Produced by Arjan Moraal, David Starner and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team.
MADE-OVER DISHES
BY MRS. S. T. RORER
Author of Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book, Philadelphia Cook Book, Bread and
Bread-Making, and other Valuable Works on Cookery.
Revised and Enlarged Edition
CONTENTS
Preface
Stock
Cooked Fish
Meat
Beef--Uncooked
Beef--Cooked
Mutton--Uncooked
Mutton--Cooked
Chicken--Uncooked
Chicken--Cooked
Game
Bread
Eggs
Potatoes
Cold Boiled
Cheese
Sauces
Salads
Cereals
Vegetables
Fruits
Sour Milk and Cream
PREFACE
Wise forethought, which means economy, stands as the first of domestic
duties. Poverty in no way affects skill in the preparation of food. The
object of cooking is to draw out the proper flavor of each individual
ingredient used in the preparation of a dish, and render it more easy of
digestion. Admirable flavorings are given by the little leftovers of
vegetables that too often find their way into the garbage bucket.
Economical marketing does not mean the purchase of inferior articles at a
cheap price, but of a small quantity of the best materials found in the
market; these materials to be wisely and economically used. Small quantity
and no waste, just enough and not a piece too much, is a good rule to
remember. In roasts and steaks, however, there will be, in spite of
careful buying, bits left over, that, if economically used, may be
converted into palatable, sightly and wholesome dishes for the next day's
lunch or supper.
Never purchase the so-called tender meat for stews, Hamburg steaks or
soups; nor should you purchase a round or shoulder steak for broiling, nor
an old chicken for roasting. Select a fowl for a fricassee, a chicken for
roasting, and a so-called spring chicken for broiling. Each has its own
individual price and place.
Save for stock, every bone, whether beef, mutton, poultry or game, as well
as all the juices that are left in the meat carving dishes on the table,
and the water in which meats are boiled and in which certain vegetables
are boiled. Into this storehouse--for such a stock pot is--will go also
the tough ends from the rib roasts, which would become tasteless and dry
if roasted; the bits that are taken from the French chops; the bone that
is left on the plate from the sirloin steak; and every piece of the
carcass left on the general carving plate of all sorts of game and
poultry. After the meat has been taken from the roast, these bones will
also be used.
STOCK
In all good cooking there is a constant demand for a half pint or a pint
of stock. Brown sauce and tomato sauce, in fact, all meat sauces, are
decidedly better made from stock than water, and as it comes to every
household without the additional cost of a penny, there is no excuse
whatever for being without it. Save the bones collected on Saturday,
Sunday and Monday. Chicken and veal bones may be kept together; beef,
mutton and ham in another lot; one makes a white stock, the other brown.
If the quantity is small, put them all together. Crack the bones, put them
in the bottom of a large soup kettle, cover with cold water, bring slowly
to boiling point and skim. Push the kettle to the back part of the stove,
where the stock may simmer for at least three hours, then add an onion
into which you have stuck twelve cloves, a bay leaf, a few celery tops, or
a little celery seed, and a carrot cut into slices; simmer gently for
another hour and strain. Tuesdays and Saturdays are the best days for
making stock, as they are the days on which you have long, continuous
fires; Tuesdays for ironing purposes; Saturdays for bread baking; in this
way you will economize in coal, heat and time.
In making tomato soup, to each pint of tomatoes add a pint of this stock
instead of water; or the stock may be simply heated, nicely seasoned and
used as clear soup. By adding a little cooked rice or macaroni, you will
have a rice or a macaroni soup.
In cream soups, where stock takes the place of water, less milk gives
equal, perhaps better, results. For instance, in cream of celery soup,
cover the celery with cold stock instead of water, using a quart instead
of a pint of water, and then use only a pint of milk, having in the end
the same quantity of a much more tasty soup at a less cost. One soon
learns that all made-over dishes are more savory where stock is used in
place of water. If peas, beans or cabbage are being cooked, this water may
be added to that in which beef or mutton has been boiled, the whole
reduced carefully by rapid boiling, strained and put aside for use.
COOKED FISH
Canapés
Cold boiled fish makes excellent canapés. To each half pint of fish allow
six squares of toasted bread. If you have any cold boiled potatoes left
over, add milk to them, make them hot and put them into a pastry bag.
Decorate the edge of the toast with these mashed potatoes, using a small
star tube; put them back in the oven until light brown. Make the fish
into a creamed fish. Rub the butter and flour together, add a half pint of
milk, add the fish and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper. Dish the
centers on top of the toast with this creamed fish and send at once to the
table. A very little fish here makes a good showing, and is one of the
nicest of the hot canapés.
Baked Sardines
After sardines have once been opened it is best to remove them from the
can and make them into some dish for the next meal. They may be broiled
and served on toast, or made with bread crumbs into sardine balls and
fried, or baked. To bake them, stir the oil from the can into a half
cupful of water, add a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, a half
teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper. Put the fish into a baking pan,
run them into the oven until very hot, then dish them, baste them with the
sauce and send them at once to the table.
Fish Croquettes
Any cold boiled fish that is left over may be made into croquettes. To
each cupful of the cold fish allow one level tablespoonful of butter, two
level tablespoonfuls of flour and a half cupful of milk. Rub the butter
and flour together, add the milk; when boiling take from the fire. Add to
the fish a level teaspoonful of salt, a dash of black pepper, a
tablespoonful of chopped parsley and a few drops of onion juice; mix this
carefully with the paste and turn out to cool. When cold, form into small
cylinders, dip in beaten egg and fry in deep hot fat.
Fish à la Crême
One pint of cold boiled fish, mixed with a half pint of white sauce. Turn
this into a baking dish and brown. Or when the two are carefully heated
together, serve in either ramekin dishes or in a border of browned mashed
potatoes.
MEAT
As meat is the most costly and extravagant of all articles of food, it
behooves the housewife to save all left-overs and work them over into
other dishes. The so-called inferior pieces--not inferior because they
contain less nourishment, but inferior because the demand for such meat is
less--should be used for all dishes that are chopped before cooking, as
Hamburg steaks, curry balls, kibbee, or for stews, ragouts, pot roasts and
various dishes where a sauce is used to hide the inferiority and ugliness
of the dish. We have no occasion here to spend money on good looks.
If one purchases meat for soup, the leg and shin are the better parts.
This, however, is not necessary in the ordinary family, as there are
always sufficient bones left over for daily stock. All meat left over from
beef tea, tasteless as it is, may be nicely seasoned and made into curries
or into pressed meat, giving again a nice dish for lunch or supper.
Remember, that where the flavoring of the beef has been drawn out into the
water, as in making beef tea, another decided flavor must be added to make
the made-over dish palatable. For this reason, curries, pressed meats,
served with either Worcestershire or tomato sauce, are chosen.
Cold mutton may be made into pilau, hashed on toast with tomato sauce,
hashed with caper sauce, made into escalloped mutton, barbecued mutton,
casserole, or macaroni timbale; all sightly dishes, quite handsome enough
to place before the choicest guest. Spiced meats, as beef _à la
mode_, may be served cold with cream horseradish sauce and aspic jelly.
If warm, they will be made into ragouts, or some form of dish with a brown
or tomato sauce. It is well to bear in mind that white meats will be
served with white or yellow sauces; dark meats with brown or tomato
sauces. The coarse tops of the sirloin steak, the tough end of the rump
steak, if broiled, cannot possibly be eaten, as the dry heat renders them
difficult of mastication. Cut them off before the steak is broiled, and
put them aside to use for Hamburg steaks, curry balls, timbale or
cannelon, making a new and sightly dish from that which would otherwise
have been thrown away.
If you use ham, and have had a piece boiled, after the even slices are
taken off, chip the remaining tender pieces for frizzled ham, making it as
frizzled beef is made. The bits around the bone that cannot possibly be
sliced, will be chopped and made into potted or deviled ham. Throw the
bone into the stock pot.
A meat chopper or grinder, which costs but a dollar and a half or two
dollars, will save its price in the utility of these scraps in less than a
month.
The water in which you boil a leg of mutton, chicken, turkey or a fresh
beef's tongue, or such vegetables as string beans, peas, rice, macaroni or
barley, put aside and use in place of plain water to cover the bones for
stock-making. The water in which cabbage is boiled should be saved alone
and used the next day for a soup Crécy; the flavor of the cabbage, with a
carrot that has been slightly browned in butter, makes a delightful soup
without the addition of meat.
BEEF--UNCOOKED
The uncooked tough bits or pieces of beef may be made into any of the
following dishes:
Kibbee
Chop uncooked tough meat very fine; put it twice through a grinder. To
each pound, allow a tablespoonful of grated onion, a tablespoonful of
chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of salt, just a dash of pepper, and a half
cup of toasted piñon nuts. Form into balls about the size of an egg,
stand in a baking pan, add a half pint of strained tomatoes, a
tablespoonful of butter, and bake slowly thirty minutes, basting three or
four times. If more than one pound of meat is used, all the ingredients
must be increased accordingly.
Hamburg Steaks
The genuine Hamburg steaks are rich in onion and very rich in fatty
matter, too much so to be wholesome; so we will modify them, that they may
be eaten even by dyspeptics or persons with weak digestion. Put twice
through a meat chopper the tough ends of steaks or bits of the round. To
each pound of this meat allow a half teaspoonful of celery seed, a
teaspoonful of grated onion. Form into thick even cakes, being sure that
the center and sides are the same thickness. These may now be broiled
over a clear fire, or under the gas lights in your gas broiler, or they
may be dropped into a thoroughly heated iron pan. As soon as browned on
one side, turn and brown the other. If the steaks are an inch thick, it
will take eight minutes for perfect cooking. An exceedingly satisfactory
way is to brown them quickly over a hot fire, then put the pan in the oven
and allow them to cook for five minutes. Dust with salt, season with a
little butter and pepper, and send to the table on a very hot dish; or
serve with brown or tomato sauce. If they have been cooked over the fire,
or in the oven, put a tablespoonful of butter into the pan in which they
were cooked, add a tablespoonful of flour, a half cup of stock, and a half
cup of strained tomatoes. When boiling, add a teaspoonful of salt, a dash
of pepper, and pour over the steaks.
Cannelon
Put twice through the meat chopper one pound of tough meat, season with a
teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and, if you like, a little celery
seed or chopped celery top; take this chopped meat into your hands, and
form it into a roll about four inches in diameter and six inches long.
Roll this in a piece of oiled paper, put it in a baking pan, bake in a
quick oven thirty minutes, basting the paper with melted butter three or
four times. When done, remove the paper, dish the cannelon, and pour
around plain tomato sauce.
Brown stew
Cut any left-over pieces of uncooked tough meat into cubes of one inch.
Put a couple of tablespoonfuls of suet into a saucepan; when rendered out,
remove the cracklings. Dust the bits of meat with a tablespoonful of
flour, throw them into the hot suet, and shake until brown. Draw the meat
to one side, and add to the fat in the pan a second tablespoonful of
flour; mix, add one pint of water or stock, stir until boiling, add a
teaspoonful of salt, a bay leaf, slice of onion, a teaspoonful of browning
or kitchen bouquet; cover and simmer gently until the meat is tender,
about an hour and a half. The proportions given here are for one pound of
beef. This may be served plain, or in a border of rice, or with dumplings.
If dumplings, put a pint of flour into a bowl, add a teaspoonful of salt
and one of baking powder; mix thoroughly and add sufficient milk to just
moisten; drop by spoonfuls over the top of the stew, cover the saucepan
and cook for ten minutes. Do not lift cover during the ten minutes or the
dumplings will fall.
Beef Timbale
Chop fine any left-over tough bits of lean beef. Cook together for a
moment a gill of strained tomatoes and one cup of bread crumbs; add to the
meat, rub to a smooth paste, season with a quarter of a teaspoonful of
celery seed, a half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper; mix, and
then stir in carefully the well-beaten whites of two eggs; fill into
custard cups, stand in a pan of boiling water, and cook in a moderate oven
twenty minutes. Serve with tomato sauce. This recipe is for one pound of
beef.
BEEF--COOKED
Ragout
Cut pieces of cold boiled or roasted beef into cubes of one inch; to each
quart of this allow two tablespoonfuls of butter, two of flour and a pint
of stock. Rub the butter and flour together, add the stock, stir until
boiling; add a tablespoonful of onion juice, a teaspoonful of browning or
kitchen bouquet, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of tomato catsup,
a tablespoonful of chopped parsley; add the meat; stand over the back part
of the stove until thoroughly hot; serve on a heated platter garnished
with triangular pieces of toasted bread. A few left-over olives,
mushrooms, or even a chopped truffle, may be added.
Bresleau
Chop sufficient cold cooked meat to make one pint, season it with a
teaspoonful of salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper. Put a half
cup of stock or water, two tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs and a
tablespoonful of butter over the fire; when hot, add to it the meat; take
from the fire and stir in carefully two well-beaten eggs. Put this in
greased custard cups, stand them in a baking pan half filled with boiling
water, and bake in a moderate oven fifteen or twenty minutes; serve with
tomato sauce or sauce Béchamel.
Beef Croquettes
Chop sufficient cold cooked beef to make one pint; add to it a teaspoonful
of salt, a teaspoonful of onion juice, a dash of cayenne, a quarter of a
teaspoonful of pepper, and a grating of nutmeg. Put a half pint of milk
over the fire. Rub together one tablespoonful of butter and two
tablespoonfuls of flour, add them to the hot milk, stir until you have a
smooth thick paste; take from the fire; mix with it the meat, and turn out
to cool. When cold, form into croquettes. Beat one egg, add to it a
tablespoonful of warm water, and beat again. Dip the croquettes first into
this, then roll them in bread crumbs, and fry them in smoking hot fat.
They may be served plain or with tomato sauce.
Beef Steak Pudding
Cut cold cooked steak into cubes of a half inch. To each pint of these
allow a half pint of milk, six tablespoonfuls of flour, two eggs, and two
tablespoonfuls of chopped suet. Put the flour into a bowl; beat the eggs,
add to them the milk, then add gradually to the flour; make perfectly
smooth. Cover the bottom of a baking dish with a layer of the batter, put
in the bits of steak, sprinkle over the chopped suet, then a dusting of
salt and pepper, and, if you like, a few drops of onion juice; now put
over the remaining quantity of the batter, and bake in a moderately quick
oven an hour and a half.
Potato Dumplings
Take any pieces of cold cooked meat, chop them fine, season carefully with
salt, pepper, chopped parsley or celery. To each pint allow two
tablespoonfuls of melted butter. For the crust you may use left-over cold
mashed potatoes; if so, add a little milk and stir them over the fire
until smooth and hot. If potatoes are boiled for the purpose, add salt,
butter and milk, and beat them until light. Line to the depth of one inch,
a baking dish, put the meat in the center, cover the top with mashed
potatoes, smooth, brush with milk and bake in a moderate oven a half hour.
Gobbits
Scrape and cut into fancy pieces one good-sized carrot and one turnip. Put
these into a saucepan, cover with a pint of stock, and cook slowly until
the vegetables are tender. Have ready, cut into cubes of one inch,
sufficient cold cooked beef to make a quart; add it to the vegetables,
simmer a few minutes until the meat is hot; have ready also one cup of
rice that has been boiled thirty minutes in clear water, drained and
dried. Arrange this in a border around the meat dish. Put two
tablespoonfuls of butter and flour into a saucepan; mix. Drain the liquor
from the meat and vegetables, which should now measure one pint; if not,
add sufficient stock to make a pint; add this to the butter and flour, and
stir until boiling. Dish the meat and vegetables in the centre of the rice
border. Take the sauce from the fire, add a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of
pepper and the yolks of two eggs. Reheat for just an instant, strain over
the meat mixture, dust with chopped parsley, and serve at once.
Beef Fritters
Chop sufficient cold cooked beef to make one pint; add to it a teaspoonful
of salt, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper. Beat two eggs until
light, add to them a half pint of water or stock; stir into this one and a
half cups of flour, beat until smooth, add a teaspoonful of baking powder
and the meat. Drop this by spoonfuls into smoking hot fat; cook about
three minutes, drain on brown paper, and serve either on a folded napkin,
or in a dish with tomato sauce.
Minced Beef on Toast
Take the meat from between the bones of a rib roast, or any little bits
that would not be serviceable in other dishes, chop them fine, and to each
pint, allow one tablespoonful of butter, one of flour and a half pint of
tomatoes or stock. Mix the butter and flour together, then add the
tomatoes strained or stock; when boiling add the meat, and a palatable
seasoning of salt and pepper. Stand the mixture over hot water until
smoking hot, and serve on squares of toasted bread.
Barbecue of Cold Beef
Cut cold-roasted or boiled beef into thin slices. Put into your saucepan
two tablespoonfuls of butter, two tablespoonfuls of catsup and two
tablespoonfuls of sherry; stir until hot; drop the slices of beef into
this, cover the saucepan, shake occasionally for a minute, until the beef
is smoking hot, and send at once to the table. This is exceedingly nice
made and served from a chafing dish. This dish may be made by omitting the
sherry and using a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, a teaspoonful of
mushroom catsup and two tablespoonfuls of stock.
Salt Beef Hash No. 1
Cold cooked corned beef is best made into hash. Chop sufficient to make
one pint. Chop the same quantity of cold boiled potatoes; mix the two
together, put them into a saucepan, add a half pint of stock, a
tablespoonful of butter, teaspoonful of onion juice and a quarter of a
teaspoonful of black or white pepper. Stir carefully and constantly until
the mixture reaches the boiling point. Serve at once on buttered toast.
Salt Beef Hash No. 2
Chop enough cold cooked corned beef to make a pint; chop the same quantity
of cold boiled potatoes; mix the two together. Put them into a stewing
pan, add one pint of stock; simmer for just a moment; take from the fire,
add two eggs well beaten, a dash of pepper; turn the mixture into a baking
dish and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes.
Rechauffee of Beef
Cut any left-over cold beef into thin slices. Cut into slices three cold
boiled potatoes. Peel two tomatoes, cut them into halves, squeeze out the
seeds, and then cut the tomatoes into small bits. Chop one good sized
onion. Put a layer of tomato in the bottom of a baking dish, then beef,
then a seasoning of onion, salt and pepper, and if you have it, a little
chopped celery, then potatoes, then again tomatoes, beef, and so continue
until you have used the materials, having the last layer tomatoes. Dust
the top with bread crumbs, put over a few bits of butter and bake a half
hour in a moderately quick oven.
Steak Pudding
Cut any cold left-over steak into thin slices, and cut these slices into
bits one inch long. Put one quart of flour in a bowl, and add to it one
cupful of chopped uncooked suet. Chop the suet and flour together for a
minute, add a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of black pepper,
and sufficient cold water to just moisten. Take the dough on the board and
roll it out into a sheet; make it a little larger than an ordinary pie
dish. Season the bits of meat, put them on one-half the sheet, lay over
the top twelve good fat oysters, brush the under half of the dough with
the white of egg or water; fold over the other half and make two or three
holes in the top. Put it in a cheese cloth and steam for two hours. Remove
the cloth, brush the pudding with the yolk of the egg and bake in a quick
oven a half hour.
Panada of Beef
Chop sufficient cold cooked beef to make one pint; season it with a
teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and a dash of
pepper. Put this in the bottom of a baking dish. Crush six Uneeda
biscuits, pour over them a half pint of milk, let them stand a minute or
two, add one egg, well beaten, a half teaspoonful of salt and a
saltspoonful of pepper. Pour this over the beef and bake in a moderate
oven twenty minutes to a half hour.
Other meats may be substituted for beef.
MUTTON--UNCOOKED
Tough pieces of uncooked mutton may be put twice through the meat chopper
and used for curry balls or for stuffing for tomatoes or egg plant; in
fact, in almost any way that one would serve uncooked beef. Having fewer
pieces of uncooked scrap mutton than of beef, we are less accustomed to
seeing them used.
Curry Balls
Put any pieces of tough uncooked mutton twice through the meat chopper;
season the meat with salt, pepper and onion juice. Form into little balls
the size of an English walnut. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a
saucepan; when hot, throw the balls into the butter, and shake until
carefully browned. Lift them from the saucepan, and to the butter in the
pan add a teaspoonful of curry, a tablespoonful of flour, mix and add a
half pint of stock; stir carefully until boiling; pour this over the
balls, cook, slowly for twenty minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of lemon
juice and serve in a border of rice. Cocoanut milk may be used instead of
stock.
MUTTON--COOKED
While mutton belongs to the red meats, when carefully cooked it may be
used in many ways in which you would use chicken or veal. Capers and
tomato, with a slight flavoring of mint, are more agreeable with mutton
than with almost any other meats.
Bobotee
Chop sufficient cold boiled mutton to make a pint. Put two tablespoonfuls
of butter and one onion sliced into a saucepan; stir until the onion is
slightly brown; then add a half pint of stock or milk and four
tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs. Stand this on the back of the stove for
about five minutes while you blanch and chop fine a dozen almonds. Add
these to the meat, then add a teaspoonful of curry powder, and a
teaspoonful of salt. Beat three eggs until light, stir them into the meat,
then turn the whole into the saucepan. Rub the bottom of the baking dish
first with a clove of garlic, then sprinkle over a tablespoonful of lemon
juice and put here and there a few bits of butter; put on this the
mixture, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Serve in the dish in
which it is baked, and pass with it plain boiled rice.
Boudins
Chop sufficient cold cooked mutton to make a pint. Put a half cup of
stock, two tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs and a tablespoonful of butter
over the fire. When hot, take from the fire, add the meat and three eggs
well beaten; add a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper. Put the
mixture into greased custard cups, stand in a baking pan half filled with
boiling water, and cook in a moderate oven fifteen to twenty minutes.
Serve with sauce Béchamel. The bottom of the cups may be garnished with
chopped mushrooms, capers, or chopped truffles, or dusted thickly with
chopped parsley.
Klopps
Chop sufficient cold boiled mutton to make a pint; add to it a half pint
of bread crumbs and sufficient white of egg to bind the whole together;
add a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of white pepper. Form into balls the
size of English walnuts; drop into a kettle of boiling water; pull the
kettle to one side of the fire where it cannot possibly boil, and cook the
klopps slowly for five or six minutes. When done they will float on the
surface. Lift, drain carefully, put on to a heated dish, pour over cream
celery or cream oyster sauce, and serve with them peas and boiled rice.
Curry of Mutton
Put two tablespoonfuls of butter and one sliced onion into a pan; cook
slowly until the onion is perfectly tender; add one clove of garlic
mashed, a teaspoonful of curry powder and a teaspoonful of turmeric; mix
thoroughly, add a half pint of stock, or, better, cocoanut milk; stir
until boiling, add one quart of cold cooked mutton chopped fine; heat
thoroughly, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice, and pour at once into a
platter that has been garnished with boiled rice.
Mutton with Anchovy
Chop sufficient cold boiled mutton to make one pint; mash fine three
anchovies. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan, add one
sliced onion, cook until the onion is soft and yellow, add a clove of
garlic mashed, add to this the anchovies and a half pint of stock; simmer
gently for fifteen minutes, and press through a sieve. Add a tablespoonful
of capers, two or three leaves of mint that have been bruised, and the
mutton chopped fine. Heat over boiling water for fifteen minutes, and
serve on squares of toasted bread. This may be served plain or the top of
each piece may be capped with a carefully poached egg.
Pilau
Cut into bits any pieces of cold cooked mutton; put them into a saucepan,
cover with water, add a grated onion, a bay leaf and two or three cardamom
seeds. Sprinkle over a half cup of rice that has been carefully washed;
cover the kettle and simmer slowly until the rice is tender. Dish the
mutton, putting the rice over the top, cover the whole with a nicely made
tomato sauce, and send at once to the table.
Mutton Salad
Any pieces of cold-roasted or boiled mutton may be cut into dice and used
for an ordinary mutton salad. At serving time arrange this neatly on
lettuce leaves, or any accessible green; season with salt and pepper, and
cover with mayonnaise dressing to which has been added a tablespoonful of
capers.
Where celery, lettuce or other fresh greens cannot be procured, canned
asparagus may be mixed with the mutton or may be served with it as a
garnish; giving an exceedingly agreeable accompaniment. Where asparagus
cannot be obtained, a can of peas may be drained, washed, drained again,
and added to the mutton before it is mixed with the mayonnaise dressing,
or the mutton may be mixed with mayonnaise and filled into tomatoes that
have been peeled and the centers scooped out. Stand each on a little nest
of lettuce leaves or on a bunch of cress, and garnish the top with capers.
French Lamb Stew
1 quart of bits of cold left-over lamb or mutton
1 pint of green peas
1 quart of water
3 stalks of mint
1 teaspoonful of onion juice
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 saltspoonful of pepper
Put the lamb, water and all the seasoning into a saucepan. Shell and wash
the peas, put them over the top, cover the pan and bring quickly to a
boil, lift the lid, and boil rapidly twenty minutes until the peas are
tender. Rub together the butter and flour, stir them carefully into the
stew, bring again to boiling point and serve.
Lamb Stew with Tomatoes
Follow the preceding recipe, using a quart of strained tomatoes in place
of a quart of water.
CHICKEN--UNCOOKED
In purchasing a chicken for timbale, select a large one, but not an old
fowl. After the chicken has been drawn, remove the white meat, which is
used uncooked for timbales. The dark meat may be cooked at once and
utilized for boudins, croquettes, salad, cecils, creamed hash, or served
on toast with sauce Bordelaise, or used in chafing dish next day. Or if
you prefer to use it raw, devil the legs and use the bones for soup.
Timbale
Chop fine the uncooked white meat of a chicken; this should weigh a half
pound. Then rub it with the back of a wooden spoon against the side of a
bowl until perfectly smooth. Put one cup of white bread crumbs and a half
cup of milk over the fire; stir until boiling; when cold, rub this
thoroughly with the meat, and press it through an ordinary flour sieve.
Stir into it carefully the well-beaten whites of five eggs, add a
teaspoonful of salt, a dash of white pepper; fill into greased timbale
cups, stand in a baking pan of boiling water, cover with oiled paper, and
bake in a moderate oven fifteen to twenty minutes. The bottoms of the cups
may be garnished with chopped truffle, chopped mushrooms, chopped parsley,
or nicely cooked green peas. Serve with the timbales either a plain cream
sauce or a cream mushroom sauce. Peas are the usual accompaniment.
Or the timbale molds may be lined with this mixture, and the centers
filled with creamed mushrooms; put enough of the timbale mixture over the
top to hold in the stuffing; they will then be cooked and served in the
usual manner.
Deviled Chicken Legs
Carefully remove the bones from the legs of an uncooked chicken. To a half
cup of bread crumbs add twelve chopped almonds, two tablespoonfuls of
toasted piñon nuts, a tablespoonful of parsley, a half teaspoonful of salt
and a dash of cayenne; moisten with two tablespoonfuls of butter. Stuff
this into the spaces from which you have taken the bones, tie the legs top
and bottom to keep in the stuffing. Place the bones from the carcass of
the chicken in the soup kettle, cover with cold water, and when the water
reaches boiling point place the legs on top of the bones and cook
continuously for two hours. They may be served hot with sauce, or cold,
cut into thin slices garnished with aspic.
English Chicken Balls
Chop fine the dark meat left over from timbales, add a half can of finely
chopped mushrooms, a teaspoonful of salt, a half teaspoonful of pepper, a
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a dozen blanched and finely chopped
almonds and one raw egg; mix thoroughly and form into balls the size of an
English walnut. Arrange these over the bottom of a saucepan, cover with
stock, add a bay leaf, a slice of onion and of carrot; cook slowly a half
to three-quarters of an hour; drain, saving the stock. Dish the balls in
the center of a platter, put around the edge a row of potato bullets,
outside of that small triangles of toast. Put a tablespoonful of butter
and one of flour into a saucepan; mix, add a half pint of stock in which
the balls were cooked, stir until boiling, take from the fire, add the
yolk of one egg beaten with two tablespoonfuls of cream; add a half
teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper; strain this over the balls and
serve.
CHICKEN--COOKED
The remains of cold chicken or turkey may be used in precisely the same
manner, or made into croquettes, using the same rule as for beef
croquettes. With an accompaniment of mayonnaise of celery, or mayonnaise
of tomato, they make an extremely good luncheon dish. For an evening
entertainment they may be simply garnished with cooked peas. Meat
croquettes are usually made into pyramid forms; they may, however, be made
into cylinders. Boudins of chicken or turkey are also exceedingly nice.
Creamed Hash on Toast
This is one of the tastiest of all the warmed-over chicken dishes. Chop
the chicken fine, and to each pint allow one tablespoonful of butter, one
of flour and a half pint of milk. Rub the butter and flour together, add
the milk, stir over the fire until boiling, season the meat with a
teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper, add to the milk sauce, and stir
over hot water for fifteen minutes. The flavoring may be changed by adding
three or four chopped mushrooms, or, if you have it, a chopped truffle;
but it is exceedingly good plain. Heap this on squares of nicely toasted
bread, serve at once, or you may garnish the tops with carefully poached
eggs.
Casserole
Wash a half cup of rice; throw it into boiling water, boil for twenty
minutes, drain, add a half cup of milk, a tablespoonful of butter, a level
teaspoonful of salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper; stir until
you have a rather smooth thick paste. Brush custard cups, line them to the
depth of a half inch with this rice mixture; make a plain milk sauce, as
in preceding recipe, and add a pint of seasoned chicken. Fill the space in
the rice cups with this cream mixture, put over a covering of rice, stand
the cups in a pan of boiling water, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty
to twenty-five minutes. Turn these carefully on a heated dish, pour
around cream sauce and serve. They may be garnished with green peas,
mushrooms or truffles. While this is an exceedingly economical dish it is
at the same time an elegant one.
Indian Hash
Chop fine sufficient cold-roasted duck, chicken, or turkey to make one
pint. Cut a good-sized onion into very thin slices. Pare, core, and chop
fine one apple. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, add the
apple and the onion; toss until brown, then add not more than an eighth of
a teaspoonful of powdered mace, a half teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful
of curry powder, a tablespoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of sugar; mix and
add a half pint of stock or water; now add the meat, stir constantly until
smoking hot, then stand over hot water, covering closely for twenty
minutes. Add two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and serve in a border of
rice.
Mock Terrapin or à la Newburg
Pieces of cold-roasted chicken, turkey or duck may be used for making
terrapin or à la Newburg. Cut the meat into pieces of fairly good size;
measure, and to each pint of this allow a half pint of sauce; rub together
two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of flour. Rub to a smooth paste the
hard boiled yolks of three eggs; add to the butter and flour a gill and a
half (three-quarters of a cup) of milk; stir until smoking hot. Do not
let the mixture boil; then add this a little at a time to the yolks of the
eggs, rubbing until you have a perfectly smooth golden sauce; press this
through a sieve. Before beginning the sauce, sprinkle the chicken with
four tablespoonfuls of sherry or Madeira, the latter preferable. Add the
chicken to the sauce, stir until each piece is thoroughly covered; add a
half teaspoonful of salt, just a drop of extract of nutmeg or a grating of
nutmeg, an eighth of a spoon of white pepper (black pepper, of course, may
be used); cover and stand over hot water, stirring occasionally until the
mixture is smoking hot.
Chicken Supréme
This may be made from either chicken or turkey cut into dice; add an equal
quantity of canned mushrooms; for instance, to one pint of cold chicken,
add one can of mushrooms. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of
flour in a saucepan; mix without browning, then add two cups (one pint) of
chicken stock; stir constantly until boiling, add two tablespoonfuls of
thick cream, and the yolks of four eggs; strain, add the chicken and
mushrooms, a level teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a teaspoonful of
white pepper, ten drops of celery extract or just a little celery seed.
Stand this mixture over hot water, watching carefully until it is
thoroughly heated; remember that any boiling will curdle the egg. Serve
this on a heated dish either in a border of rice or garnished with squares
of toasted bread. This mixture is also served in bread patês, or it may be
served in chicken muffin cases.
Chicken Cutlets
Chop cold cooked chicken or turkey very fine; to each pint allow a half
can of mushrooms chopped fine. Put one tablespoonful of butter and two of
flour into a saucepan, mix, and add a half pint of chicken stock. When
smooth and thick take from the fire, add the yolks of two eggs, the
chicken and mushrooms, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a teaspoonful of
pepper, a teaspoonful of onion juice, a grating of nutmeg and a
tablespoonful of chopped parsley; stir over the fire for a moment; turn
out to cool; when cold form into cutlet-shaped croquettes, dip in egg and
bread crumbs, and fry in smoking hot fat. These may be served plain, with
a garnish of peas, or they may be served with sauce Béchamel.
Duck Bordelaise
Portions of cold duck may be cut into convenient pieces, sprinkled with
wine, about four tablespoonfuls to the pint, and allowed to stand while
you make sauce Bordelaise. Put one tablespoonful of butter and one of
flour into a saucepan; mix, add a teaspoonful of browning or kitchen
bouquet and a half pint of stock; stir until boiling, add a tablespoonful
of grated onion, a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and, if you
have it, a tablespoonful of finely-chopped ham; cook for five minutes and
strain; add three or four fresh mushrooms or a half dozen canned mushrooms
and the duck. Stand over boiling water until the mixture is thoroughly
heated. Send to the table garnished with triangles of toasted bread. A few
stoned olives or sliced olives may be added in the place of the mushrooms,
and you would then have salmi of duck.
GAME
Bits of cold broiled or roasted game may be chopped very fine, rubbed to a
smooth paste either in a bowl or mortar. To each half pint of this mixture
allow two tablespoonfuls of brown sauce thoroughly rubbed with the game,
and the unbeaten white of one egg; press the whole mixture through an
ordinary flour sieve; then stir in the well-beaten whites of two eggs,
four mushrooms chopped almost to a powder, and a seasoning of salt and
pepper. Fill this into little greased molds or cups; the cups may be
garnished with chopped truffle or mushrooms, or served plain. Fill in the
mixture, stand the cups in a baking pan half filled with boiling water;
cook in a moderate oven twenty minutes. The little bomb-shaped molds are
the better sort to use for these. Serve with brown sauce either plain or
flavored with mushrooms.
BREAD
The better way is to cut just sufficient bread for each meal so that there
will be really no left-overs. If, however, a few slices are accidentally
left, put them aside in a can or jar, never in the regular bread box with
the bread; one or two slices will invariably be missed until sufficiently
old to mold and contaminate the remaining quantity of bread in the box,
and then, too, they are more apt to accumulate in this way than in a
separate box. The neater pieces may be used for toast for breakfast or
lunch or supper. The next best pieces use for bread and butter custard;
the crusts dry, roll and put aside to be ready for breading articles to be
fried, or for escalloped dishes. In this way every piece, no matter what
its condition, will be utilized.
Bread and Butter Custard
Beat two eggs, without separating, until light, add four tablespoonfuls of
sugar and a pint of milk, mix and add a grating of nutmeg; turn into an
ordinary baking dish, cover the top with buttered bread, butter side up;
bake in a moderate oven just as you would a cup custard, until you can put
a spoon handle down in the center of the custard and it will come out free
from milk.
Little Puddings à la Grand Belle
Roll slices of stale bread into fine crumbs. Brush small custard cups, or
a border mold with melted butter, sprinkle over a few currants or raisins,
or any fruit that you may have left over. Fill the cups with crumbs. Beat
three eggs, without separating, until light; add three tablespoonfuls of
sugar, a teaspoonful of vanilla and a pint of milk. Pour this carefully
over the bread crumbs, let them stand for about five minutes until the
mixture has been soaked up and the bread crumbs soft; then stand in a pan
of boiling water, cover with oiled paper and cook in the oven a half hour.
Turn out and serve hot with egg sauce.
Bread Croquettes
Rub sufficient stale bread to make one quart of crumbs; add four
tablespoonfuls of sugar, a half cup of cleaned currants, or any fruit that
you have left over, and a grating of nutmeg; sprinkle over a teaspoonful
of vanilla, and add sufficient beaten eggs (about three) to moisten the
crumbs. Form into small cylinder-shaped croquettes, dip in egg and roll in
bread crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. Serve hot with sugar sauce.
Bread Muffins
Cover a quart of bits of bread that have been broken apart, with one pint
of milk; soak for fifteen minutes, then with a spoon beat until you have a
smooth paste; add the yolks of three eggs, a tablespoonful of melted
butter and one cup of flour that has been sifted with a heaping
teaspoonful of baking powder. Fold in carefully the well-beaten whites of
the eggs, and bake in muffin pans in a quick oven about twenty minutes.
Muffins left from breakfast may be pulled apart and toasted for lunch or
supper. Pieces of stale sponge cake, in fact, any stale cake may be used
for cabinet puddings, for cream puddings, or for croquettes.
EGGS
The soft boiled eggs that are left from breakfast will be at once hard
boiled, put into the refrigerator, and when four have accumulated, use
them for Beauregard eggs, à la Newburg dishes or garnishes. Poached eggs
that are left over may be dropped at once into boiling water, cooked
slowly until perfectly hard, and put aside for chopping, to use as a
garnish for a curry or some vegetable dish with which they will nicely
blend.
The tablespoonful or two of stewed tomatoes left in the dish from dinner
will be put aside to use for tomato omelet, or they may be added to the
roasted beef gravy for dinner, converting a plain homely gravy into one of
better flavor. The half cup of peas may be added to to-morrow's consommé,
or used as a garnish for the breakfast omelet. The green portions of
celery will be put aside for stewing; the tender white part for serving
raw; while the leaves and roots will be used for flavoring soups and
sauces.
The yolk of egg left over, if put into a cup or saucer will, in less than
two hours, become hard, dry and useless. This same yolk dropped into a cup
half filled with cold water will keep for several days, and may be used
for mayonnaise or added to a sauce. When needed, it may be carefully
lifted with a spoon and used the same as a fresh yolk.
Whites of Eggs
The yolks of eggs are quite easily disposed of, as sauces frequently call
for the yolk of one or two eggs; then they may be used for mayonnaise
dressing, or added to various dishes. The whites of eggs, however,
accumulate. One of the ways of getting hard-boiled yolks, without wasting
the whites, is to separate the white and the yolk before the egg is
cooked; drop the yolk down into a kettle of boiling water; then stand on
the back part of the stove for fifteen or twenty minutes until it is hard.
The yolk will cook in this way just as well as with the white in the
shell. Now, you have the uncooked whites, which may be used for a simple
white cake, apple float, soufflés, plain or with fruit.
Beauregard Eggs
Separate the whites and yolks of five hard-boiled eggs, press through an
ordinary fruit press, or chop very fine. Make a half pint of cream sauce;
when boiling, add the whites of the eggs. Have ready on a heated platter
five squares of toasted bread; heap the white sauce over these squares,
dust the top with the yolks of the eggs, then with a little salt and
pepper, and send at once to the table.
Egg Croquettes
Put five hard-boiled eggs through a vegetable press, or chopper. Put one
tablespoonful of butter and two of flour into a saucepan, add a half pint
of milk, stir until boiling, add a half cup of stale, unbrowned bread
crumbs, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a dash
of pepper and a half teaspoonful of onion juice; add the eggs, mix and
turn out to cool. When cold form into cutlets, dip in egg and then in
bread crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. Serve with plain cream sauce.
These with peas make an exceedingly nice luncheon dish.
Gold Cake
One frequently has four or five yolks left after having used the whites
for some light dish, as mock charlotte. Beat a half cupful of butter to a
cream, add gradually one cupful of sugar. When very, very light, add the
yolks of the eggs and beat for ten or fifteen minutes; then add one cupful
of water, and two and a half cupfuls of flour, sifted with three level
teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Beat thoroughly, and bake in a small round
or square pan.
German Slaw
This will use the yolks of two eggs and any little sour cream that may be
left over. Shred the cabbage and soak it in cold water, changing the
water once or twice. When crisp, wring it perfectly dry in a towel. Beat
the yolks of two eggs, add a half cupful of sour cream, four
tablespoonfuls of vinegar; stir this over the fire until it thickens. Take
from the fire, add a half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper; mix it
with the cabbage and turn it into the serving dish. This quantity of
dressing will be quite sufficient for about one quart of cabbage.
Apple Snow
In making sauce Hollandaise or mayonnaise one always has quite a quantity
of the left-over whites. These may be made into various sponges, or used
for fruit snow. Beat the whites of four or five eggs until light, then
add two level tablespoonfuls of sifted powdered sugar to the white of each
egg and beat until dry and glossy. Grate into this one tart apple, fold it
quickly, float it on a little dish of good milk or cream, and send it at
once to the table. If you have one or two little stale cakes, or a bit of
sponge cake, stale, grate it, dust the top, and if you have just a little
jelly, you may dot it here and there with the jelly. This must be made
just before the dinner hour, or the apple will lose its color. Grated
pear, or two or three peaches pressed through a sieve, or one or two soft
bananas may be beaten and used in the place of the apple.
POTATOES
Cold baked potatoes will be converted at once into stuffed potatoes, and
put aside for rewarming. Two cold boiled potatoes will make a comfortable
dish of hashed browned potatoes, or may be served with cream sauce or au
gratin.
Stuffed Potatoes
Baked potatoes that are left over must be made into stuffed potatoes
before they are heavy and cold. At the close of the meal at which they
were first served, cut the potatoes directly into halves, scoop out the
inside portion, put it through an ordinary vegetable press, or mash it
fine; add a little butter, salt, pepper and sufficient milk to make a
light mixture; stand this over hot water and beat until light and smooth.
Put it back into the shells, and stand them aside in a cold place. When
ready to serve, brush the top with beaten egg, run them into a quick oven
until hot and golden brown.
Potato Croquettes
Cold mashed potatoes may be made into croquettes by adding to each pint
four tablespoonfuls of heated milk, the yolks of two eggs, a tablespoonful
of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of grated onion, a quarter of a
teaspoonful of pepper; stir over the fire until the mixture is thoroughly
heated; form into cylinder-shaped croquettes, dip in egg and rolled bread
crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. Potato croquettes are more difficult to
fry than meat croquettes; the fat must be at least 365 degrees (Fahr.) and
the rolling carefully done.
Potato Puff
The above mixture may have the whites of the eggs beaten and stirred in,
and baked in the oven; serve in the same dish in which it was baked.
Potato Roses for Garnishing
Cold boiled potatoes may have added sufficient milk to make a soft paste;
stir it over the fire until smooth; put it into your pastry bag, using a
star tube; hold the bag firmly, pressing out on greased papers these
little potato roses; brown in the oven and use them for garnishing fish
dishes.
Potato Custards