_Journey from Detroit to Chicago—Thrashing Machine—Face
of the Country in Michigan—Prairie Hen—White Pigeon
Prairie—Travelling Party—La Porte—Cooking Breakfast—Jaded
Horses—Thunder Storm—Hovel on the Shore of Lake Michigan—Face
of the Country—Notices of Nature—Chicago—Indian
Treaty—Horse-racing—Intoxication—Fair—Occurrences at Chicago._
On the 13th September, I left Detroit, early in the morning, in a stage
for Niles, which was drawn by four horses, and well filled with
passengers. We breakfasted at the distance of twelve miles, the hotel
being a solitary house, the name of which has escaped my memory.
Here I examined a thrashing-machine, worked by four horses, attached to
the ends of two rough poles moving two small horizontal wheels, a few
inches from the ground, round one of which was a leather belt moving in
a wood case, and connected with the drum or beater placed in the barn.
The machinery in the barn consisted simply of a beater, without rollers,
shaker, or fan. The board over which the grain slides to the beaters,
had a few upright spikes, which formed the only detaining power to the
grain while passing the beaters. This machine would not cost more than
L.8 sterling, but its imperfections in shaking and fanning, as well as
in beating out the grain, which I discovered on examination, render the
saving of first-cost injudicious.
Our roads, for the first stage or two, were very bad, and perhaps
affected the passengers, eight in number, who did not exchange
half-a-dozen words during the first day. In course of the second day, a
few short questions were put and answered, and on our arrival at Niles,
on the evening of the third day, nothing like familiar intercourse had
taken place.
Niles is a small place on the river St Josephs, and said to be twelve or
fourteen miles from Lake Michigan. In our route from Detroit, we had
passed through the territory of Michigan, in a south-westerly direction,
crossing most of the rivers, near their source, which flow into Lakes
Erie and Michigan; and I experienced considerable disappointment at the
general aspect of the country, which, with the exception of about
twenty-five miles next to Detroit, was found to consist of oak openings.
The soil is chiefly sand, and exhibits few marks of fertility. The trees
are stunted oaks, of about thirty feet in height, and so thinly
scattered, that a man may frequently clear an acre in a day. The surface
is gently undulating, and, from the thinness of the trees, and frequency
of streams, lakes, and fairies, highly picturesque. The lakes sometimes
assume the character of marshes, and many of them contained small
eminences, or islands, covered thickly with trees of a different species
from those growing on another, at a few yards distant, or on the margin
of the marsh. The district is still very thinly settled; and in passing
along, I wondered what had become of all the people who of late years
have been pouring into Michigan from the eastern states, forgetting the
extent of territory, and that it has become the common route for
settlers moving to the fertile and extensive tracts lying to the south
and west of Lake Michigan. The houses, with the exception of those in
villages, are mere log-huts.
We breakfasted at White Pigeon, on the third morning of our journey, at
a well-regulated hotel, where some broiled ruffed grouse, called, in the
language of the country, prairie-hen, was presented at table, and in
praise of which, some of our taciturn fellow-passengers became
loquacious. The particulars of the discussion may have been highly
valuable, but I was too busily employed in displaying my opinions by
actions, to note down the conversation.
White Pigeon is a small pretty village, composed of well-painted
frame-houses, and in neatness and apparent comfort resembling some of
the residences in New England. It is situated on the skirts of White
Pigeon prairie, one of the most beautiful and fertile prairies in
Michigan, and to which, perhaps, the whole territory is indebted for
much of its celebrity.
White Pigeon prairie is an interesting spot to those who have long
looked on the interminable forests and small clearances of Canada, being
a level surface of many miles extent, thickly interspersed with good
farm-houses and barns. To me the change was truly gratifying, and gave
rise to a thousand associations connected with other parts of the world.
An old farmer from New England, on his way to join a son in Illinois,
could not contain himself, and exclaimed,—“Surely this must have been
the place where Adam and Eve resided.”
On examining the soil of White Pigeon prairie, I found it composed of
black gritty sand, thickly interspersed with glittering particles of
spar. The inclosures were large, and without ridges. The crops had been
gathered, with the exception of Indian corn, which seemed good. The
weeds growing on the surface were of no great strength, amongst which
were two kinds of grass. I did not observe sown grasses or clovers, and
the latter does not grow naturally. It is said many English farmers are
settled on White Pigeon prairie, who have good thrashing-machines. There
is a small prairie to the east of White Pigeon, and a large one to the
west, through both of which we passed. These prairies do not seem fully
occupied, and the land is said to sell at from $3 to $6 per acre,
government price being $1¼.
The ruffed grouse, or prairie-hen, abounds on White Pigeon and the
adjoining prairies, to which some gentlemen resort for the purpose of
shooting. This bird resembles in colour the female pheasant of Britain,
and the black-cock in size and shape.
While walking in the garden of the hotel at White Pigeon, the experiment
I wished my friend to try in the Huron tract at Goderich, was made on
myself. A wasp stung me on the eyelid, and did not cause much pain, but
I cannot draw any inference from this regarding the properties of the
American wasp, as a sting from such insects in Britain did not create
inflammation at any period of my life.
At Niles we changed our stage-coach for an open waggon drawn by four
horses, which was the first time a regular stage had passed from Niles
to Chicago, the mail having hitherto been carried on horseback. The
waggon and horses were to carry us through all the way, as proper posts
and relays had not been established on the road. We breakfasted before
setting out, and a guide was sent with our driver.
Our travelling-party was somewhat changed from that which had come from
Detroit. Three of our original passengers remained; one an Englishman,
Mr L——, who had been twelve months in the western states, and now on his
way back, after an excursion to the southern and eastern states of the
Union, was accompanied by Mr D——, a young gentleman, who, from his
pronunciation of the English language, I imagined from Germany; the
third was W——, from Detroit, an officer in the United States army, and
the most prim individual I encountered in the course of my travels. He
seemed as if carrying the dignity and honour of the whole army on his
shoulders, and I could not help remarking how very repulsive he was to
his countrymen who ventured to address him. America may be the land of
liberty and equality, but, personally, no one seemed equal to Major W——,
and certainly liberty could not be taken with him. The rest of our
passengers consisted of an old revolutionary soldier and his wife, on
their way to join a son settled in Illinois, a Michigan farmer, myself,
waggoner, and guide.
The farmer was originally from York State, now settled on Nottawa Sepee
prairie, on St Joseph’s river, and proceeding to Chicago, where an
adjustment of Indian claims was taking place, in the hope of obtaining
recompense for losses. I had not an opportunity of learning the result
of his mission, but from his own statement, it did not merit success. He
told us he intended to have _made_ a great deal of pork this season, but
on collecting his pigs from the woods, where they had run for five
months, he could only number thirty-five instead of fifty-five. The
Indians had been seen hunting pigs, and he expected to get payment from
the government agent for twenty of his which were missing. In this
manner the poor Indian is preyed on by his white frontier brother, and
made pay for the ravages of disease, wild animals, and perhaps the
dishonesty of white men.
In our first day’s journey we dined at La Porte, a small rising place,
situated in a rich prairie country, and on the margin of Clear Lake, a
beautiful and picturesque sheet of water, said to be eight miles from
Lake Michigan. We stopped for the night at Clavering. The house was a
mean log erection of two apartments, one of which contained five beds,
in which nine travellers huddled together, and the other apartment, from
the number of the family, must have been equally well filled.
Our party collected at daybreak, when we set out on our journey, the
poor horses, not having got any thing but hay—oats, or Indian corn, were
not to be had. The road, leading through forests, was so heavy, that the
poor animals could not go beyond a slow walk, and I proceeded forward,
in company with the Nottawa Sepee farmer, with a view of ordering
breakfast for the party.
On reaching a house, we were told it would be some time before breakfast
could be prepared, as we had not been expected. The inmates of the house
consisted of a female and her two young daughters, whom the farmer and I
assisted in preparing wood for cooking. A kettle and two frying-pans
were put on the fire, and two others over some ashes, removed from the
general mass by means of a shovel, and placed on the hearth. Into one of
these pans some small loaves were placed, which had been prepared
beforehand, and covered with a lid, on which hot ashes were placed; and
in the other, batter-cakes, called flap-cakes, were prepared. In one of
the frying-pans on the fire bacon was dressed, and in the other
potatoes; so, in less than half-an-hour, a breakfast of the best the
house could afford was prepared.
The horses again fared poorly, getting a few ears of green Indian corn,
collected from the field, and we were told oats would be obtained at the
end of six or seven miles. We accordingly found this to be the case, a
small feed for each was granted, and a supply to carry with us denied.
After breakfasting, a French Canadian from the Lower Province, engaged
in trading with the Indians, joined us; and for five or six miles,
before reaching Lake Michigan, the road was through undulating oak
openings of loose heavy sand, over which I walked. We reached the lake
to the west of its most southerly point, and distinctly saw the shore
running north on each side of us. The beach along which our road lay was
so soft, that almost all the party walked to ease the horses, who showed
unequivocal symptoms of distress. It was now about nightfall, and our
guide from Niles, who had carried the mail over the country, assured us
we were twenty-eight miles from the nearest house. It appeared to me
doubtful if the tired animals could accomplish the journey under any
circumstances, and hopeless to think of them doing so with all the
passengers in the waggon. I therefore proposed to walk the distance, and
set out with such a view by myself; but reflecting that I was altogether
unacquainted with the country, and might pass the resting-place without
noticing it, I left the shores of the lake, and botanized on the sand
hills until I could no longer distinguish plants.
On returning to the waggon, the party were all reseated, with the
exception of the Nottawa Sepee farmer and Indian trader, and I could not
refrain from remarking the want of feeling evinced by some of the
gentlemen in oppressing the horses, then moving at the rate of three
miles an hour, dead to the whip, and occasionally coaxed on with water
in a pail. The evening was agreeably cool, the moon and aurora borealis
shone in splendour, and the ripples of the lake, and the wheels of the
waggon, passed without noise on the smooth beach. By and by, the sound
of distant thunder was heard rolling—on the waters flashes of lightning
could be distinguished, and at length the clouds from which both
proceeded came directly over our heads, accompanied by torrents of rain.
At this time the farmer and trader also betook themselves to the waggon,
and I continued to walk on foot. It is impossible for me to convey in
words a correct impression of our situation. Peal after peal of thunder
followed each other for two successive hours. The lightning was so
vivid, that every flash deprived me of vision for a few seconds, and,
unable to see the way, I laid hold of the waggon with one hand. The
horses seemed unwilling to proceed, and the guide was mounted on one of
the leaders to urge them along. At this time the wind had sprung up, and
the rain fell in such torrents, that, on turning my back to the storm, I
distinctly felt water running in streams on the surface of my skin.
The horses at length stood still—no means could make them move; and all
the passengers, with exception of the old soldier and his wife,
descended from the waggon. Five of us, Mr L——, Mr D——, the farmer,
trader, and myself, resolved to make the best of our way on foot, and
the others remained with the waggon. The gentlemen having had cloaks and
umbrellas to protect them from the rain while in the waggon, were
comparatively dry. The moon had set, and fortunately the night cleared
up at the time of commencing our walk. Mr L——, who was a tall athletic
person, in the prime of life, led the way at an exterminating pace over
the soft sand, followed by the farmer and others. It soon became evident
to me, that no frame could last at the rate we were going. Mr D—— and
the trader dropped astern, the former gave place to me, and at length Mr
L—— proposed to breathe on the trunk of a tree. Mr L——’s proposal was
most agreeable to me, having walked ten hours in course of the day
before setting out with Mr L——; and I afterwards heard the farmer say,
in conversation, that had it not been for the honour of his country, he
would not have continued to walk with the Europeans. Mr D—— and the
trader had not been seen for an hour before. We shouted to them in vain,
and at the end of ten minutes continued the journey at our former pace.
When resting a second time, Mr D—— and the trader passed us, both
mounted on one horse, which they obtained from an Indian known to the
trader.
At three in the morning, we observed a light, which, on approaching, was
discovered to be a lantern, with which Mr D—— was gathering potatoes in
a garden with his fingers, as the only means of removing them from the
earth, and the trader was bawling in a hovel for whisky. On entering the
hovel, two young girls and a boy, half Indian and half something else,
were reposing in a corner, each wrapped in a blanket; and on seeing so
many strangers, they all rose hurriedly and left the house. Some oats
were sent off by the Indian who owned the horse for the waggon horses,
and a small piece of bread and some whisky were obtained for ourselves.
Mr L—— and Mr D—— soon took possession of the corner and blankets, which
the girls had abandoned; and I was amused to see these individuals, who
had evidently been long familiar with the luxuries and refinements of
European society, accommodate themselves to circumstances, and take
possession of a sleeping place, which, in cleanness and softness, was
inferior to the bed of many an East Lothian pig. The farmer and trader
soon followed their example, and I was left standing by the fire drying
my shirt, after accomplishing which, I stretched myself alongside of the
trader, and was asleep in an instant.
At five the waggon and the rest of the party arrived, and at seven we
again set out, and reached Chicago in time for a late breakfast; the
countenances of all bore evidence of the fatigues of the preceding
evening, and my limbs felt them. The old soldier had drunk too freely on
his arrival at and departure from the hut, and his ravings while under
intoxication in praise of republicanism and General Jackson, as well as
in censure of England, were amusingly absurd. His wife seemed to feel
for her husband’s conduct, and the influence both of the driver and
Major W—— was scarcely sufficient to keep him in order.
Soon after leaving Niles, we crossed by a ford the river St Joseph’s,
which seemed to me to contain rather more water than the largest sized
rivers in Britain. For miles on both sides, the country is uninhabited,
and seems to combine the features of forest oak openings and prairie,
the trees being small, thin, and standing in groups, so as to produce
the best effect, often reminding me of the finest English parks. Six or
seven miles from St Joseph’s river, the prairie country commences, and
continues with little intermission to the westward as far as the country
has been explored. On the southern margin of Lake Michigan, there is a
range of sand hills, from 100 to 200 feet in height, apparently formed
by the drifting of sand from the beach, and the same character is
maintained up the west side of the lake, although the elevations are
quite inconsiderable.
The country from the river St Joseph’s, round the south side of Lake
Michigan, with exception of a small spot, belonged, at the time of my
visit, to the Pottowatamy tribe of Indians. This tract, extending to
about 6,000,000 of acres, was sold by the Pottowatamys to the United
States Government a few days after I passed over it, and is now in the
market.
The agriculture of the country from Niles to Chicago is limited to a few
prairies in the vicinity of La Porte, on which wheat and Indian corn are
cultivated in the most primitive manner. Here, as in the western part of
Canada, the farmers seemed contented to live. There were no barns seen
any where; and at Clavering the wheat was thrashed in the open air, on
the bare earth, and the fanners were standing covered with a little
straw. The Indian corn was still growing. In one instance, I observed
wheat newly sown, and a field of this crop above ground. The crop of the
year was in small, ill-built, unthatched ricks, resembling in size and
shape the hay cokes of Scotland. At Clavering I examined the prairie
wheat crop, and found the ears small in size, the straw short and
slender; the grain was particularly small, but of fine colour and
appearance.
The wood is chiefly oak. The summits of sand hills on Lake Michigan are
crowned with a few stunted pines, a tree which, I believe, is not to be
found farther to the south of this point, or west of the grand river in
Upper Canada, although abounding in some districts on the north-west
shores of Lake Michigan. Nearer the beach, and at a lower level than the
pines, dwarfish poplars grow, two species of bent grass, and a thistle.
A few vines were also on the sand hills, and when not growing in very
exposed situations, were lying on the banks as if trained on a wall; but
after a diligent search, I could not discover fruit on them. The sand
hills were thinly clothed with vegetation, and every plant, with
exception of the grasses, seemed stunted like those exposed to the spray
and storms of a British ocean. In this part of the country, I made a
large addition to my collection of seeds, which were wrapped in small
folds of paper, dried in my pocket, and afterwards transferred to my
knapsack.
I observed no animals that appeared new to me. In some parts squirrels
were particularly numerous, and exclusively of the black variety.
While walking on the sand hills on the south point of Lake Michigan, I
observed a small hawk pursue a bat, similar to that of Britain. The bat
dexterously avoided three swoops of the hawk, seemingly without much
exertion or concern, and both were hid from vision behind a bank in the
fourth attack. I had frequent opportunities of seeing birds of prey
attack their game while in America, without witnessing a successful
effort.
Chicago is situated on Lake Michigan, at the confluence of Chicago
river, a small stream, affording the advantages of a canal to the
inhabitants for a limited distance. At the mouth of the river is
Fort-Dearborn, garrisoned by a few soldiers, and one of the places which
has been long held to keep the Indian tribes in awe. The entrance from
the lake to the river is much obstructed by sand banks, and an attempt
is making to improve the navigation.
Chicago consists of about 150 wood houses, placed irregularly on both
sides of the river, over which there is a bridge. This is already a
place of considerable trade, supplying salt, tea, coffee, sugar, and
clothing to a large tract of country to the south and west; and when
connected with the navigable point of the river Illinois, by a canal or
railway, cannot fail of rising to importance. Almost every person I met
regarded Chicago as the germ of an immense city, and speculators have
already bought up, at high prices, all the building-ground in the
neighbourhood. Chicago will, in all probability, attain considerable
size, but its situation is not so favourable to growth as many other
places in the Union. The country south and west of Chicago has a channel
of trade to the south by New Orleans; and the navigation from Buffalo by
Lake Huron is of such length, that perhaps the produce of the country to
the south of Chicago will find an outlet to Lake Erie by the waters of
the rivers Wabash and Mamee. A canal has been in progress for three
years, connecting the Wabash and Mamee, which flows into the west end of
Lake Erie; and there can be little difficulty in connecting the Wabash
with the Illinois, which, if effected, will materially check the rise of
Chicago.
At the time of visiting Chicago, there was a treaty in progress with the
Pottowatamy Indians, and it was supposed nearly 8000 Indians, of all
ages, belonging to different tribes, were assembled on the occasion, a
treaty being considered a kind of general merry-making, which lasts
several weeks; and animal food, on the present occasion, was served out
by the States government. The forests and prairies in the neighbourhood
were studded with the tents of the Indians, and numerous herds of horses
were browsing in all directions. Some of the tribes could be
distinguished by their peculiarities. The Sauks and Foxes have their
heads shaven, with exception of a small tuft of hair on the crown. Their
garments seemed to vary according to their circumstances, and not to
their tribes. The dress of the squaws was generally blue cloth, and
sometimes printed cotton, with ornaments in the ears, and occasionally
also in the nose. The men generally wore white blankets, with a piece of
blue cloth round their loins; and the poorest of them had no other
covering, their arms, legs, and feet being exposed in nakedness. A few
of them had cotton trowsers, and jackets of rich patterns, loosely
flowing, secured with a sash; boots, and handkerchiefs or bands of
cotton, with feathers in the head-dress, their appearance reminding me
of the costume of some Asiatic nations. The men are generally without
beards, but in one or two instances I saw tufts of hair on the chin,
which seemed to be kept with care, and this was conspicuously so amongst
the well-dressed portion. The countenances of both sexes were frequently
bedaubed with paint of different kinds, including red, blue, and white.
In the forenoon of my arrival, a council had been held, without
transacting business, and a race took place in the afternoon. The
spectators were Indians, with exception of a few travellers, and their
small number showed the affair excited little interest. The riders had a
piece of blue cloth round their loins, and in other respects were
perfectly naked, having the whole of their bodies painted of different
hues. The race-horses had not undergone a course of training. They were
of ordinary breed, and, according to British taste at least, small,
coarse, and ill-formed.
Intoxication prevailed to a great extent amongst both sexes. When under
the influence of liquor, they did not seem unusually loquacious, and
their chief delight consisted in venting low shouts, resembling
something between the mewing of a cat and the barking of a dog. I
observed a powerful Indian, stupified with spirits, attempting to gain
admittance to a shop, vociferating in a noisy manner; as soon as he
reached the highest step, a white man gave him a push, and he fell with
violence on his back in a pool of mud. He repeated his attempt five or
six times in my sight, and was uniformly thrown back in the same manner.
Male and female Indians were looking on and enjoying the sufferings of
their countryman. The inhuman wretch who thus tortured the poor Indian,
was the vender of the poison which had deprived him of his senses.
Besides the assemblage of Indians, there seemed to be a general fair at
Chicago. Large waggons drawn by six or eight oxen, and heavily laden
with merchandise, were arriving from, and departing to, distant parts of
the country. There was also a kind of horse-market, and I had much
conversation with a dealer from the State of New York, having serious
intentions of purchasing a horse to carry me to the banks of the
Mississippi, if one could have been got suitable for the journey. The
dealers attempted to palm colts on me for aged horses, and seemed versed
in all the trickery which is practised by their profession in Britain.
A person showed me a model of a thrashing-machine and a churn, for which
he was taking orders, and said he furnished the former at $30, or L.6,
10s. sterling. There were a number of French descendants, who are
engaged in the fur-trade, met in Chicago, for the purpose of settling
accounts with the Indians. They were dressed in broadcloths and boots,
and boarded in the hotels. They are a swarthy scowling race, evidently
tinged with Indian blood, speaking the French and English languages
fluently, and much addicted to swearing and whisky.
The hotel at which our party was set down, was so disagreeably crowded,
that the landlord could not positively promise beds, although he would
do every thing in his power to accommodate us. The house was dirty in
the extreme, and confusion reigned throughout, which the extraordinary
circumstances of the village went far to extenuate. I contrived,
however, to get on pretty well, having by this time learned to serve
myself in many things, carrying water for washing, drying my shirt,
wetted by the rain of the preceding evening, and brushing my shoes. The
table was amply stored with substantial provisions, to which justice was
done by the guests, although indifferently cooked, and still more so
served up.
When bed-time arrived, the landlord showed me to an apartment about ten
feet square, in which there were two small beds already occupied,
assigning me in a corner a dirty pallet, which had evidently been
recently used, and was lying in a state of confusion. Undressing for the
night had become a simple proceeding, and consisted in throwing off
shoes, neckcloth, coat, and vest, the two latter being invariably used
to aid the pillow, and I had long dispensed with a nightcap. I was awoke
from a sound sleep towards morning, by an angry voice uttering horrid
imprecations, accompanied by a demand for the bed I occupied. A lighted
candle, which the individual held in his hand, showed him to be a French
trader, accompanied by a friend, and as I looked on them for some time
in silence, their audacity and brutality of speech increased. At length
I lifted my head from the pillow, leant on my elbow, and with a steady
gaze, and the calmest tone of voice, said,—“Who are you that address me
in such language?” The countenance of the angry individual fell, and he
subduedly asked to share my bed. Wishing to put him to a farther trial,
I again replied,—“If you will ask the favour in a proper manner, I shall
give you an answer.” He was now either ashamed of himself, or felt his
pride hurt, and both left the room without uttering a word. Next
morning, the individuals who slept in the apartment with me, discovered
that the intruders had acted most improperly towards them, and the most
noisy of the two entered familiarly into conversation with me during
breakfast, without alluding to the occurrence of the preceding evening.
On arriving at Chicago, I learned there was a mail-waggon which passed
down the Illinois river once a-week, and had set off a few hours before,
and was the only conveyance in that direction. I could not think of
remaining a week waiting for the waggon, and not finding a suitable
horse to purchase, I determined on walking. The passengers who had
travelled together from Niles, lodged at the same hotel, with exception
of the Major, who perhaps found shelter in the fort. The old soldier
seemed to have commenced a regular fuddling fit; and his wife, who was a
prudent sensible person, was in great distress, being thirty miles from
the residence of her son, and her husband quite uncontrollable. Finding
the destination of the old lady lay no great way out of my route, I
hired a waggon to take the old people and myself there next morning, the
soldier having been easily coaxed into the arrangement, and for which
his wife expressed thankfulness. On the waggon reaching the door of the
hotel, its owner, who was of French descent, insisted that he had only
bargained to convey two, and that unless he received $2 from me, I must
remain behind. After a noisy altercation on both sides, he offered to
accept of $1 extra, but feeling indignant at his attempt at imposition,
I shouldered my knapsack, and trudged off on foot. I have often looked
back with regret on this proceeding, as it was improper to leave the old
lady without seeing her fairly on her journey, and silly to have
exchanged high words with an individual who would altogether disregard
them. This was the only instance which occurred to me in the States, of
experiencing an attempt at imposition, or which was calculated to ruffle
my temper.