_Journey from York to Coburg—Mail Waggon—Mr Somerville—Agricultural
Notices—Clay Kneading—Female Helps seating themselves
at Table—Port Hope—Coburg—Agricultural Notices—Fast
Eating—Excursion to Peterborough—School-fellow—Peterborough—Rice
Lake—Notices of Nature and Agriculture—Settlers—High Price of
Land—Injudicious Settlement—Bay of Quinte—Indian Settlement—Canada
Thistle—Kingston—Storekeepers and Store-pay—Grasshoppers—Lake of the
Thousand Isles—River St Lawrence._
My friend D—— and I left York at 5 P.M., on 16th July, by the Kingston
mail, an open waggon, drawn by two horses, and reached Windsor, a
distance of twenty-nine miles, at two in the morning. The roads were
worse than any yet travelled on, and a driver stopped two hours at a
hotel notwithstanding our anxiety to get him away.
The soil, for ten miles down the margin of the lake, is poor sand,
covered with pines, until passing some ridges, where there are good
farms; here night shut out the face of nature.
From Windsor, in the township of Whitby, we set out on foot, after
breakfast, to visit Mr W——, to whom we had a letter, and found him
suffering under ague at Mr Somerville’s. I was anxious to see Mr
Somerville, from having heard his letter, which appeared sometime before
in the _Edinburgh Quarterly Journal of Agriculture_, censured by my
lately-imported countrymen, and his establishment and prospects
ridiculed. He received us kindly, and after walking over the farm, we
returned in time for an early dinner.
On entering the house it was necessary to go one by one, as the door
opened so as to close up the passage leading to the kitchen, through
which we entered to the sitting-room, where we dined. Both apartments
were small, clean, and crowded with old-country furniture. The house was
a log one, but a better was soon to be built. The dinner consisted of
fried pork, the standard dish of the country, eggs, new potatoes, and
pancakes. Homely as the fare may be considered, it has seldom been my
fate to rise from table more gratified with a repast, each dish being
excellent in its kind, and the entertainment seasoned with the good
sense, contentment, and manly feeling, of our host. Miss Somerville,
like all my countrywomen met in Canada, was active and in good spirits;
but her piano had remained untouched in the corner of the room since her
arrival in the country, the churn being now her favourite instrument.
Mr Somerville told me his letter was not written with a view to
publication, and it appeared in the Quarterly Journal without his
knowledge. Under these circumstances it would perhaps be unreasonable to
hold him responsible for its contents. Not having read the letter since
the time of publication, I cannot say if it is a just representation of
his situation, but I can testify to the good quality of his soil, which
he says no visitor ever examined minutely but myself. His pasture-grass
was truly excellent; wheat and oats of medium quality; potatoes and
Indian corn well cultivated, and promising crops. He had let twenty
acres of forest land to clear and fence, at $12 per acre, which he says
is the common cash price of the country. Labourers have difficulty in
getting employment during winter; and on the morning of our arrival Mr
Somerville engaged a first-rate hand for his aguish friend at $80 per
annum, and ordinary people may be had for $72; wages paid in cash. Boys
fit for farm work, and women servants, get $4 a-month. Farms in the
township, two-thirds cleared, with suitable buildings, may be had for
$12 cash, and $16 credit. Bricks are $5 per thousand.
The soil of Whitby is rich, and not much inferior to that around
Newmarket, being free loam, and occasionally approaching to sand. The
vegetable mould in Mr Somerville’s forest was five inches deep.
Immediately after dinner we joined a waggon, by appointment, on the
Coburg road, and by which we travelled to the Darlington hotel in the
village of Bowmanville, passing over a poor sandy soil, of which the
township of Darlington seems to consist.
On our journey we saw two oxen employed in walking round a pit, kneading
clay for brick-making, which appeared cruelty, and wasteful of animal
labour, the poor animals walking up to the bellies in mud, with erect
tails and extended tongues. The common mode of preparing clay being with
a tree drawn by a horse or ox round a pivot, the lopped branches
kneading the clay. An elm-tree, twenty feet in height, was growing from
the heart of one of rotten button-wood, ten feet from the ground. A
plantation of hops, in Whitby, was luxuriant and healthy.
On stepping out of the waggon at Bowmanville, we walked over a farm
which I had been requested to value for a friend, and we sprung a
woodcock in a wheat-field, a bird that is said to breed regularly in the
district. Woodpeckers, robins, and blackbirds, of the country, were
devouring cherries so greedily, that a gun was fired at them to little
purpose every five minutes. Two wrens were seen in Whitby similar to
those of Britain.
In the United States and Canada tea and coffee are not prepared or
poured out by travellers, but by the landlady or a female help. In no
part of the United States did a female help, at a hotel, seat herself
during meals; and I observed the practice only upon one occasion in a
private house. The maid-servant at Bowmanville seated herself during tea
in a corner of the room, and the like occurrence took place at Newmarket
during supper. In Britain servants stand while assisting at table, and
they also do so in Canada; the difference of attitude taking place when
their services are not required. For my own part, I would much rather
see a young waiting-maid seated, when not required, than standing
perhaps painfully erect; and, in many instances, when taking tea or
coffee, during my tour, I put it in the option of the helps to leave the
room, which they generally did. There seems no general rule for
attitude, as inferring respect. In some countries attendants almost
humble themselves in the dust in presence of employers, and in others
they are required to carry themselves erect.
We left Bowmanville at seven in the morning, by the mail-stage, which
had taken fourteen hours to come forty-three miles; and my friend left
my only thermometer at the door of the hotel. A few miles from Port Hope
our waggon was changed for a small neat coach, which we found an
agreeable alteration, and soon reached Coburg.
Port Hope is prettily situated near Lake Ontario, at the mouth of a
small stream, murmuring over a rocky bottom, and well calculated for
propelling machinery. There is a pier, and general appearances betoken
prosperity.
Coburg is also situated near Lake Ontario, and much larger and more
advanced than Port Hope. It has much trade with the country across Rice
Lake.
There is a considerable extent of cleared ground from Bowmanville to
Port Hope; the soil poor and ill managed. Near the latter it improves,
and towards Coburg are some good farm-houses and offices, around which
the fields are well cultivated and fenced.
Around Coburg the vegetable mould in the woods was three inches deep,
and the soil sandy loam. The greater part of the soil we have seen in
America is of soft texture, and easily laboured. Here we learned plough
irons are only repaired twice a-year. At Newmarket a plough was pointed
out, the irons of which had not been at the smithy since the previous
October, and were still in tolerable order. Mildew was seen on wheat at
Bowmanville and Coburg. A lime-kiln was preparing building-lime on the
shores of the lake, and stones of the same rock were quarried for
building.
We found the young men swallowing their food at the table of the hotel
as fast as those of Albany did. It is almost a universal practice in the
States and Canada to board men, such as clerks and shopmen, in hotels. A
large bell or horn is sounded half an hour before meals, and again when
served up. Hence the rush to table, and expeditious eating.
Next morning we set out in a waggon for Sully on Rice Lake, a steamer
carrying us across the lake and up the river Otanabee to Peterborough,
the head of navigation, where we found accommodation at Macfadden’s
hotel.
When about to sit down to breakfast, I was introduced to Colonel B——, a
Scotchman, who, when seated at table, stated he was from East Lothian.
Knowing almost every individual in the district, I said in a tone of
surprise, “Are you serious?” and scanned his features very closely.
Answering in the affirmative, I asked if his name was Robert, if he had
a brother, and immediately introduced myself as a class-fellow at the
school of Haddington in 1806, not having since met or perhaps heard of
each other. We talked over old stories, and I was delighted to find my
friend possessed of one of the neatest and most comfortable cottages in
the finest situation in Peterborough.
Peterborough is on the Otanabee, and likely to become a place of some
importance. At present there are a number of mean houses scattered over
a considerable extent of surface, and the population is stated at 1000
souls, although I would not have rated them near so high. It is said to
contain a number of military and naval half-pay officers of Britain, and
the society to be the most polished and aristocratic in Canada.
In the forenoon we walked up the left bank of the river to visit Mr T——,
whom we met by the way, accompanied by his lady, who continued her
journey on horseback, and he returned with us. In the evening we walked
up the river side, passing an excellent mill-site, on which grist and
saw-mills were being erected, until we reached a string of lakes,
through which the Otanabee flows. The road up the banks of the river was
just opening, the trees had not been felled the length of Mr T——’s, and
in our evening walk some parts of the tract could only be crossed by
leaping, like squirrels, from trunk to trunk of fallen trees. On one
occasion my friend D——’s feet slipped, and he fell on his face, with
both arms fixed in the mud.
We left Peterborough for Coburg on 22d July, by way of Rice Lake, and
remarked that two-thirds of the people seen on the road were tipsy. This
was a painful sight, which the heat of the weather did not soften or
justify.
Rice Lake takes its name from the quantity of rice floating on its
waters; it is surrounded by gentle rising banks, and contains several
small islands. The lake is formed by the waters of the Otanabee, which,
from the lake to within a short distance of Peterborough, forms an
uninteresting sail, being a dense forest on both sides, with three or
four log-huts in the course of sixteen miles. Above the rapids, at
Peterborough, the river runs with considerable impetuosity, the banks
become diversified, in size equalling the largest river in Britain, and
its water-power, if properly developed, of considerable magnitude.
The surface, from Coburg to Rice Lake, is highly undulating, and, if
cleared, would perhaps be picturesque; the soil gradually falling off,
becoming poor sand, with timber of inferior size, and all kinds of crops
bad. For miles, before reaching the lake, the road leads through thinly
scattered oak trees, called plaines, or oak openings, covered with
stunted underwood, with external indications of extreme sterility; but
farther experience enables me to say, the appearance of the plaines is
not owing to quality of soil, but to the herbage being annually burned.
To the west of the Otanabee, and on the banks of the lake, is a
considerable clearance formed by government for the Massagur tribe of
Indians, and called Indian Village, adjoining which is the residence of
Captain Anderson, prettily situated.
The soil of the small clearances on the Otanabee, above Peterborough is
not of very fine quality, and mingled with large stones, but seemed to
improve on receding from the river. On cleared ground there was scarcely
a plant of clover, or even of grass, with the exception of timothy, the
seed of which had been sown. At the time of visiting this district I was
inclined to think unfavourably of the soil from the want of clovers and
grasses, but extended observation convinced me this circumstance had no
connexion with the quality of soil, and would not operate unfavourably
against the prosperity of these plants when their seeds are sown.
Near the banks of the Otanabee, a dark-coloured caterpillar had devoured
some fields of timothy grass, with exception of the culms, and the
insect had extended its ravages partially to Indian corn and wheat, but
red clover was untouched, growing amongst timothy which had been
entirely consumed. I could learn nothing of its natural history; but its
attacks were said to have been felt in 1825; and accounts from distant
parts of the north spoke of its attacks this year as highly destructive.
While delayed at Sully I strolled into the forest, and, on the margin of
Rice Lake, found a solitary plant of red clover, having about fifty
flower-stalks from one root, measuring five feet in height, and neither
soil or situation seemed favourable to luxuriance. There were three
heads faded, which I collected, and afterwards lost to my regret. On the
plains there were many flowering plants and grasses, and I remarked
_triticum repens_, the thick-rooted couch-grass of Britain, which is
found over many parts of Canada. Gooseberries covered with strong
prickles, which soften as the fruit ripens; and black currants, with
prickly and unprickly fruit, were growing in the woods; and hazel loaded
with nuts on open places.
Wages of farm-labourers in the neighbourhood of Peterborough were stated
at $10 per month by the year, and at $12 in part of summer. A
respectable settler in Smithstown told me he had offered $115 in cash
per annum, to be paid when a crop was reaped from the labour. In all
cases produce or store pay seems to be given, unless by special
agreement to the contrary. Cash is a scarce commodity, and could not be
obtained for wheat at the present time.
In course of my short excursion I had seen some bush life of individuals
formerly moving in a higher grade than those on the Welland canal. The
general impression was not favourable, and after farther experience of
such life, many things appeared exceptionable. In particular, ardent
spirits were too frequently used, mingled it is true with water, which
perhaps did not mitigate their effects. A cask of spirits, with a crane,
often stood in the corner of the room, and Mr D——r informed me Mr —— had
a bee a few weeks before, which lasted two days, and at which eighty
gallons of spirits were consumed.
The Newcastle district has been a fashionable place of settlement of
late years, more especially around Peterborough; and I was soon aware of
the means taken to induce people to settle in it. Before leaving
Scotland I had seen a catalogue of a most extensive sale of land
_purporting_ to take place in course of summer, and which contained a
chart of the district in which the lands lay. The chart formed our only
map, and was studded with villages, &c. In particular, Gambletown was
marked on the chart with numerous houses, as if a place of considerable
size; and on sailing up the Otanabee, on which it is situated, I
expected a thriving village; but on stopping to obtain a supply of
firewood, what was my disappointment at only finding two log-huts, one
of which was unoccupied! Accounts of the value of land appear
exaggerated. Uncleared forest land had, it was said, been sold at some
distance from Peterborough at $8 per acre, and some people wished me to
believe all land bore a relative value. A gentleman estimated his
property at $20 per acre, while I was offered the adjoining back lot of
better soil at $6, and I have no doubt could have got it for $4 cash. A
property has been said to yield annually L.500, which is very near the
sum I valued it at in perpetuity after examination.
On the morning of the 23d we left Coburg for Carrying-place on the bay
of Quinte, which we reached before dusk, having passed over an
undulating surface, the soil of which, with exception of part near
Carrying-place, was sandy and stony. Crops of all kinds inferior. A
field of rye had been cradled, and one of wheat was sufficiently matured
for the operation. This line of road illustrated the evils arising from
want of knowledge of soils in new settlers. Much of the soil was drift
sand, and would not repay the expenses of cultivation, cheap as those in
Canada are. Several farms seemed to have been deserted after having been
some years occupied; and unacquaintance with land, and other parts of
the American continent, can alone account for human beings having wasted
their labour in clearing such unfruitful soil.
Next morning we left Carrying-place at four for Kingston, where we
arrived at nine P. M., having passed Trent, Belville, Sophiaburgh,
Hallowell, and Bath.
The bay of Quinte is a branch of Lake Ontario, and a sail on its waters
perhaps imparts as much pleasure as any in Canada. Numberless islands,
bays, and promontories of every size, shape, and aspect, together with
ever-varying shades of vegetation, delight the eye. In many places the
margins are low, but for miles, on both sides of Hallowell, the banks
are of considerable height, well clothed with wood and adorned with
houses. In the distance was an island with a considerable sized Indian
village, said to contain 600 souls. The white-washed cots had a fine
effect in passing down the bay, while the inhabitants fishing in their
fragile canoes, and gliding to and fro on the unruffled waters, added
interest to the scene. On the mainland, opposite to the island, is an
Indian reserve, on which is a church, lonely situated near the margin of
the bay, and very unlike the worshipping places of more civilized men.
But the half-naked Indian, in recesses of the forest, may offer homage
to the Author of the Universe, with as much sincerity and hope of
acceptance, as the purple-clad in the glittering temples of the city.
The shores of the bay of Quinte have long been settled, and a
considerable extent of surface freed of wood. Wheat appeared nearly
ripe, and in a few instances cradling had commenced. Crops were inferior
and crowded with thistles, apparently the common perennial way-thistle
of Britain. My friend D—— and I, walking on deck, remarked a field
bearing a dense-looking crop with purple coloured flowers, which one
pronounced clover, the other pease, but on nearer approach it was seen
to be pasturage intermixed with thistles. This was an unfortunate
mistake for those having some pretensions to a knowledge of practical
agriculture, and perhaps the thistle-grower may esteem our discernment
as lightly as we do his management. This species of thistle is known in
the States by the name of the Canada thistle, and some proposals have
been made in the State of New York, to legislate to prevent its
increase.
Kingston is finely situated on a bay of Lake Ontario, over which there
is an excellent wooden bridge, perhaps the best in America, connecting
the town with the fort and naval yard. Most of the houses are of stone
or brick, and the inhabitants estimated at 6000 souls. It enjoys a
considerable trade, which is likely to be greatly augmented by the
opening of the Rideau canal, which here enters the lake.
We examined the barracks, most substantial erections, also the fort and
naval yard; the former is renewing with the best materials; the vessels
in the docks are hastening to decay. Regarding war in every case an
evil, and its engines too often misapplied, the rotting vessels excited
more pleasing ideas than the rising fort.
We learned masons employed at the fort got $1 a-day, without finding or
board; and in town considerably more, when store pay is given. One
gentleman said he would rather give $120 store-pay than $100 cash; and a
workman said he preferred $9 cash to $12 store-pay. I could not learn
that employer and storekeeper unite for the purpose of plundering
workmen. At present storekeepers constitute the most wealthy and
powerful class in the community, landowners and workmen being generally
indebted to them, hence enormous profits. The common per centage on
retailing provisions at Kingston, being stated at 70 per cent, dry goods
100. Potash sells at Montreal for L.24 a-ton; the farmer at Kingston
gets L.17 store-pay, equal to L.12 cash.
In the neighbourhood of Kingston grasshoppers were numerous, many of
them having wings, and flying a considerable distance. This insect is
numerous throughout America, and sometimes seriously injures grass
crops. As cultivation extends, its numbers are likely to decrease.
Having perambulated Kingston and the surrounding country, the soil of
which was inferior, with limestone everywhere protruding, we got on
board a steam-boat for Prescott, where we arrived at midnight, and again
sailed for Longsault in the Iroquois steamer, a light vessel with
paddles in the stern, built for navigating the rapids of the St
Lawrence, and which has been found to answer well. From Longsault we
passed to Cornwall by a stage, and again by a steamer to Coteau-de-lac,
where we got into a stage to Cascades, and by steam to Lachine, and from
thence by land to Montreal.
On leaving Kingston I anticipated much pleasure in sailing through the
Lake of the Thousand Isles, which forms the passage of Lake Ontario into
the river St Lawrence, but the curtain of night fell before we had well
entered, and the light of the moon did not render objects distinct.
There was a pleasing novelty in the lake from the number of low islands
like tufts of vegetation sleeping on the surface, and glistening with
the fires of the wood-choppers. The moon’s shadow in the ripple of the
waters was particularly beautiful, and some hours might have been passed
pleasantly on deck but for a cold, damp atmosphere.
The St Lawrence being the first river of magnitude I had sailed on, my
preconceptions of its effects on the senses were quickly dispelled; the
objects on its level banks being indistinct and soon lost to the eye.
The associations suggested by the endless and ever-varying objects,
successively and vividly impressed on the mind’s eye in passing down a
river in Britain, are altogether wanting. Fertility, shelter, health,
and peaceful retirement, so dear to a Scottish farmer, and almost
invariably the attributes of the streamlets of his country, belong not
to the St Lawrence in this part of its course, where the low lying, and
in many places reed-growing, margins suggest pestilence and privation.
The immensity of fresh water hurrying towards the sea fills the mind
with wonder.
Around Cornwall, and more particularly from Coteau-du-Lac to the
Cascades, much excellent wheat was growing on clay soil formed into very
narrow ridges. Other crops were indifferent, and nearly choked with
perennial thistles. From Lachine to Montreal we observed many wild oats
(_Avena fatua_) for the first time in America.