictory tendency to move southward instead
of northward as per schedule.
While not wishing to discard entirely the idea of elusive conformation
I saw at once that radical innovations would be necessary in order to
accomplish my object. In a word, I proposed to convert the Kawa into a
non-rigid type of vessel.
"Triplett," I said, during our first conference, "what is the
slipperiest animal you know?"
The ancient mariner scratched his head reflectively before replying.
"Seals."
"Right!" I cried. "Go to the seal, thou sluggard! Triplett, it's an
idea! We'll make the Kawa as easy to handle as a greased hot water
bottle."
For many days we worked over the plans and eventually began actual
operations on the Kawa herself, hauling her out for the purpose at
Tutbury's shipyard. She was completely eviscerated. Her oak ribs and
keel were removed and replaced by Austrian bent-wood, of the finest
temper. A thin layer of yew-planking was laid over her sides with
lapped, sliding joints, filled with elastic roofing-cement. Outside
of this came a second layer of slippery elm (3/8" × 2-1/2") laid
diagonally so that the joints crossed those of the yew. The entire
hull was then covered with seal-skin, fur side out. When she slid from
the ways on her re-launching the Kawa took the water as noiselessly
as a musk-rat, and it was with the greatest difficulty that we made
her fast as she slipped from the ship-wright's grasp at the slightest
pressure.[3]
"Gosh-t-a'mighty," grinned Triplett. "She's a seal!"
You may be sure I utilized Whinney's scientific ingenuity and it
is to him I owe two innovations which contributed greatly to our
success. One of these was the magnetic bowsprit, highly sensitized by
induction-coils run from the exhaust of our 20 h.p. Tutbury engine;
the other was the thermal water-line, the temperature of which could
be raised to 180 degrees by turning a switch which connected with our
storage batteries. Both of these inventions worked perfectly.
Thanks to the bowsprit the problem of steering our svelte craft, about
which Triplett had expressed some doubts, became a simple matter. Left
to herself she invariably came up into the north and as that was the
direction we wished to go all was well. The thermal water-line made
passage through all but the thickest ice comfortable and easy. For many
years the Kawa had had no water-line whatever so that we were uncertain
how she would behave. The new one consisted of a thin layer of copper
fastened to the elm siding, underneath the seal skin. I like to think
that the little Kawa behaved so nobly because she knew her water-line
was not visible.
Thus we arrived at a type of construction which gave us the strength
and elasticity of a water-tight basket. What we had lost in rigidity
we gained in feather-like lightness. Before her engines were installed
the Kawa floated on the surface like a toy balloon. When loaded, as she
usually was, she drew two-feet-six. The installation of the engine and
stowing of stores also had a tendency to stabilize the hull and keep
her masts pointing upward which was a distinct advantage.
In addition to these marine features it was necessary to consider the
eventuality of encountering solid, impenetrable ice in the region of
the pole, ice through which even the thermal water-line would not make
it possible for us to melt our way. Authorities agree that such ice may
be expected north of eighty-six, even though we planned to time our
arrival in that vicinity for mid-summer when, as is well known, the
weather is extremely hot. This is the fascination of Arctic travel; one
never knows what to expect. Our problem, then, was to make the Kawa
equally at home on the floe or in the open leads, a glorified sea-sled.
My previous experience with the various types of sledges convinced me
that for my purpose they were useless. My object was to take the Kawa
to the Pole. Then why not make the Kawa herself a sled?
I recognized instantly the feasibility of my scheme, which consisted of
folding guide-runners framed of carefully selected greenheart. When not
in use these runners extended horizontally along the counter, giving
my little craft a singularly bird-like appearance. Incidentally they
formed convenient luggage carriers similar to those attached to the
running boards of automobiles and, in fair weather, could be used as
piazzas or sleeping porches covered with a high pile of bear-skins to
make occupancy easy.
WHAT THE WELL-DRESSED EXPLORER WILL WEAR
Fine feathers do not make fine birds, but aigrettes are still forty
dollars a stalk. Something of this thought evidently dominated the
mind of Warburton Plock in the selection of his wardrobe. Plock, who
is shown against a typically iglootinous background, was the only
member of the expedition who paid no heed to his leader's advice in
this regard, namely, to dress off-the-Eskimos. Instead of so doing
he ordered his outfit built for him by Buskwa, the leading tailor
of Nome. The garments were taken aboard at St. John's and formed a
large part of Plock's luggage. They varied in design from a simple
going-away suit to the most elaborate mufti, sports costume and
evening dress.
In the attached fashion-plate the fastidious explorer is clad in
the well-known "Buskwa-model" morning suit, which is made from the
pelts of unborn teddy bears. This, according to the wearer, is the
super-correct thing for the Young-Man-About-the-Pole. The accessory
cane and cigarette are personal touches calculated to attract the
attention of whomsoever he may meet north of Eighty-six. Vanity, in
the Great White Spaces as elsewhere, precedes a fall, but usually
only by a step or so. To be fair to the house of Buskwa it should be
stated that Plock's garments were invariably tastefully designed and
well-made. No detail of findings or linings was slighted. They were,
however, entirely unsuited to the rigors of Polar climate.
The Buskwa trade is chiefly derived from the wealthier Chicoutimi
families living along the Mad River and points South. To single out
a single defect, the self-drawing fish-pockets are doubtless useful
features to a people who spend many hours in the salmon streams. In
the icy polar region the cold air naturally forced its way through
the sartorial scuppers with the result that the wearer was soon
forced to don another suit to avoid freezing. At the time of his
attempted escape Plock was wearing his entire wardrobe, seven suits
in all, which were recovered with the body of the fugitive. The
clothes were later eaten by members of the return-party, who more
than once had occasion to pay tribute to the tailor who had selected
such delicious materials.
[Illustration: What the Well-dressed Explorer Will Wear]
Thus you have a fairly complete idea of my metamorphosed vessel,
adapted to meet any and all conditions.
But one word more, as to stores and equipment, and I will promise not
to bore my readers further with these deadly technical details, which
I fully realize have prevented the success of many a tale of Arctic
adventure. In making up my lists I was guided by a principle which I
have followed all my life, namely, that of taking with me only those
things for which a proper substitute could not be found in the high
latitudes. This simple thought I always practise in a restaurant, for
instance, where I never by any chance order anything which might be
served in my home. Just prior to leaving New York I heard a gentleman
ask for corned-beef hash in the Ritz! I could but pity him. Yet it is
this apparently trivial tendency which has sent many an expedition
off to the Arctic circle burdened with voluminous packs of furs and
crushing weights of supplies, all of which could be most easily secured
from the Eskimos themselves who, with the possible exception of the
Cambodians, are the most friendly people I have ever encountered.[4]
Our clothing then was of the lightest. We started our journey dressed
in plain business suits such as are worn by guides in the Canadian
wilderness, but stowed in our duffle-bags were ample quantities of
light underwear, both union and non-union, while included in my
personal kit were three pairs of medium-weight, woolen longs with
reinforced or sliding seats to make progress over the ice more easy.
For outer wear during the warm season we carried the conventional
tennis flannels and Palm-Beach suits and I am thankful to Swank for the
suggestion that we include the tropical helmets which had shielded us
so faithfully in the Filberts. They proved of inestimable value.
Most travellers into the land of refrigeration insist upon taking in
with them bales of hay with which to pack their boots and thus absorb
the moisture which would otherwise result in aggravated cases of cold
feet. For this particular product I substituted a type of breakfast
food of my own invention called "wheat whiskers" which comes in
compacted cubes of farinaceous filament. These, when needed, can be
teased out to four times their initial bulk. The advantages of this
product are evident, since it is both excellent boot-packing and
nourishing food, or, as Frizzie put it "good for both hoof and mouth
disease." Another dual personality in our list of stores was the solid
alcohol, primarily intended for fuel, but also edible. This necessity
was under my immediate jurisdiction as the responsible head of the
party.
Too much credit can never be given to those great American
institutions, the 5-and-10-cent stores, from which we were able to
obtain at slight cost the necessary snow-goggles, ice-picks, cooking
utensils, etc., which form a part of every expedition. From the same
source we also purchased a sizable number of toys for use in bartering
with the natives. All these lighter elements of our baggage were
rolled in bolts of mosquito netting in the folds of which were packed
fly-swatters (two per man), bottles of citronella, green fishing-veils,
and other objects useful in combating the teeming insect life which
springs into being at the first touch of the Arctic sun.
These, then, were our general stores. Each individual looked after the
equipment necessary for his own department. Sections of the Kawa,
amidship, were allotted in alphabetical order, where, with a narrow
aisle between, were tightly crammed Plock's anthropological charts,
Miskin's map-cardboards, surveying instruments and colored crayons,
Sloff's batteries, Wigmore's alpine ice instruments (including a
horn), Dane's mummy-cases and scarabs, Whinney's camera supplies and
radio-outfit, and Swank's paints and palettes. Frissell's personal
impedimenta was unique and had no bearing whatever upon scientific
research. It consisted of eighteen different fancy-dress costumes,
wrapped up in which were a ukelele and six pogo sticks. At later
intervals he kept producing smaller musical instruments, magic egg-cups
and other entertaining devices which more than once rescued our spirits
from the depths of black despair. Triplett carried, as usual, only his
pouch of extra glass eyes and a small, well-worn, black bag which, to
my certain knowledge, he never opened. I think he felt that it gave
him dignity and was demanded of him, just as baggage is considered
necessary by some punctilious hotel clerks. Whenever we left ship
for more than a day, Triplett insisted on carrying his black bag. He
looked as if he were about either to embalm a body or tune a piano. I
could never quite decide which. One day when he was ill, during the
latter part of our trip, I peeked in the bag. It contained the upper
half of a pair of pajamas and the photograph of a beautiful,--but I
feel that respect for the old fellow's romantic heart, hidden deep
beneath his tough hide, forbids me to say more. Somehow that little
black bag became to me a symbol of its owner, concealing beneath its
alligator-skin rind the elements of some exquisite life-incident!
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 3: A quarter-scale model of the re-modeled Kawa has been
presented to the Smithsonian Institute by the Jibboom Club of New
London, Ct. Needless to say all structural and mechanical details are
thoroughly protected.]
[Footnote 4: As guest of King Sisawath II in 1908, I was presented
with the Bkatha or Freedom of the Palace, which was more than I could
possibly use.]
Chapter III
_The choice of a route. Off at last. We take aboard a passenger.
Seeds of discontent. Into the long twilight. Radio reversals. The ice
at last. Trouble with our water-line. Its happy solution._
Chapter III
Those of my readers who have not deserted during the cataloguing of
our supplies may be interested in knowing something of our route. The
lines of approach to the Pole are, of course, infinite in number. Let
me illustrate this fact in a simple way.
A direct projection of the northern hemisphere would resemble a pie
with the Equator at its rim and the Pole at its center. Now imagine
our pie cut into four quarters. We have, obviously, four ways to the
Pole. But now suppose the arrival of unexpected company, four in
number; a less generous distribution of our pie becomes necessary. The
scientific housewife would at once solve the difficulty by cutting the
pie on intervening lines. We now have eight pieces to our pie and,
consequently, eight ways to our pole. If we have eight we may
have sixteen, if sixteen, thirty-two, and so on, by subdivision, to
infinity. Q.E.D.[5]
THE BIG HUNTING
As soon as the early August frosts warn the Eskimo huntsman that
winter is nigh, he begins to think about his food-supply. In fact
this is a thing he thinks about most of the time. Food is the
paramount consideration in polar-regions. It is the standard of
value, the source of warmth, the unit of measure it is everything.
There are in reality but two seasons, Winter and Summer, in the
regions immediately surrounding the Pole. Hunting is impossible in
the one because of the intense cold. But between the two periods come
a few days, a week at most, of intermediate temperature, too short to
be called Spring or Autumn, but too valuable to be lost. It is during
these short spells that the native must lay in his winter or summer
supply of meat, skins, etc. Consequently he is always in a hurry.
The photograph shows Makuik at his favorite sport of
seal-slaughtering. Dr. Traprock tells us that owing to the amazing
abundance of game in these remote regions it was possible for the
mighty hunter to pursue his prey for four days without stopping for
rest or food save for an occasional hunk of flesh or fat torn from
one of his victims _en passant_.
"Makuik's elation," says the intrepid author, "became almost
unpleasant." As the herds of seal, walrus and otary accumulated about
him their blood seemed to go to his head. Uttering a low crooning cry
which rose to a wild screech at every thrust of his raktok (trident)
he leaped about the floe with the soft agility of a Mordkin. An
extraordinary sight was to see him hurl his weapon into a passing
flock of pemmican, spearing a fine bird on each of its prongs. But
his favorite game was seals because of their comparative inability to
escape and their rich food-value. Incidentally the skins would make
excellent gifts for his wives during the approaching Yule-tide season
(Kryptok-Boknik-lok or Feast of Food). Makuik evidently believed in
"doing his Christmas stabbing early."
At the close of the "big hunting," Makuik had to his credit, besides
countless other game, four hundred and seventy seals. The photograph
pictures him making three holes in one, a feat which no golf-player
can ever hope to rival.
[Illustration: The Big Hunting]
The question immediately arose as to which route I should select. I
decided on the straightest, just as I had decided, in Cambridge, to
take the Kawa to the North Pole instead of the South because it was
nearer. Obviously I must reach the polar ice-pack before making my
beeline as my ship was adapted for but two elements, ice and water.
Travel over bare ground was not contemplated. Wheels had never entered
my head. How nearly this fact cost us our lives makes a thrilling story
but one which comes later.
Thus, our object was to round Cape Race and pick our way through Davis
Strait which runs due north through Baffin Bay, well beyond the Arctic
Circle. This is the most direct water route from New York.
Our last glimpse of the homeland was the white water over Sow-and-Pigs
Ledge off Cuttyhunk, from which we set a course North by slightly
East to pick up the gas-beacon at mouth of St. John's Harbor. As we
swashed along outside of Cuttyhunk I saw through my glasses a signal
flag waved from the piazza of the old fishing club which I recalled
having visited as a small boy in '88 when the last sea-bass was hauled
from those waters. A moment later a small boat put off from the beach
near the lighthouse and rowed in our direction. It was a hard pull for
the sturdy islanders but we stood by and finally took their helmsman
aboard who handed me a letter marked "Rush" which proved to be a notice
from the Westchester Lighting Company informing me that there was still
a payment due on my gas range. As I had opened this missive in the
privacy of my cabin I was able to go on deck and tell the messenger,
rather curtly, that there was "no answer" and the good fellows rowed
away, giving us a hearty cheer as we turned our nose to the open sea.
St. John's was our first port-of-call for I had to redeem my promise
to Triplett to pick up the woman, "Sausalito," as he called her. I
think the old man was inspired by the thought of seeing her, for he
gave us an exhibition of navigation that was an eye-opener. After
leaving Cuttyhunk we ran into a dense fog. For forty-eight hours
this continued, thick and impenetrable. Once we heard the distant
sound of the cod-fishers on the Banks singing their morning song--an
unspeakable chantey about a dissolute person named Mary Brown--but we
saw no gleam of binnacle, sun or shorelight. Yet through this murk,
with the magnetic pull on our bowsprit tending always to veer us from
our course, Triplett led us with such accuracy that at exactly the
appointed time we caught the distant flash of the beacon and knew that
our first leg had been completed.
My followers knew nothing of my plan to take Sausalito aboard and
my instructions to Triplett were to keep silent. The lady's first
appearance was not reassuring. She was standing on a dilapidated
pier head, valiantly defending herself from volleys of stones hurled
by native village lads. Crouching behind a rusty try-out kettle she
responded in kind, directing her missiles with vicious speed and
accuracy. A curious morning picture.
"That's her," chuckled Triplett. "She allus were a speritted female."
The others looked on wonderingly as the Captain dropped over the stern
into our cockle-boat, pulled toward the dock and took the bulky figure
aboard.
"Who the devil is this?" asked Plock, scowling darkly, as they neared
our counter.
"My sewing woman," I said briefly. "Lend a hand, man."
He did so with an ill grace, and a moment later I saw him whispering
to Wigmore and Sloff with every evidence of displeasure. I myself was
not a little upset at the over-exuberance of Triplett's manner toward
this strange woman. She was a dark, unkempt creature with bright
gray-blue eyes which contrasted strangely with her brown cheeks. Her
hair, what we could see of it, under her man's cap, was nondescript;
teeth irregular. Two extraordinary qualities, however, she had--a smile
which vivified her oddness with an unearthly beauty, a brilliant,
mocking irradiation that made her look magically youthful, a crone
metamorphosed into a little girl, and a voice--O, a mystery of still
waters!--such a voice!--a deep resonant contralto, at once caressing
and vibrant, with strange breaks and husky notes, melting softnesses
and brazen clangor! The Captain was delighted with the reunion.
"My leetle apple!" he cried, patting her, and, indeed, the term was
not inexact as her dusky cheeks flashed with pleasure 'neath his great
paws.
"How you've grown, Ezra!" she laughed, pointing to his capacious girth.
"Ain't I, though," he assented; "mostly 'round the water-line!"
I felt that it was time I intervened.
"Gentlemen," I said to the group which had gathered in the waist, "this
is Mrs. Sausalito, our sewing woman...."
Then Triplett fairly spiked my guns by adding,--
"And my wife!"
I could have killed the old fool! I hustled them both below and turned
back to face an indignant ship's company.
Block bustled up officiously. "See here, Traprock," he blustered, "we
don't like this. You know...."
"STOP!" I commanded in a voice that shook the Kawa to the place where
her keel would have been had she had one. "To begin with, I want you,
Plock, to know that I am not 'Traprock' to you or to any one else. I am
'_Doctor_ Traprock, _Sir_'--do you understand?"
Plock growled an uneasy assent as I continued.
"I know perfectly well what is in your minds, namely, that the
understanding was that there should be no wives on this voyage. This
Sausalito woman was engaged by me as seamstress. If she is Triplett's
wife, as he says, it is news to me. In any case I want it thoroughly
understood that I am Boss on this ship. To your posts! Ready-about to
wear ship. Triplett, take the helm." (He had come smirking out of the
cabin.)
With surly "Aye, aye, sirs," they took up their duties, as I struck
sharply on the table-bell which was screwed to the combing, the
faithful Tatbury began its revolutions and once more the little Kawa
slid gracefully through the long Atlantic swells.
It was a magnificent day but I was frankly depressed. Already a cloud
of discord had arisen in the ranks. Already an ominous rift had opened.
What might happen in the future only the future could tell. I was
filled with disquieting memories of what had occurred to other Arctic
explorers whose cohorts had been split by dissension and bitterness. I
knew full well how they had separated, sometimes to perish under the
very shadow of the Pole itself, sometimes to fight their way back to
civilization in broken fragments which spent the remainder of their
lives in vilifying each other. Little did I realize how much more
tragic was to be the outcome of this apparently trivial incident.
In the meantime I was lulled into false security. Two weeks of glorious
weather made our progress exceed even my sanguine schedules. Once clear
of Cape Race our course lay almost due north and the full force of the
magnetic pull on our bowsprit could be utilized. To this we added, in
favoring weather, a mainsail forward and a jigger aft so that we were
able to conserve our fuel supply most satisfactorily.
Our trip through Davis Strait into Baffin Bay was a sight-seeing trip
new to most of my men and I was glad to be able to point out to them
the objects of interest along either shore, on the left the cozy
English hamlets of Mugford, Chislinghurst-on-Trent and Philpot Island,
on the right the quaint Greenlandic fishing villages of Fiskernoes,
Svartenhunk and Sükkertoppen, names eloquent of their respective
origins.
The days grew steadily longer. We were approaching the long twilight.
On a memorable Tuesday in June we crossed the Arctic Circle. This is
always an exciting event but particularly so for those who experience
it for the first time. Needless to say, we observed the ritual honored
by mariners the world over. This follows closely the ceremony
celebrated in the tropics when "crossing the line," with the variation
that, instead of Neptune coming aboard, the aquatic visitor is the
North King, a snowy potentate who is received with due honor by all the
ship's company, especially the novices, who are forced to bring him
presents and perform tricks at his behest. We hove-to in a narrow inlet
on the Baffin shore known by the romantic name of Petty's Bight, where
we spent a blithe two hours. Triplett played the kingly rôle while I
acted as master of ceremonies. I must admit that this did not tend to
calm the somewhat ruffled feelings of my following but it made a merry
interlude in our routine.
During the long evenings Sausalito, laying aside her busy needle, would
read to us books from her own library, "The Sheik" and the works of
Ethel Dell, Harold Bell Wright and the Johnstons, Sir Harry and Owen.
It was surprising how entertaining these things became to our little
isolated band. Often after a particularly serious page the reader's
sunlike smile would flood the main-deck and the whole company would
burst into peals of laughter; then once more we would sit enthralled.
It must have been her voice. Frissell, alone, absented himself from
these readings and sat apart, lost in the perusal of "If Winter Comes"
which he supposed was a work intended for polar novices.
At this juncture Whinney was having a most annoying time with his radio
outfit upon which I had counted to keep the company amused. The best he
could get was a series of noises which, in themselves, were interesting
but scarcely entertaining. At times the magna-vox or "loud squeaker" as
Frissell called it, would emit dismal cat-calls such as I have often
heard from the upper gallery of theatres.
"That's Arlington!" Whinney would exclaim.
Again the sound would be that of penny-a-pack firecrackers such as one
gives to children.
"Newark is calling us!" Whinney would say seriously. "Wait a minute."
A series of readjustments and Jimmy Valentine motions with the
combination would result in a raucous scraping as if a discouraged
Victrola had cut its throat.
"Pittsburgh!" would be the operator's triumphant comment. "Wait a
minute!"
We waited many a minute and hour, patiently expectant, but nothing
happened. The most trying thing was Whinney's explanation. He would
fix us mournfully with his brown eyes, while at the same time trying to
fix the machine and say solemnly:
"The length of the antennae is in direct relation to the wave length of
the tuner. At the same time the vacuum tubes must be connected with or,
at least, related by oscillation to the tuning circuit. When a ship is
in motion the undue number of electric 'strays' disturbs the delicate
filaments of the tickler and absolutely wrecks the radio activity."
"I had one of those Radio-Rex things," cried Swank. "My sweetie gave it
to me for Xmas."
"I suppose you gave her a tickler," rumbled Triplett.
THE TWO BEARS
Ikik is solemn. Ikik is offended. Her tender heart is roused. Why?
In the answer lies the story of one of the most charming incidents
of the Kawa's entire polar-cruise. In another picture the reader
will see Makuik descending with murderous intent, on the back of a
large polar-bear. Shortly after the kill it was discovered that this
bear had just become a mother. Her offspring--there was but one--was
immediately adopted by Ikik. Mother-love, which flourishes even in
the high latitudes, surrounded the little cub with every protection.
First reared as a bottle-bear, the bearlet passed safely through
the teething period and soon became the regular attendant of his
foster-mother who fed him solicitously at every meal.
It was this devotion which brought about the disturbance recorded by
the camera. Warburton Plock seems to have developed an insatiable
fondness for toasted-blubber. Not content with his own share he
resorted to the cowardly practice of prigging from Toktok, as this
_ursus minimus_ was called. His method was characteristic of the man,
combining cunning with greed. Having privately constructed a small
cube of wood corresponding in size to the usual blubber-portion he
would attract Toktok's attention and ostentatiously bury the decoy
in the snow at some distance from the actual feeding ground. Then,
while the little chap was busily digging for the supposed dainty
Plock would swipe the real blubber which Makuik distributed with an
impartial hand.
Ikik was no match in logic for the wily scientist.
"You are robbing my baby!" she wailed in the present instance.
"Yes," agreed Plock, "and your baby is under the impression that he
is robbing me."
Needless to say Dr. Traprock settled this matter in his own direct
fashion. As he said in conversation with the writer, "It is
impossible to argue with such fellows. The only practical thing is to
crown them."
[Illustration: The Two Bears]
The whole business vastly amused the old salt. He could see nothing but
foolishness in Whinney's maneuvers, "trying to git God-a'mighty on the
'phone," as he put it.
But the attempts whiled away many an idle moment, and day by day we
were passing landmarks which told me clearly that our goal was nearer.
The water became steadily colder, a fact which we verified by the usual
scientific method of dipping out pailfuls from time to time and taking
their temperature with a bath thermometer.
At the northern end of Kane Basin where Greenland makes out toward
Ellesmere and Grant Land we began to encounter ice. My readers can
perhaps imagine the thrill which was mine when I first heard the soft
scrape of frozen lips against the Kawa's silky skin!
Ice at last! Ice! the vaunted terror of the north! Leaning over the
garboard streak I watched anxiously to see how our gallant carrier
would take to the element for which she was designed. It was a magical
performance and a warm glow of satisfaction suffused my heart as I
noted how she slipped through the glazed surface. Far beyond in the
northern sky gleamed the "ice blink," that luminous brightness which
told of frozen fields and floes in the great beyond. We could feel the
chill of their vast bulk as we sat on deck of an evening.
We were now at the 82nd parallel and were passing through what is known
as mulch ice, which is of about the same consistency and saltiness
as ordinary brine. Wigmore made a number of interesting experiments
with a small freezer, using corn starch and condensed milk from his
own equipment and was able to produce a fair quality of ice cream
which had a slightly oily flavor doubtless due to the presence of
seals. From then on the ice developed into what is called squidge-ice,
thicker and more lumpy than mulch, but still navigable. This, however,
soon became a solid sheet, from four to ten inches in thickness, the
Kawa's progress became slower and with something like acute anxiety I
requested Whinney to switch on the thermal water line.
The effect surprised even Whinney whose inventive imagination had
proven itself capable of foreseeing almost anything which might happen
and many which might not. We were instantly surrounded by a dense fog
of our own making!
The ice edges of the squidge coming in contact with the candescent
copper vaporized immediately and the atmosphere on board became that
of a Turkish steam-room. As is often the case it was not so much the
heat as the humidity.[6] Our clothing was wringing wet and we were
perspiring at every pore. It was easy to see what the fatal result
would be when we shut off the electric spark and exposed our wide-open
pores to the icy breath of the north. Pneumonia and consumption, if not
worse, were almost certain.
Ordering all hands below for a rub-down we came to a standstill
and for two days did nothing more than maintain our position by
quarter-speed revolutions of the Tutbury. At the end of that time
Whinney emerged from the main hatch, where he had been incubating
his ideas, with a look of suppressed elation which told me that he
had found a solution of our difficulty. Without a word he set about
stringing wires from the storage batteries to two points on the forward
rail on a line with the capstan. In less time than it takes to tell it
he had lashed two electric fans to the projecting sides of the guide
runners and screwed the wires into the poles after which he walked aft
and came to attention.
"You may fire when ready, sir," he said, hand-at-visor.
I gave the signal and once more the throb of the engines shook our
jelly-like sides, once more we heard the hiss and crackle of the
squidge as it gave way before our burning zone but--a new sound! We
also heard the blended sonority of the two fans as they pushed a
powerful current of air along our water line. Dense and low, the fog
streamed past us like parted rivers of milk, to rise in soft clouds far
to the southward.
A spontaneous cheer burst from my anxious band and we gave Whinney
three times three with a right good will. At Triplett's suggestion--for
he was overjoyed at being able to see where he was going--I ordered
"half holiday" and issued five plugs of solid alcohol in honor of our
resumed motion. It was a happy evening we spent in the little cabin,
Triplett, Sausalito and I, while the others sat on deck in the pale
sunlight, crooning the old song which has been sung by polar explorers
since viking days, "Nordenskold! Nordenskold! Tilig am poel."[7]
Triplett's adjustable yard-arm which controlled our conviviality was
occasionally shifted to keep the low circling sun directly over it
and many a toast was eaten as the cheery plug passed round. My last
conscious memory after my fifth quid, was the sound of Frissell's
ukelele above my head and beside me the unabashed endearments of
Triplett talking to his "apple."
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 5: Ekstrom illustrates the same point in his lectures by
using a cake (usually chocolate) in place of a pie. The objection to
this method is that the segmental walls have a tendency to crumble,
confusing the illusion of polar travel. Otherwise his system follows
mine.
W.E.T.]
[Footnote 6: In Taupol, the southernmost of the Maladive Islands, I
lived for three months in a similar climate without injurious results
but it must be borne in mind that I wore only a one-piece suit of
Khitra (gobang leaves). T.]
[Footnote 7: "Northland! Northland! I for you am." Undoubtedly
the fragment of an old Saga of Icelandic origin. A modern musical
derivative was once popular in American folk song with the refrain,
"Hip, Hooray, we're off for Baffin's Bay, etc." See W.J. Krehbiel's
"Gems of Greenland," pp. 94-96.]
Chapter IV
_We reach the polar cap. The strange incident of the missing Orders.
Who stole the papers? The Arctic summer. A sportsman's Paradise.
Notes from my journal. Whinney's sad experience._
Chapter IV
"Men, it is the Ice."
These words rang with a portentous solemnity as I delivered them to the
entire ship's company.
We had reached the solid floe. About us, white and interminable,
stretched the polar pack, with here and there inky streaks, the open
"leads" which often yawn between the very feet of unwary travellers.
But for us, the way lay straight. Glancing at the compass and adjusting
my gesture parallel to its needle, I pointed.
"Yonder lies the Pole!"
The seriousness of the moment imposed a silence broken only by the
screams of distant flocks of pemmican and the yooping of seals--for
we were in the land of prolific game. The second leg of our journey
was accomplished. The great test still remained, the long tug over the
rough floor to the Main Post itself.
"Men of the Traprock Expedition," I continued, "you have served
me long and faithfully. The reward of our efforts lies close at hand.
Yonder, I repeat, lies the Pole. Captain Triplett's last observation
shows that we are at 86° 13´ 6-7/8´´, fifteen miles better than all
previous records, Nansen's, Steffanson's and Peary's excepted. We
are running ahead of schedule time. From now on our progress will be
slower. But, though we will not be dragging light sledges over the ice,
remember that we carry our base of supplies with us. 'Tis an arduous
task, lads, but with fair weather and good luck we'll win through yet!"
THE NINE O'CLOCK BOTTLE
Here we have a typical scene in Camp Traprock during the late days
of the Arctic-Indian-Summer. Bartholomew Dane, the Egyptologist
and Sausalito are busily engaged nursing the expeditionary mascot,
Toktok, a tiny bear-cub which was adopted by Ikik after the demise
of its parent. The picture can give no idea of the painstaking care
which was lavished upon the little pet. As in the case of many
infants it was extremely difficult to find a food upon which he
would gain his orthodox ounce a day. Various forms of nourishment
were tried, the happy formula being finally found in a four-ounce
bottle administered every four hours, the meal consisting of modified
whale's-milk to which was added minute particles of "wheat-whiskers,"
a cereal-diluent to the perfection of which Dr. Traprock has devoted
many years of study.
Ikik, to whom credit must be given for the capture of the cub, was
hopelessly ignorant of how it should be cared for. Her idea was that
common to most primitive mothers, namely, that the infant should be
immediately put upon a meat or fat diet. The result of this treatment
was loss of weight and incessant crying on the part of Toktok.
Fortunately the ship's library contained a copy of Holt's "Care and
Feeding of Infants," a book which Dr. Traprock says he never feels
safe without.
Both Dane and Sausalito are wearing the summer costumes which are
practically a necessity during the heated term. Dane's tropic helmet
with its deeply overhanging cornice undoubtedly saved him from the
dreaded snow-blindness which so fatally attacked his companion
Whinney. The attractive dress worn by Sausalito is part of a wardrobe
assembled by her as she passed through Canada on her way to join
the expedition. The fur-edged chemisette and roll-down buskins are
similar to the parade uniform of the O'Howese Toboggan Club.
[Illustration: The Nine O'Clock Bottle]
The cheer which greeted this announcement surprised me by its
feebleness. I had felt that I was doing rather well. Plainly a number
of voices were silent. Puzzled and apprehensive I glanced toward my
men. Warburton Plock, oily and deferential, stood slightly in advance
of the others.
"Have you read your orders?" he asked.
"My orders?" I replied,--"my orders from whom?"
"Your sealed orders," he repeated, smiling craftily, "the ones Waxman
handed you when we left."
I did not like his tone. I detested the familiar way in which he spoke
of the aged president of the Explorers Union. His manner was that of
veiled bravado. The air was highly charged as before a coming storm.
"My brief-case ... cabin ... Swank.... Fetch."
I was excited and spoke monosyllabically, but Swank, like a faithful
dog, disappeared at the word "fetch" down the companion-way. In the
interval of his absence a thousand black thoughts whirled through my
brain. These mysterious orders, what were they? A plot ... something
was afoot, some deadly blow aimed to dash the cup of accomplishment
from my grasp as I raised it to my lips. To my credit I can say that,
even in this agonizing moment, I absolved Dr. Waxman of any share in
this dastardly work. I seemed to see his benevolent sheep-like face
smiling a good-bye, while before me, glowered Plock, palpably gloating
at my discomfiture. But orders were orders and duty was duty. Traprock
must be true! With a hand that trembled in spite of my best efforts, I
grasped the brief-case which Swank proffered and, turning it so that
all might see, I opened it.
It was empty!
I stood like a conjurer surprised by his own trick.
A threatening growl rose from the group huddled about Plock who now
came forward boldly, his face distorted with passion. The mask was off.
"This is buncomb, Traprock," he shouted. "You have done away with those
orders! Where are they? You know perfectly well that your instructions
are to...."
What he was about to divulge will never be known. Whipping up my left
arm I caught his heel with my right foot and the back of his head
struck the ice with a crack that roused the distant pemmican to renewed
screaming.[8]
"Stow that dunnage," I said quietly, and the limp carcass was tossed
aboard where it lolled grotesquely over the hatch-combing.
"To your places, you others...."
A slow, straining heave at the traces brought the Kawa up on her
guide-runners and she moved gracefully across the ice.
Pondering mournfully on the strange turn of events, wondering who could
have purloined the fateful packet, but taking care to show no exterior
sign of my perplexity, I trudged on, occasionally breaking the silence
with a single word of command.
"Mush."
* * * * *
Day succeeded day, days scarcely marked by any change, and yet there
was no sign of the missing document. The most rigid search was
fruitless and, gradually, the incident was forgotten.
So unbroken was the sunlight that it was only by exercising great care
in keeping our watches wound that we were able to know definitely just
what day it was. As time wore on, confusion arose. Miskin insisted
that it was Wednesday, Swank held out for Thursday and so on. But it
mattered little. They were all days of accomplishment and of glorious
Arctic summer, growing steadily hotter as we climbed up the glacial
coverlet. We were now beyond the latitude of my previous "farthest"
(87° 21' 22") which I had reached with the Royal Geographic Expedition
which met such a tragic fate on its return trip to England.[9]
The insect pests began to be very troublesome and I thanked the high
Gods for the green veils and mosquito-bars which made life tolerable.
A part of every man's equipment was an atomizer containing four fluid
ounces of oil-of-citronella, and a fly-swatter attached to his wrist by
a thong of reindeer sinew.[10]
I was amazed at the tropic temperature of these high latitudes. At noon
the thermometer frequently stood around 90° Fahr. in the shade and it
must be remembered that there _was_ no shade. Our thinnest garments
were none too comfortable nor were we able to say, as is usual, that
the nights were cool, for again it should be borne in mind that there
were no nights. Hour after hour the brazen disc of the sun circled
round the heavens, staring pitilessly at the moon which, strange
phenomenon! shone palely above the opposite horizon as if the two great
planets were balancing to partners in a stately astronomical dance.
At definite periods sleep was the order of the day, an enforced
regulation. During our waking hours we struggled on, at times wading
through mulch and squidge, at times sailing through seas of melted ice.
Yet, though the sun's rays were hot, there still remained the solid
pack below, too vast to be more than touched on the surface by this
fleeting summer.
Though we were surrounded by animal life it was much too warm for
hunting. In fact the very thought of such things as blubber and fur was
nauseating. Our civilized diet and clothing were better suited to our
stomachs both inside and out. But how quickly the warm polar weather
passed none knew better than I and from my place in the bow I urged my
men on until even Swank and Whinney cast reproachful glances at me over
their streaming shoulders.
"You aren't taking the Kawa to the Pole, she's taking you," they
complained.
"Mush," I replied.
A fact which was the cause of surprised comment by several members of
the expedition was that we had thus far encountered no Eskimos on our
journey. I confess that I myself was somewhat perplexed. In a country
in which game abounded it seemed strange to find no hunting parties. I
could account for this phenomenon by two courses of reasoning; either
the natives had gone south to escape the intolerable weather which we
were experiencing--for it will be remembered that these simple folk
have practically no way of combating heat--or their hunters might
possibly have fallen victims to the mistake so common to nimrods the
world over, of leading their bands into localities in which there was
no game whatever. Upon consideration the latter conclusion seemed the
more probable for it follows a great general law of humanity. Each
of my readers doubtless numbers among his acquaintance a sportsman
who makes an annual pilgrimage into inaccessible regions in search of
caribou, deer, salmon or big-horn and who invariably returns with a
tale of disappointment. "It has been a very poor year for caribou."
"There was too little water--or too much." These excuses are familiar
to any one who holds converse with the disciples of rifle and rod.
Our case was different. We were a scientific group, not occupied with
the capture of animal trophies and so we naturally saw a great deal of
game.
It is difficult for me to set down the amazing amount of interesting
live stock which flourished about us at every stage of our journey.
In the lower latitudes these were the more familiar caribou, rabbits,
wolves, and deer.
A sight I shall never forget was one which confronted us shortly after
clearing the westernmost point of Wrangel Island. This was in the
earlier stages of our journey while we still enjoyed a few hours of
restful darkness. Through the murky night I heard a low muttering sound
with an occasional note of complaint or discontent. The noise was not
single and distinct but vast and widespread as if a large area of land
had become vocal. "What do you suppose is wrong?" I asked Triplett with
whom I was keeping watch. "There's allus somethin' wrong on Wrangel,"
said that worthy imperturbably. But I could see that he was interested
for he kept his good-eye alternately on our compass and the dim bulk of
land that loomed on our quarter.
Dawn came on apace and a marvellous picture lay before us. Far into
the interior, on the snowy slopes, were millions of reindeer feeding
on the Christmas trees which do so well in this locality. The noise I
had heard was the swishing of great branches and the guttural grunts
of these picturesque mammals as they devoured their provender. Others
of my men had stolen on deck and stood silently watching. Frissell was
greatly excited.
"Who said there wasn't any Santa Claus!" he cried, and at the sound
of his voice the huge herd tossed its broad-leaved antlers and rushed
madly toward the distant horizon while Frizzie urged them on with cries
of "Now, Vixen, now, Dasher!" It was an odd but interesting scene.
The Arctic hares were not as numerous as I have seen them on my
previous northern trips and those I observed through my glasses were of
poor quality and sickly physique. Evidently the gradual dying out of
the lapland lark-spurs, which are the natural cover of the hares, has
worked havoc among these charming creatures.[11]
But now, beyond eighty-six, we had left behind us these semi-domestic
creatures and were among the truly Arctic animals, those weird denizens
of berg and floe which civilization sees only in zoological gardens or
vaudeville performances. From my station near the forepeak I swept the
horizon hourly with my glasses cataloguing the myriad species of Arctic
life and entering them in my journal with notes as to quantity,
quality and other attributes which had a bearing on the commercial or
scientific value of the type referred to. I can give no better idea
of this sportsman's paradise than by quoting a few extracts from the
volume.
INTENSIVE OPTIMISM
As long as brave deeds are recognized and heroic fortitude receives
its just due the name of Reginald Whinney will shine forth in
letters of gold. Reference is made in the text to his tragic attack
of snow-blindness on the very eve of the arrival of Dr. Traprock
(and party) at the Pole. This untoward visitation (by which we mean
Whinney's affliction, not the Traprock Expedition), would in itself
have been enough to break the heart of any ordinary man, but not the
heart of a Whinney. To such as he adversity is as the sunshine to
the flower or the flower to the bee, a new source of inspiration and
sweetness.
In the early days of his blindness he was, of course, greatly
depressed. "I am put out but not crushed" was his simple comment.
Having recourse to his typewriter he recorded that touching
paraphrase of Milton ending with the line, "They also serve who
only sit and type." Then came the magnificent "Ode to the Aurora,"
after which the sun of his vision seemed to burst through the walls
of his temporary night. Full of sparkling wit and joyous laughter
he fully earned his soubriquet of "Sunbeam-of-the-North." Even
before breakfast he was mirth personified; in the evening, he was
irrepressible. The Eskimos found in him a source of inexhaustible
wonder. To a race living far beyond the sound of a songbird his
carollings were nothing short of a miracle.
Dr. Traprock has confessed that at times his friend's gaiety was
trying. During the frightful sufferings of the return journey, for
instance, it was upsetting to face starvation and death to the
accompaniment of "I love a lassie," warbled by the stricken scientist
from the forepeak. But as the Doctor acutely remarks, "How unjust
to condemn a man who was doing the only thing left for him to do,
namely, trying to cheer us up. Moreover I knew that his optimism was
but blind. Incessant cheerfulness, when sincere, is impossible to
stand; I can enjoy it when I know that it masks a broken heart."
[Illustration: Intensive Optimism]
For instance, under date of June 18th, I find the following:
"June 18th. 86° 12' 5". Bright and fair. Going good. For two hours in
fore-noon passed three large seal schools, mainly phoca vitulina and
mitrata, probably about one thousand per school. Each group lay taking
its mid-day siesta near the open lead with sentinel seals carefully
posted at regular intervals. They maintained this position until we
were within approx. 100 yds. when they slid noiselessly into the sea
where I watched them at play for sometime, diving over and under each
other and emitting their throaty mating cry of 'Ook, ook.' Peron says
(See Mammi-feres, Livraison, Sept., 1819, p. 2) that the phoca vitulina
are monogamous but close observation of a large bull seal in the second
group convinces me that he is in error."
"June 20th. Slightly cooler, a blessed relief. More seals today
(Leopardina and Stemmatopus). Passed one group at feeding time and
watched them chase the smaller otaries into shallow ice pools where
possession of the fish was disputed by large flocks of pemmican. The
smaller fragments, otary-eyes, fins, etc., were in turn made-off with
by snow-buntings."
"June 21st. Climbed to main truck at noon and found three pemmican eggs
in crow's-nest. Must have been laid during rest period. Left them for
observation and posted order on main and jigger to leave nest strictly
alone. Whales spouting to leeward, evidently genus bone-head, in large
quantity. Memo. Report to United Corset Mfrs. and Umbrella Makers."[12]
"June 28th. Showers. Vast quantities of seals (Hirsutus) the true
fur-bearing or sack seal. Called the entire company before the mast and
warned them against shooting. Rough going today over raftered ice. Made
only six miles. Mother pemmican sitting on crow's-nest. Polar bears
becoming more numerous, also large numbers of white foxes. Disturbed
during rest period by snorting of walruses. Memo. Look up sealing-wax,
source of supply, market, etc. Another week should see us at the Pole!
Hold fast and strike hard."
The reader can imagine with what difficulty I restrained my companions
from wholesale slaughter of the thousands of friendly creatures among
whom we were making our slow but steady progress. We were individually
armed and equipped for any event which might befall us, but many
considerations urged me to be firm in this regard and my posted
notices, "No hunting or fishing under penalty of the law," were sternly
enforced. Primarily I wished to save time, knowing full well what delay
would be caused by the pursuit and what inconvenience by the capture
of any of the hulking carcasses which surrounded us. Secondly I was
anxious to conserve ammunition for a time when it might be needed. Our
own food supply was ample and it seemed wise to defer experiments with
eskimo diet until absolutely necessary.
How fortunate this caution proved will be related in its proper place.
That we should ever be thrown entirely upon our own resources naked and
stripped in this far land, seemed totally unlikely. But who knows the
design of an inscrutable providence! Not I, for one.
Two days from the Pole a tragic misfortune befell one of our little
group, none other than my faithful friend, Reginald Whinney.
He had come to me in the morning and asked for a two hours leave from
the traces to take up work which he said was more scientific, namely,
the study of the snow algæ which blossomed about us in rare profusion.
As it was my custom to let my men out of harness, two at a time, to
pursue their various specialties, I readily assented.
"Whinney, botanist and Dane, Egyptologist, on leave" was the order of
the day.
They departed in opposite directions. Scientists in general avoid each
other's company when making discoveries and these were no exception. It
was the last Whinney saw of us for many weeks.
At seven-and-a-half-bells Dane came aboard and went below to file his
data. Eight-bells sounded and still no Whinney. With my glasses I
scanned the expanse about us. Far away on our starboard bow I glimpsed
for an instant a moving black speck, lost it in the quivering lens,
found it again and held it. Was it a bear? No, it was too black. A
seal?--too tall!
In an instant I had given the order, "Cease mushing!"
"Swank, Wigmore, come with me. Triplett, you are in command."
We were off in a trice. As we drew near the distant figure I saw that
it was indeed Whinney. But what was he doing?
He was tottering about in vague circles like a man distraught. Just as
I came up to him he fell forward on his knees with a despairing cry,
covering his face with his hands. Gently holding him by the wrists, I
lifted him up; his arms dropped to his side and I knew the awful truth.
I mentioned, when Whinney left the ship, that he would see no more of
us for many weeks. It was true, for though we could see him, the poor
fellow could not see us.
"Blind! Blind!" he shrieked, sinking down in despair and beating his
head against the ice.
Again we raised him and, soothing him as best I could, I rubbed his
inflamed lids with a sharp piece of snow crust, a native cure in such
cases. But we were too late to effect a cure. Wearied by gazing at the
minute flower-forms of the algæ, dazzled by the glaring snow crystals,
my friend's eyes had fallen an easy prey to acute snow-blindness.
"Let this be a lesson to you, men," I said after we had led our patient
back to the ship. "If any man, in the future, leaves this deck without
his goggles, let him take the consequences. This expedition cannot be
allowed to develop into a game of blind man's buff."
Whinney sat whimpering on the port rail, a pathetic sight. Though I
spoke sternly I could but grieve in my heart for the tragic irony of
his fate.
Many brave adventurers have struggled and died in vain efforts to reach
the top of the world. To Reginald Whinney remains the sad distinction
of being the only man in the world who has been to the North Pole and
back without seeing it!
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 8: The trick is one I learned from an old limehouse "pug"
whom I befriended in the east-end of London. He could only show me his
gratitude by teaching me the secrets of his trade, which have served me
on many an occasion.]
[Footnote 9: The entire party on H.M.S. Daffodil, were sunk by a German
submarine off St. Jean deLuz. I escaped, having disembarked at Brigus,
N.F., in order to join my regiment at Derby, Conn.]
[Footnote 10: The Arctic mosquito differs from his southern brothers,
the common _stegomia muflans_, in that he does not strike and get away.
Like the Canadian "wingle," where he bites he burrows, and that with
such rapidity that one must be swift of stroke indeed who would escape
his attack. Within a few seconds he disappears beneath the cuticle
and dire illness is the result. It is not commonly known but I am
convinced that the Arctic variety is the carrier of the scurvy germ,
that dreaded terror of travellers. (See Windenborg's treatise "Die
Arbeiten Stegomanische und Fleibeiten von dem Nord-deutsches Landes,"
which, while making many absurd claims as to German supremacy in polar
regions, contains at the same time much solid information). T.]
[Footnote 11: The ever-watchful Canadian game commission has taken
up this matter (which vitally affects the mitten industry) and is
conducting at the Govt. Laboratory in Ottawa a series of experiments
with various hare-restorers. W.E.T.]
[Footnote 12: Since his return to New York, Dr. Traprock has formulated
a bill to be introduced at the next session of Congress. The bill
is aimed directly at the Fordney tariff-schedule, which imposes the
highest duties on whale-bone since whales were first discovered. This,
according to Dr. Traprock, is accountable for the corsetless flapperism
of today. "The higher the whale-bone the lower the corset," is his
trenchant comment.--Ed.]
Chapter V
_The last ten miles. A mental observation. We lose our magnetic
bowsprit. The Big Peg at last! "The Lady, first!" We celebrate our
arrival. I glimpse a vision._
Chapter V
July fourth, 1921.
"Eighty-nine and two tenths!" said Capt. Triplett.
"Eighty-nine and two tenths," echoed Miskin, jotting down the figures.
Our navigator lowered the astrolabe through which he had been peering
and folded up his artificial horizon. He then figured for a few moments
on the edge of the taffrail, scrupulously erasing the calculation with
a combination of saliva and sleeve before he announced in his usual
formula:
"She proves. Key-rect as hell."
I piped down the engines and ordered the company abaft. We were working
through an open lead at the time.
The moment had come for another important announcement. These were of
almost daily occurrence at this time, each stage of our journey having
been marked by the establishment of a record for ship travel. It
had therefore become my custom to call the men together as soon as our
position had been officially announced, at which time we held a sort of
business "causerie," chatted over what had been accomplished, discussed
the future plans and policy of the expedition and so on, much as is
done today in business organizations whose lack of business gives them
ample time for such recreations.
THE AVOWAL
It was not to be expected that the temperamental Swank would long
remain proof against the attractions of the beguiling Klinka maidens
and here we have evidence of him running true to form, the form in
this case being that of Klipitok, the youngest of the Mrs. Makuiks.
The scene is the sub-polar apartment of the Kryptok hunter, hewn from
the ageless ice.
Obviously a tender passage is in progress. The jaunty Swank, holding
in his hand a bunch of lapland-larkspurs, which, it should be
remarked, were completely out of season at the time, is not only
saying it with flowers but with all the practised ardor of a grade A
Romeo.
"You are the sweetest thing in the world," he whispers. "I have never
met anyone like you in all my life."
The child hears and believes.
"You are so original!" she murmurs, bending her seal-like ear.
"And you so aboriginal!"
"More!" she sighs passionately.
"Have you ever been to Niagara Falls?"
At this point, due to the rising temperature, great drops of water
began to fall from the ice-roof and a harsh command from Makuik drove
the lovers into the open air.
In justice to Mr. Swank it should be stated that all wife-wooing
was conducted with the full knowledge and consent of the husband.
Makuik's ulterior motive, doubtless, was to secure additional hunters
for his tribe. Alas, for Swank's romantically planned honeymoon, it
was doomed to end as so many do, in disappointment.
[Illustration: The Avowal]
Today, more than ever, I felt the responsibility of my position. Having
gained in assurance and poise by reason of experience at previous
meetings, my words were terse and well-chosen.
"Men," I said, "and lady" (bowing to Sausalito, who waved a tennis
shoe at me), "the end is well nigh come. The goal for which we have
labored is almost in sight. The Pole, reputed inaccessible, is at hand.
No longer the interminable leagues intervene. No longer do the long
miles stretch between us and our object. We have annihilated space--and
time!" (Cries of "Hear, Hear!")
"Men of the Traprock Expedition, tried, true and trusty Traprockians,
we have almost completed our journey, we are nearly there, the
long-sought----"
A tremendous cheer interrupted me. My companions were unable to control
themselves, and my oratorical intuition told me that it was the moment
to stop.
With a sweeping gesture toward the North, I shouted the magic
monosyllable "Mush!" and sat down.
In polar travel the last ten miles are invariably the hardest. One
is spent and exhausted. Ice conditions north of eighty-seven are
increasingly difficult. Absolutely nothing has been done by either
Canadian or United States Governments toward keeping the national
highways in condition. Raftered floes, composed of sheets of
twenty-foot ice, piled up like badly shuffled playing cards, often
directly oppose one's progress.[13]
But all things yield to an iron will. We had not come thus far to be
thwarted and our nearness to success roused me to feverish energy. As I
look back on that last day I am amazed at some of the things we did.
It has never been my habit to dodge a difficulty and true to this
principle we made straight at every barrier. There was no dodging or
deviating. Some we climbed, some we tunneled (the Kawa's masts folded
back along her deck), some we blew up, though I hesitated to resort to
this process for the practical reason of wishing to save my ice bombs,
and the more sentimental dislike of breaking the mystic silence of the
North with a sound so extraneous and artificial as that of blasting.
The northern silence has always seemed so pure and chaste that the
thought of shattering it was extremely repugnant. It was like violating
a virgin. It was, however, necessary to do this at times.[14]
Toiling, sweating, cursing, singing and shouting with excitement, we
fought our way foot by foot, mile by mile, over the rough ice-cap.
It was marvellous to see how the Kawa behaved, how magnificently
her pliant flanks adapted themselves to the jagged contours, how
intelligently and naturally she oozed over and between difficulties,
pressed in here, bulging out there, svelte, seal-like and delicious.
My office was that of general exhorter and encourager. It would never
have done for me to take the lines and do any actual pulling; the
men would have lost respect for me at once. But I was never idle for
a moment. Armed with an old riding crop, a relic of my days as M.F.H.
of the Derby Hounds, I circled about my straining comrades, shouting
encouragement and occasionally flicking them smartly on back and
buttock. They responded valiantly, though not a few black looks were
thrown at me.
At the top of every ice hurdle we stopped to rest and I issued extra
rations of alcohol plug. It was little enough to repay these gallant
chaps for their exertions and surely this was no time to play the
niggard with the "A-P" as we called it. Once refreshed, and the ice
slide ready, we coasted down the northward incline and spun merrily
across the level floe.
Late in the day, I called a halt. My comrades, somewhat exhausted
by their exertions and a little affected, perhaps, by my generous
distributions of A-P, sank on the ice near their traces or crawled up
on the Kawa's soft counter and fell asleep.
I was glad of their unconsciousness for I was very much excited. We
must be nearly there!
Before us rose a gentle snow eminence, the merest swelling in the white
plain, such as would be called a mountain in the middle west.[15]
Beyond this, unless I was mistaken, lay the Pole.
"Triplett," I said excitedly, "can you make a quick observation?"
"Sure," he observed. One glance at the low hanging sun was enough
for my old navigator. Rolling back his eyes he looked for a moment
into that reliable brain of his. I saw that he was taking a mental
observation! Marvellous man! In breathless silence, I waited.
"Eighty-nine and--nine tenths," he whispered. Sweat stood out on his
forehead and rolled in little rivers through his corrugations. This
sort of thing was plainly exhausting.
Quickly handing him an emergency plug I rose.
At that moment Warburton Plock came toward me. Though I disliked
him more than ever, he had been deferential and polite since I had
faced him down in his silly fuss over my orders, so that I listened
attentively while he spoke.
"Doctor, with your permission I'm going to unship the magnetic bowsprit
and set it here as a beacon. We must be way above the Magnetic North
by now and it is pulling us backward instead of forward."
"Very good," I answered. "Your idea has merit."
He touched his cap pleasantly and went forward. I liked the idea of
leaving a beacon or cairn. It is the proper thing among explorers. Here
and there we had run across them, an occasional pile of snow, topped
by a gin bottle enclosing a message from some previous expedition,
empty containers of various sorts whose labels were mute memorials
to the achievement of the great white race! Walker, Haig and Booth,
imperishable names these, with a solemn splendor when found on the
white register of the North.
I watched the work with interest. Plock and Miskin were busy at the
bow-chains, Swank, Wigmore and Frissell prepared the site, hewing
out rude blocks with their ice picks, while Sausalito cackled
encouragement. She was knitting a slip-on of reindeer yarn.
Suddenly a shout of dismay rose from under our forefoot. I saw Plock
and Miskin struggling with the bowsprit. Evidently they had completely
miscalculated the strength of the magnetic pull.
"Help!" cried Plock.
I sprang forward, even as the others threw down their picks and dashed
toward the bow.
We were too late.
Jammed against the side of the ship, his hands torn and bleeding Miskin
was forced to relinquish his grasp. With but the weight of Plock at its
butt end the long pole shot off at an angle across the ice.
"Leave it go!" I ordered.
But Plock was too dazed, too enraged to hear me. Fortunately at a
distance of two hundred yards his head struck a ridge of ice and he
keeled over.
Free of all hindrance, the steel stick bounded off with amazing
rapidity, leaving a faint trail, straight and true to the Magnetic
North. I watched it through my glasses until it disappeared over the
horizon to the southwest,--and there it is today, for all to see who
visit those strange regions, a record of the Traprock Expedition placed
there by a power more mysterious and greater than that of human hands.
Plock was gathered up and the company once more assembled.
This time I wasted no words. "Men, we are there. Beyond yonder eminence
is the Pole. Ten minutes, twenty at most, and then--rest!"
ABOUT TO BE CAPTURED
This picture represents what is probably the high-spot in Dr.
Traprock's absorbing narrative, namely, the moment just before the
author and his friend Swank burst from their hiding-places and
captured Ikik, the Klinka maid, who is seen crouching over the
bait which in this case was the scarlet hunting-coat worn by Dr.
Traprock during many an exciting chase, though none, we venture
to say, compared to this. Critics of this picture have said that
the coat seemed unnecessarily voluminous. In explanation it may
interest our readers to know that at meetings of the Derby Hounds,
which organization takes its origin from the ancient Epsom Hunts of
England, the M.F.H. wears the medieval hunting costume, the folds
of which cover the rider, horse and at times several of the hounds
as well. The thought of our intrepid friend Traprock thus clad in
full cry suggests an inspiring sight. He says himself with his usual
modesty, "The coat has always attracted women, but I have usually
been in it."
Better than words our illustration, snapped by Swank through the eye
of "Dr. Pease," gives an idea of the simple beauty of the Klinka
summer-furs. Though she has thrown aside her oomiak she is plainly
apprehensive. Something is in the air, she knows not what.
It was Dr. Traprock's intention to capture the maid as politely as
was consistent with success. After the diving-tackle which he has
described he had expected to deliver a conciliatory speech beginning,
"Madame, I assure you my intentions are perfectly honorable."
Makuik's arrival interrupted this program but we feel that in
justice to Dr. Traprock his plan should be known lest some of our
readers assume that he was unnecessarily rough. In the old Norman,
"Chroniques de la Noblisse," we find significant note referring to
Jean Marie Piegeroche, an early ancestor of the author. Says the
historian, "_Fort comme la mort, beau comme le soleil, et toujour
rosse mais pas trop rosse._" "Strong as death! Beautiful as the sun,
rough ... but not too rough." It is indeed the Doctor.
[Illustration: About to be Captured]
With hearty good will they sprang to their positions and we shot
forward up the gentle grade.
Exactly twelve minutes later we reached the crest and below us,
sparkling in the sunlight, stood the Pole itself.
* * * * *
How can I possibly describe the scene and the sensations of that
inspiring moment? Physically the outlook was perhaps unimportant save
for a feature that set my blood tingling while it stilled my heart in
reverence. This feature was Peary's cairn!
It was untouched, unchanged.
From the moment the object of the Traprock Expedition was announced
I had been haunted by a vague fear that some other group would head
straight for my goal, dragging with them some hapenny-tuppenny ships
model wherewith to wither my laurels.
It was not so.
Before us, a few hundred yards distant in the center of a shallow bowl
stood the rude monument of the great Commander, just as he had left
it. From the summit and flanks of the miniature mountain fluttered the
tattered ensigns he had placed there, our country's flag, the red
cross, the D.K.E. banner and the others.
The Stars and Stripes were nailed to a stout spar, evidently an extra
yard-arm or spare jigger from the Roosevelt. This mast still stood, a
graphic symbol of the Pole itself, as if the giant axis of the earth
projected beyond its surface. It was slightly out of plumb and the wood
toward the base was somewhat abraded.
But of the vandalism of late visitants there was not a trace. No picnic
baskets or discarded lily-cups marred the snowy surroundings. No other
ship, great or small, had made fast to Mother Earth's last mooring.
We rushed toward the spot in helter skelter fashion, but ten yards from
the cairn a thought, almost morbid in its chivalrousness, seized me.
I must stop this mad rush.
How?
Whipping out my Colt I fired three shots in quick succession. It was
the return-to-the-ship signal. The crowd hesitated, irresolute.
On the instant I dashed ahead and faced about.
"Gentlemen," I cried, "though thousands of miles from home, remember,
you _are_ gentlemen. The lady, first!"
Offering Sausalito my arm we climbed the slope together.
The others arrived en masse. Swank, Plock, Sloff, they were all like
children playing a game of prisoner's base, with the Pole as home. Poor
Whinney was "it."
In the excitement of the moment I had forgotten him. He was a pitiful
spectacle as he came tap-tapping his way across the ice, feeling each
step with his cane. We watched him in silence until I saw that he was
going to miss the Pole entirely and if not stopped would soon be bound
south again for an indefinite period. Tenderly Sausalito and I led him
to the cairn while her rich voice murmured comfort in his ear. He was
beside himself with emotion and hot tears kept welling from under his
goggles.
"The touch of a woman's hand!" he sobbed, as he smoothed mine with his.
Frissell's arrival was characteristic. He made the last sixty yards
between the Kawa and the Pole on a pogo stick--a new--in fact the
only--record for an event of this kind.
Second only to ourselves was the Kawa and willing hands soon hauled her
across the intervening distance and made her fast.
The great objective of my polar push had been gained and with a
reverent heart I called the men together for short but appropriate
ceremonies.
After a prayer of thanksgiving by Miskin, we sang as much of the Star
Spangled Banner as we could remember and ate a silent toast to the
memory of great explorers who had come and gone. I then made a few
appropriate remarks, outlining the progress of polar travel from Norse
days down to the present and we then proceeded to the picturesque
"planting of the flags." It was a charming picture in the amber
sunlight, not unlike the final chorus of some great operatic spectacle
in which the nations of the earth are gathered together.
Forming in a circle we marched slowly about the cairn singing the
ancient song: "Nordenskold--Nordenskold--helvig am trein," each man
planting his flag at the close of a verse, in the order named:
Traprock, U.S.A., Swank, Sons of American Revolution; Whinney, Guidon
of the Derby Fencibles (sometimes called the "Desperate Derbies");
Sausalito, Lucy Stone League; Frissell, Dutch Treat Club of New York;
Plock, Explorers Union; Miskin, National Geographic Society; Triplett,
New Bedford Chamber of Commerce; Sloff, Ass. Astronomers of America;
Wigmore, Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities;
Dane, Egypt.
With the cairn thus gaily decorated and the Kawa's full alphabet of
signal flags flying fore and aft spelling the word "Victory," the
formal ceremonies were over and I gave the order for complete rest,
relaxation and enjoyment.
How thoroughly these instructions were carried out may well be
imagined. Three days' rations of every sort were dragged from the
hold and spread about us. Without further urging all hands fell to.
Every man had five A-P's and a bountiful supply of potted ham, herring
and salt codfish.[16] This somewhat arid diet was washed down with
copious draughts of melted snow thickened with A-P, and the celebration
soon attained a terrific muzzle velocity. Songs echoed across the
surrounding plain, merry tales were passed about, tales which brought
a dull glow to Sausalito's cheeks and caused old Triplett to slap his
thigh with delight.
Frissell was a host in himself. He performed tricks of magic,
imitations and feats of acrobatics and ventriloquism, appearing
successively in various costumes from his inexhaustible supply. The
quiet Miskin disclosed an unsuspected social gift and lured us into
guessing games.
"What is the distance from Bremen to Hong Kong?"
We were staggered. Miskin, from the store of his librarian experience,
knew the answer. It was dull, but helped to keep the others sober for a
few extra hours.
The three days' rations lasted, I think, about one full 24-hour day.
A single unpleasant incident marred the close of the entertainment.
Plock, who was enormously exhilarated, crawled toward me and pointed
toward the D.K.E. flag above us.
"D.K.E. song," he said thickly.
I eyed him coldly.
"I can only sing it with a Brother."
To my disgust he stretched out a very dirty hand, and gave me the grip!
"Mew Chapter," he murmured.
It was revolting. That it should be Plock of all others!
We did the "Band of Brothers" together--my oath compelled it--but I
have never voiced its loving sentiments so half-heartedly.
Quiet fell at last. So did most of my companions. One by one they
toppled over. Whinney was the last to go. It is said that the loss
of one function strengthens another and I suppose that the absence
of eyesight gave him staying power. But he finally succumbed,
smiling happily and crooning to himself--"I don't no' whish is, m' I
blin'-drunk or drunk-blin'"; and he was gone.
My last memory is of Frissell saying "my next imitation" and then
playing "taps" on a mouth organ. I knew the impossibility of competing
with a parlor entertainer. Nothing will quiet such chaps but a dead
audience. So I rolled over, and slept the sleep of a tired but happy
explorer.
* * * * *
What awakened me I cannot say, but I am sure that it was something
unusual, for my awakening was not gradual or difficult. It was the same
quick instant leap to consciousness as that which rouses the suburban
wife when she leans across the interim between the twin beds and
whispers tensely to her husband, "Horace, someone is trying to get into
the dining-room window!"
SOMETHING NEW IN DRAMATICS
A happy thought in the formation of the personnel of the Expedition
was the inclusion of Frissell, the professional entertainer, who is
here shown playing a leading part in the amateur theatricals which
it was his delight to organize. The scene chosen for illustration is
the famous shipping episode from "The Taming of the Shrew." Reginald
Swank, who is no mean dramatic critic, tells us that Frissell's
"Petruchio" was a spirited performance, while Snak's "Katharine"
rivalled Ada Rehan at her best. The nautical background added a novel
touch to the somewhat hackneyed vehicle and it is safe to say that
Shakespeare is permanently established among the Klinka and Kryptok
tribes.
Not content with the success of this production, Frissell plans to
bring to Broadway a newly organized company, "The Polar Players."
They will appear in repertoire while the B and C companies tour
the provinces. The Winter Garden has already been engaged for the
venture, Al Jolson obligingly shifting to the Metropolitan Opera
House. Tickets for the première of this interesting novelty, which is
set for November 1st, may be had by application to any of the well
known speculators. Mr. Frissell has already shown photographs of some
of his best scenes to prominent professional critics. A few sample
opinions may be of interest.
George Jean Nathan: "Foreign and therefore good."
Heywood Broun: "Lacking in background; we like it."
Al Woods: "Niftik."
Dorothy Parker: "I hate actors, but these people are different."
Frederick O'Brien: "Taupo aloha che."
The Literary Digest: "Better than the average and more average than
the best."
David Belasco: "All to the spot-light."
Bernard Shaw: "They go further back than Methusaleh."
[Illustration: Something New in Dramatics]
I suddenly found myself sitting bolt upright, straining my ears through
the lightness.
What was it?
What uncanny influence had snatched me bodily out of the depths of
stupor?
All about me lay my companions. I counted them dazedly. Triplett,
Sausalito, Swank,--yes, they were all there, not one missing.
"It was nothing" I thought, and stretched myself, preparatory to
replacing my aching head in its original position.
And then my hair literally rose on that same head and a creeping chill
crept up my spine.
Close at hand, just back of me, rose a soft, exquisite, purling sound,
the sound of a woman's laughter! Whirling about I caught a fleeting
glimpse of her.
It was just a flash. She was peering over the edge of the cairn. The
instant my eyes met hers I knew that I had seen the most beautiful
woman in the world!
Leaping silently to my feet, for I did not wish to waken my comrades,
I raced toward the cairn. As I rounded the curve I heard again that
silvery laughter, spiced, I thought, with a note of mockery.
"One second, my beauty!" I muttered, "and I shall have you!" Remember,
I had been for months in the solitudes. My blood pounded in my temples.
Sweeping gracefully around the cairn I arrived on the opposite side.
Desolate and empty, the ice bowl curved to its rim.
Not a living soul in sight.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 13: The only highway comparable to the above, in my
experience, is the main street of Portchester, N.Y., which has been
torn up since the memory of man. Some of the rocks in the middle of
this thoroughfare are of volcanic origin. The detours are even worse.]
[Footnote 14: The explosive used is a development of Whinney's along
suggestions made by me. I am not at liberty to give the chemical
formula, but its lines of force are bi-lateral instead of perpendicular
as is the case with lyddite and the other nitroglycerine derivatives.
To any one especially interested in ice blasting I shall be pleased to
furnish additional information. W.E.T.]
[Footnote 15: The lowest mountain in the world is Mt. Clemens, Mich.,
which has an altitude of 6 ft. above lake level. I once climbed it on
crutches. W.E.T.]
[Footnote 16: These compact and easily carried food stuffs formed a
large part of our store. With the addition of a little water they
increase greatly in bulk and nutritive value. The idea came to me when
stranded for two weeks in the Dry Tortugas, during which time I lived
entirely on an old carriage sponge which I found on the beach. W.E.T.]
Chapter VI
_Fatal procrastination. Our one-dimensional position. An
extraordinary ornithological display. I confide in Swank. His plan. I
capture my vision. The Klinkas. An embarrassing incident._