CHAPTER II

HIDES AND SKINS

The hides and skins of animals form the principal raw material of

the tanner. Technically, the term "hides" is applied to the skins of

the larger animals, while the word "skins" is used in the case of

the smaller animals. Thus, the tanner speaks of ox, cow, bull and

horse _hides_, and of calf, sheep, and goat _skins_. There is an

intermediate size between a full-grown calf skin and a small hide,

and this is known as a "kip," but the line of demarcation is not very

clear.

Buyers often settle the difficulty by examining the growth marks

and the irregular substance of the skin, and, if these are marked

features, it is classified as a kip. The condition of the hides of

cattle is usually inferior during the six months after the animal

has become a yearling. East India tanned hides, which are largely

imported into England, are frequently described as E.I. "kips" in

the trade. This is hardly accurate, but the mistake is probably

due to the small size of full-grown Indian hides, which are very

little larger than the average European kips. It is interesting

to observe that furriers always refer to both their raw material

and the finished product as skins, irrespective of the size of the

fur-bearing animals. Most of the skins of wild animals are dressed

without removing the hair or fur, and this is quite a distinct trade

from leather manufacture, the only exception being the dressing

of closely cut and fine-haired calf skins for slippers and fancy

articles.

Practically every country in the world contributes to the supply of

hides and skins, but there are a few countries which are far in

advance of the others in the industries of cattle and sheep-raising.

The sources of tanners' raw material have undergone great changes

since the establishment of freezing and chilling stores for the

preparation of meat for export, and the market prices of hides are to

a large extent controlled by the supply in North and South America,

South Africa, and Australia. Whether or not the concentration of

these huge meat works into two or three centres is likely to benefit

the leather trade is a debatable point. The flaying, trimming, and

curing of hides in these establishments are certainly superior to

the work done by the average butcher, while, owing to the large

numbers of cattle slaughtered, the hides can be closely selected. On

the other hand, the value of hides and skins has risen enormously

in the last decade, the period coincident with the rapid growth

of the chilled and frozen meat industry, but the increased use

of leather in many directions may be mainly responsible for the

higher cost of the raw material, although it is obvious that the

concentration of the chief supplies of hides in a few lands must

tend to increase the severity of the competition among buyers. Apart

from the high prices of the hides, the concentration of the meat

industry in large chilling and freezing works has had the effect

of increasing the prices of beef and mutton, which are now higher

in price than freshly-killed English meat was a few years ago.

It appears to have been a grave error on the part of the British

Government when they stopped the imports of live cattle owing to the

fear of foot-and-mouth disease being communicated to domestic herds.

The disease has broken out in several places since the embargo was

imposed, so that the theory that the infection was only carried by

imported live cattle has been clearly disproved. The butchering of

cattle provides a large amount of work in subsidiary industries,

and the Government embargo on the importation of live cattle has

caused a great deal of distress in Deptford and Birkenhead, where

large abattoirs were erected for the reception of live cattle, which

used to be imported in fairly large numbers. There is no danger

of foot-and-mouth disease getting beyond the abattoirs or of the

slaughter of diseased cattle for food, and both tanners and butchers

hope to see the removal of the embargo. So far as possible, each

country should raise its own cattle to provide its own meat supply,

and this principle is recognised by many countries which prohibit the

import of foreign meat: but, owing to the rapid growth of populations

in industrial countries, with the consequent increase in the value of

land, it has become impracticable to raise enough cattle to supply

domestic needs. Even the United States of America, which formerly had

a great cattle-raising industry, has lately been obliged to import

live cattle to meet the requirements of its inhabitants. Similar

conditions prevail almost throughout Europe, and tanners have to look

to South America, Australia, and Africa for large supplies of raw

hides, although there are still some tanners in the United Kingdom

who use only the hides produced in this country.

The bulk of the production of hides and skins in the United Kingdom

is disposed of at weekly public auctions in the principal towns:

London, Manchester, Liverpool, Leeds, Birmingham, Newcastle, and

Glasgow being the largest centres of distribution. However, there

is still a large quantity bought by private treaty, and opinions

are divided as to which is the better method of buying. Before the

establishment of public auctions, hides were very cheap, but tanners

were unable to get a good selection, although, for sole leather, that

was not a very important matter. Public auctions have become so

firmly established that it would be impossible for tanners to revert

to the old system even if they desired it. The competition of private

buyers with the auction markets has certainly benefited the butcher

at the expense of the tanner, and the weighing and classification

of hides ultimately became so irregular in many markets that the

Tanners' Federation of the United Kingdom had to take strong

action not long ago to protect their interests. They demanded the

appointment of an independent inspector at each market to check the

weighing and sorting of the hides, but this was successfully resisted

by the market proprietors, who eventually agreed to the tanners

appointing travelling inspectors to visit the markets periodically.

The system is said to have improved matters.

The English markets do not collect enough hides to permit their close

sorting, so that, while the hides are graded according to weight and

quality and the sex of the animal, the question of varying substances

is generally ignored. There is usually a difference of 10 lb. in each

class where the hides are sorted by weight Ox, cow, heifer, and bull

hides are sold separately, as each sort has a different value. Bull

hides are comparatively poor in quality, owing to their irregular

substance and strong growth marks in the neck. Ox hides are the most

suitable for sole leather and belting, while cows' and heifers' are

used mainly for dressing hides, which are finished into bag, case,

strap, and boot leathers. The hides known as Scotch and Hereford

runts are the best of those produced in the United Kingdom, as they

are well-grown, compact, and well-suited to the making of sole

leather and belting. The grading of the weight of these hides at the

auction markets is generally as follows: 100 lb. and above, 90-99

lb., 80-89 lb., 70-79 lb., 60-69 lb., 59 lb. and less. This does not

give an ideal classification, as hides vary so much in texture and

substance, and it is quite possible to find spready hides of poor

substance and quality which would be heavier than a small but compact

and well-grown hide. It would be better from the tanner's point of

view if the hides were selected according to substance and quality.

There are not many bull hides grown in the United Kingdom, and in

many markets they are not classed by weight but simply into best and

secondary qualities. Horse hides are of even less value than those

of bulls, owing to their weaker texture and irregular substance.

That part of the skin under the mane is almost worthless, while the

flanks and sides are only useful for a secondary class of boot upper

leather, although some fairly good patent sides have lately been

produced from horse hide, which is suitable for that purpose owing

to its soft grain and pliable texture when tanned. The most valuable

part of a horse hide is the butt, which consists of the part known

as the "shell." This shell is covered with an extremely fine grain

which is not found in any other part of the hide. The well-known crup

leather is made from the shell of the horse hide.

In addition to hides, there are fairly large quantities of calf

and sheep skins sold at the weekly auctions, but veal is not such

an important article of food in England as it is on the Continent.

Sheep skins are far more numerous, as Great Britain is a big

mutton-consuming country. Home supplies of both hides and skins have

been greatly reduced, however, by the immense import of frozen and

chilled meat.

Although the domestic supply of hides and skins is quite inadequate

to meet the needs of British tanners, a large proportion is exported.

American tanners buy large quantities of the best hides and pickled

sheep skins. The latter are dewoolled and preserved by a process of

pickling with formic or sulphuric acid and salt before exportation.

Those preliminary operations are the work of the fellmonger. Nearly

all of the horse hides produced in the United Kingdom are, or were

before the War, sent to Germany, and British leather-dressers appear

to have lost the art of finishing horse hide, or are unable to

convert it into leather profitably.

The interchange of raw hides between various countries, and even

between those where leather manufacture is an important industry, is

somewhat remarkable, and only goes to prove that the concentration

of a particular industry in one or two centres of the world gives

these places a great advantage in regard to labour, organisation,

and technical skill, even over those countries where the raw

material is plentiful. Theoretically and economically it should

be advantageous to establish tanneries close to the supply of raw

hides, since the latter, under present conditions of preservation,

steadily deteriorate from the time they are removed from the carcase

until they reach the tannery. In some countries the methods of

preserving hides are actually so bad that the hides have often lost

half of their value before the tanner gets them. Two or three of the

largest American meat-packing establishments have erected or taken

over tanneries to deal with raw hides, one of their by-products.

Tanneries have also been erected near some of the large meat works in

the Argentine, but the development of the leather trade there is by

no means rapid, and at present the United States of America is the

largest leather-producing country in the world. Germany, France, and

the United Kingdom come next in the order named.

South Africa is an important source of supply of raw material, and

large quantities of Cape hides are sent to England. The production of

raw hides there is likely to be on a very large scale in a few years'

time, as the raising of Afrikander and other breeds of cattle is sure

to become an important industry now that the ravages of the terrible

disease, known as "tick," have been checked. China is another large

hide-exporting country; most of the hides from this source are

dried in the open air and are generally arsenicated to prevent the

ravages of insects. Immense quantities are also provided in all

other populous countries, but the demand for leather is generally

greater than the production of raw material in those countries. India

is a noteworthy exception to this general rule; the production of

Indian hides is enormous, and, although the leather trade is being

developed, there is a large surplus of raw hides and skins for

export. Large quantities are roughly tanned, however, and exported to

England, Germany, France, and other European countries to be dressed

and finished. The greater proportion of these hides and skins is used

for the making of shoe leather, while a good quantity is used for bag

(hide) and imitation morocco (goat) leathers.

Naturally, there is in the aggregate a considerable supply of raw

hides and skins from other parts of the world in addition to that

from the countries specially named, and new sources are being

frequently found.

It would be impossible to describe the characteristics of the

numerous varieties of hides and skins except in a full-sized

text-book, but a brief description of the principal sorts may be

given.

Some of the varieties produced in the United Kingdom have already

been described. In the main, there is not a great deal of difference

in the hides of various breeds, but there is a type of well-grown and

stout hides specially suitable for sole and belting leather; this

class is known as runts, and these hides are obtained from the Scotch

and Hereford breeds of cattle. The Scotch runts from the Highland

cattle are more valuable than any other class of hide found in the

United Kingdom; unfortunately, the production is small. Irish cattle

also yield good hides, but in England the interests of the cattle

owner, or feeder, are in conflict with those of the tanner, for the

system of artificially fattening cattle with oil cakes tends to make

the hides very greasy and weaker in the fibres than those hides from

animals which are reared on natural food-stuffs.

This grease is very difficult to remove and reduces the selling value

of sole leather by about 2d. per lb. The use of a borax solution for

soaking partially removes the grease, while it has been proposed that

the pelts should be treated with a solution of hyposulphite of soda

just before placing them in the tan liquors. A drawback of the latter

process is that a little weight is lost in the finished leather.

The trouble caused by the presence of a large quantity of natural

grease is even more pronounced in sheep skins than in cattle hides.

Naturally, a sheep arrives at maturity in about two years; but by the

modern system of intensive feeding with oily food-stuffs it can be

fattened in about ten months. This is obviously a great advantage to

the sheep-breeder; in other respects it is an unsatisfactory method,

for the mutton is not so well matured, and, therefore, is not so

nourishing; it contains too large a proportion of fat, and the skins

are very greasy and weak in fibre. The excess of grease does not

detract from the value of the wool, and may even be beneficial.

There are several varieties of sheep in the United Kingdom, with

widely different characteristics. A fellmonger should have a

good knowledge of the skins of various breeds in order to buy the

particular sorts that will meet the requirements of his customers,

as his business is to separate the wool from the skins and to

supply the former to the woollen factories and the latter to the

leather-dressers. He has, therefore, to study carefully both the wool

and pelt markets. While some breeds of sheep yield fine long wool of

bright lustre, others have comparatively short-stapled, and "kempy"

wool. Between these two classes, there are numerous grades, and the

task of sorting the various qualities of wool in those fellmongeries

where several classes of skins are worked is by no means easy. It is

a generally accepted axiom that the pelt (_i.e._, the skin denuded

of wool) is weaker in fibre in those skins which yield the finest

and best wool. In support of this, the Welsh mountain sheep may be

cited. This sheep has short, curly wool, but its skin is tough and

strong on the grain. In fact, it is about the only breed suitable for

roller leather, which is used in the cotton industry for covering the

drawing rollers of spinning-machines. Most of this leather is made in

North Wales, whence it is exported to every country where the cotton

industry is carried on.

Notable exceptions of the general rule regarding the relative

qualities of wool and pelts are found in two or three English

varieties, namely: the Lincolns, Leicesters and black-faced Suffolks,

which produce both fine wool and large pelts of good quality.

Other useful British breeds are the Southdowns, Devons, Shropshires,

Wensleydales, Scotch black-faced, Cotswolds, and Kerrys. Of the

imported varieties, the New Zealand and Cape sheep skins are the

best. The former, principally merino stock, not only provide very

fine wool, but also pelts of choice quality and large pattern.

Although the quality of the wool of Australian merino sheep is

little, if any, inferior to that of the New Zealand type, the skins

are not so good in quality, due, no doubt, to the hotter climate,

which is favourable to the breeding of insects and other pests which

damage the skins. The Cape sheep provide a skin which is quite

different in texture from that of any other breed. It has a certain

looseness of texture and softness of grain which make it particularly

suitable for the manufacture of glove leather.

South America is another large sheep-breeding country; but the skins

of this variety are not largely imported into England, most of them

being sent to Mazamet, the great centre of the fellmongering industry

in France. Buenos Aires skins are the most favoured of the South

American skins, owing to their large size and good substance. Monte

Videos are also very fine skins.

Smyrnas and Bagdads are other well-known varieties, but they are

generally imported in a rough-tanned condition, or, as it is known

technically, "in the crust." Leather-dressers finish them for

various purposes, but mainly for boot and shoe lining leather. When

properly tanned by the natives, these skins produce a supple finish,

especially those of the Smyrna variety. Unfortunately, many lots are

merely coloured on the surface with the tan liquor, with the result

that they dry hard and tinny; such partially-tanned leather is very

difficult to finish and is rarely satisfactory. Even when the tannage

is completed elsewhere before finishing them, they never produce such

good leather as skins properly tanned in the first instance.

Russia is another important country for the production of all kinds

of raw hides and skins suitable for leather manufacture. American

tanners buy very largely from this market, and a few enterprising

firms even send their own representatives to the great annual fair

held at Nishni Novgorod, where large quantities of dried hides and

skins, besides many other kinds of produce, are offered for sale.

British tanners take comparatively little interest in this important

supply, but, as a result of the great European War, an increase of

trade between Russia and the United Kingdom is anticipated, although

the Russian leather trade is developing rapidly and will absorb

increasing quantities of native raw material.

Excepting a few in Ireland, raw goat skins are not produced in Great

Britain. The chief drawback to goat breeding there is a somewhat

inexplicable aversion on the part of the public to the flesh of

goats; although another reason may be the destructive nature of the

animals themselves, for they devour and uproot anything edible that

comes in their way. It is, perhaps, unfortunate that some of the

large areas of uncultivated land in Great Britain are not given up

to the breeding of goats on a large scale, since these hardy animals

will thrive on rough, hilly lands. Apart from the value of the meat,

it might be a paying proposition to rear large herds of goats for

the supply of milk (which is more nourishing than cows') and skins.

Leather-dressers are, therefore, dependent on imported supplies,

of which the principal sources are India (North-Western District),

Mexico, Arabia, Africa, South America, and several European countries.

Goat skins from the main sources of supply vary very much in

quality--even those produced in the same country. In India, for

example, skins may be obtained in some districts which can be made

into leather to sell at about 5d. per square foot; from another

district, when finished into the same kind of leather, say glazed

kid, they may be worth 1s. 4d.[1] per foot. Fineness and clearness

of grain and good substance are the main essentials of a first-class

goat-skin leather; unfortunately these qualities are rarely combined

in one class of skin, and there is a decided surplus of light thin

skins which are hardly saleable, even for ladies' shoes. Some

American shoemakers overcome this difficulty by pasting a piece of

cloth on the back of the skin. In fairness to the buyer, the boots

made of such leather should be specially marked, as the wearing

quality of a backed thin leather is not to be compared with one

naturally stout.

[1] It must be understood that, owing to the war, these prices

have been greatly increased.

The skins of goats are used for many purposes besides the

manufacture of the famous glacé kid leather; gloves, moroccos for

bookbinding, upholstery for furniture, fancy articles such as purses,

pocket-books, bags, and ladies' belts all require large quantities of

goat and kid skins. It may be pointed out here, however, that quite

nine-tenths of the so-called kid gloves are made of lamb and sheep

skins. In appearance, there is very little difference between the

real kid and the lamb skin gloves, but the former are more durable

and warmer in wear than the latter.

With an enormous range of qualities, it is a difficult task for the

goat-skin dresser to find the most suitable sorts for his trade.

The skins used in the glove industry are largely obtained from

the Near Eastern countries, Arabia, Austria, Spain, and the Cape.

The selections best suited to the making of glazed and "patent"

(japanned) kid are found in the North-Western provinces of India,

Brazil, China, Russia (especially the Asiatic provinces), Mexico,

the Cape, and Arabia. The Indian goats known as the Patnas, which

are collected in the district of Behar, are commonly supposed to

be the best in the world, chiefly because of their fine grain and

stout substance; but the best Brazilian and Mexican skins are

equally good in quality. The best moroccos for fancy articles are

made from Continental skins, and in this respect Germany has the

great advantage of a good supply of native skins. Norway and Spain

also provide skins suitable for real morocco leather. A very large

quantity of Indian-tanned goat skins are imported into European

countries and dressed for "morocco" leather. There should be a

distinctive name for this class of leather, as, although it is

similar in appearance, it is not nearly so good in quality as the

real morocco.

In addition to cattle hides, sheep, and goat skins, which are the

main supply of raw material for leather, other kinds of hides and

skins are utilised. Horse hides, which, in the United Kingdom, are

graded according to size and quality in four or five selections and

sold by the piece, are largely used on the Continent, and especially

in Germany; nearly all of the British production being sold to that

country. When chrome tanned, these hides produce quite a serviceable

upper leather of good wearing quality, but, owing to their somewhat

loose texture, the characteristic grain of box calf cannot be

reproduced naturally, and the surface of the leather has, therefore,

to be printed. This style of finished leather does not meet with the

favour of British boot manufacturers, and the industry has not been

greatly developed in consequence. In view of the increasing cost of

other kinds of leather, however, more attention may be paid to that

made from horse hide, but the supply of this raw material is very

small compared to the production on the Continent, where horse flesh

is consumed freely. Russia produces large quantities of horse hides

and colt skins, most of which are exported to the United States of

America, where they are made chiefly into japanned, or so-called

"patent," leather, which commands a very high price in relation to

the cost of the raw material.

Next in importance to horse hides is the pig skin, which produces a

wonderfully tough leather. The pig skin leather industry is chiefly

confined to Scotland and Germany, the reason being that the skins are

left on the carcases in the other parts of the world. On the average,

a pig skin is worth about 6s., yet it is seldom removed from the

carcase. One reason is the great difficulty of flaying the animal; it

appears to be almost impossible by present methods to remove the skin

without cutting away a large quantity of fat, and the value of the

skin compared to the loss of weight of the meat offers very little

inducement to remove the skin, in addition to which, the custom of

leaving the rind on bacon and pork effectually prevents any attempt

at present to increase the supply of pig skins. This is a great loss

to the leather trade, for the pig skin is particularly suitable for

saddles and various kinds of strong leather goods. Imitation pig-skin

leather is made from hides, shoulders, bellies, or persians, but real

pig skin is distinguished from the imitation by its peculiarly marked

grain, formed of groups of three small holes which penetrate well

into the skin and form part of the sheaths of the pig's bristles.

Among other skins useful for leather are those of the wallaby,

kangaroo, dog, lizard, crocodile, alligator, ichneumon, frog

(Japanese), deer, antelope, and chamois, while it is said that even

rabbit skins have been pressed into service in Germany, though they

cannot have much value owing to their small size and thin substance.

Dog-skin leather wears well, mainly on account of the large amount of

natural grease present in the skin, but the supplies are naturally

small. The hides of the walrus, elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus,

and other wild animals are also tanned in small quantities, walrus

leather being well adapted for knife and sword polishing.

The mammals also contribute their quota to the supply of raw material

of the leather trade, the seal perhaps, being the most important.

This refers to the hairy seal hunted off the North American coast.

The raw skins are shipped chiefly from Newfoundland, where the

industry of seal fishing is well organised and provides employment

for about 6,000 men. The seal caught in the North Atlantic Ocean is

hairy and quite distinct from the fur seal captured in the Arctic

Ocean off Alaska. The skin of the hair seal is only suitable for

making into leather, but there is a layer of fat underneath it which

furnishes a valuable raw material for the manufacture of oils and

soap. The skins are salted and shipped to America and England. They

are easily distinguished from other kinds of commercial hides and

skins by the oily appearance of the flesh side.

According to an American Consular Report, the results of the fishing

during the season 1913 were satisfactory. The total number of seals

captured was 272,965, which were valued at £98,800. The number of

skins exported was 212,285, valued at £64,300, of which the United

States of America bought 151,355, the United Kingdom 60,754, and

Canada 176.

The porpoise, or sea hog, has a very useful hide which, when dressed,

makes a tough leather suitable for laces. The hides of other

cetaceous mammals, such as the whale and narwhal, are convertible

into useful leather. The British "porpoise" laces are generally made

from the skin of the white whale (_beluga_).

DEFECTS OF RAW HIDES AND SKINS

A remarkable feature of the leather trade is the great waste due

to the careless preparation of a large number of hides and skins.

Naturally, owing to their greatly increased value in recent years,

there has been a decided improvement, but much loss occurs every day

from damage to hides which ought to be avoided. The chief faults are

in flaying and curing, but there are other important defects due to

natural causes.

Bad flaying may be due (1) to cutting holes in the hides or skins;

(2) to "scoring" or "siding" (_i.e._, cutting into the hide without

going completely through), this generally occurring in the flanks or

sides which are the most difficult parts of the hide to remove from

the carcase; and (3) to mis-shaping the hide, which ought to be left

square.

Any or all of these defects may be found in a single hide. Despite

the active work of several proprietors of hide markets and the

tanners' federations the proportion of badly-flayed hides in England

constitutes a serious loss, which, however, may not fall directly on

either the butcher or the tanner, for the former may save in wages

by employing an inexperienced slaughterman, while the tanner pays a

reduced price for the hide.

The losses due to bad flaying and curing in the United Kingdom

are mainly attributable to the butchers' preference to kill these

beasts in their own back-yard rather than in a public abattoir.

Many of these small private slaughterhouses ought to be condemned

by the authorities; but very few people outside those immediately

interested have taken the trouble to inspect a modern public abattoir

where everything is provided to carry on the work expeditiously and

hygienically. On the Continent, where the conservatism of traders is

not permitted to interfere with the public welfare to such an extent

as it is in England, public abattoirs have become quite a feature in

many cities, and one of the principal results of the system has been

a remarkable improvement in the preparation of raw hides and skins

for the tanner. In fact, a mechanical method of flaying has been

invented in Paris, and is used extensively at the public abattoirs,

by which hides are removed from cattle without a single mark or

scratch. The method is known as _dépouille mécanique_ (mechanical

flaying) and consists in forcibly removing, by means of a windlass

worked by electric power, the portions of hide which adhere firmly to

the carcase and which are found over the ribs, the buttocks, and the

tail. The remaining part of the hide can be easily removed with the

ordinary butchers' flaying knife or with a heavy hammer of special

design. The apparatus required to carry out the mechanical method of

flaying, beyond the fixtures in the abattoirs where the process is

adopted, consist of two lengths of chain to hold the carcase firmly,

two special hammers, and one pair of strong pincers; the cost of one

set is about £4. Mr. Gaston Tainturier, of Paris, is the inventor of

this system, which has added thousands of pounds to the incomes of

Parisian butchers.

Figure 1 is from a photograph taken at the Islington (London)

Abattoir, where a demonstration of the process was given by Mr.

Tainturier in February, 1913.

Naturally, this method cannot be adopted in small slaughterhouses

in back-yards, but is readily adaptable to public abattoirs, where

practically all of the heavy work is done by electrical power. This

exemplifies only one of several advantages of modern abattoirs over

private slaughterhouses.

Although it cannot be expected that the English butchers will readily

change their prejudice against modern abattoirs, they are slowly but

gradually improving the flaying process in view of the high prices

paid for perfect hides. The most progressive of the proprietors of

the English hide markets are offering money prizes to slaughtermen

for the best flayed hides. Strictly speaking, this encouragement

should come from the butcher, who receives the benefit of increased

prices for hides removed without a scratch. The Tainturier system,

however, gives better results, no matter how well the hides are

removed with the knife. The method is not patented, and it is open to

anyone to adopt it merely for the cost of the apparatus, yet, despite

this gain, no butcher outside France and Belgium has yet adopted the

method, although the trade is losing hundreds of pounds every week

through bad flaying.

Several other systems of improved flaying have been devised, and

some of them patented, but very few have been adopted on a practical

scale. One of the most useful consists of fixing a safeguard about

a quarter of an inch from the edge of the knife; this prevents the

possibility of cutting holes into the hide, although it does not,

of course, prevent scoring, which is a serious defect in hides made

into sole leather. A safe method is to use a sharp knife of hard

wood, such as hickory, which has been successfully tried in one of

the large American meat-packing establishments. The hides from these

abattoirs are generally well-flayed, properly cured, and closely

trimmed, with the result that they command higher prices than any

other class of salted hides. The quotations for "packer" hides are

followed with keen interest by tanners in all parts of the world.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

MECHANICAL FLAYING

(_dépouille mécanique_)]

Another useful method of preventing damage to the hides by cuts with

a knife is that invented by Mr. E. Pim, a Liverpool hide factor.

The apparatus used is known as the tail extractor. It is of simple

construction, consisting of four pieces of iron riveted together

loosely in the shape of a diamond with a clamp attached to

secure the tail. The hide is then forcibly removed from the tail

and the buttocks by pulling it downward (Fig. 2). The importance of

this operation can be gauged from the fact that by the use of the

butcher's knife both of these parts of the hide are often cut very

badly.

[Illustration: FIG. 2

PIM'S SYSTEM OF FLAYING]

Even the apparently trivial matter of removing the hide from the

cheeks and face is economically important, for, unless those parts

are removed so as to get the maximum surface, they are only fit to

be cut off and thrown in a pit with other pieces and roundings which

are made into glue.

Imperfect preservation is another serious form of damage to hides and

one that cannot be easily remedied in some of the hot climates. Hides

and skins may be simply dried, salted and dried, wet-salted, treated

with arsenic solution and dried, brined or pickled with acid and

salt; of these methods the last-named is the most effective, but is

not practicable, or, at least, has not yet been applied practically

to the cure of hides and calf skins. Salt is not available, or is too

costly in most tropical countries; hence, Chinese, Indian, Mexican,

Colombian, and Arabian hides and skins are generally exported in

a dry condition. Even when the hides are dried under the best

conditions in a cool and shady place, they are of less value than a

fresh or a wet-salted hide, owing to a certain loss of gelatinous

matter in softening them before they can be placed in the lime

liquors. But it not infrequently happens that hides are dried by

exposure to the hot sun, or perhaps in a strong current of air. In

either case, the hide is much reduced in value and may be irreparably

ruined. The effect of submitting hides to these conditions is that

the exterior surface becomes rapidly dry and, naturally, contracted,

so that the air or heat cannot reach the interior, which retains

moisture. This moist inner layer may be quite thin, but it contains

sufficient nutrient to develop putrefactive organisms, so that when

the hide is soaked in water it practically falls to pieces. The

effect of hot sun or heat of any kind is, of course, disastrous to

raw hides and skins, and there have been not a few claims on shipping

companies as the result of storing hides near the boilers of ships.

Salt is almost invariably used for curing both hides and calf

skins, but though it is a good preservative it has one or two minor

defects. It contains too much water, and is liable to contain traces

of iron which is inimical to both raw hides and leather in process

of manufacture. Common salt is also liable to cause stains which

cannot be removed in later processes, and which are even accentuated

in the tan liquors. One trade chemist attributes these stains to

the presence of calcium sulphate (Ca. SO_{4}) or gypsum in the

salt, which is converted into calcium phosphate by the action of

the phosphoric acid in the nuclei of the hide on the sulphate of

calcium. Another well-known technical chemist is certain that stains

are produced by the growth of bacteria, and to prove his assertion

prepared in gelatine several cultures from salt-stained skins.

Practical men generally attribute the stains to the presence of

blood on the hides or skins at the time of curing, and the majority

of the stains are probably due to this cause, although the presence

of calcium sulphate as an impurity of the salt would undoubtedly

contribute to this defect. Blood contains a percentage of iron, and,

with other extraneous matters, should be washed from the hides before

salting them.

Fortunately, chemists have lately paid attention to the advantages

of the use of pure salt in various industries, with the result that

at least two chemically pure products are now available. The use of

these salts should be general for the cure of hides and skins, as

they are quite dry, and, therefore, easily spread. As a curing agent,

they are much more effective and lasting than common salt.

The use of glauber salts (Na_{2} SO_{4}) is recommended by the

International Commission for the Preservation, Cure, and Disinfection

of Hides and Skins instead of ordinary salt, where the latter is

unobtainable. The preparation of a sterilised salt, however, renders

its export a practical proposition to almost any part of the world.

Although the loss due to bad curing and flaying is very great, it is

quite small compared with the damage caused by natural defects.

The ravages of disease cause a great wastage of hides and skins, as

animals infected with anthrax are immediately destroyed and cremated

in all civilised countries, while, in Great Britain, foot-and-mouth

disease is kept in check by the same drastic method. In many other

countries, the infected cattle are isolated, treated with an

antiseptic hoof-and-mouth wash and generally cured, as it is a mild

fever which soon runs its course, although it is very contagious. The

germ of foot-and-mouth disease has not yet been discovered, for the

most powerful microscope fails to reveal its presence, but cattle

readily show the complaint, as their hoofs and mouths become covered

with swollen lesions.

Another kind of fever, known as "tick," was prevalent in the southern

part of the United States, but this disease was eventually eliminated

by systematically "dipping" the cattle three or four times a year.

The cattle "dip" used effectually prevented the ravages of the fly

which caused the disease. A similar method has of late years been

adopted in South Africa, with the result that cattle-raising in that

country is developing rapidly.

Anthrax is due to the presence of _bacillus anthracis_, a vegetable

organism of Siberian origin. Dry Chinese and Russian hides are

specially liable to contain the spores of anthrax, and, as the

disease proves fatal to workmen infected by it unless treatment with

anti-anthrax serum be given in the early stages, hides and skins

from infected areas should be disinfected before shipment. The method

proposed by Mr. A. Seymour-Jones, which consists in treating hides

with very dilute formic acid and one part of bichloride of mercury

in 1,000 of water, and afterwards with a saturated solution of salt

solution (.02 per cent.) of bichloride of mercury, seems to be the

most effective without damaging the hides.

[Illustration: WARBLE FLY

(1) Egg, (2) Larva, (3 and 4) Chrysalides, (5) Natural form of

fly, (6) Magnified fly.]

A peculiar natural defect is found in many South American goat skins,

especially the Brazilian, which are often badly scratched by the

animals rubbing themselves against cactus plants. Although, perhaps,

more of an artificial than a natural defect, the scratches caused by

cattle rubbing their hides against barbed wire constitute a serious,

but easily avoidable, loss. Such a barbarous system of fencing ought

never to be used.

[Illustration: A KIP CONTAINING 584 HOLES CAUSED BY THE WARBLE FLY

(The skin belongs to W. D. Mark & Sons, Hide Factors,

Newcastle.)]

[Illustration: FIG. 3

HOLE IN COW HIDE, MADE BY THE GRUB OF THE WARBLE FLY

(Magnified fifteen times)]

The most serious loss in connection with hides and skins, however,

is caused by the warble flies, _hypoderma bovis_ and _hypoderma

lineatum_, which lay their eggs on the hides of cattle. It has been a

debatable point for some years as to whether these eggs hatched and

burrowed their way into the hides from the exterior or were licked

and swallowed by the cattle and, after traversing the digestive

tract, pierced the hide from the interior. Professor Carpenter,

who has been experimenting a number of years for the Department

of Agriculture for Ireland, has succeeded in taking a remarkable

photograph (Fig. 3) which proves that the larvae penetrate the hide

from the exterior. These develop within the hide and often penetrate

to the flesh before they fall out to the ground and change into the

fly.

The most effective way of getting rid of the pest is to destroy the

larvae, either by cutting them out and crushing them under foot, or

by piercing them with a hot needle. No satisfactory dressing has

yet been found, but Prof. Carpenter states that sulphur dioxide is

effectual, if a good method of applying it can be devised.

While sheep skins are immune from the attacks of the warble fly, they

are often damaged by the blow-fly, lice, keds, and ticks; by scab

caused by the action of a mite or acarus; and by "cockle," which

causes a wrinkled grain. The origin of cockle is not definitely

known, but it is a seasonal defect which begins to show on a large

number of skins in December and does not disappear until the sheep

are shorn in the following spring.

Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product · 第 2 / 7 章