MILL CALCULATIONS--YARN COUNTS, REEDS, HEALDS, COST OF CLOTH, WARPING
AND SIZING LENGTHS, WAGES, SPEEDS, ENGINES.
It is desirable that the calculations connected with cotton
manufacturing in all its bearings be treated in a separate chapter.
This is not only necessary from their number, but from their great
variety and difficulty of classification under different chapter
headings, inasmuch as many are applicable to more than one process.
YARN CALCULATIONS.
The fineness of cotton yarn is indicated by the counts (otherwise
numbers or grist). The counts refer to the number of hanks in a pound
(avoirdupois). The cotton hank is always 840 yards; and, therefore,
if we speak of 10’s, we refer to yarn of which 10 hanks or 8400 yards
weigh one pound; or in referring to 36’s, of that which 36 × 840 or
30,240 yards weigh one pound. This applies to either twist or weft. The
cotton yarn measure is--
120 yards = 1 lea.
7 leas or 840 yards = 1 hank.
and the cotton yarn weight is peculiar, being an avoirdupois pound
divided into pennyweights and ounces as in the troy weight.
24 grains = 1 pennyweight.
437-1/2 grains = 18-11/48 pennyweights = 1 ounce.
7000 grains = 16 ounces = 1 lb.
WRAPPING.
1’s are taken as the standard with 840 yards in 7000 grains, and a
higher count means finer yarn; then 840 yards of, say 2’s, would weigh
3500 grains, or of 70’s, would weigh 100 grains. If we measure a hank
of yarn, and find that it weighs 100 grains, then 7000, divided by 100,
gives the counts. It is inconvenient in wrapping yarn to measure 840
yards, therefore a lea of 120 yards is taken as the standard length for
1’s, and also the proportionate weight = 1000 grains. Instead of taking
840 yards and 7000 grains it is usual, then, to take 120 yards and 1000
grains. A wrap reel is 1-1/2 yards in circumference, and, by revolving
it 80 times, we can wind 120 yards from a cop placed in the machine.
Suppose this lea of 120 yards weighs 25 grains, then 10000/25 = 40’s.
Should less than a lea be taken, say 60 yards, then 500 grains must be
the dividend. Generally, however, _to obtain the counts_ of any yarn,
120 yards are weighed, and the weight, in grains, divided into 1000.
_Having the Length and Counts given, to find the Weight._--9240 yards
of 44’s weft = 9240 yards ÷ 840 = 11 hanks. In the given counts 44
hanks weigh 1 lb., then 11 hanks weigh 11/44 or 1/4 of a lb.
_Counts of Silk, Worsted, Linen._--Single silk is counted same as
cotton, except that in two-fold patent silk the actual wrapping is
given--say, 30’s/2 in silk will wrap 30’s. In cotton, 2/30’s would wrap
15’s. The worsted hank is 560 yards. The linen “lea” is 300 yards.
The French cotton standard is 1000 metres in 500 grammes--equivalent
to 992·4 yards in 1 lb. Thus, 1·181’s in English would be 1’s in
French. To transfer cotton measure to any other take the cotton count,
proportion it inversely to the number of yards in the hanks, say--
20’s cotton equals 30’s worsted,
(20 × 840)/560 = 30’s
20’s cotton equals 56’s linen,
300 : 840 :: 20’s : 56’s.
20’s cotton equals 20’s silk.
20’s English equals 16·93’s French.
1·18 : 1 :: 20’s : _x_
_x_ = (1 × 20)/1·181 = 16·93
_Double Yarns (Cotton)._--Two-fold yarns are numbered according to the
single yarn counts--thus, 2/80’s = two ends of 80’s twined together,
which would wrap 40’s. Actually, to make the resultant count 40’s, the
single yarn should be finer than 80’s, because the twist put in the
folded yarn contracts it in length and causes the two-fold to be really
coarser than would appear. However, neglecting this, suppose we twine
one end of 40’s and one of 20’s, the counts would not be 15’s, as a
first glance would indicate, but 13·33. This can be proved by taking
the weight of a lea of 40 = 25 grains, and of 20’s = 50 grains; total,
75. 75 divided into 1000 gives the counts as 13-1/3. Another rule is,
multiply the two counts and divide by their sum--
(40 × 20)/(40 + 20) = 800/60 = 13-1/3
3/300’s = 100’s.
3-fold yarn of 40’s, 80’s, and 120’s would be 21·81.
A lea of 40’s = 25 grains.
A lea of 80’s = 12-1/2 "
A lea of 120’s = 8-1/8 "
------
45-5/6
1000/(45-5/6) = 21·81
Or take the highest count and divide it by each of the others and by
itself, then divide the total of the quotients into the highest--
120 ÷ 80 = 1-1/2
120 ÷ 40 = 3
120 ÷ 120 = 1
-----
5-1/2 120/5-1/2 = 21·81
TESTING YARNS.
In addition to wrapping warp yarn to ascertain actual counts, it is
frequently tested as to strength; the lea from the reel is placed
between two hooks on a testing machine, and by a wheel worm and screw
the lower hook is moved downwards, increasing the tension on the yarn.
By an index finger this tension is indicated on a face plate, and when
the lea is broken the finger stops at the highest weight or strain that
the yarn has stood. Below is a table, which will give a general idea
of the comparative strength of mule twists, having, for the American
cotton, the standard turns in--_i.e._, square root of counts multiplied
by 3-3/4.
20’s American Cotton = 80lb.
30’s " " = 54lb.
40’s { " " = 40lb.
{ Egyptian " = 50lb.
50’s { American " = 28lb.
{ Egyptian " = 37lb.
60’s " " = 30lb.
70’s " " = 26lb.
In yarn the diameters of the threads do not vary inversely as the
counts, but inversely as the square root of the counts. Thus, 16’s is
not four times as thick as 64’s, but twice as thick, the square roots
being four and eight respectively.
REED COUNTING.
Before entering into the calculations regarding the weight of cloth,
it is necessary to familiarise ourselves with some method of counting
the ends of warp in the cloth. On the Exchange the system adopted both
for ends and pick is their number per quarter inch--_e.g._, a 16 by
14 means 16 ends per 1/4-inch, or 14 picks per quarter. The methods
used in the manufactory are based on the counts of reed. Formerly
many systems of reed counts prevailed, each town or district having
a method peculiar to itself; thus, Blackburn counts, Preston counts
and many others were at one time adhered to in their respective
districts, but have now fallen into disuse, and almost been forgotten.
The Stockport counts is commonest in Lancashire, and is based on the
number of dents or splits of the reed in two inches, and as cloth is
generally wrought two ends on a dent, this system is often taken as the
number of ends in one inch. It is in use in almost every Lancashire
manufacturing district, being adopted in consequence of its simplicity
and suitability for calculation purposes.
The Bolton counts is still used in some mills in that town and also
in Bury and some few other districts. It is based on the number of
beers in 24-1/4 inches--a beer comprising 20 dents. A Stockport 40’s
reed would have 485 dents on 24-1/4 inches, or 24-1/4 beers Bolton.
A Bolton 24-1/4 reed is then equal to a Stockport 40’s. To find the
number of splits per inch in a reed having Bolton counts given,
multiply those counts by ·8249, or _vice versâ_. This rule shows the
number of dents and decimal parts; 8·245 is more often taken, but it
gives the number with less exactitude. The fraction is only taken to
two places of decimals, showing thus the 100th parts of dents--_e.g._,
a 30^0 Bolton has 24-74/100 splits per inch (8·249 × 30 = 24·747). To
convert Stockport into Bolton counts multiply by ·60625. To convert
Bolton into Stockport multiply by 1·6495. This rule gives the number of
ends per inch in Bolton counts, supposing the cloth to be wrought two
ends in a dent. The Scotch systems are to take the number of dents or
splits in the old Scotch ell, 37 inches, or by the number of porters
on the same length. The Scotch porter is equal to the Lancashire
beer--20 splits. In the first system, the splits per ell are expressed
in hundreds--thus, 17^{00} indicates 1700 splits on 37 inches, almost
equal to a 92 reed, Stockport; or a 46 on the Scotch inch scale, which
is the number of splits in one inch, and corresponding to the old
Radcliffe and Pilkington method in Lancashire.
By the porter system, a 40-porter reed would give 40 × 20 dents =
800 on 37 inches, equal to a 43 reed, Stockport, In Scotland (as in
Lancashire) the old complicated systems show a tendency to give way in
favour of the simpler systems of counting the dents or ends in one inch.
In the reed table given below, the first row of figures shows the
proportion which these reeds bear to one another, and the lower rows
indicate the fineness of the different systems for 33 and 40 splits
per inch respectively--the calculation results being given, which same
might not frequently appear in practice--
The Inch Stockport Bolton Scotch. Scotch
Scale. Dents Beers 100 ends Porter.
Dents per on on on Porters on
Inch. 2 Inches. 24-1/4 Inches. 37 Inches. 37 Inches.
1 2 1·2125 0·37 1·85
33 66 40· 12·20 61
40 80 48·5 14·80 74
HEALDS.
In Stockport counts four healds are considered as a set, and having
one thread through each eye are dubbed of similar counts to the
reed--_e.g._, a 60’s set of healds has 15 stitches per inch in each
set, equalling 60 ends per inch in the reed, which is a 60’s reed,
Stockport.
In spaced healds some are knitted finer than others and consequently
numbered differently. In this point draft:--
5 5
4 4 4 4
3 3 3
2 2
1
twelve ends are drawn on five healds, one end on the 1st heald, two
on the 2nd, three on the 3rd, four on the 4th, and two on the 5th.
Four different degrees of fineness are required in the five heald
staves, and the above draft is given to the knitter with instructions
for so many patterns to the inch. Say five patterns per inch: 5 × 12
would give a 60 reed, and the number of stitches per inch would be
respectively 5, 10, 15, 20 and 10--the front one being equal to a
Stockport 20’s, for if there were four similar to it in a set, the
number of ends would be 20. Similarly the second stave equals a
Stockport 40’s, the third 60’s, the fourth 80’s, and the fifth same as
the second, a 40’s. To prove this, the requisite set of five staves
might be obtained by taking one stave out of a plain 20’s set, two
staves of a plain 40’s, one stave from a 60’s, and one from an 80’s set.
WEIGHT OF A PIECE.
In calculating the weight of a piece, the warp weight is obtained
from the number of ends, based upon the width in the reed. This is
multiplied by the sizing length and brought into hanks, from which
the weight can be obtained by dividing by the counts. The weft is
calculated from the picks to the inch, the reed width, and the actual
length of piece. Example--A piece has to be made full dimensions, 36
inches wide, 36 yards long, 16 square (1/4 inch)--_i.e._, 64 ends per
inch and 64 picks; yarns 30’s/36’s, the first number being the warp,
sized 25 per cent. In the reed it would stand 38 inches, about six
per cent. being allowed for contraction. Of course, if the yarn were
coarser, the pick heavier, and the reed finer, more than this would be
allowed. Supposing that a 60’s reed (Stockport) is used, the number
of ends would be 38 × 60 = 2280; the length of warp, say 38 yards,
allowing six per cent.--then
(2280 × 38)/840 = 103-1/7 hanks,
Divided by 30’s gives 3lb. 7oz.
_Weft._--The weft, 37-1/2 inches wide, 64 picks; length of piece, 36
yards.
(37-1/2 × 64 x 36)/(840 × 36’s) = 2lb. 13-3/4oz.
37-1/2 × 64 gives the number of inches of weft in one inch of cloth,
or, what is the same, yards of weft in one yard of cloth.
_Size._--
3lb. 7oz. = 55oz.
25 per cent. on 55 =
55 × 25 ÷ 100 = 13-3/4oz.
The weight of the piece is then--
Twist 3 : 7
Size 13-3/4
-----------------------
4 : 4-3/4
Weft 2 : 13-3/4
----------
7 : 2-1/2
When the piece is measured by the long stick, about half an inch more
to the yard must be reckoned--_e.g._, 38-inch: 14/14, 37-1/2 yards
L.S., 38’s weft, to be 8-1/4lb. in weight; this would be perhaps 38-1/4
yards long S.S.
_Weft._--
(40 × 56 × 38-1/4)/(840 × 38) = 2 : 10-3/4
Leaving 5: 9-1/4 for twist and size, say of the latter 100 per cent.,
then 2: 12-1/2 would be twist--
(40 × 52 × 41)/840 = 101-1/2 hanks
required to be found in 2: 12-1/2 of yarn; then if 2: 12-1/2 = 101-1/2
hank:: 1lb. equals 36’s twist about.
This cloth would then be composed of--
Warp 2 : 12-1/4
Size 2 : 13
Weft 2 : 10-3/4
----------
8 : 4
For quoting purposes the weight of the yarn is taken at the market
price, say that of the cloth No. 1--
lb. oz.
3 7 of 30’s T at 8d. = 2 : 3-1/2
2 13-3/4 of 36’s W at 8d. = 1 : 11
Weaving Price = 9-1/2
To this is added a sum sufficient to cover cost--winding, warping,
sizing, power, miscellaneous expenses, waste (which sum varies
considerably, and depends mainly upon the situation of the producers
as regards the amount at which he can produce this cloth). Often, for
lightly-sized goods, the weaving price is doubled, making this piece
cost 5s. 9-1/2d. Should it be a dhootie, then an addition is made for
coloured yarns for heading and border, and if a figured cloth extras
are included for increased cost of production.
The examples given are supposititious ones, for, as has been said, the
exact details of weight and quoting prices are decided purely by local
or temporary position, and fixed data cannot be given as a standard for
every case.
STRIPE PATTERNS.
In case of stripes with two counts of warp yarn, for example, the
number of ends of each must be obtained. If there are 38 stripes each
of 15 ends, 40’s twist, with a ground cloth between each of 45 ends
warp, 60’s T, separate calculations for each must be made.
38 × 15 = 570 stripe ends.
38 × 45 = 1710 ground ends.
ALTERING.
When the pick or reed is altered, the weight of the weft or warp is
altered in proportion; when the length or width is altered, the weight
of the piece is altered in proportion; when the counts of yarn are
altered, the weight alters inversely proportionately.
OTHER REEDS.
Although the 1/4-inch scale is mostly used for calculating warps in
Lancashire, we give an example of a calculation with the Bolton reed.
To get the number of ends, multiply the reed counts by the width of
your warp in the reed, and by 1·6495--thus, Bolton 36’s, 39 inches
in the reed, would give 2238 ends. The calculation is then proceeded
with in the ordinary manner. In the Scotch ell standard system, the
dimensions of the cloth before-mentioned would be 36 inches wide, 36
yards long, 11^{00} reed, 11-1/2 shots to the glass, yarns 30’s/36’s.
To calculate the weight of warp, add six per cent. to the 36 inches,
making it 38 inches wide in the reed. If there are 1100 splits on 37
inches, then the number on 38 inches will be proportional.
(1100 × 38)/37 = 1130.
Multiply by 2, as it is always understood that there are two ends in a
split, and we get 2260 ends. The calculation is then continued in the
usual way.
(2260 × 38)/(840 × 30) = 3·407lb.
_Weft._---- The meaning of shots on the glass refers to a counting
glass used in Glasgow district, one two-hundredth part of a yard in
width; 11-1/2 shots will then give 11-1/2 × 200 = 2300 picks in a yard.
(2300 × 37-1/2 inches wide)/(36’s × 36 inches to the yard × 840) = 2·85lb.
If required to be left in hank, omit to divide by the counts in each
case. In other materials, the length of the hank varies, and, in
the case of single worsted, we should have divided in the previous
calculations by 560 instead of 840, in linen by 300, or in single silk
by 840.
WARPING AND SIZING CALCULATIONS.
In getting an order passed through a weaving shed the first point,
after calculating the particulars for each piece or cut, is to get
the length for warping and sizing. In the case of an order for 3750
pieces of the before-mentioned dimensions, the total length of warp
is calculated thus--38 yards for one piece × 3750 = 142,500 yards,
allowing nothing for waste in length, as the tension on the yarn in
process will stretch it sufficiently to allow for that, and perhaps a
little more. At the warping mill the length is taken in wraps of 3564
yards, subdivided into teeth of 27 yards. In this case, four wraps or
14,256 yards would be taken to a set of back beams; therefore, this
order would be run in ten separate sets.
The number of back beams for the sizing machine is proportioned to the
capacity of the warping mill--say five beams, the length on each beam
must be 14,256 yards, and the total number of ends on the beams equal
to the ends in the piece--say 5 at 456 each = 2280.
_To Calculate the Counts of Yarn after Warping._--Divide the length
by the weight and 840. A beam weighs 301lb., carrying 504 ends, each
14,256 yards long--
(14,256 × 504)/(301 × 840) = 28·41’s.
Having 375 pieces to make from the set of beams, which will probably
weigh about 1300lb. for 30’s twist, to this add 25 per cent. for size =
(1300 × 325)/100 = 325
1300
----
1625
Divide by 375) 1500 (4lb. 5oz.
----
125
16
----
2000
4lb. 5oz. being about the size required (_vide_ page 150).
_Actual Size._--To find the size actually put on the yarn, subtract the
weight of the unsized yarn less waste from the sized yarn--_e.g._,
1639 Actual sized weight.
1300
----
339 = Weight of size.
1300) 33900 (26·07 per cent. actual.
2600
----
7900
7800
----
100
_Counts after Sizing._--
(14256 × 2280) / (1639 × 840) = 23·61’s
_To Calculate the Percentage of Waste._--Multiply the waste made by
100 and divide by the weight of yarn used. If eleven skips of twist,
weighing 3189lb., make 33lb. of waste--
3189 ) 3300 ( 1·034 per cent.
3189
------
11100
9567
------
15330
WAGES--STANDARD LISTS.
In those towns where a uniform class of goods is made of simple weave,
it is possible to formulate and adhere to a standard method of payment
such as is done in Burnley, Blackburn, and other towns. In other
districts, such as Bolton and Preston, the sorts are so varied and
difficult to classify that at many mills a private list is adhered to
with satisfaction to the employer and employed. For the benefit of
some readers a typical calculation will be given, based on the 1853
Blackburn list, as in 1883 this list was adopted in Preston, Chorley,
and other towns. This may be considered a list of medium position with
regard to other lists--Burnley being lower for plains, Ashton list
being considered a low one for fancies.
The Blackburn list is based on a 40-inch loom, weaving from 36
to 41-inch cloth, 60 reed Stockport counts, 16 picks per 1/4
inch, 37-1/2 yards, from 30’s to 60’s weft, and from 28’s to
45’s twist, for 12·25d.
_Reeds._--A 60 reed or 30 dents, being the standard, is made
the starting point, and 3/4 per cent. is deducted for every
two ends or counts of reeds, from 60 to 48; but no deduction
is made below 48 reed, and 3/4 per cent. is added for every
two ends or counts of reed above 60. _Weft._--All weft from
30’s to 60’s, both included, is considered medium, and reckoned
equal, but all weft above 60’s to be allowed 1 per cent. for
every 10 hanks,
and all below 30’s to 26’s to be allowed 2 per cent. on list.
" 26’s to 20’s " 5 "
" 20’s to 16’s " 8 "
" 16’s to 14’s " 10 "
_Twist._--All twist from 28’s to 45’s, both included, is
considered medium, and reckoned equal, but all twist above 45’s
up to 60’s to be allowed 1-1/2 per cent., and all above 60’s 1
per cent. for each 10 hanks,
and all below 28’s to 20’s to be allowed 1 per cent. on list.
" 20’s to 14’s " 2 "
_Additions for Picks._--All picks above 8 and up to 18 are
considered proportionate, but 8 picks and all below and all
above 18, to have 1 per cent. allowed for every pick over and
above the proportionate difference in the number of picks.
_Width of Looms._--A 40-inch loom being the standard, is taken
as the starting point, and all additions or deductions are
made therefrom. (The reed space is measured from back board to
forkgrate.)
25-inch loom has 2-1/2 per cent. deducted from 30-inch loom.
30-inch " 5 " " 35-inch "
35-inch " 5 " " 40-inch "
40-inch loom (45-inch reed space) the standard--
45-inch loom has 5 per cent. added to 40-inch loom.
50-inch " 10 " " 45-inch "
55-inch " 10 " " 50-inch "
60-inch " 10 " " 55-inch "
_Looms of Intermediate Width._--One per cent. per inch is to be
deducted from 40 down to 30-inch loom; below 30 to 26-inch loom
5/8 per cent. per inch to be deducted. Above 40-inch and up to
45-inch loom, 1 per cent. per inch to be added, and all above
45-inch 2 per cent. per inch.
_Narrow Cloth in Broad Looms._--Suppose a 40-inch loom should
be weaving cloth 36 to 31-1/4 inches in width, take off
one-half the difference between 40 and 35-inch loom price; and
if weaving cloth 31 to 27-1/4 inches wide, take off one-half
the difference between 40 and 30-inch loom price; or if weaving
41-1/4 to 46-inch cloth in a 50-inch loom, take off one-half
the difference between 50 and 45-inch loom, and so on with all
other widths.
_Range of Cloths._--
26-inch loom allowed to weave cloth up to 27 inches.
35-inch " " from 31 to 36 inches.
40-inch " " " 36 to 41 "
45-inch " " " 41 to 46 "
50-inch " " " 46 to 52 "
_Basis of Calculations._--The calculations in the Blackburn
list are based upon the picks counted by the glass when the
cloth is laid upon the counter. Forty yards short stick to be
taken as 39 yards long stick.
To find price for a 44-inch cloth in 45-inch loom = 66’s reed, 44
change pinion, 528 dividend, 75 yards long, 34’s/36’s--
12·25 Standard.
Add 5 per cent. loom ·61
-----
12·86
Add 2-1/4 per cent. reed ·28
-----
13·14
Calculate in proportion to pick 16 to 12 = 9·86
Calculate proportion length 37-1/2 to 75 = 19·72 = List price.
Double
Deduct 10 per cent. = 1·97
-----
17·78 = Present price.
or from list under heading, 45-inch loom--
66 reed, 37-1/2 yards = ·822 for 1 pick.
9·86 for 12 picks.
19·72 for 75 yards.
SPEEDS OF SHAFTS, ETC.
In calculating the speed of a shaft driven from another by pulleys or
gearing, multiply the speed of the first shaft by the driving pulley or
wheel, and divide by the driven one. A shaft makes 100 revolutions per
minute and carries a 40-inch drum driving a 16-inch pulley on another
shaft; the speed of the second shaft would be 250, thus:--
(100 × 40)/16 = 250.
The same rule and calculation would apply if the first shaft had
carried a 40-teeth cog-wheel, and the second a 16-teeth wheel.
In taking the dimensions of a pulley for calculations the diameter
is often taken; it does not matter, though, if the circumference be
taken, but care must be exercised in taking the same dimension for the
driven as is taken for the driver. If the diameter is taken of one, the
diameter must be taken of the other.
_To get Speed of Loom from Engine._--Multiply the engine speed by all
the driving pulleys, and divide by the driven ones. If the engine make
46 strokes per minute, spur-wheel 105 teeth, second motion pinion 52
teeth; also on same a 52 driving a 49 on line shaft in shed. Pulley
on line shaft on which is a 15-inch drum driving a loom pulley on the
crank-shaft of 8 inches.
The driving and driven pulleys are always alternate; then as the first
must be a driver--
(46 × 105 × 52 × 15)/(52 × 49 × 8) = 185 nearly.
The answer gives the _calculated_ picks per minute. About 4 per cent.
must, however, be allowed for slippage, reducing the 185 to an actual
speed of about 177.
_To find the Size of Pulley for any required Speed._--Find the ratio of
the given speed and arrange size of pulley accordingly. Suppose a shaft
running at 100 revolutions per minute has to drive a loom-shaft at a
speed of 180 picks per minute the ratio of speed is as 100 to 180 or as
5 to 9; arrange the pulleys in this proportion--say 10 inches and 18
inches, the larger pulley being on the driving shaft.
_To alter Speeds._--Calculate in proportion to the alteration. If a
twill-shaft is driven by a 30-cog wheel, and revolves at a speed of
45 revolutions per minute for a 4-leaf twill, and it is desirable to
change this to a 3-leaf twill with the twill-shaft at 60 revolutions
per minute, then, as 45 is to 60, so 30: _x_--
_x_ = (60 × 30)/45 = 40
A 40 wheel must now _drive_ the wheel on the twill-shaft, and the speed
will be increased one-third more.
ENGINES.
The strength of a steam engine is indicated in horse-powers. A
horse-power is taken as the capacity of performing 33,000 foot-pounds
of work in one minute; lifting 3300lb. 10 feet high, or 10lb. 3300 feet
high would be 33,000 foot-pounds of work.
_To obtain the Indicated Horse-power--the most usual Standard._--A
diagram is taken from the engine by a small apparatus, and this
diagram, when measured and averaged at different points of its length,
gives the mean pressure of steam in the cylinder. Multiply this by the
speed of the piston, by the area of the piston, and divide by 33,000,
and the I.H.P. is to hand. 39·81 average pressure per square inch, area
of piston 400 square inches, length of stroke 5-1/2 feet, strokes per
minute 40 (or 11 feet both ways)--
(39·81 × 400 × 11 × 40)/33,000 = 212·32 I.H.P.
Nominal horse-power (condensing) = area of piston divided by 22; ditto
high pressure = area of piston divided by 11.
2-1/2 to 3 looms, with preparation, are reckoned to 1 indicated
horse-power.
_Coal._--A good quality of coal should evaporate 8lb. of water for each
1lb. burnt, and for a manufacturing concern (including sizing, which
takes a great amount of steam) the consumption of coal should be about
3-1/4lb. per I.H.P. per hour. Thus 600 horse-power should use about 24
tons per week; excluding sizing, 2-3/4lb. would suffice.
_To find the Circumference of a Circle._--Multiply the diameter by
3·1416 or (roughly) by 3-1/7.
_To find the Area of a Circular Space._--Square the diameter and
multiply by ·7854.
_To find the Cubical Contents of a Rectangular Block._--Multiply the
depth, length and breadth together.
[Illustration]
CITY AND GUILDS OF LONDON INSTITUTE
FOR THE ADVANCEMENT OF
TECHNICAL EDUCATION.
_TECHNOLOGICAL EXAMINATIONS._
19B.--COTTON MANUFACTURE.
SECTION I.--COTTON SPINNING.
=I. Syllabus.=--The Examination will include questions founded on such
subjects as the following:--
1. The geographical position of the world’s cotton fields, and suitable
regions to which it may be introduced.
2. Cotton cultivation and the various causes of damage to the fibre
during growing and picking seasons, with the dates of planting and
picking in all cotton-growing countries.
3. The mode of preparing the raw material, cotton gins, ginning,
packing, &c. Means and methods of adulteration.
4. Commercial handling of the raw material up to the spinning mill.
5. The nature and properties of the various kinds of raw material--Sea
Island, Queensland, Fiji, Egyptian, New Orleans, Uplands, Boweds,
Dollerah, Hinghinghat, Surat, Brazilian, &c.
6. The selection of, and advisability, or otherwise, of mixing various
cottons with a view to the full utilization of every kind.
7. The development of and the principles involved in the construction
of the several machines used in cotton spinning.
8. Cleaning cotton by opening, scrutching, carding and combing
machines.
9. Processes of attaining a parallel arrangement of fibres by
carding, and the attenuation of the sliver through drawing, slubbing,
intermediate and finishing roving frames.
10. Spinning operations upon the throstle, mule, and ring frames.
11. The doubling of single yarns for lace, hosiery, sewing thread, and
kindred purposes.
12. Warping and bundling for the home trade and export, with the
accompanying processes of winding and reeling.
13. Packing and commercial dealing with yarns in the process of
distribution.
* * * * *
In the Honours Examination more difficult questions in the above
subjects will be set than in the Ordinary Grade.
=II. Full Technological Certificate.=--The candidate, who is not
otherwise qualified (see Regulations 33 and 34), will be required, for
the full Certificate in the Ordinary Grade, to have passed the Science
and Art Department’s Examination, in the Elementary Stage at least, and
for the full Certificate in the Honours Grade, in the Advanced Stage at
least, in two of the following Science subjects:--
II. Machine Construction and Drawing.
III. Building Construction.
VI. Theoretical Mechanics.
VII. Applied Mechanics.
XV. Elementary Botany.
Certificates, showing that the candidate has passed the Second Grade
Examination of the Science and Art Department in Geometrical Drawing as
well as in Freehand or Model Drawing, will be accepted in lieu of one
of the above Science subjects for the full Technological Certificate in
either grade of the Examination.
SECTION II.--COTTON WEAVING.
The Examination in the Ordinary Grade will consist of a paper of
questions only.
=I. Syllabus.=--The Examination will include questions founded on such
subjects as the following:--
1. Winding Machines for warping and pirns.
2. Warping.--Mill, beam and sectional.
3. Sizing.--Ball, hank, dressing, slashing upon both cylinder and
hot-air frames.
4. Beaming and Scotch Dressing.
5. Reeds and Healds (Counts Setting, &c.), Drawing in and Twisting.
6. Comparative merits of Hand and Power Looms.
7. The Power Loom--its parts, the principle governing each, with the
relation and timing of each to the other.
8. Shedding Motions--as Tappets with their over and under motions.
Dobbies or witches.
9. Picking motions, alternate and “pick and pick.”
10. Beating up, shuttle box, and minor motions.
11. Necessary calculations for the power loom.
12. The various makes of cloth produced by Tappets and Dobbies as plain
cloth, twills, satins, and small figured effects, with one warp and
weft, or with the addition of extra warp for figuring, as in Dhooties.
13. Method of making designs, drafts, and tie-ups for the above.
14. Colour and colour blending as applied to the coloured branches of
the industry.
15. Calculations for warp and weft and method of costing goods.
* * * * *
The Examination for the Honours Grade will consist of more advanced
questions on the preceding subjects, especially those enumerated
in Sections 7 to 11; and, in addition, questions relating to the
following:--
1. Construction of the various Jacquard machines in use, and their
relative suitability to various goods, and the system of mounting
Jacquard looms.
2. Construction, merits and uses of the hand loom.
3. Principles of cloth structure, and the mechanism required for the
production of the following typical fabrics:--Plain cloth, twills,
diapers, brocades, damasks, coloured stripes and checks, warp spots,
repps, weft spots produced with circles, swivels or extra shuttles,
backed cloths, double cloths, 3, 4, 5, &c., ply fabrics, tapestries,
velveteens, cords, Terry fabrics, plain and figured gauze, lappets,
plain and figured leno.
4. Principles of designing and card cutting involved in producing the
above fabrics, giving preference to the actual designing and working of
such patterns as shall be practically useful as articles of commerce.
5. Analysis of samples of woven fabrics to determine pattern, draft,
tie-up, and counts of material used.
6. Composition of the various yarns used in the production of mixed
fabrics.
7. Latent and other defects in fabrics caused by faulty construction
and unequal balancing of warp and weft.
8. Selection of warp and weft yarns suitable for the fabrics required.
9. Proportioning of fabrics so as to maintain the original structure
with an increased or diminished weight.
10. Method of calculating the cost of a fabric from given data of
values of material and labour, by ascertaining the fibre, counts, ends,
picks and weight.
11. Actual Weaving.--Each candidate will be required, during the year
preceding the Examination, to design and execute in suitable material
an original pattern, of not less than 200 ends and 200 picks in a
complete pattern, and to forward the same (carriage paid) to London
a fortnight prior to the day of the Examination, together with a
certificate signed by his employer, or by the class teacher and a
member of the School Committee, stating that the work has been executed
by the candidate without assistance. The specimen of weaving, showing
the complete pattern, must not be less than one yard in length and at
least 24 inches in width: it must be properly dyed or finished, and
constructed in such a manner as to be a saleable article.
=II. Full Technological Certificate.=--The candidate, who is not
otherwise qualified (see Regulations 33 and 34), will be required, for
the full Certificate in the Ordinary Grade, to have passed the Science
and Art Department’s Examination, in the Elementary Stage at least, and
for the full Certificate in the Honours Grade, in the Advanced Stage at
least, in _two_ of the following Science subjects:--
II. Machine Construction and Drawing.
III. Building Construction.
VI. Theoretical Mechanics.
VII. Applied Mechanics.
XV. Elementary Botany.
Certificates, showing that the candidate has passed the Second Grade
Examination of the Science and Art Department in Geometrical Drawing as
well as in Freehand or Model Drawing, will be accepted in lieu of one
of the above Science subjects for the full Technological Certificate in
either grade of the Examination.
[Illustration]
GLOSSARY OF TRADE TERMS.
_Am._--AMERICAN. _Sc._--SCOTCH.]
_Some words not mentioned here are explained in previous parts of the
book, and will be found in the General Index._
=Apex=--The tip or point--_e.g._, of a cone or wedge.
=Backed Cloth=--Cloth which, in addition to the faced fabric,
bears bound underneath a layer either of extra weft, extra
warp, or of another cloth. The term is usually applied to the
first-named variety.
=Bar=--A term applied to a single strip of coloured weft, used
as heading or cross border.
=Beam=--The flanged roller on which the warp yarn is wound,
either at the beam, warping, sizing, or dressing machines; also
applied to the full beam.
=Beer=--Twenty dents or splits in a reed, also 40 ends--_i.e._,
two ends to each split.
=Bevel=--A cog wheel, having the teeth set at an angle with
the shaft on which it moves, but in the some plane, unless a
skew-gear bevel.
=Bitting=--Drawing in additional ends at the side of healds and
reeds in case of a wider warp having to be used.
=Bobbin=--A flanged wooden cylinder.
=Borders=--The stripe running along the side of a piece of
cloth--formed either by different colour, counts of yarn, or
weave, from the centre.
=Box Motion=--Arrangement for operating the shuttle boxes in
check weaving.
=Bracket=--An attachment bolted to a framing for the support of
other apparatus.
=Cam or Camb=--A plate revolving on a shaft, having its
circumference other than circular, thus giving a reciprocating
motion to any lever actuated by it.--Applied in some districts
to the shedding tappets and picking plates.
=Cellulose=--A botanical term referring to an organic
substance of which the cotton fibre principally consists, and
being composed of six atoms of carbon with five of water, or
C{6}H{10}O{5}.
=Cloth=--The technical name for woven cotton fabrics: although
cloth is the popular name for woollen and worsted fabrics, and
cotton is usually called calico, or some such name, yet in the
trade the name of cloth is always given to cotton goods.
=Compass Board=--Another name for the cumber board.
=Cop=--The cylindrical coil of yarn formed at the mule, or, in
the case of two-fold yarn, at the twiner.
=Cord=--The bands used in attaching the healds to the
heald-rollers, or lambs--_i.e._, heald cords; also a very
coarse thread, used as a heading or stripe border; a name given
to a cloth bearing a stripe, formed by using cord warp yarn;
and also a contraction of corduroy.
=Counts=--A system of indicating the fineness of yarn, written
by placing ’_s_ after the figures signifying the number of
hanks per lb.--thus, “40’s”; otherwise, _grist_ or _numbers_.
=Cover=--A name given to the downy appearance of cloth or yarn.
=Cross-band=--Sometimes applied to yarns spun twist-way, in
contradistinction to _open-band_.
=Cross-border=--A heading to a piece of cloth or handkerchief,
either formed by coloured or other weft, or by a change in the
pattern.
=Cumber Board=--The perforated frame for the guidance of the
harness in the jacquard or some dobby shedding motions.
=Cutting=--The severance of the pile warp or pile weft in a
fabric which requires the slitting of some filament, so as to
produce a nap, formed by short threads presenting their section
on the face of the cloth.
=Cut=--A length of warp required to weave a piece of cloth;
also the piece when woven.
=Deliquescent=--A substance which tends to liquefy in the
air--thus, chloride of magnesium tends to retain dampness and
cause a fabric in which it is present to become moist.
=Dent=--A space between the wires of a reed, otherwise _split_.
=Draft=--A plan showing the order in which the ends are drawn
through the healds (_see_ page 94).
=Elongated Twills=--Twilled cloth, in which the wale extends a
greater distance than usual before reaching the other side of
the fabric, caused by weaving two or more picks before altering
the risen ends forming the wale. These twills do not run at an
angle of 45 degrees.
=End=--The technical name for a thread.
=Entering Draft=--The system of drawing the warp through the
healds (_see_ Draft).
=Fell (of Cloth)=--The edge of the fabric (in the loom) which
has most recently been woven.
=Filling=--_Am. for_ weft.
=Fixing=--_Am. for_ tackling.
=Flue=--One lap of the folded cloth.
=Flushing=--Bringing the warp or weft to the surface of the
cloth without interweaving.
=Fly-reed=--_Sc. for_ loose reed.
=Gaws=--_Sc. for_ goal.
=Gears=--_Sc. for_ healds.
=Goal=--A gap caused in a piece by the cloth being drawn
forward without the weft interweaving, especially when used to
mark the end of a piece.
=Grey=--Yarn or cloth in an undyed or unbleached state.
=Grist=--Synonymous with counts (_Sc._).
=Ground=--That portion of a fabric, usually of a simple weave,
which serves as a base on which to display a figure.
=Hank=--A measurement of yarn. In cotton, 840 yards.
=Harness=--The arrangement of leashes in a jacquard. (_Am. for_
a heald.)
=Heald=--The arrangement of top and bottom staves, carrying the
leashes with eyes for use in stave work.--_Sc._, heddle; _Am._,
harness.
=Lag=--A bar of the lattice used in dobby work.
=Lathe= (_South Lancashire_)--Synonymous with slay.
=Lay=--_Am._ and _Sc. for_ slay.
=Leaf=--A heald or a plate of the shedding tappet--_e.g._,
three-leaf twill = three-stave twill.
=Lingo=--The weight below the leashes in the jacquard.
=L.S.=--Abbreviation of “long stick.”
=Mail-eye=--The aperture in the harness for the reception of
the thread.
=Manufacturing=--(_Vide_ Chapter I.).
=Mash=--(_Vide_ Index).--Otherwise smash, or trap.
=Mitre Wheels=--Bevel wheels which gear with and are exactly
similar to each other.
=Open-band Yarn=--Yarn spun weft-way--that is, twisted over to
the right.
=P.C.=--Pin cop--_i.e._, weft size of cop.
=Pick=--The insertion of a thread of weft; the propulsion of
the shuttle through the shed; the time occupied in the opening
of the shed, the picking, and beating up.--A term used to
signify the number of picks in a quarter-inch.
=Pirn=--A wooden tube on which is wound the weft used for
headings, etc.
=Ply=--A thickness or layer of fabric--thus, two-ply,
three-ply, refer to double or triple cloth.
=Positive Motion=--A motion driven by gearing as distinct from
one driven by friction or some non-positive force.
=Pure Size=--Sizing with vegetable or animal substances, used
for light percentages.
=Range=--A series of cloths similar in style, but varying in
width or other dimensions.
=Reed=--(_Vide_ Chapter III.).--Also the number of ends per
quarter-inch.
=Run=--A stripe of colour in a fabric.
=Scobs=--_Sc. for_ slattering.
=Selvage=--The sides of a fabric.
=Sett=--The fineness of reeds--reed counts. Also signifying the
amount of warp on the beams which are sized at one time.
=Shaft=--A heald.
=Shed=--The opening made in the warp for the passage of the
shuttle; also, a weaving mill.
=Shot=--_Sc. for_ pick.
=Slay=--Otherwise _lay_ or _lathe_ (_vide_ Index).
=Smash=--Synonymous with mash or trap (_vide_ Index).
=Split=--Dent.
=S.S.=--Abbreviation of “short stick.”
=Stave=--Equivalent to shaft.
=Strip=--A narrow bar of heading.
=Stud=--A short projecting pin to carry a wheel or wheels.
=Tapes=--Borders of cramped or coarse warp.
=Tappet=--(_See_ Index).--_Sc. for_ wiper.
=Technical=--Specially appertaining to an industrial art,
business, or profession.
=Technology=--The branch of knowledge dealing with the
systematic study of the industrial arts.
=Terry=--Uncut or loop pile.
=Trap=--Synonymous with mash.
=Trevette=--A knife used in cutting the pile wires out of the
cloth.
=Tuning=--Tackling.
=Turns (per inch)=--The extent of the torsion in yarn.
=T.W.=--Twist-way yarn or thread, which, in being spun, has
been twisted over to the left--distinct from weft-way.
=Tweel=--_Sc. for_ twill.
=Twist=--Warp yarn.
=Up-taking=--_Sc. for_ the take-up motion.
=Warp=--The yarn arranged length-way of the cloth--the full
beam of warp yarn.
=Water T.=--Throstle twist.
=Waves=--Zigzag twill pattern.
=Wax=--Cotton wax is a substance coating the outside of cotton
fibres, and present to the extent of about 1/2 per cent. It is
a brownish horny vegetable wax.
=Weft=--The yarn arranged across the cloth.
=Weft-way=--Yarn twisted over to the right in spinning. Weft
may be either twist-way or weft-way.
=W.W.=--Weft-way.
=Whip-roll=--_Am. for_ back-rest.
=Whip-thread=--The crossing thread in gauze.
=Woof=--The weft.
=Wraith, Wrathe, or Rathe=--The reed comb used for guiding the
yarn to the beam.
=Wrap (Warper’s)=--_Vide_ index.
=Wyper or Wiper=--_Sc. for_ tappets.
=Yarn=--The thread of twisted fibres.
INDEX.
A
Accrington trade, 12
Adhesive substances, 34, 37
American cotton, 16
American trade terms, 165
Analysis of patterns, 90
Antiseptics, 34, 36
Area (circular), 159
Arrangement of looms, 71
Arrangement of shed, 19
B
Back beams, 40
Ball sizing, 48
Ball warping, 30
Ball warps, 29
Bare cloth, 81
Beaming or beam warping, 25
Beating up, 55, 61
Becks, 37
Blackburn dobby, 108
Blackburn pick, 59
Blackburn standard list, 154
Blackburn trade, 11
Black oil, 82
Bleaching, 83
Bobbin warpers, 22
Bolton quilts, 131
Bolton reed counts, 147
Bolton trade, 12
Bottoming, 73, 81
Bradford loom, 58
Brake, 69
Brocade, 130
Bullhide, 102
Burnley trade, 12
Bury trade, 13
C
Calculations for--
Cloth, 149
Counts, 143
Engines, 158
Healds, 148
Jacquards, 129
Reeds, 146
Sizing, 149, 152
Speeds, 76, 156
Capital invested, 9
Card cutting, 127
Carding, 17
Cards for drop-box, 140
_Cartwright’s_ loom, 4
Casting out, 129
Centre tie, 126
Checks, 133
Checked shirtings, 134
China clay, 36
Chloride of magnesium, 36
Chloride of zinc, 36
Circle swivels, 141
Circular boxes, 140
Circumference, to find, 158
Classification of fancy cloths, 89
Cloth, cotton, 80
Cloth, cover of, 81
Cloth, faults in, 81
Cloth looking, 80
Cloth, uneven, 81
Coal, 158
Cockly cloth, 81
Coloured spots, 141
Coloured warping, 28
Coloured winding, 24
Combing, 17
Common dobby, 108
Contraction, 149
Cop, 21
Cop bottoms, 21
Cop nose, 21
Cords, 87, 102
Cotton, 14
Cotton cloth, 80
Cotton cultivation, 14
Cotton districts, 16
Cotton fibre, 14
Cotton lands, 14
Cotton manufacture--syllabus, 161
Cotton plant, 14
Cotton, selection of, 16
Counterpanes, 131
Counts on beam, 153
Counts, reed, 146
Counts, single yarn, 143
Counts, two and three-fold, 145
Cracks, 81
Creel, 25
Cretonnes, 87
Cross borders, 82
Crossing thread, 111
D
Damask, 130
Darwen trade, 12
Designing, 93
Designs, 92
Dhootie marker, 48
Dhooties, 84
Dhooties, figured, 110
Diameter threads, 146
_Diggle’s_ chain, 135
Dimity, 130
Dividend of loom, 66
Divisions of the industry, 1
Dobbies, 100, 103
Dobby sides, 110
Domestics, 85
Double cloth, 109
Double lift, 104
Double yarn, 145
Doup, 77
Doup healds, 112
Draft for plain, 55
Drafting, 94
Drag take-up, 103
Drawing, 17
Drawing-in, 49
Dressing machine, 5
Dressing, old system, 5
Drop box, 134
Drying cylinders, 41
Dwell of slay, 62
E
Eccentricity of slay, 62
Engines, horse-power, 158
Examples wage calculations, 154
Expanding comb, 26, 42
Exports, cotton cloth, 10, 84, 85, 86, 87
F
Factory Acts, 7
Falling rods, 26
Fancy cloth, classification of, 89
Farina, 35
Fast reed, 64
Faults in cloth, 81
Feel, 32
Fermenting flour, 34, 39
Figured canvas, 130
Figured cloth, 90
Figured dhooties, 110
Figured gauze, 130
FIGURES:--
Frontispiece: Single-action jacquard loom
1 Perfect cotton fibre
2 Section of same
3 Imperfect fibre
4 Section of same
5 Seed and fibres
6 Section of fibres
7 Winding frame
8 Traverse (winding)
9 Warping, falling rods
10 Stop-motion warping, elev.
11 " " plan
12 Beam gearing, slasher, section
13 " " elev.
14 Presser " plan
15 " " section
16 Slow motion " plan
17 Dhootie marker
18 Heald
19 Metallic heald
20 Reed
21 Plain loom, front view
22 Plain loom (right hand), back view
23 Bradford loom
24 Diagram--eccentricity of slay
25 Shuttle-box and frog, fast reed
26 Take-up motion
27 Weft stop motion
28 Plain tappet
29 Point paper
30 Plain cloth
31 Plan of cloth
32 Design
33 Draft
34 Lifting plan and tie
35 Draft
36 Draft
37 Design, etc.
38 Draft and tie
39 Sateen
40 Plain
41 Sateen and plain
42 Plate, sateen tappet
43 _Smalley’s_ motion on loom
44 Four-leaf twill
45 Four-leaf twill
46 Velveteen
47 Constitution cord
48 Keighley dobby
49 Dobby lattice
50 Dobby pegging
51 Blackburn dobby
52 Dobby pegging
53 Gauze--sketch
54 Gauze--section
55 Leno--sketch
56 Draft--gauze
57 Doup heald
58 Netting
59 Netting
60 Figured gauze--sketch
61 Handkerchief loom
62 Jacquard--section, single-action
63 Needles, jacquard
64 Double-action jacquard--single cylinder
65 Double-action jacquard--double cylinder
66 London tie
67 Straight tie
68 Lay-over tie
69 Centre tie
70 Piano card-cutting machine
71 _Diggle’s_ chain
72 Chain links for ditto
73 _Wright Shaw’s_ drop box
74 Plates for ditto
_(Also vide Plates.)_
Finishing, 83
Floats, 81
Flour, 34
Flour, testing, 34
Fork and grid motion, 68
Friction--sizing, 43
Fustian, 102
G
Gaiting warps, 72
Gauze, 111
Gingham, 134
Goods made--1800-1860, 8
Goods made--present time, 83
Grist, 143
Ground for jacquard patterns, 109, 129
H
Handkerchiefs, 115, 134
Handkerchief loom, 116
Hands of looms, 71
Hank, 143
Hank, winding from, 25
Haslingden trade, 12
Headings, 82
Headles, 51
Heald counts, 148
Heald motions, 79
Healds, 51
Heck box, 30
Heddles, 51
Heddling, 94
History of trade, 3
Honeycomb, 95, 131
Hooking, 80
Horse-power, 158
Hydrometer, 38
I
ILLUSTRATIONS:--
Beam gearing, slasher, plan, 42
" " section, 43
Blackburn dobby, 107
Bradford loom, 59
Centre tie, 126
Chain links, _Diggle’s_ motion, 137
Constitution cord, 102
Cotton fibre, 15
" section, 15
Design, 92, 96, 98, 101 and 102
Dhootie marker, 47
_Diggle’s_ chain drop box, 136
Dobbies, 104, 107
Dobby pegging, 106, 108
Dobby lattice, 106
Double-action jacquard, Single cylinder, 123
Ditto, double cylinder, 124
Doup healds, 113
Drafts, 92, 94, 95
Eccentricity of slay, 62
Fast reed loom, 64
Figured gauze, 115
Four-leaf twill, 2
Gauze, 112
Handkerchief loom, 116
Healds, 50
Heald motions, 56
Imperfect cotton fibre, 15
" section, 15
Jacquard loom, single action, _Frontispiece_
Jacquard loom, single action, section, 119
Jacquard loom, double action, 123
Jacquard loom, double action, double cylinder, 124
Keighley dobby, 104
Lay-over tie, 126
Leno, 112
Lifting plan, 92, 97
Looms, 53, 59
London tie, 125
Metallic healds, 50
Needles, 122
Netting, 114, 115
Parts of loom, 56
Pegging for dobby, 106, 108
Perfect cotton fibre, 15
Piano card-cutting machine, 128
Plain cloth, 91
Plain loom, 53
Plain loom in parts, 56
Plain tappets, 75
Plates, _Wright Shaw’s_ loom, 140
Point paper, 90
Plan of cloth, 91
Plan of shed--Plate I., 19
Presser, slasher, plan, 45
" section, 45
Reed, 50
Sateen, 98
Sectional warping--Plate III., 29
Seed and fibre, 15
Shuttle box and frog, 64
Slasher sizing machine, 40
Slow motion, 46
_Smalley’s_ motion, 99
Stop motion, warping, plan, 27
" " section, 27
Straight tie, 125
Take-up motion, 26
Tappet plates, 75
Ties, 125, 126
Traverse motion, winding frame, 23
Velveteen, 101
Warping, falling rods, 24
" stop motion, 27
Weft stop motion, 68
Winding frame, 22
_Wright Shaw’s_ drop box, 138
Indian cotton, 16
Ingredients, size, 34
Introduction, 1
Inventions, 3
Ireland, cotton trade of, 14
J
Jacconetts, 86
Jacquard, 119
Capacity, 118
Cards, 120, 127
Cloth, 129
Weaving, 127
K
Keighley dobby, 104
L
Lappet weaving, 142
Lay-over tie, 126
Lease, 30
Leash, 110, 120
Legislation, 6
Length warps, 149, 152
Leno, 88, 112, 114
Liability for mildew, 37
Lifting plan, 96
Limited liability, 7, 9
Linen counts, 144
Long cloths, 85
Long stick, 167
Loom, 52
Loom fixing, 71
Looming, 49
Looms, number of, 11
Loose reed, 4, 63
M
Madapollams, 85
Madras muslin, 130
Manchester trade, 12
Mangle wheel motion, 23
Manufacturing, meaning of term, 1
Manufacturing processes, 19
Market town, 2
Marking motions, 47
Mashes, 81
Measuring motion--warping, 28
" " --weaving, 117
Merchandise Marks Act, 8
Metallic healds, 51
Metal size, 36
Mexicans, 85
Mildew , 36
Mildew, liability for, 37
Mildew, prevention of, 36
Milling up, 149
Mixings, cotton, 17
Mixings, size, 37
Mixings, light size, 39
Mixings, medium size, 39
Mixings, heavy size, 39
Movements of loom, 55
Mull, 86
N
Netting, 115
Non-positive take-up, 103
Number of machines in shed, 19
O
Oatmeal cloth, 109, 129
Oldham trade, 13
Opening, 17
Overlookers (loom), 72
Overpick, 59
_Osbaldeston, John_, 4
P
Packing, 83
Parts of a loom, 55, 56
Pattern pricking, 90
Pegging for dobby, 106, 109, 111
Percentages of size, 33, 38, 149, 153
Percentages of waste, 27, 154
Picking, 55, 59
Pile weaving, 101, 131
Pillow-slip weaving, 109
Plain cloth, 84, 90, 91
Plain drafting, 55
Plain loom, 52
Plaiting, 80
Plan of shed, 18
PLATES:--
I. Plan of shed, 19
II. Stop-motion warping, 27
III. Sectional warping, 29
IV. Slasher sizing machine, 40
V. Plain loom in parts, 56
VI. Heald top motions, 56
VII. Dobbied loom, 104
Point paper, 90
Position of warp, 58
Potato starch, 35
Preparatory processes, 19, 21
Pressers, 45
Preston trade, 12
Printers, 86
Processes, spinning, 17
Processes, weaving, 19
Q
Quilts, 131
R
Raising, 83, 103
Rating goods, 149
Reed and pick, 85
Reed counts, 146
Reeds, 51
Reed space, 79
Reed table, 148
Reedy cloth, 81
Repeating jacquard cards, 128
Rice starch, 35
Ring bobbins, 24
Rochdale trade, 13
Roving, 17
S
Sago, 35
Satin, 98, 100
Sateens, 87
Sateen motion, 99
Scotch reed counts, 147
Scotch trade, 13
Scroll pick, 78
Scutching, 17
Sea Island cotton, 16
Sectional warping, 28
Selection, warp, 21, 33
Selection, weft, 60
Selection, yarns, 21, 60
Shed, 19
Shedding, 57
Shedding motion, 79
Shed (warp), 54, 58
Shirtings, 84
Short stick, 168
Shuttle, 60
Shuttle flying, 73
Shuttle race, 60, 63
Side tappets, 58
Silk counts, 144
Site for shed, 20
Size of warp shed, 58
Sizing calculations, 149, 152
Sizing--drying, 41
Sizing headstock, 42
Sizing machinery, 5, 39
Sizing materials, 34
Sizing--object, 32
Sizing--percentages, 33, 38
Sizing rollers, 40
Sizing under pressure, 41
Slasher, 39
Slashing, 39
Slay, 60
Slow motion, 45
Slubbing, 17
_Smalley’s_ motion, 99
Smash, 81
Snarls, 22
Snicks, 22
Soap, 35
Soda, 36
Softener, 34, 35, 37
Sow box, 40
Specification shed, 19
Speed loom, 79
Speed shafts, 156
Speed tappet shaft, 76
Spindles, number of, 11
Spinning department, 16
Spinning--mule, throstle, ring, 18
Split motion, 78
Split rods, 42
Splits, 77
Standard goods, 88
Starches, 34, 37
Statistics, 9
Steeping flour, 34, 39
Stockport counts, 147
Stockport trade, 13
Stop motion, warping, 26
Straight tie, 125
Stripes, 101, 133
Surat cotton, 16
Syllabus--Cotton manufacture, 161
Syllabus--Weaving and pattern designing, 162
T
Tackling, 72
Take-up motions, 65, 103
Tallow, 35
Taping, 39
Tappets, 55, 57, 75, 97
Tappets, construction, 57, 99
Tappets, plain, 55, 57
[T]-cloth, 85
Terry towels, 132
Temple rollers, 4, 69
Testing yarn, 146
Thick sets, 102
Throstle bobbins, 24
Tie, 97
Tie for jacquard, 124
Toilet cloth, 131
Top motions, 79
Timing, 70
Tooth, 28
Traverse, 23
Treading plan, 97
Turkey-reds, 86
Turkish towels, 132
Twaddle, 38
Twill shaft speed, 76, 157
Twist, 21, 33
Twisting, 49
Two and three-fold yarn, 145
U
Under pick, 78
Uneven cloth, 81
Uplands cotton, 16
V
Varieties of goods, 83
Velveteens, 87, 101
W
Wages--looming, 50
Wages--weaving, 74
Wages--winding, 24
Wages--standard list, 154
_Ward’s_ dobby, 105
Warp, 21, 33
Warping (beam), 25
Warping calculations, 28, 29, 30, 152
Warping mill, 30
Warping several counts, 28
Warping stop motion, 26
Warp line, 58
Warp pile, 90, 131
Waste, 27, 74
Waste, weaver’s, 74
Wax, 35
Weavers, 74
Weaving, 52
Weaving and pattern designing syllabus, 162
Weft, 61
Weft pile, 101
Weft stop motion, 4, 67
Weight-giving size, 36
Weight piece, 149
Weight size in piece, 149, 153
Weight warp in piece, 149
Weight weft in piece, 149
Winding, 22
Winding frame, 22
Witch machine, 108
Working design, 97
Workpeople, number of, 11
Worsted counts, 144
Woven pile, 90, 101, 131
Wrap reel, 144
Wrap, warpers’, 28
Wrapping, 144
_Wright Shaw’s_ drop box, 138
Y
Yarn calculations, 143
Yarn measure, 143
Yorkshire loom, 58
Z
Zinc, muriate of, 36
[Illustration: Decoration]
PRINTED BY BALLANTYNE, HANSON AND CO.
EDINBURGH AND LONDON
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BRANCHES AT LIVERSEDGE AND BRIGHOUSE, YORKS.
_Cloth, Crown 8vo. Second Edition. 3s. 6d._
Weaving
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BY THE SAME AUTHOR.
A Volume on all Varieties of Calculations Required in the Weaving and
Preparatory Processes, Standard Lists of Wages, &c.
OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.
"Mr. BROOKS is well and favourably known in the textile industries
as a writer of excellent text-books in connection with the cotton
trade.... In this book he has succeeded in doing the work, avoiding on
the one hand intricate mathematical problems, which are discarded in
practice, and on the other giving clear and simple rules for making all
the calculations required in the spinning and manufacturing of cotton
goods."--_Textile Recorder._
"Hitherto the books published on weaving calculations have lacked
the thorough instruction which characterises Mr. BROOKS’S brochure,
and many cotton students will find it a decidedly useful guide. The
chapters on cloth and yarn calculations will be found decidedly useful
and interesting. Mr. Brooks is to be congratulated on placing before
the trade a _vade mecum_ of considerable merit."--_Textile World._
"This is one of the most useful works connected with cotton
manufacturing that we have ever seen. No overseer or any one having to
do with calculations in a cotton-mill should be without it."--_Boston
Journal of Commerce, U.S.A._
"The author of this book is well known for his excellent work on
‘Cotton Manufacturing,’ which deals very fully with all operations
involved in the industry. These calculations will also be found
extremely useful to those for whom it is intended. It has been
carefully written, and should have a place on every weaving
bookshelf."--_Textile Manufacturer._
&c. &c.
ASA LEES & CO.,
Limited,
Soho Iron Works,
OLDHAM.
_Address for Telegrams_--ASA, OLDHAM.
Constructors of
ALL KINDS OF MACHINERY
_for_
_Preparing, Spinning & Doubling_
COTTON AND WOOL.
NEW AND IMPORTANT TECHNICAL WORKS.
THE “STUDENTS’ COTTON SPINNING,”
By JOSEPH NASMITH,
Associate Institution Mechanical Engineers; Member Manchester
Association Engineers; Editor of “Textile Recorder;” Author of “Modern
Cotton Spinning Machinery.”
"A book which, viewed as a whole, is admirably adapted for its
purpose."--_Manchester Guardian._
"‘The Student’s Cotton Spinning’ is a work we can unhesitatingly
recommend."--_Textile Manufacturer._
"The information is derived from the most modern sources, and will
be found of permanent value to those connected with the cotton
industry."--_Industries._
"The work appears to cover the whole field, even to the minutest
detail."--_Manchester City News._
"Its pages abound in practical hints."--_Wool and Cotton Reporter_
(Boston, U.S.A.).
"The book should be in the hands of every wide-awake manufacturer and
spinner."--_Boston Journal of Commerce._
"A volume which will be found valuable, not only to the student,
but to the men who know something but want to learn more of the art
of spinning and to study the subject in a practical way."--_Textile
Record_ (Philadelphia, U.S.A.).
"After careful study of the work, our reviewer is of opinion that it is
unequalled by any other book of cotton literature."--_Indian Textile
Journal._
"The book we cannot recommend too warmly, not only to students,
but also to all technical men, and spinning managers engaged in
practice."--_Oesterich’s Wollen und Lienen Industrie._
The Book contains 448 Pages and 100 Illustrations, and forms a Complete
Handbook on the subject. =PRICE 6s.=
By the same Author.
“MODERN COTTON SPINNING MACHINERY,”
ITS PRINCIPLES AND CONSTRUCTION.
232 Detailed Drawings of the Latest Types of Machines.
_Price 15s., delivered free in the United Kingdom._
"The best and most complete book extant on the machinery employed in
cotton spinning."--_Textile Manufacturer_, September 15, 1890.
"No student or spinner should be without it."--_Textile Manufacturer_,
October 15, 1890.
"Cannot fail to be the standard authority for many years."--_Textile
Recorder_, November 15, 1890.
"Has the essential merit of attaining what it aims at--namely,
completeness."--_Manchester Examiner and Times._
"A work of great value to all who are interested in the manufacture or
use of cotton spinning machinery."--_Manchester Guardian._
MANCHESTER: JOSEPH NASMITH, 61 Barton Arcade.
Established 1791.
JOHN WHITELEY & SONS, Limited,
BRUNSWICK MILLS,
HALIFAX, ENGLAND.
Manufacturers of Card Clothing in Mild, and Hardened and Tempered
Steel Wire, for Cotton, Wool, Worsted, and Silk, with Round, Flat,
Flat-to-Bend, Angular, and Convex Wire, Plated Wire, Music Wire, and
GROUND NEEDLE POINTS.
PATENT SPECIAL
POLISHED _PLOUGH-GROUND_ CARD CLOTHING.
The Sides of the Teeth of the _Plough-Ground_ Card Clothing made by
JOHN WHITELEY & SONS, Limited, are so smooth that it is being used
extensively on the Finest Cottons. We shall be glad to furnish Users
with enlarged Micro-Photographs illustrating the remarkable smoothness
attained.
IMPROVED TAKERS-IN AND DIRT ROLLERS.
Card Tacks. Gauges for Setting Cylinders, Doffers, Flats,
&c. Flats Re-cut and Clothed with Whiteley’s Patent Clasp,
Ashworth’s Methods or Lead Rivets, and Trued, Tested, and
Ground ready for use.
WHITELEY’S IMPROVED TENSION MACHINE FOR MOUNTING FILLETS.
NEEDLE-POINTED STRIPPING ROLLERS, BURNISHING BRUSHES, SPIRAL FLAT
STRIPPING BRUSHES.
CARDING ENGINES CLOTHED, GROUND, AND STARTED BY EXPERIENCED MEN.
_Samples and Estimates on Application._
JAMES BRIGGS & SONS,
LION OIL WORKS,
BLACKLEY, MANCHESTER.
MANUFACTURERS OF
ALL CLASSES OF OILS
for
MACHINERY,
SPINDLES AND LOOMS.
OILS
for
MARINE AND STATIONARY ENGINES.
OILS for SHAFTING, CYLINDERS, AND VALVES.
_As Used by some of the Largest Mills, Steamships, &c._
Cable and Telegraphic Address--“SAMOHT, MANCHESTER.”
GEO. THOMAS & CO.,
28 DEANSGATE, MANCHESTER,
_ENGINEERS, CONTRACTORS, and EXPORTERS of all Classes of MACHINERY and
ACCESSORIES, &c._
N.B.--Representatives in all the Industrial Centres of the World.
MACHINERY for SPINNING and WEAVING Cotton, Wool, Worsted, Flax, Hemp,
Jute, Silk, &c. BLEACHING, DYEING, PRINTING, FINISHING Textile Fabrics.
Steam Boilers, Steam Engines, Economisers, Turbines, Mill
Gearing, Electric Lighting and Gas Plant; Hoists, &c.
Ironwork for Mills from A to Z--Fireproof, &c., Roofing and
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Paper, Rice, Sugar, Ice, Flour, Oil, Chemical, Distillery, Iron
and Steel Plants.
Portable and Permanent Railway Plant, Rolling Stock,
Locomotives, Steam Ships, Steam Launches, Dredgers, &c.
Hydraulic Machinery and Tools.
SOLE MAKERS AND PROPRIETORS OF THE
PATENT UNIVERSAL YARN ASSORTING BALANCES.
British Patent, No. 6,703, 1886. U.S.A. Patent, No. 380,826, 1888. New
Patents, No. 15,454 1889, and No. 9,264, 1890.=
_N.B_.--These Balances or Yarn Testers (indispensable to
Spinners, Manufacturers, and Merchants) indicate the Counts of
Yarn in small lengths, or from bits of cloth, in either Cotton,
Woollen, Worsted, Linen, Jute, or other Fibre.
“SIMPLEX” BALANCE.
[Illustration: Scale, 4/5ths full size. Price 30s. complete]
[Illustration: Scale, 1/5th full size. Price 65s.]
_Crown 8vo. Paper Covers. One Shilling._
Weaving Examination Questions.
CONTENTS.--Six Years’ Weaving and Pattern Designing
Questions.--Lists of Examiners, Rules of Examination, &c.--The
Syllabus for Study in each of the following Subjects:--Woollen
and Worsted Cloth Weaving, Cotton Weaving, Linen Weaving, Silk
Weaving, and Jute Weaving.
_Post Free, 1s. 1d._
C. P. BROOKS, THE MOUNT, BLACKBURN.
BOBBINS, TUBES, SKEWERS, SHUTTLES, &c.
WILSON BROTHERS, LIMITED.
Cornholme Mills, TODMORDEN.
Telegrams--WILSONS, CORNHOLME. Telephone, No. 7.
ORIGINAL INVENTORS AND MAKERS OF STEEL AND BRASS PLATED
BOBBINS AND TUBES.
We make a speciality of =Light Cardroom Tubes= with small diameters
for fine counts. We have excellent facilities for cutting, seasoning,
and partially preparing both Tubes and Bobbins before turning. We have
large stocks of regular sizes always seasoning, the process occupying
from two months up to two years. We are thus enabled to guarantee
=exact and uniform diameters=.
We are the largest makers of =Ring Twist Bobbins= and =Ring Weft
Pirns=. Every Bobbin is carefully balanced. =Rabbeth Ring Twist
Bobbins, with Wilson Brothers’ Patent “G” Shield=, are the strongest
Bobbins in the market, and capable of resisting 50 per cent. more
pressure than any other protected Bobbins, and 150 per cent. more than
Bobbins without metal Protectors.
=Warping and Winding Bobbins= fitted with =Wilson Brothers’ Patent
Flange Binders= cannot open at the Joints, and are so made that it is
almost impossible for them to be broken with ordinary usage.
We have put down a plant for making =Wood= Bobbins and Skewers =Damp
and Steam Proof=. We Enamel Rabbeth Ring Twist and Ring Weft Pirns,
also Lancewood Cop Skewers, so that Yarn can be conditioned on the
Bobbin or Skewer without damage.
_THE OLDEST JACQUARD MACHINISTS IN THE WORLD._
DEVOGE & CO.
Works--SYCAMORE STREET, OLDHAM ROAD,}
City Office--15a YORK STREET, } MANCHESTER.
MANUFACTURERS OF ALL KINDS OF
JACQUARD MACHINES.
Single-Lift, Double-Lift, Double-Cylinder, and Compound Jacquards;
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Jacquard Dobbies; Driving Motions; all kinds of Wire and Wire Work;
Lead and Iron Wire Lingoes; Comberboards and Slips; Glass, Brass, and
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every requisite for Fancy Weaving.
NEW PATENT LENO JACQUARD.
JACQUARD HARNESS BUILDERS.
_ALL KINDS OF HARNESSES, INCLUDING PATENT EXPANDING HARNESS._
NEW PLANT RECENTLY ERECTED FOR BORING COMBERBOARD SLIPS.
MAKERS OF ALL KINDS OF
Card-Cutting Machines.
Piano Machines to cut from design; Table Repeaters, with Vertical and
Railway Presses; Card Cutting Plates and Punches of every kind; and
Devoge’s celebrated Self-Acting Repeater, which cuts 40 Cards per
minute.
_Illustrations of three of our Machines may be seen on pages 123, 124,
and 128 of this work._
An Illustrated Circular will be sent on application.
JAMES WALMSLEY & SONS
(ESTABLISHED 1848),
Leather Curriers, Strapping Manufacturers, and Mill Furnishers
WORKS:--AVENUE PARADE,
ACCRINGTON.
MAKERS OF ALL KINDS OF
ROLLER SKINS,
SINGLE LEATHER BELTING,
DOUBLE LEATHER BELTING,
GREEN PICKING BANDS,
OAK-TANNED PICKING BANDS,
LEATHER PICKERS, LACES,
BUFFALO SKIPS AND PICKERS,
LOOM FITTINGS, &c.
And all other kinds of =LEATHER GOODS= used in the Spinning and
Manufacturing of Cotton, Woollen, Silk, or Jute.
Telegrams--“Abbey, Accrington.”
Telephone--No. 23.
JOSEPH CASARTELLI,
MANUFACTURER OF ALL KINDS OF
_INSTRUMENTS FOR USE IN MILLS, MANUFACTORIES, ENGINEERING WORKS, &c._
[Illustration]
NEW MICROSCOPE CLOTH COUNTING GLASS OF HIGH POWER, suitable for
counting all Cloths and Coloured Borders.
FOLDING CLOTH COUNTING GLASSES, English and Foreign Measurements, of
_Guaranteed Accuracy_
_PATENT IMPROVED RICHARDS’ STEAM ENGINE INDICATORS AND SPRINGS._
PRESSURE AND VACUUM GAUGES, ENGINE COUNTERS, THERMOMETERS, HYGROMETERS,
PYROMETERS, &c., &c.
_Illustrated Price List Post Free._
43 MARKET STREET, MANCHESTER.
Established upwards of Seventy Years.
SIZING INGREDIENTS
AND
FILLING MATERIALS
Used by Sizers, Manufacturers, Finishers, &c.
Solid and Liquid Chloride of Zinc. } _Pure_
Chloride of Calcium and Magnesium. } _Anti-Septics._
China Clay, French Chalk, and Barytes.
Epsom and Glauber Salts. Hard and Soft Soaps.
Paraffin, Spermaceti and Japan Wax.
Sizing Grease, Composition, and Tallow.
Cocoa Nut, Palm, Castor, and Olive Oils.
Soluble Oil, Oleine, Glycerine, and Glucose.
Soluble Blue, Colours, and Irish Moss.
Sago, Rice, Tapioca, and Wheat Sizing Flour.
Scotch and Foreign Farina. Dextrine and Gum.
Maize, Wheat, Potato, and Rice Starch.
Gum Tragacanth, Gelatine, and Bone Size.
SOLE MAKERS OF LANCASHIRE ACME SIZE.
SOLE AGENTS FOR THE GLOY MANUFACTURING CO.
STOCKS KEPT FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY.
Shipping Orders Carefully Packed.
A long experience among Sizers and Finishers often enables us to
materially help our clients to get at results they specially want.
For Prices, Samples, Particulars, &c., apply to
ADLEY, TOLKIEN, & CO.,
Chemical Manufacturers, Drysalters, and Produce Merchants,
NOVAS CHEMICAL WORKS,
Paterson Street, BLACKBURN.
Telegraphic Address:--"ADTOLCO, BLACKBURN. Telephone No. 184.
Manchester Royal Exchange:--Box 40 and Pillar 12, every Tuesday and
Friday.
London Office:--14 to 20 St. MARY AXE, e.c.
London Works:--Penton Street, PENTONVILLE, n.
Established 1843.
Telegrams--“KERSHAW, HOLLINWOOD.”
JOSEPH KERSHAW & CO.’S
_NON-CONDUCTING COMPOSITION_
IS pronounced by practical Civil, Gas, Mining, and other Engineers, and
a large number of Firms who have tested its value, to be the =Best=,
=Most Durable=, and =Cheapest Non-Conducting Material= in the market,
effecting a considerable saving in fuel by preventing the radiation of
heat. Saves cost in a few weeks. Will not burn. Numerous Testimonials,
and over Nine Thousand References.
Some idea may be gathered of the saving effected by our Composition
from the fact that in scores of cases extending over a period of twenty
years, where concerns have been worked by four boilers, after being
coated with our Composition they have been enabled to work the concern
with three boilers, and allow one to be at rest.
Will Last Twenty Years. Does not Shrink.
Awarded Certificate of Merit at the Industrial and Art Exhibition,
Manchester, 1880. The only Award given in this Department, after a
severe competition with other competitors, and Honourable Mention
at Manchester Smoke Abatement Exhibition, 1882. See page 182 of the
Official Report of the Smoke Abatement Committee, held at Grosvenor
House, Grosvenor Square, London, on Friday, July 14, 1882, under the
Presidency of His Grace the Duke of Westminster, K.G.
ASBESTOS COATING, SILICATE COTTON OR SLAG WOOL COATING.
WHEEL GREASES.
LOCOMOTIVE AND WATER WHEEL GREASES.
Rope Driving Composition.
Black and Brown Banding Compositions.
RED, BLACK, AND OTHER COLOURED VARNISHES.
DETERGENT COMPOSITION,
For Removing and Preventing Scale in Steam Boilers.
Lead Ore. Engine and Bolton Polishes. White Curd Soap.
White Soft Soap, for Cop Bottoms. Soft Soap. Belting Syrup.
White Lead. Oxide and Other Coloured Paints.
_In Extra Strong Casks for Exportation._
GREASE, VARNISH, COMPOSITION, AND SOAP WORKS,
HOLLINWOOD, near OLDHAM.
HOWARD & BULLOUGH, Limited,
ACCRINGTON (England),
MAKERS OF
Cotton Spinning and Manufacturing
MACHINERY
Of the most modern and approved principle, with all Brackets and
Seatings milled by Special Machinery to Standard Templets.
_SPECIALITIES_:
ANGLO-AMERICAN OPENERS AND SCUTCHERS.
New Patent REVOLTING FLAT CARDING ENGINE,
With =rigid= bend--110 Flats--43 working. Over 6000 Cards at work.
DRAWING FRAMES, with Electric Stop Motion.
Reliable--quick--not liable to get out of order. Already applied to
over 35,000 deliveries.
SLUBBING, INTERMEDIATE, & ROVING FRAMES,
With Patent Differential Motion, Patent Cone Lifting Motion, Patent Cap
Bars, and Patent Method of Balancing Top Rail, &c., &c.
We have applied Electric Stop Motion to over 200,000 Intermediate
Spindles with marked success for the prevention of “Single.”
RING SPINNING FRAME.
THE LARGEST MAKERS IN THE WORLD.
Over 4,500,000 Spindles supplied.
RING WEFT FRAMES.
References given on application, comprising leading and extensive mills
where the Weft Ring has entirely displaced the Mule.
RING DOUBLING FRAMES,
Made on either the English or Scotch System,
For Ordinary Doubling or for Sewing Cottons.
COMPOUND SIZING MACHINES.
One 9 ft. Cavity Cylinder and 3 to 7 Fans.
=Howard & Bullough’s Air-Drying and Cylinder Sizing= Machines
of all sizes from 3 ft. to 9 ft., in Tin and Copper, with
some or all of the following improvements, are found in all
countries wherever Cotton Manufacturing is carried on.
=Hitchon’s Patent Safety Compound Friction Motion= for coarse
or fine counts.
=Hitchon’s Patent “Self-Traversing” Yarn Beam Presser.=
=Hitchon’s Patent "Self-Expanding and Contracting"= Double
Roller Yarn Beam Presser.
=Hitchon’s Patent Adjustable Measuring Indicator=, will mark
any length of yarn from 1/4 to 200 yards or metres (REQUIRES NO
CHANGE WHEELS).
=Hitchon’s Patent "Self-Regulating"= High Pressure Size Boiler.
=Hitchon’s Patent Yarn Relieving Motion= for size box.
=New Patent Light Running Beaming Machine= (“Improved
Singleton”), with Patent Self-Stopping Measuring Motion,
adjustable for any number of yards.
This machine has so rapidly superseded all others--our own six patents
included--as to be practically the =only one recognised in the market=.
HOWARD & BULLOUGH, Limited,
ACCRINGTON, LANCASHIRE.
Accrington is distant from Manchester only 20 miles. Frequent
trains run daily from Victoria or Salford Stations on the
Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway.
[Illustration: Paris, 1878.]
[Illustration: London, 1885.]
Attend Exchange, Manchester, every Tuesday and Friday, No. 10 Pillar,
One to Two o’clock.
ESTABLISHED 1863.
Practical Experience in Weaving and Loom Making for 36 Years.
HENRY LIVESEY, Limited,
BLACKBURN,
MAKERS of LOOMS
For Weaving Printers, Shirtings, T Cloths, Domestics, Linen and Sail
Cloths, Double Lift Dobbies up to 40 Shafts.
Makers of the Improved “Slasher” Sizing, Cop and =Ring Winding= and
Self-stopping =Beaming= Machines, =Plaiting= Machines, =Looming= and
=Drawing-in= Frames, &c. =Drum= Winding and =Spooling= Machines for
Coloured Yarns, =Hydraulic= Cloth Presses, &c., &c. Makers also of
=Bobbins=, =Tubes=, =Shuttles=, =Pickers=, &c., &c. Loom Sides Planed
and Cross Rails cut to exact length.
[Illustration]
CRANK and TAPPET SHAFT BUSHES, also BEARINGS of PICKING SHAFTS, with
their respective SEATINGS on Loom Sides, are Planed; these improvements
secure more solidity in build of Loom, and thereby effect a great
saving in wear and tear, require less power, and give more uniform
working with greater speed.
[Illustration]
_Illustrated Catalogues on Application._
Plans and Estimates furnished for every description of Weaving
Machinery.
Transcriber’s notes:
In the text version, italics are represented by _underscores_, and bold
and black letter text by =equals= symbols. Superscripts are represented
by ^{} and subscripts by _{}.
Missing or incorrect punctuation has been repaired. Inconsistent
spelling and hyphenation have been left. This book uses both high level
and standard "." in decimal numbers.
In the html version, dittos have been replaced by the repeated text so
that text alignes for easier reading.
The following mistakes have been noted:
p. 12. Egyptain changed to Egyptian.
p. 18. Symbol [C] represents a C rotated by +90deg.
p. 25. Symbol [V] represents a large V symbol.
p. 56. Labels, 31, 133 and 156 - 162 are missing.
p. 85. Symbol [T] represents a large T.
p. 86. similiar has been changed to similar.
p. 93. tranferred has been changed to transferred.
p. 109. thus-- changed to :-- to match next paragraph.
p. 153. For the calculation on actual size at the bottom of this page to make
sense, 2600 should be 26000. This has been left unchanged
Adverts. p. 13. Telegraphic Address:--"ADTOLCO, BLACKBURN. Telephone No. 184.
has no closing quote, this has been left.