Burgoyne, who was at Fort Ann, instituted an inquiry into the matter. He

summoned the Indians to council, and demanded the surrender of the man

who bore off the scalp, to be punished as a murderer. Lieutenant Jones

denied all knowledge of the matter, and utterly disclaimed any such

participation as the sending of a letter to Jenny, or of an Indian

escort to bring her to camp. He had no motive for so doing, for the

American army was then retreating; a small guard only was at Fort

Edward, and in a day or two the British would have full possession of

that fort, when he could have a personal interview with her. Burgoyne,

instigated by motives of policy rather than by judgment and inclination,

pardoned the savage who scalped poor Jenny, fearing that a total

defection of the Indians would be the result of his punishment. *

Lieutenant Jones, chilled with horror and broken in spirit by the event,

tendered a resignation of his commission, but it was refused. He

purchased the scalp of his Jenny, and with this cherished memento

deserted, with his brother, before the army reached Saratoga, and

retired to Canada. Various accounts have been given respecting the

subsequent fate of Lieutenant Jones. Some assert that, perfectly

desperate and careless of life, he rushed into the thickest of the

battle on Bemis's Heights, and was slain; while others allege that he

died within three years afterward, heart-broken and insane. But neither

assertion is true. While searching for Mrs. F----n among her friends at

Glenn's Falls, I called at the

* Earl of Harrington's Evidence in Burgoyne's "State of the Expeditions.

66.

Effect of Miss M'Crea's Death on Lieutenant Jones.--Attack of Indians

upon American Troops.--Reinterment of Miss M'Crea

101

house of Judge R--s, whose lady is related by marriage to the family of

Jones. Her aunt married a brother of Lieutenant Jones, and she often

heard this lady speak of him. He lived in Canada to be an old man, and

died but a few years ago. The death of Jenny was a heavy blow, and he

never recovered from it. In youth he was gay and exceedingly garrulous,

but after that terrible event he was melancholy and taciturn. He never

married, and avoided society as much as business-would permit. Toward

the close of July in every year, when the anniversary of the tragedy

approached, he would shut himself in his room and refuse the sight of

any one; and at all times his friends avoided any reference to the

Revolution in his presence.

At the time of this tragical event-the American army under General

Schuyler was encamped at Moses's Creek, five miles below Fort Edward.

One of its two divisions was placed under the command of Arnold, who had

just reached the army. His July 03, 1777 division included the rear-

guard left at the fort. A picket-guard of one hundred men, under

Lieutenant Van Vechten, was stationed on the hill a little north of the

pine tree; and at the moment when the house of Mrs. M'Neil was attacked

and plundered, and her self and Jenny were carried off, other parties of

Indians, belonging to the same expedition, came rushing through the

woods from different points, and fell upon the Americans. Lieutenant Van

Vechten and several others were killed and their scalps borne off. Their

bodies, with that of Jenny, were found by the party that went out from

the fort in pursuit. She and the officer were lying near together, close

by the spring already mentioned, and only a few feet from the pine tree.

They were stripped of clothing, for plunder was the chief incentive of

the savages to war. They were borne immediately to the fort, which the

Americans at once evacuated, and Jane did indeed go down the river in

the bateau in which she had intended to embark, but not glowing with

life and beauty, as was expected by her fond brother. With the deepest

grief, he took charge of her mutilated corse, which was buried at the

same time and place with that of the lieutenant, on the west bank of the

Hudson, near the mouth of a small creek about three miles below Fort

Edward.

Mrs. M'Neil lived many years, and was buried in the small village

cemetery, very near the ruins of the fort. In the summer of 1826 the

remains of Jenny were taken up and deposited in the same grave with her.

They were followed by a long train of young men and maidens, and the

funeral ceremonies were conducted by the eloquent but unfortunate Hooper

Cummings, of Albany, at that time a brilliant light in the American

pulpit, but destined, like a glowing meteor, to go suddenly down into

darkness and gloom. Many who were then young have a vivid recollection

of the pathetic discourse of that gifted man, who on that occasion "made

all Fort Edward weep," as he delineated anew the sorrowful picture of

the immolation of youth and innocence upon the horrid altar of war.

A plain white marble slab, about three feet high, with the simple

inscription _Jane M'Crea_, marks the spot of her interment. Near by, as

seen in the picture, is an antique brown stone slab, erected to the

memory of Duncan Campbell, a relative of Mrs. M'Neil's first husband,

who was mortally wounded at Ticonderoga in 1758. * Several others of the

same name lie near, members of the family of Donald Campbell, a brave

Scotchman who was with Montgomery at the storming of Quebec in 1775.

"We lingered long in the cool shade at the spring before departing for

the village burial-ground where the remains of Jenny rest. As we emerged

from the woods we saw two or

* The following is the inscription: Here Lyes The Body of Duncan-

Campbell, of Inversaw. Esqr., Major to the Old Highland Regt., Aged 55

Years, Who Died The 17th July, 1758. of The Wounds He Received in the

Attack of The Retrenchments of Ticonderoga or Carillon the 8th July,

1758.

Young Girl struck by Lightning.--Village Burial-ground.--Colonel Cochran

and his Adventures.--Rogers's Island.

102

three persons with a horse and wagon, slowly ascending the hill from the

village. In the wagon, upon a mattress, was a young girl who had been

struck by lightning, two days before while drawing water from a well. *

Although alive, her senses were all paralyzed by the shock, and her

sorrowing father was carrying her home, perhaps to die. With brief words

of consoling hope, we stepped up and looked upon the stricken one. Her

breathing was soft and slow-a hectic glow was upon each cheek; but all

else of her fair young face was pale as alabaster except her lips. It

was grievous, even to a stranger, to look upon a young life so suddenly

prostrated, and we turned sadly away to go to the grave of another, who

in the bloom of young womanhood was also smitten to the earth, not by

the lightning from Heaven, but by the arm of warring man.

The village burial-ground is near the site of the fort, and was thickly

strewn with wild flowers. We gathered a bouquet from the grave of Jenny,

and preserved it for the eye of the curious in an impromptu herbarium

made of a city newspaper. A few feet from her "narrow house" is the

grave of Colonel Robert Cochran, whom I have already mentioned as

commanding a detachment of militia at Fort Edward at the time of

Burgoyne's surrender. He was a brave officer, and was warmly attached to

the American cause. In 1778 he was sent to Canada as a spy. His errand

being suspected, a large bounty was offered for his head. He was obliged

to conceal himself, and while doing so at one time in a brush-heap, he

was taken dangerously ill. Hunger and disease made him venture to a log

cabin in sight. As he approached he heard three men and a woman

conversing on the subject of the reward for his head, and discovered

that they were actually forming plans for his capture. The men soon left

the cabin in pursuit of him, and he immediately crept into the presence

of the woman, who was the wife of one of the men, frankly told her his

name, and. asked her protection. That she kindly promised him, and gave

him some nourishing food and a bed to rest upon. The men returned in the

course of a few hours, and she concealed Cochran in a cupboard, where he

overheard expressions of their confident anticipations that before

another sun they would have the rebel spy, and claim the reward. They

refreshed themselves, and set off again in search of him. The kind woman

directed him to a place of concealment, some distance from her cabin,

where she fed and nourished him until he was able to travel, and then he

escaped beyond the British lines. Several years afterward, when the war

had closed, the colonel lived at Ticonderoga, and there he accidentally

met his deliverer, and rewarded her handsomely for her generous fidelity

in the cause of suffering humanity.

Colonel Cochran died in 1812, at Sandy Hill, and was buried at Fort

Edward.

It was hot noon when I left the village cemetery, and took shelter under

the shadow of the venerable balm of Gilead tree at the place of the

water-gate of the fort. A few rods below is the mouth of Fort Edward

Creek, on the south of which the British army were encamped when

Burgoyne tarried there to send an expedition to Bennington, and, after

that disastrous affair, to recruit and discipline his forces. Dividing

the waters of the Hudson in front of the fort is Rogers's Island, a

beautiful and romantic spot, which was used as a camp-ground by the

English and French alternately during the French and Indian war. Almost

every year the

* This mournful event occurred in the village, very near the same spot

where, a year before, five men in a store were instantly killed by one

thunder-bolt.

** This sketch is taken from within the intrenchments of Fort Edward,

near the magazine, looking southwest. On the left, just beyond the balm

of Gilead tree, is seen the creek, and on the right, across the water,

Rogers's Island.

Relics found on Rogers's Island.--A remarkable Skull.--Silver Coin found

at Fort Edward.

103

plow turns lip some curious relics of the past upon the island, such as

bayonets, tomahawks, buttons, bullets, cannon-balls, coin, arrow-heads,

&c.

Dr. Norton, of Fort Edward, gave me a skull that had been exhumed there,

which is remarkable for its excessive thickness; not so thick, however,

as to resist the force of a musket-ball which penetrated it, and

doubtless deprived its owner of life. It is three eighths of an inch

thick where the bullet entered in front, and, notwithstanding its long

inhumation, the sutures are perfect. Its form is that of the negro, and

it probably belonged to the servant of some officer stationed there.

The silver coin found in the vicinity of Fort Edward is called by the

people "cob money."

The derivation of this name I could not learn. I obtained two pieces of

it, both of which are Spanish coin. The larger one is a cross-pistareen,

of the value of sixteen cents; the other is a quarter fraction of the

same coin. They are very irregular in form, and the devices and dates

are quite imperfect. The two in my possession are dated respectively

1741, 1743 These Spanish small coins composed the bulk of specie

circulation among the French in Canada at that time

Ride from Fort Edward to Glenn's Falls.--Appearance of the Country.--

Interesting Character of the Region.

104

CHAPTER V.

"Though of the past from no carved shrines,

Canvass, or deathless lyres, we learn,

Yet arbor'd streams and shadowy pines

Are hung with legends wild and stern:

In deep dark glen-on mountain side,

Are graves whence stately pines have sprung,

Naught telling how the victims died,

Save faint tradition's faltering tongue."

Street.

E dined at three, and immediately left the pleasant little village of

Fort Edward in a barouche for Glenn's Falls, by the way of Sandy Hill, a

distance of six miles. The latter village is beautifully situated upon

the high left bank of the Hudson, where the river makes a sudden sweep

from an easterly to a southerly course. Here is the termination of the

Hudson Valley, and above it the river courses its way in a narrow

channel, among rugged rocks and high, wooden bluffs, through as wild and

romantic a region as the most enthusiastic traveler could desire.

It was early in the afternoon when we reached the Mansion House at

Glenn's Falls, near the cataract. All was bustle and confusion, for here

is the brief tarrying-place of fashionable tourists on their way from

Saratoga Springs to Lake George. There was a constant arrival and

departure of visitors. Few remained longer than to dine or sup, view the

falls at a glance, and then hasten away to the grand summer lounge at

Caldwell, to hunt, fish, eat, drink, dance, and sleep to their heart's

content. We were thoroughly wearied by the day's ramble and ride, but

time was too precious to allow a moment of pleasant weather to pass by

unimproved. Comforted by the anticipation of a Sabbath rest the next

day, we brushed the dust from our clothes, made a hasty toilet, and

started out to view the falls, and search for the tarrying-place of Mrs.

F-n, of Fort Edward.

Here the whole aspect of things is changed. Hitherto our journey had

been among the quiet and beautiful; now every thing in nature was

turbulent and grand. The placid river was here a foaming cataract, and

gentle slopes, yellow with the ripe harvest, were exchanged for high,

broken hills, some rocky and bare, others green with the oak and pine or

dark with the cedar and spruce. Here nature, history, and romance

combine to interest and please, and geology spreads out one of its most

wonderful pages for the scrutiny of the student and philosopher. All

over those rugged hills Indian warriors and hunters scouted for ages

before the pale face made his advent among them; and the slumbering

echoes were often awakened in the last century by the crack of musketry

and the roar of cannon, mingled with the loud war-hoop of the Huron, the

Iroquois, the Algonquin, the Mohegan, the Delaware, the Adirondack, and

the Mohawk, when the French and English battled for mastery in the vast

forests that skirted the lakes and the St. Lawrence. Here, amid the roar

of this very cataract, if romance may be believed, the voice of Uncas,

the last of the Mohegans, was heard and heeded; here Hawk Eye kept his

vigils; here David breathed his nasal melody; and here Duncan Heyward,

with his lovely and precious wards, Alice and Cora Monroe, fell into the

hands of the dark and bitter Mingo chief. *

* See Cooper's "Last of the Mohicans."

Scenery about the Falls.--"Indian Cave" and "Big Snake".--Departure for

Lake George.

105

The natural scenery about the falls is very picturesque, but the

accompaniments of puny art are exceedingly incongruous, sinking the

grand and beautiful into mere burlesque. How expertly the genius of man,

quickened by acquisitiveness, fuses the beautiful and useful in the

crucible of gain, and, by the subtle alchemy of profit, transmutes the

glorious cascade and its fringes of rock and shrub into broad arable

acres, or lofty houses, or speeding ships, simply by catching the bright

stream in the toils of a mill-wheel. Such meshes are here spread out on

every side to ensnare the leaping Hudson, and the rickety buildings, the

clatter of machinery, and the harsh grating of saws, slabbing the huge

black marble rocks of the shores into city mantels, make horrid

dissonance of that harmony which the eye and ear expect and covet where

nature is thus beautiful and musical.

A bridge, nearly six hundred feet long, and resting in the center upon a

marble island, spans the river at the foot of the falls, and from its

center there is a fine view of the cataract. The entire descent of the

river is about sixty feet. The undivided stream first pours over a

precipice nine hundred feet long, and is then separated into three

channels by rocks piled in confusion, and carved, and furrowed, and

welled, and polished by the rushing waters.

Below, the channels unite, and in one deep stream the waters flow on

gently between the quarried cliffs of fine black marble, which rise in

some places from thirty to seventy feet in height, and are beautifully

stratified. Many fossils are imbedded in the rocks, among which the

_trilobite_ is quite plentiful. Here the heads (so exceedingly rare) are

frequently found.

By the contribution of a York shilling to an intelligent lad who kept

"watch and ward" at a flight of steps below the bridge, we procured his

permission to descend to the rocks below, and his services as guide to

the "Big Snake" and the "Indian Cave." The former is a petrifaction on

the surface of a flat rock, having the appearance of a huge serpent; the

latter extends through the small island from one channel to the other,

and is pointed out as the place where Cooper's sweet young heroines,

Cora and Alice, with Major Heyward and the singing-master, were

concealed. The melody of a female voice, chanting an air in a minor key,

came up from the cavern, and we expected every moment to hear the pitch-

pipe of David and the "Isle of Wight." The spell was soon broken by a

merry laugh, and three young girls, one with a torn barege, came

clambering up from the narrow entrance over which Uncas and Hawk Eye

cast the green branches to conceal the fugitives. In time of floods this

cave is filled, and all the dividing rocks below the main fall are

covered with water, presenting one vast foaming sheet. A long drought

had greatly diminished the volume of the stream when we were there, and

materially lessened the usual grandeur of the picture.

We passed the Sabbath at the falls. On Monday morning I arose at four,

and went down to the bridge to sketch the cascade. The whole heavens

were overcast, and a fresh breeze from the southeast was driving

portentous scuds before it, and piling them in dark masses along the

western horizon. Rain soon began to fall, and I was obliged to retreat

under the bridge, and content myself with sketching the more quiet scene

of the river and shore below the cataract.

We left Glenn's Falls in a "Rockaway" for Caldwell, on Lake George, nine

miles northward, at nine in the morning, the rain falling copiously. The

road passes over a wild, *

* This view was taken from under the bridge, looking down the river. The

noted cave opens upon the river just below where the figures stand.

Williams's Rock.--Approach of Dieskau.--Hendrick, the Mohawk Sachem.

106

broken, and romantic region. Our driver was a perfect. Jehu. The plank

road (since finished) was laid a small part of the way, and the speed he

accomplished thereon he tried to keep up over the stony ground of the

old track, to "_prevent jolting!"_

On the right side of the road, within four miles of Lake George, is a

huge boulder called "Williams's Rock." It was so named from the fact

that near it Colonel Ephraim Williams was killed on the 8th of

September, 1755, in an engagement with the French and Indians under

Baron Dieskau. Major-general (afterward Sir William) Johnson was at that

time at the head of Lake George, with a body of provincial troops, and a

large party of Indians under Hendrick, the famous Mohawk sachem.

Dieskau, who was at Skenesborough, marched along the course of Wood

Creek to attack Fort Edward, but the Canadians and Indians were so

afraid of cannon that, when within two miles of the fort, they urged him

to change his course, and attack Johnson in his camp on Lake George. To

this request he acceded, for he ascertained by his scouts that Johnson

was rather carelessly encamped, and was probably unsuspicious of danger.

Information of his march was communicated to the English commander at

midnight, September 7th, and early in the morning a council of war was

held. It was determined to send out a small party to meet the French,

and the opinion of Hendrick was asked. He shrewdly said, "If they are to

fight, they are too few; if they are to be killed, they are too many."

His objection to the proposition to separate them into three divisions

was quite as sensibly and laconically expressed. Taking three sticks and

putting them together, he remarked, "Put them together, and you can't

break them. Take them one by one, and you can break them easily."

Johnson was guided by the opinion of Hendrick, and a detachment of

twelve hundred men in one body, under Colonel Williams, was sent out to

meet the approaching enemy.

Before commencing their march, Hendrick mounted a gun-carriage and

harangued his warriors in a strain of eloquence which had a powerful

effect upon them. He was then about sixty-five years old. His head was

covered with long white locks, and every warrior loved him with the

deepest veneration. *** President Dwight, referring to this speech,

says, "Lieutenant-colonel

* This view is taken from the road, looking northward. In the distance

is seen the highest point of the French Mountain, on the left of which

is Lake George. From this commanding height the French scouts had a fine

view of all the English movements at the head of the lake.

** The portrait here given of the chief is from a colored print

published in London during the lifetime of the sachem. It was taken

while he was in England, and habited in the full court dress presented

to him by the king. Beneath the picture is engraved, "The brave old

Hendrick, the great sachem or chief of the Mohawk Indians, one of the

six nations now in alliance with, and subject to, the King of Great

Britain."

*** Hendrick (sometimes called King Hendrick) was born about 1680, and

generally lived at the Upper Castle, upon the Mohawk. He stood high in

the estimation of Sir William Johnson, and was one of the most active

and sagacious sachems of his time. When the tidings of his death were

communicated to his son, the young chief gave the usual groan upon such

occasions, and, placing his hand over his heart, exclaimed, "My father

still alive here. The son is now the father, and stands here ready to

fight."--Gentlemen's Magazine. Sir William Johnson obtained from

Hendrick nearly one hundred thousand acres of choice land, now lying

chiefly in Herkimer county, north of the Mohawk, in the following

manner: The sachem, being at the baronet's house, saw a richly-

embroidered coat and coveted it. The next morning he said to Sir

William, "Brother, me dream last night." "Indeed," answered Sir William;

"what did my red brother dream?" "Me dream that coat be mine." "It is

yours," said the shrewd baronet. Not long afterward Sir William visited

the sachem, and he too had a dream. "Brother," he said, "I dreamed last

night." "What did my pale-faced brother dream?" asked Hendrick. "I

dreamed that this tract of land was mine," describing a square bounded

on the south by the Mohawk, on the east by Canada Creek, and north and

west by objects equally well known. Hendrick was astonished. He saw the

enormity of the request, but was not to be outdone in generosity. He sat

thoughtfully for a moment, and then said, "Brother, the land is yours,

but you must not dream again." The title was confirmed by the British

government, and the tract was called the Royal Grant.-Simms's Schoharie

County, p. 124.

Speech of Hendrick.--Fight with the French, and Death of Colonel

Williams and Hendrick.--Bloody Pond.

107

Pomeroy, who was present and heard this effusion of Indian eloquence,

told me that, although he did not understand a word of the language,

such were the animation of Hendrick, the fire of his eye, the force of

his gestures, the strength of his emphasis, the apparent propriety of

the inflections of his voice, and the natural appearance of his whole

manner, that himself was more deeply affected with this speech than with

any other he had ever heard."

The French, advised by scouts of the march of the English, approached

with their line in the form of a half moon, the road cutting the center.

The country was so thickly wooded that all correct observation was

precluded, and at Rocky Brook, four miles from Lake George, Colonel

Williams and his detachment found themselves directly in the hollow of

the hall moon. A heavy fire was opened upon them in front and on both

flanks at the same moment, and the slaughter was dreadful. Colonel

Williams was shot dead near the rock before mentioned, and Hendrick

fell, mortally wounded by a musket-ball in the back. This circumstance

gave him great uneasiness, for it seemed to imply that he had turned his

back upon his enemy. The fatal bullet came from one of the extreme

flanks. On the fall of Williams, Lieutenant-colonel Whiting succeeded to

the command, and effected a retreat so judiciously that he saved nearly

all of the detachment who were not killed or wounded by the first

onslaught. *

So careless and apathetic was General Johnson, that he did not commence

throwing up breast-works at his camp until after Colonel Williams had

marched, and Dieskau was on the road to meet him. The firing was heard

at Lake George, and then the alarmed commander began in earnest to raise

defenses, by forming a breast-work of trees, and mounting two cannon

which he had fortunately received from Fort Edward the day before, when

his men thus employed should have been sent out to reenforce the

retreating regiment. Three hundred were, indeed, sent out, but were

totally inadequate. They met the flying English, and, joining in the

retreat, hastened back to the camp, closely pursued by the French.

A short distance from Williams's Rock is a small, slimy, bowl-shaped

pond, about three hundred feet in diameter, and thickly covered with the

leaves of the water-lily. It is near the battle-ground where Williams

and his men were slain, and the French made it the sepulcher for the

slaughtered Englishmen. Tradition avers that for many years its waters

bore a bloody hue,

* Colonel Ephraim Williams was born in 1715, at Newton, Massachusetts.

He made several voyages to Europe in early life. Being settled at

Stockbridge when the war with France, in 1740, commenced, and possessed

of great military talent, he was intrusted with the command of the line

of Massachusetts forts on the west side of the Connecticut River. He

joined General Johnson, at the head of a regiment, in 1755, and, as we

have seen, fell while gallantly leading his men against the enemy. By

his will, made before joining Johnson, he bequeathed his property to a

township west of Fort Massachusetts, on the condition that it should be

called Williamstown, and the money used for the establishment and

maintenance of a free school. The terms were complied with, and the

school was afterward incorporated (1793) as a college. Such was the

origin of Williams's College. Colonel Williams was forty years old at

the time of his death.

Arrival at Caldwell. Indian and French Names of Lake George. Fort

William Henry. Attack upon Johnson's Camp, 1755

108

and it has ever since been called _Bloody Pond_. I alighted in the rain,

and made my way through tall wet grass and tangled vines, over a newly-

cleared field, until I got a favorable view for the sketch here

presented, which I hope the reader will highly prize, for it cost a pair

of boots, a linen "sack" ruined by the dark droppings from a cotton

umbrella, and a box of cough lozenges.

It was almost noon when we reined up at the Lake House at Caldwell. We

had anticipated much pleasure from the first sight of Horicon, but a

mist covered its waters, and its mountain frame-work was enveloped in

fog; so we reserved our sentiment for use the next fair day, donned dry

clothing, and sat quietly down in the parlor to await the sovereign

pleasure of the storm.

Lake George is indeed a beautiful sheet of water, and along its whole

length of thirty-six miles almost every island, bay, and bluff is

clustered with historic associations. On account of the purity of its

waters, the Indians gave it the name of _Horicon, or Silver Water._ They

also called it _Canideri-oit_, or _The Tail of the Lake_, on account of

its connection with Lake Champlain. * It was visited by Samuel Champlain

in 1609, and some suppose that he gave his name to this lake instead of

the one which now bears it. It is fair to infer, from his own account,

that he penetrated southward as far as Glenn's Falls; and it is not a

little remarkable that in the same year, and possibly at the same

season, Hendrick Hudson was exploring below the very stream near the

head-waters of which the French navigator was resting. Strange that two

adventurers, in the service of different sovereigns ruling three

thousand miles away, and approaching from different points of the

compass, so nearly met in the vast forests of wild America. The French,

who afterward settled at Chimney Point, on Lake Champlain, frequently

visited this lake, and gave it the name of _Sacrament_, its pure waters

suggesting the idea. **

The little village of Caldwell contains about two hundred inhabitants,

and is situated near the site of Fort William Henry, at the head of the

lake, a fortress erected by General Johnson toward the close of 1755,

after his battle there with the French under Dieskau. That battle

occurred on the same day when Colonel Williams and his detachment were

routed at Rocky Brook. The French pursued the retreating English

vigorously, and about noon they were seen approaching in considerable

force and regular order, aiming directly toward the center of the

British encampment. When within one hundred rods of the breast-works, in

the open valley in front of the elevation on which Fort George (now a

picturesque ruin) was afterward built, Dieskau halted and disposed his

Indians and Canadians upon the right and left flanks. The regular

troops, under the immediate command of the baron, attacked the English

center, but, having only small arms, the effect was trifling. The

English reserved their fire until the Indians and Canadians were close

upon them, when with sure aim they poured upon them a volley of musket-

balls which mowed them down like grass before the

* Spafford's Gazetteer of New York.

** The bed of the lake is a yellowish sand, and the water is so

transparent that a white object, such as an earthen plate, may be seen

upon the bottom at a depth of nearly forty feet. The delicious salmon

trout, that weigh from five to twenty pounds, silver trout, pike,

pickerel, and perch are found here in great abundance, and afford fine

sport and dainty food for the swarms of visitors at the Lake House

during the summer season.

*** The extent of the embankments and fosse of this fort was fourteen

hundred feet, and the barracks were built of wood upon a strong

foundation of lime-stone, which abounds in the neighborhood. This plan

is copied from a curious old picture by Blodget, called a "Prospective

Plan of the Battles near Lake George 1755."

Battle of Lake George, and Death of Dieskau.--Weakness of British

Commanders.--The Six Nations.--Hendrick's Rebuke.

109

scythe. At the same moment a bomb-shell was thrown among them by a

howitzer, while two field pieces showered upon them a quantity of grape-

shot. The savage allies, and almost as savage colonists, greatly

terrified, broke and fled to the swamps in the neighborhood. The

regulars maintained their ground for some time, but, abandoned by their

companions, and terribly galled by the steady fire from the breast-

works, at length gave way, and Dieskau attempted a retreat. Observing

this, the English leaped over their breast-works and pursued them. The

French were dispersed in all directions, and Dieskau, wounded and

helpless, was found leaning upon the stump of a tree. As the provincial

soldier * who discovered him approached, he put his hand in his pocket

to draw out his watch as a bribe to allow him to escape. Supposing that

he was feeling for a pocket pistol, the soldier gave him a severe wound

in the hip with a musket-ball. He was carried into the English camp in a

blanket and tenderly treated, and was soon afterward taken to Albany,

then to New York, and finally to England, where he died from the effects

of his wounds. Johnson was wounded at the commencement of the conflict

in the fleshy part of his thigh, in which a musket-ball lodged, and the

whole battle was directed for five consecutive hours by General Lyman,

the second in command. **

Johnson's Indians, burning with a fierce desire to avenge the death of

Hendrick, were eager to follow the retreating enemy; and General Lyman

proposed a vigorous continuation of efforts by attacking the French

posts at Ticonderoga and Crown Point, on Lake Champlain. But Johnson,

either through fear, a love of ease, or some other inexplicable cause,

withheld his consent, and the residue of the autumn was spent in

erecting Fort William Henry.

In the colonial wars, as well as in the war of our Revolution, the

British government was often unfortunate in its choice of commanders.

Total inaction, or, at best, great tardiness, frequently marked their

administration of military affairs. They could not comprehend the

elastic activity of the provincials, and were too proud to listen to

their counsels. This tardiness and pride cost them many misfortunes,

either by absolute defeat in battle, or the theft of glorious

opportunities for victory through procrastination. Their shrewd savage

allies saw and lamented this, and before the commissioners of the

several colonies, who met at Albany in 1754 to consult upon a plan of

colonial alliance, in which the Six Nations *** were invited to join,

Hendrick administered a pointed rebuke to the governor and military

commanders. The sachems were first addressed by James Delaney, then

lieutenant-governor of New York; and Hendrick, who was a principal

speaker, in the course of a reply remarked, "Brethren, we have not as

yet confirmed the peace with them (meaning the French-Indian allies).

'Tis your fault, brethren; we are not strengthened by conquest, for we

should have gone and taken Crown Point, but you hindered us. We had

concluded to go and take it, but were told it was too late, that the ice

would not bear us. Instead of this, you burned your own fort at _Sar-

ragh-to-gee_ [near old Fort Hardy], and ran away from it, which was a

shame and a scandal to you. Look about your country, and see; you have

no fortifications about you--no, not even to this city. 'Tis but one

step from Canada hither, and the French may easily come and turn you out

of doors.

"Brethren, you were desirous we should open our minds and our hearts to

you: look at

* This soldier is believed to have been General Seth Pomeroy, of

Northampton, Massachusetts.-Everett's Life of Stark.

** At this battle General Stark, the hero of Bennington, then a

lieutenant in the corps of Rogers's Rangers, was first initiated in the

perils and excitements of regular warfare.

*** The Six Nations consisted of the tribes of the Mohawks, Onondagas,

Oneidas, Senecas, Cayugas, and Tuscaroras. The first five were a long

time allied, and known as the Five Nations. They were joined by the

Tuscaroras of North Carolina in 1714, and from that time the

confederation was known by the title of the Six Nations. Their great

council fire was in the special keeping of the Onondagas, by whom it was

always kept burning. This confederacy was a terror to the other Indian

tribes, and extended its conquests even as far as South Carolina, where

it waged war against, and nearly exterminated, the once powerful

Catawbas. When, in 1744, the Six Nations ceded a portion of their lands

to Virginia, they insisted on the continuance of a free war-path through

the ceded territory.

Lord Loudon. Montcalm's first Attack on Fort William Henry.--Perfidy and

Cowardice of Webb.--Vigilance of Stark

110

the French, they are men--they are fortifying every where; but, we are

ashamed to say it, you are like women, bare and open, without any

fortifications."*

The head of Lake George was the theater of a terrible massacre in 1757.

Lord Loudon, a man of no energy of character, and totally deficient in

the requisites for a military leader, was appointed that year governor

of Virginia, and commander-in-chief of all the British forces in North

America. A habit of procrastination, and his utter indecision, thwarted

all his active intentions, if he ever had any, and, after wasting the

whole season in getting here and preparing to do something, he was

recalled by Pitt, then prime minister, who gave as a reason for

appointing Lord Amherst in his place, that _the minister never heard

from him, and could not tell what he was doing._ **

Opposed to him was the skillful and active French commander, the Marquis

Montcalm, who succeeded Dieskau. Early in the spring he made an attempt

to capture Fort William March 16, 1757 Henry. He passed up Lake George

on St. Patrick's eve, landed stealthily behind Long Point, and the next

afternoon appeared suddenly before the fort. A part of the garrison made

a vigorous defense, and Montcalm succeeded only in burning some

buildings and vessels which were out of reach of the guns at the fort.

*** He returned to Ticonderoga, at which post and at Crown Point he

mustered all his forces, amounting to nine thousand men, including

Canadians and Indians, and in July prepared for another attempt to

capture Fort William Henry.

General Webb, who was commander of the forces in that quarter, was at

Fort Edward with four thousand men. He visited Fort William Henry under

an escort of two hundred men commanded by Major Putnam, and while there

he sent that officer with eighteen Rangers down the lake, to ascertain

the position of the enemy on Champlain. They were discovered to be more

numerous than was supposed, for the islands at the entrance of Northwest

Bay were swarming with French and Indians. Putnam returned, and begged

General Webb to let him go down with his Rangers in full force and

attack them, but he was allowed only to make another reconnoissance, and

bring off two boats and their crews which he left fishing. The enemy

gave chase in canoes, and at times nearly surrounded them, but they

reached the fort in safety.

Webb caused Putnam to administer an oath of secrecy to his Rangers

respecting the proximity of the enemy, and then ordered him to escort

him back immediately to Fort Edward. This order was so repugnant to

Putnam, both as to its perfidy and unsoldierly character, that he

ventured to remonstrate by saying, "I hope your excellency does not

intend to neglect so fair an opportunity of giving battle should the

enemy presume to land." Webb coolly and cowardly replied, "What do you

think we should do here?" The near approach of the enemy was cruelly

concealed from the garrison, and under his escort the general returned

to Fort Edward. The next day he sent Colonel Monroe with a regiment to

re-enforce and to take command of the garrison at Lake George.

Montcalm, with more than nine thousand men, and a powerful train of

artillery, landed

* Reported for the Gentlemen's Magazine, London, 1755.

** This is asserted by Dr. Franklin in his Autobiography (Sparks's Life,

219), where he gives an anecdote illustrative of the character of

Loudon. Franklin had occasion to go to his office in New York, where he

met a Mr. Innis, who had brought dispatches from Philadelphia from

Governor Denny, and was awaiting his lordship's answer, promised the

following day. A fortnight afterward he met Innis, and expressed his

surprise at his speedy return. But he had not yet gone, and averred that

he had called at Loudon's office every morning during the fortnight, but

the letters were not yet ready. "Is it possible," said Franklin, "when

he is so great a writer? I see him constantly at his escritoire." "Yes,"

said Innis, "but he is like St. George on the signs, _always on

horseback, but never rides forward_."

*** The garrison and fort were saved by the vigilance of Lieutenant

Stark, who, in the absence of Rogers, had command of the Rangers, a

large portion of which were Irishmen. On the evening of the 16th he

overheard some of these planning a celebration of St. Patrick's (the

following day). He ordered the sutler not to issue spirituous liquors

the next day without a written order. When applied to he pleaded a lame

wrist as an excuse for not writing, and his Rangers were kept sober. The

Irish in the regular regiments got drunk, as usual on such an occasion..

Montcalm anticipated this, and planned his attack on the night of St.

Patrick's day. Stark, with his sober Rangers, gallantly defended and

saved the fort.

Montcalm's second Attack on Fort William Henry.--Surrender of the

Garrison.--Perfidy of the French and Indians.

111

at the head of the lake, and beleaguered the garrison, consisting of

less than three thousand men. * He sent in proposals to Monroe for a

surrender of the fort, urging his humane desire to prevent the bloodshed

which a stubborn resistance would assuredly cause. Monroe, confidently

expecting re-enforcements from Webb, refused to listen to any such

proposals. The French then commenced the siege, which lasted six

consecutive days, without much slaughter on either side. Expresses were

frequently sent to General Webb in the mean while, imploring aid, but he

remained inactive and indifferent in his camp at Fort Edward. General

Johnson was at last allowed to march, with Putnam and his Rangers, to

the relief of the beleaguered garrison; but when about three miles from

Fort Edward, Webb recalled them, and sent a letter to Monroe, saying he

could render him no assistance, and advising him to surrender. This

letter was intercepted by Montcalm, and gave him great joy, for he had

been informed by some Indians of the movements of the provincials under

Johnson and Putnam, who represented them to be as numerous as the leaves

on the trees. Alarmed at this, Montcalm was beginning to suspend the

operations of the siege preparatory to a retreat, when the letter from

the pusillanimous Webb fell into his hands. He at once sent it in to

Monroe, with proposals for an immediate surrender.

Monroe saw that his case was hopeless, for two of his cannon had

bursted, and his ammunition and stores were nearly exhausted. Articles

of capitulation were agreed upon, and, under promise of protection, the

garrison marched out of the fort preparatory to being escorted to Fort

Edward. **

The savages, two thousand warriors in number, were enraged at the terms

of capitulation, for they were induced to serve in this expedition by a

promise of plunder. *** This was denied them, and they felt at liberty

to throw off all restraint. As soon as the last man left the gate of the

fort, they raised the hideous war-whoop, and fell upon the English with

the fury of demons. The massacre was indiscriminate and terrible, and

the French were idle spectators of the perfidy of their allies. They

refused interference, withheld the promised escort, and the savages

pursued the poor Britons with great slaughter, half way to Fort Edward.

**** Fifteen hundred of them were butchered or carried into hopeless

captivity. Montcalm utterly disclaimed all connivance, and declared his

inability to prevent the massacre without ordering his men to fire upon

the Indians. But it left a deep stain upon his otherwise humane

character, and the indignation excited by the event aroused the English

colonists to more united and vigorous action.

Montcalm burned and otherwise destroyed every thing connected with the

fortification. Major Putnam, who had been sent with his Rangers from

Fort Edward August 1757 to watch the movements of Montcalm, reached Lake

George just as the rear of the enemy left the shore, and truly awful was

the scene there presented, as described by himself: "The fort was

entirely demolished; the barracks, out-houses, and buildings were a heap

of ruins; the cannon, stores, boats, and vessels were all carried away.

The fires were still burning, the smoke and stench offensive and

suffocating. Innumerable fragments, human skulls and bones, and

carcasses half consumed, were still frying and broiling in the decaying

fires.

* The place where Montcalm landed is a little north of the Lake House,

at Caldwell, and about a mile from the site of the fort.

** It was stipulated, 1st. That the garrison should march out with their

arms and baggage; 2d. Should be escorted to Fort Edward by a detachment

of French troops, and should not serve against the French for a term of

eighteen months; 3d. The works and all the warlike stores should be

delivered to the French, 4th. That the sick and wounded of the garrison

should remain under the protection of Montcalm, and should be permitted

to return as soon as they were recovered.

*** Dr. Belknap.

**** The defile through which the English retreated, and in which so

many were slaughtered, is called the Bloody Defile. It is a deep gorge

between the road from Glenn's Falls to Lake George and the high range of

hills northward, called the French Mountain. In excavations for the

plank road near the defile a large number of skeletons were exhumed. I

saw the skull of one, which was of an enormous size, at least one third

larger than any other human head I ever saw. The occipital portion

exhibited a long fracture, evidently made by a tomahawk.

Destruction of Fort William Henry.--Brilliant Expedition under

Abercrombie.--Visit to the Ruins of Fort George

112

Dead bodies, mangled with scalping-knives and tomahawks in all the

wantonness of Indian fierceness and barbarity, were every where to be

seen. More than one hundred women, butchered and shockingly mangled, lay

upon the ground, still weltering in their gore. Devastation, barbarity,

and horror every where appeared, and the spectacle presented was too

diabolical and awful either to be endured or described."

Fort William Henry was never rebuilt. Upon an eminence about a mile

southeast of it, and half a mile from the lake, Fort George was erected,

but it was never a scene of very stirring events. A little south of Fort

George was a small fortification called Fort Gage, so named in honor of

General Gage, who served under Lord Amherst, and succeeded him in the

command of the forces in America in 1760, and was Governor of

Massachusetts when the Revolution broke out. Hardly a vestige of this

fort can now be seen.

The English, under General Abercrombie and the young Lord Howe,

quartered at Fort George in 1758, preparatory to an attack upon the

French posts upon Lake Champlain. Seven thousand regulars and nine

thousand provincial troops were there assembled, with a one train of

artillery and all necessary military stores, the largest and best-

appointed army yet seen in America. On the 5th of July they embarked on

Lake George, on board nine hundred bateaux and one hundred and thirty-

five whale-boats, and the next day landed at the foot of the lake and

pushed on toward Ticonderoga. Of the events which befell them there I

shall hereafter write. Let us glance a moment at the present.

Toward evening the rain abated, and, accompanied by an old resident

shoemaker as guide, I made a visit to the remains of the two English

forts. The elder one (Fort William Henry) stood directly upon the lake

shore, on the west side of a clear mountain stream called West Creek,

the main inlet of Lake George. Nothing of it now remains but a few

mounds and shallow ditches, so leveled and filled that the form of the

works can not be distinctly traced. The road along the lake shore passes

across the northeast and northwest angles, but the features of the past

are hardly tangible enough to attract the attention of a passer-by. A

little southwest of the fort, at the base of Rattlesnake or Prospect

Hill, is a level clearing called the French Field. It is the place where

Dieskau halted and disposed his troops for action. Many of the slain

were buried there; and I saw a rough-hewn stone at the head of a grave,

upon which was inscribed, in rude characters, "Jacques Cortois, 1755."

Fort George, the remains of which are scattered over several acres, was

situated about a mile southeast from William Henry, upon an eminence

gently sloping back from the lake. The dark limestone or black marble,

such as is found at Glenn's Falls, here every where approaching near the

surface or protruding above, formed a solid foundation, and supplied

ample materials for a fortress. A quadrangular citadel, or sort of

castle, was built within the lines of breast-works, and the ruins of

this constitute all that is left of the old fort. I observed vestiges of

the foundations of the barracks and other buildings; and the quarries

whence materials were taken for the buildings and ramparts seem almost

as fresh as if just opened. The wall of the citadel, on the eastern side

(the left of the picture), is now about twenty feet high. Within the

ancient area of the fort there is just sufficient earth to nourish a

thick growth of dark juniper bushes, which, with the black rocks and

crumbling masonry, presented a somber aspect. Both forts commanded a

fine view of the lake for ten miles north.

The indications of fair weather which lured me out suddenly disappeared,

and before I reached the Lake House the heavy clouds that came rolling

up from the south poured down their contents copiously. Dark masses of

vapor hovered upon the mountains that begirt the lake, and about sunset

the tops

Storm upon Lake George.--Arrivals from Ticonderoga.--Departure from

Caldwell.

113

were buried in the driving mists. We seemed to be completely shut up

within mighty prison walls, and early in the evening vivid lightning and

heavy thunder-peals contributed to produce a scene of singular grandeur

and awe. In the midst of the elemental strife the steam-boat arrived

with passengers from Ticonderoga, and those pleasure seekers who came in

her, bedraggled and weary, were capital studies for an artistic Jeremiah

in search of lamentations personified. But an excellent supper, in dry

quarters, soon brought the sunshine of gladness to every face, and

before ten o'clock more than half the new-comers were among the

liveliest in quadrille, cotillion, waltz, or gallopade.

I arose the next morning at four. The scene from my chamber window was

one of quiet beauty. The sky was cloudless, and the lake, without a

ripple, was spread out before me,

"A glorious mirror of the Almighty's form."

The east was all glowing with the soft radiance of approaching sunlight,

giving a deeper gray to the lofty hills that intervened, and every tree

was musical with the morning song of the birds.

"The south wind was like a gentle friend,

Parting the hair so softly on my brow.

It had come o'er the gardens, and the flowers

That kissed it were betrayed; for as it parted

With its invisible fingers my loose hair,

I knew it had been trifling with the rose

And stooping to the violet. There is joy

For all God's creatures in it."

Willis.

From the piazza of the Lake House, fronting the water, a comprehensive

view of the historic grounds in the vicinage may be seen, as delineated

in the picture. In the extreme distance on the left is the range of the

French Mountain, and on the right is Rattlesnake Hill (one thousand five

hundred feet high), with other lofty elevations, heavily wooded to their

very summits. By the trees on the shore, in the center of the picture,

is the site of Fort William Henry; and further on the left, and directly

over the flag-staff is the site of Fort George.

We left this fine summer resort in the steam-boat William Caldwell, at

eight in the morning. The air was clear and cool, the company agreeable,

and the voyage down the lake delightful. The mountain shores, the deep

bays, and the numerous islands (said to be three hundred and sixty-five,

the number of days in the year) present a constant variety, and all that

the eye takes in on every side is one vision of beauty. I procured a

seat in the pilot's room aloft, whence I had a broad view of the whole

ever-changing panorama of the lake in the course of the voyage.

The first island which we passed, of any considerable size, was Diamond

Island, * lying

* This name was given it on account of the number and beauty of the

quartz crystals which are found upon it. In shape and brilliancy they

resemble pure diamonds.

Diamond Island.--Successful Expedition under Colonel Brown.--Long Point,

Dome Island, and the Narrows.

114

directly in front of Dunham's Bay. Here was a depot of military stores

for Burgoyne's army in 1777, and the scene of a sharp conflict between

the small garrison that defended it and a detachment of Americans under

Colonel Brown. Between the actions of the 19th of September and 7th of

October at Bemis's Heights, General Lincoln, with a body of New England

militia, got in the rear of Burgoyne near Lake Champlain. He sent

Colonel Brown with a strong division to attempt the recapture of

Ticonderoga and the posts in the vicinity, and thus to cut off the

retreat of the British as well as their supplies. It was a service

September 25, 1777 exactly suited to Brown's active and energetic

character, and, by a rapid and stealthy movement on a stormy night, he

surprised and captured all the British outposts between the landing-

place at the north end of Lake George and the main fortress at

Ticonderoga. Mount Hope, Mount Defiance, the French lines, and a block-

house, with an armed sloop, two hundred bateaux, and several gun-boats,

fell into his hands. He also captured two hundred and ninety-three

prisoners, and released one hundred Americans; and, among other things,

he retook the old Continental standard which St. Clair left at

Ticonderoga when he evacuated that post. He then attacked the fortress,

but its walls were impregnable, and he withdrew.

Flushed with success, Colonel Brown determined to sweep Lake George, and

in the vessels they had captured the Americans proceeded to Diamond

Island. The little garrison there made a vigorous resistance, and the

republicans were repulsed with some loss. They then pushed for the shore

on the south side of Dunham's Bay, where they burned all the vessels

they had captured, and returned to Lincoln's camp.

A little north of Diamond Island is Long Island, which lies directly in

front of Long Point, a narrow, fertile strip of land that projects far

into the lake from the eastern shore. The estuary between the north side

of the point and the mountains is Harris's Bay, the place where Montcalm

moored his bateaux and landed on the 16th of March, 1757.

About twelve miles from Caldwell, in the center of the lake, is Dome

Island, which, at the distance of two or three miles, has the appearance

of the upper portion of a large dome, with an arch as regular as if made

by art. This island was the shelter for Putnam's men whom he left in the

two boats while he informed General Webb of the presence of the French

and Indians upon the two islands near the entrance of Northwest Bay, and

nearly in front of the landing-place at Bolton, on the western shore.

Shelving Rock, a lofty cliff on the eastern shore, and Tongue Mountain,

a bold, rocky promontory on the west, flank the entrance to the Narrows,

where the islands are so numerous, varying in size from a few rods to an

acre, that there is only a very narrow channel for a steam-boat to pass

through. A little north of Shelving Rock is the Black Mountain, its

summit twenty-two hundred feet high, thickly covered with the dark

spruce, and its sides robed with the cedar, fir, pine, and tamarac.

There the wild deer, the bear, and the catamount have free range, for

the hunter seldom toils up its weary ascent.

* This little sketch was taken from the steam-boat, near the south end

of Long Island, which appears in the foreground. Long Point is seen in

the center, and on the right are Dunham's Bay and the northern extremity

of the French Mountain. The highest peak on the left is Deer Pasture, or

Buck Mountain

Sabbath Day Point.--Skirmish in 1756.--Halt of Abercrombie's Army.--

Splendid Appearance of the Armament.

115

A few miles beyond the entrance to the Narrows, on the western shore, is

another fertile strip of land projecting into the lake, called Sabbath

Day Point. It is between three and four miles from the little village of

Hague, in the midst of the most picturesque scenery imaginable. Here, in

1756, a small provincial force, pressed by a party of French and

Indians, and unable to escape across the lake, made a desperate

resistance, and defeated the enemy with considerable slaughter. Here, in

the summer of 1758, General Abercrombie, with his fine army, already

noticed as having embarked in bateaux and whale-boats at the head of the

lake, landed for refreshments. It was just at dark, on a sultry Saturday

July 5, 1758 evening, when the troops debarked and spread over the

beautiful cape for a few hours' repose. The young Lord Howe, the well-

beloved of both officers and soldiers, was there, and called around him,

in serious consultation, some of the bravest of the youthful partisans

who accompanied the expedition. Captain Stark (the Revolutionary

general) was invited to sup with him; and long and anxious were the

inquiries the young nobleman made respecting the fortress of Ticonderoga

and its outposts, which they were about to assail, as if a presentiment

of personal disaster possessed his mind.

It was after midnight when the whole armament moved slowly down the

lake, and it was late on the Sabbath morning before they reached the

landing-place at the foot of it. ** The scene exhibited by this strong

and well-armed force of sixteen thousand men was very imposing. "The

order of march," says Major Rogers, "exhibited a splendid military

show." Howe, in a large boat, led the van of the flotilla. He was

accompanied by a guard of Rangers and boatmen. The regular troops

occupied the center and the provincials the wings. The sky was clear and

starry, and not a breeze ruffled the dark waters as they slept quietly

in the shadows of the mountains. Their oars were muf-

* 'Explanation of "the references: 1. Fort Ticonderoga. 2. Fort Howe. 3.

Mount Defiance. 4. Mount Independence. 5. Village of Alexandria. 7.

Black Point. 8. Juniper Island. 9. Anthony's Nose. 10. M'Donald's Bay.

11. Rogers's retreat on the ice to Fort William Henry. 12. Cook's

Islands. 13. Scotch Bonnet. 14. Odell Island. 15. Buck Mountain and

Rattlesnake Dens. 16. Shelving Rock. 17. Phelps's Point. 18. Long Point.

19. Long Island. 20. Dome Island. 21. Diamond Island. 22. Dunham's Bay.

23. Harris's Bay. 24. The route of Dieskau from Skenesborough to Fort

William Henry.

** It being early on Sunday morning when the army left the point,

General Abercrombie named the place Sabbath Day Point. The little sketch

here given was taken from the steam-boat, half a mile above, look ing

northeast.

Skirmish at Sabbath Day Point, 1776.--Rogers's Slide.--Narrow Escape of

Major Rogers.--Prisoners' Island

116

fled; and so silently did they move on in the darkness, that not a scout

upon the hills observed them. Day dawned just as they were abreast of

the Blue Mountain, four miles from the landing-place; and the first

intimation which the outposts of the enemy, stationed there, had of the

approach of the English was the full blaze of red uniforms which burst

upon their sight as the British army swept around a point and prepared

to land.

At Sabbath Day Point a party of American militia of Saratoga county had

a severe battle with Tories and Indians in 1776. Both were scouting

parties, and came upon each other unexpectedly. The Americans repulsed

the enemy, and killed and wounded about forty. There are now a few

buildings upon the point, and the more peaceful heroism of the

culturist, in conflict with the unkindness of nature, is beautifying and

enriching it.

On the western shore of the lake, three miles northward of the little

village of Hague, is Rogers's Bock, or Rogers's Slide. The lake is here

quite narrow, and huge masses of rocks, some a hundred feet high, are

piled in wild confusion on every side. The whole height of Rogers's Rock

is about four hundred feet, and the "slide," almost a smooth surface,

with a descent on an angle of about twenty-five degrees from meridian,

is two hundred feet. This hill derives its name from the fact, that from

its summit Major Rogers, commander of a corps of Rangers, escaped from

Indian pursuers. With a small party who were reconnoitering at the

outlet of the lake, in the winter of 1758, he was surprised and put to

flight by a band of Indians. He was equipped with snow-shoes, and eluded

pursuit until he came to the summit of the mountain. Aware that they

would follow his track, he descended to the top of the smooth rock, and,

casting his knapsack and his haversack of provisions down upon the ice,

slipped off his snow-shoes, and, without moving them, turned himself

about and put them on his feet again. He then retreated along the

southern brow of the rock several rods, and down a ravine he made his

way safely to the lake below, snatched up his pack, and fled on the ice

to Fort George. The Indians, in the mean while, coming to the spot, saw

the two tracks, both apparently approaching the precipice, and concluded

that two persons had cast themselves down the rock rather than fall into

their hands. Just then they saw the bold leader of the Rangers making

his way across the ice, and believing that he had slid down the steep

face of the rock, considered him (as did the Indians Major Putnam at

Fort Miller) under the special protection of the Great Spirit, and made

no attempt at pursuit. **

In consequence of a detention at Bolton, we did not reach the landing-

place at the outlet of the lake until noon. Within a mile of the landing

is a small island covered with shrubbery, called Prisoners' Island,

where the French, in the Seven Years' War, kept their English captives

who were taken in that vicinity. The first party confined there easily

es-

* This sketch is from the lake, a little south of Cook's Point, seen

just over the boat on the left. Immediately beyond is seen the smooth

rock. Nearly opposite the "slide" is Anthony's Nose, a high, rocky

promontory, having the appearance of a human nose in shape when viewed

from a particular point.

** Major Rogers was the son of an Irishman, who was an early settler of

Dumbarton, in New Hampshire. He was appointed to the command of a party

of Rangers in 1755, and with them did signal serviee to the British

cause. In 1759 he was sent by General Amherst from Crown Point to

destroy the Indian village of St. Francis. He afterward served in the

Cherokee war. In 1766 he was appointed governor of Michilli-maekinae. He

was accused of constructive treason, and was sent in irons to Montreal

for trial. In 1769 he went to England, was presented to the king, but

soon afterward was imprisoned for debt. He returned to America, and in

the Revolution took up arms for the king. In 1777 he returned to

England, where he died. His name was on the proscription list of Tories

included in the aet of New Hampshire against them, in 1778. His journal

of the French War, first published at London in 1765, was republished at

Concord in 1831.

Debarkation of British Troops.--A pleasant traveling Companion.-- Trip

from Lake George to Ticonderoga.

117

caped, in consequence of the carelessness of the victors in not

ascertaining the depth of the water, which on one side is fordable. A

small guard was left in charge of them, and, as soon as the main body of

the French had retreated, the English prisoners _waded_ from the island

and escaped.

Directly west of this island is Howe's Landing, the place where Lord

Howe with the van-guard of Abercrombie's army first landed, the outlet,

a mile below, being in possession of the enemy. The whole British force

debarked here on the morning after leaving Sabbath Day Point, and before

noon the Rangers under Rogers and Stark were pushing July 6, 1758

forward toward Ticonderoga, as a flank or advance-guard to clear the

woods, while the main army pressed onward.

The distance from the steam-boat landing to Fort Ticonderoga is four

miles. We found vehicles in abundance awaiting our arrival, and prepared

to carry passengers with all their baggage, from a clean dickey only to

a four-feet trunk, for twenty-five cents each. I succeeded in securing

my favorite seat on a pleasant day, the coachman's perch. At the Lake

House we became acquainted with a young lady from the vicinity of the

lofty Catskills, whose love of travel and appreciation of nature made

her an enthusiast, and one of the most agreeable companions imaginable.

She fairly reveled in the beauties of Lake George, not exhibited in the

simpering lip-sentimentality, borrowed from the novelist, which so often

annoys the sensible man when in the midst of mere fashionable tourists,

but in hearty, intelligent, and soul-stirring emotions of pleasure,

which lie far deeper in the heart than mortal influence and fashion, and

which gleam out in every lineament of the face. While others were afraid

of spoiling their complexions in the sun, or of crumpling their smooth

dresses or fine bonnets, she bade defiance to dust and crowds, for her

brown linen "sack," with its capacious pockets for a guide-book and

other accessories, and her plain sun-bonnet gave her no uneasiness; and

her merry laughter, which awoke ringing echoes along the hills as she,

too, mounted the coachman's seat to enjoy the fresh air and pleasant

landscape, was the very soul of pleasure. We rambled with herself and

brother that afternoon over the ruins of Ticonderoga, and at evening

parted, company. We hope her voyage of life may be as pleasant and

joyous as those few hours which she spent that day, where,

"In the deepest core

Of the free wilderness, a crystal sheet

Expands its mirror to the trees that crowd

Its mountain borders."

The road from the foot of Lake George to Fort "Ty" is hilly, but the

varied scenery makes the ride a pleasant one. We crossed the outlet of

the lake twice; first at the Upper Falls, where stands the dilapidated

village of Alexandria, its industrial energies weighed down, I was told,

by the narrow policy of a "lord of the manor" residing in London, who

owns the fee of all the land and of the water privileges, and will not

sell, or give long leases. The good people of the place pray for his

life to be a short and a happy one-a very generous supplication. From

the high ground near the village a fine prospect opened on the eastward;

and suddenly, as if a curtain had been removed, the cultivated farms and

pleasant villages of Vermont along the lake shore, and the blue line of

the Green Mountains in the far distance, were spread out before us.

The second or Lower Falls is half way between the two lakes, and here

the thriving village of Ticonderoga is situated. A bridge and a saw-mill

were there many years before the Revolution; and this is the spot where

Lord Howe, at the head of his column, crossed the stream and pushed

forward through the woods toward the French lines, a mile and a quarter

beyond. We arrived at the Pavilion near the fort at one o'clock, dined,

and with a small party set off immediately to view the interesting ruins

of one of the most noted fortresses in America. Before noticing its

present condition and appearance, let us glance at its past history.

Ticonderoga is a corruption of Cheonderoga, an Iroquois-word, signifying

"Sounding wa

Topography of Ticonderoga.--The Fortress.--Its Investment by

Abercrombie.--Bravery of Lord Howe.

118

ters," and was applied by the Indians to the rushing waters of the

outlet of Lake George at the falls. The French, who first built a fort

at Crown Point (Fort St. Frederic), established themselves upon this

peninsula in 1755, and the next year they began the erection of a strong

fortress, which they called _Fort Carillon_. * The Indian name was

generally applied to it, and by that only was it known from the close of

the French and Indian war in 1763. **

The peninsula is elevated more than one hundred feet above the lake, and

contains about five hundred acres. Nature and art made it a strong

place. Water was upon three sides, and a deep swamp extended nearly

across the fourth. Within a mile north of the fortress intrenchments

were thrown up, the remains of which may still be seen at each side of

the road, and are known as the French lines. The whole defenses were

completed by the erection of a breast-work nine feet high, upon the

narrowest part of the neck between the swamp and the outlet of Lake

George; and before the breast-work was a strong _abatis._

Here, as I have already mentioned, was the general rendezvous of the

French under Montcalm, August 3, 1757 preparatory to the attack on Fort

William Henry. It continued to be the head-quarters of that general

until Quebec was threatened by an expedition under Wolfe, up the St.

Lawrence, when he abandoned the posts on Lake Champlain, and mustered

all his forces at the capital of Lower Canada.

Montcalm commanded a force of four thousand men at Ticonderoga when

Abercrombie July 6, 1758 approached, and was in daily expectation of

receiving a re-enforcement of three thousand troops under M. de Levi.

The English commander was advised of this expected re-enforcement of the

garrison, and felt the necessity of making an immediate attack upon the

works. His army moved forward in three columns; but so dense was the

forest that covered the whole country, that their progress was slow.

They were also deficient in suitable guides, and in a short time were

thrown into a great deal of confusion. They pressed steadily forward,

and the advanced post of the French (a breast-work of logs) was set fire

to by the enemy themselves and abandoned. Lord Howe, who was

Abercrombie's lieutenant, or second in command, led the advanced column;

and as they pressed onward after crossing the bridge, Major Putnam, with

about one hundred men, advanced as a scouting party to reconnoiter. Lord

Howe, eager to make the first attack, proposed to accompany Putnam, but

the major tried to dissuade him, by saying, "My lord, if I am killed the

loss of my life will be of little consequence, but the preservation of

yours is of infinite importance to this army." The answer was, "Putnam,

your life is as dear to you as mine is to me. I am determined to go."

*** They dashed on through the woods, and in a few minutes fell in with

the advanced guard of the French, who had retreated from the first

breast-works, and, without a guide and bewildered, were endeavoring to

find their way back to the lines. A sharp skirmish ensued, and at the

first fire Lord Howe, another officer, and several privates were

* This is a French word, signifying chime, jingling, noise, bawling,

scolding, racket, clatter, riot.--Boyer. Its application to this spot

had the same reference to the rush of waters as the Indian name Che-

onderoga.

** This fortress was strongly built. Its walls and barracks were of

limestone, and every thing about it was done in the most substantial

manner. Explanation of the ground plan: a, entrance and wicket gate; b,

counterscarp twenty feet wide; c c, bastions; d, under-ground room and

ovens; e e e e, barracks and officers' quarters; f court or parade-

ground; g g, trench or covert-way, sixteen feet wide and ten feet deep;

h, the place where Ethan Allen, and his men entered by a covert-way from

the outside.

*** Humphrey's Life ef Putnam..

Fight with the French, and Death of Howe.--Attack on Ticonderoga, and

Defeat of the English.--Other Expeditions

119

killed. * The French were repulsed with a loss of three hundred killed

and one hundred and forty-eight taken prisoners. The English columns

were so much broken, confused, and fatigued, that Abercrombie marched

them back to the landing-place on Lake George, to bivouac for the night.

Early the next morning Colonel Bradstreet advanced and took possession

of the saw-mills, near the present village of Ticonderoga, which the

enemy had abandoned.

Abercrombie sent an engineer to reconnoiter, and on his reporting that

the works were unfinished and might easily be taken, the British troops

were again put in motion toward the fortress. As they approached the

lines, the French, who were completely July 8, 1758 sheltered behind

their breast-works, opened a heavy discharge of artillery upon them, but

they pressed steadily forward in the face of the storm, determined to

assault the works, and endeavor to carry them by sword and bayonet. They

found them so well defended by a deep _abatis_, that it was almost

impossible to reach them; yet, amid the galling fire of the enemy, the

English continued for four hours striving to cut their way through the

limbs and bushes to the breast-works with their swords. Some did,

indeed, mount the parapet, but in a moment they were slain. Scores of

Britons were mowed down at every discharge of cannon. Perceiving the

rapid reduction of his army, Abercrombie at last sounded a retreat, and,

without being pursued by the French, the English fell back to their

encampment at the foot of Lake George, from which the wounded were sent

to Fort Edward and to Albany The English loss was nearly two thousand

men and twenty-five hundred stand of arms. Never did troops show bolder

courage or more obstinate persistence against fearful obstacles. The

whole army seemed emulous to excel, but the Scotch Highland regiment of

Lord John Murray was foremost in the conflict, and suffered the severest

loss. One half of the privates and twenty-five officers were slain on

the spot or badly wounded. Failing in this attempt, Abercrombie changed

his plans. He dispatched General Stanwix to build a fort near the head-

waters of the Mohawk, at the site of the present village of Rome, Oneida

county. Colonel Bradstreet, at his own urgent solicitation, was ordered,

with three thousand troops, mostly provincials, to proceed by the way of

Oswego and Lake Ontario, to attack Fort Frontenac, where Kingston, in

Upper Canada, now stands; and himself, with the rest of the army,

returned to Albany. **

While misfortunes were attending the English under the immediate command

of Abercrombie, and the power and influence of the French were gaining

strength on the lake, a British force was closely beleaguering

Louisburg, on the Island of Cape Breton, at the mouth of the St.

Lawrence, then the strongest fortification in America, and the rallying

point of French power on this Continent. Early in 1758 Admiral Boscawen

sailed fromMay 28.

* George, Lord-viscount Howe, was the eldest son of Sir E. Scrope,

second Viscount Howe in Ireland. He commanded five thousand British

troops which landed at Halifax in 1757, and, as we have seen, the next

year accompanied General Abercrombie against Ticonderoga. Alluding to

his death, Mante observes, "With him the soul of the army seemed to

expire." He was the idol of his soldiers, and, in order to accommodate

himself and his regiment to the nature of the service, he cut his hair

short, and fashioned his clothes for activity. His troops followed his

example, and they were, indeed, the soul of Abercrombie's army. He was

in the thirty-fourth year of his age when he fell. The General Court of

Massachusetts Bay, as a testimony of respect for his character,

appropriated two hundred and fifty pounds sterling for the erection of a

monument in Westminster Abbey. Captain (afterward general) Philip

Schuyler, who was highly esteemed by Lord Howe, and who at that time was

employed in the commissary department, was commissioned to carry the

young nobleman's remains to Albany and bury them with appropriate

honors. They were placed in a vault, and I was informed by a daughter of

General Schuyler (Mrs. Cochran, of Oswego) that when, many years

afterward, the coffin was opened, his hair had grown to long, flowing

locks, and was very beautiful.

** General James Abercrombie was descended from a wealthy Scotch family,

and, in consequence of signal services on the Continent, was promoted to

the rank of major general. In 1758 fifty thousand troops were placed

under his command by Mr. Pitt, and sent with him to America to attempt a

recovery of all that the French had taken from the English. He was the

successor of Lord Loudon, but was not much superior to the earl in

activity or military skill. He was superseded by Amherst after his

defeat at Ticonderoga, and in the spring of 1759 he returned to England.

Siege and Capture of Louisburg.--Preparations for the Conquest of

Canada.--Capture of Ticonderoga and Crown Point.

120

Halifax, Acadia, * with forty armed vessels, bearing a land force of

twelve thousand men under General Amherst. General Wolfe was second in

command; and in appointing that young soldier to a post so important,

Pitt showed that sagacity in correctly appreciating character for which

he was so remarkable.

On the 2d of June the fleet anchored in Gabarus Bay, and the whole

armament reached the shore on the 8th. The French, alarmed at such a

formidable force, called in their outposts, dismantled the royal

battery, and prepared for a retreat. But the vigilance and activity of

Wolfe prevented their escape. He passed around the Northeast Harbor, and

erected a battery at the North Cape, from which well-directed shots soon

silenced the guns of the smaller batteries upon the island. Hot shots

were also poured June 25 into the small fleet of French vessels lying in

the harbor of Louisburg, and three of them were burned. The town was

greatly shattered by the active artillery; the vessels which were not

consumed were dismantled or sunken; and several breaches were July 21

made in the massive walls. Certain destruction awaited the garrison and

citizens, and at last the fortress, together with the town and St.

John's (now Prince Edward's July 26. Island) was surrendered into the

hands of the English by capitulation.

The skill, bravery, and activity of General Amherst, exhibited in the

capture of Louisburg, gained him a vote of thanks from Parliament, and

commended him to Pitt, who, the next year, appointed him to the chief

command in America, in place of the less active Abercrombie. So much did

Pitt rely upon his judgment and ability, that he clothed him with

discretionary powers to take measures to make the complete conquest of

all Canada in a single campaign. His plans were arranged upon a

magnificent scale. Appreciating the services of Wolfe, one expedition

was placed under his command, to ascend the St. Lawrence and attack

Quebec. General Prideaux was sent with another expedition to capture the

strong-hold of Niagara, while Amherst himself took personal command of a

third expedition against the fortress on Lake Champlain. It was arranged

for the three armies to form a junction as conquerors at Quebec.

Prideaux, after capturing the fort at Niagara, was to proceed down the

lake and St. Lawrence to attack Montreal and the posts below, and

Amherst was to push forward after the capture of Ticonderoga and Crown

Point, down the Richelieu or Sorel Elver to the St. Lawrence, and join

with Wolfe at Quebec.

Amherst collected about eleven thousand men at Fort Edward and its

vicinity, and, moving cautiously along Lake Champlain, crossed the

outlet of Lake George, and appeared before Ticonderoga on the 26th of

July. He met with no impediments by the way, and at once made

preparations for reducing the fortress by a regular siege. The garrison

were strong, and evinced a disposition to make a vigorous resistance.

They soon discovered, however, that they had not Abercrombie to deal

with, and, despairing of being able to hold out against the advancing

English, they dismantled and abandoned the fort, and fled to Crown

Point. Not a gun was fired or a sword crossed; and the next day Amherst

marched in and took possession of the fort. He at once set about

repairing and enlarging it, and also arranging an expedition against the

enemy at Crown Point, when, to his astonishment, he learned from his

scouts that they had abandoned that post also, and fled down the lake to

Isle Aux Noix in the Richelieu or Sorel. Of his operations in that

direction I shall hereafter write.

* Acadia was the ancient name of the whole country now comprehended

within the boundaries of Nova Scotia, or New Scotland.

Ticonderoga and its Associations.--Visit to the Ruins of the Fort.-- A

living Soldier of the Revolution 121 121

CHAPTER VI.

"I'm not romantic, but, upon my word,

There are some moments when one can't help feeling

As if his heart's chords were so strongly stirred

By things around him, that 'tis vain concealing

A little music in his soul still lingers,

Whene'er the keys are touched by Nature's fingers."

C. F. Hoffman.

ATURE always finds a chord of sympathy in the human heart harmoniously

respondent to her own sweet music; and when her mute hut eloquent

language weaves in with its teachings associations of the past, or when,

in the midst of her beauties, some crumbling monument of history stands

hoary and oracular, stoicism loses its potency, and the bosom of the

veriest churl is opened to the genial warmth of the sun of sentiment.

Broken arches and ruined ramparts are always eloquent and suggestive of

valiant deeds, even where their special teachings are not comprehended;

but manifold greater are the impressions which they make when the

patriotism we adore has hallowed them. To impressions like these the

American heart is plastic while tarrying among the ruins of Ticonderoga,

for there the first trophy of our war for independence was won, and

there a soldier of the British realm first stooped a prisoner to the

aroused colonists, driven to rebellion by unnatural oppression.

A glimpse from the coach, of the gray old ruins of the fortress of "Ty,"

as we neared the Pavilion, made us impatient as children to be among

them. Our own curiosity was shared by a few others, and a small party of

us left early and ascended the breast-works, over scattered fragments of

the walls, and eagerly sought out the most interesting localities, by

the aid of a small plan of the fort which I had copied for the occasion.

Without a competent guide, our identifications were not very reliable,

and our opinions were as numerous and diverse as the members of our

party. We were about to send to the Pavilion for a guide and umpire,

when a venerable, white-haired man, supported by a rude staff, and

bearing the insignia of the "Order of Poverty," came out from the ruins

of the northern line of barracks, and offered his services in

elucidating the confused subject before us. He was kind and intelligent,

and I fingered with him among the ruins long after the rest of the party

had left, and listened with pleasure and profit to the relation of his

personal experience, and of his familiar knowledge of the scene around

us.

Isaac Rice was the name of of our octogenarian guide, whose form and

features, presented upon the next page, I sketched for preservation. *

Like scores of those who fought our battles for freedom, and lived the

allotted term of human fife, he is left in his evening twilight to

depend upon the cold friendship of the world for sustenance, and to feel

the practical ingratitude of a people reveling in the enjoyment which

his privations in early manhood contributed to secure He performed

garrison duty at Ticonderoga under St. Clair, was in the field at

Saratoga in 1777, and served a regular term in the army; but, in

consequence of some lack of doc-

* Mr. Rice sat down in the cool shadow of the gable of the western line

of barracks while I sketched his person and the scenery in the distance.

He is leaning against the wall, within a few feet of the entrance of the

covert-way to the parade-ground, through which Allen and his men

penetrated. In the middle ground is seen the wall of the ramparts, and

beyond is the lake sweeping around the western extremity of Mount

Independence, on the left beyond the steam-boat. For a correct

apprehension of the relative position of Mount Independence to

Ticonderoga, the reader is referred to the map, ante page 115.

Isaac Rice.--Position of Affairs in the Colonies at the beginning of

1775.--Secret Agent sent to Canada

122uments or some technical error, he lost his legal title to a pension,

and at eighty-five years of age that feeble old soldier was obtaining a

precarious support for himself from the free-will offerings of visitors

to the ruins of the fortress where he was garrisoned when it stood in

the pride of its strength, before Burgoyne scaled the heights of Mount

Defiance. He is now alone, his family and kindred having all gone down

into the grave.

His elder brother, and the last of his race, who died in 1838, was one

of the little band who, under Colonel Ethan Allen, surprised and

captured Fort Ticonderoga in the spring of 1775. We will consider that

event and its consequences before further examining the old ruins around

us.

The contempt with which the loyal and respectful addresses of the first

Continental Congress of 1774 were treated by the British ministry and a

majority in Parliament; the harsh measures adopted by the government

early in 1775, to coerce the colonists into submission, and the

methodical tyranny of General Gage at Boston, and of other colonial

governors, convinced the Americans that an appeal to arms was

inevitable. They were convinced, also, that the province of Quebec, or

Canada, would remain loyal, * and that there would be a place of

rendezvous for British troops when the colonies should unite in open and

avowed rebellion. The strong fortresses of Ticonderoga and Crown Point

formed the key of all communication between New York and Canada, and the

vigilant patriots of Massachusetts, then the very hot-bed of rebellion,

early perceived the necessity of securing these posts the moment

hostilities should commence. Early in March, Samuel Adams and Joseph

Warren, members of the Committee of Correspondence of Boston, sent a

secret agent into Canada to ascertain the opinions and temper of the

people of that province concerning the great questions at issue and the

momentous

* On the 26th of October, 1774, the Congress adopted an address to the

people of Canada, recounting the grievances the American colonies

suffered at the hands of the parent country, and including that province

in the category of the oppressed, urging them to affiliate in a common

resistance. But its Legislative Assembly made no response, and Congress

construed their silence into a negative.--Journals of Congress, i., 55

Report of the secret Agent.--Plan formed in Connecticut to Capture

Ticonderoga.--Expedition under Ethan Allen.

events 123then pending. After a diligent but cautious performance of his

delicate task, the agent sent word to them from Montreal that the people

were, at best, lukewarm, and advised that, the moment hostilities

commenced, Ticonderoga and its garrison should be seized, This advice

was coupled with the positive assertion that the people of the New

Hampshire Grants were ready to undertake the bold enterprise. *

Within three weeks after this information was received by Adams and

Warren, the battle of Lexington occurred. The event aroused the whole

country, and the patriots April 19, 1775 looked to the neighborhood of

Boston from all quarters. The provincial Assembly of Connecticut was

then in session, and several of its members ** concerted and agreed upon

a plan to seize the munitions of war at Ticonderoga, for the use of the

army gathering at Dambridge and Roxbury. They appointed Edward Mott and

Noah Phelps a committee to proceed to the frontier towns, ascertain the

condition of the fort and the strength of the garrison, and, if they

thought it expedient, to raise men and attempt the surprise and capture

of the post. One thousand dollars were advanced from the provincial

treasury to pay the expenses of the expedition.

The whole plan and proceedings were of a private character, without the

public sanction of the Assembly, but with its full knowledge and tacit

approbation. Mott and Phelps collected sixteen men as they passed

through Connecticut; and at Pittsfield, Massachusetts, they laid their

plans before Colonel Easton and John Brown (the latter was afterward the

Colonel Brown whose exploits on Lake George have been noticed), who

agreed to join them. Colonel Easton enlisted volunteers from his

regiment of militia as he passed through the country, and about forty

had been engaged when he reached Bennington. There Colonel Ethan Allen,

a man of strong mind, vigorous frame, upright in all his ways, fearless

in the discharge of his duty, and a zealous patriot, joined the

expedition with his _Green Mountain Boys_, and the whole party, two

hundred and seventy men, reached Castleton, fourteen miles east of

Skenesborough, or Whitehall, at dusk on the 7th of May. A council of war

was immediately held, and Allen was appointed commander of the

expedition, Colonel James Easton, second in command, and Seth Warner,

third. It was arranged that Allen and the principal officers, with the

main body, should march to Shoreham, opposite Ticonteroga; that Captain

Herrick, with thirty men, should push on to Skenesborough, and capture

the young Major Skene (son of the governor, who was then in England),

confine his people, and, seizing all the boats they might find there,

hasten to join Allen at Shoreham;

* By the grant of Charles II. to his brother James, duke of York, the

tract in America called New York was bounded on the east by the

Connecticut River, while the charters of Massachusetts and Connecticut

gave those provinces a westward extent to the "South Sea" or the Pacific

Ocean. When, toward the middle of the last century, settlements began to

be made westward of the Connecticut River, disputes rose, and the line

between Connecticut and New York was finally drawn, by mutual agreement,

twenty miles east of the Hudson. Massachusetts claimed a continuation of

the Connecticut line as its western boundary, but New York contested the

claim as interfering with prior grants to that colony. New Hampshire,

lying north of Massachusetts, was not as yet disturbed by these

disputes, for the country west of the Green Mountains was a wilderness,

and had never been surveyed. When Benning Wentworth was made Governor of

New Hampshire, he was authorized to issue patents for unimproved lands

within his province, and in 1749 applications were made to him for

grants beyond the mountains. He gave a patent that year for a township

six miles square, having its western line twenty miles east of the

Hudson; and in his honor it was named Bennington. The Governor and

Council of New York remonstrated against this grant, yet Wentworth

continued to issue patents; and in 1754 fourteen townships of this kind

were laid out and settlements commenced. During the French and Indian

war settlements increased tardily, but after the victory of Wolfe at

Quebec numerous applications for grants were made; and at the time of

the peace, in 1763, one hundred and thirty-eight townships were surveyed

west of the Connecticut River, and these were termed the New Hampshire

Grants., The controversy between New York and the Grants became so

violent that military organizations took place in the latter section to

resist the civil power of New York, and about 1772 the military thus

enrolled were first called Green Mountain Boys; among the most active

and daring of whom were Ethan and Ira Allen and Remember Baker, men of

whom I shall have occasion to speak hereafter.--See Sparks's Life of

Ethan Allen, and Thompson's Vermont, part ii.

** Among these were Silas Deane, David Wooster, Samuel H. Parsons, and

Edward Stevens, all distinguished men during the Revolution.

Expedition against Ticonderoga.--Arnold joins Allen at Castleton. --

Dispute about Rank.--Surprise of the Garrison

124and that Captain Douglas should proceed to Panton, beyond Crown

Point, and secure every boat or bateau that should fall in his way.

Benedict Arnold, who joined the army about this time, doubtless received

a hint of this expedition before he left New Haven, for the moment he

arrived at Cambridge with the company of which he was captain, he

presented himself before the Committee of Safety, and proposed a similar

expedition in the same direction. He made the thing appear so feasible,

May 3, 1775that the committee eagerly accepted his proposal, granted him

a colonel's commission, and gave him the chief command of troops, not

exceeding four hundred in number, which he might raise to accompany him

on an expedition against the lake fortresses. Not doubting his success,

Arnold was instructed to leave a sufficient garrison at Ticonderoga, and

with the rest of the troops return to Cambridge with the arms and

military stores that should fall into his possession. He was also

supplied with one hundred pounds in cash, two hundred pounds weight each

of gunpowder and leaden balls, one thousand flints, and ten horses, by

the provincial Congress of Massachusetts. His instructions were to raise

men in Western Massachusetts, but, on reaching Stockbridge, he was

disappointed in finding that another expedition had anticipated him, and

was on its way to the lake. He remained only long enough to engage a few

officers and men to follow him, and then hastened onward and May 9, 1775

joined the other expedition at Castleton. He introduced himself to the

officers, pulled a bit of parchment from his pocket, and, by virtue of

what he averred was a superior commission, as it was from the

Massachusetts Committee of Safety, claimed the supreme command. This was

objected to, for he came single-handed, without officers or troops; and

the soldiers, a large proportion of whom were Green Mountain Boys, and

who were much attached to Allen, declared that they would shoulder their

muskets and march home rather than serve under any other leader. Arnold

made a virtue of necessity, and united himself to the expedition as a

volunteer, maintaining his rank, but having no command.

The momentary interruption of Arnold produced no change in the plans,

and Allen marched to the shore of the lake, opposite Ticonderoga, during

the night. He applied to a farmer in Shoreham, named Beman, for a guide,

who offered his son Nathan, a lad who passed a good deal of time within

the fort, with the boys of the garrison, and was well acquainted with

every secret way that led to or within the fortress. * But a serious

difficulty now occurred. They had but a few boats, and none had been

sent from Skenesborough or May 10, 1775 Panton. The day began to dawn,

and only the officers and eighty-three men had crossed the lake. Delay

was hazardous, for the garrison, if aroused, would make stout

resistance. Allen, therefore, resolved not to wait for the rear division

to cross, but to attack the fort at once. He drew up his men in three

ranks upon the shore, directly in front of where the Pavilion now

stands, and in a low but distinct tone briefly harangued them; and then,

placing himself at their head, with Arnold by his side, they marched

quickly but stealthily up the height to the sally port. The sentinel

snapped his fusee at the commander, but it missed fire, and he retreated

within the fort under a covered way. The Americans followed close upon

his heels, and were thus guided by the alarmed fugitive directly to the

parade within the barracks. There another sentinel made a thrust at

Easton, but a blow upon the head from Allen's sword made him beg for

quarter, and the patriots met with no further resistance.

As the troops rushed into the parade under the covered way, they gave a

tremendous shout, and, filing off into two divisions, formed a line of

forty men each along the southwestern and northeastern range of

barracks. The aroused garrison leaped from their pallets, seized their

arms, and rushed for the parade, but only to be made prisoners by the

intrepid New Englanders. At the same moment Allen, with young Beman at

his elbow as guide, ascended the steps to the door of the quarters of

Captain Delaplace, the commandant

* He died in December, 1846, in Franklin county, New York, when nearly

ninety years old. He had lived to see our confederacy increase from

thirteen to thirty states, and from three millions of people to twenty

millions.

Interview between Allen and Delaplaee.--Allen's Order to surrender

obeyed.--Trouble with Arnold about command.

125of the garrison, and, giving three loud raps with the hilt of his

sword, with a voice of peculiar power, ordered him to appear, or the

whole garrison should be sacrificed. It was about four o'clock in the

morning. The loud shout of the invaders had awakened the captain and his

wife, both of whom sprang to the door just as Allen made his strange

demand. Delaplace appeared in shirt and drawers, with the frightened

face of his pretty wife peering over his shoulder. He and Allen had been

old friends, and, upon recognition, the captain assumed boldness, and

authoritatively demanded his disturber's errand. Allen pointed to his

men and sternly exclaimed, "I order you instantly to surrender."

"By what authority do _you_ demand it?" said Delaplaee. "In the name of

the Great Jehovah and the Continental Congress!" * thundered Allen, and,

raising his sword over the head of the captain, who was about to speak,

ordered him to be silent and surrender immediately. There was no

alternative. Delaplaee had about as much respect for the "Continental

Congress" as Allen had for "Jehovah," and they respectively relied upon

and feared powder and ball more than either. In fact, the Continental

Congress was but a shadow, for it did not meet for organization until

six hours afterward, ** and its "authority" was yet scarcely

acknowledged even by the patriots in the field. But Delaplaee ordered

his troops to parade without arms, the garrison of forty-eight men were

surrendered prisoners of war, and, with the women and children, were

sent to Hartford, in Connecticut. The spoils were one hundred and twenty

pieces of iron cannon, fifty swivels, two ten-inch mortars, one

howitzer, one cohorn, ten tons of musket-balls, three cart-loads of

flints, thirty new carriages, a considerable quantity of shells, a ware-

house full of material for boat building, one hundred stand of small

arms, ten casks of poor powder, two brass cannon, thirty barrels of

flour, eighteen barrels of pork, and some beans and peas.

Warner crossed the lake with the rear division, and marched up to the

fort just after the surrender was made. As soon as the prisoners were

secured, and all had breakfasted, he was sent off with a detachment of

men in boats to take Crown Point; but a strong head wind drove them

back, and they slept that night at Ticonderoga. Another and successful

attempt was made on the 12th, and both fortresses fell into the hands of

the patriots without bloodshed.

Arnold, who yielded his claims to supreme command at Castleton, assumed

control the moment the fort was surrendered. But his orders were not

heeded, and the Connecticut Committee, *** of semi-official origin,

which accompanied the expedition, interposed, formally installed Colonel

Allen in the command of Ticonderoga and its dependencies, and authorized

him to remain as such until the Connecticut Assembly or the Continental

Congress should send him instructions. They affirmed that the government

of Massachusetts had no part in the transaction; that the men from

Pittsfield were paid by Connecticut; and that Arnold could be considered

only as a volunteer. Finding his commands unheeded, and unwilling to

allow personal considerations to affect, inimically, the public good,

Arnold again yielded He sent a written protest, with a statement of his

grievances, to the Massachusetts Legislature. The Connecticut Committee

also sent a statement to the same body. The appointment of Allen was

confirmed, and the Assembly of Massachusetts directed Arnold not to

interfere. He soon afterward went down the lake to seize a British sloop

of war at St. John's, and to seek other occasions where glory might be

won in the service of his country.

The capture of Ticonderoga and Crown Point was an event wholly unlooked

for by the

* According to Mr. Rice, history has omitted the suffix to this demand,

which in those days was considered a necessary clincher to all solemn

averments. It is characteristic of the man and the times. Rice's brother

was within a lew feet of Allen, and said he exclaimed, "In the name of

the Great Jehovah and the Continental Congress, by God."

** The second Continental Congress assembled at Philadelphia at ten

o'clock that day (May 10th), and chose Peyton Randolph President, and

Charles Thompson Secretary.

*** One of the committee, Mr. Phelps, visited the fort, in disguise, the

day before Allen and his men arrived. He pretended to be a countryman

wishing to be shaved, and, while looking about for the garrison barber,

observed every thing carefully, and saw the dilapidation of the walls

and the laxity of duty and discipline, particularly as to sentinels.

Forbearance of the Colonists.--Consistent Course of their Delegates in

Congress.--Various Addresses of the second Congress.

126Continental Congress, then in session at Philadelphia, and many

members were alarmed at the serious aspect of affairs at the east and

north, for as yet the Americans had harbored no distinct thought or wish

derogatory to the truest loyalty. They were aggrieved by the rulers and

legislators of the parent country, and were earnestly seeking redress.

Ten years they had been petitioning the king and Parliament to exercise

righteousness and equity toward them, but their prayers were unheeded

and their warnings were scoffed at and answered by new oppressions. Yet

the colonists remained loyal, and never breathed an aspiration for

political independence. The colonial Assemblies, as well as the mass of

the people, looked forward with anxiety for a reconciliation, for they

felt proud of their connection with the British realm, whose government

was then among the most powerful upon earth.*

When the news of the capture of the forts on Champlain reached Congress,

they recommended to the committees of New York and Albany to remove the

cannon and stores to the south end of Lake George, and to erect a strong

post at that place. They also directed an exact inventory of the cannon

and military stores to be taken, "in order," as the dispatch said, "that

they may be safely returned when the restoration of harmony between

Great Britain and the colonies, _so ardently desired by the latter_,

shall render it prudent and consistent with the over-ruling law of self-

preservation." **

The delegates to the first Continental Congress, who met in September of

the previous year, while they exhibited rare firmness of purpose in tone

and manner, again and again avowed their loyalty, and made most humble

petitions to the king and the Legislature for a redress of grievances.

And those of the Congress in session when the first hostile movements on

Lake Champlain occurred, while they saw clearly that nothing but a

general resort to arms was now left for the colonists, resolved to make

fresh appeals to the king and Parliament before taking decidedly

offensive steps in acts of open hostility. They felt quite certain,

however, that the haughtiness of power would not bend so long as its

pride was wounded, and that it would never yield to an agreement for a

reconciliation upon terms other than the absolute submission of the

insurgents. Congress, therefore, correctly representing the public

sentiment, resolved to be, at the same time, _free men_ and _loyal

subjects_ as long as a link of consistency should bind those conditions

in unity. They adopted an a-May 29, 1775 address to the inhabitants of

Canada;(a) a declaration, setting forth the causes and b-July 6the

necessity for the colonies to take up arms;(b) an humble petition to the

king; July 8 address to the Assembly of Jamaica;(d) *** and an address

to the people of IreJuly 25land.(e) **** To the king they expressed

their continued devotion to his person, and

July 28 their deep regret that circumstances had in the least weakened

their attachment to the crown. To the people of Great Britain they

truthfully declared that their acts were wholly defensive; that the

charge which had been made against them, of seeking absolute

independence, was a malicious slander; and that they had never, directly

or indirectly, applied to a foreign power for countenance or aid in

prosecuting a rebellion. They truly set forth that the rejection of

their petitions and the accumulation of oppressive acts of Parliament

were the causes that placed them in the attitude of resistance which

they then assumed--an atti-

* The affections of the people of the colonies were very much alienated

by the grievances of the Stamp Act in 1765, and kindred measures, yet

they still had a strong attachment to the mother country, even when the

Revolution finally broke out. Dr. Franklin's testimony in 1766 may be

quoted as illustrative of the temper of the people nearly ten years

later. In answer to the question concerning the feelings of the people

of America toward Great Britain before the passage of the Stamp Act, he

said, "They had not only a respect but an affection for Great Britain,

for its laws, its customs, and its manners, and even a fondness for its

fashions, that greatly increased the commerce. Natives of Britain were

always treated with particular regard; and to be an Old Englandman was

of itself a character of some respect, and gave a kind of rank among

us."--Examination of Dr. Franklin before the British House of Commons

relative to the Repeal of the American Stamp Act.

** Pitkin, i., 355.

*** Jamaica, one of the West India Islands, was then a British colony,

with a provincial Legislature like those on the American Continent.

**** See Journals of Congress, i., p. 100-168.

Military Preparations made by Congress.--The Continental Army.-- Spirit

of the People.--Ticonderoga.

127tude at once necessary and justifiable, and worthy of the free

character of subjects of the British realm. "While we revere," they

said, "the memory of our gallant and virtuous ancestors, we never can

surrender these glorious privileges for which they fought, bled, and

conquered: your fleets and armies can destroy our towns and ravage our

coasts; these are inconsiderable objects--things of no moment to men

whose bosoms glow with the ardor of liberty. We can retire beyond the

reach of your navy, and, without any sensible diminution of the

necessaries of life, enjoy a luxury which, from that period, you will

want--the luxury of being free."

While petitions and addresses were in course of preparation and

adoption, Congress proceeded to make extensive military arrangements.

The militia of the various colonies, and such volunteers as could be

obtained, were mustered into service under the title of the Continental

army; and the troops which had flocked to the vicinity of Boston from

all parts of New England after the skirmishes at Lexington and

Concord,(a) and were then investing that city, were adopted and enrolled

under the April 19, 1775 same title.(b) Congress voted to issue bills ol

credit, or paper money, to the amount of three millions of dollars, for

the pay of the army, and also took measures for the June, 1775

establishment of provisional Assemblies in the several colonies instead

of the royal governments; for acts of Parliament, declaring the colonies

in a state of rebellion, and providing for the destruction of the

commerce of several sea-port towns, and for the sending of fleets and

armies to enforce submission, were regarded by the Americans as virtual

acknowledgments of the abdication of all power here. * Thus, while the

colonists kept the door of reconciliation wide open, they prepared to

maintain the righteous position which they had assumed at all hazards.

Let us for a moment close the chronicles of the past, and consider one

of the most interesting relics of the Revolution yet remaining--the

ruins of Ticonderoga. I lingered with the old soldier among the

fragments of the fortress until sunset; and just as the luminary

* See Parliamentary Register (1775), p 6-69.

Present Appearance of Fort Ticonderoga and Vicinity.--The Bakery.--

Grenadiers' Battery

128went down behind Mount Defiance I made the preceding sketch, which

may be relied upon as a faithful portraiture of the present features of

Fort Ticonderoga. The view is from the remains of the counterscarp, near

the southern range of barracks, looking northward. The barracks or

quarters for the officers and soldiers were very substantially built of

limestone, two stories high, and formed a quadrangle. The space within

was the parade. Upon the good authority of his brother, our venerable

guide pointed out the various localities of interest, and, having no

doubt as to the correctness of his information, I shall accord it as

truth The most distinct and best-preserved building seen in the sketch

is the one in which the commandant of the garrison was asleep when Allen

and his men entered the fort. On the left of the group of figures in the

fore-ground is the passage leading from the covered way into the parade,

through which the provincials passed. The two lines of forty men each

were drawn up along the range of buildings, 'the remains of which are

seen on the right and left of the picture. The most distant building was

the officers' quarters. A wooden piazza, or sort of balcony, extended

along the second story, and was reached from the ground by a flight of

stairs at the left end. The first door in the second story, on the left,

was the entrance to Delaplace's apartment. It was up those rickety

steps, with young Beman at his side, that Colonel Allen ascended; and at

that door he thundered with his sword-hilt, confronted the astonished

captain, and demanded his surrender. Between the ruined walls on the

extreme left is seen Mount Defiance, and on the right is Mount Hope. The

distant wall in the direction of Mount Hope is a part of the ramparts or

out-works, and the woods beyond it mark the location of the remains of

the "French lines," the mounds and ditches of which are still very

conspicuous.

Near the southeastern angle of the range of barracks is the bakery; it

is an under-ground arched room, and was beneath the _glacis_, perfectly

bomb-proof, and protected from all danger from without. This room is

very well preserved, as the annexed sketch of it testifies; but the

entrance steps are much broken, and the passage is so filled with

rubbish that a descent into it is difficult. It is about twelve feet

wide and thirty long. On the right is a window, and at the end were a

fire-place and chimney, now in ruins. On either side of the fire-place

are the ovens, ten feet deep.

We had no light to explore them, but they seemed to be in good condition

This bakery and the ovens are the best-preserved portions of the

fortress. For more than half a century the walls of the fort have been

common spoil for all who chose to avail themselves of such a convenient

quarry; and the proximity of the lake affords rare facility for builders

to carry off the plunder. The guide informed me that sixty-four years

ago he assisted in the labor of loading a vessel with bricks and stones

taken from the fort, to build an earthen-ware factory on Missisqui Bay,

the eastern fork of the lower end of Lake Champlain. Year after year the

ruins thus dwindle, and, unless government shall prohibit the robbery,

this venerable landmark of history will soon have no abiding-place among

us. The foundation is almost a bare rock, earthed sufficient to give

sustenance to mullens, rag-weed, and stinted grass only, so that the

plowshare can have no effect; but desecrating avarice, with its wicked

broom, may sweep the bare rock still barer, for the site is a glorious

one for a summer hotel for invalids. I shall, doubtless, receive

posthumous laudation for this suggestion from the money-getter who here

shall erect the colonnade, sell cooked fish and flavored ices, and coin

wealth by the magic of the fiddle-string.

On the point of the promontory, just above the steam-boat landing, are

the remains of the "Grenadiers' Battery," a strong redoubt built of

earth and stone. It was constructed by the French, and enlarged by the

English. It commanded the narrow part of the lake, between that point

and Mount Independence, and covered the bridge, which was made by the

Americans, extending across to the latter eminence. The bridge was

supported by

The floating Bridge.--View of the Ruins by Moonlight.--The old Patriot,

his Memories and Hopes.

129twenty-two sunken piers of large timber, at nearly equal distances;

the space between was made of separate floats, each about fifty feet

long and twelve feet wide, strongly fastened together by chains and

rivets, and also fastened to the sunken piers. Before this bridge was a

boom, made of very large pieces of timber, fastened together by riveted

bolts and chains of iron, an inch and a half square. * There was a

battery at the foot of Mount Independence, which covered that end of the

bridge; another half way up the hill; and upon the table-land summit was

a star fort well picketed. Here, strongly stationed, the Americans held

undisputed possession from the 10th of May, 1775, until the 5th of July,

1777, when they were dislodged by Burgoyne, who began to plant a battery

upon Sugar Hill, or Mount Defiance. This event we shall consider

presently.

I went up in the evening to view the solitary ruins by moonlight, and

sat upon the green sward of the old esplanade near the magazine. All was

hushed, and association, with its busy pencil, wrought many a startling

picture. The broken ruins around me, the lofty hills adjacent, the quiet

lake at my feet, all fading into chaos as the evening shadows came on,

were in consonance with the gravity of thought induced by the place and

its traditions.

"The darkening woods, the fading trees,

The grasshopper's last feeble sound,

The flowers just waken'd by the breeze,

All leave the stillness more profound.

The twilight takes a deeper shade,

The dusky pathways blacker grow,

.

And silence reigns in glen and glade--

All, all is mute below."

_Miller's Evening Hymn_.

So smoothly ran the current of thought, that I was almost dreaming, when

a footstep startled me. It was that of the old patriot, who came and sat

beside me. He always spends the pleasant moonlight evenings here, for he

has no companions of the present, and the sight of the old walls kept

sluggish memory awake to the recollections of the light and love of

other days. "I am alone in the world," he said, "poor and friendless;

none for me to care for, and none to care for me. Father, mother,

brothers, sisters, wife, and children have all passed away, and the busy

world has forgotten _me_. I have been for almost eighty years a toiler

for bread for myself and loved ones, yet I have never lacked for

comforts. I can say with David, 'Once I was young, but now I am old, yet

I have never seen the righteous forsaken or his seed begging bread.' I

began to feel my strength giving way last spring, and looked fearfully

toward the poor-house, when I heard that the old man who lived here, to

show visitors about, was dead, and so I came down to take his place and

die also." He brushed away a tear with his hard and shriveled hand, and,

with a more cheerful tone, talked of his future prospects. How true it

is that blessed

"Hope springs immortal in the human breast,"

for this poor, friendless, aged man had bright visions of a better

earthly condition even in the midst of his poverty and loneliness. He

took me to an opening in the broken wall, which fronted a small room

near the spot where the provincials entered, and with a low voice, as if

afraid some rival might hear his business plans, explained how he

intended, another year, to clear away the rubbish, cover the room over

with boards and brush, arrange a sleeping-place in the rear, erect a

rude counter in front, and there, during the summer, sell cakes, beer

and fruit to visitors. Here I saw my fancied hotel in embryo. He

estimated the cash capital necessary for the enterprise at eight

dollars, which sum he hoped to save from his season's earnings, for the

French woman who gave him food and shelter charged him but a trifling

weekly sum for his comforts. He calculated upon large profits and

extensive sales, and hoped, if no opposition marred his plans, to make

enough to keep him comfortable through

* Burgoyne's Narrative, Appendix, p. xxx.

Trip to Mount Defiance.--Ascent of the Mountain.--An English Major and

Provincial Subaltern.

130life. He entertained me more than an hour with a relation of his own

and his father's adventures, * and it was late in the evening when I

bade him a final adieu. "God bless you, my son," he said, as he grasped

my hand at parting. "We may never meet here again, but I hope we may in

heaven!"

August 2, 1848 Early the next morning I started for Mount Defiance in

company with an English gentleman, a resident of Boston. We rode to the

"lower village," or Ticonderoga, where we left our ladies to return by

the same stage, while we climbed the rugged heights. We hired a horse

and vehicle, and a lad to drive, who professed to know all about the

route to the foot of the mountain. We soon found that he was bewildered;

and, unwilling to waste time by losing the way, we employed an aged

resident near the western slope to pilot us to the top of the eminence.

He was exceedingly garrulous, and boasted, with much self-gratulation,

of having assisted in dragging a heavy six pounder up to the top of the

mountain, five years ago, for the purpose of celebrating the "glorious

Fourth" on the very spot where Burgoyne planted his cannon sixty-six

years before. We followed him along a devious cattle-path that skirted a

deep ravine, until we came to a spring that bubbled up from beneath a

huge shelving rock whose face was smooth and mossy. The trickling of the

water through the crevices within, by which the fountain below was

supplied, could be distinctly heard. From a cup of maple-leaves we took

a cool draught, rested a moment, and then pursued our toilsome journey.